Engine oil Leak! Remove Transmission! 2010 Tahoe
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Ready for Pt 2? Rear Main Seal Replaced! Chevrolet 5.3 Transmission Install • LEAKING: Rear Main Sea...
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The scam bots have finally showed up on this channel
It’s an ongoing problem. You might like this… Unlisted Video right now. Scammer Trolling in action! Mechanic Catches Scam Real Time!
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This cat converter even works for puma -> lion! Click here to learn more.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs I act like, yeah right. I'm contacting you ASAP. I knew it was a scam before it was revealed as one. If it's not from the owner of the channel, it's a scam.
When i got hit by the scammers i thought "yes Ray made the cell phone ringtone doubidou bidouuuu". 😄
Showed up days ago already, and I keep reporting.
Licensed optician in florida here. Gotta get some UNCOATED safety glasses for work, transitions are okay because they're not a coating. But oils/grease are going to destroy the antiglare on your lenses in record time and you won't enjoy using them at all. Peeling antiglare = can't see anything through the lenses anymore.
Love your stuff Ray! Keep those glasses maintained, they look awesome.
Customer states : anti glare on transition lens stopped working...
I have a handful of prescription safety goggles in my garage that I destroyed at work but better than than my eyes I've had metal remove my and I'll tell you it's no fun have a good day
I would get two pairs of prescription safety glasses for work. Got to keep your eyes in good working order and repair. This one looks like it's not a 120-minute job. Looks like two or three days' worth of work to me. What do I know I am just one more peckerwood making a comment. You are a real cool Dude Ray!
Been there! Metal removal is terrible!
Up here in the N/E that's a 6 stud replacement job on top of everything else. Thanks
Mr. Snowman 🖕
Nice to see a fellow mechanic who is actually able to fix things instead of just being a parts fitter, it's abvious you are looked upon as a very experienced guiding influence there. Thank you for sharing your work, something I can't work out though, why do we mechanics enjoy watching some one else doing the actual work...
Hi from Spain 🇪🇸 I live here now but from Liverpool UK 🇬🇧 I love watching your channel you make things look so much more understandable. And you add that bit of humour to it all .👍🏻😎👍🏻
Great job on the Tahoe. The hard work is on that bushing bolt that rusted in. That's my kind of luck to get a job like that. Thanks for taking the kind to show us good videos.
Thank you for reminding me why I HATE auto work as a profession. Can sit and watch YOU do it all day, makes it easy peasy!!
The transmission said, " Don't move. I'll go get you a towel."
That was from, what, Howard the Duck?
I read that and it is always in Donald ducks voice
@@bartman8876 Yeah, I first encountered it in the days of Napster when people would mislabel MP3 files. You thought you were downloading Metallica and instead got dirty Donald Duck.
@@xliquidflames right. sad how old it makes me feel.
Hahaha got me rollin Good one REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE ARE LEGION
Ray, I'd really recommend using a 3/8 impact on exhaust bolts, and a 1/2 inch impact on the stubborn ones. Really, really makes the bolts a cakewalk, even on rustier ones.
Yeah, I was confused he was using hand ratchet force for those. Doesn't the sharp impact of an impact tool shock the bonds of rustiness and stiction apart? Better than the long slow steady force of human muscles.
As a Midwesterner I'm envious that he's actually 1: able to find the bolts through the non -rust. 2: use the correct size socket on the bolts. One thing for sure.... "Midwest Ray's Repairs" would have his liquid wrench out every episode 🤣
Yup, when you need SAE and metric sockets, with a hammer, in a descending attempt to round off all the rust and get to the true size of a midwest nut!
Use an impact on those exhaust bolts and nuts to reduce the chance of breaking them. If they're really stuck, a wrench will break them off, whereas an impact will jar them loose. If you have time, spray them with penetrating oil the day before.
