Hands-down, one of the best videos everyone has the same repetitive video on how to change the flat apparently 99.9% of everybody who does the same repetitive video doesn’t have a problem with their screws because God knows that I have and I know about five other friends of mine who havetwo and other scooters and we’ve all ran into the same problem. Heating the screw up with a torch has been the best yet. Thank you so much for for taking the time to make this video.
The first video I learned from the Spanish dude using a blowtorch I was using a heat gun and I do have a broken screw in one of them which I’ve never removed but now that I have watched your video, I got a little small project.. so thank you very much, sir, for taking the time
When this happened to me I used a screw extractor from Home Depot. Done in under a minute. No drilling, no torch and above all no bit damage to the side of my motor. There wasn’t a mention of the screw being seized but in that case this method would probably be necessary.
Hey, so I have definitely stripped plenty of the motor’s holes out completely where the screw just spun in there. It won’t tighten down, which I’m sure is the problem you are having. So the screw that is in the motor right now is probably a 10-32. If it spins in there but maybe just grabs you can try to use some of the blue Lock-Tite on it which is not permanent. Do not use red Lock-Tite because that is permanent. This is a temporary fix though and if you want to fix it permanently you’ll need to bore the hole out to a bigger diameter. What worked for me was buying a 1/4-20 tap at Home Depot. You can buy the 1/4-20 screws there as well. 1/4-20 size is the biggest you can bore the hole though so do not go any bigger than that. You can also use a 12-28 tap and screws and it will probably work just fine as well. The motor casing is made of aluminum so the tap will turn in the hole like a hot knife through butter. Aluminum is a soft metal. You want to turn the tap 1/4 of a turn the back it out so you don’t bunch the scraped off material back onto the casing. Backing it out will bring the exces material out the back of the hole. So just 1/4 turns all the way until you get completely through the casing and the entire hole has been tapped. Next you are going to need to drill out the hub ring to accommodate the larger screw. Find a drill bit that is larger than the diameter of the screw body, but smaller than the head so the lip of the head will catch on it. Drill it completely out and run the drill through several times so it slides in and out really easily. Do not use the tap on the hub ring. What will happen is when you go to tighten all the other wheel screws down, the threads on that hole will be stuck on the one oversize 14/-20 screw and as the pressure on that one screw hole gets more and more as you tight the rest down it will snap your hub ring. The hole in the hub ring has to be larger than the diameter of your screw or else your hub ring will tighten down unevenly and it will snap. Drill it out with a bit that is a size larger than the screw. There might be a couple of minor modifications you will have to make to the motor casing and the hub ring for that oversize screw as well. If when you are tightening it down after it is bored out and it scrapes on the motor casing or the head of the screw doesn’t tighten all the way flat against the hub ring , you will need to take a Dremel and gently scrape away some of the material around the hole until you can get the screw to tighten all the way down without hitting anything else. It’s very easy. Just remove some of the material around the hole and keep trying the screw until it tightens the hub ring down like the rest of them. The same goes with the motor casing. If the screw scrapes the casing don’t be afraid to remove a bit of material from the casing so the screw can slide by it without contacting. One of the consequences of tapping out that hole is you will end up having to use two different size Allan keys to remove the wheel. If you can put up with that then no big deal. However, I went ahead and tapped out all 6 of the holes the same so that I could use the same tool to remove all the screws. This is your scooter so if you need to modify it then do what you need to do. I stripped out more than one of those screw holes so it was just best to tap them all out and start fresh. I have not had a problem with the wheel since I did that modification. I hope this helps.
