I LOVE your content/channel. Thank you for what you do, as I've learned SO much from watching your demonstrations and tutorials. I went from having zero experience, to being able to install an hdmi video mod in my childhood Nintendo 64. Thank you! 🤜🤛 ☺️
no donbt try to fix your N64 yet first practice on stuff that your not going to care if you burn through it or burn some plastic stuff also your gonna need flux..
@@jjlmnop5226 At first, I practiced on some PCB's I found in someone's trash. THEN when I felt confident in my new abilities, went for installing my N64 Digital kit. Honestly, it didn't work at first. And I had to troubleshoot each connection individually. I'm glad it didn't work right away, cause that gave me some experience on learning how to properly use my multi meter. One of the MOST important first lessons I learned was: Flux is your friend! 😆 🤜🤛
Your methods are very innovative, creative and really helpful. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. God bless you. From Iran with best wishes.
I really enjoy your videos, I've been in electronics for over 50 years and still learn things every day. Watching your techniques in component removal is interesting and educational, I would like to ask what is the best approach for SMD components that have been glued down because often I apply too much heat often resulting in lost pads.
Another great instruction video. Regarding heat protection: I have built a SMD reflow plate with a bespoke element insulated with ceramic fibre board. I’ve cut some scraps into various‘biscuits’ only 2mm thick. This has excellent thermal insulation properties but is very friable at this thickness. I solved this by coating with waterglass (sodium silicate) and heating to 200c to turn it into glass. The result is a firm biscuit great for blocking heat. The water glass also has the advantage that the unhealthy fibres are contained.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . If my videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Would love to see a guide on microsoldering(specifically using copper core to achieve it), mate. Blow your audience's minds further! Heads will fall off. 😀 When I first encountered it, I felt so d_mb.. such a simple concept, but I never thought of it before until then. I regretted all those times soldering teeny wires and SMDs onto tiny pads with ordinary tips, not to mention the amount of headphone repairs I messed up. To think that just wrapping a little copper core arround your soldering iron can take your soldering to another level, is crazy. Apart from microsoldering, it's also how I get around awkward spaces and component arrangements. Sometimes you don't need to buy a specific tip just to use it a few times- just wrap copper core around your tip and bend it the way you like.
LOVE IT!! Could you do a vid of your work desk? Scope, soldering iron, what cloth you use for flux clean up? I know you use a cable tie for flux application 😀
I used your two-iron technique this week to remove a series of SMD LEDs that were the wrong colour despite my supplier's claims. Fibbers! A £12 Leadpro iron from Amazon did the trick really well and was surprisingly nice quality. The SMD soldering tweezers looked like an oversized lobster claw to me and were much more expensive.
@@grahamnichols1416 Hi , thank you for your comment . I had actually posted this video over a year ago but the site where I used copyright free music from ( which I did pay for ) has now decided to monetise their music . So I've had to delete the original , re- insert new music ( a better paid music site) which I'm happy with as it's guaranteed protected , apparently , and then re upload . So you may see a few old videos reappear. I will always add new content when I can still . Thanks for all your support , take care 👍
Really good tips there. Thanks I've learned a lot from your channel over the last few months. Any chance you could show removing THT connectors and other components when on a ground plane? I've got some DIL connectors to do at work, but I'm really struggling to remove them and clear the holes. I've tried linking the leads with wire, and de-soldering with an Ersa Icon iron. I've tried a heat gun but had no success. I end up just pulling each pin separately, but it gets messy. I have a Gordak 853 preheater, but don't really know what I'm doing with it. I've tried using it to heat the underside and applying heat from the heat gun to the top, but it hasn't helped much.
Cool. Is there a good way to remove larger through hole connectors? I have a 64 pin (2 rows of 32) soldered with lead free that's being a bit stubborn.
Same problem here, imagine removing a 40 Raspberry Pi Hat, soldered on. I tried the copper wire, not enough heat flow, fast enough. Is the answer to use a higher power soldering iron?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . There's times when all the different options have their place . This is what you learn the more soldering or desoldering you do . We all find our favourite methods in the end and I always appreciate comments like yours . Thanks again , take care 👍
Any tips on removing high density backplane connectors? I occasionally need to remove 96 pin right angle backplane connectors. Being right angle, the pins are accessible (well, two rows of them are anyway), so I typically just clip them to free the connector body and then use tweezers and my soldering iron to pull each pin one at a time. Do you have an easier, less time consuming method?
