Good to see the performance. Wondering along the lines of UHPC, if something fiber like basalt or rockwool fibers might aid in the strength? Now that I think about, I've wondered about using rockwool insulation with like a coating of silica glass to keep the surface bound together and provide a smoother more uniform reflective surface. Thanks for sharing!
That 'water glass' is kind of difficult to work with, I think. The 'rigidizer' I used for the riser tube on the rocket stove water heater, is now kind of expensive too. I happened to buy a bunch of these kind of things about 6 years ago. Everything was less expensive then, and easier to get.
Hi, i'm a potter, and i need a lot of ceramics brick for my kiln. The problem is the price of the brick. And i really appreciate your videos. And i was thinking if this brick could old the temperature of a ceramics kiln which is 1300° or 2372° fahrenheit. for quit a long firing (6h / 9h ) to reach 2372°. And if the brick is strong enough to stay in his righ form and avoid deformation. Thanks for sharing and if you can answer i would be really happy ! thank's !
The purpose of this, is to make a homemade high temp insulative board. It's not going to hold heat like a firebrick. You need a thermo mass to hold heat. People use homemade 'cob' as a mass to hold heat. It's a mix of sand and clay. You may want to check into that.
Coat them in refactory mortar. Esp the top surface as the bottom seems to have plenty of binder. ~ A cup of refactory cement to seal in the pearlite? Would still use less material
What kind of heat gun do you have Double M and why did you paint the backside black ??? I was thinking of using a viburator when making bricks to make sure the material will get rid of air pockets and make sure the arroget will be jigsaw puzzle together with way better results. That is what they do on construction sites. Thanks for sharing your results.
The IR thermometer is the same one I use for testing the wood burning units. I have noticed before that you get a more accurate reading off a darker surface. From what I learned, I want the thickest mixture as possible, (using the least amount of water), to get the strongest result. So my opinion would be to press the mix in the mold. Thanks for all your interest and comments!
Ames Instruments. It was about $60. Does what it's suppose to do. I can't find the book for it, but it seems like the object you want to measure, has to be over 1inch big. So it doesn't work on my 1/2" pipes very good.
For insulating the fire box; but I would use regular fire brick in the places that would contact the fire wood. (sides and bottom) In time, I always have broken fire brick to replace in my fireboxes, just from the wood banging and rubbing up against it.
A little late to the party, but your idea would work. The foam in aircrete creates very small air pockets which is what insulating fire brick is! As OP mentioned perlite is or could be easier for many. I personally want to use aircrete foam w/ castable refractory to make insulating bricks or panels. I'm finding creating the foam apparatus can be pricey and buying one is even more expensive. Absent the foam, super fine sawdust would work as well as it would burn out during a firing.
Acknowledging that I did not participate, or even assist/contribute to the tests, my observation is likely worth less than my investment. Nevertheless, I hope my comments will offer some value. The reflective material did not contribute much and appears to not be a valuable addition to your cast slabs. My experience working viscous materials like concrete taught me that unless traction is a desirable objective, working the surfaces as smooth as possible is ideal for wear. I suspect that the 20% mixture would be stronger if compressed and smoothed before curing. (Being ignorant of the investment, I have no idea if that is a consideration.) VERY INTERESTING - I would love to see an application usinf these!
What a fail- why even test it if your not gonna be consistent each time your testing? Like who knows what the results were.. maybe have enough gas to finish your test? ???
Good to see the performance. Wondering along the lines of UHPC, if something fiber like basalt or rockwool fibers might aid in the strength? Now that I think about, I've wondered about using rockwool insulation with like a coating of silica glass to keep the surface bound together and provide a smoother more uniform reflective surface. Thanks for sharing!
That 'water glass' is kind of difficult to work with, I think. The 'rigidizer' I used for the riser tube on the rocket stove water heater, is now kind of expensive too. I happened to buy a bunch of these kind of things about 6 years ago. Everything was less expensive then, and easier to get.
thanks for sharing your investigation!
