RUST can KILL your MOTORHOME - Easy to Apply Rust Protection : Lanoguard
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- Опубліковано 12 сер 2023
- I've been wanting to clean and protect the motorhome chassis for years and after some research I managed to find a product which does EXACTLY what I want - Lanoguard. It's made in Britain; is natural; non toxic; safe for the environment and easy to apply.
Lanoguard 6 months later
• Lanoguard - 6 Months L...
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That was very interesting and informative. Definitely something to consider in the future. Many thanks Ads.
Thanks @kampervonmega 👍👍
You have done a great job on your motorhome
Thanks @TheQuadman200 👍👍
Awesome video, thank you
Thanks @hornetboy3694 👍👍
Ive used Bilt Hamber Dynax-UB on my 22 year old fiat Ducato based- Autotrail. Cleaned up the rust first and applied their Hydrate-80 rust stabiliser. Then gave everyhing two coats of Dynax-UB. Seems to be doing the business so far. Incidentally, I emailed them about applying it to wood and they assured me that it would provide protection to wood too.
Thanks @tommo9757, the Lanoguard will protect wood but can trap the moisture that's already in the wood so it could end up rotting from the inside out. This is probably the same with the Dynax and other similar products
Thank you for sharing, very useful tips.
Glad it was helpful, @partasuhari 👍👍
Wow! What an interesting product👍👍
Gald you think so @JohnnyBurr. Thanks 👍👍
Fantastic video, thank you so much for sharing your Lanoguard treatment, we really do appreciate it 🙂
My pleasure, @Lanoguard 👍👍
Thank you very much for the video. I was wandering for the last few weeks what to use ,and you provide the answer .Thank you again!
Glad it was helpful, @firebladedog 👍👍
Looks like a job I should be doing, great video.
Go for it, @HubbynHerMotorhomeMoment-ir4dk 👍👍
It's great stuff used on my landrover great vid donny
Thanks @donnysweekendvanlifetravel7854 👍👍
I spent just over a week under Nessa de rusting her. I have a Compressor so I added a Needle Scaler to my tool collection as I need to get rid of rust in places where the angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment would get close to reaching. I used the Needle Scaler the most as it did such a good job. I used rust convertor an all areas that I had removed rust and paint. I then paint the areas I had treated. Some were completely painted as she was that bad in some places. Like Herman she has the complete chassis from the Original Van used. Being Sprinter based rust is well known with the Mk1 Sprinter. I will be looking at Lanoguard As I was looking at using Upols Raptor, but the idea of having to mask up some much of the underside, fills me with can't be botheredness, It was bad enough getting rust everywhere. I think the last of it ha finally left my ears. My Eldest Daughter took a picture of me after a short while under Nessa with visible clean spots where my safety specs had been and dust mask.
Also Like Herman my passenger footwell is full of holes, to the point Hermans is not to bad compared to Nessa. I remove some of the old welded seams as they were completely gone. tidied it up as best as I could as it is no structural at all. I did have to have some welding done on the chassis. I will be looking at the original cab floor at some point as that has rotted on a weld seam and has been like that since I have owned her, I just didn't see how bad it was as upto recently I had not been under her.
Next Job is find the oil leak on the engine that lost just over a litre of oil whilst on holiday, Putting us in Limp Mode not long after leaving a campsite near Stirling on our way back to Norfolk. Limp Mode sucks as it takes away the Auto part of the gearbox and the Turbo so hills are a real drag. Once topped up she was off again.
I have been looking forward to this video since you first announced it, knowing I had the same to do. I think Nessa has spent time near the sea with the amount of rust that she had, and she is five years younger than Herman, but had a lot more rust.
Thanks for heads up, @DiggerBuckett. We'll probably see you at the end of the month 👍
Right - love this. I have been wondering whether to use this. I think I can now attempt this as I was worried about what to treat and what not to. It’s also encouraged me to get underneath and inspect! Love it.
Fantastic, @markquinn9655 👍👍. Let us know how you get on. Don't forget, the links are in the video description
Awesome..we have brought some lanaguard .. putting it on soon as ..cheers Chris & Sammy
That's great, Chris and Sammy 👍👍
I got some Lanoguard and put it under mine, you did a much more thorough job than me, I will be redoing again at some point, it does seem to make a difference.
