Bomber Flashing Detail for the Base of A Brick Wall
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- You know how I nerd out of my waterproofing details... this is a detail that once I saw it at a trade show I knew I wanted to use it on my house!
Here's a link to the product I'm using.
mortarnet.com/...
Prosoco products I mentioned. prosoco.com/pr...
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www.Poly-Wall.com
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Copper is truly underappreciated. These days copper door knobs n handles would be a blessing, we should really make copper popular again.
I love how Matt glued the rocks to his wall as well...
A lot of newer technology in this house. Could end up being a recall nightmare like some of the old building materials of the past
Doubt it. But I hear you
Jose Gomez time will tell. A lot of dumb stuff that has had recalls in the past. My house has a lot of these same materials that he has doing so I’m in the same boat
Agreed! Once it’s covered over you will never know what’s taking place behind the brick. You can try and reproduce Mother Nature in a controlled laboratory condition, but nothing bites you in the ass better than Mother Nature!
@@josegomez6549 You may be sincere in your doubts, but my 50 +/- years doing high end construction ( and a LOT of leak remediation on other people's disasters) tells me to plan for otherwise. I put up a fairly detailed comment/ problem description on the "Flush Concrete to Framing...." video, that is the first look at this subject. See at the Comments started by 2A All Day. Talking the talk caries no weight with guys like me (there are a few of us around, even today), whereas I put great value in observations from those who walk the walk (as I have).
FWIW, if I thought the ledge in this example could not stand to get wet (which I don't think), I would do a full 24 oz soldered copper flashing over the entirety. I have worked on 100+ year old houses where this copper "technology" is still in fine shape. Adding plastics to create more layers on a material that is superb as a stand-alone is simply not in the cards for any job of mine. And I have commented more on this elsewhere in this video. Final thought, If we actually trained our mechanics, we would not have to come up with overly complicated systems that are supposedly "FOOLPROOF" (means NO SKILL required).
Nothing can be made foolproof, because fools are so ingenious.
At least it his own house
Used mortar net since the late 90's, great stuff against the leaky brick problem the brick manufacturers brought us during the early 90's. Going to the three hole manufacturing process allowed the mortar on the head joint to slump more causing more moisture to enter the housing envelope. For us (Cincinnati Ohio) that always have basements with our projects it also exposed several bad building techniques we were using. Customer began calling us every time it rained with water pouring down their foundation walls. Big learning lesson and a complete change in our building process.
Matt Thanks for showing what’s possible. Promoting new innovations, though expensive now, will become standard and less expensive, all the while is the mother of newer ideas and methods. Thanks
This house has EVERYTHING! Thanks for sharing Matt. I love the details.
Hi Matt!
Why don't you use ventilation gaps between the brick fasade and zip sheet? Leaving 30 to 40 mm gap ( ~ 1,5 inch?) between them + leaving every third vertical seam from the firts or second brick row without mortar allows airflow and helps the wall to dry.
+ wet brick is not in touch with rest of the wall and when excess mortar is removed from behind the brick there is a little change water even touches zip. (+ wall ties in incline so water does not travel throug them.) This works at Finland at least thou the climate is more like Minnesota than Texas...
Same here. I have a “pass it down” mentality and I wish more people before me had it. I bought a 40 year old house built in a development which I was explained the developer builds as cheap as possible for obvious reasons comparing to a custom built home. I had no experience but found no common sense was put into this house. There was an unsealed basement wall with sheet rock nailed to the cynder block, wet sheet rock, and black mold. That I only found out because the shower started leaking into the floor and I tore it out, cleaned up and am currently working on sealing the wall tonight. This video was under suggestions and got my mind going while watching it. I’ve never even thought about what is going on behind the brick wall. A while back I was talking to a friend about doing things the right way and how I wouldn’t want to half ass things even if I was going to sell it.
