If you continue to drag the tip of the soldering iron until it is fully off of the IC instead of pulling it away from the IC you can prevent bridging from occurring at the last couple pins like it did at 1:22, 2:07, 2:25, 3:14, ect. The trick is to keep moving at a uniform and steady speed until you break contact with the final pin.
that's probably so he doesn't accidently pull the soldering tip into another component next to the IC, pulling out from the last pins is more controlled
@@black.iczelion That was my initial thought as well. I'll probably make some mistakes along my repair and actually seeing how to handle this could save me a lot of trouble 👍
This is so satisfying to watch. I was a welder in the Navy years ago and thought soldering would be too small scale/precision work for me. I think I'll be buying a soldering iron now.
I've hand soldered boards that had SMT parts with pitches as fine as 0.8mm - assembled the first go of prototype boards - all worked properly the first time. One thing that I did, on larger QFPs, was to tack solder the corner pins to keep the part from shifting when soldering the main body. Also works for PLCC components.
Good eye sight is of essence. I'm 61 and can't do anything without glasses nowadays. Looking glasses usually are too weak for me, so I have found a neat solution. A store nearby sells reading glasses for the equivalent of $2. I'm using three glasses that I have taped together, on top of each other. Two +3 and one +2.5, that is around 9. The advantage is cheapness and that the "looking glass" always is directed to the right spot in front of my face. It's almost like having a microscope on the tip of the nose.
You should just get a 10x jeweler’s loupe. That’s what MY 61-year-old eyes would want. Sure, a nice 25X optical comparitor would be nice but the cost...the weight...the space you’d need! 😬😄
@@schautamatic I think you don't know what you're talking about. I own a Bausch and Lomb 10x jeweler loupe, it's fantastic but has very near focal plane distance. You cannot use that to solder unless you want to solder something on the tip of your nose. Lol.
Well this is pretty easy, what he dosent tell is how to pin the ic in place before he start so it wont move when you solder it for those kind of ic, and what kind of tin and flux you use and also the temperature of you iron !! If this is a solder training well you miss too much thing for the beginner... just saying
We use two brands of flux: AMtech, or ErSa, they're pretty good. I usually set iron temperature between 360-380 degree Celsius. You have to place the IC manually, after You paste some flux on the surface. This tip is like a spoon, it has a little arc, or curve. Actually, You don't need this special tip, You can do this with a simple soldering tip. Tin: we use the brand "Stannol" diameter=0,8mm, Sn60Pb40. I hope I could help You.
@@peterporkolab2800 Pin that in the top of the page, for the beginner and peoples who want to learn how to do it well without damaging any parts !! Me i am already a certified tech i just said my opinion.
Круто! Глобализация - это хорошо, все люди, во всем мире, между собой могут делиться своими мыслями и опытом, государственные границы теперь не имеют роли в передаче информации, невероятное 30 лет назад и повседневное сегодня!
Nice job, soldering. Good use of flux. Nice the way you keep it both clean and fluxed. Lotta skill there. I hate watching videos when they use poor soldering skills. You're excellent.
Nice. Getting a little refresher on some soldering techniques for a possible new job. I've done a lot of aerospace work... some pretty challenging and fun stuff.
Nice work! 👍🏼 Back in the 386 Heyday when I worked at Intel, the 25-mil PQFP was being developed. All the pads were printed with solder paste, the PQFP was placed, then IR or vapor phase solder reflow finished the job...sometimes with those annoying solder bridges to deal with. 🤦🏻♂️ I noticed that every time you made your solder pass, the last three leads always bridged and needed rework. I wonder if having a fine-thread solder wick at the end of-and and in-line with-your pass would eliminate that bridging tendency. Wouldn’t need any rework that way! 😀
very nice technique. May I ask the part number for the Weller tip you are using on the iron. Also what temperature do you have it set too? What solder and flux are you using? One thing is for sure. That's decent solder and not the unleaded clumpy rubbish.
Ah. A fellow professional. I appreciate your video; I'm teaching th/smd and couldn't make it in person today for my students, so thank you for demonstrating drag and dapple (for corrections) so they have a reference. I would offer this for the final pins: when you see wetting on the final pin, stop and drag down the leads and cut away at 30 degrees out while rolling your reservoir tip under to suck up the excess solder. It's just a sec to hit it again, ik; it's just those little things that make it more satisfying though, imo. You feel the same way too, right?
