The bits about setting the carbs linkages and measuring the fuel output with the ink filling tube are wonderful, and something I've never seen anywhere else. Thank you so much for putting this together. You clearly know what you are doing! The balancing/synchro process was glossed over a bit, but there are TONS of resources for that out there. This is easily the best video I've seen in ages!
I cant tell you how much this has helped me! thank you soo much!!!! couple of notes for any one trying to follow this: dont take the 8.55-8.65mm throttle clearance as a the exact measurements needed to set up your carbs. each carb will be slightly different ( it is 40years old at the end of the day). What your looking for is the throttle valve clearance to be 0.1mm. so do as it says in this video but take your measurement with the throttle valve fully closed and on the stop. Then with your vernia add 0.1mm and then adjust the stop. As for fast idle clearance. if you dont have a proper gauge or a 0.6-0.65mm tig weld rod. i managed to use a pin from a sewing kit (not a needle) which was 0.63mm and it worked great.
As long as the petrol inlet needle valve is good, the pressure correct so that there's no flooding and with the volume screws at a basic setting and the bypass idle system turned off/closed, assuming the motor starts, is warm, and there are no air leaks then you can use an airflow meter to set the butterflies. Worked a treat on mine. It read about 10 on each side at slow idle (ca.500 rpm). After that, reconnect the bypass idle, set the speed and the mixture, then use the airflow meter again to set the linkage position. The worst job is the choke lever linkage for fast idle, but should also be possible to set if you're quick by disconnecting the 12V from both choke units and measuring the airflow at fast idle. By the way, if you're using one of those commercially available airflow meters you'll need a piece of plastic waste pipe the same size as the venturi opening as an extension to the meter.
Hello, Thanks for your comment, I must re-do this video..6 years old already!! If you want plastic waste pipes..here you go.. ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html Cordialement,
When you adjusted the butterfly with your vernier at 8.65mm your hand was covering so could see which side you were measuring. It was around 10.36 minutes into video.
I’ve come back to this video as it’s the only one I can find that makes sense. Haynes manual is pretty useless as are several on line articles which seem to vastly overcomplicate the subject. The bit that puzzled me is measuring the gaps on the butterfly. For warm idle you use a vernier caliper but what I think you are doing is using the back end of the instrument as a depth gauge. I’ve never used one of these, but I’m guessing that you are measuring from the bottom of the carb to the flap in fully closed position then setting the gauge to 0.1 mm less, and opening the flap to reach this position. This is why the two readings are 8.65 and 8.55 mm. I’m guessing you could do much the same with a 0.1 mm feeler gauge, and at the next stage too when a 0.6 mm wire is used to set the fast idle.
I simply can not get enough of these Aircooled CU engine videos. I have a 1982 CU T25. Rebuilt the left carb a short while ago. Seems to run alright but noticed fast idling when stopped at lights, t-junctions etc.
Hello, Thanks for your comment..:-) If the revs rise after a short tick-over.. try spraying some wd 40 (or similar) over the tube connections.. if the revs drop,, then it may well be an air leak. Hope this helps, Cordialement.
I've referred to this video so many times - it's a great resource for setting up my carbs. I just had my engine rebuilt and am a bit unsure about the tappet noise. It's not changed since the rebuild and a garage once asked if I had dodgy hydraulic tappets. I don't, it's a late CJ with solid lifters and aluminium pushrods. The sound is remarkably like the engine in your video so I was reassured that the sound is normal, but then I thought that it's likely you've got hydraulic tappets and perhaps they are not fully pumped up if you've just got the engine on the bench. Can you comment? Many thanks.
Hello, From some early videos: ua-cam.com/video/4qayyc9Z4E0/v-deo.html ..... and.... ua-cam.com/video/dsfo5ATgBp0/v-deo.html You hear the tappets better... Hope this helps, Cordialement,
These are good carbs but some parts are no longer available for them, the little "heater" called the idle fuel enrichment part, is no longer available. Also many of these carbs are worn out and not usable. There are new replacement solex's available that work quite well. The center holly/weber setup sucks big time, I don't recommend that at all!! When ever you change the carbs on one of these you have to check your distributer and make sure there's no vacuum pull at idle, sometimes you may need to buy an 009 Distributer also. On the factory bus carbs the most important thing to realize is the idle adjustments are made on the LEFT CARB after certain pre-sets such as the throttle plates being almost closed. The replacement solex kits out there are completely different from these carbs and each one needs to be set up at idle and then synchronized.
Hello, so you need 0.6 and 0.8 mm wires. Either visit a friendly TIG welder and ask nicely for a couple of filler rods..or a welding tip cleaner. Cordialement,
Thank you for a great video, I have a bus with engine1.7L dual carburetor SOLEX PDSIT 32-34 T-2(engine code: CA). How many cc shuld the Accelerator pump -(if I pump ten times and take the average). I dont think I can make 8.0 cc.. The engine runing not so good, I check the injector-tube on the right carburetor.. its little loose.. can that be a problem? Best regards from Norway...