Matt
Great video
I am a architect in Massachusetts who works on public buildings. Your videos are great to explain to my younger staff . Can’t wait till the next video
Cute scarf pal !!! Ready to be ham sawed day or night !!!
I admire the efforts towards long-term durability, but I would have issues with a bunch of the details, as regarding my own builds. Last large job was 2" polyiso continuous exterior with "outie" windows. We used Barritech VP self-sealing (up to 1/4" dia fasteners) liquid applied over 100% of exterior wall sheathing, with compatible embedded fiberglass reinforcing mat (where appropriate at joints and intersections) and primered self-adhering, self-sealing 6" and 12" roll materials. We covered the foam up with a FULL drainage plane/ mat and then 5" bed thickness stone veneer. Any water problems would have huge implications.
My reservations with this video/ assembly is the lack of a full self-sealing coating, and all the various layers and reliance on bonds and sealants for reverse laps. KISS. With the stuff we used, in this case, I would not goo up the wood-concrete joint with just a sealant. I would rely on the 1 1/2 " step-down in the ledge, and primer a 12" wide membrane that started just on the ledge, and then ran up the wall. If I was really paranoid in this case, I would use something like Waterplug (fast set hydraulic repair cement) to fill on the ledge, up the face of the step, flush with the face of the sheathing. Then the membrane will lay flat, no wrinkles or bubbles. Dr. Joe would love me. Think shingles (not the disease, however). Next the full liquid applied, which laps over the membrane at the base in one clean process. I would also consider a SMALL bead of sealant at the wood sill- concrete interface first, just because. And if I was really paranoid, I would cut a slight slope on the flat of the ledge before I did anything. Cleanliness is next to Godliness. My thing about the membrane on the wood-concrete joint is because the physical properties (thermal and moisture) are so radically different that I want something that I can absolutely rely on structurally. If a small amount of water gets behind the red stuff, you will have failure. Unless you have a flood, the ledge-step does the yeoman's work here: just need to prevent capillary action. I would be sure to keep the polyiso up about 1/2" above the ledge, to insure clear drainage of anything that might get behind. I think the Brillo pads are okay, but it is imperative that the weeps be forever open, either with cotton rope or whatever. Around here, mud-daubers will fill any hole in a house facade: an open weep will get plugged by insects. It is not necessary to have a completely open bed joint on the ledge, concrete is pretty durable when faced with moisture. And I am not sure the actual value of all the layers being built up with this system; I could see it if there are vulnerable materials below, but not the case here. My other reservation is all the voids that are created by use of sealants in parallel lines (not full coverage) in the layers sheet materials, that seem to serve no useful function, but may serve as water traps down the road.
Back to full liquid applied/ self-sealing membrane. If you are concerned about filing overdriven nail holes, then you should be REALLY concerned about masonry ties punching thought the polyiso and then making a ragged penetration in the Zip sheathing. This is a wicking/ leaking scenario waiting to unfold, and you have no clue and no control over the situation, once built. We used, after extensive testing, a commercial stud and wire loop masonry tie, with a rubber-washered shoulder at the wall plane (belt and suspenders). The eye for the wire was just clear of the foam. A test pan with the assembly under 2" of water held absolutely for the 30 day test duration. Only way I slept, covering everything up. And we had the "Brillo mat" (ours had a plastic dimpled backer sheet, basically foundation drain mat) over the entire wall.
So, everyone has to evaluate their own circumstances. You pays your money, you makes your choice.
Thank you for this detailed technical description and the time you put into writing it. Shingles, not the disease - LOL!
@@justamusta Well, I have put up a few verbose comments recently, and now I know at least one has been read (all the way through). I appreciate the thank you. Stuff I have to say is a bit over-the-top for most laymen, but I think it valuable to provide a more expansive viewpoint re: critical water management topics. My real point is to think carefully about how one frames (pun??) the problem, as that will define the solution. A big concern I have here is that moving product is becoming the operant criteria for content. I definitely do not share the hater's viewpoint that what Matt is doing is overkill, but I fear that some of what he does, or shows, is somewhat misguided.
