Sounds like some great memories! wish the arcades at the pizzerias made a comeback again! I guess that since it hardly takes no time at all to make them now, it might be pointless but hey, one can dream.
Always have loved Ghosts 'N Goblins probably since I first encountered it at our local movie theater around 1985-1986 in my early to mid teens. On my 15th birthday in December of '86, I bought it for the NES with birthday money along with The Legend of Kage at the mall. I surprised my friend Rodney when I completed the NES version twice (as required to get the true ending), especially since there is no save option or code (although there are limitless continues). Great job getting this back up and running man!
What a story Tman! really impressive about the double run by the way! Glad to have saved this one and will try to put up a vid on it soon. It sure wont be a double loop though lol! Hope you are doing well!
You know it! Lol, sometimes works better than the test light lol. Btw, I think I need to order another Capcom adapter from you in the future. Too many boards and would be nice to have an extra one 😊
It lives again! Thanks man! That sounds like a pretty awesome memory for sure. The idea of a seaside arcade seems cool 😎👍 Thanks for the story and checking in as usual! Hope your gaming streams continue to go smoothly and do well!!
Amazing job as always finding and repairing the problem, I have a bootleg of this board and it has an issue where it just freezes. You have inspired me to try and navigate through a possible fix. Thanks again for the great videos!
Thanks a lot Scott! Give it a shot and see what you can find. It may be a bad connection issue as well. Check the ribbon cable connectors and check the soldering points on the bottom of them. They may be cracked. if so, use some flux and solder and add some fresh solder. Hope you can figure it out!
Well done, Luke. These masked boards are a pita. Also, the finger probe is an underrated and overlooked piece of test equipment. You'll be surprised at how many faults I've found using the finger probe.
Thank you so much monstermug! I couldnt agree more! the human body can be a great tool in itself for checking these boards, as long as you dont use the wrong parts lol.
@@lukemorse1 kneel down and shoot one of the first lot of grave stones several times. It's one of the first 3. I think it's the 2nd or 3rd one. Keep hitting it and after 7-8 times and you get turned into a frog. Give it a go.
Thanks a million my friend! RIGHT!! ? at the end there, that was so unfair lol. Made me second guess if repairing it was the right decision or not lol 😂 😁
Hey there man, always good to hear from you. Glad to have another board going and looking forward to making a vid on some game play soon. Take care man and thanks again
I can totally relate to that. I was having such a "fun" time even with the schematics trying to find out what was up with it. Not fun at all. The missing sprites with yours might have been tied to those IC's on the back but I realize its a little too late now. Maybe this vid will come in handy for the future though? one can only hope.
Bonjour Luke ! I don't understand anything, but it's so interesting to see you fixing these PCBs. I wouldn't be able to do it, moreover a Capcom that I particularly like. Bravo et merci Luke, encore une belle vidéo ! ;)
Bonjor Retro gaming a papa!! Thank you as always! I'm sure if you tried something simple first, you would get better and eventually be able to do it yourself as well!! Thanks for dropping by again. Merci boku!!
@@lukemorse1 No No My brother you cant thank me i should thank you :)i dont miss any of your( GOLD) vidoes ! Me and my few friends here (jordan-amman) we stuck like you in GOLDEN time 80s and 90s :( keep going you have all the support from us :) Wiw
Thanks Ninja Master! I try with these things as much as possible but you are right about the TTL's for sure. I was really hoping I had it early on as well but what can you do eh? At least it is running again and I plan on taking out some of those other Fujitsu's here soon so I wont have to worry about them in the future.
Doctor Lukemorse1 does it again 👍 Another classic Arcade PCB nursed back to health 💪😎 It's a shame though that this board wasn't one of those boards that were full of nasty creepy crawlies as it was so much fun listening to Luke describe how those nasty stuff smelled 😊
Haha! Sometimes NOT having the bugs on the board is a plus :) glad I was able to get this one back to fully working again though. Another one saved from the grave! Thanks Cahos
Thank you so much! To be honest, its a learning process for me as well as I go along. Figuring out what might be wrong and ruling out what isnt the problem. Still a long way to go.
Somthing funky is going on here kids...let me whip out my test light an start the magic. Would be a labor of love to map the board via by via. Almost like rebuilding a skyline from frame. Eating a pizza...sitting back waiting for the connection to found an de duced...only a matter of time for the Lukester to sniff it out. An dont think I would not of enjoyed the whole search mission. 😉🍻 alwAys amazed at the skill . Enjoy the weekend Brother God bless
Kevin my man, you are a true gem! thanks as always brother for the positivity and good vibes, I really appreciate it! Glad you came along for the ride on this one and Ill see what else we can come across here in the future! Hope you also have an amazing weekend!!
