Hello Luke, I also have a Walker Superhot 6"J. The J is very self regulating, but burning pieces that are very thin can result in some excess coals and overfueling(flames shooting out of the riser and smoke). Placing wood in there that is too large can cool the fire a bit. It doesn't take very long to get a feel for what works best. And it's pretty easy and intuitive to add smaller pieces if a large piece is slowing down the fire. Great job on those cores! You are cutting and shipping them for cheaper than I can buy the sheets at my local refractory shop. Good luck with business!
(excuse my inglish) Thanks x this! I am building my bbr4. I thought that I did it wrong, but, watching here the tall barreal, the main needs to be that way, and the part of the little barrel, I made it with bricks. And... I have to start the fire veeeery more slowly. I learnd too mouch with you, guys, THANKS🔥👍!!! And SALUDOS from Argentina 🇦🇷
One comment on your glass recommendation. I don’t think you meant tempered glass. Rather than tempered glass for a window on these, , one wants ceramic stove glass. Common brands are neoceram and robax, among others... Plain old tempered glass would shatter at these temps, possibly explosively, and at a temperature where it could ignite any combustibles in the vicinity.
Very nice, I always wonder what is the difference between those two, now I understand. Thank you, Luck! Also, I am interested in the Batch Box also. Would be nice if you include the options of having the side cut out so can view fire from the side too :-) Looking forward to your new package! Nice work.
Very good video. Actually burning, good dog content, and easy to understand. I've been researching the heck out of these and your videos are very good.
Hi Luke. I just built a rocket stove water heater using your 6 inch j tube kit for the core. It went together very easily and burned well the first time. Thank you for making Cement fiber board much more accessible material for rocket cores, it works so well and is so much easier than fire brick or the other options for cores. I would be very interested in this batch box kit if you started offering them. My dad just built a metal shop building in central Oregon and we'd like to build a rocket mass heater for it. The batch box would be a much better option for that use, since he could get the fire started, load it up, and them get to work on his projects without having to feed the heater as often as he would with a J tube. Any chance you would be offering an 8 inch batch box core?
Jesse! I remember you from when you lived up in Montana at Paul's. My brother Jake came up and did some insulation with you at one point. When I shipped out your core I thought your name sounded familiar. Great to hear from you, and thanks for the feedback. Have you got any photos/video of the water heater you put together with the core I shipped you? I don't have many photos of my cores in action yet. An 8" batch is definitely a possibility. It will use more materials than a 6". I was working on the 6" batch for a while but still have some final details to work out. A main issue right now is figuring out what to line the batch box with. Matt's designs call for lining just with the ceramic fiber and I have questions about the long term durability with that approach. My preference would be a fire brick lining like the feed tube for the J. I'll shoot you an e-mail with some thoughts...
Very cool. I'm going to build one of these. I like the Batch box design, but I want to have a permanently installed clear ceramic window on the front of mine and don't want the hassle of trying to make it open as a door. So I'm thinking, why couldn't you just make a batch box design with a large insulated door lid on top and just drop the wood in from the door above then close it 100% sealed. I would make the air intakes the same as the batch box in this video. What do you think, any problems or issues modifying the Batch box design to have an insulated door on top and a non opening window on the front (with an air wash going over the glass)?
how do you fasten the ceramic fibre board so that it doesn't have gaps? The chimney could have straps that I don't see but how do you keep the board inside the core from falling in? Refractory cement?
Hey Luke, I've never built one of these but perhaps your J Tube should have an air inlet on the bottom front? Maybe that would help with the wood stack catching fire?
walkerstoves.com has the plans that these are based on. I sell the 6" at rocketstovecores.com and also have a few batch boxes that are more or less ready for shipment if you are interested
i also am super confused how youre using fibre board here. its designed as a backer behind firebrick or metal, never as the actual inner lining or structure.wont it just fall apart? chip up? also isnt it toxix when cut or disturbed? (Unless Superwool lining the riser only)
The J style seems way better to me, it’s not designed to be left burning…a short burn gets the cob up to temp then it’s left to got out. The box style is more contemporary so people aren’t as apprehensive about the sideways burn. Get stuff thanks.
