There’s another shoe you could’ve added to this list, but I think it may have come out after this video was made: the Scarpa Veloce. It’s an indoor-specific (though you can use it outdoors) beginner-intermediate climbing shoe. It’s lightweight, comfortable and super sensitive. I definitely think it’s a better shoe for teaching the importance of footwork versus the stiffer neutral shoes.
Absolutely. The list could include many more shoes. I tried to only include shoes that I have some personal experience with or some reliable 2nd hand opinions. I will definitely make an update to this in the future. I'll make sure to check out the Veloce before then!
Yeahh!! You are the climbing shoe maestro sir! I haven't worn all of them but my vote goes for the Momentums! They're super duper comfy and breathable and I had fun climbing in them, which is all that really matters right??
Hopefully getting more videos like that soon. I want to incorporate more actual climbing shots rather than me just talking. Need to bring that video production game closer to your level!
I’ve had the black diamond momentum for a little bit now and think I’ve progressed beyond their capability somewhat and was thinking of getting the scarpa force, is that a good next step up shoe?
The Force is a great shoe. It really depends on where you are in your climbing and what style you like to do. The Force will be good on vertical terrain. If you are looking to do some steep stuff you might want to look at another option. Let me know here or join my Discord server and we can chat.
Bryan's Bomber Beta I’m trying to get into steeper bouldering, but I don’t do any sport climbing. For now everything’s below V5. My main gripe with the momentum is that they’re horrible for heel and toe hooks.
Gotcha! You'll want something with some downturn and toe rubber. So if you want to stay with Black Diamond you could try the Shadow. I demoed them once and really liked them. Heard good things as well. Tons of options from other makers. Do you have a local spot you can try some on? If not let me know what ones you're looking at and I will try to steer you in a good direction.
Bryan's Bomber Beta I went and tried some on, and it came down to the la sportiva Miura and the scarpa force. But the scarpa was just too insanely comfy to pass up so that’s what I went with. Figure I’ll probably need something a little more aggressive again soon but I got a really good deal so why not. Thanks for all the help!
@@michaels8902 insanely comfortable right? You won't regret buying those shoes. I guarantee you'll be wearing those shoes occasionally even after you buy your next 3 pairs haha.
@WeebKun. FYI I ordered these a few weeks back and they run small in my experience. I wear a 10.5m street shoe and ordered a 10(43.5) and they were too small. I'd say either street size or maybe a half size up depending upon your toe length. I have short toes, but wider feet and my big toe was cramped.
I'm curious why Tarantulace "didn't make the list" Is that a meme or something? A shoe I should avoid? Total beginner here lol. I'm looking at the scarpa origin because they are having a clearance sale on an older model. I notice you said you didn't have experience with them but the price is right for me. As a beginner with metatarsal pain from running, I think starting with a wider toe box will be the right move for me even if more advanced shoes are narrower. I'm planning to climb indoors only for the foreseeable future. Not much outdoors where I am. I appreciate the tips though and will do some research into your recommendations.
Rick. Thanks for commenting. 50% a meme 50% there's just better options out there. Scarpa is a great brand. I love the Force Vs. The Origins are the cheaper alternative. I'm not familiar with the pain you're experiencing. A wider toe box may help. You can also just get a looser fit it that's more comfortable. Another consideration is do you want a soft shoe or a stiff shoe. Soft shoes are sensitive and the more comfortable but your toes have to do more work. A stiff shoe is powerful and supportive but can lack precision and comfort. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@BomberBeta Thanks! In the running shoe world they advise a wide toe box for metatarsal pain. So I'm a little nervous about climbing aggravating it. Shouldn't be too much of a problem but I will be open to considering stiffer shoes in my shopping.
Hey beginner climbers! I was wondering what do you look for when purchasing your first or second pair of climbing shoes? As a more experienced climber my thoughts might be different from yours so I'm interested to hear what you think. Deeper dives into this topic ---> bomberbeta.com/discord-invite/
I'm still a beginner climber, but I bought the La Sportiva Finale mostly because they felt the most comfortable. I didn't really have any idea what I was looking for, but I tried several of the cheaper available shoes and they felt the best on my feet :)
Comfort is a great reason to buy a shoe. As a beginner, your climbing shoe performance is not that important. You should get a shoe that you enjoy wearing while you learn how to climb. Great comment!