Beautiful! It looks you are using some other series of tip than you have in the start where you show the soldeing station. These series of tip has a model where the tip has an imdent for solder. Is the flat type you are using better than this imdent type?
There was a response in another comment where he said he used a tip with an indent. One of my soldering iron tips broke and ended up having a shape like that.lol it was actually perfect like that but it eventually eroded further and lost its little divit shape. I need to buy one that's already shaped like that bc it really was awesome! I can tell ya the reason this soldering job worked so well is mainly thanks to that tip he used.
I always hold my breath while dragging (yeah, pun intended) But I also held my breath while you were doing it. Anyone who had the same experience ? Wonderfull job 👍
It looks like just a flex pen before the soldering and for cleaning the bridge. After he is most likely using isopropyl alcohol to clean the flux to prevent corrosion in the future
The last few pins get bridges, but that is to be expected because you do not want to slide the soldering iron onto the pcb board which would leave an ugly mark. doing it like this, the soldering looks like it was done by machine, very clean.
Are you using Leaded solder or lead free? Looks like lead 63/37 What type of flux. Soldering Temperature? 0.5, 2 or 2oz copper traces? Was PCB pre heated? Is the face of the soldering iron Concave? Nice demo!
My first choice would not be the flat surfaced tip, I would choose a concave tip, either from JBC or PACE (mini-wave), for rework my primary stations are made by PACE and JBC, the concave tips hold more solder volume which ensures you can complete one side of even the largest QFP. I also would use liquid flux to aid in soldering for me in production the PCBs are generally very clean, but the IC packages at times have a noticeable oxidation layer. I have access to production liquid flux of many kinds, RA, RMA, and No Clean which I move to small glass bottles with a small application brush for bench soldering. The liquid brush application work better than the pens because you can apply the volume you need quickly and easily. Pens are handy, but very expensive compared to a small lab grade glass brush application bottle, but obviously you need to have access to production liquid flux which is not always possible. For example, if purchased from Kester, the minimum size is one gallon. In production it is purchased by the barrel and for emergencies a few 5 gallon jugs in case the barrel is contaminated or expired as judged by the production chief engineer. If you use the proper liquid flux and a concave tip, you can easily complete one side of a large QFP with no solder bridges. Also, for rework I generally have the option to use leaded eutectic solders depending on the subassembly. The most difficult liquid flux to get for me seems to be No Clean or Organic, which many times in production requires no end of line hand work to complete the assembly.
It looks like that chip was fitted by a machine, very good. I learned this many years ago but now my sight is not as good although I do have a steady hand most times which is also important.
я бы тоже так умел с такими материалами и паяльником. но у меня советский 60 ваттный паяльник, какие то прутки припоя сантиметровой толщины и камни канифоли вместо жидкого флюса.
My god look at that tip, sooooo clean! BTW how'd you get the Chip/IC to stay in place when you solder it's first legs/pins? Also this belongs to r/hardwareporn.
If you continue to drag the tip of the soldering iron until it is fully off of the IC instead of pulling it away from the IC you can prevent bridging from occurring at the last couple pins like it did at 1:22, 2:07, 2:25, 3:14, ect. The trick is to keep moving at a uniform and steady speed until you break contact with the final pin.
merci pour le conseil
im pretty sure he knows what he is doing since he is a certified Master IPC Trainer
that's probably so he doesn't accidently pull the soldering tip into another component next to the IC, pulling out from the last pins is more controlled
@@black.iczelion That was my initial thought as well. I'll probably make some mistakes along my repair and actually seeing how to handle this could save me a lot of trouble 👍
@@SlideyDK Whether he is a certified Master IPC Trainer or not, He did it wrong. And that is NOT uncommon by Trainers.
This is so satisfying to watch. I was a welder in the Navy years ago and thought soldering would be too small scale/precision work for me. I think I'll be buying a soldering iron now.
Cela fait plaisir de voir quelqu'un qui sait enfin souder des CMS sans abimer les traces, merci , c'est tellement rare un vrai pro
Verdade!
Vérité!
Truth!
is it only me who got relax while watching a professional soldering?
this is such an impressive display of skill with the iron.