Could you use a wood stove first and connect it to a rocket stove to use the gas from the stove without secondary burn ???? Maybe this would give more heat since two stoves are connected ???? Thanks
One of the reasons that rocket stoves are so efficient is that you're not extracting heat from the burn chamber. This allows the fire to reach temperatures that burn off creosote and carbon monoxide. Then the heat is extracted into the air and thermal mass after the burn stage.
@@victoryfirst2878 You could spend thousands of hours reading the Donkey and Permies forums and see all the creative things people have tried. Every "clever" thing I thought of has already been explored. Mostly it comes down to using verified core dimensions and using materials that can withstand crazy temps.
you could use a wood stove for the 'batch box' but it would need to be double walled on the inside with thick fire brick. not letting the heat escape from the walls. then into a chimney with fire brick. you would have to experiment.
Ceramic Fibre board is used as a backup most of the time to refractory installations I don't understand what u are trying to accomplish here are u using this to heat an area this is not something u use as a permanent thing I've been installing this stuff mainly for a backup to refractory or to make commercial flues for heat treating ovens after time from the heat they will breakdown and if u get them wet just say goodbye to it it will fall apart 2nd of all after time from being under heat it will breakdown becoming very toxic fibres from what u are using is cancer causing trust me I've been in the refractory installations business for almost 45 yrs this is not something u put in your house or garage just a warning the stuff u are using is Fibre board read the MSDS on this stuff dust particles from cutting this stuff is very hazardous make sure u wear respirator when cutting this stuff
Someone, seemingly very knowledgeable person, warns about the same thing in the permies in a long and very detailed discussion. How about dense mullite brick then?
The discussion on the Permies forum identifies surface treatments to mitigate these issues. In the UK the off the shelf solution is to apply Vitcas Zircon paint to the interior ceramic surfaces of the stove. This is used in commercial kilns. I don't pretend to know enough to say this is necessary but you can use it if you're worried.
i'm building a batch box design at this moment ...is the p channel unnecessary? i have a secondary air channel underneath the floor of the box. it feeds air into the bottom of the riser...do you think that is ok?
Primary air and secondary air are both necessary for optimal performance. In the batch box in the video I did not have a primary air port in the door but I should have (it was my first build). There were enough small gaps for extra air to come in... but if it had been well sealed it probably wouldn't have worked quite as well.
@@lukeshomestead8760 when you say primary and secondary air...are you talking about inlets both near the bottom of the door...and not the p channel at all...am i correct?
@@rwhirsch Primary air inlet is a hole, often near the bottom the door. Secondary air is for the p channel. For a more thorough discussion see Peter's site. He is one of the main developers of the batch box batchrocket.eu/en/building#dimension
if this is really tiny, does that mean it can be utilized on a sailing boat? we need a lightweight functional rocket mass water heater and stove/oven... all in one solution not larger than 20"x20"x30" height... with so much knowledge all around us, why hasnt anyone come up with a clean simple solution that works afloat? there are thousands of sailors waiting guys..... what are you waiting for?
Long sticks the stick out of the J tube will encourage the fire to work its way back up the feed tube like you can see in the video. You want the fire to stay in the burn chamber and not creep back up. If a long flaming stick were to break and fall out of the burn chamber it could start a fire where you don't want one.
The firewood we were using was too long. Normally you'd have a brick surround of some sort that elongates the height of the feed tube and allows for longer wood.
Thanks everyone for the comments. I put this up a couple months ago to show a few friends our latest projects and didn't realize it had gotten so many views and comments! Please note that the simple batch box door/plug we used (pictured around the 12:00 minute mark) didn't have a primary air inlet and it should have. I have been selling the 6" J for a while at rocketstovecores.com I hope to have the batch box available for sale in the very near future. For plans to build one yourself you can visit walkerstoves.com (Matt Walker's site)
Just make it sit over covering the opening, that is how real wood stove doors are anyway, with the seal on the back of the door, not on the edge. Even ovens on gas fired range tops have the oven door fit over top of the opening, not within the opening. Not that i am saying you can't do your ideal, but it will take a lot of work to make it work as good, or better than just have it cover the opening and put the seal on the back of the door. Technically on a house exterior door it seals on the back/front of the door also, near the edge, not the edges itself. Those pieces of wood nailed into the door jam that stops the door from shutting too far in, is where it seals, and that will be on the front of the door near the edge, because exterior doors open inward. So in essence it is the same thing, the door fits over the opening, not within it. It only appears it fits within to an unexperienced eye, those pieces of wood stopping it from closing too far, it how it sits over the final opening. In the end after it is all built the opening is smaller than the door.