Same with axle nuts, I've broken plenty of breaker bars (including Snap-on) , where an impact will just pop them right off. Pulling on a wrench applies increasing pressure until something breaks. An impact is similar to rapidly rapidly striking a wrench with a hammer.
EDIT: Also, use an impact in short bursts. Hose pressure drops as soon as you pull the trigger. A quick pause lets the pressure rebuild.
Hello,
This is information here, just the way it should be, it's helping us to understand what is going on ,why we fail sometimes and how to approach the situation with the appropriate method.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Tigo
I live in Canada and seeing you remove exhaust bolts/ nuts kinda makes me envious of your environment in Florida! As always fantastic videos Ray huge fan from Canada 🇨🇦
ARIZONA is even better. Damn near no humidity and even paint chips don't rust. You normally see a little rust after the brutal sun burns the paint away after several years.
Ya , I'll bet. Everything underneath must be torched off and replaced
@@TechNWRO ALL my life I heard 'but it's a 'DRY heat"
I never really understood it until one July in St Louis. I understood INSTANTLY!
A bolt coming off very easy scares me a little
@@TechNWRO Maybe but everything else that's plastic just deteriorates in your hand when you touch it.
Thanks for all of your entertaining and informative videos!
Keep ‘em coming! 👍🏻👍🏻
The more I watch your work, the more I learn. And I am glad to have someone like you working on my car.
I just about spill my coffee watching you when I try to reach through the screen to grab and pull something out of your way to assist in disassembly and reassembly.
They make a long 1/2 to 3/8 extension works well for extended high torque situations it will save you from a lot of that whiplash😉
Yes! What I came here to say! SK Tool version, SKT-46175 goes for $99ish on amazon, and prices go down from there for quality Taiwanese versions.
The biggest problem I have working on cars is fitting my big mitts into tight spaces. Oh, also getting under dashes.
I’m up. I’m up
I just said the same thing!!
I am reminded again that good Mechanic's are PRICELESS. They earn their pay!!!!
A flywheel performs a function of keeping the engine rotating while the clutch is disengaged. It has mass to hold kinetic energy so that the engine rpm doesn't drop too much and force the synchros to slow the transmission's input shaft down. This prevents premature synchro wear. This is why lightweight flywheels on street cars aren't a great idea unless you don't mind rebuilding your trans every 60k miles. That being said, I use lightweight flywheels on all of my cars because I don't keep them long enough to worry about it.
That kinetic energy also helps smooth the idle- hand that mass is not needed with auto trans as the torque converter mass performs the same function.
What I like best about these videos is it's not the kind that states what needs to be done and all of a sudden skipping to it being done. You go in depth and Show what it takes for good Mechanics to get the job done right. Thank you man!
Love the voice over 2010 year correction 😊
That oil drippings are tears of joy from the engine, thanking you for fixing the leak
I love how you point things out like how there's rubber along the bottom of that plate. I was just thinking if oil is coming out now why wouldn't it later, but you explained why lol. Just as I was thinking it. I think the way you do things are extremely helpful, always a thumbs up!
I really enjoy watching your videos I was a State certified mechanic in Michigan. I'm not able to do much at all anymore because of back surgery. Keep wrenching you're doing an awesome job
You need to see what you’re doing. It’s a bonus if we can see.
As far as your technique you do what you have to. I’ve learned a lot from you. Thank you for bringing us along.
Best words of wisdom "folks gotta understand that there is not always an easy way to do things, sometimes you just gotta do it the hard way".
Personally I love all of your videos no matter what happens. I get to learn something new about cars and trucks that I didn't know about before, and it helps me understand my own truck as well. So not only do I get entertainment from your videos but I also get information on different parts of a vehicle
Having done this job a few times, reminds me just how miserable it is even with unlimited lift, tools, and talent. They could never pay you enough, but somebody has to do it. Great video.