The biggest thing I looked for was buckle placement for shoes with velcro, because of the way my feet are shaped. I bought a pair of black diamond momentums (great shoe) but when I tightened them for harder routes the buckle would rub and cause blisters on the top of my foot. Again not knocking the shoe because it's a excellent shoe, my feet just didn't fit the shoe properly.
@@philk9003 very interesting. I never considered that to be an issue. So it's basically the metal buckle of the Velcro strap that's giving you fits? Did you get a different shoe or do you just leave them loose so it doesn't hurt?
Love your videos👍 and I joined your channel. Like the climbing tips from beginners too advanced. Hope to see more soon. I would be glad to welcome you on my one, too 😉
@@BomberBeta yeah it was the music. Sorry I was unsure if this was a recent video or not, but I'm glad you sorted it out after this was posted. Personally I'd probably try to tune it so that it's the same volume as your voice. Overall enjoyed the video though!
A new version for 2023 would be nice 😉👍
As a begginer climber, I wish I had known your youtube channel much earlier. Nice video about beginner shoes.
Glad you liked the video! Share it with some friends!
There’s another shoe you could’ve added to this list, but I think it may have come out after this video was made: the Scarpa Veloce. It’s an indoor-specific (though you can use it outdoors) beginner-intermediate climbing shoe. It’s lightweight, comfortable and super sensitive. I definitely think it’s a better shoe for teaching the importance of footwork versus the stiffer neutral shoes.
Absolutely. The list could include many more shoes. I tried to only include shoes that I have some personal experience with or some reliable 2nd hand opinions. I will definitely make an update to this in the future. I'll make sure to check out the Veloce before then!
I tried on the Force V shoe and they were easily the most comfortable shoe compared to the tarauntula and momentum
I know it's kind of crazy. They are definitely in a league of their own! Thanks for the comment 🤘
I climb in og 5.10 Moccasyns and Black Diamond Momentum’s and I can confirm they are both great, comfortable once broken in and not super expensive
Decided to pick up the force V, pretty comfy!
I finally got a pair a few weeks ago. I'll do a full review soon. Really love those shoes, just as good as when I demoed them!
Yeahh!! You are the climbing shoe maestro sir! I haven't worn all of them but my vote goes for the Momentums! They're super duper comfy and breathable and I had fun climbing in them, which is all that really matters right??
Dope chose! Black Diamond is really putting out some good stuff.
P.S. Would love to see more climbing technique videos from you!
Hopefully getting more videos like that soon. I want to incorporate more actual climbing shots rather than me just talking. Need to bring that video production game closer to your level!
Hey, nice channel. Always fancied a pair of Moccs but never pulled the trigger - they look like such a comfy gym shoe. Subbed :)
Definitely super comfy. Thanks for the compliment. Subbed back!
La Sportiva Tarantula and Boreal Joker should be in that list
Have you tried the Scarpa Vapour V? if so what was your opinion?
I did a review on the older Vapor V. I think the newer ones are pretty similar. ua-cam.com/video/CQM3n4Eo7qM/v-deo.html
I climbed El cap free solo with only Kirkland brand knock offs.
I’ve had the black diamond momentum for a little bit now and think I’ve progressed beyond their capability somewhat and was thinking of getting the scarpa force, is that a good next step up shoe?
The Force is a great shoe. It really depends on where you are in your climbing and what style you like to do. The Force will be good on vertical terrain. If you are looking to do some steep stuff you might want to look at another option. Let me know here or join my Discord server and we can chat.
Bryan's Bomber Beta I’m trying to get into steeper bouldering, but I don’t do any sport climbing. For now everything’s below V5. My main gripe with the momentum is that they’re horrible for heel and toe hooks.
Gotcha! You'll want something with some downturn and toe rubber. So if you want to stay with Black Diamond you could try the Shadow. I demoed them once and really liked them. Heard good things as well. Tons of options from other makers. Do you have a local spot you can try some on? If not let me know what ones you're looking at and I will try to steer you in a good direction.
Bryan's Bomber Beta I went and tried some on, and it came down to the la sportiva Miura and the scarpa force. But the scarpa was just too insanely comfy to pass up so that’s what I went with. Figure I’ll probably need something a little more aggressive again soon but I got a really good deal so why not. Thanks for all the help!