friend, please help me, the threads of the engine cover that hold the two parts of the ring have worn out and do not tighten, what should I do? I'm desperate
I hope you were able to solve your issue. I’m sorry I didn’t see this earlier. The size screw you probably have in your motor is a 10-32. If you strip out that hole you will need to buy a tap and die set to bore the hole out to a bigger size. I bought a 1/4-20 tap for this project and bored the hole out to a larger size. You will need to modify the hub ring as well. Do not use the tap on the hub ring. Find a drill bit that is one size larger than the 1/4-20 screw you are using so the screw slides though it easily. If you use the tap on the hub ring then it will tighten unevenly as you attempt to put the wheel back together and the hub ring will snap. Drill it out completely so the screw can just be dropped into the hole but catches on the screw head. If the screw scrapes the motor casing after you have tapped out that hole, then use a Dremel and remove some of the material around the hole so the screw will tighten down flat on the hub ring without contacting any other survface. You may also need to scrape off some material from the side of the motor casing so the screw can be tightened and not contact the casing as well. If you do not feel like getting into it for this much work then you can try to use blue Lock-Tite on the screw and gently tighten it to the pint that it is the tightest and wait for it to harden. This will only work if the screw still has a little bit of grab in the hole. If it spins freely then you’ll need to tap it out.
Could you please Brian show me how to open my motor so i could fix it pls. My motor is getting stuck now after I push the throttle then let go. Please help me fix it.
Brian hi. Congrats on the acquisition of Boosted Boards. It was very crucial to all of us fans for their legacy to be preserved. I have a Boosted Dual Plus (purchased in Fall 2015). Those models in particular (Single, Dual and Dual+) were Boosted's first models. They also had the lithium battery packs built in. I dont know why Boosted did this. My battery capacity is next to none. The main reason for the low capacity is because I overall haven't used the board much. It has stayed at home for a long time. However, when I used the board, it was to get me to work from the train station on some occasions. Overall, I never used the board much. I may need a revival of the lithium cells which I am hoping. At worst, I may ultimately need a replacement. Other than this, the board is trouble free. Never had any issues at all. Plus I have taken great care of the board. After the first models, every newer model had removable battery packs. I wish Boosted made all models with removable battery packs. Do you think you can perform battery service??? Hope to hear from you. Good luck with Boosted. They are a great company.
Wish I had seen this 6 months ago. I had a similar thing happen on my last screw on my thunder but my screw broke off in my motor and I couldn't grab it. Its still in there I had to replace the whole engine bc I dont know anyone to drill it out properly atm and it's to low in it to do myself ughh. These being to tight is a common issue bc the thread lock they use to assemble them is horrible. Also the bolts are not cheap or easy to find either bc of the size and thread.
@@FairyWintahHD yeah its pretty easy but do yourself a favor and HEAT those screws!!. They strip and snap easy due to all that crazy loctite they use on them. Also make sure you clean them and put new loctite on the screws when you put them back. Minimotorsusa has a video showing how to remove the wheels just find it on youtube and follow it that helps. 😀
The problem is they put them on so damn tight from the factory. Not necessary! I've had my ultra for over a year now and when I first had to remove the split rims a couple of the screwheads ended up with some play in them. I didn't mess around and went right to Lowe's and bought all new ones.👍✌
@@lastmilesf5795 if you don't mind I want to ask you a question. I have ran CST streets for the ultra off road and even PMT juniors not the super soft compound and now I'm running the tubeless off road. Flats are killing me with the street tires. That's why I'm running in the CST tubeless( which we all know tubeless tires are better) offroads now so I can have a way better chance then getting a flat going through the intersection on the bike lane where all the crap is. As soon as the off roads wear down I'm going to get the CST streets for the Thunder and run them on it. I was just curious what are your thoughts and is there a better all terrain or Street tubeless tire out there that maybe even you sell?👍✌
Wow! Great video! Perfect timing. I have an overly lock-tighted rim screw on my brand new Apollo City (Zero 9) scooter's rear hub motor. I ended up striping it trying to remove it so that I could service my first flat tire. I had the same thing happen. 5 screws came out easy. But one would not budge for nothing. I even tried to use a stripped screw removal tool. Which I see does no good if the screw is cemented in place. Just made matters worse. Apollo Scooters tells me the issue is not covered in warranty, so it looks like I'm on my own. Your method for removing the screw looks like it will definitely work. I will give it a try and comment back if it does.
