thanks for posting. great info. we always carry a few extra bits in our chain fitting kit. 1. small lenghts of strong tie wire to secure extra links ( stop them hitting bodywork etc) 2. waterproof tarp/mat etc to kneel on ( to stay clean) and 3. rubber gloves as its always wet cold work. hope this helps.
I didn't get the tie wire, a good idea especially at the back. The other two I mentioned in the intro, although I didn't use the tarp for the demo. I thought about doing the demo on the tracks, but really want to promote "learn before you leave" !
🏆🏆🏆👍🇺🇲🙏 After getting used to SSC cable chains and no disappointments, I could apply and remove in less than 10 minutes. We seem to have ice storms and they allow me to even pull trailers and start and stop very dependably. After a stroke and one good hand, I can handle them, whereas something heavier, I just have no chance. ❤️🛐🤗 Thank you for sharing
Mud yes. Sand never with chains. Reason being that mud is slippery, whereas sand is loose. For sand you need flotation so as not to sink in which increase rolling resistance. That's true to some extent for mud as well, but often in mud you need to bite into a slippery surface. So for example think of a wet clay hill - it's quite a hard surface, you couldn't easily push a shovel in like you could with sand, but wet clay is REALLY slippery. So the chains can bite into the mud surface, similar to ice and snow. However, chains can destroy the tracks so their use should be avoided. In snow this is less of a problem as you're only rolling on snow which will melt, not digging deeper ruts in mud. Hope that makes sense?
@@L2SFBC Perfect sense. I don't expect to come across much snow, but sand and mud yes, so best get the track boards and leave the chains in the garage.
I used to use a wood block but now use plastic ramps SNO chain ramps comes in set of two can do one side at a time. Use them every year in Idaho Wyoming Montana and Colorado
@@L2SFBC they are heavy plastic ramps with chain channels cut into them. You lay chains in / on ramp place one ramp and chain in front of front tire and one ramp and chain in front of back tire . Drive onto ramp pull up both chains and hook them takes all slack out as it’s nice fit . Put on chain center tension rubbers and then do same on other side . They are lightweight and easy to pack I put them with the chains in tire area
I never thought about the block of wood. I would think it is also a little dangerous considering that the ground is usually covered in snow/ice and I'd be worried about the 4WD slipping off as the ground is not always ideal where you have parked to get the chains on. I have not fitted chains your way with laying them out then driving onto them. I lay then out then fit them to the wheel and will need to move the 4WD onto the chains to get the backside connected. Then tension them up and move off again a few meters to then settle them and re-tension. I will do both at the same time which you wouldn't be able to do with the block of wood method. As always it will be snowing or sleeting when you need to get the chains on. Thanks for sharing your method.
Well you've got 3 wheels firmly on the ground, so I've never had a problem with any car slipping off. Thanks for sharing your method! Always good to have lots of methods :-)
When I am driving in 4wd-L in snow, should I apply the 2 chains alternatingly, 1 in front and 1 back? Or should I apply both on the rear wheels? Will the front and back have a problem?
Sorry thought I mentioned tyre pressures. If I didn't, then I would have said "it's eaiser to fit chains when the tyres are aired up, THEN air down, but you can air down first".
you actually mounted them "inside out"... the u-shaped links that connect the side chain to the cross chains should have the folded over ends facing outward so that they point AWAY from the side wall. If the chains get stressed, those links can unbend and they can puncture the tire. They are also hard cut ends on one side and smooth bends on the other so general wear and tear from driving miles will be less.
Wow, didn't know that, wasn't in the instructions either! But a good point, thank you. I don't see the bit about "hard cut ends on side and smooth bends on the other" though? Added that to the description.
I understand that... But does the Back of the set of chains have the same tightening system as you showed on the Front ??? And if so, why didn't you show that procedure during in the video ???
![How To Fit Snow Chains On Your 4WD - [ TIPS & TRICKS ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TRLpbnCeqxg/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Fit Snow Chains On Your 4WD - [ TIPS & TRICKS ]](/img/tr.png)
For more chain information read this: l2sfbc.com/all-about-snow-chains-in-australia-what-they-are-when-to-use-and-how-to-fit/
That's brilliant, I have used chains for 40 some years and the block is a great idea.
Glad to help, I didn't invent it...but please share the video! Don't forget a plate under the block for soft ground.
Some useful tips here Robert. Cheers
Glad to help :-)
thanks for posting. great info. we always carry a few extra bits in our chain fitting kit. 1. small lenghts of strong tie wire to secure extra links ( stop them hitting bodywork etc) 2. waterproof tarp/mat etc to kneel on ( to stay clean) and 3. rubber gloves as its always wet cold work. hope this helps.
I didn't get the tie wire, a good idea especially at the back. The other two I mentioned in the intro, although I didn't use the tarp for the demo. I thought about doing the demo on the tracks, but really want to promote "learn before you leave" !
Excellent thank you!
You're very welcome! Please share :-)
🏆🏆🏆👍🇺🇲🙏
After getting used to SSC cable chains and no disappointments, I could apply and remove in less than 10 minutes. We seem to have ice storms and they allow me to even pull trailers and start and stop very dependably. After a stroke and one good hand, I can handle them, whereas something heavier, I just have no chance. ❤️🛐🤗
Thank you for sharing
Thanks! What's SSC cable chains?