Same concern about brick ties -- can you share the masonry tie you referenced. Thanks for the input!
@@CB-jl8ii Sorry for not responding before, but got no notification of your reply/ question. Our commercial masonry sub got the ties, we tested thoroughly, as far as sealing. I did Google search and found this distributor, that has a lot of stuff:
www.masonpro.com/products/commercial/brick-veener-anchors/
Here is the manufacturer's data sheet, for the one we used, or a very close competitor:
www.masonpro.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Heckmann_Pos-I-Tie.pdf
I am sure we had a small EPDM washer on the nose of the barrel, as shown in the structural steel application drawing. That gave us an additional seal at the liquid applied membrane over the OSB sheathing. We pre-marked studs, and required all ties had to be in studs, not just OSB. And under NO CIRCUMSTANCE can a fastener be removed once it goes through the foam (could leave a hole in the membrane).
On a brick job, coursing can be known within tolerance of the wire tie height adjustment, and the placement can be well in advance of the masonry start. With our rubble stone, the ties must be placed as one goes, stone by stone. This tie worked very well for us, no complaints at all. Good luck with your project(s).
@@leestevens446 Thanks very much Lee --- appreciate the detail and links; helps a lot and plan on using !
I love watching the construction on these homes.
I love to see a residential contractor who gives a hoot. Too many residential contractors out there build nothing but cr@p. Keep it up Matt!
Appreciate the detailing you’ve shown here Matt. That mortar net is a brilliant idea and the copper flashing pure class.
And a huge waste of money.
I really like this flashing! The exposed hem, all the sealants in the expected spots... Yeah. If ever I get to build my own house, I’m doing it like this.
First!
Dork.
We use the Low and Bonar Rainscreen product for the walls
You're a legend .... IN YOUR OWN MIND!
What a nut! Good personality!
First on your own post doesn’t count...
I'm a portuguese civil engineer and certified passive house designer. I subbed Matts channel to learn about timber construction, which is still not very common here, together with new materials and technology. I can't help feeling that much of this technology is just complicating or even overlooking simple sound principles of good construction. I would've made a simple flashing on the overstep, down and out, and kept the brick wall way away from the inner wall, about 1,5" to 2", so no mortar can build up between the two. On the first row of bricks, keep out one out of 4 so to give access to clean any mortar that may have fallen in, then place these without side mortar, so any water may come out and also for venting. Don't forget to make sure the brick wall is mechanically secure to the main frame, keeping in mind any water that seeps through the anchors must drop before reaching the inner wall, in the flashing. Also, use mortar with a bit of latex for the bricks. My humble opinion. Keep up the good work!
I'm glad that you mentioned that about the gaps between some of the bottom row of bricks. I live on the first floor of an apartment with brick siding. Last year, I caught five nonvenomous snakes in my apartment and the maintenance guys plugged those weep holes thinking that was the entrance for the snakes. A pest control guy found the true access point for the snakes where electric meter cables penetrated the brick wall. I've seen house cats climb brick walls but not snakes. However, I once helped a neighbor who had a large snake on her second-story balcony (I just shoved it off with a broom). So, now that I understand why they are there, I'll tell maintenance to unplug those brick holes.
Can't wait to see the brick tie detail 👍
JB weld?
My roof goes over my eaves that are over a foot wide. Then my slab is 6 inches and my brick was mortared very well it is a 70s house totally bricked and I check regularly for any holes never have seen any or had any problems. I got lucky and this house was built right and sound. I cant hear people in other rooms at all if the door is shut. I go to others house and it drives me crazy how loud things are. Lol hopefully it never gives me any problems but so far so good. Almost 20 yrs in.
Matt great job.