Good question. There are a few reasons for this. 1st is that if the board had a problem with this IC before, there is a chance it could have the same problem in the future so it makes it easy to replace. 2nd, If the replaced IC isnt up to spec, is damaged, or is a fake IC (that happens from time to time), it would mean that the IC would have to be removed again. Sockets make the swap out process easier. 3rd as a rule of thumb, when replacing IC's it is always better to socket them because when you remove an IC you add heat to the board as well as the via's which weakens them each time you heat them up. In some cases, you can wind up ripping out a via, losing the pad to solder to, or rip a trace which you will have to patch and repair. Essentially, putting in a socket prevents further damage to the board in the future and allows for easier repair/trouble shooting in the future. So many reasons to add sockets, (obviously a whole board with sockets is quite rare) but usually these are some reasons why :)
@@lukemorse1 Wow great answer Luke! Thank you! I have in the junk pile a Centipede board that has no less than 30!! rusty, corroded chips that need replaced. I went ahead and found and ordered all that are bad. I thought it would be a good board for me to learn on. (board is bad but maybe salvageable) I'll end up spending way more on it than what its worth but what the hell?!? I thought of just soldering the chips right back on but your ideas make much more sense. Now I need to get some sockets as well... You vids have inspired me to try! Please keep them coming!
A bit excessive but honestly, if the schematics werent available for Ghosts n' Goblins, people still wouldnt know know to repair other Capcom pcb's like this as there are no schematics for them. Several people keep going back to the GnG manual to figure out games like Legendary Wings, Black Dragon, etc.
Luke, I have a bootleg version of this board and I had a sprite glitches. It was some one of the 7400 chips. GnG has so many logic chips on it! Painful to work on!
Does the piggy back test method only work on ram chips? I could possibly have a bad Yamaha YM3014B. If I piggy back with a good one in theory it should work or start seeing smoke and kill the board? Your thoughts.
Great question man. The answer is yes and no. The piggyback method will work with many ICs but there are some ICs that have a clock circuit or may go bad if jumped with even a similar IC. For sound chips, ram, gates, etc, you can usually try that method. Even with maskroms you can piggyback an EPROM (as long as it is the same). With the sound sections of boards, the Yamaha ICs have a tendency to go bad often as well as the amp attached to heat sinks or bad capacitors, ram etc. First, Try the piggyback with the ram and YM amps and see if that changes. If you get sound, you are golden 😁
@@lukemorse1 Well sort of worked. Anytime touching the chip the static would disappear. Replaced both YM3014B chips. No more static on boot up. Fixed that. As for the SFX still sounds muffled which could be a bad ram chip. I more or less know where it is. Speech and music is fine. BTW this is a Robocop Version 1. Rom board is fine CPU board is what I'm working on. I've already replaced 2 bad ram chips tc5565 just to get it running. As usual thanx for the inspiration... What you do is an art form...
My double axle when it loads the taito symbol is scrambled thwn the title screen is scrambled. Then just some of the background is scrambled. I dont know which chip to check
Good question. The IC's that I replaced in this video are all drop in replacements and no programming is done. When you start talking about a PROM or EPROM you will need to have a programmer handy for those. Not all programmers can program PROMS though and the replacements are sometimes not available. As a rule of thumb, just make sure not to damage those. You can check what it is by entering the part number into google.
Great repair, I've a Popeye single board bootleg with graphic problems like the Popeye after booting is incomplete an the sprites ingame are incomplete. I read that the RAMs 2114 could be the problem. What's your opinion?
Bro do you have a method to get in contact with? I have a question or to see if you can help me with a situation. I recently purchased a naomi sun power supply off ebay and it was listed as not tested. I swapped out the major caps and it worked for a few I plugged it in twice 2x just to make sure it was okay but the minute I placed it back into the chassis it stopped working :( idk if maybe it came in contact with some metal and cause some points to short or what but I wanted to see if maybe you can take a look at it or help me.
