Wonderful explanation of the process thank you. Im wondering as the figurine is hollow would there be any value trying to put hextal on the inside or does it pull into the cracks? Also why did you say its not suitable for high gloss finish glaze because it looked like it was high gloss originally?
The HXTAL is designed to wick into cracks by capillary action. As for the glossiness, the original was somewhere between a high gloss and semi-gloss. That's what I was aiming for in the final finish, though what I got was way less than glossy; almost matte. I realized the difference so I buffed up the finish to the desired sheen but by then I'd already filmed the final scene of the repair video.
I'm an amateur, rookie repairer of small vintage figurines. I use Milliput often. I'm curious why you sanded the excess Milliput instead of wetting it, smoothing it, and wiping it? Thanks for the great video!
@@marsgitar Curious: Is it even possible to match or imitate fine crazing on small, 1950s porcelain figurines? I've a few adorable Napco pieces that I'm sprucing up. :-)
@@victoriae.2371 I would say "No". I tell my customers that when I get an object with crazing. Since I use an airbrush, I can usually ease the transition from crazed area to non-crazed area, minimizing the effect. The crack lines in crazing is way smaller than any brush can match.
Thanks for the suggestion. I don't use this method myself. Heating the Milliput speeds the curing time, so sometimes I heat the item after I've applied the Milliput.
Please can I ask what if you have bigger piece missing? I’ve pieced the ornament back together but I have a hole 😩 any advice or previous videos I can watch? thanks
Yes, missing pieces can be filled or replaced. Many of my videos show this process. How this might be accomplished depends on how large, and the type of the missing piece. See my UA-cam channel for the complete list of my restoration/repair videos at this link: ua-cam.com/channels/SNt5PZM52Dud5lPNLp52eQ.html?view_as=subscriber Good luck.
As far as I know, there is no comparable substitute for Hxtal. Though for a small object like this one, where you'll be painting over the crack lines, I suppose you could use a good quality hardware store epoxy.
@@DrFaltermeier I’ve had the chance to use both since my comment. I wouldn’t suggest araldite for fine restoration. If you have multiple pieces tu glue, araldite will slightly offset the pieces because of the thickness of the product. Hxtal does not. But, price wise, araldite can be a substitute for occasional restorations.
@@WoodfulProjectsI agree with you. if there is a hairline crack a heatlamp will lower the viscosity of Araldite 2020 to allow for better penetration and increase the speed of polymerisation. So always a win win in my treatments. However I was always concerned if this might change the ageing of the epoxy, since I avoid airbrushing as much as I can.
Hi Martin, admire your work. Do you make your own "hot box" or can you purchase one. If you put it together yourself how do you make one? Thank you, Connie
Sorry to take so long to respond. I just now saw your question. The hot box I have was home-made but not by me. I worked at another restoration studio before I opened mine, and I got the hot box from her when I was buying out her equipment. Her husband made it for her. It wouldn't be hard to make one: Mine is an old upright freezer without the compressor, motor and refrigerant. All you need is the heater element from an old electric oven and a thermocouple with a tempreture dial. The box only gets up to 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit, so it's not going to melt the plastic liner of the freezer. If you collected the parts, you could have an electrician, or an appliance repair person wire it up for you for not too much money, I would imagine.
Merhaba buyuk basari tebrik ederim. Kullandiginiz yapistirici sivinin adi nedir boya makinasinin kullanilan boyalar ne boyasi lutfen yardimci olurmusunuz vide turkce olmadigi icin anlamiyorum.yardiminiz ihtiyacim var
Yapıştırıcı Hxral NYL-1 epoksidir. Size yakın bir kaynak için internette bir arama yapın. Kullandığım boya markası "Altın" akrilik boyalar ve bunların karıştırma ortamları vb.
Thanks galtchase. I record these things just for my music videos. Not enough of them yet for something like an album. So, no, not available anywhere . . . . . . . . . . . yet.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I will know in future to check previous questions before wasting your time. It’s absolutely fascinating watching you work. Keep the videos coming please.
hi i'm from philippines, can you send some of the alternative adhesive or something that will put together on my broken vase that somehow available here in my country. i'm so devastated my son broke it😭 came from my old japanese friend .Thank you in advance
I'm sorry, I can't send adhesive to you. Find out what kind of material the object you need to fix is made from. Then go to the hardware store and find an adhesive that will bond that material. Follow the directions on the package, and be careful to get your parts aligned well. That should work for you. Good luck.
