Turning a 3D Printed THE THING Bust into Concrete
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- 3D Printed on the formbot trex2+ in P.L.A and sliced in cura. I then made a latex mold followed by a plaster bandage mother mold and then a fiberglass mold for extra straight and then casted both parts in concrete and then painted with acrylic paints.
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this giveaway is patreon exclusive
For a chance to win one of these models all's you have to do is join my patreon and your name will be entered into the draw winners will be drawn 3/6/2020.
Patreon link
/ filamentforge
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I would like to thank Tomquach_3d_stuff for sharing this amazing model.
Instagram
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Myminifactory profile
www.myminifact...
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Filament forge
/ filament_forge
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Myminifactory STL FILE LINK
www.myminifact...
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3D PRINTING SUPPLYS
www.3djake.com...
www.3djake.com...
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Materials used
Cement
rover.ebay.com/...
sand
rover.ebay.com/...
latex rubber
rover.ebay.com/...
liquitex black primer
rover.ebay.com/...
EVA FOAM
rover.ebay.com/...
holy smokes this is an awesome project!
Thanks I appreciate it 🤘🤘
MPC3000• this was amazing thanks for posting
7:09 'It didn't take too long about 5 days altogether" that's the spirit :)
Haha we makers have great patience sometimes if a 3d print isn't a week-long I'm disappointed 😂😂
your videos are very informative and very professional, I really appreciate that you dont spend 5 minutes talking nonsense and you go straight to the point. Your explanations and very clear and your tone of voice is spot on. Keep it up, your hard work is apreciated
Thank you I really appreciate it I find it hard to talk on camera because I'm basically talking to my self and it doesn't feel right to me so that's why I don't talk too much nonsense cheers 👍👍👍
any big items that need molding, I use re-meltable rubber and a fibreglass jacket. I've re-used the same batch of re-meltable rubber for over 20 years now and has saved me loads of money.
thanks for the tip great stuff
From my years as a bridge construction inspector, when pouring concrete, large vibrators were used to consolidate/settle the concrete. These were worked into and out of the concrete throughout the pour. Perhaps a, um, personal sized, vibrator could be used to accomplish the same thing on a smaller scale.
Mildly NSFW commercial: ua-cam.com/video/gxbS7t9oKNY/v-deo.html
I did buy one of them vibrating exercise machines that you stand on and I was going to use that but it didn't work way to powerful it just bounced the model around going to look for something smaller like you said cheers
@@FilamentForge The type in Luke's commercial above was what I had in mind. Seal it in a zip-loc bag to protect it from the concrete. Good luck. Great vid BTW.
@@luke_fabis I can't begin to tell you the uproar I created in our household when I was a tot and found my sister's!
@@jayphilbin2871 hahaha just watched it I might need two 😲
Very very good job man! You've got excellent patience with all the drying time but it was clearly worth the wait!
I realize this video was awhile ago but I have to say something. The Thing made of cement rock....... Badass!! That is the best Thing bust I've came across. I will do some scouting to obtain it
thats not what i ment when I said I want a concrete example of a good fantastic 4 casting choice :D
That's seriously impressive mate - nice one! I've saved a fortune on silicone molds by thoroughly washing and chopping up old and failed previous silicone molds and chucking those into the new silicone to bulk it out: works brilliantly and can drastically cut down the amount of new silicone needed.
another great tip thank you with silicone costing so much that's a really good one cheers
Details please!
@@playgrounddolls7766 Well, it's pretty much just as I said above: don't throw failed molds or one-shot molds away. Don't throw scraps of cured silicone away - save 'em all up, wash 'em in hot, soapy water and let them dry. Then when you've got a mahoosive mold to make (or even a not-so-mahoosive one, but you're nearly out of RTV silicone or can't afford to buy any more or can't get to the shop), take your "rescued" silicone and add it into your newly-mixed and poured silicone to bulk it out.
You can throw in large pieces, or cut it into smaller ones to fit awkward spaces in the mold. The new silicone adheres perfectly to the old stuff (as long as it's clean). Try to orient your rescued silicone to avoid trapping air bubbles under the chunks - maybe wiggle them around as you put them into the new stuff, or pour the new stuff into the gaps between the rescued chunks so that air bubbles are more likely to be "floated" out.
You might find that if you've gone for a particular, low Shore hardness (A20 and below) that the chunks - even if made of the same Shore grade - will make the whole mold harder and a little more rigid. In fact, grinding rescue silicone up in one of those hand-cranked meat grinder things (I tried it in a coffee bean grinder and it ended up blowing the motor!!) and then mixing it with freshly mixed silicone can give you a very tough-feeling finished product indeed.
And, of course, you can go on and re-use THESE mongrel molds - although that's not something I've actually tried, but I can't see why it wouldn't work...
