Thank you for the comment. I'm happy you got some new information from it. That's the great thing about this stuff - there is always something more to learn. Thanks again, and thanks for watching!
Nice work - glad to find you. Just got a Baldor 3PH and a Beloit VFD I like for re-powering mine. No luck finding a V-cone pulley. Had an idea; love your opinion. What if i got a nice (solid) V-belt pulley, machined out the center to be a light press-fit on one of the existing flat belt surfaces on my existing cone pulley, and a couple tack welds to lock it?
Thank you and welcome to my world 😃 Interesting idea you have going. The things that immediately come to mind is: 1. Would you have the clearance to add on to the flat pully? 2. Would there be any balance issues? I think it is a very cool idea and, if you try it, you must document it somehow....I would be VERY interested to see how it turns out! Keep me informed...! Thank you for the great comment, and thanks for watching!
Great video. What year is your heavy 10L? I have a 1968 10L and I’m converting to a variable speed, 4.25 hp treadmill motor. Lots of torque so I worry about slippage also. Was this upper drive something SB made or had someone modified it for V groove pulleys? I’m thinking that I might be able to make my own V pulleys for this conversion. But then I’d have to drive the upper directly with the motor and bypass the central shaft. Can you share some info on how you did the direct drive conversion? Where did you mount the motor? How did you gear it down so it never exceeded the 587 rpm of the central shaft? Where did you connect your direct belt to the upper part? So many questions. I have an under drive so it complicates things. My TM motor spins at 4,500 rpm. The maximum speed of the central shaft is 587 rpm. My motor pulley is 1.22” diameter. So if I put a 9.7” pulley on the central shaft, I can never exceed its maximum rpm. But with a direct drive, I’d have to do something fancy, like using multiple pulleys and belts. Am I being clear? Probably not. But I’d like your thoughts on this. Thanks, Paul
Hey Paul - lots of info there! 😉 My lathe is a Light 10 Model A Precision Bench Lathe (10K), catalog number CL670Y. It was originally delivered Jan. 15, 1951. I wish it was a 10 Heavy, but it servers my purposes so far! The V-Cone (PN AS431NK2) was an option one could buy for that lathe. I'm sure making one is possible, but I'm also certain my lathe has nowhere near the tolerances to be able to make one with enough precision - not to mention my skills 🙃 I built a stand for the lathe out of square tube steel that incorporated the motor mount. I do have some footage of that that I could make a video of and put up if folks might find it helpful or interesting. The belt attaches directly to the spindle from the motor pulley - no intermediate pulleys or gearing. Because the motor is controlled with a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) I can set the RPMs to whatever is appropriate for the job. I got a cheap tachometer that rides on the left end of the spindle for monitoring the actual spindle RPM - go gearing, no pulley system, no math! I would think, even with the under-drive setup, you should be able to run direct from the motor - just need a longer belt. I did this conversion in 2017 and was not really into making videos at the time (sadly), but I do have a lot of pictures of the process. If it is helpful, I could put together a montage video similar to the one I did for the Craftsman Drill Press - ua-cam.com/video/QxR4mUMiWRE/v-deo.html. I hope this info is helpful to you. Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
I don't know the vintage of the donor headstock, but I believe the spindle size was the same for all 10k's. I wish I had been making videos when I restored mine - it was a really fun project, and I highly recommend it!
This is great. I’m refurbishing my 1968 SB 10L. Putting in a 4.25 hp treadmill motor with variable speed, forward and reverse and electric brake. Also a Clough42 electric lead screw for threading. I am using a type J grooved pulley and belt to go from motor to central shaft. But I hadn’t thought of going directly to the spindle itself. I’m wondering whether I could get a head stock with grooved pulleys instead of V, and whether I could cut the grooved belt and glue it together again, like your adjustable pulley. Can you tell me how to remove the head stock and double tumbler? I want to understand how it works and clean it up. Great video. You have a new subscriber. Paul
Interesting project! You should take some pics/video and document your progress. I only know of the flat belt and v-dive pulleys - I'm not familiar with a 'grooved pulley' being made by SB, but I am certainly not the authority. As for headstock removal, there are two bolts that engage clamps under each end of the headstock. You can loosen each and slide the whole headstock off the left end of the bed. Of course, before that the gear assembly and reverse gears need to come off. I just use my phone and take lots of pics while disassembling so I can remember how it all goes back together. Hope that helps. Good luck with the project - thank you for the sub, and thanks for watching!