@@laurenbonneau3216 Yeah, I going to try and sell it. The scooter is too high maintenance for me. It spends more time off the road awaiting parts than on the road. I ended up purchasing a new motor from Apollo because there was just no way to get that screw out easily. (Of course that was out of pocket). Very poor support from Apollo with what should have been a warranty fix certainly didn't help. Since that time, I have had more than a dozen more flats. (Thankfully the new motor was easier to change tires and tubes.) But it was still an annoyance getting flats as I use the scooter to go to work. Not really for pleasure. A 6 mile run to the train station. Breaking down half way there is no fun. And that happened numerous times. And now the battery failed during this past spring. Again stranding me halfway to work a few times. It no longer charges to full capacity, even though the charger says other wise. Range is down under half a mile now. Apollo wants $350 for a new battery. Pretty bad for a scooter less than a year and a half old and less than 1000 miles on it. My trusty 6 year old Glion Dolly is still going strong on the original battery and I have far more mileage on it. It was to become my backup scooter when I got the Apollo. It is back to being my primary scooter. So yeah, I will try to sell it. I am looking at the new Glion Dolly XL due out in the fall. As Glion has proven to be far more reliable.
@@DocMicrowave I totally understand what you’re going through. I’ve suffered with many many flat tires. I lost count after the 30th one. Seemed like every single day I would go out to turn the scooter on I was changing the tube as well. I bought like 10 brand new tubes and I would keep spares in my backpack with all my tools so I didn’t have to fix the flat tire on the road, I could just throw a new tube in it and fix the flat later at home. All flat tires were in the rear too. Not one in the front. But after changing my tires out I switched the whole setup I had on the rear to the front and front to the rear. From then on my front tire started going flat and my rear has stayed full since I changed it. So I came to the conclusion that sometimes the specific tire or tires you are using are more conducive to flats than others. This may be due to the high speed causing friction or maybe a sharp little burr on the inside of your hub ring, or cheap rubber in the tube that causes it to burst at the seem or crack in other places. A cracked hub ring can cause flat tires as well. It’s good to have extra everything with you. But later I bought a new scooter of the same brand (Flashwalk) and it was sized up from the 10” wheel to 11” and my flat tire issue has been resolved. The tires seem sturdier and more resilient. Don’t give up hope on Apollos if you like them. I personally think Dualtron has the niche of the American market and parts are easy to come by. Unfortunately, the electric scooter business is not completely established and big free yet. We’re still in the infancy. So there will be problems that have to be addressed. Warranty’s are not for very long because most scooters will almost certainly have their issues. I have gotten pretty good at maintenance on the scooter myself and I have bought a welder and other things so I can solve just about any problem at home now. But the single most advantageous thing about buying from Dualtron is that you do not have to wait for parts from China.
I took one of my screws to the hardware store and they had a chart you could fit your threads into for the M sizing. Then I just picked the same length from the tray. Was super ez👍🏻
Yup, same thing happened to me with my dualtron ultra 2. Torched it for about a minute. But I used the wrench method instead. On the second motor, I used the torch first and didn’t have a problem. Torch is key. Heat gun doesn’t do shit in this case.
Ok I have the same issue with my nanrobot d6+ one of the motor screws is stripped and can't get it out. I've tried easy out drill bits, jb weld epoxy, and the dremel to make a flat head slit. Can't we just take the tire off the old fashion way off the hub? Like use some car tire levers and just take it off that way? Taking off the screws can't be the only way to take off the wheel. With how tight the area is n how common it is to strip a screw this can't be the only way!! That would be the worst design ever! So has anyone tried taking the tire off the hub like you would do on a bike tire or motorcycle tire?
The problem is the valve is a 90 degree angle and the valve won’t fit between the the rim and the motor that’s why we need to separate the rear rim the front you could just remove the tire I have cheap tire irons from eBay and it was extremely easy to pop the tire off
I tried in one of mine didn’t work I have 5 to drill out today I got some very good bits tho so I’m not stressing to much Apollo Explore is the scooter I own
Hey, i have a problem, i cant seem to drill the bolt out, ive only gotten half of the head off, so its like a bowl looking head, but it doesnt seem to drill further, ive tried different size bits but no luck, can you help @Last Mile SF
I just did this today and I used a pair of pliers to kind of snap it off. It took awhile, and a bunch of different sizes of drill bits, but it got it done!
