Do you have questions about your Renogy Inverter Charger? Jolly, your 'Renogy Inverter Charger Guru', provides comprehensive guides and resources to assist you with installing, setting up, and using your Renogy charger. Visit: www.vandercampadventures.com/renogy-inverter-charger-installation/ Thank you to everyone for your continued support. Your likes, comments, and subscriptions help the channel and the community. Now, put the kettle on and check out Part 2 here - ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html. The RENOGY Inverter Charger can be purchased here - shrsl.com/3wn5c
Thanks for that I contacted the company that fitted inverter they said they can fit one for £128 don’t think that will be a Renogy as they are about £200 I think to buy or should I fit Renogy as it would pair up with inverter ?
It doesn't need to be Renogy as it will be a completely separate unit. That price is very cheap for a unit and fitting, i would question what unit they are fitting and make sure it meets your needs. Do you need a solar and DCDC charger or do you simply require a unit that trickle charges the starter battery? Regards, Jolly
The “preset” for Lithium batteries is set too high (14.7V). It should be set to 14.4V (in some cases). In order to do that first thing you must do is change Program number 05 to 6-0 and Program number 94 to ALB (for lithium), then in Program 26 you can change the maximum charging voltage. The Renogy MPPT solar charger ( with Lithium preset) is set to 14.4V. Idk why they change it on the inverter. I saw your video a few times and I read the manuals a few times as well. Thanks mate!
Good point, thanks for raising this in the comments 👍. It's always recommended to check the charge voltage of any battery and not rely on the presets. The Renogy 200ah Lith-ion battery charge voltage is 14.4v. Thanks for your support 👍. Regards, Jolly
I bought The same unit This past July (2023) but I'm in Canada so it's the 2000watt - 110Volt version. Thanks for sharing your instructions and install specs. So far mine has worked just like it says it would. Mine also can not turn the sound off for the buttons. I learned from you ,the charge rate , as i didn't consider the loads also being drawn on the cables for my 12v side of things. For the Heat I put a 12v Temperature control board in with a couple computer fans to help exhaust the heat to the outside of the compartment . Thanks for The video.
Thanks for your concern Evan. In my reply to your other comment, I discussed the reason for the inverter charger location and explained our ventilation concerns. This should answer your concerns. Regards, Jolly
Hi, I asked Ollie for some advice on the problem I posted earlier, he got back to me, had a chat over a phone call and made me a drawing to follow, and now my system is running sweet and I can’t thank him enough, your a legend Ollie 🙏🏼👍🏼👌🏻 top man for advice on this setup, cheers now
I live in America and was actually able to turn off the annoying beeping sound between the menus. i have to 2000w version i love it so far. if i have any questions i know who to ask.
Hey Jeremy, Jealous your able to turn off that annoying beep. Did yours work by turning program option 22 off (AOF)? Great to hear you love the unit 👍. Happy to help if you have any questions 🤘. Regards, Jolly
My long time belief is that inverters cannot be mounted vertically with fan up is because mice and debris are likely to fall into the fan area. In the case of this 26kg inverter charger it is best to mount as in this video because if put on a verticle surface the screws supporting the inverter would likely rip out with time. Flat is the only way to go. Plus, it needs to be mounted so the screen is easy to read. I love how tight this install is. Wish I could get that right. I just bought this inverter charger... the weight is insane.
Hey Rob, Thank you for your input. I can assure you the electrical cupboard didn't just happen overnight, it took approximately 4 days of careful planning, head scratching and tea drinking to get it to fit. Having all the components helped because could put everything into place and move them about. Check out PART 2 (ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html) if you need any help or guidance with installing it. Good luck and have fun. Regards, Jolly
Very helpful video. Thanks. On my inaugural trip this weekend, testing out my new solar system. 4 x 100 ah batteries. 3000 watt Renogy Inverter Charger (IC). Solar panels not yet live. Canada. 120 volts. In Rpod Trailer. 1) Hooked everything up at home. The IC successfully charged batteries to 100% with shore power. (Did each battery separately to balance cells) 2) Disconnected shore power. Put a load on each battery to take them down to 20%. 3) Connected shore power again to bring battery up to 100%. Now, I am at my campsite. I am plugged into shore power. Everything on 120 is running great. Fridge (set to shore power) and Electric Heater. The issue is, battery continues to discharge at about 30 watts, which would be the power which the inverter uses. The batteries are now at 87%. 13.34 Volts. So, my question is, shouldn't the charger be keeping the batteries at 100%. Tomorrow, when I disconnect from shore power and move to a location where I boondock, would be a shame if I can only start with batteries at 80%. Or do the batteries have to drop to the factory default of 12.6 volts before charging is activated?