Great video as always. Your attention to detail regarding air/water has been very helpful. Sadly, I have a good friend who is having a home built here locally with almost the identical method to this house pre-remodel (e.g. Thermo-Ply with brick veneer). I walked through his house about a month ago and saw this. I didn’t think people still used Thermo-Ply as exterior sheathing (especially behind brick), but there it was.....clear as day. If I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes, I wouldn’t have believed it.
Oh goodness. Sorry to hear.
As a retired insurance adjuster I've seen it all. More hidden leaks than you can imagine.
One of my all time favorite sayings to our clients was, "your house is not a boat that you can flip over and expect to float." In your case I think it would.
Hope you agent is giving you all the discounts you are entitled to.
Love that you kept the brick
If water proofing is the goal? A simple copper flashing would be a lot faster and probably less expensive but I imagine the goal here was to promote your sponsors
How did you extend the foundation? Re-pour? What was the tie in? Was there a bonding agent used to connect to existing foundation? Or is is "floating?"
Rebar
This is a great channel and you can't beat the price (free). I've incorporated a number of methods from The Build Show on a recent and ambitious remodel. Certainly debating reliability of various systems and cost trade offs are useful and constructive. Yet, many comments here seem to be reflexive of a graying building industry resistant to change and starving of innovation and new ideas. It's like defending buggy whips while the technology of the automobile and internal combustion gained a foothold.
Sweet!! Appreciate all of the shows, most informative and innovative channel on youtube.
Very kind! Thanks for your support
Matt Risinger really enjoy you videos and I’m am starting my own building company. I have an off subject question, what framing estimator software do you recommend for a small builder. Thanks in advance.
Man this is a lot of work, how we do brick veneer in Aus works perfectly every time and is 1/10 the work! Seperate the slab from the brick, our external brick runs up from the foundation in a seperate skin with a cavity mandated by code at 1” past all obstructions, typically most do 2”!
Aus brick veneer is exactly the same as this....The slab is rebated as shown here and the brick sits in the rebate, tied to the frame with brick ties and the frame is wrapped in paper. Weep holes are placed in the lowest course of brick. This is the same system, with 5 x the complexity and 5 x the use of products. This system is better, but you have to question the cost/time etc vs the end goal.
same in Canada
Nice details, and as you mentioned...this type of detail is common place in my commercial & institutional line of work. Mortar net is a great product!
This house will be so air tight it will be like opening an air lock on the space station every time you crack the front door. All your stuff in the house will need to be secured, otherwise it will go flying out that door as the pressure equalizes.
That's not how pressure works.
I don't know what you are talking about. That's what happens in movies.
Duh.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I saw this exact thing last week
That's not how it works.
You will have problems only if you fucked up your air balance and underpressurized the house.
A year later and still have people commenting that can't understand a joke.
Was good till 5 mins. Not a complaint but an observation. Copper tubing which is thicker than that flexible foil, will become porous overtime, when in contact with cement products. Spent many an hour looking for pinhole leaks to find them usually from contact with mortars or cementatious plasters. Hopefully this won't give you headaches down the line.
Love the channel and this old/new build series.
The best build channel on UA-cam.
This Awesome...So Happy To Find Ya, Matt!!
You know how to get a good mason? Call the company that sells this and ask for the person who orders it in my area. :)
You know how to pay way to much for some flashing. See above. Seriously thou this seems like monumental overkill.
You may want to slightly round off the outside corners of your drips. They can be sharp, and no one notices them sticking out once they start to patina.
All of our metal preformed corners are rounded off to help prevent sharp edges.
So what is the difference between Sponsored and they just gave you the product???
I think the difference is the company didn't ask or make it a requirement that he produces a video advertising their product. He said I want to use your stuff and they said here you go have at it.
I love this channel! It broadens my knowledge of material and methods of installation. Cheers!
So , driving steel screws through the copper foil. Ain't it a reason of the electrochemical corrosion of the firsts in wet area? Thanks for the vids and stay well.