Just another suggestion if those don’t work, use a hammer and a chisel and just slowly strike it in a counterclockwise direction and you should be able to work it out of there slowly. I know you posted this a while ago but maybe if anybody else is having the same problem maybe this will help.
Finally had to replace my tires on my Thunder. This looks like my future...replaced the rear tire, rim included. But I gotta drill out TWO of these bolts that stripped. The thread lock used at the factory is OVER engineering, to be kind. But i'm not kind. It's a stupid application IMO.
Yeah, it some kind to lock-tight compound. I currently have the exact same problem on my Apollo City. One screw won't budge. Ended up stripping it. I will try this method for removal to see if I can get it out.
Hands-down, one of the best videos everyone has the same repetitive video on how to change the flat apparently 99.9% of everybody who does the same repetitive video doesn’t have a problem with their screws because God knows that I have and I know about five other friends of mine who havetwo and other scooters and we’ve all ran into the same problem. Heating the screw up with a torch has been the best yet. Thank you so much for for taking the time to make this video.
The first video I learned from the Spanish dude using a blowtorch I was using a heat gun and I do have a broken screw in one of them which I’ve never removed but now that I have watched your video, I got a little small project.. so thank you very much, sir, for taking the time
When this happened to me I used a screw extractor from Home Depot. Done in under a minute. No drilling, no torch and above all no bit damage to the side of my motor. There wasn’t a mention of the screw being seized but in that case this method would probably be necessary.
Good afternoon, you know how I can open this type of motor. I need to change the cables that are connected to the motor, thanks
You know what you're doing dude. Great job
But bye bye motor
What if you stripped the screw hole?
Hey, so I have definitely stripped plenty of the motor’s holes out completely where the screw just spun in there. It won’t tighten down, which I’m sure is the problem you are having. So the screw that is in the motor right now is probably a 10-32. If it spins in there but maybe just grabs you can try to use some of the blue Lock-Tite on it which is not permanent. Do not use red Lock-Tite because that is permanent. This is a temporary fix though and if you want to fix it permanently you’ll need to bore the hole out to a bigger diameter.
What worked for me was buying a 1/4-20 tap at Home Depot. You can buy the 1/4-20 screws there as well. 1/4-20 size is the biggest you can bore the hole though so do not go any bigger than that. You can also use a 12-28 tap and screws and it will probably work just fine as well.
The motor casing is made of aluminum so the tap will turn in the hole like a hot knife through butter. Aluminum is a soft metal. You want to turn the tap 1/4 of a turn the back it out so you don’t bunch the scraped off material back onto the casing. Backing it out will bring the exces material out the back of the hole. So just 1/4 turns all the way until you get completely through the casing and the entire hole has been tapped. Next you are going to need to drill out the hub ring to accommodate the larger screw.
Find a drill bit that is larger than the diameter of the screw body, but smaller than the head so the lip of the head will catch on it. Drill it completely out and run the drill through several times so it slides in and out really easily. Do not use the tap on the hub ring. What will happen is when you go to tighten all the other wheel screws down, the threads on that hole will be stuck on the one oversize 14/-20 screw and as the pressure on that one screw hole gets more and more as you tight the rest down it will snap your hub ring. The hole in the hub ring has to be larger than the diameter of your screw or else your hub ring will tighten down unevenly and it will snap. Drill it out with a bit that is a size larger than the screw.
There might be a couple of minor modifications you will have to make to the motor casing and the hub ring for that oversize screw as well. If when you are tightening it down after it is bored out and it scrapes on the motor casing or the head of the screw doesn’t tighten all the way flat against the hub ring , you will need to take a Dremel and gently scrape away some of the material around the hole until you can get the screw to tighten all the way down without hitting anything else. It’s very easy. Just remove some of the material around the hole and keep trying the screw until it tightens the hub ring down like the rest of them. The same goes with the motor casing. If the screw scrapes the casing don’t be afraid to remove a bit of material from the casing so the screw can slide by it without contacting.