Hello, Thank you for posting, I've just checked in various manuals, and they all say 0.7 to 0.9 ccs for 1 pump of the carb. Use a bit of thread locking compound for the injector tube, point it so it splashes over the central bar.. Cordialement
@@sarran1955 Hi again, I removed the top off the left carburetor but no gasoline coming out from the end of the accelerator pump injector. I change the accelerator pump with the accelerator pump from the right carburetor (who function very well), but the same thing happen... no gasoline coming out? I can see a little "ball" inside the accelerator pump "house", can this "ball" be the problem?? When you say "0.9 ccs" = 1ml ??Best regards from Norway.
Hi and thanks for video, though quite comprehensive, you showed nothing of the left carb set or adjust, are there any initial start set up positions.Regards from down under,oz.Evan Sievers.
Hello, watching your video again, 7yrs later. I'm running dual Solex 34 same as video, however here in warm Queensland, Australia, chokes are not really needed. Mine have been disconnected. So you spend slot of time on the choke set up. In fact all the elements the require the wiring connections are disconnected. Regards Evan Sievers.
Hello, so the hot idle screw at the bottom, is adjusted to give about 0.8 mm clearance between the butterfly and the venturi in the hot position, the main idle on top can start with 2-3 turns from shut (screwed in). make surw the rubber O rings are in place, greased with a dab of silicone grease. Hope this helps.. Cordialement,
Hi where can I get the rear pipes I seem to have a ruber hose from manifold to manifold but missing the t - piece that tee's off to the side of the left carburetor any help would be great ,where all the vacuum hoses go
Hello, Thanks for the video. Where are you getting the vacuum signal for the distributor in this setup? I'm having trouble having the proper signal (Solex 32 as well) to my vacuum advance unit, it seems like the vacuum keeps increasing even on high throttle, when it was supposed to be working on centrifugal only. Regards from Brazil
sarran1955 thanks for the response. I am using a Bosch 034 svda distributor and dual solex 32 carburettors. only one spigot our of the vacuum advance unit. Cheers
Hello, At 21 mins you see the grey balance pipe with the red and black vacuum hose sticking up. When I set the timing up the vacuum is disconnected and blanked off. then when it is correct, I can then substitute the SVDA vacuum pipe, so that the advance goes to about 24 degrees at 2400 rpm. Hope this helps. Cordialement,
Great job. I've been trying to tune my 79 auto for ages. It seems to run OK but the plugs are always black. The chokes come off as they should, but I wonder if the accelerator pumps are right. When setting up the balance what is the running order. Do you disconnect the couplings to the cross bar and tune the throttle stops to match so the vacuum is the same? Then do you reconnect and turn the small bar on the right to ensure the carbs are pulling together? I like your mod for the carb balancer. Holding the hard plastic bit to the carb is a bit inconsistent.
Andyv Hello, When I am setting up the carbs, initially on the motor, that is to say after the idle gap and the idle screw set on the bench ,then I run the engine at idle with no cross linkages connected, this allows me to set the air balance and CO at tick-over. Then the cross links are fitted , taking care that the 'cupped' adjuster bars attach correctly with no forcing. Recheck idle speed,and balance. Once you are happy with the settings, then the test to do is at tickover to disconnect the solenoid cut off on 1 carb at a time.. if the engine speed drop is about 200 rpm either side.. then you are about there. I hope this answers you question, Cordialement,
Great video, really only one that makes sense of this. Reconditioned mine as part of an engine rebuild, so here's hoping it all works! One question, can you recomend where to get spare chokes from as I suspect my L hand one is iffy/intermittant as can't get a stable ohms reading from it?
Dear Sarran, I have strived to set up the carbs as per your video but the left hand carb does not let itself adjusted to the measurements I took from your video i.e 0.856mm at non choke and 0.6mm at choke. When you say in your video 8.56 mm at warm and 0.6 at cold - did you not mean 0.856 ? Thanks
Hello, if I understand your question..then yes.. 0.856.. The important thing is to get the 2 idle butterflies the same.. even if you go a bit 'large' on the gap.. Season's Greetings.. Cordialement,
Hello, try this..let the engine run at idle, then spray WD40 (or similar) on the carb bodies, and on the flexibles, if the engine speed drops, then you have an air leak. Cordialement,
Hi There, i am trying to find an 12V electric starter for a solex 32 PDSIT, however everytime i find something it is either for a 32-34 or 34. Do you know if this starter is common to both the 32 and the 34? thanks in advance
Thanks for the video - its given me the encouragement to try and refurb my 32-34 solex carbs! I have a question about the replacement float valve that came with the kit i recently purchased - the needle in its open position on the replacement valve extends/protrudes by approx 2-3mm less than the one being replaced - will this result in too much fuel filling the chamber due to the shorther needle and can i compensate by adding more washers to the valve - or should i ty to find a different valve? Any help would be really appreciated.
Hello, Frankly, I would leave the old float valve with its washer in, unless it is obviously leaking (unlikely). The problem is you have to use different thickness washers to get the valve height right, which can itself cause problems. I will do another twin Solex video this year, as I want to fit them to my single carb 1700 CT engine.. Have you seen this video: ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html Cordialement,
Good morning, i'm proceeding at a snails pace and hope it's ok to ask what is, i'm sure such a a basic question! When it comes to using the gunson balancing device and one carburettor, lets say, is slightly higher then the other - which link or screw or setting is actually doing the balance adjustment. Ratwell says "If one reads higher, you turn the spring loaded 10mm nut on the cross bar a little and take another reading on each carb. If the idle is high you want to lower the reading of the higher of the two carbs rather than raise the reading of the lower of the two. If the idle is too low, take the reverse action" - this must be for an earlier van (mid 70'S?) becsuse my criss bar doesn't have this spring loaded nut?
