For those exploring trying to fix/maintenance this type of CVT system he shows you in 9minutes what will take you at the least 1year of figuring out yourself.
Wonderfully helpful. I never knew there was a bearing in the middle there... Makes perfect sense why mine crunches badly when going into gear if the belt is dragging... Will get this done now before our season start out here in Dubai!! Thanks for saving me a lot of time
Just get clutches from mother clutcher! Harvey absolutely knowes what he's doing, his clutches are well priced, work perfectly and last long! And in adiition he has a goot customer service!
@@jasonbaker4842 Try this link. www.ebay.com/itm/294611102443?hash=item449830aaeb:g:mFMAAOSwCrhf9Vmb - I did see just a bearing on eBay for $40 but you'd need someone with the correct tools to replace it.
Would appreciate any suggestions. 2012 Polaris 800 Razor EFI hesitates at 45-50 mph. 45 is about 6350rpm. Not really a sputter or cough. Repairman just cleaned throttle body and fuel injectors and said idle air circuit was partially open causing a misfire at that speed. None of the work performed solved the issue. One person suggested the primary and secondary cluthes might be fighting each other. Need to get it fixed pretty quick so we can sell it and move, but I want it to be right. I should also mention that it has full power no issues 0-45. No codes, no engine light. Always at that speed only.Thanks. Appreciate anything.
Good tip about the bearing Mine started acting like you described after burned the belt in some thick mud It had a flat spot I wonder if someone had the inner clutch cover replaced I had to replace mine after the driveshaft broke Also destroy the primary clutch Sdi makes a great clutch alignment tool hunter belts doesn’t work on the 2016 rzr turbo & 2019 Rs1 His clutch puller bent after first use and he wouldn’t replace it He told me it should be OK to reuse 😂 Belt + puller $195 down the drain He says his belts are the best which is a lie to sell belts Went back to oem belt
Great video! Would appreciate any suggestions. 2012 Polaris 800 Razor EFI hesitates at 45-50 mph. 45 is about 6350rpm. Not really a sputter or cough. Repairman just cleaned throttle body and fuel injectors and said idle air circuit was partially open causing a misfire at that speed. None of the work performed solved the issue. One person suggested the primary and secondary cluthes might be fighting each other. Need to get it fixed pretty quick so we can sell it and move, but I want it to be right. I should also mention that it has full power no issues 0-45. No codes, no engine light. Always at that speed only.Thanks. Appreciate anything.
You are 100 percent hitting your rev limiter. The weights in your primary clutch are too light. The rzr 800 should hit 60 mph and the rev limiter is 6300-6400 rpm. If you’re at 45 mph at 6350 rpm and the unit is no longer accelerating that is the only issue it can be. Mine did the exact same thing. Get a new primary with the right weights or get the weights replaced. The idle air circuit has nothing to do with max rpm. The mass air flow sensor will but you’d have issues all through the rpm range if it was bad. Good luck!
@@SignMeUpDesigns Thank You for your response. I have some new information on the 2012 Polaris 800 Razor having issues at 45mph. I was asked if it could go faster than 45mph. Just took it for another test. As usual it hesitates at 45mph. I pushed it on a longer stretch and when it gets to 50mph it stops hesitating. When I get to 55mph it hesitates again. Top speed is 60 mph at a maximum of 6500 rpm. To obtain codes, one video suggested turning the key off and on 3 times and it will show a code. Didn’t see anything pop up when I tried it. I don’t know if this 800 has the ability to display any codes? I’d like to include some responses from folks kind enough to offer suggestions to see if it triggers any other ideas pointing to one thing. The spark plugs were replaced about 1.5 years ago. They were examined recently and found to be good. I still might replace them as that’s a cheaper item. I suppose it could be a bad spark plug wire.. or coil wire. Your thoughts? Suggestions: fuel pressure check, sounds like fuel pump, spray water on spark plug wires and coil wire, Fuel stabilizer, Belt might be slipping, inspect clutches and belts, don’t think its clutch related, sounds like clutches sticking, check belt for damage, weights in primary clutch are too light, was IAC mechanically stuck open or electrically being opened. Thanks again. I’m hoping this new information might directly point to something that I will try and tackle on my own. Taking it in is a last resort for me. I promise, to get back to you once I find the issue! Thank you kindly. Very much appreciated. Dave
@@davepo6443It’s really tough to take an educated guess without hearing or seeing the machine in action. I do have a question for you. When you’re accelerating are you wide open throttle or are you feathering the throttle to get to 45? To eliminate the primary weights, from a stop press the accelerator all the way to the floor if the machine starts to hesitate as it accelerates there could still be a weight issue. If it does not hesitate at all until 45 then there is a different issue. I’ve seen fuel pumps go bad on these machines. Which may be what’s happening with yours. The fuel demand is greater at higher rpm’s and a weak pump will cause the conditions you mentioned.
