I thank you so very much. I’ve had a leak mystery for 4 years, even had a mason look at it twice, he never saw this. Again, thank you very much for sharing this outstanding video.
The last comment is correct that aluminum flashing is not appropriate. BIA’s "Technical Note 7A: Water Penetration Resistance - Materials" can be referenced for recommendations and additional information at www.gobrick.com/Portals/25/docs/Technical%20Notes/TN7A.pdf. In short, you will see references to avoiding aluminum in these sections: SUMMARY OF RECOMMENDATIONS (page 1) Flashing: • Select flashing that is waterproof, durable, UV resistant and compatible with adjacent materials • Flashing materials should conform to applicable ASTM specifications • Do not use aluminum, sheet lead, polyethylene sheeting or asphalt-saturated felt, building paper or house wraps • Use a metal drip edge to extend flashings that degrade when exposed to UV light FLASHING, Sheet Metals, Aluminum (page 6) Aluminum. Aluminum should not be used as a flashing material in brick masonry. The caustic alkalies in fresh, unhardened mortar will attack aluminum. Although dry, seasoned mortar will not affect aluminum, corrosion can continue if the adjacent mortar becomes wet.
You mentioned that the flashing should be at or just below the base plate but you actually installed it above the base plate but said you were installing it below just for the demonstration. Please clarify.
So how to resolve a small problem. During a renovation the plastic under the first row of brick damage and removed at the same time as the rotting wood structure. My dilemma now is what is/ are my possible solution/s to resolve this problem.
Aluminum flashing isn't appropriate for new masonry. Alkalis in the mortar will cause it to corrode. Other metals such as stainless steel or copper are common and will provide the additional durability.
Excellent video! Really informative. I just had my house built and the builder has put weeepholes but I did not see any flashing during construction. I pulled out a weephole cover to check and sure enough all I see is mortar at the back no flashing! Why has my bricklayer missed this! Disaster. Any suggestions as to what we should do?!
Yeah, me too, when I look in the weep hole I see concrete. I've got a tiny bit of water leaking in under the sill plate during bad rain events. If water pools for any length of time it will obviously wick through mortar, concrete, brick, etc. All I can come up with that doesn't involve tearing the wall down is to use a drill and a bit to clean/vacuum out the bottom of the weep hole VERY well. That will give the water in there as much chance to roll out on its own as possible. Right now almost all of them have some mortar splatter inside the channel so I'm assuming water sits in a pool behind that little mortar dam at each weep hole.
What if your house does not have weep holes? Could you go around the house and drill through and create a weep hole at the exact depth of the brick in order to prevent going through the WRB? Or do you feel this would create issues? For what it is worth, I can see black plastic sticking out beyond the lowest row of brick (between the brick and foundation).
Back in the 1980s no flashing or weep holes in residential. NONE. .. It's fair to assume probably not before then either. .. Except one time (I guess a home buyer requested it), the boss told me to go dig out a few head joints, he called them "weep holes", that was first time I heard that term.😂 The builder though was Highly Reputable, and we masons never had any complaints. In fact nothing but compliments from home buyers.😌
Im doing bsmt window sill stones, on a multi level home, they sit on the poured foundation wall, originally there was a thin plastic mortared btwn the wall and stone. My local building supply sold me 20mil poly and told me to use pitch btwn the wall and poly, then mortar the sill to the poly, but there is a bond break because the pitch doesn't harden and the sill wants to rotate out of place. Should I just use mortar on the poly to foundation and pitch on the poly to sill plate? Thank you for your reply
Would you still use a base flashing if your base was an angle iron mounted to the foundation? I noticed no base flashing when you simulated crossing the garage door angle in another video.
2:20-ish into this video. Flashing, in the late 90's was recommended to go through - as in this video. This was stopped in Michigan, as it allowed for water to seep in between the joint, freeze, expand, and crack the brick. Also, we do not push the flashing back. We cut it, keeping a square edge against the back lower corner, allowing for proper water run off. However, it is appearant that this has happened on jobs. Laying mortar on the flashing is not a good idea. this allows for issues with the wall rolling. Open head joint is not good Hornets, or bees, or other insects build nests. water builds up, freezes and expands. Also, how is one going to prevent mortar from filling the head joint, if the mason fails to clean out the head joint properly? Also, I see no mortar net between the brick wall and the plywood wall. This leads to a failed weep system, due to piled up mortar at the bottom of the wall. Also, ropes are bad weeps in Michigan, they soak up water in the winter, freeze, expand, and crack the wall.