@@charliepaterson6988 Hello, So what engine and vehicle model are we dealing with here? The Ratwell page is for a 1972 American spec bay. ratwell.com/technical/DualCarbs.html The engine type and serial number is on the top of the casing, in front of the turbine. European T2 bays had 2 litres for about four years, longer in the US. The earlier type is CJ, later is CU. Quite a lot of differences in heads and carbs.The heads have round exhaust ports on the CJ, squareish on the CU. The CJ carbs have a vacuum take off on both. Like this: ua-cam.com/video/4qayyc9Z4E0/v-deo.html then: ua-cam.com/video/dsfo5ATgBp0/v-deo.html However, now that you have the motor running, you should be able to run the engine at tickover with the engine warm and remove or at least disconnect the crossbar : ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html Now you can set the airflow of each carb individually. The accelerator butterfly gap(about 0.8 mm) should be set so you get the same airflow. Then you have to recheck that the linkage to the choke cam is properly adjusted. You will know when you have got it right when you can disconnect the electric feed to the carb solenoids one at a time and the engine rpm drops the same each side. When you refit the cross bar make sure the carb linkages are adjusted so they do not force. Air-Cooled Bliss...😎 Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Hi and thanks - the engine is a CU 2 ltr aircooled in a 1980 T25 - with the carbs out of the vehicle i set the fast idle and idle to your settings. I haven't put them back in yet, just renewing fuel line and other rubber pipework. Just to confirm then that when i get to setting the airflow with the accelertor butterfly gap - this is governed by the throttle stop screw?
Hi Sarran1955, HELP!!!! - thanks for a great video very helpful. I'm following the process to tune 1.8cc Type 4 Solex 32PDSIT carbs. Have set bottom butterfly without any choke to 8.65mm and also for fast idle using 0.6mm wire. With the coke plate and connecting spring OFF. When I re-attach everything these gap become considerably reduced! I think that this is due to the spring under the choke plate pulling the linkages tighter. Is this correct or should I re-do under tension with the spring attached. Many thanks... P.S. to double check these settings are the same for 1800cc engine as for 2L. Cheers and amazing videos
Hello, Do you know what year the carb/motor set up is? If it is early there will be a vacuum pipe/spigot on both carbs. The initial butterfly setting can be done with the springs off, but as you say the gap will close. The set screw is then used to open the gap as required. You will find this useful when the engine is running and you want to set the tickover speed, preferably using a vacuum gauge to see when you get a signal. This short video may be of use. ua-cam.com/video/dsfo5ATgBp0/v-deo.html Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Hiya, Thanks for the quick reply. Honestly I'm not sure what year the carb/motor set up is though the original engine that the carbs came off was 1975 1.8 AP OHV 8V before I brought a reconditioned block. The main carb has a hose for the vacuum though this has always been "blocked" off as the Dizzy doesn't have vacuum connection. The slave carb has a similar "hole" but this looks (cast) blocked. I have been going through your videos on setting up the timing and syncing the carbs, just noticed that when the the spring and choke cap where fitted this closed the gap. Would you suggest setting it with the spring attached? All gaskets on both carbs were shot hence the strip down and I couldn't get any change in RPM when adjusting idle mixer, idle speed or volume mixture - hence starting with carb refurb first then when locked is removed go back to the van and re do tappets etc put carbs back on and try again. I watched the video in the link very helpful - I have a snail, strobe light but need to get hold of a metre for RPM as the rpm gun is a little touch and go. Thanks so much for these video such a big help. Stay safe in France
@@barnabyoconnor8065 Hello, Sorry not to have got back to you earlier, I am in Argentina visiting my grandchildren and this far North the Internet drops out from time to time. OK, so there is no reason not to set up the carbs with all the springs, just use a 0.6 or 0.8 mmwire,(mig or tig welding wire is good) to set up the butterflies in the hot idle position,using the adjuster screw at the base of the carb..be careful the adjustment is fine, needing an electrician's screwdriver, 1/2 a turn either way should do. You can always re-check this once the engine has run and is hot. I do not much like the use of a centrifugal (009) distributor, you would do better to fit a SVDA dizzy, either points and condensor, or electronic. Make sure you have a compatible coil. Check my videos to see how to fit to a T4 engine. Hope this helps, Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Cheers for the helpful tips, I'll look at getting a new Dizzy but moved to Europe and its a little tricky getting parts locally. Really appreciate the advise, once this is sorted step two - jets and fuel. Enjoy Argentina, sounds very adventurous :)
@@barnabyoconnor8065 Hello, if you are now in Europe, then I recommend Serial Kombi for parts, they are good on aair-cooleds, and then Simon BBC on e bay for distributors. See separate videos. Cordialement,
I set the initial idle at 8.65 with calipers but engine ran way to fast. so I have brought the screw on the throttle plate back out as it was half way with the 8.65mm adjustment. Dont know what went wrong I now have popping on rhs 1 and 2 so I guess its check valves then leaks on vacuum side then fuel mix screw. Would a poor gasket between the carb top and body cause this?
