I’m currently repairing a ton of my grandmother’s old Roseville pottery. It’s a lot of work but your video is helping me do some more nuanced version of repairs and I couldn’t be happier with how the process is going! Thank you!
I have a big bowl from the 50’s it’s a Fiesta, found at a yard sale for 3.00 because it has 3 small chips on the top edge. I wish I could repair this …..
Wow bravo! Q:On which items would you use Golden Brand Ceramic restoration glaze; is it equivalent to your sSlmasa product or particular to only certain repairs?
Can you point me in the right direction of restoring some 1850s kobalt soda bottles that I excavated I have a few of them that the tops are knocked off and they're just not worth having them restored but I would like to tackle it myself
If you have the broken pieces, there are UV light cured liquid adhesives made for repairing glass (if the color isn't too dark. Otherwise there's an epoxy I use called Hxtal. I have a video on using Hxtal. You can look up and research these on line. If you don't have the missing pieces, then I doubt they could be repaired. Good luck to you on this.
There's no simple answer to your question. I would have to see the item in front of me for a good answer. It depends on whether the china is porous or non-porous, the condition of the china, whether it's been previously repaired, chips, missing or not, cracks that are not open or "apart". The china might have actually changes shape when it broke. Actually and entire page of questions that potentially come into play. In the meantime, I recommend watching some more of my videos on china similar to yours. You might find some guidance there.
A+B is a harder epoxy putty. I use it when I need to fill a large area or I need it to be very strong. Milliput is softer. I use it for finer fills (on top of A+B or to fill finer cracks. It gets into the tiny-est cracks. Milliput is easier to sand and file.
Martin, are the files you use of a particular hardness in order to not scratch ceramic/porcelain? I wish i have discovered your videos earlier. they are gold to me. Cheers
I'm happy to hear that you find these videos helpful. The files are 6 inch steel files I get at harbor freight. It's a set of 12 for under $10. I go through a couple sets of these per year. They won't harm the glaze on most ceramics, if you're not too aggressive with your filing.
Hello Martin, such a seamless repair, like there was never a chip. Excellent job and thanks for this invaluable videos. I have one question that you might be able to help. I want to use sylmasta cold glaze pro with airbrush but can I use golden high flow medium to thin it down for airbrush use or I should buy the sylmasta thinning medium ? Thanks for all your advices.
The reason I asking is because sylmasta thinning medium is more than $30 and i already have golden’s high flow medium for acrylic paint so I might be able to save money.
No you cannot use Golden mediums to thin Sylmasta cold glaze. Goldens paints and mediums are water based. Sylmasta cold glaze system is solvent based. You really do need to use their solvent to get good results.
@@marsgitar Great thank you. I recently purchased the Novus scratch repair (and was glad to be able to find it in Canada). I was wondering, do you simply apply it/buff if with a rag at the end of the total process in order to restore the sheen?
Hi Martin- I’ve been learning a lot from your videos and applying some of the steps to a small statue I’m attempting to fix. Thank you so much for sharing. I was wondering - at what stage does the product gain it’s glossiness? It seems dull through the cold glaze process... does it become glossy when you apply the Novus scratch repair?
I'm glad you find my videos helpful. The cold glaze has to be fine-sanded with MicroMesh, up to a grit of about 6000 to 8000, then polished with the Novus polish to bring it up to the proper brilliance. Good luck to you!
I assume you're asking about the epoxy putty. It's called "Rezolin A+B epoxy putty. It's available on line. Here's a link: www.aplusbputty.com/ The other filler product is called Milliput epoxy putty. Here, I'm using the Superfine White version of Milliput. It's available many places on line. Look it up.
@@marsgitar thanks for this very detailed tutorial. I was wondering if the Milliput epoxy putty can replace the Rezolin A+B epoxy putty in the first step. Thank you very much
@@miumiuli312 Yes, one could use Milliput instead of the A+B. I use the A+B first because it is stronger and harder than Milliput. I usually use the Milliput for small voids and crack filling.
