BMW S65 E90 E93 E92 M3 Throttle Actuator DIY
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2016
- Well here's your DIY for replacing your throttle actuator gears. Total time from start to finish was 4 hours. I'd say more like 3 hours since it took me an hours of explaining how to do the tutorial. I can rip everything apart, rebuild, and back together in an hour now. YES 1 HOUR!! This will work for the M5 and M6 also for the actuator rebuild part
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I used this video as my guide to complete this repair on both of my throttle bodies. Thank you for all of the time and effort you put into helping people like me afford to have a wonderful car like this.
No problem man. I have other DIY's coming now that Im back to making videos again. This video has seemed to help a LOT of people so far. Glad it all worked out for ya
Being a technicain, i think it qould help of you would ask a guy oening a cnc machine to make some aloy or even stainless steel gears for this, obviously plastic will wear quicker and also put some gear grease on them to make them last longer. Also check the rest of the whole throttle body to see if everything is moving freely to overcome any unnecessary resistance on the actuator... but this is a great video!
Great job explaining this and being so detailed with the actuator assembly! Thank you.
Outstanding! I particularly liked the fact that you spoke to the tools you used to do the job. Gave me the encouragement to take this job on.
Job isn't that bad. Looks intimating but once you're in there its easy peasy
Brilliant tutorial my friend - very comprehensive description! Thanks for taking the time to show how it's done :)
Awesome video! I make videos like this, and they are not easy. It is very time-consuming. You’re doing a great favor to all M owners. I was looking at and M3 but with the throttle actuators and the rod bearings, not sure I will go that direction but it is a lot of fun to watch your videos. Keep it up!
Thank you for making this video. I followed your steps and I got my throttle actuator issue sorted.
+Dean Krstevski Nice!!! Glad it worked out for ya. Saved ya some money. No go grab a beer with the money you saved.
Good video. Note: I'm handy but not a mechanic. About 10 months ago got error code for bank 1throttle actuator. Ordered new gears (for both) and took me about 3 hours in total. Note: I swapped bank 1 and bank 2 over just incase error persisted and wanted to see if it moved. Unfortunately it did and not surprisingly this time bank 2. Brought a new actuator and replaced faulty one in bank 2. This time took me about an hour. Now, 10 months later, I have error on bank 1 (old actuator). In hindsight, if you need to replace 1, you might as well replace both.
Thanks for the diy! I just changed out bank 1 today and literally took me about 2 hours from start to finish.
+Christopher Nguyen Sweet!! Glad it helped you out. Easy stuff man!!
Thank you so much for all the info. Was able to knock mine out in 45 minuets as I followed along! Really easy job can’t believe they charge so much for this.
When you were disassembling the parts to get at the TBAs did you remove the spark plug covers on both sides like RDDC did? I am assuming this was for more accessibility?
That 45 minutes should include that. When I did my last one I had the complete car apart in 23 minutes. So 45 minutes is easily doable if you have everything ready to roll
Really good step by step guide. Thank you👍
Can't thank you enough for taking the time and sharing, thanks buddy. Big thumbs up!
+Mafioso Thanks!! I do it for the ///M community
Thanks for taking the time to do this man!
+Dr Pookums Hey not a problem. Thanks for watching.
"Oo oo I dont know what that was" lmao dropped something. Awesome video. Very, very useful. Thank you.
Thanks man...I guess I didn't need that part HAHA!
Just doing mine now. Your detail for winding the spring, for the two long contacts and for driving the bushing back on was most helpful. Thanks.
nice video
i have a question
i can’t push my air box in the throttle tight, should i replace the rubber mount ? thanks
FYI the thick spacer I found easier to use a 10 mm reamer and a BRM 10 mm flex hone . This make spacer easy to install without tapping on gear shaft . Overall play still good .
With this method and with much knowledge and experience with the throttle actuators my question is, If you had to do this all over again what would you have done the same and or changed? Thanksn
I'm using these same gears and my press-on washer just slides loosely over the new shaft. Any suggestions? I can't get the company to answer the phone
feel better about doing this myself now.. thanks!!