Now I find this!!!!
Glad it helped?
Another brilliantly presented and informative demo. Thanks Robert.
In a pinch, can you use chains to get out of other predicaments - e.g. mud or sand?
Mud yes. Sand never with chains. Reason being that mud is slippery, whereas sand is loose. For sand you need flotation so as not to sink in which increase rolling resistance. That's true to some extent for mud as well, but often in mud you need to bite into a slippery surface. So for example think of a wet clay hill - it's quite a hard surface, you couldn't easily push a shovel in like you could with sand, but wet clay is REALLY slippery. So the chains can bite into the mud surface, similar to ice and snow. However, chains can destroy the tracks so their use should be avoided. In snow this is less of a problem as you're only rolling on snow which will melt, not digging deeper ruts in mud. Hope that makes sense?
@@L2SFBC Perfect sense. I don't expect to come across much snow, but sand and mud yes, so best get the track boards and leave the chains in the garage.
I used to use a wood block but now use plastic ramps SNO chain ramps comes in set of two can do one side at a time. Use them every year in Idaho Wyoming Montana and Colorado
How does the plastic ramp work?
@@L2SFBC they are heavy plastic ramps with chain channels cut into them. You lay chains in / on ramp place one ramp and chain in front of front tire and one ramp and chain in front of back tire . Drive onto ramp pull up both chains and hook them takes all slack out as it’s nice fit . Put on chain center tension rubbers and then do same on other side . They are lightweight and easy to pack I put them with the chains in tire area
Thank you
@@L2SFBC anytime love your channel I’ve learned a lot from y’all 👊🏻👊🏻
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 wow, that's high praise, love it when people who know the outdoors already learn something from my work!!!
I never thought about the block of wood. I would think it is also a little dangerous considering that the ground is usually covered in snow/ice and I'd be worried about the 4WD slipping off as the ground is not always ideal where you have parked to get the chains on. I have not fitted chains your way with laying them out then driving onto them. I lay then out then fit them to the wheel and will need to move the 4WD onto the chains to get the backside connected. Then tension them up and move off again a few meters to then settle them and re-tension. I will do both at the same time which you wouldn't be able to do with the block of wood method. As always it will be snowing or sleeting when you need to get the chains on. Thanks for sharing your method.
Well you've got 3 wheels firmly on the ground, so I've never had a problem with any car slipping off. Thanks for sharing your method! Always good to have lots of methods :-)
When I am driving in 4wd-L in snow, should I apply the 2 chains alternatingly, 1 in front and 1 back? Or should I apply both on the rear wheels?
Will the front and back have a problem?
No always two on the same axle.
@@L2SFBC wouldn't alternating give me a better grip while driving?
no
Forgot to mention that you need to lower the tyre pressure*before* fitting the chains.
Sorry thought I mentioned tyre pressures. If I didn't, then I would have said "it's eaiser to fit chains when the tyres are aired up, THEN air down, but you can air down first".
you actually mounted them "inside out"... the u-shaped links that connect the side chain to the cross chains should have the folded over ends facing outward so that they point AWAY from the side wall. If the chains get stressed, those links can unbend and they can puncture the tire. They are also hard cut ends on one side and smooth bends on the other so general wear and tear from driving miles will be less.
Wow, didn't know that, wasn't in the instructions either! But a good point, thank you. I don't see the bit about "hard cut ends on side and smooth bends on the other" though? Added that to the description.
Great demonstration Robert. What is your Go To set of snow chains?
He states he uses Piranha Offroad wheel chains
Correct, Piranha Offroad. Has served me well.
Where about were you on the track at the end? Looks like a lot of deciduous trees.
High Country, Victoria, Australia
@@L2SFBC nice, was sure it didn't look like nsw, beautiful part of the country.
Always looks different in the snow!
Do you have to chain all 4 tires?
No
I've never used chain's, do you have to tighten up the back of them like you do the front ???
Fully tighten. A loose chain is a bad chain.
I understand that...
But does the Back of the set of chains have the same tightening system as you showed on the Front ???
And if so, why didn't you show that procedure during in the video ???
@@todd6385 oh right no you only tigthen at the front.
Thank you for helping me understand this, I GREATLY appreciate it...
But dont forget that the chains go on the front wheels. You are better off with steering and breaking rather than drive from the rear.
Well, that's debatable, and also some vehicles cannot fit chains on the front wheels, particularly independent-sprung 4x4s with larger tyres.
el último dispositivo que enganchás (amarillo ) tendría que ser un resorte con gancho -
Balancing a tire on block of wood in conditions slippery enough to require chains seems dangerous. Drive a little bit and retension
Well has worked well for me thus far. The other 3 wheels are on the ground and not going anywhere. I'd say it's safer than any jacking operation.
Oh no so this doesn't apply to a 2WD? 😨
It can apply to a 2WD yes, but I'm focusing it around 4x4 drivers.
Snow chains in the summer? Man, your summers must be cold.
No, our summers are really hot. We don't need chains in summer. Guess why I posted this video at this time?
Alex, this is winter in Australia 😉
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