Here... now watch this! ua-cam.com/video/8CHrTF6IY60/v-deo.html (guy makes a "hot air gun" with a cigarette lighter)
@@orionred2489 Ouch. torch those components. lol
i don't think there's anything impressive. No skills involved, just the right flux, solder and quality iron.
As one who has done similar hundreds of time, I noticed some areas he could improve.
you're a pro. You corrected so effortlessly
I've hand soldered boards that had SMT parts with pitches as fine as 0.8mm - assembled the first go of prototype boards - all worked properly the first time.
One thing that I did, on larger QFPs, was to tack solder the corner pins to keep the part from shifting when soldering the main body. Also works for PLCC components.
Good eye sight is of essence. I'm 61 and can't do anything without glasses nowadays. Looking glasses usually are too weak for me, so I have found a neat solution.
A store nearby sells reading glasses for the equivalent of $2. I'm using three glasses that I have taped together, on top of each other. Two +3 and one +2.5, that is around 9. The advantage is cheapness and that the "looking glass" always is directed to the right spot in front of my face. It's almost like having a microscope on the tip of the nose.
CyberPunk 2077
-What if we use 100% of our brain?
-Henrik Evertsson: Hold my glasses
You have to working with microscope, IMHO.
You should just get a 10x jeweler’s loupe. That’s what MY 61-year-old eyes would want. Sure, a nice 25X optical comparitor would be nice but the cost...the weight...the space you’d need! 😬😄
@@schautamatic I think you don't know what you're talking about. I own a Bausch and Lomb 10x jeweler loupe, it's fantastic but has very near focal plane distance. You cannot use that to solder unless you want to solder something on the tip of your nose. Lol.
Well this is pretty easy, what he dosent tell is how to pin the ic in place before he start so it wont move when you solder it for those kind of ic, and what kind of tin and flux you use and also the temperature of you iron !! If this is a solder training well you miss too much thing for the beginner... just saying
exactly what i was just thinking.. that's why i decided to read comments to see what other ppl thought of this
We use two brands of flux: AMtech, or ErSa, they're pretty good. I usually set iron temperature between 360-380 degree Celsius. You have to place the IC manually, after You paste some flux on the surface. This tip is like a spoon, it has a little arc, or curve. Actually, You don't need this special tip, You can do this with a simple soldering tip. Tin: we use the brand "Stannol" diameter=0,8mm, Sn60Pb40. I hope I could help You.
@@peterporkolab2800 Pin that in the top of the page, for the beginner and peoples who want to learn how to do it well without damaging any parts !! Me i am already a certified tech i just said my opinion.
@@deadbluesky he cannot pin anything as it's not his video
But there was a good "grunt" at 1:11. That's good for some thing right?
Круто! Глобализация - это хорошо, все люди, во всем мире, между собой могут делиться своими мыслями и опытом, государственные границы теперь не имеют роли в передаче информации, невероятное 30 лет назад и повседневное сегодня!
No unnecessary talking, just action - Nice!!!
Nice job, soldering. Good use of flux. Nice the way you keep it both clean and fluxed. Lotta skill there. I hate watching videos when they use poor soldering skills. You're excellent.
you skipped the step of soldering a few tabs to hold it in place, that could confuse a beginner for sure!
just started soldering and i noticed it right away and thought oh shit good idea, but 2nd to top comment is confused lol
You telepathic communication skills are incredible...
lmao
Very nice!!
Looks like its been done in an oven man..
Perfect.
Nice. Getting a little refresher on some soldering techniques for a possible new job. I've done a lot of aerospace work... some pretty challenging and fun stuff.
"I like to watch drag videos."
"Cool man, what's your favorite drag car?"
"....."
Either are better than the other drag videos
I don't know why but i find this video very relaxing to watch.
wow. so clean and very professional.
I suspect that this isn't your first time ...😆
Bloody good job! 👍
I: "i only need solder this smd now"
SMD Component: "Noo, please... No, no, no!"