Hello Luke, I also have a Walker Superhot 6"J. The J is very self regulating, but burning pieces that are very thin can result in some excess coals and overfueling(flames shooting out of the riser and smoke). Placing wood in there that is too large can cool the fire a bit. It doesn't take very long to get a feel for what works best. And it's pretty easy and intuitive to add smaller pieces if a large piece is slowing down the fire. Great job on those cores! You are cutting and shipping them for cheaper than I can buy the sheets at my local refractory shop. Good luck with business!
Thank you Sir Augustus Smoothy. Peace and good luck too. VF
Thanks Augustus for the feedback. Do you have your stove attached to a mass? Do you have any pictures of it?
(excuse my inglish) Thanks x this! I am building my bbr4. I thought that I did it wrong, but, watching here the tall barreal, the main needs to be that way, and the part of the little barrel, I made it with bricks. And... I have to start the fire veeeery more slowly.
I learnd too mouch with you, guys, THANKS🔥👍!!! And SALUDOS from Argentina 🇦🇷
Great watch ....my family thanks you from a nice warm house ✌️❤️
One comment on your glass recommendation. I don’t think you meant tempered glass. Rather than tempered glass for a window on these, , one wants ceramic stove glass. Common brands are neoceram and robax, among others... Plain old tempered glass would shatter at these temps, possibly explosively, and at a temperature where it could ignite any combustibles in the vicinity.
Very nice, I always wonder what is the difference between those two, now I understand. Thank you, Luck! Also, I am interested in the Batch Box also. Would be nice if you include the options of having the side cut out so can view fire from the side too :-) Looking forward to your new package! Nice work.
I really like what you have done here. Looks like you have the makings of a good product. For my shop, a smaller batch-box would be perfect.
Very good video. Actually burning, good dog content, and easy to understand. I've been researching the heck out of these and your videos are very good.
How to incorporate heating for/ cooking & hw?
Really helpful video..
Thanks from Austraya!
Hi Luke. I just built a rocket stove water heater using your 6 inch j tube kit for the core. It went together very easily and burned well the first time. Thank you for making Cement fiber board much more accessible material for rocket cores, it works so well and is so much easier than fire brick or the other options for cores. I would be very interested in this batch box kit if you started offering them. My dad just built a metal shop building in central Oregon and we'd like to build a rocket mass heater for it. The batch box would be a much better option for that use, since he could get the fire started, load it up, and them get to work on his projects without having to feed the heater as often as he would with a J tube. Any chance you would be offering an 8 inch batch box core?
Jesse! I remember you from when you lived up in Montana at Paul's. My brother Jake came up and did some insulation with you at one point. When I shipped out your core I thought your name sounded familiar. Great to hear from you, and thanks for the feedback. Have you got any photos/video of the water heater you put together with the core I shipped you? I don't have many photos of my cores in action yet.
An 8" batch is definitely a possibility. It will use more materials than a 6". I was working on the 6" batch for a while but still have some final details to work out. A main issue right now is figuring out what to line the batch box with. Matt's designs call for lining just with the ceramic fiber and I have questions about the long term durability with that approach. My preference would be a fire brick lining like the feed tube for the J. I'll shoot you an e-mail with some thoughts...
Ceramic fiber board is the way to go.
2inch no way you have to worry about fire. U can finish the rest with stone tile brick really anything
Very cool. I'm going to build one of these. I like the Batch box design, but I want to have a permanently installed clear ceramic window on the front of mine and don't want the hassle of trying to make it open as a door. So I'm thinking, why couldn't you just make a batch box design with a large insulated door lid on top and just drop the wood in from the door above then close it 100% sealed. I would make the air intakes the same as the batch box in this video. What do you think, any problems or issues modifying the Batch box design to have an insulated door on top and a non opening window on the front (with an air wash going over the glass)?