@@michaels8902 insanely comfortable right? You won't regret buying those shoes. I guarantee you'll be wearing those shoes occasionally even after you buy your next 3 pairs haha.
i'm actually looking to get the scarpa origin
I don't have any experience with those. Let me know what you think.
@WeebKun. FYI I ordered these a few weeks back and they run small in my experience. I wear a 10.5m street shoe and ordered a 10(43.5) and they were too small. I'd say either street size or maybe a half size up depending upon your toe length. I have short toes, but wider feet and my big toe was cramped.
@@generalHod yeah i actually bought them a couple months ago and i downsized by 1. it is a bit cramped. might get street size or try a different last
I'm curious why Tarantulace "didn't make the list" Is that a meme or something? A shoe I should avoid? Total beginner here lol. I'm looking at the scarpa origin because they are having a clearance sale on an older model. I notice you said you didn't have experience with them but the price is right for me. As a beginner with metatarsal pain from running, I think starting with a wider toe box will be the right move for me even if more advanced shoes are narrower. I'm planning to climb indoors only for the foreseeable future. Not much outdoors where I am. I appreciate the tips though and will do some research into your recommendations.
Rick. Thanks for commenting. 50% a meme 50% there's just better options out there. Scarpa is a great brand. I love the Force Vs. The Origins are the cheaper alternative. I'm not familiar with the pain you're experiencing. A wider toe box may help. You can also just get a looser fit it that's more comfortable. Another consideration is do you want a soft shoe or a stiff shoe. Soft shoes are sensitive and the more comfortable but your toes have to do more work. A stiff shoe is powerful and supportive but can lack precision and comfort. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@BomberBeta Thanks! In the running shoe world they advise a wide toe box for metatarsal pain. So I'm a little nervous about climbing aggravating it. Shouldn't be too much of a problem but I will be open to considering stiffer shoes in my shopping.
the scarpas force v are soo fucking Comfy to the point where I really even take them off great fit
Rarely
No kidding! Probably more comfortable than half my hiking boots 😜
drago lv are amazing
I'll add them to the list of shoes to try! Thanks!
Would love to see you shave.
Hey beginner climbers! I was wondering what do you look for when purchasing your first or second pair of climbing shoes? As a more experienced climber my thoughts might be different from yours so I'm interested to hear what you think.
Deeper dives into this topic ---> bomberbeta.com/discord-invite/
Also make sure you check out this playlist for more information on beginner climbing shoes: ua-cam.com/play/PLhmE50GnA1YjgtaKqTavkFpWy6R8QyaXJ.html
I'm still a beginner climber, but I bought the La Sportiva Finale mostly because they felt the most comfortable. I didn't really have any idea what I was looking for, but I tried several of the cheaper available shoes and they felt the best on my feet :)
Comfort is a great reason to buy a shoe. As a beginner, your climbing shoe performance is not that important. You should get a shoe that you enjoy wearing while you learn how to climb. Great comment!
The biggest thing I looked for was buckle placement for shoes with velcro, because of the way my feet are shaped. I bought a pair of black diamond momentums (great shoe) but when I tightened them for harder routes the buckle would rub and cause blisters on the top of my foot. Again not knocking the shoe because it's a excellent shoe, my feet just didn't fit the shoe properly.
@@philk9003 very interesting. I never considered that to be an issue. So it's basically the metal buckle of the Velcro strap that's giving you fits? Did you get a different shoe or do you just leave them loose so it doesn't hurt?
Love your videos👍 and I joined your channel. Like the climbing tips from beginners too advanced. Hope to see more soon. I would be glad to welcome you on my one, too 😉
Subscribed back! Looking forward to watching some videos!!!
I like you. Have a sub.
Thank you 🙏
holy crap your intro is loud
Thanks for letting me know. You're talking about the music correct? I've cut that out of some of my more recent videos per viewer requests.
@@BomberBeta yeah it was the music. Sorry I was unsure if this was a recent video or not, but I'm glad you sorted it out after this was posted. Personally I'd probably try to tune it so that it's the same volume as your voice. Overall enjoyed the video though!
Absolutely, working on the editing skills lol. Thanks again for letting me know if you ever see anything else. Love the feedback 🤙
@@BomberBeta keep up the good work!