I totally agree with every word in your excellent comment James. I just have to shake my head when I see the decisions that Government Motors makes in the integration design of their powertrain into this vehicle. It really almost seems, at least to me, as though minimal effort was put into the consideration that in the future the vehicle will need to be worked on. Oxygen sensor placement directly in the way of a transmission bellhousing bolt, when there is so much room to place the sensor a little left or right on the exhaust pipe, simply to allow for reasonable service access to these critical bolts just screams: "GM does not care" to me. Ray seriously has to have the patience of a saint to do this type of work day in and day out. I am so impressed with his skills. Fred
Yeah it’s fun, I just did it laying on the floor! Good times!
@@electronicengineer, it's all about "speed and ease of assembly"; "speed and ease of repair", um notsomuch.
@@rickn8or I have removed a few of these in in my days and I have to point out that if you have the proper tools, extensions, swivels this job is GRAVY.; and it is not even 4WD! Ray has done a fantastic job so far with what he has to work with.
@@rickn8or No doubt. It is a shame really, because even the dealer's mechanics will face the same adversity as Ray does, when having to repair this monstrosity. Have a great night. Fred
This is one of those "while you're in there" situations. Check the pilot bearing in the crank, and replace if needed. Replace the front transmission seal, and glue it in with 3M adhesive. And equally important is the torque converter lock up O-Ring on the transmission input shaft. Guaranteed it will be flat, and possibly hard and brittle. The parts are cheap, and that piece of mind is worth it.
Good stuff, Ray.
Mostly sound advice, but no pilot bearing as far as I could see, and even if there was it would never wear as unlike a manual where the tans input shaft turns within the pilot bearing, here the torque converter is bolted solid to the flex plate so no movement to cause wear. For the other bits, sure I would do them on my cars but will the customer want to pay extra? Maybe….
Watching you work on these newer cars really makes me appreciate the 73 Dodge Charger, 69 Mustang and 72 Impala I had as a young guy. If only I had stayed away from the Dodge 400 BBs I would've had a lot more cash on hand to do fun things.
I discovered by mistake on one of these trucks. Pull the intake manifold, makes the top bell housing bolt really easy. Not to mention that bracket
Nice to see what this job entails. Had it done on our 02 Yukon and was dismayed at the cost. I feel a bit better now seeing how much work was involved to fix that oil leak.
Some dorman products are good some you don't mess with,Ray I'll give you 3-6 months on that job B4 it comes back,lol
can we use the original cover that came with car . ?
When that oil shot you in the face you missed a great, "That's what she said" moment there...LOL.
I know the feeling on the exhaust flange bolts. 2001 Z71 had the rear main seal leaking. Lucky for me I had to overhaul 4L60e transmission as well. I have about 4K miles on the rebuild and no leak on the rear main seal. Saved myself $1400. Transmission shop wanted $2800. Enjoy your Videos !!!
LMAO! I had a visual in my head when that money shot got you in the glasses! When you say “Reeee” is priceless as well. With the positive attitude you have doing what you do makes me want to have a better attitude myself. Thank you for what you do on utube and for just being you. Don’t let the bad commenters get you down. They probably don’t share their toys either.
Oh this was a good one Ray so TY, we had FIRE 🔥🔥 Oil splashes, difficult nuts and bolts, unobtanium blades, Tech's not listening and a long video. Total pleasure for us armchair watchers to savour, so will look for part 2 of this repair and also maybe some more adventures in your daily life.