Couldn't of done it without your vid. 👍
Thanks Tim! Much appreciated man. I'm thinking of doing an updated video of this. I have to replace my passenger side one. And it would be good to see how those brass gears held up. The board has gone bad.
@@RDDC_Official sorry to hear that bro.
Two hour job, no biggie
Nice video man. It's well laid out and informative.
Thanks. It probably could be better but at least a video is out there now instead of an internet write up
Great video again. Would love to see more engine mechanics, replacing/upgrading different parts. Would love to learn and use the skills on one day my very own E9X M3.
+Tommy-Lee Davies Thanks! All in a days work...maybe two days work :)
Hi, excellent your channel. I have a question if you can help me.
I have a new actuator and the other one working well but with the gears worn out. my query is, if the same gear that shows in the video is different to the gearboxes of the new actuator should work well? I'm afraid of burning the offset since it's different from the original. greetings hopefully help me
Solid work. I would have loved to see the engine fired up. The money shot. 😉
I did this procedure with same parts, when pressing the spacer onto the shaft it is very important to back up the shaft on the gear side or you will damage the gear as I did and the depth of how far the spacer is pressed on is critical, it must have end play when installed. If you look close at the new gear/shaft you will see the shaft is recessed into the gear so if you press or hammer the spacer on it will damage the gear you might not see it but it will be damaged.
+James Whiteside yeah you can't bang on it too hard. But it's the only way to get that thing on and off. My gears weren't factory gears so they should be fine. Much thicker. Been running fine every since
Link to the kit you bought doesn't work. Can you update? Also, what error code were you throwing before this repair?
Love the video, I would have notched the gear to hold the spring.. or drilled a hold to allow the spring catch to go into something.
Thought about it. The rebuilt actuator is still going strong too. If it craps out its definitely the board but it will give me a chance to inspect the aftermarket gears to see how they held up and report back
Awesome Video , thats going to be so helpful for when I do my S65 engine , cheers
+darryn rouxelle No problem. That's what I made it for!
Great video like the replacement
Thanks so much for this video, really helpful. Debating whether to do it myself or not, though I was planning to just get another two new actuators. Really appreciate your time.
+Justin To man its super easy. Follow my DIY and you'll be set. 2 people have already followed it and had success in 2.5 hours
Are there differences between the actuators for Bank 1 and 2? Or I can just buy two of the same? Also, should i expect any codes when starting the car after this install?
+Justin To both the same part number. When in the car one is turned up and the other down
Thanks again man, this was amazing, just replaced both actuators this week! Car has 85k on it and was wigging out with limp mode and codes everywhere. Took me 3.5 hours with my wife helping now and then. Couple of things I noted 1) the screws of the rear-most throttle bodies are a huge pain in the ass to get too. Any recommendations if i ever need to access those again? 2) the front tubing and connector attached to the front of the underside of the plenum is a BITCH to take off 3) i broke the plastic brackets off a couple of the connectors not even realizing they were attached to anything. One was the rear-most one on the left of the rail, and one was attached underneath the rail. I think they'll be fine if they are unattached and free, i can't do a whole lot about it now. 4) if you don't pay attention when putting things back, there are two connectors that are very similar near the front of the rail. One is colored green inside the connector, and one yellow. The yellow one goes to the plenum. The other one... doesn't. BMW wanted $900 bucks labor, and that's after a $1000 discount offered because it is a known m3 issue. Money towards my exhaust... :)
+Justin To awesome!!! I broke some come too man. It gets so hot under there the plastic becomes brittle. But I noticed the plugs stay in snug. No biggie. The car needs some battle wounds. Actuator screws are a bitch. I use a small magnet to get them into place. The front and rear plenum just suck. Hard to get to. I put in place and used a long screw driver to push up and pop back into place. But end result...not too bad. You got it done and got paid...win win for you!!! Now...my payment for the DIY is $999.99 haha! Good job man!
Well done man, great video!
+SpartanA31xx Thanks!!
great video RDDC.