Perfect demonstration from start to finish. I'm going to use this method to prepare the chip in my china. Do you know if this has been dinnerware safe?
The method I use is safe for you to eat off of, but care must be taken that you don't harm the finish with eating utensils and cleaning (no dishwasher, microwave or oven use. hand wash only. No abrasives.) If the repair is at the edge you could probably get away with eating off of it. Otherwise: display/non-eating only.
Dude is a wizard. Thanks for sharing your talents. ❤
Amazing job. Never expected porcelain could be repaired without visible defects.
Perfect. Must be gratifying. Well done👍
What a remarkable restoration. You're superbly talented. 👍
I stopped by to say how professional your videos are. These are up to the point and very detailed. Thank you very much!
Thanks.
Another super job. Excellent results.
fascinating to watch ! superb result !
love watching an artist work miracles. Beautifully done
Thanks.
Fascinating to watch how you do these repairs! You do great work! Thank you for sharing!
I’m currently repairing a ton of my grandmother’s old Roseville pottery. It’s a lot of work but your video is helping me do some more nuanced version of repairs and I couldn’t be happier with how the process is going! Thank you!
The dudes from the plate painting thank You for the repair😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Martin, when they hand out genetic modifications, I want that power-filing feature added!
That speed filing was so satisfying! Love this video, as always ❤
OMG! That was awesome. No one would ever know that the plate had been repaired. You do wonderful and beautiful work!!
Thanks very much!
Mate thanks for sharing, Good to see you back....from NZ...stay safe....
Wow great job glad to see u back on UA-cam I love watching the repairs
Lovely ! Enjoy watching 😘
I am blown away!!!!
Amazing result. Thanks for sharing and answering to all questions.
Absolutely incredible love it
Wow, you did a great job on that!
Wow you are an expert 👏 🙄
I have a big bowl from the 50’s it’s a Fiesta, found at a yard sale for 3.00 because it has 3 small chips on the top edge. I wish I could repair this …..
Amazing , thank you for sharing.
Well done.
👍 Pro job dude
Thanks.
Good job. Well done
Wow bravo! Q:On which items would you use Golden Brand Ceramic restoration glaze; is it equivalent to your sSlmasa product or particular to only certain repairs?
Wonderful.
Great job!!! amaizing!!!
Thanks!
Could I use that to fix broken cobalt jar? Missing a bit of the lip of it. Thank you
It would probably work.
Another awesome repair!
Micro Mesh has a line of
foam back sandpaper. Do
you remember where you
got your mini putty knife
(tools) from, Martin?
I made the putty knife myself. I often make my own tools.
Can you point me in the right direction of restoring some 1850s kobalt soda bottles that I excavated I have a few of them that the tops are knocked off and they're just not worth having them restored but I would like to tackle it myself
If you have the broken pieces, there are UV light cured liquid adhesives made for repairing glass (if the color isn't too dark. Otherwise there's an epoxy I use called Hxtal. I have a video on using Hxtal. You can look up and research these on line. If you don't have the missing pieces, then I doubt they could be repaired.
Good luck to you on this.
Are you offering any classes for this Sir?
Sorry, no, I don't. No time or space to do that.
Wonderful ❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉
my mom has Old Abby brand China from early 1900's not sure date can you recommend. what repair material i should purchase to fix it thanks
There's no simple answer to your question. I would have to see the item in front of me for a good answer. It depends on whether the china is porous or non-porous, the condition of the china, whether it's been previously repaired, chips, missing or not, cracks that are not open or "apart". The china might have actually changes shape when it broke. Actually and entire page of questions that potentially come into play.
In the meantime, I recommend watching some more of my videos on china similar to yours. You might find some guidance there.
When do you use the A+B putty or when Milliput? (I’m a total beginner!)