@@SignMeUpDesigns You had it 100%! I finally have the answers on the 2012 800 Razor issues. Thank you for your response! Summary for 2012 Razor 800: • Fuel pressure was a consistent 44PSI which is in spec. Previously verified during last repairs. • Spark Plugs were checked during previous repairs and color was a light brown (NGK BKR7E) Plugs replaced in previous repairs Jan. 2023 • TPS set at .730 per factory spec. using TPS TOOL brand meter (specified range is .720-.740 TPS voltage setting controls idle and start up. • Overall TPS voltage affects WOT, but that would be bad TPS unit. • IAC solenoid was partially open because of excessive dirt build up in throttle body. • Injectors were checked and cleaned because fuel goes bad much faster in the summer heat of the desert. • Mass Air Flow sensor was cleaned with MAF sensor cleaner because of dirt and oil build up • UNI brand Air Filter cleaned and treated and intake tract cleaned Diagnosis: • During diagnosis test drive the operators RPM’s were watched closely. • During wide open throttle pass on pavement, engine was at 6400 rpm at 45mph. • 6400rpm is on the rev limiter and that’s the surging feeling. Had to feather the throttle lightly to work towards 50mph and hit 6400 rpm again. Definitely Clutch related (clutches were not serviced in Jan of 2023, only on new belt). CLUTCH INSPECTION ON MACHINE: Secondary clutch was difficult to open for belt removal. Primary Clutch: Needed partial rebuild • Installed new OEM sliders • Rollers in the spider were good • Installed new OEM 2- way bearing • Installed new OEM 23-62 weights (removed 23-58 weights) • Installed new OEM shoulder bolts for the weights Secondary Clutch: Tear Down • Internal Rollers in excellent shape • Excessive dirt and debris in bushing area of moveable sheave resulted in hard to open during belt change, also translates to poor operating results • Replaced Belt Drive • After Clutch servicing engine holds at 6150 rpm during wide open. Wide open throttle RPM/MPH test No issue getting to 55mph, did not try for higher MPH as clutches now hold correct RPM
I purchased a no named sideXside a few years ago, I was told they were built with leftover parts from several brands. It grinds really bad when you try to put it in high, low or reverse. We have to put it in gear and then start it. Would this be a possible problem I am having?
Back agin lol that is my problem You’re a genius something strange the clutch that I have says Polaris but it’s for a 2014 I’m guessing 2010 down to 2008 has a bearing.
I have a 2012 rzr 800 when I turn it on only the primary clutch spins and also I can’t even move it jerks like crazy like if I had E-brake or something? Bough this thing 4 months and I been working on it ?
I hate to say it but it sounds like your transmission is binding somewhere. It could be a broken input shaft from the secondary clutch. Tough to say without pulling the secondary off.
my rzr xp 1000 jerks whenever i take it off park sounds like it’s grinding and completely shuts off. the gear gets stuck for a couple minutes and then i’m able to put it back in park while it’s off. not sure what to do don’t want to take it to a shop if i can fix it myself. please help brotha🙏
I honestly wish I could tell you. I took it on a couple of rides and sold the machine. Still working like a champ when I sold it though. Maybe someone else can share their experience?
2008 is the year. The clutch I purchased on Amazon was advertised to fit a 2010-2014. The Amazon seller is Bestauto and I think the Vevor part number is B083CV74Z9.