And, obviously, if you're like some YooToobers who mix up a whole kg of RTV and only use a third of it - LOL! - save the stuff that sets in and on your mixing equipment., and chop that up for recycling too.
Seriously, I've saved £££££s and ££££££s doing this - loet me know if there's anything useful that I've missed!
@@MarkMichalowski wow. Thats a long comment:-) Thank You for Your time and great tip. All best!
@@playgrounddolls7766 A pleasure! :)
Dude, YOU ARE AMAZING! What a great job. I don't have a large enough vocabulary to express my appreciation for your talent. SPECTACULAR
Thank you for the kind words
Great project!
The results are 'Fantastic'. I think Jack Kirby would have been happy to see what he inked back in the 60s turned out to be a huge success.
I think I would agree on that cheers
clean process, nice explained, well used video time and explanations, congratulations for everthing!
Thank you
very very beautiful job, a lot of talent.
Thank you! Cheers!
@@FilamentForge i m a fan, hope to see another project soon, ( since iv watched your channel, i bought an airbrush and train myself on a 1.72. scale millennium falcon).
You need to get a vacuum chamber to get rid of the bubbles.
You should use it both for the silicone pour and the concrete.
Looks great. You could proably put some perlite in that cement so it is not so heavy. Also when I learned casting we used to put what we called a milk coat of 100% cement and water on the mould to caputure more fine detail, and then after that coat had dried up a little we poured the rest of the concrete in. Also we would suspend chunks of styrofoam inside to make it lighter.
Thanks for the info!
Definitely worth the time and effort, well done 😊
Very cool models. Seeing the primer color made me think of lava rock. I was thinking it'd look neat with one done very dark like that with white basing in the cracks over painted with yellows, oranges and reds for a lava glow through the cracks.
That would be cool!
If you latex lots of jobs at once it works out really quick. You could easily give 1 coat to 10 models in 10 minutes. And you save loads of time with cleaning the brushes.
The only thing I don't like is the smell
The concrete is a really nice touch
It was your Hulk build that made me get into 3D printing :) Now you up the game with concrete! My hobby space can’t handle it dude :)
I've always wanted to do concrete casting there are loads of 3d prints that would look awesome in concrete the next few builds are all going to be concrete cast can't wait 👍👍👍
You could corner stone a product line of Ben Grimm garden Gnomes or Gargoyles if you can get the models for it.
🤔🤔
Nice job! Regards from Spain!
The ever-lovin', blue-eyed Thing!
i think you should have put some rebar in there for stability
a little wire would have been enough
but nice work!
I would look into a cement/sand/perlite mix. They make lightweight cement planters and the like out of that combination. Would definitely take the weight down some in future castings. Very cool cast and model all around.
Will do cheers
a common thing to do is, mix up a thin slurry mix, and fill in the air bubbles
Yes that's what I did I just forgot to mention it cheers
Did you think of putting support wire inside the concrete? Should help with strength in the long run. And I was thinking that you can fill the air holes with a really wet slurry of concrete. Just a thought. Turned out fantastic!
To fix the air holes I used cement it did the job perfectly I got the tip from a concrete casting UA-camr and as for strength I think your idea is for structures concrete needed for load-bearing 👍👍
you can use the concrete slurry to fill in the pin holes
Yes but not the concrete just the cement no sand or stones 👍👍
Top quality work as usual 👍
incredible
Very great Job!! Respect!
Hello there, I found your video because I was looking into ways of 'coating' 3D prints with thin veneers such as stone or metal to disguise the plastic underneath but couldn't find anything substantial. This process seems to be the most effective method of doing so, but I have a few questions:
How heavy was the concrete bust? Is it comparable to a normal bust of stone or porcelain or is it a lot heavier?
What were the total cost of the process? Have you improved upon the method since this video?
I wish there were a magic solution, such as a bronze spray or marble spray which could apply a thin layer but that seems unreasonable!
Thanks a lot, I enjoyed it.
i think the bust is about 5 kgs and as long as you dont waste to much sand and cement making it is quiet cheap cheers
Amazing work, man. Love it. Love video.
That is incredible great job
Really great job! Nice work 👍👍
Thanks pal
awesome work!
I wouldn’t mind one for myself
Incredible work!
You can Slave the Bubble Problem with a big Vacuum Chamber Made from a big pvc Tube .
great idea cheers
You should cut the eye sockets out of the latex mold and lightly glue some glass eyes into the sockets, those would really pop
Probably could have added some terra cotta pigment to your concrete mix as well and added abit of longevity to the bust
sound good i will give it a try next time cheers
Great Job! can I ask why latex and not silicon? it dry faster and gives good result.