Hello..The really important measurement.. is between the venturi wall and the throttle butterfly..0.6 mm.. so you can just see the light through... follow the rest of the procedure.. you should be controlling tickover speed with the 'master air screw on top of the left hand carb.. hope this helps, Cordialement..
Hi I’ve recently followed all your instruction to set up my carbs and replaced all vacuum lines and timing and still can not get my engine to run correctly pops and bangs from the exhaust and threw the carbs some times when revving up if you could there is a video on my channel entitled “very very cold start” if you could possibly take a look at it to see if you might be able to hear something I’m missing I would be very greatful
@@benmorris1076 Hello, nice to see people are still watching!! So, it was more of an ignition problem. Here is a more recent video with the 2L CU carbs running nicely: ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html Cordialement,
Hello, There is the cold start enricher, (the long aluminium cover with an electrical tag on the LH carb), which may be pulling a lot of current cold, try disconnecting this and see if there is a difference.. Air-Cooled Bliss
@@sarran1955 The only electrical connectors on left hand carb, are the choke-cover and both cut-off solenoids - right? I tried to take off the one of the cut-off calve connectors with the same result. Im measurng between the unplugged connector on the heater cover and the unplugged connector from the battery to the coil. The are working though =) Now the throttles are in place again. And the chokes are opening as they should. Thank you for your answer! Do your have more videos on tuning these carbs?
absolutely superb! I'm a fellow aircooled 2.0 cu fan! check my vids, not great quality! I have had mine on webers (idf's) great fuel economy surprisingly but going back to solex's to run lpg! with a little lubrication oil to keep the cylinder heads happy! never got to grips with solex's! so its new to me! your vids will definitely help!!!! keep them coming! you make what the manual try's to put across a lot easier to understand, what do you think of BROCAL solex copies???
Hello,.. liked the vids. What was your real fuel economy on the Webers? The brocals are like the '70s solexes, with a vacuum inlet on both carbs.. You will need to make up linkages.. Cordialement,
on a long journey to mayo in ireland & back o the uk I worked it out to be aroud the 26/28 mpg ballpark, I drive at a steady 56-60mph maximum,i stay on the inside with the lorrys & relax, in town/stop start driving it can be 18-20mpg, which I think is good for an old aircooled cu 2.0, I did spend at of time setting up the ignition timing & balancing the carbs! ad to rejet the carbs twice I think I cou et away with a leaner jet if I had better ignition spark/control, which I think I may get ith a product from accuspak called he black box, not too pricey really! as I say I would lie ogt my aircooed on lpg for the cheaper fuel costs but that mean going back to the solex's which to be honest I think if setup right as you have explained, some good results can be had! I think fine tuning what VW used in the 1stplace could give an equal in power & economy to the webers if the time is put in to set everything up nice! I know most vw owners cant be bothered or their mechanics but I'm DIY mechanic, I like to make it go myself :D abit oldschool i suppose, cheers for the reply saran, i'l be watching your vid & hopefully setting my old solex's up nicely at the same time - keep up the good work & interesting vw videos, really enjoying them
smallweights Hello, that is very good MPG, as for your ignition have you watched this..?Powerspark 034 SVDA distributor retrofit to a 2L VW aircooled engine .. Giving good results so far... Cordialement,
I am restoring a 1979 T2 2.0Lt and after having the engine out to repair the frame replace heat converters, crank shaft oil seal and replacing engine it ran fine but is throwing out a lot of fuel through exhaust. The right hand carb is leaking fuel and the top jet is permanently spitting fuel into the carb. Could it be stuck float valve?? any help would be much appreciated.. Nick 07930 366 406
Hello, Well the first thing is to set the carbs up as per the video..you might as well get the gasket and tune up kit as this has new float valves This is how the engine ran before the carbs were tuned: ua-cam.com/video/3nqUWst2XRo/v-deo.html Hope this helps,
The bits about setting the carbs linkages and measuring the fuel output with the ink filling tube are wonderful, and something I've never seen anywhere else. Thank you so much for putting this together. You clearly know what you are doing! The balancing/synchro process was glossed over a bit, but there are TONS of resources for that out there. This is easily the best video I've seen in ages!
I cant tell you how much this has helped me! thank you soo much!!!!
couple of notes for any one trying to follow this:
dont take the 8.55-8.65mm throttle clearance as a the exact measurements needed to set up your carbs. each carb will be slightly different ( it is 40years old at the end of the day).
What your looking for is the throttle valve clearance to be 0.1mm. so do as it says in this video but take your measurement with the throttle valve fully closed and on the stop. Then with your vernia add 0.1mm and then adjust the stop.
As for fast idle clearance. if you dont have a proper gauge or a 0.6-0.65mm tig weld rod. i managed to use a pin from a sewing kit (not a needle) which was 0.63mm and it worked great.
Thank you. That's helps!