Stay Safe Stay Strong 🦘🦘🦘🦘🚗🚗👍👍
Wow. Huge job there and great work! One suggestion. When a relatively new seal starts to leak and you must replace it again, I feel the sealing surface for burrs or grooves before installing another new seal. Try to find out why the new seal leaked! Look at the inside of the seal and see if the spring came loose. I have often found I need to clean up the sealing surface with fine emery cloth before a new seal goes in. And depending on the mileage, the mains just may be worn enough that the crank has sunk down making for a poor seal. If it jumps around, it'll pump oil out like that. Also, I really like that you use proper terms for all the parts as you work. Few techs do that. So thank you! makes for good accurate communicating. It gets really old to me watching a you tube guy yell "Giggety and Gugatz!" over and over and over again when they don't know what they're looking at. (Thinking they are cool guys. But really just ignorant) I spent my career as a nuc plant mechanic and then a hydraulics tech after I got disabled. We had one supervisor who couldn't speak english and was pretty ignorant. He made up for it by being really urban and cool! He came up to me one morning and said "Hey Man! What's da status of all the pawtz?" I replied what the heck is a pawtz? He said "You know Man! The PAAAAAWWWWTZ, PAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWTZ!' Trying to be helpful I said all the different bits we work have proper nomenclatures listed in the tech manual and adding W's to words doesn't make them more understandable. He was looking pretty frustrated at this point. Then my smart assed E5 jumped in and said "Hey Petty Officer! I think I can help here, I speak jive!" I contained my laughter, but the guy in charge lost it and stormed off. Not a fan of the Airplane movie I suppose. He didn't last in that job and was replaced soon after.
Hooray. Long live Airplane. "I've got your vector Victor"
@@kenore4003 Rodger, Roger.
those studs are the bane of my existence. i always replace the studs with stainless ARP and a bronze flange nut. theres also a trick to keep those rear mains from leaking on the gm LS engines. the rear cover needs to be drilled and pinned. ive drilled a 1/4 inch hole and tapped in a .255 precision pin after the plate and seal have been aligned. this prevents those long pan bolts from distorting the rear seal.
I have a 3 foot 1/2 extension that is bent just enough for getting that top transmission bolt. Hard lesson learned while working on the hummvee’s years back in the ARMY.
For some reason I watch a lot of your videos and I don't own any of these vehicles. I think I realized I find it relaxing to watch someone else doing all of this work instead of me 😅
Yay 401 k and counting congrats Ray. Here’s an extra can of brake kleen to celebrate!!! Excellent video as always. Just saw someone on another channel buy an old Ford festival. Whooo boy it’s in need of Ray’s expertise but they’re going to fix it themselves. I’d fix it over a cliff lol.
Ouch!!! Does not sound fun at all.
I did the same thing on my 07 escalade all-wheel drive In my driveway with a floor jack and transmission jack. 2 days of pure fun but no more oil leak!
Three is two words for you Chanel ray, 1. education, 2. Entertain 😊👍🏻👍🏻.
working in the rustbelt, seized control arm are very common I cut the arm, burn the bushing then heat the inner sleeve bolt come out relatively easy
Ur fire fighting skills impress me,amazing
Always start at the back and move forward. Driveshaft, exhaust clamp, cross member, unplug o2 sensors, remove the one sensor, then manifold nuts. Jack transmission up to floor for clearance to remove Y pipe. I feel like I need to make pro tip videos on transmission R&R lol. I did enjoy the video as always though.
I appreciate how easy it was to work on my older ford trucks , 80's&, 90s wow , 351 / 302, after watching this one, what a pain for a leak,
I wanted to comment in your struggle to remote the exhaust bolt the music in the background makes it sound more epic like you are in a big fight (which you are) with the final boss. Just made my day. thank you for sharing keep it up you are ray of comedy relief (yet professional) in the cloudy world. Thank you
Ray, if you use a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and use 1/2" extensions the torque from your ratchet to the socket is transferred more efficiently, therefore making your job easier.
Work smarter, not harder.
I had to do that on a Honda Accord starter had a 2' , 1/2 ext
Boy am I glad that there are people around like you that I can pay to do things like this. Even back in the day when I could roll around on the ground and pull transmissions . I would never have tried something like this.
You weren't 'ENDINDING' the transmission, you're only part way though it!!
Another informative video, thanks for posting.
Another great video, always informative and a few good laughs!!! Your best bet seeing as how he went to home depot would be to get the Diablo blades but make sure to get the ones that say thick metal. I had to do the same thing on a vehicle and went through a dozen blades before I got the diablo blades and it went through all 4 control arms like nothing. It may have taken 2 blades but compared to the dozen I wasted before I was thoroughly impressed.