One of the consequences of tapping out that hole is you will end up having to use two different size Allan keys to remove the wheel. If you can put up with that then no big deal. However, I went ahead and tapped out all 6 of the holes the same so that I could use the same tool to remove all the screws. This is your scooter so if you need to modify it then do what you need to do. I stripped out more than one of those screw holes so it was just best to tap them all out and start fresh. I have not had a problem with the wheel since I did that modification. I hope this helps.
Absolutely world class. Great video! More tutorials please! :)
which drill bit did you use to split the screw? 6 - 7 - 8?
Minimotors sent me this video after I had this exact thing happen to me, this gives me hope.
Yes, more Dualtron tutorials please
On your shelves you have a wheel with blue tire on,what size is it?
friend, please help me, the threads of the engine cover that hold the two parts of the ring have worn out and do not tighten, what should I do? I'm desperate
I hope you were able to solve your issue. I’m sorry I didn’t see this earlier. The size screw you probably have in your motor is a 10-32. If you strip out that hole you will need to buy a tap and die set to bore the hole out to a bigger size. I bought a 1/4-20 tap for this project and bored the hole out to a larger size. You will need to modify the hub ring as well. Do not use the tap on the hub ring. Find a drill bit that is one size larger than the 1/4-20 screw you are using so the screw slides though it easily. If you use the tap on the hub ring then it will tighten unevenly as you attempt to put the wheel back together and the hub ring will snap. Drill it out completely so the screw can just be dropped into the hole but catches on the screw head. If the screw scrapes the motor casing after you have tapped out that hole, then use a Dremel and remove some of the material around the hole so the screw will tighten down flat on the hub ring without contacting any other survface. You may also need to scrape off some material from the side of the motor casing so the screw can be tightened and not contact the casing as well.
If you do not feel like getting into it for this much work then you can try to use blue Lock-Tite on the screw and gently tighten it to the pint that it is the tightest and wait for it to harden. This will only work if the screw still has a little bit of grab in the hole. If it spins freely then you’ll need to tap it out.
Left turning drill bits, and a bit of heat as they may have used Locktite at the factory.
Could you please Brian show me how to open my motor so i could fix it pls. My motor is getting stuck now after I push the throttle then let go. Please help me fix it.
Amazing video! I followed you’re advice and it worked but in the process I ended up grinding a bit of the motor. Do you think it is still ok?
Should be fine they have a fairly strong case
nice video,, in your opinion wich scooter is better,,,, speedway 5 or dualtron eagle pro? thanks for the info...!
What do you do if the screw head doesn't snap of?
The threads are only in the motor so as long as the heads gone you can pull it off
Brian hi.
Congrats on the acquisition of Boosted Boards. It was very crucial to all of us fans for their legacy to be preserved.
I have a Boosted Dual Plus
(purchased in Fall 2015). Those models in particular (Single, Dual and Dual+) were Boosted's first models.
They also had the lithium battery packs built in. I dont know why Boosted did this. My battery capacity is next to none.
The main reason for the low capacity is because I overall haven't used the board much. It has stayed at home for a long time.
However, when I used the board, it was to get me to work from the train station on some occasions. Overall, I never used the board much.
I may need a revival of the lithium cells which I am hoping. At worst, I may ultimately need a replacement.
Other than this, the board is trouble free. Never had any issues at all. Plus I have taken great care of the board.
After the first models, every newer model had removable battery packs. I wish Boosted made all models with removable battery packs.
Do you think you can perform battery service???
Hope to hear from you.
Good luck with Boosted.
They are a great company.
I had to heat up each bolt to get all of mine out. I ended up breaking off 1 head doing both tires.
Your a legend
You look like John from Minimotors USA.