As long as the petrol inlet needle valve is good, the pressure correct so that there's no flooding and with the volume screws at a basic setting and the bypass idle system turned off/closed, assuming the motor starts, is warm, and there are no air leaks then you can use an airflow meter to set the butterflies. Worked a treat on mine. It read about 10 on each side at slow idle (ca.500 rpm). After that, reconnect the bypass idle, set the speed and the mixture, then use the airflow meter again to set the linkage position. The worst job is the choke lever linkage for fast idle, but should also be possible to set if you're quick by disconnecting the 12V from both choke units and measuring the airflow at fast idle. By the way, if you're using one of those commercially available airflow meters you'll need a piece of plastic waste pipe the same size as the venturi opening as an extension to the meter.
Hello,
Thanks for your comment,
I must re-do this video..6 years old already!!
If you want plastic waste pipes..here you go..
ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html
Cordialement,
When you adjusted the butterfly with your vernier at 8.65mm your hand was covering so could see which side you were measuring. It was around 10.36 minutes into video.
Hello, I'm hooping to do an updated version this year..
Cordialement,
I’ve come back to this video as it’s the only one I can find that makes sense. Haynes manual is pretty useless as are several on line articles which seem to vastly overcomplicate the subject.
The bit that puzzled me is measuring the gaps on the butterfly. For warm idle you use a vernier caliper but what I think you are doing is using the back end of the instrument as a depth gauge. I’ve never used one of these, but I’m guessing that you are measuring from the bottom of the carb to the flap in fully closed position then setting the gauge to 0.1 mm less, and opening the flap to reach this position. This is why the two readings are 8.65 and 8.55 mm.
I’m guessing you could do much the same with a 0.1 mm feeler gauge, and at the next stage too when a 0.6 mm wire is used to set the fast idle.
Some really useful information there, I'll be putting it to use in the very near future, thank you! I just wish my engine was as clean as yours ;)
I simply can not get enough of these Aircooled CU engine videos. I have a 1982 CU T25. Rebuilt the left carb a short while ago. Seems to run alright but noticed fast idling when stopped at lights, t-junctions etc.
Hello,
Thanks for your comment..:-)
If the revs rise after a short tick-over.. try spraying some wd 40 (or similar) over the tube connections.. if the revs drop,, then it may well be an air leak.
Hope this helps,
Cordialement.
Hello from Norway, great Video.
Hello,
Thanks for posting.
Cordialement,
I've referred to this video so many times - it's a great resource for setting up my carbs. I just had my engine rebuilt and am a bit unsure about the tappet noise. It's not changed since the rebuild and a garage once asked if I had dodgy hydraulic tappets. I don't, it's a late CJ with solid lifters and aluminium pushrods. The sound is remarkably like the engine in your video so I was reassured that the sound is normal, but then I thought that it's likely you've got hydraulic tappets and perhaps they are not fully pumped up if you've just got the engine on the bench. Can you comment? Many thanks.
Hello,
From some early videos:
ua-cam.com/video/4qayyc9Z4E0/v-deo.html
..... and....
ua-cam.com/video/dsfo5ATgBp0/v-deo.html
You hear the tappets better...
Hope this helps,
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Excellent. All is well then.
These are good carbs but some parts are no longer available for them, the little "heater" called the idle fuel enrichment part, is no longer available. Also many of these carbs are worn out and not usable. There are new replacement solex's available that work quite well. The center holly/weber setup sucks big time, I don't recommend that at all!! When ever you change the carbs on one of these you have to check your distributer and make sure there's no vacuum pull at idle, sometimes you may need to buy an 009 Distributer also. On the factory bus carbs the most important thing to realize is the idle adjustments are made on the LEFT CARB after certain pre-sets such as the throttle plates being almost closed. The replacement solex kits out there are completely different from these carbs and each one needs to be set up at idle and then synchronized.
Thanks for all the videos.
Is there a tool available with the correct wires sizes to set the butterflies?
Hello, so you need 0.6 and 0.8 mm wires. Either visit a friendly TIG welder and ask nicely for a couple of filler rods..or a welding tip cleaner.
Cordialement,
Please can you tell me what diameter fuel lines fit these Solex carbs. thanks
Thank you for a great video, I have a bus with engine1.7L dual carburetor SOLEX PDSIT 32-34 T-2(engine code: CA). How many cc shuld the Accelerator pump -(if I pump ten times and take the average). I dont think I can make 8.0 cc.. The engine runing not so good, I check the injector-tube on the right carburetor.. its little loose.. can that be a problem? Best regards from Norway...
Hello, Thank you for posting, I've just checked in various manuals, and they all say 0.7 to 0.9 ccs for 1 pump of the carb. Use a bit of thread locking compound for the injector tube, point it so it splashes over the central bar..
Cordialement
@@sarran1955 Thank you very much
@@sarran1955 Hi again, I removed the top off the left carburetor but no gasoline coming out from the end of the accelerator pump injector. I change the accelerator pump with the accelerator pump from the right carburetor (who function very well), but the same thing happen... no gasoline coming out? I can see a little "ball" inside the accelerator pump "house", can this "ball" be the problem?? When you say "0.9 ccs" = 1ml ??Best regards from Norway.
@@Nmb402 "0.9 ccs" = 1ml yes. You may have a blocked jet/injector. I use an ultra sonic bath (from Lidl) to clean these.
Trying to get to Families place for photo shoot. 4 hour journey but have to sort out popping so I don't destroy the motor.
Hi and thanks for video, though quite comprehensive, you showed nothing of the left carb set or adjust, are there any initial start set up positions.Regards from down under,oz.Evan Sievers.
