I’ve been fighting this issue for the past three years and I’ve heard it ALL, from clean cut polo wearing dipshits! I spent money, they had me spend MORE money! I replaced the entire fuel system (pump/lines/fuel cap/injectors) then went on to coils, and finally a new throttle body!!!! THIS WAS THE FIX!!!!!!! Thank you so much dude!!!! The little wire connector was corroded AF and deformed!!! I used a mini file and some electric greeze and it’s running great now!!!! I got a steak dinner waiting on you!
question- i just got a 3010 Mule- was running alright one day...now won't hold idle and loss of power- will a mule with run with a coil out on one cylinder? thanks
Sorry if I don’t have a video for that. The next one I get into the shop I will definitely do one. Thanks for watching!! Be sure to like and subscribe.
1. It’s NEVER the front coil. I think the rear gets more heat. 2. These coils WILL send a spark that will light the spark tester, but not enough for spark at the plug. One common problem with these Mules is the throttle body getting gummed up because the EPA made Kawasaki cent the crank case breather back into the throttle body, which usually isn’t a bad deal (why not burn it right?) but in their infinite wisdom they put it BEFORE all the sensitive sensors and throttle plate!!! So the sensors can’t do their job, throttle plate will stick. Easy fix. Get a vented catch can and run your crankcase vapors into it! Plug the hole on the TB.
عزيزي انا من زميل لكم من 🇸🇦 ولدي مثل هذي موديل 2010 ومحافظ عليها جدا واستمتع بقيادتها عندي مشكله بعزمها فقط تسير بسرعة 30كم بالساعه والان حصلت لي أن توقفت فجأه وبعدها حاولت التشغيل دون فائده فقط تفتفه وعزم ضعيف جدا وبعد 5 دقائق اشتغلت وكأن لم يكن شي ارجو افادتي عن هذي المشكله شكرا مقدما
My front coil want fire. The rear is working i have replace both coils and spark plugs . No pulse on the black and yellow wire . The yellow wire thats positive, is shared with both coil Dfi light is on steady. My guess is its the ECU. I wish it was this simple.
Hi and thanks for watching, I wouldn’t think it is the ecu sense the rear coil is working. Make sure the black wire has a good clean connection and isn’t broke inside its insulation also check the wires going to the pickup coil. I have seen them break where it goes into the side cover of the flywheel. Also test your stator and voltage regulator. Make sure it’s putting out correctly. Hopes this helps.
I’ve been fighting this issue for the past three years and I’ve heard it ALL, from clean cut polo wearing dipshits! I spent money, they had me spend MORE money! I replaced the entire fuel system (pump/lines/fuel cap/injectors) then went on to coils, and finally a new throttle body!!!!
THIS WAS THE FIX!!!!!!! Thank you so much dude!!!! The little wire connector was corroded AF and deformed!!! I used a mini file and some electric greeze and it’s running great now!!!!
I got a steak dinner waiting on you!
Thanks for the compliment!! We really appreciate it and thanks for watching. Be sure to like and subscribe to our channel.
If it isn’t firing fixing a fuel pump or whatever makes no difference!
UA-cam, being Google, only wants a transaction, not a solution. I believe they do not share the answers on purpose. But, for only $12.99.....
Good video. Thanks. When you tested the back coil, did the tester not light at all?
every few seconds it will do a very faint spark but for the most, it wouldn't do anything. Thanks for watching... Don't forget to like and subscribe..
Have you ever worked on the throttle body on the 4010 trans, nobody shows anything about the process of cleaning them without damaging the sensors
I haven't yet, but I will when I get one in.. Thanks for the info..
I also have questions. I’d love to see a governor adjustment on this engine
question- i just got a 3010 Mule- was running alright one day...now won't hold idle and loss of power- will a mule with run with a coil out on one cylinder? thanks
Yes it will run on one coil but have no power.
Can you tell me how to bleed my brakes on my 4010
Sorry if I don’t have a video for that. The next one I get into the shop I will definitely do one. Thanks for watching!! Be sure to like and subscribe.
1. It’s NEVER the front coil. I think the rear gets more heat.
2. These coils WILL send a spark that will light the spark tester, but not enough for spark at the plug.
One common problem with these Mules is the throttle body getting gummed up because the EPA made Kawasaki cent the crank case breather back into the throttle body, which usually isn’t a bad deal (why not burn it right?) but in their infinite wisdom they put it BEFORE all the sensitive sensors and throttle plate!!! So the sensors can’t do their job, throttle plate will stick.
Easy fix. Get a vented catch can and run your crankcase vapors into it! Plug the hole on the TB.
Thanks for the info!!!
Seems to allway be the back because of engine heat maybe
عزيزي
انا من زميل لكم من 🇸🇦
ولدي مثل هذي موديل 2010
ومحافظ عليها جدا واستمتع بقيادتها
عندي مشكله بعزمها فقط تسير بسرعة 30كم بالساعه
والان حصلت لي أن توقفت فجأه
وبعدها حاولت التشغيل دون فائده فقط تفتفه وعزم ضعيف جدا
وبعد 5 دقائق
اشتغلت وكأن لم يكن شي
ارجو افادتي
عن هذي المشكله
شكرا مقدما
My front coil want fire. The rear is working i have replace both coils and spark plugs . No pulse on the black and yellow wire . The yellow wire thats positive, is shared with both coil
Dfi light is on steady. My guess is its the ECU. I wish it was this simple.
Hi and thanks for watching, I wouldn’t think it is the ecu sense the rear coil is working. Make sure the black wire has a good clean connection and isn’t broke inside its insulation also check the wires going to the pickup coil. I have seen them break where it goes into the side cover of the flywheel. Also test your stator and voltage regulator. Make sure it’s putting out correctly. Hopes this helps.