LUKE MORSE, when having graphic issues I have seen other repair tech take the logic probe and short bridge two data lines on the IC chip going down the chips pins one by one shorting bridge them using a logic probe and watching the display to see if the graphics get worse. I'm not sure what the technique is called try to find out the name but if the graphics get worse then they know which IC chip is bad. Try it out in your new troubleshooting videos
hello~ I recently bought this game pcb japanese version but there are some problems. When I play after 3 stage, background graphics occur some glitchs. For example, there is a wall in which some pixels change another wall image.(a brown pixel in huge blue wall. or wall pixel in ladder.) which ic or eprom has problem??? could you know it to me?? plz😭😭😭
Putting in about 5 hours of time, effort and passion is a true labor of love - never change who you are Luke 👍
Thank you so much David! I really appreciate it a lot man. You too! keep on doing what you do and enjoying life as go🙌
These old boards are precious relics of a golden age. Great work as usual!
I totally agree and I'll try to showcase the ones that get repaired when I can. Thanks a lot as usual!
I remember playing this at our local round table pizza back when i was 4 yys old in the 90's
Sounds like some great memories! wish the arcades at the pizzerias made a comeback again! I guess that since it hardly takes no time at all to make them now, it might be pointless but hey, one can dream.
@@lukemorse1 yes yes, ughhh the good ol days
Always have loved Ghosts 'N Goblins probably since I first encountered it at our local movie theater around 1985-1986 in my early to mid teens. On my 15th birthday in December of '86, I bought it for the NES with birthday money along with The Legend of Kage at the mall.
I surprised my friend Rodney when I completed the NES version twice (as required to get the true ending), especially since there is no save option or code (although there are limitless continues).
Great job getting this back up and running man!
What a story Tman! really impressive about the double run by the way! Glad to have saved this one and will try to put up a vid on it soon. It sure wont be a double loop though lol! Hope you are doing well!
Fantastic game use to play this on my dads computer in the early 90s. Im glad you were able to get the game working flawlessly again.
Thanks a million 😁!
You and me both. I was getting a bit flustered with not finding the fault but good to have it running again!
Ah.... the good old finger on the pins fault finder. Nice to see another classic back up and running again.
You know it! Lol, sometimes works better than the test light lol. Btw, I think I need to order another Capcom adapter from you in the future. Too many boards and would be nice to have an extra one 😊
@@lukemorse1 Anytime Luke, just let me know what you need.
Super repair Luke 👍
Another classic PCB saved!
Remember first seeing this 1986 in a seaside arcade as a 14yr old. Take it easy buddy 👍 🤠
It lives again! Thanks man! That sounds like a pretty awesome memory for sure. The idea of a seaside arcade seems cool 😎👍
Thanks for the story and checking in as usual! Hope your gaming streams continue to go smoothly and do well!!
@@lukemorse1 This game was so amazing to me at that time.
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated. Have a great week 😀✌
Amazing job as always finding and repairing the problem, I have a bootleg of this board and it has an issue where it just freezes. You have inspired me to try and navigate through a possible fix. Thanks again for the great videos!
Thanks a lot Scott! Give it a shot and see what you can find. It may be a bad connection issue as well. Check the ribbon cable connectors and check the soldering points on the bottom of them. They may be cracked. if so, use some flux and solder and add some fresh solder. Hope you can figure it out!
Well done, Luke. These masked boards are a pita. Also, the finger probe is an underrated and overlooked piece of test equipment. You'll be surprised at how many faults I've found using the finger probe.
Thank you so much monstermug! I couldnt agree more! the human body can be a great tool in itself for checking these boards, as long as you dont use the wrong parts lol.
This is one of my favourites. I hope one day to have it in my cabinet. Interesting pattern on the pcb.
I love this game. I think it was the first game Easter egg I knew and could pull off, by changing yourself into a frog. It's useless but fun to do.
What a neat little point! I never knew you could do that! the things you learn eh? It is a cool game though.
@@lukemorse1 kneel down and shoot one of the first lot of grave stones several times. It's one of the first 3. I think it's the 2nd or 3rd one. Keep hitting it and after 7-8 times and you get turned into a frog.
Give it a go.
I love watching these repairs ❤
Thank you so much Ramon! Glad you enjoyed it :)
PCB repair master Luke, great job! :) What a cheap death at the end :D
Thanks a million my friend! RIGHT!! ? at the end there, that was so unfair lol. Made me second guess if repairing it was the right decision or not lol 😂 😁
Fantastic job Luke =D Always enjoy your repairs!!!
Hey there man, always good to hear from you. Glad to have another board going and looking forward to making a vid on some game play soon.
Take care man and thanks again
Nice find, I would have guessed the glitching was a timing issue.