It’s got to be an alignment issue if it’s flipping inside out and shredding. Sounds like the clutch wasn’t installed fully on the shaft. Tough to say for sure without looking at it.
Try this link. www.ebay.com/itm/284994808081?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_7_TX8jrR02&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=TbwNDVUlRQi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I assume your question is “is my bearing bad?” With what you’ve described it sounds like your bearing is locked up or non existent like mine. Time for a new bearing or primary clutch.
@@SignMeUpDesigns I got my razor for 1000$ also I’m hopeing he has not destroyed the transmission, trying to make it go in the high gear I don’t under stand why it’s doing it in hi gear but not the rest it try’s to pull also
In high gear the transmission is spinning faster so it’s harder to match the engine speed to trans speed when you shift. Since the bearing is locked, that’s the only way to get the trans in gear by matching engine speed to trans speed. Low gear spins slower so it’s easier to match speeds. Take your cvt belt off and shift again. If it grinds, your trans may be hurt. If it shifts smooth you should be fine with a new clutch/bearing. 🤙🏻
I got lucky with mine. I hit it with a big hammer and pulled at the same time. I was able to get it free. If that doesn’t work for you I would buy a clutch puller for a sportsman 400. I really think that’s what my original clutch was meant for.
My primary is making a loud noise on my 2017 Polaris RZR 1000 S. What would you recommend to get rid of the noise? Any help/advise would be great. Thanks so much.
It’s really tough to say without hearing it. It could be something in the primary itself, the bearing or even a bad belt. If it’s a squealing sounds it’s likely a stuck bearing causing the belt to squeal. If it’s a rattle then possibly something loose. Either way I’d get it checked by someone who knows more about it before something even worse happens. Good luck!
Try this listing. It seems like the clutches pictured with a washer are also the ones with the 2 way bearing. It’s also the same brand “Vevor” that I used. www.ebay.com/itm/Primary-Drive-Clutch-For-2010-2014-Polaris-Ranger-RZR-800-RZR-4-EFI-LE-1322996-/274071014640?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Good question. I got extremely lucky and it fell right off after tapping it a few times with a rubber mallet. If that doesn’t work I would suggest getting a puller for a Polaris sportsman 400. I highly suspect that’s what the Chinese clutch was designed around. Don’t be afraid to get aggressive, that Chinese clutch is garbage. Don’t try to salvage it.
The links usually expire after a while. Also, sometimes the sellers on eBay/Amazon change the listing up and change the product. All the info in the video should give you a decent idea of what clutch to get. 🤙🏻
Just a thought ,and I’m not hacking on you, your rzr 800 is a 2010 or later if the plastics is correct , this finder front clip was first used on 2010, 2008 and 2009 same ,but changed in 2010 model, when you don’t give correct info about your rzr it shakes our confidence, and I think people will not watch, I could be wrong,
Wow great eye! It is for sure a 2008, verified by the VIN. It was wrecked in the front end before I bought it and was replaced with a newer body front clip. If you look closer at the 2:00 mark, it has the sticker for electronic power steering which this unit does not have. No confidence to shake, this video is as legit as they come.
As far as build quality I don’t think it’s as good as oem. But it has stood up to abuse for a year now. My thinking is $600 for a new oem which will likely fail vs $125 for a Chinese one that will likely fail…I’d need 5 to break before I lost money. Highly unlikely in my opinion.
Good tip and it absolutely takes the guess work out of it. This video is for the ones like me who don’t necessarily want to (or can’t) shell out $800 or more for an oem clutch when an aftermarket one will work just as good. Maybe not as long, but for a season or 2, definitely.
For those exploring trying to fix/maintenance this type of CVT system he shows you in 9minutes what will take you at the least 1year of figuring out yourself.
