Thank you, sir! I hope I didn't let you down with my lack of cutting expertise. As a result of this video, I am going to change my angles slightly to make them just a little lower than I have been. I think for fish, it would not be as noticeable, but especially at room temperature, the angle of the edge came into more play in order to get a better bite on trimming the fat.
@@JendeIndustries You c-a-n-n-o-t let me down, this way at least !! I have seen other sahrpening videos that you have shared with viewers for free (use of shaptons for razors, stropping, use of naniwas and diamond stones on guided abrasive sharpening systems) and it is quite obvious that: 1) you do maintain a very honest approach on what you 're doing, 2) similarly, you do maintain a very honest approach towards your viewers on you tube and possible clientelle. A professional butcher / meat cutter might have done the same quicker, perhaps in a more decisive manner than you in that your very first video, but... "everyone before he becomes very tall and strong he was a baby". Proposal: it would be interesting to demonstrate the remaining cutting efficiency of these blades, after a session of usual / rational use of them. Almost every knife out of the box will cut OK, but if a knife after some 20min of rational use performs like beeing "tired" that could mean a respectable difference between products - price differences also considered. Yes, I'm in love with lowering the angles, esp because I usually eat not-overboiled-eggs, but most of my knives lie around 56HRC, and I don't always have the time needed to seriously sharpen them. I'll repeat it: you c-a-n-n-o-t let us down.
@@georgeskandalaros8661 Thank you for your continued support and amazing words of encouragement! One thing I try to bring to my videos is the fact that I am a discerning customer first, and not just another snake oil salesman. 😄 I did happen to use the G-3 again without any touchup on about 1/2 the Pork Shoulder amount in the video to cut 1" thick steaks, and there was some initial expected sharpness loss from the first time but by no means seriously dulled or in the need of any steeling. I know my local market people use the steel with almost every cut or 3 they make, but I think that is habit more than necessity in a lot of instances. But those guys cut for several hours every day, and a lot of it is room temp. One thing I have found that underlies longevity is the integrity of initial sharpening. Stock for Master Kuo is 120 belt, Trizact A30, the Jende White ceramic steel, and a buff. It's a very good factory sharp, IMO. Looking forward to trying to get some footage of these in the more natural market settings, next! 😁
@@JendeIndustries I FULLY - FULLY AGREE on that the integrity of the initial sharpening exerts a crucial role on the longevity potential of a knife edge, and THIS IS NOT PUT FORWARD TO FLATTER. Occasionally some female colleagues of mine give me their kitchen knives to sharpen them, or some male colleagues give me their small pocket knives to do the same. I always discriminate the work I 'll do and I clarify to them: that I' m just going to "refresh" the edge (between 10 to 20 minutes work, can be done at the workplace in the afternoon or during somme break) or I 'll have to take it back at my home, where I can take out my 240grit King stone, or my Suehiro 120grit (this is not an inserted ad, I also have some other formidable low grit stones), and make some slurry-ish mess on my table. In such a case I give them a spare knife of mine beeing sharp anyway to work with it, since working their knife at my home may take me two weeks. Why so much time? apart from beeing an amateur and usually not having adequate time available inside an afternoon, the other reason is that I want to achieve a perfect - newborn edge; I intend to get rid of all ill steel away, reveal new uncompromised steel which will form the really new edge - and from there give it a polish through stropping. This is how I conceptualize the integrity of the initial sharpening, and by the time and by discussing with my colleagues who trusted me their knives, I realize that all this procedure benefits edge longevity (not considering the use - rough or wise - these edges will meet). Once again I find that you follow a honest approach towards sharpening. About "factory sharp", most factories do only the first and the last step of the Master Kuo "stock" described, so you 're not wrong - it is a very good factory sharp. Many thanks for sharing. I continue the effort to watch all of your videos.
Tips generally require more time to sharpen than the main body of the blade. The curvature only really allows you to get a few points of the arc on the stone at any one time vs. the full 1" width on the flat/straight portions of the blade. So really it comes down to almost doing double on the tips. There is also the issue of the sweeping back of the blade does change the edge angle, so it too can make more effort. Positioning the blade so that the heel ant tip are in alignment parallel to the crossbar will give you the lest amount of deviation, especially at the tip. I hope to get more videos out soon now that we are going to launch the JIGS 2.0 version soon!
Thanks for asking! I would say the G-5 XL or 2XL is about the right size. If you go much bigger, then the 3XL and some of the FN Big 1400, 1500 and 1600.
Nicely done, for a first timer is not bad.
These knives respect what they cut.
Thank you, sir! I hope I didn't let you down with my lack of cutting expertise. As a result of this video, I am going to change my angles slightly to make them just a little lower than I have been. I think for fish, it would not be as noticeable, but especially at room temperature, the angle of the edge came into more play in order to get a better bite on trimming the fat.
@@JendeIndustries You c-a-n-n-o-t let me down, this way at least !!