A+B is a harder epoxy putty. I use it when I need to fill a large area or I need it to be very strong. Milliput is softer. I use it for finer fills (on top of A+B or to fill finer cracks. It gets into the tiny-est cracks. Milliput is easier to sand and file.
Martin, are the files you use of a particular hardness in order to not scratch ceramic/porcelain? I wish i have discovered your videos earlier. they are gold to me. Cheers
I'm happy to hear that you find these videos helpful.
The files are 6 inch steel files I get at harbor freight. It's a set of 12 for under $10. I go through a couple sets of these per year. They won't harm the glaze on most ceramics, if you're not too aggressive with your filing.
@@marsgitar thanks, appreciate the answer
Hello Martin, such a seamless repair, like there was never a chip. Excellent job and thanks for this invaluable videos.
I have one question that you might be able to help. I want to use sylmasta cold glaze pro with airbrush but can I use golden high flow medium to thin it down for airbrush use or I should buy the sylmasta thinning medium ? Thanks for all your advices.
The reason I asking is because sylmasta thinning medium is more than $30 and i already have golden’s high flow medium for acrylic paint so I might be able to save money.
No you cannot use Golden mediums to thin Sylmasta cold glaze. Goldens paints and mediums are water based. Sylmasta cold glaze system is solvent based. You really do need to use their solvent to get good results.
Hey Martin, great video! I wanted to know what brand of air brush you use for these types of jobs
I use Iwata brand airbrushes. I've several different ones but I use the HP-CH most of the time.
@@marsgitar Great thank you. I recently purchased the Novus scratch repair (and was glad to be able to find it in Canada). I was wondering, do you simply apply it/buff if with a rag at the end of the total process in order to restore the sheen?
@@sevanemmian Yes. The Novus kit is used as the final buff of the Cold Glaze. That's, after it's been fine-sanded with MicroMesh.
Hi Martin- I’ve been learning a lot from your videos and applying some of the steps to a small statue I’m attempting to fix. Thank you so much for sharing.
I was wondering - at what stage does the product gain it’s glossiness? It seems dull through the cold glaze process... does it become glossy when you apply the Novus scratch repair?
I'm glad you find my videos helpful.
The cold glaze has to be fine-sanded with MicroMesh, up to a grit of about 6000 to 8000, then polished with the Novus polish to bring it up to the proper brilliance. Good luck to you!
Perfect! I’ll let you know how it goes. Thank you!!
What kind of colors did you use to be glazed like original
I use Golden brand acrylic paints for the colors. I use Sylmasta brand Cold Glaze Pro II for the final glaze coats.
Would be great to know what this product is called and where to purchase it. Thank you
I assume you're asking about the epoxy putty. It's called "Rezolin A+B epoxy putty. It's available on line. Here's a link: www.aplusbputty.com/
The other filler product is called Milliput epoxy putty. Here, I'm using the Superfine White version of Milliput. It's available many places on line. Look it up.
@@marsgitar Many thanks, very kind of you. I imagined it was like Milliput but good to know.
@@marsgitar thanks for this very detailed tutorial. I was wondering if the Milliput epoxy putty can replace the Rezolin A+B epoxy putty in the first step. Thank you very much
@@miumiuli312 Yes, one could use Milliput instead of the A+B. I use the A+B first because it is stronger and harder than Milliput. I usually use the Milliput for small voids and crack filling.
@@marsgitar thanks for the quick response. Your videos are very helpful.
What is the name of the product you use fr restoration?
I use many. Which one are you referring to?
Perfect demonstration from start to finish. I'm going to use this method to prepare the chip in my china. Do you know if this has been dinnerware safe?
The method I use is safe for you to eat off of, but care must be taken that you don't harm the finish with eating utensils and cleaning (no dishwasher, microwave or oven use. hand wash only. No abrasives.) If the repair is at the edge you could probably get away with eating off of it. Otherwise: display/non-eating only.
Is this product foodsafe?
It won't hurt you to eat off this plate but you would eventually wreck the finish with wear by utensils and washing.