+liverpuul25 Thanks. I hope people get some use put of it
Wow what a great video. Thanks! I had printed out procedures from All Data at my auto school but you really made it way more understandable.
Unfortunately I think I have a bad board too. Changed the gears but can't clear the code (P157F). Guess I'll have to get a whole new one, now $639 at Turner. It's like they've been buying them in bulk.
+Lou Zeidberg That price actually went up. Was $580. That's after I paid $980 they dropped the price haha! Go figure!
RDDC found a place to rebuild in the US.
us-shop.bba-reman.com/shop/parts/bmw-throttle-actuator-repair-2/
I think I may try it as now the upgraded gears are in there. If they can fix the board then maybe it won't fail again.
+Lou Zeidberg that's awesome. My rebuilt one is still working fine. Trust me, easier than you think
Just subbed. Great channel and thanks for the help!
+Pardeep R Thanks! Much appreciated
beautiful
What color is your BMW?
Would you recommend putting some grease in the actuators? I think that would help preventing wear and probably make things perform better too
There is a bot if grease in there already. Not much but even at my work with industrial gears we don't use but a dab of grease. So I think that's normal. Too much grease isn't always a good think. But if the gears don't have any one it I think it wouldn't hurt if a little was applied
great video!
thanks a bunch man!!!
Excellent DIY Video!!! Really good details!!! Thanks for making this!!! Was chasing down DTC Code 2807 Pedal value sensor plausibility, which kept putting the car in limp mode. Just replaced both actuators and so far, so good... Thanks Again!!!
Hey thanks! Much appreciated!!
great job dude
+liverpuul25 Thanks man!! Much appreciated
I’m literally having the same problem with my m3. I hope this works
It should. But a few things. If you threw the Christmas lights the first time and the car wont move then it's most likely broken gears. If you threw codes several times that cleared and even a final time that the car was still drivable in limp mode....then it's a bad board. Regardless the throttle actuators are down to $600 each at Turner Motorsports.
Nice work
+Michael Coffey Thanks!! Much appreciated
need this in my life
Great tutorial. Now that you've got hindsight, is there any way to test the circuit board for failure prior to tear down? Maybe the second Bank 2 code you saw when you pulled codes?
+Shawn Pier I'm not seeing anything. I was hoping my BMW code reader could actuate or send a signal but nothing. How I tested it was a bad board was to put the board on Bank 1 and see if that bank tripped codes...and it did. Now that I will have a spare actuator perhaps I can hook it up to a power source and take some measurements on a bench. People say the MOSFET IC's go bad, which I can order new ones but this is not 100% proven as some have replaced the chips and still have issues with the board.
Can the throttle body actuator cause misfiring, and causes the engine to go into limp mode
That Im not sure of. I'd assume the injectors or ignition coils first. From reading the forums misfiring is not a system of throttle actuators.
Excellent..excellent! Video.
Thanks Shane. Hopefully more DIY videos will be a bit better in the future.
RDDC, good video, thanks.
kinda my me dizzy all the camera not focusing but i'm ok now lol.
let me ask you, when these TA go bad, how can you tell if it's the gears or the board?
and i'm looking at a 2011 m3 now, that has 146xxx miles on it that seems to run good, if not real good (i cant really compare, its the first M car i've driven) anyways my question is, should I just order this rebuild kit and replace the gears like you did, or just let it run till i see signs for failure?
what signs did you have that made you do this?
Ok if it's the board the problem will clear with a code clearer and go away. Might come back months down the road. Then happens again and each time it's less time between clearing codes. If a gear breaks, most likely the code will not disappear or comes immediately right back and your car will be stuck in limp mode until you replace it
Why is this good, that the round wheel have metal small center that connects to the half wheel?
I was only testing it to see if the metal wheel latest longer than the plastic wheel. I did take it apart and when the board failed and found the plastic gear slightly cracked. It wasnt any better or worse than original
Boss man thank you !
Where do you recommend to buy the parts ? I have them replaced with parts from Poland but still the problem is there, it seems even worse
Turner Motorsports.