@@mainejasonThanks. A grooved pulley and belt basically has a bunch of V grooves instead of one. Lots of contact. Look them up on the internet. My treadmill motor came with one. That’s how I learned about them. The problem is that I don’t know if the belts can be cut at an angle and bonded back together. P
Much needed upgrade and with link belts it makes changing belts that much easier. And they are quite silent in operation - link belts that is, compared to regular v belts
Congratulations on the purchase! I used a Marathon Electric microMax 1hp - #56H17F2021A. I paired that with an Automation Direct GS2 VFD #GS2-11P0. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
Your lathe was displaying the same more slip, than grip symptoms as my old 9" South bend lathe. It's understandable considering it has worked double shifts at the Boston Navy Shipyard when bought new, then was bought by a biotechnology company at auction in the 1980's or 1990', and has worked machining prototype parts ever since. I enjoyed your video, and after watching it , I think my little 9" SB deserves a V - Drive belt up grade. Do you recall the source of where you can purchase the V- belt conversion parts for your South Bend ? Thank you again for sharing the details of your project. Take care. Best regards
I'm glad you got some inspiration from the video! These old lathes have seen a lot of work but are still amazing machines given their age. I got the parts from eBay - as I recall, I ended up buying an entire headstock as it was almost the same price as a v-drive pulley was at the time. I have not priced southbend lathe parts on eBay in some time so it may be different now. I can say that, along with the VFD direct drive system, the v-belt drive has been an excellent 'upgrade' to my machine. Best of luck with your conversion, let me know how it turns out for you, and thanks for watching!
Why didn’t you go to a proper flat belt before going through all of this? I bought a 10L heavy (used) in 1983. I replaced the o,d belt with a new version with a, I think nylon outside with leather inside. Much better than a regular leather belt. It’s been running with that belt since then, though when I bought a FOURTEEN I haven’t been using the 10 nearly as much. If the belt is tensioned properly, I didn’t have a problem. Yes, if you overdo the cut depth and speed you will cause it to slip, as it should, but I take 0.25 deep cuts without too much problem. I’ve never had a cutoff problem. I read about people having it but I believe it’s improper technique.
Thank you for the comment. The relatively short answer is: When I was refurbing the lathe back in 2017, I made the decision to drive it with a VFD. I ended up not using the horizontal drive mechanism for a few reasons. 1 - the counter shaft was badly galled and I didn't have a lathe to make a new one. 2 - The available space I had did not allow for the depth of that mechanism. Because I wouldn't have that mechanical advantage of the multiple sized pulleys, I assumed a v-belt would give a bit more "grip". I did try to use a flat belt initially, but the lathe was completely unusable. I confess the purist in me really wanted to preserve the 'natural way' of the vintage South Bend lathe, but the practical part of me just wanted to have a working lathe. Thanks again for the comment and for sharing your experience, and thanks for watching!
It has worked well for me thus far, but I must say I really like the "art" of the original pulley drive system. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
This upgrade has made my lathe experience so much better! What are some upgrades you have done to your lathe that helped you out?
Very nice! I have the same issue with my old Logan. I'll have to see if there's an alternative pulley for mine. Thanks for sharing.
It has been a game changer - hopefully you can find an alternative. Thanks for watching!
Nice job. I restored a 9-c a couple years back but didnt know the brass bar trick. Thanks!
Thank you for the comment. I'm happy you got some new information from it. That's the great thing about this stuff - there is always something more to learn.
Thanks again, and thanks for watching!