All the best, David 👍
Yes, does David. Thanks 👍👍
Nice job Ads I’ve used it on both my cars it’s a quality product and does what it says on the tin
Good to know, @ianwhite725. Thanks 👍👍
Fantastic well made video thanks , I’ve used lanoguard also 2 years ago and am very happy with the product I’ll be ordering some more for this winter, only issue for me was that the trigger guns were poor no mater what I did but has I have a small compressor was able to get around this small fault
That's great, @drexelspivey6472. Thanks 👍👍
I used a product called wax oil years ago on my caravan chassis , worked well .
I've used waxoyl too many times, @johnsmart4084. It just ages to paint on
Great video. Very detailed and instructive, Our last van was 17 years old and had an Alko chassis which never appeared to need any attention corrosion wise.. However, after about 3 years I applied ACF50 spray to the Fiat Ducato cab area and it protected the underside of the van perfectly. So it's a thumbs up for that product for me,
Thanks @robertpenning3501 👍👍. I've used ACF50 on my car. It's a tad expensive mind and dirt sticks to it, I found.
@HermanHitstheRoad you are right, it does leave a greasy film and can attract dirt.
I don’t have a motorhome, and I don’t need rust proofing. But I really enjoyed that video!
Thanks @duckbeneathpigeons 👍👍. That means a lot
Quite a job but probably rather satisfying when you see the progress and end result. I was thinking that a small handheld sand/soda blaster would be a great tool for getting the spot rust out.
Yes, it was very satisfying, @ari.voutilainen. You could probably use a sand blaster. It could speed things up 👍
Good shout Abs. I've been looking at Lanoguard for a wee while now, I drive a Range Rover and their ads keep popping up suggesting its ideal for protecting off-road vehicles. I also have a brand new caravan arriving in a couple of weeks and thought, what better time to protect the underside than when it's brand new. You have persuaded me to give it a try. 👍
Good choice, @TicketyBoo. Thanks 👍👍
Thanks for another good video . Treated my 18 year old motorhome last month and was impressed with the product, it also gives you the opportunity to inspect the underneath more closely, to which I found a corroding fuel tank and now replaced it .
I had used waxoyl before but this is easier to use.
I've used Waxoyl before in aerosol and paint form,. This is much better @colinrowland827
Just wondering did you have to take the waxoyl off before applying the Lanoguard?
Hi .I used the waxoyl on another vehicle.
I spoke to lanoguard and they said that so long as the surface your spraying on is sound like underseal etc the lanogaurd will adhere
Hello from Lolland Denmark xpost Bjarne thanks for workshop video 😮🇬🇧🇩🇰👓🧤📿😷
Thanks for commenting, @bjarnepost5913. I hope you enjoyed the video?
I have bought this for our 2003 Autosleeper Symbol
Nice one, @mk1photography61. I hope you have nice weather to do it 👍👍
Greetings from Ireland! Thanks so much for sharing. Excellent info. Was looking at the same product for my Hymer. Wonder does it need to be done every year? Thanks again. 👍☘️
Yes, it does, @GeoffAnthonyClinics but it's so easy to apply and I don't expect I'd need to clean and prepare the next time.
Thanks for the video. Need to hide it from my wife now as she will buy the gear and put me to work.
Hahaha well you know what will happen if you don't do it, @gordongilchrist1480? Your motorhome will rust! Do it asap for peace of mind 👍👍
I tend to use por 15 which cures using the moisture in the rust, I did a whole beetle chassis in it and it’s still a shiner black with no new rust.
That's great, @jimstelfox6120. Thanks for letting us know 👍👍.
I restored a Beetle once, decades ago but used Waxoyl.
Great insight into what is required (and a little more than I expected tbh) but will be a whole lot easier for me if I do it as soon as we pick up the new motorhome and would seem to be a good investment. Looks like the effort spent on Herman was well spent, especially picking up those little repairs early.Look forward to updates in due course.
Thanks @GedandMichele 👍👍. When are you picking up the new motorhome, Ged?
1st September Ads. Having waited 23 months thought it worth waiting a couple more weeks to get a nice new plate plus they need to bit an awning, solar panels, BBQ point and sort the Gaslow. I then need to get alarm and tow bar fitted elsewhere. Will be brassic after all that even with an extra 2 years of saving! @@HermanHitstheRoad
Fantastic news, Ged 👍👍
To maintain Hymer warranty from new it will need underbody spray at annual service. In 2014/15 thus was an extra £95 for the spray alone so must be more expensive these days.