I just did this and after I'm now constantly in limp mode. Before I had intermittent. Getting more faults now which includes DSC and start assist. Any advice? Could I have left something disconnected?
Check your connections. One guy had the same thing and he didnt plug in a plug all the way. I believe under the intake he said.
BMW should be held responsible for a recall on these actuators. This is costly to do time and money wise. No reason the owners should go thru this hassle and cost to repair a shit idea that obviously has failed multiple times. Pure garbage. I love the way the car looks and sounds, good performance overall but shit, this kinda stuff just makes me not wanna spend my money on one. Good vid and good work man, thumbs up.
Yeah, 140,000 miles isn't good enough for some people.
@@bbrf033 most of the ones I've seen and been told by owners happen at 60k miles. Should not happen at all, really bad design and materials used. If you got lucky and they lasted to 140k then good for you. Obviously there is an issue. A very expensive issue. My opinion, I respect yours.
1970PMD got mines at 73k
@@abelbeltran5345 e60 100k km so 60k miles
@@1970PMD How much would it have cost BMW to make the gears from brass or aluminum? Seems awful cheap for such an expensive car.
Hi there. What are the symptoms that the car shows when the actuators are damaged?
Thanks
Christmas tree lights on the dash. Clearing the code but comes right back. Codes won't clear at all.
Thanks Big help!
30k + views and only 517 likes is straight fuckery. This is a well-detailed instruction video.
It's all good. As long as people are able to get the work done, which most have expressed they have successfully. So it's a win win in my book
Shyne 1337 agree
RDDC love that humbleness!!!!!! Great job bro
I just followed your instructions. It snaps back like yours. But when i put the center gear in it will not snap back and gets stuck? Is that normal?
It should move freely
Hi can replace new battery without registering it cause limp mode, and false reading on acutator fault
I have replaced my battery twice and not coded it
@@RDDC_Official i see.. i ended up replacing my TA both new with new battery
I have an e92 M3, 2009. I do not have any lights, but would like to get these gears and replace them, just for sanity. It does ask me if I have 23 teeth or 25? Do I need to get them out and count them? Or is every e92 the same? How long have these new gears lasted so far? There are a lot of gears out there. Don't know which one to get.
Ok some good questions. I do not know the teeth count. I didn't know there was a difference since the TA you buy is from 2008-2013, all have the same part numbers. Ok, experience with the gears I put in. When I replaced the TA after a bad board, this was the one I replaced the gear on. The gear had micro cracks after like 20k miles. I'm just throwing it out there from experience, just pay the money for new TA's. No you do not need to replace both at the same time. You will just have to do this all over again once the second one fails. Thankfully it's a 45 minute job for me now start to finish. So I'm not recommending replacing the gears unless they are BMW (Siemens) gears that go to the unit from the factory.
What brand are these gears? There's like 20 different manufacturers with the same "looking" gears. Let us know, thanks!
I'm not sure man. The box is just white. I pulled it back apart and noticed one had a slight crack in it. So I'm not recommending that type.
How long did the 23 teeth gear last? Until you had to replace the whole thing
Like 8 years
anyone know how much are they the whole throttle actuator both banks?
+Jesus Martinez someone sent me a link that sells them for about $700 taxes included for each. So for two around $1500 shipped.
This looks pretty straightforward job but if it's the circuit board that's gone bad that means you have to replace the whole unit? It seems there's no replacement available
Yup
would it be easier if you replace the whole unit? For peace of mind in the long run.
Looking back when I did this the throttle bodies were $1200 each. Today these things cost about $400 each. So yes, it's better to do a complete swap instead of repair these days
Would a shower cap on each bank work better than rags in the throttle bodies?
+kontradictions I think anything clean would work. Just make sure not to get anything lodged in between the flaps
Great video. Clear instructions and gives me confidence to do this myself. Do you have the name of the company making the replacement gears? The ebay link above is a dead end.
Hey thanks. But no I dont have the name of the company. Are you sure it's your gears? I'd say about 95% report it's the board.