I have seen other sahrpening videos that you have shared with viewers for free (use of shaptons for razors, stropping, use of naniwas and diamond stones on guided abrasive sharpening systems) and it is quite obvious that:
1) you do maintain a very honest approach on what you 're doing,
2) similarly, you do maintain a very honest approach towards your viewers on you tube and possible clientelle.
A professional butcher / meat cutter might have done the same quicker, perhaps in a more decisive manner than you in that your very first video, but... "everyone before he becomes very tall and strong he was a baby".
Proposal: it would be interesting to demonstrate the remaining cutting efficiency of these blades, after a session of usual / rational use of them. Almost every knife out of the box will cut OK, but if a knife after some 20min of rational use performs like beeing "tired" that could mean a respectable difference between products - price differences also considered.
Yes, I'm in love with lowering the angles, esp because I usually eat not-overboiled-eggs, but most of my knives lie around 56HRC, and I don't always have the time needed to seriously sharpen them.
I'll repeat it: you c-a-n-n-o-t let us down.
@@georgeskandalaros8661 Thank you for your continued support and amazing words of encouragement! One thing I try to bring to my videos is the fact that I am a discerning customer first, and not just another snake oil salesman. 😄
I did happen to use the G-3 again without any touchup on about 1/2 the Pork Shoulder amount in the video to cut 1" thick steaks, and there was some initial expected sharpness loss from the first time but by no means seriously dulled or in the need of any steeling. I know my local market people use the steel with almost every cut or 3 they make, but I think that is habit more than necessity in a lot of instances. But those guys cut for several hours every day, and a lot of it is room temp.
One thing I have found that underlies longevity is the integrity of initial sharpening. Stock for Master Kuo is 120 belt, Trizact A30, the Jende White ceramic steel, and a buff. It's a very good factory sharp, IMO.
Looking forward to trying to get some footage of these in the more natural market settings, next! 😁
@@JendeIndustries I FULLY - FULLY AGREE on that the integrity of the initial sharpening exerts a crucial role on the longevity potential of a knife edge, and THIS IS NOT PUT FORWARD TO FLATTER.
Occasionally some female colleagues of mine give me their kitchen knives to sharpen them, or some male colleagues give me their small pocket knives to do the same. I always discriminate the work I 'll do and I clarify to them:
that I' m just going to "refresh" the edge (between 10 to 20 minutes work, can be done at the workplace in the afternoon or during somme break) or
I 'll have to take it back at my home, where I can take out my 240grit King stone, or my Suehiro 120grit (this is not an inserted ad, I also have some other formidable low grit stones), and make some slurry-ish mess on my table. In such a case I give them a spare knife of mine beeing sharp anyway to work with it, since working their knife at my home may take me two weeks.
Why so much time? apart from beeing an amateur and usually not having adequate time available inside an afternoon, the other reason is that I want to achieve a perfect - newborn edge; I intend to get rid of all ill steel away, reveal new uncompromised steel which will form the really new edge - and from there give it a polish through stropping.
This is how I conceptualize the integrity of the initial sharpening, and by the time and by discussing with my colleagues who trusted me their knives, I realize that all this procedure benefits edge longevity (not considering the use - rough or wise - these edges will meet).
Once again I find that you follow a honest approach towards sharpening.
About "factory sharp", most factories do only the first and the last step of the Master Kuo "stock" described, so you 're not wrong - it is a very good factory sharp.
Many thanks for sharing. I continue the effort to watch all of your videos.
can you give some tips on how to sharpen the tips of knives on the jende jig? I just got a jig but the tips aren't getting sharp.
Tips generally require more time to sharpen than the main body of the blade. The curvature only really allows you to get a few points of the arc on the stone at any one time vs. the full 1" width on the flat/straight portions of the blade. So really it comes down to almost doing double on the tips. There is also the issue of the sweeping back of the blade does change the edge angle, so it too can make more effort. Positioning the blade so that the heel ant tip are in alignment parallel to the crossbar will give you the lest amount of deviation, especially at the tip. I hope to get more videos out soon now that we are going to launch the JIGS 2.0 version soon!
US orders ship from??
We have stock in the US, but any sharpening services or custom sheaths will ship from our Taiwan Location.
@@JendeIndustries Thanks. Placed an order and was curious.
?!
You sent me a coupon but when I tried to use it to order an FN G-5 it was not valid. I tried the What's app#, unavailable, is there a US number?
Is this company really in business? I've been trying to order a knife for almost 2 weeks, I get no response.
We're around, and still in business. Just saw your message, and will contact you. thanks!
칼 가지고 싶다. 나중 에 구매 햐야지
I see you also have an FN Large knife on the webstore, what size do you recommend for tuna 60+ lbs?
Thanks for asking! I would say the G-5 XL or 2XL is about the right size. If you go much bigger, then the 3XL and some of the FN Big 1400, 1500 and 1600.
Bro, you make the knife look bad