Just something to be aware of
Thanks for pointing that out @03Timm. Mine is a Rapido but will check the conditions.
We have just bought a kit for a 22 plate ducato so will let you know
Sounds great, @sccobyste. Yeah, let me know 👍👍
I used hammerite black seems to be working OK so far
Thanks for commenting, @rogerburn21
Been lanoguarding my Landrover for a few years now. Very good stuff but it does need reapplying in some areas a bit more regularly than others - arches for example
Great tip. Thanks @s1mon1983 👍👍
@HermanHitstheRoad also if you struggle to see where you've done you can heat up some boot polish and pour in to colour it black
Been using Dinitrol for years, never had a problem, alot of car manufacturers use it. It creeps into all to all your hairline cracks. Also available in aerosol cans not just for compressor sprays. What ever you use for chassis treatment you should give it a good clean regardless. Lanoguard is good especially on chassis that are fairly new but I wouldn't use it on an old chassis personally. Would want something that helps stablize the rust. Lonagaurd is just a barrier like waxoyle.
Thanks @seanwade8446
Hi. Lanolin was used by many motor manufacturers in years ago such as minis and Morris minor before being painted. Cars we stored outside before painting. I personally use waxoil which is available clear, black or white. I tend to use tetrosol black with waxoil in it on underneath as you can see what's been done and mot guys know and looks like it's well looked after. I also use stone guard as well. Clear waxoil on inside doors as if on aintwork it doesn't matter. Just done my Bongo. Viz on my channel. George
Thanks @MakeDoAndMend1 👍👍. Sounds great
Lanoguard looks nice in the advert. However the vehicle underbody that it is applied too is spotless clean and has been prepared in a blackened paint or such. This makes the underbody look very impressive when applied, because it looks shiny shiny. Lanoguard is also required to be an annual application. Impressive maybe not.
It's not been painted with black paint, @tstuart7333 the rusty parts go that way. You only have to watch my video to see that. Yes, it does look very impressive. It's shiny because it's probably still wet. Yes, you should apply it annually (like other products) but it's easy and quick to apply.
Good old vactan to treat & red oxide to protect
Sounds like a lot of hard work, @VanlifeHQ
@@HermanHitstheRoad it’s not that bad really mate
Also depends on if you want to keep your van for years it’s the correct way & is used this way on boats,
Unfortunately the bare metal still needs painting & the wax can be easily breached leaving bare metal
The vactan & Red oxide both eat into the metal opposed to just sitting on the surface
Any protection is better then none we need to keep the older vehicles on the road before they all vanish by the hand of the government....
So what's the best course of action for the wooden floors?
Good question, @MildKustom. I asked Lanoguard and they said to use either a specific wooden floor protectant or using the Lanoguard Outdoor due to its antifungal properties. Thanks for your question 👍👍
Hi Ads. Our Elddis 155 motorhome that we call Mr Leaky is a 19reg. 4 years old. It passed its MOT no problem but believe it or not it got an advisory about rusty tank brackets underneath! Not the diesel tank we are talking about. It's the water tank and waste water tank. Yes, an advisory for the MOT. I had a look and what a rusty crusty paint peeling off mess these brackets are. It's really disgusting that Elddis use such rubbish. The brackets for the drain taps (replaced last year whilst still under warranty) were also a mess and also the bracket holding the flue for the water heater, the brackets for the travel seats (removed) and the brackets all holding the rear end lights corner and number plate panel. All rusty as hell. Since then I scraped the rust off best I could and used black Hammerite on everything (including knocking the tin over on our tarmac drive) A motorhome this young should not be having money spent replacing or protecting rusty parts. If you want my advice, keep Herman. But if you must get something newer - DON'T BUY AN ELDDIS!!!!!!! You have been warned. P.S. and most them get damp issues as well.
That's very sad to hear about your motorhome, @derektaylor6713. What about the rest of the body work, is it OK? Maybe you should consider some rust protection before it's too late?