Are you using a digital microscope or some sort of seeing device to enhance your vision while soldering/desoldering? I’m having a difficult time being accurate with small components. Are there less expensive or better alternatives to a microscope? Or are your eyes just a lot better than mine?! 😅 A video about optical instruments for soldering would be wonderful! 🙏🏻 I always appreciate your videos. 💯 😃
I know this vid is about removing electronic components but I hope it's OK to beg for some help with the reverse situation: adding a component there's no place for on a board. Pin 2 on the chip goes directly via a pair of single sided tracks to the output terminal on a 3 pole terminal block. A design error means a capacitor has to be added in series to the circuit and the suggested solution is to screw one leg of the cap into the terminal post and solder the other leg to a test lead but that looks terrible and isn't very reliable or long term. Would cutting the traces and scraping them back to create a gap and then soldering the two legs of the capacitor across the gap between the ends of the scraped tracks work? Or is that just horrible and worse than having the cap dangling outside the device's enclosure?
Whenever I am using solder braidto remove solder off the pads, wick seems to stick to pads. I don’t really wanna yank it off since it might damage the pads. What could possibly be the reason?
Hi , unfortunately the SMFL200D flux I used for years is now discontinued. I now use Loctite 6381-35 , which is just as great , but unfortunately only comes in large quantities , I believe 1 litre bottles and 5 litres containers . For the Hobbyist this isn't really an option . Luckily I managed to get myself a quantity that will last me quite a while . If anyone knows where you can get smaller amounts of this I'm sure everyone would love to know as it is a superb liquid flux. Thanks for your comment 👍
ua-cam.com/video/nfXqK8jUcLc/v-deo.htmlsi=zMvEiciiB7Wj-XwE Got it. Needed this idea for multiple legged components. I commented on another video. Thanks will try this tomorrow.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've posted quite a few desoldering video's on my channel showing some great different techniques . From Ethernet connectors to large multipin components I'm sure one of them can help you out . Good luck and thanks again 👍
I LOVE your content/channel. Thank you for what you do, as I've learned SO much from watching your demonstrations and tutorials. I went from having zero experience, to being able to install an hdmi video mod in my childhood Nintendo 64. Thank you! 🤜🤛 ☺️
no donbt try to fix your N64 yet first practice on stuff that your not going to care if you burn through it or burn some plastic stuff also your gonna need flux..
@@jjlmnop5226 At first, I practiced on some PCB's I found in someone's trash. THEN when I felt confident in my new abilities, went for installing my N64 Digital kit.
Honestly, it didn't work at first. And I had to troubleshoot each connection individually. I'm glad it didn't work right away, cause that gave me some experience on learning how to properly use my multi meter.
One of the MOST important first lessons I learned was: Flux is your friend! 😆
🤜🤛
Your methods are very innovative, creative and really helpful. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. God bless you. From Iran with best wishes.
Hi , thank you for watching my videos and supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Must watch video for those looking to up their soldering game!
I watched your videos years ago and they were the best I seen on the subject.
That was really cool. Thanks for showing us these techniques, to remove those components.👏
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , always appreciated 👍
I love your videos. They are very relaxing after a stressful day. Thank you.
Thx for sharing your techniques.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , really appreciated 👍
Always useful and straight to the point. Cheers
I really enjoy your videos, I've been in electronics for over 50 years and still learn things every day. Watching your techniques in component removal is interesting and educational, I would like to ask what is the best approach for SMD components that have been glued down because often I apply too much heat often resulting in lost pads.
Another great instruction video. Regarding heat protection: I have built a SMD reflow plate with a bespoke element insulated with ceramic fibre board. I’ve cut some scraps into various‘biscuits’ only 2mm thick. This has excellent thermal insulation properties but is very friable at this thickness. I solved this by coating with waterglass (sodium silicate) and heating to 200c to turn it into glass. The result is a firm biscuit great for blocking heat. The water glass also has the advantage that the unhealthy fibres are contained.
the hero we needed
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . If my videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Would love to see a guide on microsoldering(specifically using copper core to achieve it), mate. Blow your audience's minds further! Heads will fall off. 😀
When I first encountered it, I felt so d_mb.. such a simple concept, but I never thought of it before until then.
I regretted all those times soldering teeny wires and SMDs onto tiny pads with ordinary tips, not to mention the amount of headphone repairs I messed up. To think that just wrapping a little copper core arround your soldering iron can take your soldering to another level, is crazy.
Apart from microsoldering, it's also how I get around awkward spaces and component arrangements. Sometimes you don't need to buy a specific tip just to use it a few times- just wrap copper core around your tip and bend it the way you like.
LOVE IT!! Could you do a vid of your work desk? Scope, soldering iron, what cloth you use for flux clean up? I know you use a cable tie for flux application 😀
Best Ever !!! This is really good to me :) I love u!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
I used your two-iron technique this week to remove a series of SMD LEDs that were the wrong colour despite my supplier's claims. Fibbers! A £12 Leadpro iron from Amazon did the trick really well and was surprisingly nice quality. The SMD soldering tweezers looked like an oversized lobster claw to me and were much more expensive.