Nice work - glad to find you. Just got a Baldor 3PH and a Beloit VFD I like for re-powering mine. No luck finding a V-cone pulley. Had an idea; love your opinion. What if i got a nice (solid) V-belt pulley, machined out the center to be a light press-fit on one of the existing flat belt surfaces on my existing cone pulley, and a couple tack welds to lock it?
Thank you and welcome to my world 😃
Interesting idea you have going. The things that immediately come to mind is:
1. Would you have the clearance to add on to the flat pully?
2. Would there be any balance issues?
I think it is a very cool idea and, if you try it, you must document it somehow....I would be VERY interested to see how it turns out!
Keep me informed...!
Thank you for the great comment, and thanks for watching!
I did this same upgrade to my 9" Southbend about 15 years ago. No more slippage!
Nice! I've been nothin' but pleased with the upgrade. Thanks for watching!
Great video. What year is your heavy 10L? I have a 1968 10L and I’m converting to a variable speed, 4.25 hp treadmill motor. Lots of torque so I worry about slippage also.
Was this upper drive something SB made or had someone modified it for V groove pulleys? I’m thinking that I might be able to make my own V pulleys for this conversion. But then I’d have to drive the upper directly with the motor and bypass the central shaft.
Can you share some info on how you did the direct drive conversion? Where did you mount the motor?
How did you gear it down so it never exceeded the 587 rpm of the central shaft?
Where did you connect your direct belt to the upper part?
So many questions. I have an under drive so it complicates things.
My TM motor spins at 4,500 rpm. The maximum speed of the central shaft is 587 rpm. My motor pulley is 1.22” diameter. So if I put a 9.7” pulley on the central shaft, I can never exceed its maximum rpm.
But with a direct drive, I’d have to do something fancy, like using multiple pulleys and belts. Am I being clear? Probably not. But I’d like your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Paul
Hey Paul - lots of info there! 😉
My lathe is a Light 10 Model A Precision Bench Lathe (10K), catalog number CL670Y. It was originally delivered Jan. 15, 1951. I wish it was a 10 Heavy, but it servers my purposes so far!
The V-Cone (PN AS431NK2) was an option one could buy for that lathe. I'm sure making one is possible, but I'm also certain my lathe has nowhere near the tolerances to be able to make one with enough precision - not to mention my skills 🙃
I built a stand for the lathe out of square tube steel that incorporated the motor mount. I do have some footage of that that I could make a video of and put up if folks might find it helpful or interesting.
The belt attaches directly to the spindle from the motor pulley - no intermediate pulleys or gearing.
Because the motor is controlled with a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) I can set the RPMs to whatever is appropriate for the job. I got a cheap tachometer that rides on the left end of the spindle for monitoring the actual spindle RPM - go gearing, no pulley system, no math!
I would think, even with the under-drive setup, you should be able to run direct from the motor - just need a longer belt.
I did this conversion in 2017 and was not really into making videos at the time (sadly), but I do have a lot of pictures of the process. If it is helpful, I could put together a montage video similar to the one I did for the Craftsman Drill Press - ua-cam.com/video/QxR4mUMiWRE/v-deo.html.
I hope this info is helpful to you.
Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Was the v pulley headstock from a newer 10k? I just acquired a 10k model CL667Z. Contemplating a restore.
I don't know the vintage of the donor headstock, but I believe the spindle size was the same for all 10k's.
I wish I had been making videos when I restored mine - it was a really fun project, and I highly recommend it!
This is great. I’m refurbishing my 1968 SB 10L. Putting in a 4.25 hp treadmill motor with variable speed, forward and reverse and electric brake. Also a Clough42 electric lead screw for threading.
I am using a type J grooved pulley and belt to go from motor to central shaft. But I hadn’t thought of going directly to the spindle itself.
I’m wondering whether I could get a head stock with grooved pulleys instead of V, and whether I could cut the grooved belt and glue it together again, like your adjustable pulley.
Can you tell me how to remove the head stock and double tumbler? I want to understand how it works and clean it up.
Great video. You have a new subscriber.