💪🏼
Phenomenal Video.. spent 5 hours in forums trying to determine if that bearing should be moving! Thank you
Best UTV clutch video I've seen yet.... Direct, to the point and perfect visual explanations and examples. 👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
Wonderfully helpful. I never knew there was a bearing in the middle there... Makes perfect sense why mine crunches badly when going into gear if the belt is dragging... Will get this done now before our season start out here in Dubai!! Thanks for saving me a lot of time
I would love to rip my rzr in Dubai! Glad it helped and hope you have a great season. 🤙🏻
Best video I have seen explaining this I wish I have seen this sooner, I ran into the exact same issue, thanks so much!!!!
So if I can help anyone else out as you did in my case the knockoff clutch was a M18 x 2.50, threaded right in and clutch pop right off
Great informative and well researched video. Videos well done the content is concise. Good job oh and by the way, thank you you help me a lot.
Just get clutches from mother clutcher!
Harvey absolutely knowes what he's doing, his clutches are well priced, work perfectly and last long!
And in adiition he has a goot customer service!
This has solved all the issues I'm having on my 13 xp900. You sir are the man
Glad I could help! 🤙🏻
@@SignMeUpDesigns having trouble finding this same primary for my 13 xp900 however. Still on the hunt
@@jasonbaker4842 Try this link. www.ebay.com/itm/294611102443?hash=item449830aaeb:g:mFMAAOSwCrhf9Vmb - I did see just a bearing on eBay for $40 but you'd need someone with the correct tools to replace it.
Oh man...absolute legend.
Aside from the correct puller I shouldn't need anything else right?
Thank you! I felt this video was simple and straight to the point. I also liked the facts about the cheap eBay clutches! Great video!!
Thank you!
Would appreciate any suggestions. 2012 Polaris 800 Razor EFI hesitates at 45-50 mph. 45 is about 6350rpm. Not really a sputter or cough. Repairman just cleaned throttle body and fuel injectors and said idle air circuit was partially open causing a misfire at that speed. None of the work performed solved the issue. One person suggested the primary and secondary cluthes might be fighting each other. Need to get it fixed pretty quick so we can sell it and move, but I want it to be right. I should also mention that it has full power no issues 0-45. No codes, no engine light. Always at that speed only.Thanks. Appreciate anything.
Bought a used one and you my friend have fixed my issues
Nice job! I just got a rzr 800 4 and it has a slight grind- will definitely be working on it
Good tip about the bearing
Mine started acting like you described after burned the belt in some thick mud It had a flat spot
I wonder if someone had the inner clutch cover replaced I had to replace mine after the driveshaft broke
Also destroy the primary clutch
Sdi makes a great clutch alignment tool
hunter belts doesn’t work on the 2016 rzr turbo & 2019 Rs1
His clutch puller bent after first use and he wouldn’t replace it
He told me it should be OK to reuse 😂
Belt + puller $195 down the drain
He says his belts are the best which is a lie to sell belts
Went back to oem belt
Unfortunate you had that experience with them. I’ve never dealt with them personally. Hope the info helped you out.
Now that’s a great video. Excellent content. Won’t help me on my machine, but a great video.
Thanks for the nice words!
Great video!
Would appreciate any suggestions. 2012 Polaris 800 Razor EFI hesitates at 45-50 mph. 45 is about 6350rpm. Not really a sputter or cough. Repairman just cleaned throttle body and fuel injectors and said idle air circuit was partially open causing a misfire at that speed. None of the work performed solved the issue. One person suggested the primary and secondary cluthes might be fighting each other. Need to get it fixed pretty quick so we can sell it and move, but I want it to be right. I should also mention that it has full power no issues 0-45. No codes, no engine light. Always at that speed only.Thanks. Appreciate anything.
You are 100 percent hitting your rev limiter. The weights in your primary clutch are too light. The rzr 800 should hit 60 mph and the rev limiter is 6300-6400 rpm. If you’re at 45 mph at 6350 rpm and the unit is no longer accelerating that is the only issue it can be. Mine did the exact same thing. Get a new primary with the right weights or get the weights replaced. The idle air circuit has nothing to do with max rpm. The mass air flow sensor will but you’d have issues all through the rpm range if it was bad. Good luck!
@@SignMeUpDesigns Thank you. I'll let you know what I find out.
