been watching a few of your videos. I like how you've gone through each and every adjustment. as far as this one goes, have you heard of "Steve Stafford" and *his* rake adjustment? If not, I can paste it in here as a comment. I have done it and the results are far superior to what the book shows. Also, to make some measurements a bit easier, I use allen wrenches when I can. Example, on the rake hook block and you need that 5/16", measure with the allen. Need to check that 1/4" gap on the C Lever and cross shaft... grab that 1/4 allen and see how it fits. I find that kind of stuff easier than using a tape measure.
I haven’t heard from Steve so if you pasted it wouldn’t be opposed, just more information for everyone out there! The Allen wrenches are a good idea I’ll have to start using that!
Step 1: Perform deck lift shaft adjustment. Adjustment 13 on page 3-16 in your service manual. This will position the deck lift shaft and the rake sweep shaft in the proper positions. Step 2: At zero degrees, position "C" lever so that its closest point is 1/4" from rake sweep shaft. To adjust, loosen set screw on rake trip shaft assy. While at 90 degrees to obtain this clearance. (If you loose the gap at the trip latch, don't worry. Don't open trip latch until you get done with step 7) Remember that the shaft must be adjusted in 1 turn increments. Step 3: At 45 degrees, raise out-of-range latch. Set rake sweep hook clearance above block to 5/16" by adjusting the link between the collar for the curved shoe and the rake hook sweep cam follower. (You should have changed 12-250040 link and roll pins if there was too much wear) This adjustment may cause you to have to adjust the out-of-range latch. Step 4: While still at 45 degrees, lower out-of-range latch. Pull the out-of-range reset lever at the rear of the pinsetter and while holding it in its rearmost position, rotate the middle cross brace until the short inner arm on the out-of-range blocking latch just drops over the pin in the cross brace. (The reset lever can be held in its most rearward position by placing the palm of your hand on the connection of the adjusting link and the collar for the curved shoe and holding this down) Tighten the bolts. The cross brace may be rotated by placing a pin punch through one of the roll pins in the center cross brace. Step 5: Position rake at rearmost position (180 degrees) and measure gap between rake sweep arms and cross member of frame. This gap should be 1/4" at the closest point of either arm. This gets the rake as far to the rear as possible without hitting the frame. Use the rake sweep link to obtain this clearance. Step 6: While still at 180 degrees, loosen rake lowering stop bracket and allow it to fall away from rake lift shaft. Position rake lift cam follower in low of rake lift cam and adjust the rake lowering stop bracket to obtain 1/16" between it and the lower side of the "V" lever. This position is determined by rotating the gear box by hand and watching the rake lift shaft until it has reached its furthest clockwise position. Step 7: Cycle machine to 135 degrees and set clearance between rake sweep hook and block to 1/16". Use your left hand rake stop bracket to obtain this clearance. (I usually back the machine up from 180 to 135 instead of running machine forward.) Loosen the right hand stop bracket and push the bracket and the rake support arm rearward until the left support arm just starts to lose contact with the left stop bracket. Tighten right hand bracket. Step 8: Loosen jam nut on shock absorber plunger and turn fixed stop counter-clockwise until rake trip latch WON'T latch. (You will have to trip it back to see if it won't latch.) When you reach that point where the trip latch won't latch, start turning the fixed stop clockwise until the latch just falls back into place. Turn fixed stop 1/2 turn more clockwise and lock jam nut into place. This will create a 1/32" gap (actually, slightly less) at the latch. Step 9: Position rake board between the 2,3 and the 4,5,6 spots on the rearward sweeping motion of the rake. Measure and record the height of the rake board. Continue to cycle pinsetter until the rake board is 1" behind the #1 pin spot on the forward motion of the rake. Measure and record the rake board height. Release the rake sweep hook and allow the rake to come forward. This will release the pressure off of the rake lift cam. Take the two measurements and find the amount of the difference between them. Divide the difference in half. If your first measurement is higher than your second measurement, add the divided difference to the second measurement and record it. Record this number as your "desired height". Loosen the six bolts holding the rake lift cam in place on the 1:1. Rotate the cam clockwise ever so slightly and tighten the bolts. Move rake rearward and latch back onto block so rake board is again 1" behind the #1 deck spot. Check to see if your rake height is at the "desired height" you wrote down before. If not, continue adjusting cam until you obtain that height. If you did this properly, you should be able to return to the spot between the 2,3 and the 4,5,6 spots on the rearward motion of the rake and obtain the exact same measurement. (If your second measurement was larger than the first, reverse the procedure by subtracting the divided difference from the measurement to obtain the "desired height". Then rotate the cam counter-clockwise to get the height.) Step 10: With rake at either position mentioned above (1 inch behind #1 deck spot on forward motion of rake or between the 2,3 and the 4,5,6 spots on the rearward motion) set rake board height to 1/4 of an inch by adjusting the rake lift rod from "V" lever to sweep arm. This clearance can be set to your preference, but I have found that 1/4 of an inch is a reliable height.
