You didn't show the tough part, which is connecting the last bolt on the second link after the first one is bolted in. For anyone doing this, using a pry bar to move the stabilizer bar and line up the last link bolt will help. But good vid. I just discovered your channel and like your work. I'm especially impressed with the video quality.
You should do a video about the rear control arms and trailing arms. The rear forward control arm is attached with that foot long bolt through the knuckle. I've managed to do the rear adjustable control arm but that bolt is seized in the knuckle and bushing of the forward arm. That's where I'm stuck.
Nice, now you can upgrade the factory dink horns with 2006 Camry horns (both high and low). They plug right into the factory connector. One of them is under the driver side headlight, so you pop that out and change it. Then slap a strut tower brace from a early 2000 Solara from the junkyard and you can beef up that handling a little bit. I have an annoying rattling sound from the rear and I think it's the sway bar links or the bushings. Did those extreme links make any difference in handling?
I will be installing these on my 2006 Toyota Sienna. I noticed you added grease. Do they not come pre greased? Also if the boots are always intact with no tears when does it become necessary to add grease? Also to renew grease can the ring holding the lip of the cover on the link be eased up a bit so old grease can be squeezed out and replaced with new? Would this be a good technique?
With the movement of the ball and socket, a little grease will come out of the grease seals over time. Not necessary but doesn't hurt to add a little grease after installing new links. No need to push out old grease to replace with new grease.
Great stuff as always… One quick question I'm gonna put a white line sway bar on my front end of my 99 Solara V6… Once I pull those bushings off that bar feed out fairly easy? Or is it one of those have to remove the whole front of the car to get it off type things ha ha ha… Thanks for feedback
nice video, personally ....... stay with oem parts. Yes they cost more however materials do make a difference and gambling with parts that do not meet, especially TOYOTA standards can be disappointing the time and money you save DIY trump the cost of OEM parts
Understand. But be aware that most auto parts are outsourced to third party companies. All you have to do if find the outsource manufacturers to get better than dealer prices: i.e. Aisin, Denso, GMB, NGK, KYB, Akebono, Bando, Mitsuboshi, etc.
Thank you very much sir. About to completely rebuild the front suspension on a 2000 Avalon and this is invaluable.
Glad you found it useful!
great work
Thank you! Cheers!
You didn't show the tough part, which is connecting the last bolt on the second link after the first one is bolted in. For anyone doing this, using a pry bar to move the stabilizer bar and line up the last link bolt will help.
But good vid. I just discovered your channel and like your work. I'm especially impressed with the video quality.
Thanks for your comments.
If you move the wheel the last link isn't to difficult to install.
You should do a video about the rear control arms and trailing arms. The rear forward control arm is attached with that foot long bolt through the knuckle. I've managed to do the rear adjustable control arm but that bolt is seized in the knuckle and bushing of the forward arm. That's where I'm stuck.
Never encountered rear end problems on Toyota's. Front end takes most of the stress.
Another approach to get to those rear bolts on the bracket is to put down the subframe a little bit. It's a have-to for some cars.
That's an good idea but you'd have to loosen all the bolts.
@@hardlymovingpro It was the only way to replace front stab bar bushing on the left side of my Acura MDX 2004 - it took one bolt only.
Nice, now you can upgrade the factory dink horns with 2006 Camry horns (both high and low). They plug right into the factory connector. One of them is under the driver side headlight, so you pop that out and change it. Then slap a strut tower brace from a early 2000 Solara from the junkyard and you can beef up that handling a little bit. I have an annoying rattling sound from the rear and I think it's the sway bar links or the bushings. Did those extreme links make any difference in handling?
Can't say if the handling improved a lot. Rear noise on Toyota's are usually from worn out bushings ... not worn links generally.
Why did you not use OEM bracket instead of cutting the after market one?
Because the new bushings were larger and should last longer.
Why not just reuse the old OEM bracket for the bushing? It was fine, right?
The new bushings where larger than the OEM.
I will be installing these on my 2006 Toyota Sienna. I noticed you added grease. Do they not come pre greased? Also if the boots are always intact with no tears when does it become necessary to add grease? Also to renew grease can the ring holding the lip of the cover on the link be eased up a bit so old grease can be squeezed out and replaced with new? Would this be a good technique?
With the movement of the ball and socket, a little grease will come out of the grease seals over time. Not necessary but doesn't hurt to add a little grease after installing new links. No need to push out old grease to replace with new grease.
They all come pre greased, but all greasable manufacturers recommend adding more grease.
I would have lubricated the inside of the bushing with silicone grease to prevent squeaking.
Wear out of the bushings causes squeaking. Grease will eventually wear off. But grease does help ease the installation on to the bar.
How did you install the grease fittings? I’m having trouble screwing them on since there is paint on the arm
You might have to use a tap tool to get off the paint.
How are the TTX links and bushings holding up? I just bought some for my Camry.
Can't say since I sold car. Quality is the best I've seen.
Two Thumbs Up.
Thanks!
noticeable improvement in handling on test drive?
Less body lean on turns.
Are those 10 mil bolts holding sway bar bushing down?
Yes and they're 12 mm
So, M10 x 1. 25 x what length? 12mm hex head bolts, correct? I've been having a bugger of a time finding just the bolts. @@hardlymovingpro
Great stuff as always… One quick question I'm gonna put a white line sway bar on my front end of my 99 Solara V6… Once I pull those bushings off that bar feed out fairly easy? Or is it one of those have to remove the whole front of the car to get it off type things ha ha ha… Thanks for feedback
thanks. Can't say if removing the bar will be a hassle.
I reused the old bushing clips
If it works, good for you!
Very helpful video. The front sway bar bushings are annoying (-____-)
Yes they are!
@@hardlymovingpro Do you mind sharing which 12mm tool brand/part you're using to get that nut to the right out? Everything I have is too thick.
I had to use a Craftsman box end wrench. It took a long time to slow,y back it out but, finally worked. @@jackvang87
nice video, personally ....... stay with oem parts. Yes they cost more however materials do make a difference and gambling with parts that do not meet, especially TOYOTA standards can be disappointing the time and money you save DIY trump the cost of OEM parts
Understand. But be aware that most auto parts are outsourced to third party companies. All you have to do if find the outsource manufacturers to get better than dealer prices: i.e. Aisin, Denso, GMB, NGK, KYB, Akebono, Bando, Mitsuboshi, etc.
Like last week when toyota sold me CV axles with ford and Subaru instalation instructions@@hardlymovingpro