@@grahamnichols1416 Hi , thank you for your comment . I had actually posted this video over a year ago but the site where I used copyright free music from ( which I did pay for ) has now decided to monetise their music . So I've had to delete the original , re- insert new music ( a better paid music site) which I'm happy with as it's guaranteed protected , apparently , and then re upload . So you may see a few old videos reappear. I will always add new content when I can still . Thanks for all your support , take care 👍
Best video there is , can you put a link for the tweezers , flux , clean pads
Thank you sir
Great videos! What microscope are you using?
Really good tips there. Thanks I've learned a lot from your channel over the last few months.
Any chance you could show removing THT connectors and other components when on a ground plane? I've got some DIL connectors to do at work, but I'm really struggling to remove them and clear the holes. I've tried linking the leads with wire, and de-soldering with an Ersa Icon iron. I've tried a heat gun but had no success. I end up just pulling each pin separately, but it gets messy.
I have a Gordak 853 preheater, but don't really know what I'm doing with it. I've tried using it to heat the underside and applying heat from the heat gun to the top, but it hasn't helped much.
Cool. Is there a good way to remove larger through hole connectors? I have a 64 pin (2 rows of 32) soldered with lead free that's being a bit stubborn.
Same problem here, imagine removing a 40 Raspberry Pi Hat, soldered on. I tried the copper wire, not enough heat flow, fast enough. Is the answer to use a higher power soldering iron?
thanks for the tips, what about removing a 40pin IDE socket? can I use the wire method as it is very long
great tips
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Very Good
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
As a novice I found hot air removal is most easiest and hassle free.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . There's times when all the different options have their place . This is what you learn the more soldering or desoldering you do . We all find our favourite methods in the end and I always appreciate comments like yours . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hello, Can you say the solders and the model of your air gun? Many thanks, very good video!
Hi, what is the transparent liquid you apply before the hot gun? What is the purpose ? Thanks
Any tips on removing high density backplane connectors? I occasionally need to remove 96 pin right angle backplane connectors. Being right angle, the pins are accessible (well, two rows of them are anyway), so I typically just clip them to free the connector body and then use tweezers and my soldering iron to pull each pin one at a time. Do you have an easier, less time consuming method?
Are you using a digital microscope or some sort of seeing device to enhance your vision while soldering/desoldering? I’m having a difficult time being accurate with small components. Are there less expensive or better alternatives to a microscope? Or are your eyes just a lot better than mine?! 😅
A video about optical instruments for soldering would be wonderful! 🙏🏻
I always appreciate your videos. 💯 😃
just Art!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Can you do one on what the vias are actually connected to, ground planes, levels, etc.
What temperature(s) are you using with the iron(s)?
Top
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍
I know this vid is about removing electronic components but I hope it's OK to beg for some help with the reverse situation: adding a component there's no place for on a board. Pin 2 on the chip goes directly via a pair of single sided tracks to the output terminal on a 3 pole terminal block. A design error means a capacitor has to be added in series to the circuit and the suggested solution is to screw one leg of the cap into the terminal post and solder the other leg to a test lead but that looks terrible and isn't very reliable or long term. Would cutting the traces and scraping them back to create a gap and then soldering the two legs of the capacitor across the gap between the ends of the scraped tracks work? Or is that just horrible and worse than having the cap dangling outside the device's enclosure?
Whenever I am using solder braidto remove solder off the pads, wick seems to stick to pads. I don’t really wanna yank it off since it might damage the pads. What could possibly be the reason?
Not enough heat and more flux
@@timmienorrie Thanks for your tip
Which Flux you using,,,???
Hi , unfortunately the SMFL200D flux I used for years is now discontinued.
I now use Loctite 6381-35 , which is just as great , but unfortunately only comes in large quantities , I believe 1 litre bottles and 5 litres containers . For the Hobbyist this isn't really an option . Luckily I managed to get myself a quantity that will last me quite a while . If anyone knows where you can get smaller amounts of this I'm sure everyone would love to know as it is a superb liquid flux.
Thanks for your comment 👍
Why don't you spread the braid out before using it? Do you think the savings on braid aren't worth the hassle?
I really need to get what ever iron you are using.
ua-cam.com/video/nfXqK8jUcLc/v-deo.htmlsi=zMvEiciiB7Wj-XwE
Got it. Needed this idea for multiple legged components. I commented on another video. Thanks will try this tomorrow.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've posted quite a few desoldering video's on my channel showing some great different techniques . From Ethernet connectors to large multipin components I'm sure one of them can help you out . Good luck and thanks again 👍
Mitico
@@ozzfestone hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated 👍