Yyyup. Galvanic corrosion between copper and steel is common. And copper and zinc. The bead of sealant should help reduce that. It can still happen though. In theory that area should stay dry, but in practice and a humid area... copper nails would have been better. Way more expensive, but better.
Always love copper flashing, such a beautiful and durable material left totally raw. Being able to solder easy is nice too on a roof. Why do old guys think "bomber" is a word for something that doesn't drop bombs?
Was waiting for this. Thanks. Can't wait to see how your air ducts will be ran.
You need an overlap on the outside corner, it odd the system was designed that way (7:30 mark). A bead of sealant will not work. You also applied sealant at the bottom of the copper so any water is now trapped.
I was also wondering about that, maybe the tiny bit of water that could someday leak when the caulk fails isn't enough to be a concern.
Also agree. That corner seems vulnerable. Surprised the copper corner piece isn’t bigger for overlap. And I wouldn’t trust the sealant as well.
Wow. I know next to nothing about building houses and wondered about those things. Glad to know I'm thinking like more knowledgeable people.
Probably not really caulk but most likely bytul which does not harden fully
Good points. Water would have to get through the brick then transport 1" over to the zip wall. He also talks about exterior foam so it would have to get through that as well. Since the place will be airtight there should not be much pressure driven water.
I know your a stickler for detail & perfection, as am I which is why I point this out and because I believe it is a better practice. On your 2 x 2 window spacers, I would of made the top horizontal piece long (full width) as I believe you did but would of made the bottom piece short and let your “vertices run full length to prevent water from possibly running back in. Just a thought!
Good job bro
Why not the Zip flashing tape, instead of the butyl goop?
Matt ,
As a builder myself I appreciate your videos, very informative however you forget to mention the costs involved with all these products technology you present.
Super expensive 😣
“If you have the cash, Flash... Don’t be a dope slope.” Dr Joe Lstiburek. This is indeed not free like the usual method of doing nothing. But when you build a quality home intended to last more than the first mortgage length then it’s wise to spend money on water management. #1 cause of lawsuits is water issues and wood framed homes #1 enemy is water.
I agree. Good old fashioned thoughtful design and detail is a way of ensuring a lack of water ingress with minimal sealant goop and expensive fandangle products.
@@buildshowjust to make a point: in the
past 35 year's I have built over 90 custom homes ranging $250k - $12 milon. I used old technology and never he'd a major water problem. All my builds are still standing solid.
I use to build in Southern California where we he'd budgets for technology.(old technology). Lol Unfortunately here in Texas it's different people are not willing to pay.
@@buildshow That's nice but it doesn't say anything about the cost, which is what the original question was. Sometimes its not about having or not having the cash but knowing how much to allocate to different bits of a project.....
shragaSteve Zitman Care to describe this “old technology”? I’m sure many here would like to learn from the past as well.
Man you guys get wicked products in the usa!!!! Different climates attribute to this I guess but man that's some bullet proof building!!!!
So after the flashing is done and all first layer water proofing, can we expect a company to come in and do a truck bed liner application to the walls. After the brick ties are installed of course cause that's going to add a lot of holes in the walls.
How do you anchor the brick and mortar ties to the foam? Do you cut out the foam to fasten them to the wall then put the plug back in? Maybe use a hole saw to cut out the plugs?
They just use an angled piece of metal to lay in between the brick and screw through the foam into the substrate.
I’m building a house now and I watch a ton of your videos. I think you know a lot and have a great deal to share. Please don’t cheapen your channel with sponsorship.
had the masons chip it back..... , my dad had US kids do that after school for like two months , he said we were free labor :D
Great video. Showing that doing it right isn’t really that hard, it takes a little time, and it costs a little bit up front. But the longevity and peace of mind far outlasts that temporary pain.