Just cheaper and easy to pull off the model cheers
Wow! Just Wow!
👍🤘👍
Good job mate
Great work, and one critique...Consider inserting a spacer inside the head to make it more "hollow". Reduces weight.
wish I had thought of that great tip cheers
Apologies if you've answered thsi question before but I've just found your channel, do you sell your pieces? Particularly the hulk and juggernaut pieces?
Thanks
if you check back in about a month I will have a gladiator hulk for sale
@@FilamentForge I'm in the UK so shipping would not be a problem. Do you have an email address I could have ?
Which 3d printer do you use. I want to get into 3d printing specifically to make futbol trophies ucl trophies la liga for personal use.
formbot raptor2.0
this is a Fantastic project !!!!
goooood job
Bruv... that looks amazing!
Oh man! Where have you been. It's been a while and I have missed your videos. Love what you have done! Keep it up and we need more videos! You have helped me with my work through your videos.
Sorry it's been a while and I'm glad my videos have helped you out I got stuck in lazy mode after Christmas but I'm out of it now 👍👍👍
@@FilamentForge I know the feeling. I started Deadpool's bust (1 foot tall) last year and I am half way through. I keep telling myself to finish. I should jump on it and finish! thanks again for your videos!
@@Gungrav3 that's on my to-do list
Great video... i want to learn how to do this also... can you tell me how long or how many times you can cast using your mold? also which is better a latex mold or silicone mold? is cost about the same also??? thax
you could get at least 100 cast out of this mold but you have to be carful of latex don't expose it to sun light and when cleaning it just use water no chemicals latex is cheaper but takes longer to apply but is a lot more flexible so you can just pull it of the mold but also the have to apply it in a well ventilated room
@@FilamentForge so silicone is harder to demold and is not as durable and long lasting as latex... is cost the same? thax
@@roadstar499 Silicone is over ten times as expensive as latex.
Air Bubbles Ad to it I think...more character.
Did you have to post process to get rid of any layer lines?
good quality filament and 0.1 or 0.2 layer height and i usually use a good filler primer
Awesome project! New subscriber keep up the great work.
Thanks pal
Omg i love this so much
did you put a release compound on the 3d model before adding latex ?
No and it came off fine I only used one before pouring the concrete
Beautiful work as always. Love it.
👍👍👍
Amazing work! Is there any reason you choose to use latex on the head and not silicone? Did you have any issues with the latex shrinking?
Thanks!
latex is a lot cheaper and as for shrinking I didn't have any cheers
Great Project !! why did you use latex ? is it more resistant than silicon ?
Latex is more flexible and stretchy making it really easy to remove from the concrete cheers
You would have a better finish if you were to take a sander and put it up against the bucket or the side of the cast that you are making. Just put the side or the top of the sander against the mold.
Also what did you do to get rid of air bubbles in other casts... just using a vibration machine??? thax
to get rid of the bubbles I added a little bit more water to the mix and increased the cement and because I reinforced the mother mold with fibre glass I was able to vibrate the model more my picking it up and shaking it
@@FilamentForge cool...thax
@@FilamentForge With smaller models you do not always need a mother mold and can squeeze it around a bit. Also using less aggregate will make it smoother.
Interesting fact: the outside of silicon mold looks like Spider-Man mask when you peeled it out of the concrete head of the Thing :D
It did well spotted 👍👍
@Filament Forge Has this giveaway happened?
Yes
Great model dude 👍
Also a quick tip use a sander without the sandpaper and vibrate the mold releases all the air out to rise to the top then compressed air or blow torch over the top to get rid of them
@@playdeathsdidn't think of that great tip cheers
Grat process breakdown! A bit odd to paint a concrete model, i thought you were after the raw beauty of concrete. For the current look ,why not just paint the 3d print directly? If you were after weight, you could mix some resin and gravel and fill it in.
I just wanted it in concrete because it will out last a PLA print and concrete model get painted all the time but normally just black and white cheers
Really cool!!! I want to do that too someday!
If I can do it so can you 👍👍
i like your work wow, rock on, dude
Rock on 😊🤘🤘
Awesome!! Good work man!! ;-)
Cheers
Awesome work again Filament Forge, What will you do with the concrete casts ?
I have just ordered my first 3d printer - the Creality Cr10s pro V2, super excited for it to arrive (in about a million years from China :) , and I will add you were my inspiration..... I can see you spend a lot of time and effort with your creations, and it would be great if I could have some way of getting some noobie tips and pointers from you mate.
Kind Regards
Moe
Thank you for the kind words as for the cast I'm giving three away to my patreons and as for tips best thing you can do if find a UA-camr that has your printer that has done a set up how to video for your printer and as for finishing prints like painting them you could check out my videos and see if they help good luck with your new hobby cheers
ua-cam.com/video/cgSZTfGthMw/v-deo.html
You should’ve used silicone for the mold for the head, you would’ve had it finished in a fraction of the time. Although it would be more expensive sadly.