@@SignMeUpDesigns Thank You for your response. I have some new information on the 2012 Polaris 800 Razor having issues at 45mph.
I was asked if it could go faster than 45mph. Just took it for another test. As usual it hesitates at 45mph. I pushed it on a longer stretch and when it gets to 50mph it stops hesitating. When I get to 55mph it hesitates again. Top speed is 60 mph at a maximum of 6500 rpm.
To obtain codes, one video suggested turning the key off and on 3 times and it will show a code. Didn’t see anything pop up when I tried it. I don’t know if this 800 has the ability to display any codes?
I’d like to include some responses from folks kind enough to offer suggestions to see if it triggers any other ideas pointing to one thing.
The spark plugs were replaced about 1.5 years ago. They were examined recently and found to be good. I still might replace them as that’s a cheaper item. I suppose it could be a bad spark plug wire.. or coil wire. Your thoughts?
Suggestions: fuel pressure check, sounds like fuel pump, spray water on spark plug wires and coil wire, Fuel stabilizer, Belt might be slipping, inspect clutches and belts, don’t think its clutch related, sounds like clutches sticking, check belt for damage, weights in primary clutch are too light, was IAC mechanically stuck open or electrically being opened.
Thanks again. I’m hoping this new information might directly point to something that I will try and tackle on my own. Taking it in is a last resort for me.
I promise, to get back to you once I find the issue!
Thank you kindly. Very much appreciated.
Dave
@@davepo6443It’s really tough to take an educated guess without hearing or seeing the machine in action. I do have a question for you. When you’re accelerating are you wide open throttle or are you feathering the throttle to get to 45? To eliminate the primary weights, from a stop press the accelerator all the way to the floor if the machine starts to hesitate as it accelerates there could still be a weight issue. If it does not hesitate at all until 45 then there is a different issue. I’ve seen fuel pumps go bad on these machines. Which may be what’s happening with yours. The fuel demand is greater at higher rpm’s and a weak pump will cause the conditions you mentioned.
@@SignMeUpDesigns You had it 100%!
I finally have the answers on the 2012 800 Razor issues. Thank you for your response!
Summary for 2012 Razor 800:
• Fuel pressure was a consistent 44PSI which is in spec. Previously verified during last repairs.
• Spark Plugs were checked during previous repairs and color was a light brown
(NGK BKR7E) Plugs replaced in previous repairs Jan. 2023
• TPS set at .730 per factory spec. using TPS TOOL brand meter (specified range is .720-.740 TPS voltage setting controls idle and start up.
• Overall TPS voltage affects WOT, but that would be bad TPS unit.
• IAC solenoid was partially open because of excessive dirt build up in throttle body.
• Injectors were checked and cleaned because fuel goes bad much faster in the summer heat of the desert.
• Mass Air Flow sensor was cleaned with MAF sensor cleaner because of dirt and oil build up
• UNI brand Air Filter cleaned and treated and intake tract cleaned
Diagnosis:
• During diagnosis test drive the operators RPM’s were watched closely.
• During wide open throttle pass on pavement, engine was at 6400 rpm at 45mph.
• 6400rpm is on the rev limiter and that’s the surging feeling. Had to feather the throttle lightly to work towards 50mph and hit 6400 rpm again.
Definitely Clutch related (clutches were not serviced in Jan of 2023, only on new belt).
CLUTCH INSPECTION ON MACHINE:
Secondary clutch was difficult to open for belt removal.
Primary Clutch: Needed partial rebuild
• Installed new OEM sliders
• Rollers in the spider were good
• Installed new OEM 2- way bearing
• Installed new OEM 23-62 weights (removed 23-58 weights)
• Installed new OEM shoulder bolts for the weights
Secondary Clutch: Tear Down
• Internal Rollers in excellent shape
• Excessive dirt and debris in bushing area of moveable sheave resulted in hard to open during belt change, also translates to poor operating results
• Replaced Belt Drive
• After Clutch servicing engine holds at 6150 rpm during wide open. Wide open throttle RPM/MPH test
No issue getting to 55mph, did not try for higher MPH as clutches now hold correct RPM
Thanks I've been having that same problem on my RZR XP4 1000
I purchased a no named sideXside a few years ago, I was told they were built with leftover parts from several brands. It grinds really bad when you try to put it in high, low or
reverse. We have to put it in gear and then start it. Would this be a possible problem I am having?