Hello, left carb is set up the same as right, the only difference being that the LHS has the idle speed control 'horn'. Hope this helps.
Hello, watching your video again, 7yrs later.
I'm running dual Solex 34 same as video, however here in warm Queensland, Australia, chokes are not really needed.
Mine have been disconnected. So you spend slot of time on the choke set up. In fact all the elements the require the wiring connections are disconnected.
Regards Evan Sievers.
Hi you know the left hand carb, with the two idle speed screws,is there a "base" setting for these? Great explanation by the way
Hello, so the hot idle screw at the bottom, is adjusted to give about 0.8 mm clearance between the butterfly and
the venturi in the hot position, the main idle on top can start with 2-3 turns from shut (screwed in). make surw the rubber O rings are in place, greased with a dab of silicone grease. Hope this helps..
Cordialement,
Hi where can I get the rear pipes I seem to have a ruber hose from manifold to manifold but missing the t - piece that tee's off to the side of the left carburetor any help would be great ,where all the vacuum hoses go
Hello, I would suggest you look on a T3/25 forum.
Pictures of the system also on forums, Haynes or Bentley manuals...
Cordialement,
Hello, Thanks for the video.
Where are you getting the vacuum signal for the distributor in this setup? I'm having trouble having the proper signal (Solex 32 as well) to my vacuum advance unit, it seems like the vacuum keeps increasing even on high throttle, when it was supposed to be working on centrifugal only.
Regards from Brazil
Hello,
What distributor are you using..does it have 1 or 2 spigots out of the vacuum advance unit?
Cordialement..
sarran1955
thanks for the response. I am using a Bosch 034 svda distributor and dual solex 32 carburettors. only one spigot our of the vacuum advance unit.
Cheers
Hello,
At 21 mins you see the grey balance pipe with the red and black vacuum hose sticking up. When I set the timing up the vacuum is disconnected and blanked off. then when it is correct, I can then substitute the SVDA vacuum pipe, so that the advance goes to about 24 degrees at 2400 rpm.
Hope this helps.
Cordialement,
Great job. I've been trying to tune my 79 auto for ages. It seems to run OK but the plugs are always black. The chokes come off as they should, but I wonder if the accelerator pumps are right.
When setting up the balance what is the running order. Do you disconnect the couplings to the cross bar and tune the throttle stops to match so the vacuum is the same? Then do you reconnect and turn the small bar on the right to ensure the carbs are pulling together?
I like your mod for the carb balancer. Holding the hard plastic bit to the carb is a bit inconsistent.
Andyv
Hello, When I am setting up the carbs, initially on the motor, that is to say after the idle gap and the idle screw set on the bench ,then I run the engine at idle with no cross linkages connected, this allows me to set the air balance and CO at tick-over. Then the cross links are fitted , taking care that the 'cupped' adjuster bars attach correctly with no forcing. Recheck idle speed,and balance. Once you are happy with the settings, then the test to do is at tickover to disconnect the solenoid cut off on 1 carb at a time.. if the engine speed drop is about 200 rpm either side.. then you are about there.
I hope this answers you question,
Cordialement,
Great video, really only one that makes sense of this. Reconditioned mine as part of an engine rebuild, so here's hoping it all works! One question, can you recomend where to get spare chokes from as I suspect my L hand one is iffy/intermittant as can't get a stable ohms reading from it?
Hello,
Use NOS when possible..
For example:
www.mecatechnic.com/fr-FR/starter-pour-carburateur-solex-32-34-pdsit-gauche_C146185.
Cordialement,
Awsome information much appreciated.
Dear Sarran, I have strived to set up the carbs as per your video but the left hand carb does not let itself adjusted to the measurements I took from your video i.e 0.856mm at non choke and 0.6mm at choke. When you say in your video 8.56 mm at warm and 0.6 at cold - did you not mean 0.856 ? Thanks
Hello, if I understand your question..then yes.. 0.856..
The important thing is to get the 2 idle butterflies the same.. even if you go a bit 'large' on the gap..
Season's Greetings..
Cordialement,
Excellent video , but I can equalized my carburetors, maybe one of them has a little air leak?
Hello, try this..let the engine run at idle, then spray WD40 (or similar) on the carb bodies, and on the flexibles, if the engine speed drops, then you have an air leak.
Cordialement,
A complete carb rebuild kit video and setup would be amazing
Hi There, i am trying to find an 12V electric starter for a solex 32 PDSIT, however everytime i find something it is either for a 32-34 or 34. Do you know if this starter is common to both the 32 and the 34? thanks in advance
Thanks for the video - its given me the encouragement to try and refurb my 32-34 solex carbs! I have a question about the replacement float valve that came with the kit i recently purchased - the needle in its open position on the replacement valve extends/protrudes by approx 2-3mm less than the one being replaced - will this result in too much fuel filling the chamber due to the shorther needle and can i compensate by adding more washers to the valve - or should i ty to find a different valve? Any help would be really appreciated.
Hello,
Frankly, I would leave the old float valve with its washer in, unless it is obviously leaking (unlikely). The problem is you have to use different thickness washers to get the valve height right, which can itself cause problems.
I will do another twin Solex video this year, as I want to fit them to my single carb 1700 CT engine..