@@stephaniewinegar5380 the flashing is suppose to hang over, if it is the metal flashing. If it is not metal flashing and it is a rubber type flashing, then a utility knife is fine. However, the flashing is typically suppose too hang over the brick or block to allow water to run off the face. Hope this helps.
ever seen the ground after a mason has laid brick,, mortar,, what is gonna keep mortar from falling behind wall. commercial jobs they use a mortar break on residential you don't have enough room between brick and wall to use a mortar break if a builder is smart he'll pay his bricklayer a little extra to put some small gravel about 3 inches tall from weep holes
Really interesting video. Enjoyed it and learnt a lot. I was hoping you were going to talk about combining weep holes and expansion joints! Now that would be really useful. Killing two birds with a stone. Thanks a lot. Howard
A weep hole is where water comes in when it floods. It let's bugs in as well. I've never seen any water coming out of my wall. But I've seen it going in. It must be a conspiracy to make sure houses flood and bugs get in. This ensures plenty of jobs in the related fields and services. Just like getting new eyeglasses every year ensures steady income for the eye doctor. Your eyes are getting worse every year because they increase your prescription every year. Then when you're so blind glasses don't work. Then they can do surgery. It's a sceme just like some shampoo. Some shampoo companies profit from hair loss. Hmmm...
Video still teaching these many years later. Thank you!
These videos have made me fall in love with bricks.
The host is fantastic.
"...much like grandmother's clothesline..."
I thank you so very much. I’ve had a leak mystery for 4 years, even had a mason look at it twice, he never saw this. Again, thank you very much for sharing this outstanding video.
The last comment is correct that aluminum flashing is not appropriate. BIA’s "Technical Note 7A: Water Penetration Resistance - Materials" can be referenced for recommendations and additional information at www.gobrick.com/Portals/25/docs/Technical%20Notes/TN7A.pdf. In short, you will see references to avoiding aluminum in these sections:
SUMMARY OF RECOMMENDATIONS (page 1)
Flashing:
• Select flashing that is waterproof, durable, UV resistant and compatible with adjacent materials
• Flashing materials should conform to applicable ASTM specifications
• Do not use aluminum, sheet lead, polyethylene sheeting or asphalt-saturated felt, building paper or house wraps
• Use a metal drip edge to extend flashings that degrade when exposed to UV light
FLASHING, Sheet Metals, Aluminum (page 6)
Aluminum. Aluminum should not be used as a flashing material in brick masonry. The caustic alkalies in fresh, unhardened mortar will attack aluminum. Although dry, seasoned mortar will not affect aluminum, corrosion can continue if the adjacent mortar becomes wet.
You mentioned that the flashing should be at or just below the base plate but you actually installed it above the base plate but said you were installing it below just for the demonstration. Please clarify.
I have never seen flashing or weep holes in residential brick homes in my area.
Sometimes weep holes in brick walls are hard to spot, but they are there
Thanks, mate. It helps me a lot.
So how to resolve a small problem. During a renovation the plastic under the first row of brick damage and removed at the same time as the rotting wood structure. My dilemma now is what is/ are my possible solution/s to resolve this problem.
really impressive and thanks for the video
This man is so fucking wholesome
Good video... now the question is how to FIX the incorrect install that the builders did on my house.. hmm...
Aluminum flashing isn't appropriate for new masonry. Alkalis in the mortar will cause it to corrode. Other metals such as stainless steel or copper are common and will provide the additional durability.
Excellent video! Really informative. I just had my house built and the builder has put weeepholes but I did not see any flashing during construction. I pulled out a weephole cover to check and sure enough all I see is mortar at the back no flashing! Why has my bricklayer missed this! Disaster. Any suggestions as to what we should do?!
Yeah, me too, when I look in the weep hole I see concrete. I've got a tiny bit of water leaking in under the sill plate during bad rain events. If water pools for any length of time it will obviously wick through mortar, concrete, brick, etc.
All I can come up with that doesn't involve tearing the wall down is to use a drill and a bit to clean/vacuum out the bottom of the weep hole VERY well. That will give the water in there as much chance to roll out on its own as possible. Right now almost all of them have some mortar splatter inside the channel so I'm assuming water sits in a pool behind that little mortar dam at each weep hole.
wall ties near base on framing will keep brick on flashing in place
Self-adhered elastomeric base flashing is THE way to go.
Why? It's helpful if you explain why, otherwise you sound like your pedaling some shitty wares. Cheers.
bitch-o-thane.... beauch
Can you use metal like aluminum? That rubber would last what like 50 years maybe? I see metal flashing lasting much longer
Tanks for the video .......