Wish I had seen this 6 months ago. I had a similar thing happen on my last screw on my thunder but my screw broke off in my motor and I couldn't grab it. Its still in there I had to replace the whole engine bc I dont know anyone to drill it out properly atm and it's to low in it to do myself ughh. These being to tight is a common issue bc the thread lock they use to assemble them is horrible. Also the bolts are not cheap or easy to find either bc of the size and thread.
Is replacing the motor easy to do by yourself? I have to do it most likely.. 🤣
@@FairyWintahHD yeah its pretty easy but do yourself a favor and HEAT those screws!!. They strip and snap easy due to all that crazy loctite they use on them. Also make sure you clean them and put new loctite on the screws when you put them back. Minimotorsusa has a video showing how to remove the wheels just find it on youtube and follow it that helps. 😀
The problem is they put them on so damn tight from the factory. Not necessary! I've had my ultra for over a year now and when I first had to remove the split rims a couple of the screwheads ended up with some play in them. I didn't mess around and went right to Lowe's and bought all new ones.👍✌
Yup agree 100%
@@lastmilesf5795 if you don't mind I want to ask you a question. I have ran CST streets for the ultra off road and even PMT juniors not the super soft compound and now I'm running the tubeless off road. Flats are killing me with the street tires. That's why I'm running in the CST tubeless( which we all know tubeless tires are better) offroads now so I can have a way better chance then getting a flat going through the intersection on the bike lane where all the crap is. As soon as the off roads wear down I'm going to get the CST streets for the Thunder and run them on it. I was just curious what are your thoughts and is there a better all terrain or Street tubeless tire out there that maybe even you sell?👍✌
What are the size of the rim screws? And its a m4 thread?
Wow! Great video! Perfect timing.
I have an overly lock-tighted rim screw on my brand new Apollo City (Zero 9) scooter's rear hub motor.
I ended up striping it trying to remove it so that I could service my first flat tire.
I had the same thing happen. 5 screws came out easy. But one would not budge for nothing. I even tried to use a stripped screw removal tool. Which I see does no good if the screw is cemented in place. Just made matters worse.
Apollo Scooters tells me the issue is not covered in warranty, so it looks like I'm on my own.
Your method for removing the screw looks like it will definitely work. I will give it a try and comment back if it does.
Did it work?
@@jaredsur13 It did not after a couple tries. I may need better drill bits. Ended up striking a deal with Apollo and purchasing a new motor.
@@DocMicrowave I have the same scooter. Did you find a solution?
@@laurenbonneau3216 Yeah, I going to try and sell it. The scooter is too high maintenance for me.
It spends more time off the road awaiting parts than on the road.
I ended up purchasing a new motor from Apollo because there was just no way to get that screw out easily. (Of course that was out of pocket). Very poor support from Apollo with what should have been a warranty fix certainly didn't help.
Since that time, I have had more than a dozen more flats. (Thankfully the new motor was easier to change tires and tubes.) But it was still an annoyance getting flats as I use the scooter to go to work. Not really for pleasure. A 6 mile run to the train station. Breaking down half way there is no fun. And that happened numerous times.
And now the battery failed during this past spring. Again stranding me halfway to work a few times. It no longer charges to full capacity, even though the charger says other wise. Range is down under half a mile now. Apollo wants $350 for a new battery. Pretty bad for a scooter less than a year and a half old and less than 1000 miles on it.
My trusty 6 year old Glion Dolly is still going strong on the original battery and I have far more mileage on it. It was to become my backup scooter when I got the Apollo. It is back to being my primary scooter.
So yeah, I will try to sell it. I am looking at the new Glion Dolly XL due out in the fall. As Glion has proven to be far more reliable.