Have you seen this video: ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html
Cordialement,
Thank you for the advice, will do just that. Cheers
Good morning, i'm proceeding at a snails pace and hope it's ok to ask what is, i'm sure such a a basic question! When it comes to using the gunson balancing device and one carburettor, lets say, is slightly higher then the other - which link or screw or setting is actually doing the balance adjustment. Ratwell says "If one reads higher, you turn the spring loaded 10mm nut on the cross bar a little and take another reading on each carb. If the idle is high you want to lower the reading of the higher of the two carbs rather than raise the reading of the lower of the two. If the idle is too low, take the reverse action" - this must be for an earlier van (mid 70'S?) becsuse my criss bar doesn't have this spring loaded nut?
@@charliepaterson6988 Hello,
So what engine and vehicle model are we dealing with here? The Ratwell page is for a 1972 American spec bay.
ratwell.com/technical/DualCarbs.html
The engine type and serial number is on the top of the casing, in front of the turbine. European T2 bays had 2 litres for about four years, longer in the US. The earlier type is CJ, later is CU. Quite a lot of differences in heads and carbs.The heads have round exhaust ports on the CJ, squareish on the CU. The CJ carbs have a vacuum take off on both. Like this:
ua-cam.com/video/4qayyc9Z4E0/v-deo.html
then:
ua-cam.com/video/dsfo5ATgBp0/v-deo.html
However, now that you have the motor running, you should be able to run the engine at tickover with the engine warm and remove or at least disconnect the crossbar :
ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html
Now you can set the airflow of each carb individually. The accelerator butterfly gap(about 0.8 mm) should be set so you get the same airflow. Then you have to recheck that the linkage to the choke cam is properly adjusted. You will know when you have got it right when you can disconnect the electric feed to the carb solenoids one at a time and the engine rpm drops the same each side. When you refit the cross bar make sure the carb linkages are adjusted so they do not force.
Air-Cooled Bliss...😎
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Hi and thanks - the engine is a CU 2 ltr aircooled in a 1980 T25 - with the carbs out of the vehicle i set the fast idle and idle to your settings. I haven't put them back in yet, just renewing fuel line and other rubber pipework. Just to confirm then that when i get to setting the airflow with the accelertor butterfly gap - this is governed by the throttle stop screw?
Hi Sarran1955, HELP!!!! - thanks for a great video very helpful. I'm following the process to tune 1.8cc Type 4 Solex 32PDSIT carbs. Have set bottom butterfly without any choke to 8.65mm and also for fast idle using 0.6mm wire. With the coke plate and connecting spring OFF. When I re-attach everything these gap become considerably reduced! I think that this is due to the spring under the choke plate pulling the linkages tighter. Is this correct or should I re-do under tension with the spring attached. Many thanks... P.S. to double check these settings are the same for 1800cc engine as for 2L. Cheers and amazing videos
Hello,
Do you know what year the carb/motor set up is?
If it is early there will be a vacuum pipe/spigot on both carbs.
The initial butterfly setting can be done with the springs off, but as you say the gap will close.
The set screw is then used to open the gap as required. You will find this useful when the engine is running and you want to set the tickover speed, preferably using a vacuum gauge to see when you get a signal. This short video may be of use.
ua-cam.com/video/dsfo5ATgBp0/v-deo.html
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Hiya, Thanks for the quick reply. Honestly I'm not sure what year the carb/motor set up is though the original engine that the carbs came off was 1975 1.8 AP OHV 8V before I brought a reconditioned block. The main carb has a hose for the vacuum though this has always been "blocked" off as the Dizzy doesn't have vacuum connection. The slave carb has a similar "hole" but this looks (cast) blocked. I have been going through your videos on setting up the timing and syncing the carbs, just noticed that when the the spring and choke cap where fitted this closed the gap. Would you suggest setting it with the spring attached? All gaskets on both carbs were shot hence the strip down and I couldn't get any change in RPM when adjusting idle mixer, idle speed or volume mixture - hence starting with carb refurb first then when locked is removed go back to the van and re do tappets etc put carbs back on and try again. I watched the video in the link very helpful - I have a snail, strobe light but need to get hold of a metre for RPM as the rpm gun is a little touch and go. Thanks so much for these video such a big help. Stay safe in France
@@barnabyoconnor8065 Hello,
Sorry not to have got back to you earlier, I am in Argentina visiting my grandchildren and this far North the Internet drops out from time to time.
OK, so there is no reason not to set up the carbs with all the springs, just use a 0.6 or 0.8 mmwire,(mig or tig welding wire is good) to set up the butterflies in the hot idle position,using the adjuster screw at the base of the carb..be careful the adjustment is fine, needing an electrician's screwdriver, 1/2 a turn either way should do. You can always re-check this once the engine has run and is hot.
I do not much like the use of a centrifugal (009) distributor, you would do better to fit a SVDA dizzy, either points and condensor, or electronic. Make sure you have a compatible coil. Check my videos to see how to fit to a T4 engine.
Hope this helps,
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Cheers for the helpful tips, I'll look at getting a new Dizzy but moved to Europe and its a little tricky getting parts locally. Really appreciate the advise, once this is sorted step two - jets and fuel. Enjoy Argentina, sounds very adventurous :)
@@barnabyoconnor8065 Hello, if you are now in Europe, then I recommend Serial Kombi for parts, they are good on aair-cooleds, and then Simon BBC on e bay for distributors. See separate videos.