I sell Diablo blades. They’re the best on the market. A close second is CMT. My customers are mainly working with wood, but we sell to a few metal guys and they all ask for Diablo. In a side by side, the CMT is about equal, just not as well known since they aren’t in the box stores.
@@stevewhiting556 the milwaukee torch ones work good enough for me, just buy the multi pack
It’s amazing how much better your videos are from a year ago. For me it’s all in the comments and funny stuff, like: gravity, Mocking of house phone ringer, brake cleaner hazing
I think you should invest in some of those ball sockets. Literally a U joint type but with a ball instead, and it is very useful with impact equipment.
Nice video! I like that you don't fast forward through everything.
When I took my manifold flange nuts off, I figured they'd be typical rust-belt fasteners and either snap or require copious amounts of blue-tip wrench use. So I just went straight to the 1/2" cordless full-auto ugga-dugga dispenser (impact wrench). Surprisingly, all 6 came right off with little effort.
Congratulations Raymond on over 400,000 plus subscribers good work BROTHER!! 🙂👍
Ray you Crack me up. Ever since the harbor freight incident.. you call it out every time you use one. Keep the videos rolling
Ray, I meant to congratulate you when you hit 400K subscribers. Congratulations on getting 402K subscribers! Phenomenal!
I start everyday with you and my coffee ☕️. So if I screw up in my day I always think back on your day and I don't feel so bad 🎶.
I sure wished I would learn that a long time ago. Whenever you talk nicely to a piece or to a part. They come loose they come out. Why didn't I think of that. Have a good day ray.
Tons of progress in this video Nice work Ray Thanks for the entertainment Brother @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Thats a lesson for all stuck bolts and nuts, if you dont open when asked you get a visit from terry the torch.
4:00 perfect music for the climactic final battle with the Rusty Exhaust Bolts
Love the bad wolves zombies in the background 14 minutes in😂
Im fortunate enough to get this job at least once a week and they always make me replace the oil pan gasket at the same time. So lucky especially when its 4 wheel drive.
I've bought Doorman vent door actuators for my 07 Monte and within weeks it started clicking again ... I just thought it was a poor design of the part itself (course at the time I didn't know that Doorman was a knock off of sorts). When I was at the dealer having an alignment, they replaced and reprogrammed the ones that were clicking ... that's been a year or two now and no clicking.... It wasn't until Ray mentioned that AC Delco made them and that Doorman was a cheap replacement/substitute.... Thanks to this, I'll be doing more searching for OEM/AC Delco parts that's not a zip tie, tape, etc.
Ray, if you read this, I'd like to thank you, for your toolbox tour. Apparently the phone listened to you say harbor freight so many times.....all the ads that show up now are for them. Thanks Buddy! Lol
thanks on reminding why I stop doing mechanic work..
Looking good with the new glasses. Great work as always
There's a lot of voodoo around these rear mains. They are notorious for leaking and there's a lot of ways it can be installed wrong which will result in a leak. I'm not an expert. However, there is a special alignment tool to replace the rear main and rear cover seal. It's like a large deep washer that fits over the crank. This centers the cover plate. Basically you install the cover plate without the rear main seal using the alignment tool. Then using the alignment tool once the plate is centered and bolts snugged down, you install the rear main seal using the alignment tool to tap it into place. The alignment tool ensures proper alignment of the cover and is also the right size to tap in the rear main seal itself. It is very possible to misalign the rear cover without the tool!! Not a job you want to do twice. The special alignment tool is only $25, I bought one to do this job. Currently debating going with the the rtv in the bottom corners or not. I'm thinking I will try dry. Reason being is the bottom of the cover uses the oil pan gasket to seal. So unless you rtv on the oil pan side (which would require removing the oil pan) putting rtv in the corners you're only getting one side of the gasket. Actually it looks like someone already did this job, as evidenced by the rtv in the corners of the cover plate. From factory I believe it's dry. So this vehicle is on its second rear main and looks like the first replacement also leaked. They are seriously finicky. Use fel pro or OEM genuine, follow all recommendations. Honestly your best bet is to do the oil pan and rear main gaskets together. If you try and just replace one or the other, you may run into trouble since they work in conjunction. So a brand new rear cover and rear seal installed with the old oil pan gasket, may not work since the bottom of the cover seals on the oil pan. You'll need new oil pan gasket (dry) and new rear cover and rear main seal. Rtv or not on the corners of the rear cover is up to you. Most people do this but with fel pro gaskets all correctly installed, dry might be better option actually.