Get a wood stove with glass door like you want, build your rocket batch heater inside it
Would be very interested in buying an 8 inch batch box core and any ideas about fabricating the door with heat treated glass?
hola muy bueno el experimento con fibra ceramica de Matt ,aguanta el fuego directo ,soy de Argentina ,,es un transgresor ! muy buen trabajo
gracias. Si, Matt es un buen inventor. Tiene una estufa alli en Argentina?
Does smoke ever come up through the j tube feed?
you can use 250 gallons / 1000 liters of water as heat storage (best thermal mass)
how do you fasten the ceramic fibre board so that it doesn't have gaps? The chimney could have straps that I don't see but how do you keep the board inside the core from falling in? Refractory cement?
Have you re-opened your shop yet or are you still closed for new orders?
Hey Luke, I've never built one of these but perhaps your J Tube should have an air inlet on the bottom front? Maybe that would help with the wood stack catching fire?
I had an idea to put a lazagna of metal sheets like a radiator inside the bell to hold heat. Just an idea. What do you think?
Would love to see a cross profile of both stoves? good video...
Great video 🔥
rocket heater rize is to short, that is why the fire comes out of the burning channel feed tube.
awesome need more videos bro.
They seem to be in competition
Whats the dimenso for the opening right before the raiser? Also, whats the thickness of the wall going into the raise?
Hi luke, wondering if you are still working on a batch box core, would love to try one!
I tried to buy but you are no longer selling? Or just back ordered ? Thank you
What makes the batch box a rocket heater? Isn't this built as basically a wood stove?
It's been 1 year. How are these doing?
Great video! Do you have plans?
walkerstoves.com has the plans that these are based on. I sell the 6" at rocketstovecores.com and also have a few batch boxes that are more or less ready for shipment if you are interested
Could the one on the left be used inside if you added a pipe?
i also am super confused how youre using fibre board here. its designed as a backer behind firebrick or metal, never as the actual inner lining or structure.wont it just fall apart? chip up? also isnt it toxix when cut or disturbed? (Unless Superwool lining the riser only)
I'm wondering if creating a cap valve for the core on the right would help make it more rocket ysimilar to the one on the left
Is this broke back?
Nice info.
The J style seems way better to me, it’s not designed to be left burning…a short burn gets the cob up to temp then it’s left to got out. The box style is more contemporary so people aren’t as apprehensive about the sideways burn. Get stuff thanks.
Could you use a wood stove first and connect it to a rocket stove to use the gas from the stove without secondary burn ???? Maybe this would give more heat since two stoves are connected ???? Thanks
One of the reasons that rocket stoves are so efficient is that you're not extracting heat from the burn chamber. This allows the fire to reach temperatures that burn off creosote and carbon monoxide. Then the heat is extracted into the air and thermal mass after the burn stage.
@@doctorsmoothy Thank you for clarifying that up Augustus.
@@victoryfirst2878 You could spend thousands of hours reading the Donkey and Permies forums and see all the creative things people have tried. Every "clever" thing I thought of has already been explored. Mostly it comes down to using verified core dimensions and using materials that can withstand crazy temps.
you could use a wood stove for the 'batch box' but it would need to be double walled on the inside with thick fire brick. not letting the heat escape from the walls. then into a chimney with fire brick. you would have to experiment.
@@hk93shooter Thanks for the information shooter. Good day too. VF
Ceramic Fibre board is used as a backup most of the time to refractory installations I don't understand what u are trying to accomplish here are u using this to heat an area this is not something u use as a permanent thing I've been installing this stuff mainly for a backup to refractory or to make commercial flues for heat treating ovens after time from the heat they will breakdown and if u get them wet just say goodbye to it it will fall apart 2nd of all after time from being under heat it will breakdown becoming very toxic fibres from what u are using is cancer causing trust me I've been in the refractory installations business for almost 45 yrs this is not something u put in your house or garage just a warning the stuff u are using is Fibre board read the MSDS on this stuff dust particles from cutting this stuff is very hazardous make sure u wear respirator when cutting this stuff
Someone, seemingly very knowledgeable person, warns about the same thing in the permies in a long and very detailed discussion. How about dense mullite brick then?
I don’t understand what you’re saying (punctuation would help). Should ceramic fibreboard NOT be used to line a stove? Then, what? Firebrick only?