Matt, I love your videos, and your excitement about weather proofing/insulation, and some of it’s a good idea, but I doubt most people should spend an extra $20K on a $350K, or $100K+ on a $1 mil home. To make sure it lasts 300 hundred years. (Not talking about this product alone, but ALL of the weather proofing products you show/sell) Just saying :) That is “kind of like” doing a kitchen remodel and thinking no one will remodel it in the next 100 years. Nice thought, but just not how it seems to work these days. Homes get tore down and new development comes in their place. (See below for more detail/example)
My home is more than 100 years old, and yes, has it had to have a ton of work done, sure, but enough to justified the years of the uncertainty of additions and remolding or new development (etc.) over a 100 years to make it worth an extra $20-$30K (10%) upfront for a home where I am POSITIVE that none of my family will live in at that time. And hell, homes not even as old as mine only 2 blocks away are being tore down for new development.
In theory it all sounds good, but in the end it’s over kill and simply a sales pitch for a product. But I do enjoy watching learning about new products/designs you are showing.
I think the idea is to build a house that won't need maintenance for as long as possible. Those houses being torn down were not built to last and likely not maintained either. If his house lasts 300 years as is then isn't that a better value than building 6 houses at half the cost over the same period?
How do you preserve your envelope with the penetrations of brick ties?
But doesn't everything fail eventually? So the sealant will fail and won't water get behind there and be trapped? Why not just a rainscreen / airgap behind the brick?
Every chain, no matter how strong, has a weak link. It's about continually identifying the weak link, strengthening it, then determining which other link has now become weakest. For ultimate longevity it's necessary to design in some non-destructive way to get to that final weak link so it can be maintained or replaced as necessary. Another way to put it is to design failure into the system (instead of letting it happen randomly) then providing an economical way to repair it.
@@HistoricHomePlans Exactly......in the goal of attaining foreverness, you actually compound the situation,.....the more expensive layers you pile on, the less likely you will ever be able to repair them economically and the build strays further and further away from economical...…..
You must have 42 different sealants on this job. Are you obsessed?
Hot damn, that will last 100 years. Best way to keep carbon emissions down is keeping houses out of the landfill. Nice work as always Matt!
This house is going to be around til the year 3000 and beyond. Matt Risinger the 10th.
You should check out some masonry details from the Netherlands. We take a lot more precautions when it comes to water damage.
There is almost no rain in Tx. They will get away with all kinds of stuff.
Thanks for this. On a minor note, I see you are using the dreaded phillips screws. They were designed to slip under torgue for assembly lines. I love Robertson, Torx are OK.
So your bricks will be kept in place by gravity? Is there no direct mortar bond under the first row of bricks to the ledge, or did I miss something.
Correct
As is the case no matter what type of flashing is used.
Holy crap, that seems like overkill!
Do it right once and......admire it for the rest of your life. Once you eat the cost of doing things right knowing that you did that way is bliss. How many times have we all done project or a repair and when it was done thought: I would do ___________ different if I had to do it again.
Chances are you'll get the opportunity to do it over sooner than you want to think about.
the sponsors give him that shit for free ...so why not
Yea but out house are built like shit . Cheap as can be of the most money possible
I really like the design of this type of drainage. I wonder how well it works it a climate that has a lot of hot and cold freeze cycles. It is normal for the weather in center Ohio to have heavy rain followed by an over night freeze.
Dave - We've sold this system all over North America and not encountered any issues with freeze thaw cycles.
Let’s get going .
What kind of wireless network will work if you have a solid copper perimeter? I've seen a number of homes with copper cladding with terrible cell and wifi in the house.
Do you think the bottom 1’ would make a difference?
@@buildshow No.
Wish I would be around some 200 years from now when they demo this and inspect it for water damage lol
My only thoughts: 🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑
This is something the builders should do. The bricklayers don't have the patience for installing this crap.
I would think the insulation should go behind the flashing. Any moisture would be in front of the insulation not behind. Am I right?