Hey man I have a big question my car is a BMW m3 e93 it jumped into limp mode one day and I parked the car the next day I turned the car on and it was fine when I scanned it code u1151 came up that was it then the next day it didn't jump into limp mode it just said increased emission again I shut it off I didnt have the scanner to check what other code it was some people tell me it's the battery going bad some people tell me just to change the actuator it's my first BMW so I'm trying to get as much knowledge as possible if you can get back to me I'll really appreciate it
So I did some research on the u1151 code. I can't find much but what you said. Some people say battery some people say actuators. I need to do a video on the code reader I use...Creator C110 from ebay. If will spit out bmw codes instead of generic codes. I will say this....what your car is doing is what mine did before the actuators went out with it being a bad board. The car wigs out, turn it off, back on , and codes go away. Mine did this twice before it crapped out. So I'd seriously start looking for parts now. Thats what I did and still had to buy a new actuator
Nice work. Curious what kind of camera did you use? It does a nice job autofocusing quickly where you want it to
My basic cellphone. I have to replace my other one so thinking of doing a better updated video soon. My car is in the shop getting the bearings done as we speak
@@RDDC_Official oh wow. great phone. i need to get my rod bearings done as well.
@@RDDC_Official can you tell what signs you had that made you get them done?
Would you recommend that the battery be disconnected prior to changing out the throttle body actuators? I am always worried about doing this and then having the FRM module fry on me...
I did not disconnect the battery. The connectors you are disconnecting have no power to them unless the car is on. I've done this job several times now and never disconnected the battery.
@@RDDC_Official Thank you so much
Great Job👌☝️👍
Thanks
Just replaced both Throttle Actuators, the codes are gone But now I have 1 New code which is 2765 DME: Vanos Valve. Inlet. Bank 2 , activation.
Do you have an idea of what that can be?
The original part is PPA-GF30 which is Polyphthalamide with 30% fiber-glass reinforcement... I don't see any materials marking on the new stuff.
Thanks for adding in the info.
well made DIY
+Harish Seethapathi Thanks!!
Found out using a little bit of Vaseline on all that rubber helps make things slide together better
Nice video man, you teach well. Do you know if the V10 60 M5 actuator is the same way ? I noticed the kits for it do not seem to include the 'bolt
yours did.
The acuators are same for the v8 and v10. Most kits come with gears only. As the poster said, buy the kit with the shafts already installed. FYI, the kits with built in shafts usually come as a single sety; you have to buy two. The gear only kits come in pairs
I'm seeing more boards fail than the gears. Even after like 140k miles my gears still looked ok. Not new but not enough to cause a fail. The board is the biggest culprit. It heats up and fails.
RDDC are you saying its better to just invest in NEW throttle actuators 800 both??
I did. I know I rebuilt the other one but the board has failed now in it too. So I bought a new one like I did the drivers side. That company where you get it for $360 each and you return your core is a deal. I'll be ripping my car back apart soon to show wear on the rebuilt gears, if any. I'm curious to see how they held up. Just in case those who had bad gears want to rebuild them.
RDDC awesome intel RDDC; what’s the company where you can get the TA’s discounted if you return your core? Thinking about trying to tackle this & exploring options.
Is this the same as a S85 engine?
Should be...same unit. Same part number I believe
what instructional manual with circled connectors were you referring to?
It should have a link under the video. A user has circled the connectors on a pic.
@@RDDC_Official For some reason, and maybe it is because of my computer settings, the pictures are very fuzzy on that link and I cannot get them to become clear. Any idea(s) what I may be doing wrong? And I was wondering if it was necessary to remove the spark plug/coil covers on both sides in order to remove the intake manifold as it seems that there might be enough room for accessing the manifold's hoses and velocity stack screws?
@@craigg8185 I removes mine. They literally just pop off. It's a rubber grommet holding them on. You may or may not need to do this if you can access the intake screws to the throttle body. That's really the main reason for removal
143k miles on this engine? I can see the typical bmw V8 leaks on your engine. valve covers, front cam drive chain covers.... actucally pretty good if those are original seals. leaves? they look wet. valley pan or coolant pipe leak?