Hi! Thank you for sharing your work. I’m not able to find the slymasta cold glaze product in the US. Could you recommend another product for the cold glaze process?
@@CC-qf8wk I don't have a tutorial. For use in an airbrush I measure and mix my Cold Glaze like this example: Measure by weight with a gram scale: Five parts cold glaze resin to one part hardener. Then take that total weight and add that amount of cold glaze thinner. Example: 2.0 grams resin, add .5 gram hardener. That's 2.5 grams. Add 2.5 grams of thinner and mix thoroughly.
My cow sculpture head were broken. Can you please tell me what kind of things you used to sticky this sculpture. Please martin scherer kindly help me... 🙏🙏
General guidelines: for porous ceramics, use white wood glue. For non-porous ceramics use epoxy formulated for ceramics. It might help to watch a few more of my repair videos, especially the more recent ones. The newer ones have tools and material lists in the comments section. Good luck to you.
Yes, you can send me things to repair. There's no such thing as an "average cost of repair". Each repair is based on the work required. You need to send a photo or two to my email address: mscherer@tesserak.net. I'll give you an estimate based on what I can tell from the photos. Let me know if you have all the pieces, the size of the object, and anything else that might help me determine the cost/time to repair.
Hello from Belarus! Nice video ) Can u see my last video , I'm buy porcelain statuette and it need help with reconstruction. But i don't know how . May be u give me advice ?)
It started out as almost a semi-gloss, or the low end of glossiness. As I painted the bird, each layer of paint was sealed with a gloss sealer, so I can see it get dull as I sand in prep for the next color. After the final coats of paint and gloss sealer, I applied a flat version of the sealer. Then I did the "after" photo. I realized I forgot to buff up the flat coat, so I did buff it up again to a semi-gloss finish. By then I'd already done the editing of the video.
Great repair. The final matte finish looks excellent (the paint is likewise really outstanding).
Skill counts but attitude is the key for this kind of work. Impressive!
Thank you for sharing Mr Scherer.
Magnifique travail, quelle minutie, quelle patience ! Il est encore plus joli qu'avant ! Bravo !
Awsome.
Music is cool but not when you're talking please.
What an artist. :)
Nice job but It would really help if you stated the tools and sundries you used. What glue did you use etc?
He said he used Hxtal. I looked it up and it is an epoxy adhesive developed especially to use in conservation for the repair of glass and ceramics.
Could someone advise if the Araldite standard would do the same job ?
Wonderful explanation of the process thank you. Im wondering as the figurine is hollow would there be any value trying to put hextal on the inside or does it pull into the cracks? Also why did you say its not suitable for high gloss finish glaze because it looked like it was high gloss originally?
The HXTAL is designed to wick into cracks by capillary action. As for the glossiness, the original was somewhere between a high gloss and semi-gloss. That's what I was aiming for in the final finish, though what I got was way less than glossy; almost matte. I realized the difference so I buffed up the finish to the desired sheen but by then I'd already filmed the final scene of the repair video.
@@marsgitar Thank you for taking the time to respond. I could maybe do the fitting together of the parts but no way could I do the painting, love it
Great video........HONESTLY but I lost my patience during the taping process....
I understand
El pajarito quedó como nuevo
Which brand(s) of paints do you utilize the most with your air brush Martin? Thank you again for posting your work & all your pointers & tips.
You are welcome. I use Golden brand acrylic paints and mediums.
I'm an amateur, rookie repairer of small vintage figurines. I use Milliput often. I'm curious why you sanded the excess Milliput instead of wetting it, smoothing it, and wiping it? Thanks for the great video!
I use whichever method works best for the situation at hand. Sometimes I do use the method you described.
@@marsgitar THANK YOU!! :-)
@@marsgitar Curious: Is it even possible to match or imitate fine crazing on small, 1950s porcelain figurines? I've a few adorable Napco pieces that I'm sprucing up. :-)
@@victoriae.2371 I would say "No". I tell my customers that when I get an object with crazing. Since I use an airbrush, I can usually ease the transition from crazed area to non-crazed area, minimizing the effect. The crack lines in crazing is way smaller than any brush can match.