To add to this I, honestly, don't do step 1. For Step 9 I have it to where the 4:1 is pointing straight DOWN for the 1st measurement, and straight UP for the second one.
Just a suggestion. After turning off the Main Breaker, ALWAYS UNPLUG the Drop Cord. Never trust that the breaker has opened to kill all power. It only takes a second to unplug and keeps you from getting ground up.
Ngl my boss just handed me a book and said figure it out, i have no idea what the actual fuck im doing rn, even with the videos the terminology and everything just doesnt click for me, i feel like i dont even know what to even ask this is all alien tech to me😂
Hey one step at a time with these things, nobody learns these over night. The first few chapters in the book are helpful with learning the function and the terminology, but that’s why I make the videos. To hopefully give people a better idea of what’s going on. There’s plenty of people on Facebook groups that can help, hell I still ask them every once in a while. Just know there are people and resources that can help you with this stuff
Need a question answered if possible. I have oor installed or out of range kits and I’m having issue with it keeping latched because of pressure on the hook. My question is do I need to make the oor kit not latch while doing this adjustment then go back in and adjust it once I’m complete?
You want to make sure your OOR adjustment is correct before you install the kit. Then once that’s right install the kit and follow the instructions for that.
@@shawnmbowling yea, I know the first thing in this video stated the hook for the rake and that’s what I believe needs adjusted corrected correct? I just got done adjusting hopefully everything works thanks for the awesome videos
I got a question on the adjustment, I’ve heard that the bell crank that goes against the curved shoe, should have play in it when at 180 and have no pressure against the shoe. Do you know a way to adjust that so there isn’t pressure against that curved shoe to cause premature bearing failure on the hook selector?
That’s a good question, our machine and the machines I’ve seen across the country don’t have that curved shoe(if I’m thinking of the right thing) so I don’t have the answer to that, but I will ask my grandfather and see if he does. If not maybe try Facebook groups someone there is bound to have a answer
And watching the video further, it looks like the Main Breaker in ON!! Yikes. NEVER rely on the low voltage switches to turn the machine Off when you are working on the machine. One other option we use when electrical troubleshooting is performed, is the simply Unplug the Motor and unplug the accelerator. Nothing can move on the machine Also, while sometimes you must do 'Hot" electrical work, it is Best to have everything unplugged and de-energized using an ohm meter to troubleshoot.
Dude, make your life easier, get a; head lamp, fingerless glove light or eye glass frame type light... you can have light without messing with a handheld. Good work!
Do your starshields still have any internals to them? If they do, are they the Astro II variant with the light tubes and reflectors or is it the Astroline one with the color filters?
Yes they still have the internals to them, but unfortunately our owner chooses not to use them. We have a piece of foam board like material with designs to cover them. I'm pretty sure they are just single white color bulbs, but that's just what I've been told
FOR EXAMPLE? : i Am interested in Getting a "CUSTOM BUiLT FUNCTION OPERATIONAL PINSETTER" Cause I've Already Completed a 20ft. LANE in My Basement , So Now i Need a PiNSETTER To Complete My Lane.
Holy shit, Being from Australia the size always puts me off makes things a little harder but that spanner trick will make life so much easier haha
been watching a few of your videos. I like how you've gone through each and every adjustment. as far as this one goes, have you heard of "Steve Stafford" and *his* rake adjustment? If not, I can paste it in here as a comment. I have done it and the results are far superior to what the book shows. Also, to make some measurements a bit easier, I use allen wrenches when I can. Example, on the rake hook block and you need that 5/16", measure with the allen. Need to check that 1/4" gap on the C Lever and cross shaft... grab that 1/4 allen and see how it fits. I find that kind of stuff easier than using a tape measure.