Nice work! 👍🏼 Back in the 386 Heyday when I worked at Intel, the 25-mil PQFP was being developed. All the pads were printed with solder paste, the PQFP was placed, then IR or vapor phase solder reflow finished the job...sometimes with those annoying solder bridges to deal with. 🤦🏻♂️ I noticed that every time you made your solder pass, the last three leads always bridged and needed rework. I wonder if having a fine-thread solder wick at the end of-and and in-line with-your pass would eliminate that bridging tendency. Wouldn’t need any rework that way! 😀
Wow! That was really satisfying to watch.
very nice technique. May I ask the part number for the Weller tip you are using on the iron. Also what temperature do you have it set too? What solder and flux are you using? One thing is for sure. That's decent solder and not the unleaded clumpy rubbish.
This is oddly beautiful
Really amazing you did it without using the hot air blower
Great video mate, thanks for taking the time out 👍🥇
This was satisfying to watch
નમસ્તે સર, સરસ ઈલેક્ટ્રીશયન તમારા વીડિયો ખૂબ જ ગમે છે
I always wondered how they did little ICs like this on boards. Wow, so neat. Amazing how the solder just hits the pins precisely!..
Thanks for the video! You just taught me how to solder my first fram chip! Simple lesson
OMG, this is the ASMR that I was looking for
Thank you so much dear. May you live long.
That's a damn fine soldering station you have there!
Ah. A fellow professional. I appreciate your video; I'm teaching th/smd and couldn't make it in person today for my students, so thank you for demonstrating drag and dapple (for corrections) so they have a reference.
I would offer this for the final pins: when you see wetting on the final pin, stop and drag down the leads and cut away at 30 degrees out while rolling your reservoir tip under to suck up the excess solder.
It's just a sec to hit it again, ik; it's just those little things that make it more satisfying though, imo. You feel the same way too, right?
You make it look so easy :). Perfect job
CONGRATULATIONS !!! Great service !!! 1 HUG OF Brasil... THANKS.
Holy crap!! This is nerd PRON!! Wonderfully done!! AMAZING!
Also, the art of vigorously cleaning up no clean flux. Also, the art of filming extreeeeme close up. Very pretty to watch.
Wow, this guy is awesome
Wow... Professional🙌
Clean and beautiful soldering. I'll try ini my next soldering chips . Thanks, Sir.
Amazing skills. Hats off
Nice & clean job
Aptly deligintly...... Great job. 🌹✌️
What flux are you using and what is the type of tip called? What temperature are you using and is that leaded or lead-free solder? Very neat job!
Woow !! surprising, clean work, very Pro, I like it as a soldier, professional Flux, and the tip of the flat soldering iron
Absolutely beautiful solder joints.
Melhor soldador do mundo 👏👏👏
after you solder what do you use on your swab to clean things up
Great and I learne a lot n you keep it up all the best always👍
I use to do this 15 years back for repairing printer logic cards, its very fast and and reliable
Why we need to moisture the IC? Is water on the white brush?
I think that is flux, not water.
Beautiful! It looks you are using some other series of tip than you have in the start where you show the soldeing station. These series of tip has a model where the tip has an imdent for solder. Is the flat type you are using better than this imdent type?
There was a response in another comment where he said he used a tip with an indent. One of my soldering iron tips broke and ended up having a shape like that.lol it was actually perfect like that but it eventually eroded further and lost its little divit shape. I need to buy one that's already shaped like that bc it really was awesome! I can tell ya the reason this soldering job worked so well is mainly thanks to that tip he used.
you are perfect , how we solder and desolder MSD capacitors thanks
Great and I learn a lot keep it up
Beautiful!
I always hold my breath while dragging (yeah, pun intended)
But I also held my breath while you were doing it. Anyone who had the same experience ?
Wonderfull job 👍
Yes, me 2
what does he use to clean? (any link to buy?) thanks.
Pure perfection!!...what is the paper and liquid solution you to clean before soldering?
It looks like just a flex pen before the soldering and for cleaning the bridge. After he is most likely using isopropyl alcohol to clean the flux to prevent corrosion in the future
Beautiful job
What is this stick, which is used to erase the excess flux? I would like to see her in full.
And the gumboil is rosin in alcohol?
What soldering systems do you recommend for soldering training?
Can i know what liquid you use for soldering?
Is there some kind of adhesive used to keep the chip on the board. Why is that not show or was a pick and place machine used.
