H09 fault common fault, usually it the PCB, on this occasion it was the pump. The test you carried out just shows power going to the pump, there a wire that sits on top off the pump modulate the pump and talk to the PCB, its there where you should be testing, and that wire where i think top off my head pin 8 and pin 9 on the pcb to the secound connection right hand side off the board. I don't take rhe complete punp few reasons tskes longer and on combi boiler you have to remove the cold water pipe which means you need to replace the flow adapter unless you want a recall a few weeks later. i just change the head. Good video.
@@hali5341 sometimes I do just the head, depends on the situation, but what you don’t see in the video is the body has been letting water seep out - barely takes any time at all changing the body to be honest. I always change the flow adapters when taking the cold pipe out anyway. Learnt that after taking the first one out 18 years ago 😂 and has been a habit ever since.
@@lostinthoughtscalminsilenc8167 on inspection with the pump head off, there had been a leak between the body and head with water seeping out. To be honest, nice quick easy change on these anyways. I’m not sure, this is the manufacturer part for the boiler
Good work there but I'm not sure the test you did was entirely valid. I thought that the main pump power lead always has 230V to it, even with no pump demand. The actual function of it is controlled by the other small cable. If you remove this cable, the pump should run continuously, regardless of pump demand. But you were right, pump was no good. Most likely the pump control board failed, but as far as I know, this can't be replaced. Yes, I always replace the whole housing. I always assume Worcester supply the pump with it for a reason.
@@martinwright7093 I thought that smaller lead was for modulation, but I’ll definitely check! And as you say, it worked 😂 I know the Vaillant fans work in that way but not sure about these pumps. I’d agree on the pump PCB, impeller was spinning freely etc. There was actually water seeping out between the pump head and body anyway and it wasn’t in the greatest condition - as you say, might aswell as it’s supplied with it and you can no longer buy head only for this model either! Thanks for watching!
So to confirm, if you remove modulating wire and pump does nothing, is it the pump or PCB? If you remove wire and pump begins to spin, is it pump or PCB? Thanks.
Get yourself some Croc clips bro. The whole boiler case is earthed just clamp to the boiler. As for the pump? No possible maintenance ie clean and check impeller after all systems are FOS. 😂
@@MickeyBlue-eyes I don’t get on with them, I’ve tried various types over the years and find these the best - I hate the long skinny ones too 😂 - impeller span freely etc, no debris, just knackered!
@@gazzagasco it varies for me. You could see where this one had water seeping from between the body and the pump head so worth replacing the whole bit. I’ve had it before where it’s continued to do so after changing the head and ruined the new one 😫
Sharing knowledge and experiences is always a positive thing. Keep it up👊🏼💪🏼
@@russellbaldry5095 thank you! Appreciate it! Thank you for taking the time to watch!
Classic with the hose 🤣 good video again
@@Hazed_77 😂🤦🏽♂️ we never learn 😂 thought it was good to keep it in the edit! Thanks for watching!
Keep up the great work 👍🏿
@@gasfitter78 thank you 🙏🏽 appreciate you taking the time to watch!
H09 fault common fault, usually it the PCB, on this occasion it was the pump. The test you carried out just shows power going to the pump, there a wire that sits on top off the pump modulate the pump and talk to the PCB, its there where you should be testing, and that wire where i think top off my head pin 8 and pin 9 on the pcb to the secound connection right hand side off the board. I don't take rhe complete punp few reasons tskes longer and on combi boiler you have to remove the cold water pipe which means you need to replace the flow adapter unless you want a recall a few weeks later. i just change the head. Good video.
@@hali5341 sometimes I do just the head, depends on the situation, but what you don’t see in the video is the body has been letting water seep out - barely takes any time at all changing the body to be honest. I always change the flow adapters when taking the cold pipe out anyway. Learnt that after taking the first one out 18 years ago 😂 and has been a habit ever since.
@RJHeating why do you need to change the flow adaptor when taking the cold pipe out?
@@ohmz55 normally it breaks. They’re so brittle and renowned for falling to pieces anytime they’re touched 😂
Why did you replace whole body? And I thought those Erps need those efficient pumps with rcds?
@@lostinthoughtscalminsilenc8167 on inspection with the pump head off, there had been a leak between the body and head with water seeping out. To be honest, nice quick easy change on these anyways. I’m not sure, this is the manufacturer part for the boiler
Good work there but I'm not sure the test you did was entirely valid. I thought that the main pump power lead always has 230V to it, even with no pump demand. The actual function of it is controlled by the other small cable. If you remove this cable, the pump should run continuously, regardless of pump demand. But you were right, pump was no good. Most likely the pump control board failed, but as far as I know, this can't be replaced. Yes, I always replace the whole housing. I always assume Worcester supply the pump with it for a reason.
@@martinwright7093 I thought that smaller lead was for modulation, but I’ll definitely check! And as you say, it worked 😂 I know the Vaillant fans work in that way but not sure about these pumps. I’d agree on the pump PCB, impeller was spinning freely etc. There was actually water seeping out between the pump head and body anyway and it wasn’t in the greatest condition - as you say, might aswell as it’s supplied with it and you can no longer buy head only for this model either! Thanks for watching!
So to confirm, if you remove modulating wire and pump does nothing, is it the pump or PCB? If you remove wire and pump begins to spin, is it pump or PCB? Thanks.
@ from my understanding - if you remove the modulation wire and pump spins at full speed, it’s the PCB at fault. Same as the test on a fan.
@@RJHeatingI thought with the fans if you removed the wire and it spins it’s the fan lol, or is that just for the ideal logics? So much confusion lol
Get yourself some Croc clips bro. The whole boiler case is earthed just clamp to the boiler. As for the pump? No possible maintenance ie clean and check impeller after all systems are FOS. 😂
@@MickeyBlue-eyes I don’t get on with them, I’ve tried various types over the years and find these the best - I hate the long skinny ones too 😂 - impeller span freely etc, no debris, just knackered!
Pump😊
@@gazzagasco nice easy fix!
@@RJHeating definitely pal, I only swapped the heads 😂
@@gazzagasco it varies for me. You could see where this one had water seeping from between the body and the pump head so worth replacing the whole bit. I’ve had it before where it’s continued to do so after changing the head and ruined the new one 😫