I disagree. You want to flash back to the Zip sheathing which is the primary water and air barrier.
Matt Risinger but the air gap is in front of the insulation?
@@curtcmiller You are right and it's a problem in the industry. They waterproof on the sheathing, behind the insulation. That's why when we go back a few years later on the job, the exterior insulation has absorbed water, has compressed and has lost much of its insulating properties. But shh don't tell that to contractors lol they don't usually like it.
@@RickGrimes807 You are wrong and it's advice like this that will encourage someone to use bad detailing. That is not to say that you can't put the WRB outside of the insulation in certain scenarios, but in this case you want the WRB against the sheathing, and the insulation outboard of this.
The insulation will not compress from water or anything else once installed. Unless the tree falls on the house or if he drives into his house. The insulation will also not absorb water, as it is not sitting in a puddle. It might get wet, but it will dry. Buildings will always get wet, but the key is to prevent bulk water intrusion, and allow for a high drying potential.
I have always wondered: why the emphasis on a structural wooden frame while also opting for a brick cladding? Using a limestone brick orthe like as your structural walls inside allows you to easily apply brink acnhorage, add in a water proofing layer and insulation and slight goof ups are more easily managed. And you have more "weight" in your structure, which aids in temperature regulation (thermal mass on the inside of your insulated shell increases)
Just curious
Well other tham using concrete blocks for the interior walls!, thats exactly how the majority of homes in the UK are built.
Excellent. Would have saved my house during Hurricane Ike!
Hey, worst case water gets in behind havent you now trapped it in?, by doing a parralel bead of butyl between the flashing and concrete. Multiple short perpendicular strips might allow water a way out
your litterly using the newest and most durable waterproofing in your new build. this freaking house can bitterly be submerge in the ocean once its done lol
Is the mortar going to stick to that at 4:50...
8 inch Nudura icf with steel bar joists for floor and roof welded to steel plates sunk into the walls when they are poured would make the wood framing look like a cardboard box and probably cost about the same.
Matt, Great build, love the details. Just wondering how you will tie the brickwork to the wall to prevent movement away from the structure? Cheers
Why not seal the brick?
The brick ledge should be about 6 or 8 inches lower than the framing. This will solve a lot of water problems and well, but I realize you are working with what you got.
I guess the weak link will be the green coating on the sheathing. Have there been any long term tests on its ability to withstand moisture? Thanks for the video.
Come on man! This is silly!
As a mason, I think it is exaggerated how much water goes through a brick wall. I bet most of the moisture is condensation, and it is negligible. If there is a big problem it's the roofers fault.🤖... been a mason since 1985 and NEVER seen water come out of those weep holes. But I have seen bees nesting inside them.
It's the damn wasps man, they love to build behind the brick and use the drain holes for exits. A pest control guy suggested I cram stainless steel wool into the holes, not tight enough to block water flow but to keep the bugs out. It has been about 4 years now and so far so good, now the wasps just build nests under the eves and its much easier to wack em.
@@Nanan00 Good Advice👍
Have you looked into the ice bear line of ac’s for the desert regions of the us?
Hi Matt
what is your plan for preventing or resolving brick rot? or is this not an issue in the south of America?
Doesn't butylene degrade heavily over time?
I mean... It's the same stuff they use to overmold tools at the factory for rubberized grips..
yes and no. they use butyle tape on cell towers now and in a lot of bathrooms. never seen this silly shit before though using gutter caulk on masonry hurts my brain.
Butyle rubber is what seals every window around the world.. Be it your CAR, or house. It is nearly immune to UV when loaded with carbon(black). Still, there is a reason aluminum flashing covers the butyle rubber. Now if you get Buytle rubber that is not black... yea, problems.