It's pretty crazy right. These boards throw all kinds of curveballs at you. Just glad to have found it.
this board is a real challenge without visible traces - i ended up selling mine with missing sprites
I can totally relate to that. I was having such a "fun" time even with the schematics trying to find out what was up with it. Not fun at all. The missing sprites with yours might have been tied to those IC's on the back but I realize its a little too late now. Maybe this vid will come in handy for the future though? one can only hope.
Yay!! A repair vid. My favorite!
Lol, you know I put them up when I can 😂
Bonjour Luke !
I don't understand anything, but it's so interesting to see you fixing these PCBs.
I wouldn't be able to do it, moreover a Capcom that I particularly like.
Bravo et merci Luke, encore une belle vidéo ! ;)
Bonjor Retro gaming a papa!!
Thank you as always! I'm sure if you tried something simple first, you would get better and eventually be able to do it yourself as well!! Thanks for dropping by again. Merci boku!!
Luke you got the magic touch I swear
HAHA!! the magic 5 hour touch. I touched this thing to death but at least it is up and running so Im glad. Thanks Jake!!
You play better with one hand than I do with two.
LMAO!! haha, totally not intentional (maybe a bit of luck there as well) but I appreciate it! Practice, practice, practice! thanks Stephen!
Brother! your a Golden light from Golden time :( thanks for all your videos
Stuck in Golden Time permanently I think but glad I can share it with those who are interested. Thanks a million!
@@lukemorse1 No No My brother you cant thank me i should thank you :)i dont miss any of your( GOLD) vidoes ! Me and my few friends here (jordan-amman) we stuck like you in GOLDEN time 80s and 90s :(
keep going you have all the support from us :)
Wiw
I need to get back to my GnG board. This has inspired me!!!
TTLs are so hard to work with, I thought you had it with 44. I like how you don't just use the parts canon from the start and try and find it.
Thanks Ninja Master! I try with these things as much as possible but you are right about the TTL's for sure. I was really hoping I had it early on as well but what can you do eh? At least it is running again and I plan on taking out some of those other Fujitsu's here soon so I wont have to worry about them in the future.
Nice one , Luke 👏🏻i love this game 👍🏻
Doctor Lukemorse1 does it again 👍 Another classic Arcade PCB nursed back to health 💪😎
It's a shame though that this board wasn't one of those boards that were full of nasty creepy crawlies as it was so much fun listening to Luke describe how those nasty stuff smelled 😊
Haha! Sometimes NOT having the bugs on the board is a plus :) glad I was able to get this one back to fully working again though. Another one saved from the grave! Thanks Cahos
Great job. I wish you gave lessons. Thanks for showing.
Thank you so much! To be honest, its a learning process for me as well as I go along. Figuring out what might be wrong and ruling out what isnt the problem. Still a long way to go.
Somthing funky is going on here kids...let me whip out my test light an start the magic. Would be a labor of love to map the board via by via. Almost like rebuilding a skyline from frame. Eating a pizza...sitting back waiting for the connection to found an de duced...only a matter of time for the Lukester to sniff it out. An dont think I would not of enjoyed the whole search mission. 😉🍻 alwAys amazed at the skill . Enjoy the weekend Brother God bless
Beats fire brand with one hand...legend is growing.
Kevin my man, you are a true gem! thanks as always brother for the positivity and good vibes, I really appreciate it! Glad you came along for the ride on this one and Ill see what else we can come across here in the future! Hope you also have an amazing weekend!!
Luke, when replacing those chips why do you socket them and not just solder them directly back to the board?
Good question. There are a few reasons for this. 1st is that if the board had a problem with this IC before, there is a chance it could have the same problem in the future so it makes it easy to replace. 2nd, If the replaced IC isnt up to spec, is damaged, or is a fake IC (that happens from time to time), it would mean that the IC would have to be removed again. Sockets make the swap out process easier. 3rd as a rule of thumb, when replacing IC's it is always better to socket them because when you remove an IC you add heat to the board as well as the via's which weakens them each time you heat them up. In some cases, you can wind up ripping out a via, losing the pad to solder to, or rip a trace which you will have to patch and repair. Essentially, putting in a socket prevents further damage to the board in the future and allows for easier repair/trouble shooting in the future. So many reasons to add sockets, (obviously a whole board with sockets is quite rare) but usually these are some reasons why :)
@@lukemorse1 Wow great answer Luke! Thank you!
I have in the junk pile a Centipede board that has no less than 30!! rusty, corroded chips that need replaced. I went ahead and found and ordered all that are bad. I thought it would be a good board for me to learn on. (board is bad but maybe salvageable)
I'll end up spending way more on it than what its worth but what the hell?!?
