Sorry it's me again (by the way thanx to your suggestions, yesterday I've fixed my problem) I need to adjust my valve now and if I understand right, the right mark to do that is a black line after the |F| mark?
Yes, the easiest way to check that you're on the correct stroke, (compression stroke) is to plug the spark plug hole so you can feel if it's forced out. This means both valves are fully closed.
Thanks for the video, this is my first bike and I think the clearances need to be checked. Sorry if this is a silly question.... Should both inlet and exhaust clearances be checked on the compression stroke when the cylinder is TDC? I seem to have confused myself.
Hi on my standard 535 I’m struggling to get access to the rear exhaust cover with the battery box in place. Do you know to remove the battery box as it is very tight against the frame. Many thanks.
@@spidiq8 I did manage to get to the rear exhaust valve without removing the battery box just loosened it and swore a lot. Managed after losing some skin off my knuckles. Still all done now. Thanks for replying.
I notice that the ports on your carburetor rubber intake boots are plugged off (1:12). I've seen a used set of carb rubber intake boots for sale that had one port plugged and one port had a long hose. I assume the long hose runs over to the air injection pump. Does your bike have the air injection pump? It would be located under the chrome side cover on the left side. Do you know if both ports are supposed to have long hoses going over to the air injection pump or should both ports be plugged off as in your video?
Air injection is a US/California emissions thing. UK spec bikes don't have these. Unless your location requires it you can remove the hose and the associated components.
@@spidiq8 - I think you are correct. I was thinking that the air injector pump also cools the exhaust valve as it adds oxygen into the exhaust to more thoroughly burn the hydrocarbons. But, as you say, xv535 bikes in the U.K. don't have the air injector pump nor do the non-California bikes and they seem to run okay. Which begs the question - how the hell did I get a California bike when I live in New York? I wonder... The problem with my bike is that it surges and pops. That air injector pump pumps air into the manifold vacuum port that is used to synchronize the cylinders. If one port is plugged and one port is "open" then that might cause some sort of fuel feed imbalance and cause surging and popping. If there is a problem with the air injection pump not working then wouldn't that be like an open port? I'm going to try disconnecting the hose from the air injector pump to that vacuum port and plugging it up and see if that smooths out my engine.
Does it matter if the front or rear cylinder is done first and for the intake and exhaust too? I've got 3 books 2 say start with the rear cylinder and adjust intake 1st and other book says start with front cylinder and adjust the exhaust 1st than the intake. Thanks
It doesn't matter which one you adjust first but it does matter that you have the right one on compression, the timing marks referred to on the flywheel are TDC for the front cylinder, on an inline engine these marks will refer to cylinder 1, (typically the left most). You can check you're on TDC by placing your thumb or something that will seal the spark plug hole and when it forces your thumb etc out that's the compression stroke.
@@firebird14420 Thanks, that's greatly appreciated and I'm glad it was useful to you. If someone gets something from my videos then I'm happy about it.
@@spidiq8 shoot thanks for answering comments so quickly and I definitely will be getting alot out of all your videos. Thanks again, keep on keeping on!!
If I remember the Haynes spec for UK temperatures was 20-40. I use Halfords motorcycle oil mineral or semi synthetic but typically mineral for older or air cooled engines.
Great video! Just got an 87 535. Has low compression. 99 on front and 39 on rear. Gonna adjust the valves and see what that does.
Need to adjust mine so thanks for the video, will come in very handy.
Great stuff, glad it helped you.
Thanks, very helpful 👍👍
Thanks mate, just the tutorials I needed. Very good run through and explanations, you're bookmarked:-).
Johnny Stewen That's great, glad they were useful.
great video!
Sorry it's me again (by the way thanx to your suggestions, yesterday I've fixed my problem) I need to adjust my valve now and if I understand right, the right mark to do that is a black line after the |F| mark?
Yes, the easiest way to check that you're on the correct stroke, (compression stroke) is to plug the spark plug hole so you can feel if it's forced out. This means both valves are fully closed.
I got confused which mark should be align on which side.
Thanks for the video, this is my first bike and I think the clearances need to be checked. Sorry if this is a silly question.... Should both inlet and exhaust clearances be checked on the compression stroke when the cylinder is TDC? I seem to have confused myself.
Yes, both on compression as both valves are fully closed. Make sure it's on the compression stronger and not exhaust.
Hi on my standard 535 I’m struggling to get access to the rear exhaust cover with the battery box in place. Do you know to remove the battery box as it is very tight against the frame. Many thanks.
Off the top of my head I don't, sorry, I haven't had mine or worked on one since filming these videos.
@@spidiq8 I did manage to get to the rear exhaust valve without removing the battery box just loosened it and swore a lot. Managed after losing some skin off my knuckles. Still all done now. Thanks for replying.
@@paulhartwell8460 Glad you managed it.
I notice that the ports on your carburetor rubber intake boots are plugged off (1:12). I've seen a used set of carb rubber intake boots for sale that had one port plugged and one port had a long hose. I assume the long hose runs over to the air injection pump. Does your bike have the air injection pump? It would be located under the chrome side cover on the left side. Do you know if both ports are supposed to have long hoses going over to the air injection pump or should both ports be plugged off as in your video?
Air injection is a US/California emissions thing. UK spec bikes don't have these. Unless your location requires it you can remove the hose and the associated components.
@@spidiq8 - I think you are correct. I was thinking that the air injector pump also cools the exhaust valve as it adds oxygen into the exhaust to more thoroughly burn the hydrocarbons. But, as you say, xv535 bikes in the U.K. don't have the air injector pump nor do the non-California bikes and they seem to run okay. Which begs the question - how the hell did I get a California bike when I live in New York? I wonder... The problem with my bike is that it surges and pops. That air injector pump pumps air into the manifold vacuum port that is used to synchronize the cylinders. If one port is plugged and one port is "open" then that might cause some sort of fuel feed imbalance and cause surging and popping. If there is a problem with the air injection pump not working then wouldn't that be like an open port? I'm going to try disconnecting the hose from the air injector pump to that vacuum port and plugging it up and see if that smooths out my engine.
@@STBRetired1 Quite possibly yes. I'd recommend just removing and blanking the ports off if not needed where you're at.
how do i get battery box out
What mark should it be at before starting or does it not matter
Before starting doesn't matter. You only need to set it at the correct mark on the compression stroke to check the clearances and set them if needed.
Does it matter if the front or rear cylinder is done first and for the intake and exhaust too? I've got 3 books 2 say start with the rear cylinder and adjust intake 1st and other book says start with front cylinder and adjust the exhaust 1st than the intake. Thanks
It doesn't matter which one you adjust first but it does matter that you have the right one on compression, the timing marks referred to on the flywheel are TDC for the front cylinder, on an inline engine these marks will refer to cylinder 1, (typically the left most).
You can check you're on TDC by placing your thumb or something that will seal the spark plug hole and when it forces your thumb etc out that's the compression stroke.
@@spidiq8 thanks!
Great video btw and thanks for uploading it!! New subscriber as of yesterday :)
@@firebird14420 Thanks, that's greatly appreciated and I'm glad it was useful to you. If someone gets something from my videos then I'm happy about it.
@@spidiq8 shoot thanks for answering comments so quickly and I definitely will be getting alot out of all your videos. Thanks again, keep on keeping on!!
What grade of engine oil do you use?
If I remember the Haynes spec for UK temperatures was 20-40. I use Halfords motorcycle oil mineral or semi synthetic but typically mineral for older or air cooled engines.
😍😍❤❤💋💋