I haven’t heard from Steve so if you pasted it wouldn’t be opposed, just more information for everyone out there! The Allen wrenches are a good idea I’ll have to start using that!
out of curiosity, have you tried the adjustment?
Step 1: Perform deck lift shaft adjustment. Adjustment 13 on page 3-16 in your service manual. This will position the deck lift shaft and the rake sweep shaft in the proper positions.
Step 2: At zero degrees, position "C" lever so that its closest point is 1/4" from rake sweep shaft. To adjust, loosen set screw on rake trip shaft assy. While at 90 degrees to obtain this clearance. (If you loose the gap at the trip latch, don't worry. Don't open trip latch until you get done with step 7) Remember that the shaft must be adjusted in 1 turn increments.
Step 3: At 45 degrees, raise out-of-range latch. Set rake sweep hook clearance above block to 5/16" by adjusting the link between the collar for the curved shoe and the rake hook sweep cam follower. (You should have changed 12-250040 link and roll pins if there was too much wear) This adjustment may cause you to have to adjust the out-of-range latch.
Step 4: While still at 45 degrees, lower out-of-range latch. Pull the out-of-range reset lever at the rear of the pinsetter and while holding it in its rearmost position, rotate the middle cross brace until the short inner arm on the out-of-range blocking latch just drops over the pin in the cross brace. (The reset lever can be held in its most rearward position by placing the palm of your hand on the connection of the adjusting link and the collar for the curved shoe and holding this down) Tighten the bolts. The cross brace may be rotated by placing a pin punch through one of the roll pins in the center cross brace.
Step 5: Position rake at rearmost position (180 degrees) and measure gap between rake sweep arms and cross member of frame. This gap should be 1/4" at the closest point of either arm. This gets the rake as far to the rear as possible without hitting the frame. Use the rake sweep link to obtain this clearance.
Step 6: While still at 180 degrees, loosen rake lowering stop bracket and allow it to fall away from rake lift shaft. Position rake lift cam follower in low of rake lift cam and adjust the rake lowering stop bracket to obtain 1/16" between it and the lower side of the "V" lever. This position is determined by rotating the gear box by hand and watching the rake lift shaft until it has reached its furthest clockwise position.
Step 7: Cycle machine to 135 degrees and set clearance between rake sweep hook and block to 1/16". Use your left hand rake stop bracket to obtain this clearance. (I usually back the machine up from 180 to 135 instead of running machine forward.) Loosen the right hand stop bracket and push the bracket and the rake support arm rearward until the left support arm just starts to lose contact with the left stop bracket. Tighten right hand bracket.
Step 8: Loosen jam nut on shock absorber plunger and turn fixed stop counter-clockwise until rake trip latch WON'T latch. (You will have to trip it back to see if it won't latch.) When you reach that point where the trip latch won't latch, start turning the fixed stop clockwise until the latch just falls back into place. Turn fixed stop 1/2 turn more clockwise and lock jam nut into place. This will create a 1/32" gap (actually, slightly less) at the latch.
Step 9: Position rake board between the 2,3 and the 4,5,6 spots on the rearward sweeping motion of the rake. Measure and record the height of the rake board. Continue to cycle pinsetter until the rake board is 1" behind the #1 pin spot on the forward motion of the rake. Measure and record the rake board height. Release the rake sweep hook and allow the rake to come forward. This will release the pressure off of the rake lift cam. Take the two measurements and find the amount of the difference between them. Divide the difference in half. If your first measurement is higher than your second measurement, add the divided difference to the second measurement and record it. Record this number as your "desired height". Loosen the six bolts holding the rake lift cam in place on the 1:1. Rotate the cam clockwise ever so slightly and tighten the bolts. Move rake rearward and latch back onto block so rake board is again 1" behind the #1 deck spot. Check to see if your rake height is at the "desired height" you wrote down before. If not, continue adjusting cam until you obtain that height. If you did this properly, you should be able to return to the spot between the 2,3 and the 4,5,6 spots on the rearward motion of the rake and obtain the exact same measurement. (If your second measurement was larger than the first, reverse the procedure by subtracting the divided difference from the measurement to obtain the "desired height". Then rotate the cam counter-clockwise to get the height.)