@@DocMicrowave I totally understand what you’re going through. I’ve suffered with many many flat tires. I lost count after the 30th one. Seemed like every single day I would go out to turn the scooter on I was changing the tube as well. I bought like 10 brand new tubes and I would keep spares in my backpack with all my tools so I didn’t have to fix the flat tire on the road, I could just throw a new tube in it and fix the flat later at home. All flat tires were in the rear too. Not one in the front. But after changing my tires out I switched the whole setup I had on the rear to the front and front to the rear. From then on my front tire started going flat and my rear has stayed full since I changed it. So I came to the conclusion that sometimes the specific tire or tires you are using are more conducive to flats than others. This may be due to the high speed causing friction or maybe a sharp little burr on the inside of your hub ring, or cheap rubber in the tube that causes it to burst at the seem or crack in other places. A cracked hub ring can cause flat tires as well. It’s good to have extra everything with you.
But later I bought a new scooter of the same brand (Flashwalk) and it was sized up from the 10” wheel to 11” and my flat tire issue has been resolved. The tires seem sturdier and more resilient. Don’t give up hope on Apollos if you like them. I personally think Dualtron has the niche of the American market and parts are easy to come by. Unfortunately, the electric scooter business is not completely established and big free yet. We’re still in the infancy. So there will be problems that have to be addressed. Warranty’s are not for very long because most scooters will almost certainly have their issues. I have gotten pretty good at maintenance on the scooter myself and I have bought a welder and other things so I can solve just about any problem at home now. But the single most advantageous thing about buying from Dualtron is that you do not have to wait for parts from China.
Could anyone tell me what are the mm of the rim screws? Need to buy new ones, also is it m4 thread? Thanks in advance
I took one of my screws to the hardware store and they had a chart you could fit your threads into for the M sizing. Then I just picked the same length from the tray. Was super ez👍🏻
10-32.
Yup, same thing happened to me with my dualtron ultra 2. Torched it for about a minute. But I used the wrench method instead. On the second motor, I used the torch first and didn’t have a problem. Torch is key. Heat gun doesn’t do shit in this case.
Ok I have the same issue with my nanrobot d6+ one of the motor screws is stripped and can't get it out. I've tried easy out drill bits, jb weld epoxy, and the dremel to make a flat head slit. Can't we just take the tire off the old fashion way off the hub? Like use some car tire levers and just take it off that way? Taking off the screws can't be the only way to take off the wheel. With how tight the area is n how common it is to strip a screw this can't be the only way!! That would be the worst design ever! So has anyone tried taking the tire off the hub like you would do on a bike tire or motorcycle tire?
The problem is the valve is a 90 degree angle and the valve won’t fit between the the rim and the motor that’s why we need to separate the rear rim the front you could just remove the tire I have cheap tire irons from eBay and it was extremely easy to pop the tire off
Why not use Torx on that damaged allen head
I tried in one of mine didn’t work I have 5 to drill out today I got some very good bits tho so I’m not stressing to much Apollo Explore is the scooter I own
Thank you for the Idea much helpful
Hey, i have a problem, i cant seem to drill the bolt out, ive only gotten half of the head off, so its like a bowl looking head, but it doesnt seem to drill further, ive tried different size bits but no luck, can you help @Last Mile SF
I just did this today and I used a pair of pliers to kind of snap it off. It took awhile, and a bunch of different sizes of drill bits, but it got it done!
Just another suggestion if those don’t work, use a hammer and a chisel and just slowly strike it in a counterclockwise direction and you should be able to work it out of there slowly. I know you posted this a while ago but maybe if anybody else is having the same problem maybe this will help.
Finally had to replace my tires on my Thunder.
This looks like my future...replaced the rear tire, rim included. But I gotta drill out TWO of these bolts that stripped.
The thread lock used at the factory is OVER engineering, to be kind.
But i'm not kind. It's a stupid application IMO.
lookes like it was glued in
Yeah, it some kind to lock-tight compound. I currently have the exact same problem on my Apollo City. One screw won't budge. Ended up stripping it. I will try this method for removal to see if I can get it out.
too much heat would make the motor magnets lose its magnetic properties.
I need to do this just to get he stupid screws out of the rotor.
Just use grips
daaamn!! 🔥
ended up having to thread it to 6mm
I tapped all the holes out to 1/4-20 and that worked great.
Глупый мастер 👎