I thought of just soldering the chips right back on but your ideas make much more sense. Now I need to get some sockets as well...
You vids have inspired me to try! Please keep them coming!
Wonderful Content. Thank You For Sharing. Have a good day!❤👍
Thank you very much. I really appreciate it. Have a good day as well!
The lengths they went through to prevent people from X-raying the boards! I guess they stopped doing it because it made the boards harder to service.
Really, that's why they did that odd mask? We're they getting ripped that badly back then by knockoffs or just paranoid?
A bit excessive but honestly, if the schematics werent available for Ghosts n' Goblins, people still wouldnt know know to repair other Capcom pcb's like this as there are no schematics for them. Several people keep going back to the GnG manual to figure out games like Legendary Wings, Black Dragon, etc.
Luke, I have a bootleg version of this board and I had a sprite glitches. It was some one of the 7400 chips. GnG has so many logic chips on it! Painful to work on!
I loved your last jump😂
That was totally unfair! The game cheated so bad there 🤣
Does the piggy back test method only work on ram chips? I could possibly have a bad Yamaha YM3014B. If I piggy back with a good one in theory it should work or start seeing smoke and kill the board? Your thoughts.
Great question man. The answer is yes and no. The piggyback method will work with many ICs but there are some ICs that have a clock circuit or may go bad if jumped with even a similar IC. For sound chips, ram, gates, etc, you can usually try that method. Even with maskroms you can piggyback an EPROM (as long as it is the same). With the sound sections of boards, the Yamaha ICs have a tendency to go bad often as well as the amp attached to heat sinks or bad capacitors, ram etc. First, Try the piggyback with the ram and YM amps and see if that changes. If you get sound, you are golden 😁
@@lukemorse1 Well sort of worked. Anytime touching the chip the static would disappear. Replaced both YM3014B chips. No more static on boot up. Fixed that. As for the SFX still sounds muffled which could be a bad ram chip. I more or less know where it is. Speech and music is fine. BTW this is a Robocop Version 1. Rom board is fine CPU board is what I'm working on. I've already replaced 2 bad ram chips tc5565 just to get it running. As usual thanx for the inspiration... What you do is an art form...
Hi Luke, can you do some visit game shop video?
its so weird to see a PCB like that,, with the circles
awesome job
Thanks a million Eddie!
My double axle when it loads the taito symbol is scrambled thwn the title screen is scrambled. Then just some of the background is scrambled. I dont know which chip to check
hi , so are the chips just drop in replacments or do they need to be programmed ? still learning
Good question. The IC's that I replaced in this video are all drop in replacements and no programming is done. When you start talking about a PROM or EPROM you will need to have a programmer handy for those. Not all programmers can program PROMS though and the replacements are sometimes not available. As a rule of thumb, just make sure not to damage those. You can check what it is by entering the part number into google.
@@lukemorse1 ok thanks very much , very helpful.
I see... a game that was already pretty scary has become haunted.
(though the Famicom version I hear is the real terror)
21:25 *WOW... A bogus pattern ahead of it's time* .
Nice work! And… patience 😄
Great repair, I've a Popeye single board bootleg with graphic problems like the Popeye after booting is incomplete an the sprites ingame are incomplete. I read that the RAMs 2114 could be the problem. What's your opinion?
Bro do you have a method to get in contact with? I have a question or to see if you can help me with a situation. I recently purchased a naomi sun power supply off ebay and it was listed as not tested. I swapped out the major caps and it worked for a few I plugged it in twice 2x just to make sure it was okay but the minute I placed it back into the chassis it stopped working :( idk if maybe it came in contact with some metal and cause some points to short or what but I wanted to see if maybe you can take a look at it or help me.
LUKE MORSE, when having graphic issues I have seen other repair tech take the logic probe and short bridge two data lines on the IC chip going down the chips pins one by one shorting bridge them using a logic probe and watching the display to see if the graphics get worse. I'm not sure what the technique is called try to find out the name but if the graphics get worse then they know which IC chip is bad. Try it out in your new troubleshooting videos
Nice repair 👍
Thank you Tony my man! always appreciate it ✌😁
hi do u have eprom for cherry master pcb board ??
hello~ I recently bought this game pcb japanese version but there are some problems. When I play after 3 stage, background graphics occur some glitchs. For example, there is a wall in which some pixels change another wall image.(a brown pixel in huge blue wall. or wall pixel in ladder.) which ic or eprom has problem??? could you know it to me?? plz😭😭😭
Good video thanks
Thank you so much. Thanks for watching!
Dont tell me you have warts that's nasty