Thanks, this was very helpful. I've just bought the D5 MR v2. I've built 25 plus cars so far but this is my first drift chassis and I will be upgrading as i build. Especially the drive shafts etc as you have mentioned. This is my first build getting back into rc cars. I will now be watching your other videos. Keep up the good work 👍
100% agree about the axles. Why they chose to do them like that is beyond me. I have changed mine to the d5s axles and I love the way the MR drives on carpet compared to the d5s.
I've built 3 D5s now. Including 2 MRs. Even with the new MR v2 that has threaded axles, they still use those weird hexes and small bearings. I just toss those parts and run yeah racing 44mm rear axles, reved SG front knuckles and reved asl front axles. 5x10x4mm bearings all the way around. The 2 other quirks with the D5 are loose rear diff (needs shims) and the input idler gear slop that can cause the gears to bind (also needs shims). IMO anyone who is looking to build a D5 should buy the axles, knuckles, bearings, and shims from day 0, dont even bother with the stock parts. Here is a parts list Rear Axle : SKD5-007BK Front Axle : RV-RD-005 Front Knuckle : RV-RD-001SG Bearings (5x10x4) : PTK-10039 Diff Shims (10x12.5x0.1) : CEGG36910 Input shaft Shim (5x8x0.1) : SER110423
You can probably also run plastic YD-2 front knuckles and standard axles if you're looking to keep everything budget. I have not tried this personally but it should work.
Yeah, I was shocked about the axles. The hex strips very easily, and worst of all leaves some play on the hub for me. I think I may have to retap the threads to secure the wheel. There’s a chance 3racing will release the d5 mini soon, curious to see how they roll out with that
Definitely. I THINK if I remember right. In the rear box the 90 degree gears. There are two types. Perhaps you have the wrong one in the wrong place so it's not meshing correctly?
Rear axles: SAK-D535 (Although yeah racing do a D5s upgraded set which I prefer). You might also need the bearings specs are shown here: 3racing.shop/products/sak-d535-swing-shaft-set-for-d5s-44mm?_pos=5&_sid=467660d4d&_ss=r Front stub axles I can't find. Check the Manual for the D5s, basically you want the parts from that. 3racing.shop/pages/d5s-manual-pdf It's no wonder the 2.0MR has changed totally to the IFS, and to the normal axles eh? We said it straight off they were weak, and also that the IFS handles better and got back lash from people on our other video. hehe.
@@tomasborovian Yes to convert over you need new rear drive shafts, new front stub axles, and possibly bearings. Check the links for part numbers. The nuts themselves are easy to get hold of. :) Hope this helps
Yeh noted. It didn't sound that way in the edit but now it's up its stuck like it. Shame. I've lost the original edit files. But for future I'll take note
Thanks, this was very helpful. I've just bought the D5 MR v2. I've built 25 plus cars so far but this is my first drift chassis and I will be upgrading as i build. Especially the drive shafts etc as you have mentioned. This is my first build getting back into rc cars. I will now be watching your other videos. Keep up the good work 👍
100% agree about the axles. Why they chose to do them like that is beyond me. I have changed mine to the d5s axles and I love the way the MR drives on carpet compared to the d5s.
That review is to follow. But my d5s is so well setup I love it. So I hope the MR keeps up!
I've built 3 D5s now. Including 2 MRs. Even with the new MR v2 that has threaded axles, they still use those weird hexes and small bearings. I just toss those parts and run yeah racing 44mm rear axles, reved SG front knuckles and reved asl front axles. 5x10x4mm bearings all the way around. The 2 other quirks with the D5 are loose rear diff (needs shims) and the input idler gear slop that can cause the gears to bind (also needs shims). IMO anyone who is looking to build a D5 should buy the axles, knuckles, bearings, and shims from day 0, dont even bother with the stock parts.
Here is a parts list
Rear Axle : SKD5-007BK
Front Axle : RV-RD-005
Front Knuckle : RV-RD-001SG
Bearings (5x10x4) : PTK-10039
Diff Shims (10x12.5x0.1) : CEGG36910
Input shaft Shim (5x8x0.1) : SER110423
You can probably also run plastic YD-2 front knuckles and standard axles if you're looking to keep everything budget. I have not tried this personally but it should work.
Yeah, I was shocked about the axles. The hex strips very easily, and worst of all leaves some play on the hub for me. I think I may have to retap the threads to secure the wheel. There’s a chance 3racing will release the d5 mini soon, curious to see how they roll out with that
great, waiting for pt2 ;)
We’re can I get brake rotors and calipers for a Sakura d5 mr evo v2?
I end up use 5x10x4 bearings and using reve-d axles In the front and yeah racing axles in the back. I didn't like them after a few tire changes
100% agree. One of our members has done that too using d5s rear axles.
But what about the front axles? Aren’t they also the new “strange” type?
@@DS-ez4er the new axles are good if you buy the aluminum one the plastic ones snapped easy
The gears in the back on mine are really tight and won’t turn is there something I’m doing wrong?
Definitely.
I THINK if I remember right. In the rear box the 90 degree gears. There are two types. Perhaps you have the wrong one in the wrong place so it's not meshing correctly?
What is the part number so I can convert to a nut and hex? Thanks
Rear axles: SAK-D535 (Although yeah racing do a D5s upgraded set which I prefer). You might also need the bearings specs are shown here: 3racing.shop/products/sak-d535-swing-shaft-set-for-d5s-44mm?_pos=5&_sid=467660d4d&_ss=r
Front stub axles I can't find. Check the Manual for the D5s, basically you want the parts from that. 3racing.shop/pages/d5s-manual-pdf
It's no wonder the 2.0MR has changed totally to the IFS, and to the normal axles eh? We said it straight off they were weak, and also that the IFS handles better and got back lash from people on our other video. hehe.
@@DriftSpotLincoln I have a D5MR v2 and I'm mainly interested in the classic self-lock nut. I don't like the screw for tightening the wheels
@@tomasborovian Yes to convert over you need new rear drive shafts, new front stub axles, and possibly bearings. Check the links for part numbers. The nuts themselves are easy to get hold of. :) Hope this helps
did u say something? still dancing tho
🤣🤣🤣
music is so loud
Agreed, poor editing software, wont happen again I promise!
Where did you get the files for the bumper
Prints?
I made them. They are on thingiverse. Search for DriftSpot
Sorry too much background music for me otherwise was helpful
Yeh noted. It didn't sound that way in the edit but now it's up its stuck like it. Shame. I've lost the original edit files. But for future I'll take note