@@marsgitar Thank you again Martin! You confirmed what I suspected. Feels good to be more sure of my assessment. I appreciate your videos. :-)
What is the specific name of the Hexcel product use use here, I am at the hexel website but they have many types, thanks you are highly skilled!
The product is called "HXTL-NYL", I've also seen it listed as "HXTAL", water clear epoxy.
@@marsgitar thank you!
很愛 這 個 少 雀鳥，希望有 一 天 我 能買下 它。
I love it too!
Maravilha...
Seemed very matte when finished, is that the final result or are you about to clear glaze it?
The glaze was adjusted for sheen after the video was finished and uploaded but before the client picked up the finished bird.
WOW...amazing.
Thanks!
excellent video...i love it
Thanks!
Which cold glaze do you like best?
I like Sylmasta brand Cold Glaze Pro II, glossy.
Have you ever used a heating pad under your pallet? Warm Milliput seems easier to spread to me.
Thanks for the suggestion. I don't use this method myself. Heating the Milliput speeds the curing time, so sometimes I heat the item after I've applied the Milliput.
Please can I ask what if you have bigger piece missing? I’ve pieced the ornament back together but I have a hole 😩 any advice or previous videos I can watch? thanks
Yes, missing pieces can be filled or replaced. Many of my videos show this process. How this might be accomplished depends on how large, and the type of the missing piece. See my UA-cam channel for the complete list of my restoration/repair videos at this link: ua-cam.com/channels/SNt5PZM52Dud5lPNLp52eQ.html?view_as=subscriber
Good luck.
@@marsgitar thanks for replying, I’ll be sure to have a look through and get some tips before I start. Thank you 😊
Hi, given the price of the Hxtal (more than 80€ for 50g), is there any similar product you would suggest? Many thanks
As far as I know, there is no comparable substitute for Hxtal.
Though for a small object like this one, where you'll be painting over the crack lines, I suppose you could use a good quality hardware store epoxy.
@@marsgitar thanks a lot Martin for sharing your knowledge. Hxtal it is then :).
There is Araldite 2020, I prefer it, easier to use.
@@DrFaltermeier I’ve had the chance to use both since my comment. I wouldn’t suggest araldite for fine restoration. If you have multiple pieces tu glue, araldite will slightly offset the pieces because of the thickness of the product. Hxtal does not. But, price wise, araldite can be a substitute for occasional restorations.
@@WoodfulProjectsI agree with you. if there is a hairline crack a heatlamp will lower the viscosity of Araldite 2020 to allow for better penetration and increase the speed of polymerisation. So always a win win in my treatments. However I was always concerned if this might change the ageing of the epoxy, since I avoid airbrushing as much as I can.
Can I send you something similar to fix? My wife is devastated over a porcelain bird that played music. Her deceased grandfather gave it to her.
Yes, you may. I'll estimate the repair based on photos you send me. Send photos to my email address: mscherer@tesserak.net
Fantastic xx
Hi Martin, admire your work. Do you make your own "hot box" or can you purchase one. If you put it together yourself how do you make one? Thank you, Connie
Sorry to take so long to respond. I just now saw your question.
The hot box I have was home-made but not by me. I worked at another restoration studio before I opened mine, and I got the hot box from her when I was buying out her equipment. Her husband made it for her. It wouldn't be hard to make one: Mine is an old upright freezer without the compressor, motor and refrigerant. All you need is the heater element from an old electric oven and a thermocouple with a tempreture dial. The box only gets up to 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit, so it's not going to melt the plastic liner of the freezer. If you collected the parts, you could have an electrician, or an appliance repair person wire it up for you for not too much money, I would imagine.
Merhaba buyuk basari tebrik ederim. Kullandiginiz yapistirici sivinin adi nedir boya makinasinin kullanilan boyalar ne boyasi lutfen yardimci olurmusunuz vide turkce olmadigi icin anlamiyorum.yardiminiz ihtiyacim var
Yapıştırıcı Hxral NYL-1 epoksidir. Size yakın bir kaynak için internette bir arama yapın. Kullandığım boya markası "Altın" akrilik boyalar ve bunların karıştırma ortamları vb.
@@marsgitar 🌷🌷cok tesk ederim martin cevap verdigin icin sen cok profosyonel muthis basarilisin tebrikler
wonderfull job!