Which liquid used before soldering. Please tell me
@Luis Radiotecnico ask before ( flux pen ) you give answer after clean with isopropyl alcohol
Great job on the soldering and the video. Now if I just knew what the products and tools you were using I would be able to learn this.
А чем мажете перед пайкой?
It's so satisfying to watch.
🙄 man replaced the machine, and machines r now protesting as they gone job less ✌🏼😂 ... fine, and sensitively accurate dude 😍
Congratulations! Very nice.
what are u using before soldering. can u tell me what is that. tell me name that product name.
I'm a current CIT cert holder, and I'm still learning.
What is liquid Pen you using? What liquid are you using to clean the board with cotton pad?
I am engneer but your my best choice sir...i like you
What is the cleaning fluid on the wiping implement? Acetone?
Isopropyl alcohol most likely.
I'm your 489 Subscriber.... Don't Forget Us....
What is the name of the paste you used?
Because of that paste, the two pins don't stick together,
But we are stuck.
Wow, this is awesome. ❤️
Best..... 😊😊😊😊😊👍👍👍👍👍
this video is satisfying to watch
ooh wow nice,,but sir what are the materials you used,, i see soldering wire,soldering iron, finace i hop,, and ... is that oil??
not oil but flux
The last few pins get bridges, but that is to be expected because you do not want to slide the soldering iron onto the pcb board which would leave an ugly mark. doing it like this, the soldering looks like it was done by machine, very clean.
How do you make the soldering iron stick there? Mine forms as bubbles...
I think is because of the flux.
Are you using Leaded solder or lead free? Looks like lead 63/37
What type of flux.
Soldering Temperature?
0.5, 2 or 2oz copper traces?
Was PCB pre heated?
Is the face of the soldering iron Concave?
Nice demo!
Brilliant, very usefull. Thx!
Really gorgeous. Thanks.
My first choice would not be the flat surfaced tip, I would choose a concave tip, either from JBC or PACE (mini-wave), for rework my primary stations are made by PACE and JBC, the concave tips hold more solder volume which ensures you can complete one side of even the largest QFP.
I also would use liquid flux to aid in soldering for me in production the PCBs are generally very clean, but the IC packages at times have a noticeable oxidation layer. I have access to production liquid flux of many kinds, RA, RMA, and No Clean which I move to small glass bottles with a small application brush for bench soldering. The liquid brush application work better than the pens because you can apply the volume you need quickly and easily. Pens are handy, but very expensive compared to a small lab grade glass brush application bottle, but obviously you need to have access to production liquid flux which is not always possible. For example, if purchased from Kester, the minimum size is one gallon. In production it is purchased by the barrel and for emergencies a few 5 gallon jugs in case the barrel is contaminated or expired as judged by the production chief engineer.
If you use the proper liquid flux and a concave tip, you can easily complete one side of a large QFP with no solder bridges. Also, for rework I generally have the option to use leaded eutectic solders depending on the subassembly. The most difficult liquid flux to get for me seems to be No Clean or Organic, which many times in production requires no end of line hand work to complete the assembly.
Are the pads optimised for manual soldering?
perfect experience
What sort of soldering iron & tip are you using for this?
Which type of liquid tube are you using please tell me the name
It looks like that chip was fitted by a machine, very good. I learned this many years ago but now my sight is not as good although I do have a steady hand most times which is also important.
عطل لوحة ثلاجة بيكو ٢١قدم
You can usb micro scope.
Збс. Могёте, умеете. Пацаны вообще ребята.
Классно, четко!
я бы тоже так умел с такими материалами и паяльником. но у меня советский 60 ваттный паяльник, какие то прутки припоя сантиметровой толщины и камни канифоли вместо жидкого флюса.
@@elsololobo7506 и это тоже =D
IT AMAZES ME. I LOOK FORWARD TO DOING IT TOO. BUT I ONLY HAVE A SIMPLE SOLDER
My god look at that tip, sooooo clean! BTW how'd you get the Chip/IC to stay in place when you solder it's first legs/pins?
Also this belongs to r/hardwareporn.
Looks like couple of corner pins are soldered initially to keep the IC in place, like Paul Moffat does/did.
Very nice Sir.
That is the Weller WX3. Any WX series can take those tools though
weller wx3 is a soldering iron?
perfect tecnique used mister
Good idea 👌👏