Could you build the concrete sloped outwards, then there could never be any water that pooled on the bottom? And leave some vertical slits open (unmortared) between the bricks to let the water run out
You need it level to put bricks down and they do leave weep holes on the bottom row of bricks
I noticed at 11:25 time mark of this video that your external foam (external to WRB) was not firred out proud of the ZIP sheathing. Not worried about water getting trapped?
i love these videos. you never fail to give me something to think about (or research more, haha).
i see you all have some nice covid-ish PPE on. i don't know if you saw the more recent articles about covid hanging out in eyes (similar sort of infection type as pink eye)? you might consider adding eye protection to the lot, in case someone (like myself) has allergies and is prone to scratching / touching eyes. i've had the same discussion on my jobsite. better safe than sorry.
what a great system...
Very interesting piece on water control in wall structures. Would it be possible for those of us who can not afford the "best possible answer" to get some further info from you or from some specific sources for other less expensive solution? Durable housing is a very desirable thing- but down here in the Middle Class (much diminished of late), many do not have the financial resources to "top of the line" something like this- even with our two income lifestyles, we can't afford this! If I have to decide between the big stove and oven for my wife's kitchen, and water control details I must pay for today in hopes of a benefit 30-40 years from now, I think you can see which way I will have to go.
Build with Dincel, an Australian building system, and it will instantly be 100% waterproof on both sides of the wall.
Dincel looks like an interesting product, but it doesn't appear to be available outside of Australia, New Zealand, or Fiji.
After watching your show for a few years, I can’t help but look at tyvek and standard osb on houses and CRINGE 😂
Do you plan on videos with your interior designer
With this flashing with the wide weep slots will this not be a potential weak point, with no direct mortar bonding between the foundation and the bricks?
That's typical of any installation of brick on a ledge, regardless of the type of through-wall flashing used.
Still see some issues, may be wrong as never seen this product before. On top of this will be a layer of mortar then bricks, and repeated. Bricks and mortar are heavy, that foam stuff to wick away the water must be porus and non structural. What is there to stop the mortar penetrating and blocking this foam? If there is protection then there will be brick joints over this foam that will not be supported, a weak point that may cause cracks. The product itself is copper, a very good conductor of heat, will expand and contract as the weather changes, likely at a very different rate to the bricks, again may cause cracks. If there is another layer that goes over the top to protect the foam and spread the brick load to the load bearing areas between the foam, and gives some sort of bonding to the foundation them to me all is good.
I would have used a liquid DPM, to prevent rising moisture, mortar bonds to this material, with weep holes, small normally hard plastic rectangular tubes, that sit in the mortar under the centre of a brick, so the load is bridged, that allows out any moisture.
But our conditions are very different, so as I said may well be wrong
Hey Matt, what did you cover your foundation with? Is it just stucco?
When do we get to installing brick ties? How long would the nail need to be and how do you keep from puncturing your foam or tape.
The set aside bricks didn't seem to be elevated or substantively shielded from the ground. I hope they lay those back on in a hurry, before unnecessary water absorption.
Otherwise, I really appreciate that he explains his reasons for using such high grade building materials on his personal house. Sometimes it is not worthwhile to settle on what the diy store has on the shelf.
Interesting video. However, I have a question. On April 14, 2020, you released a video of using a stainless steel flashing. Why not use the flashing shown in this video where you used the stainless steel or vice versa?
That flashing had hardie board and not brick on the walls.
Why not just use copper
ALL COPPER.
OR WIDE LEAD
OR ICE AND WATERSHIELD FOR MASONRY
lets get fancy and sharkskin everything twice!
Much simpler, I mean better ways to skin this here cat.
Go all out, just build a stainless steel house
I am not a builder, just into this kind of thing. Would there be any benefit to using zip tape along the white “secure board” to ensure no water got behind this system? Would it also help where the panels butt up to one another on a vertical plane? I realize that this would add cost in both material and labor.
Did you have to do something to widen the brick ledge to accept the additional 2" foam? Or did you frame the exterior walls 2" in from the original location?
Do bugs live behind the brick? Is that a problem?