Thanks!
What kind of tape are you using please? Sorry if I missed it earlier. Thanks
It is masking tape. I cut it ahead of time to the length and width I need.
Hallo Martin,was sprayst du darau mit pistole?Danke Irena
Ich sprühe Acrylfarbe (Farbe) und sprühe am Ende eine Klarlackschicht auf.
sorry put don't like by mistake, there is your like!! thanks!!
Do you have a website or do repair inquiries go here?
I really like your music. Is there any place we can get it? Thanks.
Thanks galtchase. I record these things just for my music videos. Not enough of them yet for something like an album. So, no, not available anywhere . . . . . . . . . . . yet.
@@marsgitar Thanks so much....let us know when you have an album :)
Martin What is a hot box?
I've a lengthy reply to this question further down this comments list.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I will know in future to check previous questions before wasting your time. It’s absolutely fascinating watching you work. Keep the videos coming please.
hi i'm from philippines, can you send some of the alternative adhesive or something that will put together on my broken vase that somehow available here in my country. i'm so devastated my son broke it😭 came from my old japanese friend .Thank you in advance
I'm sorry, I can't send adhesive to you. Find out what kind of material the object you need to fix is made from. Then go to the hardware store and find an adhesive that will bond that material. Follow the directions on the package, and be careful to get your parts aligned well. That should work for you. Good luck.
Hi! Thank you for sharing your work. I’m not able to find the slymasta cold glaze product in the US. Could you recommend another product for the cold glaze process?
US distributor: www.myrestorationsupplies.com/
Thank you!
Hello again- do you have a tutorial on the cold glaze process? The consistency of the hardener and resin together seem thick for the air brush.
@@CC-qf8wk I don't have a tutorial. For use in an airbrush I measure and mix my Cold Glaze like this example: Measure by weight with a gram scale: Five parts cold glaze resin to one part hardener. Then take that total weight and add that amount of cold glaze thinner. Example: 2.0 grams resin, add .5 gram hardener. That's 2.5 grams. Add 2.5 grams of thinner and mix thoroughly.
@@marsgitar perfect ! I appreciate the tips !
What is the white putty u use ? Is it a secret
No secret. It's "Milliput brand, super fine white" epoxy putty. Find it on line.
@@marsgitar and you prime directly on it?
@@BrickBazooka you can, but I put down a coat of Cold Glaze and sand that first.
Watch a few more of my videos to see how I work with it.
Is it OK to squeal like a teenage girl when you post a new video? Cause I do lol
Kevin Eaton you may wanna get out more 😂
My cow sculpture head were broken. Can you please tell me what kind of things you used to sticky this sculpture. Please martin scherer kindly help me... 🙏🙏
General guidelines: for porous ceramics, use white wood glue. For non-porous ceramics use epoxy formulated for ceramics. It might help to watch a few more of my repair videos, especially the more recent ones. The newer ones have tools and material lists in the comments section. Good luck to you.
Please Let me know if you can repair an item I have
Send me a description and photo via email to: mscherer@tesserak.net
Can I send you items for repair and if so what would be an average cost for a bird that is similar
Yes, you can send me things to repair. There's no such thing as an "average cost of repair". Each repair is based on the work required. You need to send a photo or two to my email address: mscherer@tesserak.net. I'll give you an estimate based on what I can tell from the photos. Let me know if you have all the pieces, the size of the object, and anything else that might help me determine the cost/time to repair.
Hello from Belarus! Nice video ) Can u see my last video , I'm buy porcelain statuette and it need help with reconstruction. But i don't know how . May be u give me advice ?)
I will help if I am able. May I see a photo of the damaged figurine?
@@marsgitar It have in my last 4 mins video at my chanal , can u see ?
It came in high gloss why did you change it
It started out as almost a semi-gloss, or the low end of glossiness. As I painted the bird, each layer of paint was sealed with a gloss sealer, so I can see it get dull as I sand in prep for the next color. After the final coats of paint and gloss sealer, I applied a flat version of the sealer. Then I did the "after" photo. I realized I forgot to buff up the flat coat, so I did buff it up again to a semi-gloss finish. By then I'd already done the editing of the video.
Martin Scherer thank you your work is amazingly
What an exorbitant waste of time and talent but worth its weight in gold. The world is so confusing.