The discussion on the Permies forum identifies surface treatments to mitigate these issues. In the UK the off the shelf solution is to apply Vitcas Zircon paint to the interior ceramic surfaces of the stove. This is used in commercial kilns. I don't pretend to know enough to say this is necessary but you can use it if you're worried.
The black smoke is from pitch I think
Good ideas, but needed to point out VENTILATION ☝️if having these in house... Blessings 🙏🌟🕊️
I would just put wire stove screen in front of batch box design stove.
i'm building a batch box design at this moment ...is the p channel unnecessary? i have a secondary air channel underneath the floor of the box. it feeds air into the bottom of the riser...do you think that is ok?
Primary air and secondary air are both necessary for optimal performance. In the batch box in the video I did not have a primary air port in the door but I should have (it was my first build). There were enough small gaps for extra air to come in... but if it had been well sealed it probably wouldn't have worked quite as well.
@@lukeshomestead8760 when you say primary and secondary air...are you talking about inlets both near the bottom of the door...and not the p channel at all...am i correct?
@@rwhirsch Primary air inlet is a hole, often near the bottom the door. Secondary air is for the p channel. For a more thorough discussion see Peter's site. He is one of the main developers of the batch box
batchrocket.eu/en/building#dimension
if this is really tiny, does that mean it can be utilized on a sailing boat? we need a lightweight functional rocket mass water heater and stove/oven... all in one solution not larger than 20"x20"x30" height... with so much knowledge all around us, why hasnt anyone come up with a clean simple solution that works afloat? there are thousands of sailors waiting guys..... what are you waiting for?
Aircrete is same result for a fraction of the cost
Why do you not advice the long sticks?
Long sticks the stick out of the J tube will encourage the fire to work its way back up the feed tube like you can see in the video. You want the fire to stay in the burn chamber and not creep back up. If a long flaming stick were to break and fall out of the burn chamber it could start a fire where you don't want one.
995 Degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius? Celsius I presume.
At min 4:00 you can see that he is measuring with an F on the right side, hence Fahrenheit
Why is the flame coming out the feed tube?
The firewood we were using was too long. Normally you'd have a brick surround of some sort that elongates the height of the feed tube and allows for longer wood.
Is the riser 6 inch on the batch box?
Yes, in the batch box it is 6" square. The J tube is closer to 5"
Я так и не понял какая топка лучше? Переводчик гугл переводит не понятно.
batch supposed to NOT need to be fed as much as jtube. what about it?
I would want to heat water with this
Thanks everyone for the comments. I put this up a couple months ago to show a few friends our latest projects and didn't realize it had gotten so many views and comments!
Please note that the simple batch box door/plug we used (pictured around the 12:00 minute mark) didn't have a primary air inlet and it should have.
I have been selling the 6" J for a while at rocketstovecores.com
I hope to have the batch box available for sale in the very near future.
For plans to build one yourself you can visit walkerstoves.com (Matt Walker's site)
So you gonna make a smaller batch box - like the person said he wanted?
Where is all that Heat going
Also overall weight?
Overall height of the J is about 34", the batch is around 40"
Overall weight... 6" J is 24 lbs. Batch is probably 35 lbs+ without including the secondary air piece which is another 10 lbs or so
For sale door idea bevel cut door and opening so could be hinged with latch
Just make it sit over covering the opening, that is how real wood stove doors are anyway, with the seal on the back of the door, not on the edge. Even ovens on gas fired range tops have the oven door fit over top of the opening, not within the opening.
Not that i am saying you can't do your ideal, but it will take a lot of work to make it work as good, or better than just have it cover the opening and put the seal on the back of the door.
Technically on a house exterior door it seals on the back/front of the door also, near the edge, not the edges itself. Those pieces of wood nailed into the door jam that stops the door from shutting too far in, is where it seals, and that will be on the front of the door near the edge, because exterior doors open inward. So in essence it is the same thing, the door fits over the opening, not within it. It only appears it fits within to an unexperienced eye, those pieces of wood stopping it from closing too far, it how it sits over the final opening. In the end after it is all built the opening is smaller than the door.
Would those rocket stoves get up to sauna temperatures?
Yes, they should.
მადლობა! ))
That j tube sucks