Thanks for the interest!
I'll take it! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome!
gracias por compartir voy a investigar que materiales similares puedo encontrar aqui
Hi, i'm a potter, and i need a lot of ceramics brick for my kiln. The problem is the price of the brick. And i really appreciate your videos. And i was thinking if this brick could old the temperature of a ceramics kiln which is 1300° or 2372° fahrenheit. for quit a long firing (6h / 9h ) to reach 2372°. And if the brick is strong enough to stay in his righ form and avoid deformation. Thanks for sharing and if you can answer i would be really happy ! thank's !
The purpose of this, is to make a homemade high temp insulative board. It's not going to hold heat like a firebrick. You need a thermo mass to hold heat. People use homemade 'cob' as a mass to hold heat. It's a mix of sand and clay. You may want to check into that.
Coat them in refactory mortar. Esp the top surface as the bottom seems to have plenty of binder. ~ A cup of refactory cement to seal in the pearlite? Would still use less material
What kind of heat gun do you have Double M and why did you paint the backside black ??? I was thinking of using a viburator when making bricks to make sure the material will get rid of air pockets and make sure the arroget will be jigsaw puzzle together with way better results. That is what they do on construction sites. Thanks for sharing your results.
The IR thermometer is the same one I use for testing the wood burning units. I have noticed before that you get a more accurate reading off a darker surface.
From what I learned, I want the thickest mixture as possible, (using the least amount of water), to get the strongest result. So my opinion would be to press the mix in the mold. Thanks for all your interest and comments!
@@doubleMinnovations What brand name IR thermometer are you using and model Sri ??? What are the pluses and minuses Double M ??
Ames Instruments. It was about $60. Does what it's suppose to do. I can't find the book for it, but it seems like the object you want to measure, has to be over 1inch big. So it doesn't work on my 1/2" pipes very good.
@@doubleMinnovations Thanks, If you find the book please respond with information. . Good day too. Thanks for education.
I found the Owner's Manual online: "manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/64000-64999/64847.pdf"
Based on your experiments would you feel confident using these bricks in the firebox of an rmh?
For insulating the fire box; but I would use regular fire brick in the places that would contact the fire wood. (sides and bottom) In time, I always have broken fire brick to replace in my fireboxes, just from the wood banging and rubbing up against it.
Do you think this kind of brick would make a reliable roof for the firebox of a batchrocket? @@doubleMinnovations
Yes. I would probably make it 2" thick, and add a little wire reenforcing.
I appreciate you being so helpful. Keep up the great work. @@doubleMinnovations
I wonder if you could make aircrete with refractory cement and how that would work for a burn chamber?
It might be possible, but I think this is a lot easier for anyone to do, and perlite is not very expensive.
A little late to the party, but your idea would work. The foam in aircrete creates very small air pockets which is what insulating fire brick is! As OP mentioned perlite is or could be easier for many. I personally want to use aircrete foam w/ castable refractory to make insulating bricks or panels. I'm finding creating the foam apparatus can be pricey and buying one is even more expensive. Absent the foam, super fine sawdust would work as well as it would burn out during a firing.
I spoke too soon. I see you got the 100HT🙂
Acknowledging that I did not participate, or even assist/contribute to the tests, my observation is likely worth less than my investment. Nevertheless, I hope my comments will offer some value.
The reflective material did not contribute much and appears to not be a valuable addition to your cast slabs.
My experience working viscous materials like concrete taught me that unless traction is a desirable objective, working the surfaces as smooth as possible is ideal for wear.
I suspect that the 20% mixture would be stronger if compressed and smoothed before curing. (Being ignorant of the investment, I have no idea if that is a consideration.)
VERY INTERESTING - I would love to see an application usinf these!
What a fail- why even test it if your not gonna be consistent each time your testing? Like who knows what the results were.. maybe have enough gas to finish your test? ???