Step 10: With rake at either position mentioned above (1 inch behind #1 deck spot on forward motion of rake or between the 2,3 and the 4,5,6 spots on the rearward motion) set rake board height to 1/4 of an inch by adjusting the rake lift rod from "V" lever to sweep arm. This clearance can be set to your preference, but I have found that 1/4 of an inch is a reliable height.
To add to this I, honestly, don't do step 1. For Step 9 I have it to where the 4:1 is pointing straight DOWN for the 1st measurement, and straight UP for the second one.
Just a suggestion. After turning off the Main Breaker, ALWAYS UNPLUG the Drop Cord. Never trust that the breaker has opened to kill all power. It only takes a second to unplug and keeps you from getting ground up.
Ngl my boss just handed me a book and said figure it out, i have no idea what the actual fuck im doing rn, even with the videos the terminology and everything just doesnt click for me, i feel like i dont even know what to even ask this is all alien tech to me😂
Hey one step at a time with these things, nobody learns these over night. The first few chapters in the book are helpful with learning the function and the terminology, but that’s why I make the videos. To hopefully give people a better idea of what’s going on. There’s plenty of people on Facebook groups that can help, hell I still ask them every once in a while. Just know there are people and resources that can help you with this stuff
12:51 I understand!
😂😂
Need a question answered if possible. I have oor installed or out of range kits and I’m having issue with it keeping latched because of pressure on the hook. My question is do I need to make the oor kit not latch while doing this adjustment then go back in and adjust it once I’m complete?
You want to make sure your OOR adjustment is correct before you install the kit. Then once that’s right install the kit and follow the instructions for that.
@@shawnmbowling yea, I know the first thing in this video stated the hook for the rake and that’s what I believe needs adjusted corrected correct? I just got done adjusting hopefully everything works thanks for the awesome videos
I got a question on the adjustment, I’ve heard that the bell crank that goes against the curved shoe, should have play in it when at 180 and have no pressure against the shoe. Do you know a way to adjust that so there isn’t pressure against that curved shoe to cause premature bearing failure on the hook selector?
That’s a good question, our machine and the machines I’ve seen across the country don’t have that curved shoe(if I’m thinking of the right thing) so I don’t have the answer to that, but I will ask my grandfather and see if he does. If not maybe try Facebook groups someone there is bound to have a answer
Any idea why occasionally the rake sweeps prior to the bowler shooting spare shot?
For us it’s been either the scoring system sends a random signal, the reset button is stuck pushed in, or the time delay is going bad
And watching the video further, it looks like the Main Breaker in ON!! Yikes. NEVER rely on the low voltage switches to turn the machine Off when you are working on the machine. One other option we use when electrical troubleshooting is performed, is the simply Unplug the Motor and unplug the accelerator. Nothing can move on the machine Also, while sometimes you must do 'Hot" electrical work, it is Best to have everything unplugged and de-energized using an ohm meter to troubleshoot.
Dude, make your life easier, get a; head lamp, fingerless glove light or eye glass frame type light...
you can have light without messing with a handheld.
Good work!
Been thinking about the finger lights lol but headlight is only when I’m not recording videos cuz it’s a GoPro head mount I use
Do your starshields still have any internals to them? If they do, are they the Astro II variant with the light tubes and reflectors or is it the Astroline one with the color filters?
Yes they still have the internals to them, but unfortunately our owner chooses not to use them. We have a piece of foam board like material with designs to cover them. I'm pretty sure they are just single white color bulbs, but that's just what I've been told
How Much Do You Charge To Build a "PiNSETTER" For People Trying To Build a Small Bowling Lane in There House
Well what do you mean by build a “pinsetter”?
@@shawnmbowling BUiLD ( As in Customized ) & Then Sell
To be honest I haven’t done that, mainly because I don’t own the center so none of the parts are mine to sell
FOR EXAMPLE? : i Am interested in Getting a "CUSTOM BUiLT FUNCTION OPERATIONAL PINSETTER" Cause I've Already Completed a 20ft. LANE in My Basement , So Now i Need a PiNSETTER To Complete My Lane.
I would check out groups and online for bowling alleys that are closing