Cordialement,
I set the initial idle at 8.65 with calipers but engine ran way to fast. so I have brought the screw on the throttle plate back out as it was half way with the 8.65mm adjustment. Dont know what went wrong I now have popping on rhs 1 and 2 so I guess its check valves then leaks on vacuum side then fuel mix screw. Would a poor gasket between the carb top and body cause this?
Hello..The really important measurement.. is between the venturi wall and the throttle butterfly..0.6 mm.. so you can just see the light through... follow the rest of the procedure.. you should be controlling tickover speed with the 'master air screw on top of the left hand carb.. hope this helps,
Cordialement..
sarran1955 yes thanks to you had no problems van went well. Have to have a look again today as still surging.
Hi I’ve recently followed all your instruction to set up my carbs and replaced all vacuum lines and timing and still can not get my engine to run correctly pops and bangs from the exhaust and threw the carbs some times when revving up if you could there is a video on my channel entitled “very very cold start” if you could possibly take a look at it to see if you might be able to hear something I’m missing I would be very greatful
Hello, I'm looking at you channel now..
Cordialement,
@@sarran1955 Still looking?
@@benmorris1076 Hello, nice to see people are still watching!!
So, it was more of an ignition problem.
Here is a more recent video with the 2L CU carbs running nicely: ua-cam.com/video/rQp-CP6JJwc/v-deo.html
Cordialement,
Thank you for the video.
Im only getting 1,7 Amps on the heater coils - is that totally out of order?
Hello,
There is the cold start enricher, (the long aluminium cover with an electrical tag on the LH carb), which may be pulling a lot of current cold, try disconnecting this and see if there is a difference..
Air-Cooled Bliss
@@sarran1955 The only electrical connectors on left hand carb, are the choke-cover and both cut-off solenoids - right?
I tried to take off the one of the cut-off calve connectors with the same result.
Im measurng between the unplugged connector on the heater cover and the unplugged connector from the battery to the coil.
The are working though =) Now the throttles are in place again. And the chokes are opening as they should.
Thank you for your answer!
Do your have more videos on tuning these carbs?
that was good but what I needed to know was how to set the left hand carbi up with the screws on top ..big n little...u left that one on the car...😥
Hello,
So: 'big screw' is idle speed, 'little screw'is CO.
This more recent video may help: ua-cam.com/video/VtVIGXmJd0U/v-deo.html
Cordialement,
absolutely superb! I'm a fellow aircooled 2.0 cu fan! check my vids, not great quality!
I have had mine on webers (idf's) great fuel economy surprisingly but going back to solex's to run lpg! with a little lubrication oil to keep the cylinder heads happy! never got to grips with solex's! so its new to me! your vids will definitely help!!!! keep them coming! you make what the manual try's to put across a lot easier to understand, what do you think of BROCAL solex copies???
Hello,.. liked the vids. What was your real fuel economy on the Webers?
The brocals are like the '70s solexes, with a vacuum inlet on both carbs..
You will need to make up linkages..
Cordialement,
on a long journey to mayo in ireland & back o the uk I worked it out to be aroud the 26/28 mpg ballpark, I drive at a steady 56-60mph maximum,i stay on the inside with the lorrys & relax, in town/stop start driving it can be 18-20mpg, which I think is good for an old aircooled cu 2.0, I did spend at of time setting up the ignition timing & balancing the carbs! ad to rejet the carbs twice I think I cou et away with a leaner jet if I had better ignition spark/control, which I think I may get ith a product from accuspak called he black box, not too pricey really! as I say I would lie ogt my aircooed on lpg for the cheaper fuel costs but that mean going back to the solex's which to be honest I think if setup right as you have explained, some good results can be had! I think fine tuning what VW used in the 1stplace could give an equal in power & economy to the webers if the time is put in to set everything up nice! I know most vw owners cant be bothered or their mechanics but I'm DIY mechanic, I like to make it go myself :D abit oldschool i suppose, cheers for the reply saran, i'l be watching your vid & hopefully setting my old solex's up nicely at the same time - keep up the good work & interesting vw videos, really enjoying them
smallweights Hello, that is very good MPG, as for your ignition have you watched this..?Powerspark 034 SVDA distributor retrofit to a 2L VW aircooled engine ..
Giving good results so far...
Cordialement,
Je veux cette vidéo en français s'il vos plaît
Salut, peut etre un VF dans un future video sur les carbu's
Cordialement,
I am restoring a 1979 T2 2.0Lt and after having the engine out to repair the frame replace heat converters, crank shaft oil seal and replacing engine it ran fine but is throwing out a lot of fuel through exhaust. The right hand carb is leaking fuel and the top jet is permanently spitting fuel into the carb. Could it be stuck float valve?? any help would be much appreciated.. Nick 07930 366 406
Hello, Well the first thing is to set the carbs up as per the video..you might as well get the gasket and tune up kit as this has new float valves
This is how the engine ran before the carbs were tuned:
ua-cam.com/video/3nqUWst2XRo/v-deo.html
Hope this helps,
I fell asleep