It definitely could be. Sounds like the trans input is spinning while trying to put it in gear.
Dude your awesome, I hope u have a great day !
Thanks man! I hope you have a great day too!
Thanks for your vid I got a 2013 800 that's doing the same thing grinding when I put it in gear
Same here... Did you find a link to one on amazon or ebay?
Back agin lol that is my problem You’re a genius something strange the clutch that I have says Polaris but it’s for a 2014 I’m guessing 2010 down to 2008 has a bearing.
If it says Polaris it probably has a bearing. But that bearing is likely locked up. If you can’t turn it with your fingers it’s bad.
Much thanks for some great information.
Were do I locate the part # on the primary and secondary clutch on my polaris rzr 900s 2019 model help
Polaris OEM part numbers for your machine should be Primary: 1323283 Secondary: 1323408.
I have a 2012 rzr 800 when I turn it on only the primary clutch spins and also I can’t even move it jerks like crazy like if I had E-brake or something? Bough this thing 4 months and I been working on it ?
I hate to say it but it sounds like your transmission is binding somewhere. It could be a broken input shaft from the secondary clutch. Tough to say without pulling the secondary off.
my rzr xp 1000 jerks whenever i take it off park sounds like it’s grinding and completely shuts off. the gear gets stuck for a couple minutes and then i’m able to put it back in park while it’s off. not sure what to do don’t want to take it to a shop if i can fix it myself. please help brotha🙏
Sounds like it may be your primary clutch or bearing. There’s a chance it’s the transmission, but if it shifts fine without running it’s unlikely.
After 2 years , how the vevor clutch did?
I honestly wish I could tell you. I took it on a couple of rides and sold the machine. Still working like a champ when I sold it though. Maybe someone else can share their experience?
My 11 rzr 800s grinds while trying to shift gears at idle wonder if it’s my primary clutch. Also get a weird noise if i snap the throttle
Sounds like you could have a clutch, bearing or belt issue.
@@SignMeUpDesigns bearing going out on the primary or secondary clutch
Primary. Check it using the steps I showed in this video. 👍
Not sure if I missed it but what year is this rzr, and what is the Vevor part number?????
2008 is the year. The clutch I purchased on Amazon was advertised to fit a 2010-2014. The Amazon seller is Bestauto and I think the Vevor part number is B083CV74Z9.
My belt on my rzr 800 efi keeps turning inside out and tearing up.....what's wrong...I have brand new clutch and it keeps ripping up belts
It’s got to be an alignment issue if it’s flipping inside out and shredding. Sounds like the clutch wasn’t installed fully on the shaft. Tough to say for sure without looking at it.
@@SignMeUpDesigns thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I'll try removing one of the washers on the secondary clutch and see if that works.
Awesome video man, thanks for the info.
Hi there
I like to get the new clutches can’t access the link
Try this link.
www.ebay.com/itm/284994808081?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_7_TX8jrR02&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=TbwNDVUlRQi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
So I got a question mine is doing the same thing it only grinds going into high gear and it don’t want to go all the way my belt starts squealing
I assume your question is “is my bearing bad?” With what you’ve described it sounds like your bearing is locked up or non existent like mine. Time for a new bearing or primary clutch.
@@SignMeUpDesigns I got my razor for 1000$ also I’m hopeing he has not destroyed the transmission, trying to make it go in the high gear I don’t under stand why it’s doing it in hi gear but not the rest it try’s to pull also
In high gear the transmission is spinning faster so it’s harder to match the engine speed to trans speed when you shift. Since the bearing is locked, that’s the only way to get the trans in gear by matching engine speed to trans speed. Low gear spins slower so it’s easier to match speeds. Take your cvt belt off and shift again. If it grinds, your trans may be hurt. If it shifts smooth you should be fine with a new clutch/bearing. 🤙🏻
Are you interested in testing products? We would like to test a belt for RZR 800.