+fast4d1 Looked like oil on the leaves. Still trying to figure out how the leaves got in there! But after an inspection the passenger side valve cover seals needs to be replaced
Hey bro do you recommend changing the whole thing or only the gears Thank you for your time
The whole thing. The prices are cheap enough these days. I think they are down to a few hundred bucks a piece.
@@RDDC_Official thanks bro I appreciate it
Thanks for the vid ! How many miles had the car when you make the replacement ?
Thanks :-)
140k my first one, 169k my second one. Not bad considering I hear others going half as many miles
@@RDDC_Official Bank 1 failed at 43000km or 26000 miles!!! Replaced gears only, codes did not clear right away - hoping they will clear tomorrow. Otherwise, whole TA must be replaced :(
Hi please could you let us know which company you sourced the gears?
the gears you sourced came complete with shafts as you described in your previous video.
will be appreciated
+etienne wilson the link is in the description.
RDDC thanks for that really appreciate the correspondence.You used an app in the first video to give details on errors/faults ie think you searched the code on the apo.please could you provide the app details
RDDC thanks for that really appreciate the correspondence.You used an app in the first video to give details on errors/faults ie think you searched the code on the apo.please could you provide the app details
Just wondering how long did it take to pull both out then replace them, I will be doing mine soon as preventative maintenance as the last thing I need is to go into limp home mode in the middle of the Nullarbor .
4 Hours and that was videoing too and reading the forum post on how to do it. So I'm thinking someone can do it in 3 hours
+Hooray4boobies The links are in the descriptionof the DIY video. Car has been working great since the fix. The gears were $180 for both sets
I have a 2010 E90 M3. with 81k miles. Had code 27BB (Fuel system Lambda - bank2), 2B16 (throttle controller monitoring -bank 2). Car went in limp mode. I replaced the throttle actuator gears with the Odometer gears replacements on both bank 1 and 2 actuators. Re-installed. Note that one of the actuators (bank 1) had been replaced by previous owner at 40k, but bank 2 actuator was original (81k miles).
I put the older actuator (2009 date code) on bank 1 and the 2014 date code actuator on bank 2 (both with new odometer gears). Now I’m getting codes 2B21 (throttle pre-drive check bank 1) and car in limp mode permanently (doesn’t go away after clearing code). I also get code 5E19 (DSC ECU internal. Serial peripheral interphase (SPI) ID request not accepted. Coil outlet valve shorted front right…).
Is this just a wiring/connector that isn’t making good contact, or what do you think?
Did any of the connectors look broke or not snapped in all the way? Could be a wiring fault. Could be something more
RDDC all connectors looked in good shape. I figured my next step is to tear it apart again and triple check the connectors to make sure they are all tight
Did you ever figure it out? Having similar codes with 5E19 and occasionally my car will go into limp mode but it won’t last long. 2008 M3 here.
I’ve read forum posts that say even if you replace the gears they will still fail not long after because it’s the electronics that go bad. Guys were saying to just put brand new actuators in. Thoughts on this?
Thats 100% right
RDDC thanks for confirming
No problem
I just bought used e90 m3 with 89k miles, and have engine malfunction light. Code is P161F and P0303, so throttle actuator may be the problem. I will buy the same parts from the same vendor. Is yours running alright since the fix?
+hideki mine is running like brand new since the fix
Just a quick question I have rebuilt both my throttle actuators fitted them back into the car and it’s still flagging the same fault and limp mode I have done it step by step as you have and am left very confused why it’s still the same when re assembling the throttle actuators I noticed the gears would spin in there own shaft is that normal thanks in advance
Your boards are bad.
Did you say that the gear spins on which shaft?
It failed electrically or the gears are not installed right
I'm at 25k miles now, should i replace the gears as soon as possible before the board breaks.
Thanks
+Garrett M I think you're good probably to at least 50k....but I've heard of them failing before then.