Latex is a lot cheaper and I've still got about 4lt left for other builds
Amazing!!!
Thanks you great to hear from you👍👍
How did you learn to do this and where can I research this? Awesome project btw glad to see this project finish after a while
Oh also a follow up question is how much did it cost not including the 3d print part?
I just searched UA-cam for concrete casting videos and watched them a lot until I figured it all out it best to search for each individual thing you need to know more about like how to mix concrete and so on thanks for watching cheers
Filament Forge awesome thankyou for the reply
You actually got REALLY REALLY lucky that the base wasn't contaminated from the Latex. In general latex inhibits the crap out of silicone. Like enough that you shouldn't even be wearing latex gloves when working around platinum cure silicones. Really awesome work though, the finished product looks awesome.
That's good to know cheers
Mabye a vibrator rod would come in handy to remove alot of the bubbles :)
A good vibrator rod comes in handy for a lot of things ;)
how did you get the silicone and the plaster strips off the 3D print?
The latex came off really easily it's like an elastic band so you stretch it to get it off and the plaster bandage mother mold was a two-part it split down the middle 👍👍
Great work! Just a question: did you consider using a thickener for the latex and/ or silicone to not waste time and silicone? Wouldn’t that be quicker?
I did but it was my first time using latex so didn't what to over complicate things cheers
got hooked at min 00:52
Thanks pal
may i ask what setting do you use in order to get that smooth and detail surface?
3d print a mixer that can attach to a drill next time to help your mixing
good idea but I do like manual mixing helps me burn cals cheers
@@FilamentForge I'd prefer a more consistent mix might help with the curing process of getting the air and bubbles out slightly. Burnning calories are over rated
Would you recommend trex 2
Yes but I would go for the raptor 2.0
@@FilamentForge wich one do yourecommend the trex 3+ , the trex 3.0 , the raptor 2+ or the raptor 2.0
are you from manchester (or the area)?
Yes 👍
Why not make the base out of wood or something else and not waste the filament just asking?
I did think of that but I don't have much woodworking skills or equipment which I plan on improving on in the future cheers
@@FilamentForge yea it's ok you could make resin cast sections of geometric shapes and the use them for different bases also
Great idea thanks for that👍👍
@@FilamentForge I used to base cast figures on wooden bases pretty cheap to make tile , wood bottom of plastic bottles, cork scraps of plastic, everything works as a base
@@legsakimbo666 Might be nice with a more organic shape made from concrete. You can sculpt it a bit like clay if you get the mix right.
How much was the laytex?
I think about £15 FOR 5 LT
I've also knocked the hot-end while doing a filament change, its the worst. I wish the printer would return to a home position or maybe checked its position before resuming. I don't see a technical reason why this isn't possible.
Looks good, but damn, decoding the head from the 3d print had to be tough, wish you’d recorded that.
If was pretty manageable latex is very stretchy and flexible
It helps that you had a wide base and no nasty narrow bits that can break off.
Try mounting the camera to the printing surface, that should get get you far superior time-lapse footage. 👍
Will do cheers
Where do you sell those??
Concrete should be a little wetter. The slump should just drip in.
but, why? You could have made the plastic look just like that.
Mike The Gamer Because of the quality, texture, and also just the fact that it is made out of concrete makes it cooler. There are more reasons but those are the main I think
Have you ever heard people say 'I don't what that one it's made of cheap plastic I will find a better quality one' it's just like that plus I'm a maker it's what we do cheers
Good job! 👍 I'd say great job if you'd not left out so much of the de-molding.
Regardless, *Thank you!* 👍
BTW, I've seen craftsmen using electric palm sanders to eliminate air bubbles. 😃
I showed a bit but I had to edit some out because it's all really a 40min video and a lot of people don't like them too long cheers
merci pour cette vidéo, tu te fait trop rare l'ami ;)
It's a -Jeep- concrete Thing, you wouldn't understand
Tell me
hope your doing a give away on one i need one lol
The giveaway is just for patreons I'm trying to kick start it with something really cool if it goes well I will be doing more
@@FilamentForge $25 is a bit steep for me but I love you work
@@julianchadwick6038 there's two other tiers $3 & $9 I'm a bit new to the whole Patreon thing still working on it I wish I could give them away for free it's just shipping is going to cost a fortune 👍👍
Give away mate? They look so professional, if you put them on ebay, they would easyly fetch you a new printer...
thanks pal
Show...
Sell me a mold pls
I don't have permission to sell them but if you become a patron your name will be put in the draw
Amazing!!!