What tool did u use to get the wrong clutch off with cause the puller to big for the china's one
I got lucky with mine. I hit it with a big hammer and pulled at the same time. I was able to get it free. If that doesn’t work for you I would buy a clutch puller for a sportsman 400. I really think that’s what my original clutch was meant for.
Great informative video. Thanks
My primary is making a loud noise on my 2017 Polaris RZR 1000 S. What would you recommend to get rid of the noise? Any help/advise would be great. Thanks so much.
It’s really tough to say without hearing it. It could be something in the primary itself, the bearing or even a bad belt. If it’s a squealing sounds it’s likely a stuck bearing causing the belt to squeal. If it’s a rattle then possibly something loose. Either way I’d get it checked by someone who knows more about it before something even worse happens. Good luck!
Awesome video man
This video help so much!!!
I have a 2010 polaris rzr 800 having the same issue, what do I search to find that same clutch on eBay?
Try this listing. It seems like the clutches pictured with a washer are also the ones with the 2 way bearing. It’s also the same brand “Vevor” that I used.
www.ebay.com/itm/Primary-Drive-Clutch-For-2010-2014-Polaris-Ranger-RZR-800-RZR-4-EFI-LE-1322996-/274071014640?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
So I have question. Since the tool you showed didn't work, how did you get the Chinese clutch off?
Good question. I got extremely lucky and it fell right off after tapping it a few times with a rubber mallet. If that doesn’t work I would suggest getting a puller for a Polaris sportsman 400. I highly suspect that’s what the Chinese clutch was designed around. Don’t be afraid to get aggressive, that Chinese clutch is garbage. Don’t try to salvage it.
Thanks!
nice detailed video man
Thank you very much!
you should that link of the better clutch on here
The links usually expire after a while. Also, sometimes the sellers on eBay/Amazon change the listing up and change the product. All the info in the video should give you a decent idea of what clutch to get. 🤙🏻
How is that clutch working for you? I'm thinking of doing the same thing for my 2008.
It’s been installed for a few months and still working like a champ.
Just a thought ,and I’m not hacking on you, your rzr 800 is a 2010 or later if the plastics is correct , this finder front clip was first used on 2010, 2008 and 2009 same ,but changed in 2010 model, when you don’t give correct info about your rzr it shakes our confidence, and I think people will not watch, I could be wrong,
Wow great eye! It is for sure a 2008, verified by the VIN. It was wrecked in the front end before I bought it and was replaced with a newer body front clip. If you look closer at the 2:00 mark, it has the sticker for electronic power steering which this unit does not have. No confidence to shake, this video is as legit as they come.
Thank you this is great
Have you found that this vevor clutch is just as good as the oem?
As far as build quality I don’t think it’s as good as oem. But it has stood up to abuse for a year now. My thinking is $600 for a new oem which will likely fail vs $125 for a Chinese one that will likely fail…I’d need 5 to break before I lost money. Highly unlikely in my opinion.
@@SignMeUpDesigns does it have a one way bearing or two way bearing
The Vevor is a 2 way bearing.
Good to Video Bro.
Thank you. Good video
Thank you bro
Tip: always buy OEM Polaris parts. It takes all of the guess work out of it.
Good tip and it absolutely takes the guess work out of it. This video is for the ones like me who don’t necessarily want to (or can’t) shell out $800 or more for an oem clutch when an aftermarket one will work just as good. Maybe not as long, but for a season or 2, definitely.
Wrong, your so wrong, watch the video again.
Mister. Polaris primary is a piece of junk.
Dude! Clean that secondary! Omg!
Dude I did! Lol. Just not in this video. This video was about fixing a primary.
Thanks
Hello, are you interested in testing products? We'd like to invite you to test the belt of RZR 800.
Sure!
@@SignMeUpDesigns Could we send an email to you？Let you know more information.
Nice job.
Thank you! 🤙🏻
buy a Dalton clutch
By a dirty dawg clutch.
Great vid
What’s next can’t wait ! Become a YT god = Promo'SM.
Thanks man