Great video, just had code p0638 come on when I was driving home from work. Ordered 1 TBA for bank 1 but I'm questioning if I should get a 2nd
and for bank 2? I kinda want to get as much life out of it lol
Also why are the gears plastic?! Wtf I expected more from bmw
That was my theory, was trying to get as much life out of the second one as possible. It lasted any additional 30,000 miles. And you dont have to buy two at once. The job isnt that complicated to do again
Not sure. Timing chain gears in old vehicles were a nylon/plastic and they held up decent. On the TA's I see more boards fail than gears. But that's me. You'll hear varied opinions
@@RDDC_Official yea doesnt look that bad, I had an Acura rsx back in the day and had to take the transmission out twice because I knocked teeth off the final drive and thought it was a bad clutch at first. That was not fun... let me tell you.
RDDC How do you go about changing the board?
you know you don't have to take two bolts or nuts of the ///M v8 intake box right?
Well I knew that after I took them off 😂😂
@@RDDC_Official lol, I have done that rookie mistake first time repairing the throttle actuators
So in the beginning you said that the board went bad, how much is it to replace that part?
That's a whole new actuator :( Yup...$1,000. I ordered one from Tuner Motorsports Next Day Air. Will ship out Monday and be here Tuesday. I couldn't find anyone that sold boards separate. Talk about shitty luck. And these "repair" places you have to send yours in, wait, then they send it back. I dont have time for all that. So I just ordered a brand new one and it has a 2 year warranty. Only crappy thing is I can't take the new one apart to upgrade the gears or I'll void the warranty.
RDDC oh man that's not fun , is it something all BMW m3 owners have to deal with at some point or it's just luck of the draw ? I test drove the e93 convertible m3 and It still makes me want to pick one up too. Good luck with your cars and the e36. Been enjoying the vids by the way, very informative
+Sam Everyone told me it would happen sooner or later. The forums all say it will happen. I just happen to get lucky that it took so long to fail. And thanks for kind words. Got more videos coming from the past month. I was recording just zero time to edit. I was out on business
Is it necessary to disconnect the battery for this repair?
+B Lopez not at all
RDDC appreciate the reply and appreciate the DIY. Just wrapped this up and cars running great again!
+B Lopez Great to hear!!! Easy stuff huh?
Bank 1 failed at 43000km or 26000 miles!!! Replaced gears only, codes did not clear right away - hoping they will clear tomorrow. Otherwise, whole TA must be replaced :(
Get it from rebuild.org.uk. Send the failed ones over, and you receive two remanufactured with lifetime warranty. The guy is perfect. I bought mine from there.
I see slight oil weepage on the valve covers. I guess if it aint dripping oil then leave it alone. Great video as always.
I noticed that too. I think it's coming from those black oil separators. I'm just now realizing how dirty it was under the the intake. If it wasn't so cold I'd take the time and spit clean everything.
RDDC I guess a little oil seepage is common on a modern bmw engine that is older than 5 yrs. actuators working now after install?
+Raymund Orlino The circuit board is bad on Bank 2. Bank 1 works fine after the rebuild. Unfortunately you can't buy the board anywhere without buying the whole unit. So I had to drop $1000 for a new one. Will be here Tuesday
I remember some time back saying that gears wouldn't work. Not worth all the time. Good idea buying the new actuators and changing those gears.
I didn't buy new actuators....well I had to buy one because the circuit board is bad. I heard it burns up from over current trying to drive bad gears. Bank 1 is good but Bank 2 is getting a brand new actuator. Will be in Tuesday. I will do a video showing all this and how I tested for a bad circuit board
ye it sucks. i wish it was easy but you know bmw lol. i would have just bought the gears and changed both but stupid circuits. all about the money
I thought about contacting Siemens and see if they have the boards since they make the actual unit. That would be like circuit board gold!
will codes not go away by themselves??
The CEL will need to be cleared. But the limp mode should go away immediately
@@RDDC_Official thanks
No problem!
So the one you bought in eBay was $100 but the OEM is about $900? And the one you bought seems to be a higher quality. Sounds almost too good to be true? How has your car been since you replaced the actuators? Appreciate the help.