Paul
Interesting project! You should take some pics/video and document your progress. I only know of the flat belt and v-dive pulleys - I'm not familiar with a 'grooved pulley' being made by SB, but I am certainly not the authority. As for headstock removal, there are two bolts that engage clamps under each end of the headstock. You can loosen each and slide the whole headstock off the left end of the bed. Of course, before that the gear assembly and reverse gears need to come off. I just use my phone and take lots of pics while disassembling so I can remember how it all goes back together.
Hope that helps. Good luck with the project - thank you for the sub, and thanks for watching!
@@mainejasonThanks. A grooved pulley and belt basically has a bunch of V grooves instead of one. Lots of contact. Look them up on the internet. My treadmill motor came with one. That’s how I learned about them. The problem is that I don’t know if the belts can be cut at an angle and bonded back together.
P
Much needed upgrade and with link belts it makes changing belts that much easier. And they are quite silent in operation - link belts that is, compared to regular v belts
For sure. It has been a pleasure to use now. Less slipping ( but still slips before any damage could be done ). Thanks for watching!
@@mainejason yeah! You choose how tight the belt will be around the pulleys but good idea to keep it loose enough to slip and not let anything break
Nicely done.
Thank you, much appreciated! Thanks for watching.
Hey Jason, I just picked up a 10K myself and want to convert it to VFD as well. What motor did you use?
Congratulations on the purchase! I used a Marathon Electric microMax 1hp - #56H17F2021A. I paired that with an Automation Direct GS2 VFD #GS2-11P0. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
Your lathe was displaying the same more slip, than grip symptoms as my old 9" South bend lathe.
It's understandable considering it has worked double shifts at the Boston Navy Shipyard when bought new, then was bought by a biotechnology company at auction in the 1980's or 1990', and has worked machining prototype parts ever since.
I enjoyed your video, and after watching it , I think my little 9" SB deserves a V - Drive belt up grade.
Do you recall the source of where you can purchase the V- belt conversion parts for your South Bend ?
Thank you again for sharing the details of your project.
Take care. Best regards
I'm glad you got some inspiration from the video! These old lathes have seen a lot of work but are still amazing machines given their age.
I got the parts from eBay - as I recall, I ended up buying an entire headstock as it was almost the same price as a v-drive pulley was at the time. I have not priced southbend lathe parts on eBay in some time so it may be different now. I can say that, along with the VFD direct drive system, the v-belt drive has been an excellent 'upgrade' to my machine.
Best of luck with your conversion, let me know how it turns out for you, and thanks for watching!
Why didn’t you go to a proper flat belt before going through all of this? I bought a 10L heavy (used) in 1983. I replaced the o,d belt with a new version with a, I think nylon outside with leather inside. Much better than a regular leather belt. It’s been running with that belt since then, though when I bought a FOURTEEN I haven’t been using the 10 nearly as much. If the belt is tensioned properly, I didn’t have a problem. Yes, if you overdo the cut depth and speed you will cause it to slip, as it should, but I take 0.25 deep cuts without too much problem. I’ve never had a cutoff problem. I read about people having it but I believe it’s improper technique.
Thank you for the comment. The relatively short answer is: When I was refurbing the lathe back in 2017, I made the decision to drive it with a VFD. I ended up not using the horizontal drive mechanism for a few reasons. 1 - the counter shaft was badly galled and I didn't have a lathe to make a new one. 2 - The available space I had did not allow for the depth of that mechanism. Because I wouldn't have that mechanical advantage of the multiple sized pulleys, I assumed a v-belt would give a bit more "grip". I did try to use a flat belt initially, but the lathe was completely unusable.
I confess the purist in me really wanted to preserve the 'natural way' of the vintage South Bend lathe, but the practical part of me just wanted to have a working lathe.
Thanks again for the comment and for sharing your experience, and thanks for watching!
That would have been nice if they built them all like you are.
It has worked well for me thus far, but I must say I really like the "art" of the original pulley drive system. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Aluminium will cut much better if spray a little Diesel on it.
Great tip - thank you for that, and thanks for watching!
The music junked another video 👎👎👎👎💩💩😬
Lol!
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!