Always enjoy your videos explain what happens to a flex plate when neutral drops happen. Replaced a few cracked or broken flex plates from young customers performing smoke shows. Up North we wear a holster with a cutting torch inside since it is our best friend, when indought the torch comes out.
I'm here every video no matter what it is about!!
A touchy feely mechaneck you be. Keep the humor and all goes well.
top notch intro! watched it a couple of times! you are gonna be amazed at the stuff that winds up on your glasses that would have gotten into your eyes.
Amazing to me how all the wiring still works after a procedure like this given the age of the plastics.
Giggity! Old Quagmeyer would be proud Ray. That was a lot of fluid
17:04 a heat shield, good idea, especially with that exhaust jammed in there.
21:10 I thought he was about to say, "Massive failures have been made when folks try to... sing when they can't and shouldn't try."
on the bright side no copyright bots bust bad singing...
Thanks Brother. Got one to do on an ‘02
The breakfast bunch at it again. 7:30 vidjeo great start to a day
The intro sounded like me working on my cars in the garage 😂😂😂
Nice work, Ray. Get yourself a set of bullethead extensions, I use them everyday. Much better than a floppy socket at the end. You can use the up to about 30 degrees and you can apply more force without shooting off bolts. 👍
who makes these ??
@@tedmich I have a set from BGS, I don’t know which brands there are in the U.S.
Nice job, lucky you had your glasses on. You make a tough job look not so tough. Love your attitude towards your work.
Welcoming back !
Graet work Ray. the new specs saved that oil getting in your eye ball. Great save, as that would have stung.
this vid reminded me why im NoT car mechanic ..good job
The man who taught me boat mechanics used to say u could/should tighten a nut first after a spray of break free. It seems to work 80% of the time when faced with rusted or seized bolts/nuts. Reverse click.
Some people never listen Rainman, a cut off wheel and an angle grinder would be the best tool for removing the bolts from the lower a arms.
That Tahoe was just excited to see you, no one's touched her there in years...
Good job , when I was i was wrenching full time the explitives were flying , on those crazy bolts that hold up a job 45 min😳
Bloody exhaust flangeeeees area pain in the butt. Top job so far Ray
The way I like to do these manifold bolts is with transmission fluid if you have the time. Soak them down and give it time to penetrate. Run the engine for a short period Of time it doesn't take long at all for the manifolds to get hot them use the impact to crack them loose they usually come loose pretty easily at that point.
In 2 months, you should be close to 500K. Flying along Ray!
I remember doing this on the ground with the cars on jackstands. Good times.
A good trick I was taught was to use some pipe joint compound when trying to remove screws that are stuck and starting to strip= it gives grip to the screwdriver head avoiding slipping=it may work on nuts as well.....try it it works!
Every time I see a video about leaking / blown seals reminds me of a great joke, whose punchline is
"The mechanic looks up and says "It looks like you blew a seal."
"No no," the penguin replies, "it's just ice cream."
LOL, look it up, its great! 😁
Hmm, I smell fire. Looks down casually Aaaah there it is. Just steps on it. Crisis averted. The way you handle things is hilarious
Being from Maine working in an exhaust shop we always put heat into the exhaust manifold flanges if not you would snap every stud right off