+Dave S no the ones I bought on eBay were just the new gears. But since the board was bad on Bank 2 I was forced to buy a new one. I could have bought a used one but I'd rather have a new one. Hard to trust used ones
+Dave S Forgot, car has been running great every since
What brand of gas do you prefer for your M3?
+Taharqa Saaba I prefer Shell V-Power but it's not available in my area. This seems to be the preferred gas for M3's people choose.
RDDC Thank you! BMW here in West Palm Beach told me only to use Chevron. I have Chevron, Shell, Exxon and Mobile1 all next to each other. I am going to start using Shell. Chevron can be a hassle to find sometimes.
+Taharqa Saaba Yeah all those are decent but Shell has been tested and proven to be the cleanest gas and uses nitrogen to clean carbon buildup.
I counted at specifically 21:27 the old has 25 the new has 23 gears, i ordered one with 23 gears just like yours but I'm worried its going to mess things up, how are you doing thus far and how many miles have you done on it since then
I ran it until the board went out then replaced the whole thing. The gears worked fine
Okay, my situation is that one day I down blipped it went around 4k rpm and then went into limp mode, I read some of your comment before and it sounds like the board but I wanted to confirm. It still drove, I pulled off and did a carly scan (002B26) Throttle monitoring bank 2 and (005E19) coil outlet valve shorted. Restarted and it was fine since, I've driven it around a while longer with nothing but I tested the downblip just around 3500rpm and it did it again, I parked my car since then. Does it sound like board or do you think the gears will hold it off a while longer? I've done some reading, the second code is something about abs or wheel speed, I also might have a dying battery as before all this start/stop and some starts would struggle randomly. Fully spec E93 M3 minus comp pkg
@@MrHott-zf5fc ok the coil error is not a code that pops up with throttle actuators. Just a heads up
@@RDDC_Official okay thanks, do you think that I have to get actuators or will gears might postpone the inevitable
Just budget $1200 for two new ones. There is a guy in UK that sells them for $300 each. But the catch is you have to pay for shipping. From USA to his address, in the UK, for 2 TAs cost $100+. Then you have to send yours back! That will cost over $100+. By the time its said and done you could just buy new ones. But, he does guarentee his for life. Here's my honest truth about the rebuilt one I bought. I just got my bearings and motor mounts done and the car idled perfectly. Then I put in a rebuilt TA and now its not idling perfect like before. Im just gonna buy a new one like I did before when I feel like dropping $600.
Nice video, very informative. Did you check the INPA/EDIABAS tools? I'm not sure, but they might provide a way to test or actuate the throttle actuator itself.
Zzero clue what INPA/EDIABAS is. I have a BMW code reader thats show me % of actuator movement. I need to do a video of it. But I'll have to check into what you are talking about
Those are technically too old for the car anyway. Dealers use ISTA-D. A more powerful software package that does everything. GT1 was before ISTA-D. Car's past 2008, GT1 won't read them. You would only use GT1 for cars around E46, E83, E53, E60, E65 and E31.
+Devin Smith It has settings up to the F30. But I did some software the other day on the forum (a screenshot) that was highly detailed. This must be what you're talking about. I need it!!!
Well save up for an ICOM A3 kit with software. Let me know if you can get it working. Were up to version 4.0.
It will tell you wiring diagrams, diagnostic steps, torque specifications, faulty memory reading and it shows the entire control unit network. Its far better than what other auto groups have. I can tell you Roger, ISTA-D is more than a code reader (which is what most ebay sellers and Strap-On sells anyway). The only thing you can't really do anything about is ISTA-P or IMIB (Our multifuntion Oscilloscope with current measurement capabilities). I would get a hackable Rigol 4 channel Oscilloscope for measurements.
Devin Smith Believe me it not too old, I used it last weekend to bleed the ABS ECU and used it numerous times to functional test other units
Do not remove the 2 bolts on top of the plenum, they are there for decoration and have no securing properties.
+David Tennien funny I found that out after. I was like "WTF?! Decoration?" BMW uses plastic gears but add a nice chrome useless part to the plenum.
Believe me you aren't the only one. A lot of people did it.
What happens when one or the other one go bad? Can you still drive the car?