These Evinrude/Johson motors are so nice to look at, work on, and run. I just wished Evinrude/Johnson would have put a natural clutch, they would have been even greater. Thanks for sharing.
No kidding, I bought mine for $10 out in front of a crack house using the honor system (place cash under rock, take motor). Brought it home and put it in the garage, figured I would just turn-key it at a swap meet for $100. I tripped over it a few weeks later and thought, I wonder what's wrong with it? A new fuel line, cleaned spark plugs and two cups of gas and I had a runner for less than $2 more! Built the same year I was so of course I cant get rid of it. Took it on a local lake and had some guy chase me down, turned out he had one too and it was under his workbench, he tried to get it to run but gave up. Told me he was going to try again after we talked, he couldn't believe how smooth mine ran. I keep it in top shape now (beyond my initial $12 speculation), It's primary duty pushes my 10' boat where I wanna go, secondary role is on my 15' runabout to get us back when the main craps out. It might be slow but it beats paddling any day. For a small fishing boat with 1-2 guys in it, this is the quintessential fishing motor, hands down!
Great little motor! What size John boat you pushing there- I have couple these old 3hp I got from my Dad - Been sitting for many years - Could you recommend Good place to get parts? Also one of these is '58 Evinrude & The other is same you have here '67 folding lower unit Curious about how much oil to run I them? Thanks for video -
Jack Lowe, a good place to get parts is www.marineengine.com They have parts diagrams as well. Originally the Evinrude/Johnson 3hp motors call for 16:1 gas to oil ratio. Now oil has improved since 1963. The 1964 and post motors were advertised to use 50:1 gas to oil ratio. The problem with that is these motors internally did really change. They still have a friction based bearings going to the crankshaft and the connection rods to the piston heads. Same as the 1950's motor. It will run on 50:1, but you will get premature wear and tear that will not be noticed for few years down the line. Result will be poor compression due to piston ring wear and piston slop from premature connection rod to piston wear. Use Synthetic TCW3 oil. Biodegradable and smokes much much less than the dino oil. Recommendation 16:1 but no less than 24:1 fuel to oil ratio. By doing so, those motors will out live you :) The boat the little motor was pushing was a 14ft modified v hull Aluminum boat. Sorry my response was delayed, but I work full time and I dont get chance to post responses. A good place to get help and it is free to join. Antique Outboard Motor Club. I am a member there. Very knowledgable guys. www.aomci.org Cheers buddy!
I have the same motor only an Evinrude. How do you know if the motor is pumping enough water. I pulled the water pump and it looks great ang and I do get
@@kentyler966, the water blows out the slant cut vents on the back of the stem with the exhaust. Comes out warm to hot, so long as its flowing, you should be good to go. If you suspect a bigger problem such as been run in salt water and not flushed, get a plastic waste basket and dump a few gallons of distilled vinegar in. Start the engine and just let it idle awhile. If it seems to get hot, shut it down for overnight and run again in morning. You may have to do this a few cycles, if you see a significant change, that's fabulous! If not, then you may have to resort to some sort of physical means to flush it out. Order a head gasket and pull the head, I was able to remove a fair amount of crud from mine quite easily in this manner. Always flush with fresh water after a vinegar treatment. I know it's been three years but if you still have it, it's worth a second look.
If the shaft under the power head is warm, not hot, you are a pump'n. Most of the cooling water is going out the exhaust. Not rhe relief holes. Manual says they should just be spitting.
These Evinrude/Johson motors are so nice to look at, work on, and run. I just wished Evinrude/Johnson would have put a natural clutch, they would have been even greater. Thanks for sharing.
No kidding, I bought mine for $10 out in front of a crack house using the honor system (place cash under rock, take motor). Brought it home and put it in the garage, figured I would just turn-key it at a swap meet for $100. I tripped over it a few weeks later and thought, I wonder what's wrong with it? A new fuel line, cleaned spark plugs and two cups of gas and I had a runner for less than $2 more!
Built the same year I was so of course I cant get rid of it. Took it on a local lake and had some guy chase me down, turned out he had one too and it was under his workbench, he tried to get it to run but gave up. Told me he was going to try again after we talked, he couldn't believe how smooth mine ran. I keep it in top shape now (beyond my initial $12 speculation), It's primary duty pushes my 10' boat where I wanna go, secondary role is on my 15' runabout to get us back when the main craps out. It might be slow but it beats paddling any day. For a small fishing boat with 1-2 guys in it, this is the quintessential fishing motor, hands down!
Always happy to hear a good story!! Those are great little motors :)
Great little motor! What size John boat you pushing there- I have couple these old 3hp I got from my Dad - Been sitting for many years - Could you recommend Good place to get parts? Also one of these is '58 Evinrude & The other is same you have here '67 folding lower unit Curious about how much oil to run I them? Thanks for video -
Jack Lowe, a good place to get parts is
www.marineengine.com
They have parts diagrams as well.
Originally the Evinrude/Johnson 3hp motors call for 16:1 gas to oil ratio. Now oil has improved since 1963. The 1964 and post motors were advertised to use 50:1 gas to oil ratio.
The problem with that is these motors internally did really change. They still have a friction based bearings going to the crankshaft and the connection rods to the piston heads. Same as the 1950's motor.
It will run on 50:1, but you will get premature wear and tear that will not be noticed for few years down the line. Result will be poor compression due to piston ring wear and piston slop from premature connection rod to piston wear.
Use Synthetic TCW3 oil. Biodegradable and smokes much much less than the dino oil.
Recommendation 16:1 but no less than 24:1 fuel to oil ratio. By doing so, those motors will out live you :)
The boat the little motor was pushing was a 14ft modified v hull Aluminum boat.
Sorry my response was delayed, but I work full time and I dont get chance to post responses.
A good place to get help and it is free to join. Antique Outboard Motor Club. I am a member there. Very knowledgable guys.
www.aomci.org
Cheers buddy!
I have the same motor only an Evinrude. How do you know if the motor is pumping enough water. I pulled the water pump and it looks great ang and I do get
I do get water out the weep holes but not a lot. Can you post a shot of the back of the running motor so I can see about what looks right?
@@kentyler966, the water blows out the slant cut vents on the back of the stem with the exhaust. Comes out warm to hot, so long as its flowing, you should be good to go. If you suspect a bigger problem such as been run in salt water and not flushed, get a plastic waste basket and dump a few gallons of distilled vinegar in. Start the engine and just let it idle awhile. If it seems to get hot, shut it down for overnight and run again in morning. You may have to do this a few cycles, if you see a significant change, that's fabulous! If not, then you may have to resort to some sort of physical means to flush it out. Order a head gasket and pull the head, I was able to remove a fair amount of crud from mine quite easily in this manner. Always flush with fresh water after a vinegar treatment. I know it's been three years but if you still have it, it's worth a second look.
If the shaft under the power head is warm, not hot, you are a pump'n. Most of the cooling water is going out the exhaust. Not rhe relief holes. Manual says they should just be spitting.