@@HermanHitstheRoad The body is okay. The back axle has blobs of rust appearing and could do with sorting. The problem I have is I'm nearly 72 and crawling about under a motorhome messing about with rust that shouldn't be there isn't my idea of fun. We bought it nearly new - £42,000. Now a 19 reg is selling for £50,000 plus. A brand new one ( if you're willing to waits for 18 months ) is about £72,000! Helen and I crawled under at weekend and struggled to remove the very heavy spare wheel which is held in place with a wind down mechanism. Really tricky job. The reason being was, it too was going rusty. I took it in the shed and gave it the Hammerite treatment and then silver spray paint. It will now live under the bed because we have freed up a lot of space by removing both travel seats (25kilos each) which were residing under the side seats in the lounge (really rusty brackets holding these in place) We have galvanised catches and hinges and the like on our garden side gate which have been outside since 2018 and are still showing no rust so why can't these brackets be galvanised under Mr Leaky? It's a disgrace. We heard of one like ours that lost both gas bottles from the floor of the gas locker because the floor had rotted out. Ours seems okay as I've checked it. Then we have ad blue for the engine. This is bad news. It only lasts a couple of years before it starts to chrystalise and go off. The ad blue tank holds about 12 litres and is good for about 5,000 miles. But if you don't do many miles it could sit there going stale. At least 2 motorhomes we've heard of have needed new ad blue tanks. One paid £2,600 and another £3,000! From about 2017 diesel engines need ad blue to make them run cleaner. There's also umpteen sensors as well that can go wrong. As I write, Helen is on a Facebook group reading horror story after horror story about new or fairly new Elddis motorhomes. It's a nightmare. And then we have constant damp issues. It get's repaired and fails again the year after with damp in another place. I greatly admired you for tackling all that rust under Herman but please, as I've said before, keep hold of Herman as long as you can and don't waste your money on a newer one. Please take this on board. I have an inkling that Swift are a lot better but who knows. Cheers.
Thanjs for the advice, Derek. I suggest you both stop reading about the horror stories and get out in Mr Leaky more
@@HermanHitstheRoad Yes, you are perfectly right. We'll take your advice, thanks.
Interesting as most motorhomes in our price range have rust listed on mot. Wondering if once it has issues is that a run away moment when buying?!
If any vehicle is rusty like that in the thumbnail then walk away, @RollingwithTheRobsons
Hammerstein wax oil is the best for jobs like this old school product
I've used Waxoyl before in aerosol and paint form. Lanoguard is much better and quicker to use, @62nidge
Hammerstein I meant
Did it cure any suspension squeaks and groans …?
We don't have any squeaks at the moment, @mikecusac3406
Hi Ad, can I ask you a question please. Have you ever looked into needing or getting an exhaust? If so do you have any advice on where to purchase a Hymer 2004 b544 2.8 jtd from. Ours has just failed it mot today 😢. I do watch all your videos but don’t recall seeing one cheers Sue.
Hi Sue, I fitted Herman's a couple of years ago. No video. I bought it from Coastal Motorhomes
Thanks for that managed to get a custom one fitted stainless steel,result sorted for a few years now 👍
Good job well done. Should have been wearing a proper face mask though.
Why do you say that, @billy.b652? It isn't poisonous or dangerous to people or the environment unlike most other products (e.g. Dinitrol). However, I did wear goggles when spraying and I used breathing mask when applying the rust converter.
Surely you can find a specialist garage that would apply rust protection on your chassis. Why go through all the hassle of doing it yourself?
Thanks for commenting, @JA-sb4go 👍👍. Here are my reasons:
1. I enjoy working on our motorhome.
2. The cost
3. Because I can
4. I know it's been done right
5. I get a sense of achievement
6. I see what need to be worked on before the MOT inspector
The sheep smell will disappear after a month or so.
It's already gone, @hunter9372
Dynax up loads better
Thanks for commenting, @stevedavey82.
Complete waste of time, you can’t fix a structurally rust damaged chassis with wax. When are Al-Ko going to build the entire chassis for the Motor Home industry not just the rear end, I’ve yet to see an Al-Ko caravan chassis with any structural rust, even when the whole of the bodywork has collapsed.
Lanoguard doesn't fix anything, @aliterogasolini6401. it stops rust from forming or getting worse by not allowing the air get to it.
@@HermanHitstheRoad🤔😆😏