What if your house does not have weep holes? Could you go around the house and drill through and create a weep hole at the exact depth of the brick in order to prevent going through the WRB? Or do you feel this would create issues? For what it is worth, I can see black plastic sticking out beyond the lowest row of brick (between the brick and foundation).
It's not recommended to drill because you might damage the flashing.
Back in the 1980s no flashing or weep holes in residential. NONE. .. It's fair to assume probably not before then either. .. Except one time (I guess a home buyer requested it), the boss told me to go dig out a few head joints, he called them "weep holes", that was first time I heard that term.😂 The builder though was Highly Reputable, and we masons never had any complaints. In fact nothing but compliments from home buyers.😌
really impressive, thanks very much
Im doing bsmt window sill stones, on a multi level home, they sit on the poured foundation wall, originally there was a thin plastic mortared btwn the wall and stone. My local building supply sold me 20mil poly and told me to use pitch btwn the wall and poly, then mortar the sill to the poly, but there is a bond break because the pitch doesn't harden and the sill wants to rotate out of place. Should I just use mortar on the poly to foundation and pitch on the poly to sill plate? Thank you for your reply
What happens if you forgot the flashing part!?
Would you still use a base flashing if your base was an angle iron mounted to the foundation?
I noticed no base flashing when you simulated crossing the garage door angle in another video.
2:20-ish into this video. Flashing, in the late 90's was recommended to go through - as in this video. This was stopped in Michigan, as it allowed for water to seep in between the joint, freeze, expand, and crack the brick. Also, we do not push the flashing back. We cut it, keeping a square edge against the back lower corner, allowing for proper water run off. However, it is appearant that this has happened on jobs. Laying mortar on the flashing is not a good idea. this allows for issues with the wall rolling. Open head joint is not good Hornets, or bees, or other insects build nests. water builds up, freezes and expands. Also, how is one going to prevent mortar from filling the head joint, if the mason fails to clean out the head joint properly? Also, I see no mortar net between the brick wall and the plywood wall. This leads to a failed weep system, due to piled up mortar at the bottom of the wall. Also, ropes are bad weeps in Michigan, they soak up water in the winter, freeze, expand, and crack the wall.
You said to cut the flashing? How do you cut it? It is hanging over on my daughter's home that she just purchased.
@@stephaniewinegar5380 the flashing is suppose to hang over, if it is the metal flashing. If it is not metal flashing and it is a rubber type flashing, then a utility knife is fine. However, the flashing is typically suppose too hang over the brick or block to allow water to run off the face. Hope this helps.
@@stephaniewinegar5380 the flashing, if it is the rubber, can be cut with a uitlity knife, flush with the face of the masonry
What do you do with the black flashing hanging over the brick? Can you cut it off?
Yea
who would want to look at the flashing as it was shown through the wall in the middle of the wall?
PaddleDogC5 better than a leak. Trust me.
Hi, how you doing?
What about weep screed? it can be use at the same time with vinyl flashing? or is different? thanks
ever seen the ground after a mason has laid brick,, mortar,, what is gonna keep mortar from falling behind wall. commercial jobs they use a mortar break on residential you don't have enough room between brick and wall to use a mortar break if a builder is smart he'll pay his bricklayer a little extra to put some small gravel about 3 inches tall from weep holes
Really interesting video. Enjoyed it and learnt a lot. I was hoping you were going to talk about combining weep holes and expansion joints! Now that would be really useful. Killing two birds with a stone. Thanks a lot. Howard
How does the water get behind the wall if the house is built right
Brick and masonry products are porous. Water will get behind the wall.
blue skin works to
👍👍👍
FIRST STEP would be to put a seam sealer on the wall to the slab. this house got fucked from the start lol
A weep hole is where water comes in when it floods. It let's bugs in as well. I've never seen any water coming out of my wall. But I've seen it going in. It must be a conspiracy to make sure houses flood and bugs get in. This ensures plenty of jobs in the related fields and services. Just like getting new eyeglasses every year ensures steady income for the eye doctor. Your eyes are getting worse every year because they increase your prescription every year. Then when you're so blind glasses don't work. Then they can do surgery. It's a sceme just like some shampoo. Some shampoo companies profit from hair loss. Hmmm...
6:07 it was all going so well........lol
Very informative and worthwhile video, shit jokes aside.
That is why the trade is dying. Does wind treat a commercial building different from a residence? Does an earthquake? Stupid code.
ALUMINUM!! The way to go for brick flashing
zzzzzzzz