Hi Brian, I assume you are using lithium batteries in your setup and have set the battery type as lithium (program 05)? If that's the case, the charger will start charging your battery when you connect to shore power. It will charge the battery to 100% (14.7v preset) and then stop charging. When the battery voltage drops to 12.4v, charging will resume. To avoid the problem of moving on with not fully charged batteries, we switch off the shore power and then switch it back on again. This way, the charger will top up the batteries to full before we move on. I hope this helps you. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask. Happy boondocking and solar set up Best regards, Jolly
Great stuff 👍. I'm currently working on a full installation and setup guide that will be published on our blog soon. In the mean time, if you need any help or assistance, drop me an e-mail. Regards, Jolly 🤘
Hello, could you do a video explaining the 230v sockets going into the consumer units please? I find your videos so helpful and I am struggling with wiring sockets in a radial circuit. We have a 3000w Renogy inverter, 460ah LiFo4 Smart roamer battery, 2 x 360w solar panels and an Abso 30A DC-DC charger (looking to change this to a 30amp MPPT, as I do not want the batteries charging from the alternator and van battery. Thanks in advance
Hey Rachael, thank you for being a fan! I can help you out, no worries! I have many videos in the pipeline related to 230-volt electrics in a campervan. However, due to my current workload, the videos will be a few months away. Therefore, in the mean time, join my Facebook Group - Campervan Electrics Mastery that will give you direct access to me for help and support. I can discuss your 230v radial circuit dilemma and help with your DC-DC and MPPT. I hope to see you there! I also offer a free 1-1 consultation call for members to discuss how i can help. Regards, Jolly
Think I’ve just about understood all that has been covered here. I could do with a bit more info regarding earth placement. I’ve a 2000 W unit, same as yourself and want to use RCDO in a two way box for input power. Does the earth from site power get bonded to chassis? If so, do I then bond input earth terminal to chassis as well? This is for a ‘full metal’ campervan, not Moho or lorry style non metallic body. Pete
Hey Pete, Thanks for the comment. I discuss the topic of wiring, fuseboards and earthing for the inverter charger in more detail in the upcoming part 2 video. Only one chassis bond is necessary for the AC system. I assume you will have a site power cable entering the fuseboard and the inverter AC input connected from the fuseboard to the inverter? If so, it's important to connect the site power earth, inverter AC input earth, and chassis bond together, typically within the fuseboard. Alternatively, they can be connected into an earth block, as long as there is continuity between the earths. I hope this helps, Regards, Jolly
@@vandercampadventures Yes, the bonding would be as described. It’s good to get this confirmed, much appreciated, Pete. (I may send a msg on Instagram).
I have a 3000w renogy(US) installed in my ambulance conversion. Is there any negative effects to the inverter by using the battery bank as a 12v power source for a 2kw diesel heater and some lights? I see you are using some 12v off of your battery bank.
Hey @@David-su2oo, It's perfectly fine to have the inverter and 12V power supplied from the 12V battery. My recommendation is to connect the inverter directly to the battery, this way, the cable will only carry current for the inverter. Moreover, supply your 12V power directly from the battery to keep them separate. Our battery has two cables connected to the positive-one supplies the inverter and the other supplies a positive busbar that powers our 12V power fuse board. Our 12V power includes a 4KW diesel heater, lights, USB sockets, pump, and fan. Please let me know if you need any further assistance. Best regards, Jolly
Ok I finally finished screenshotting every page of that manual and there is 101 pages of that manual so thank you very much for your direction to the manual I wished you would of said that first up and I got it now on my iPhone 11 and I must inform you again well I got the 3000 Watt version Model : R-INVT- PCL1-301123S in the manual for mine 18 is the beep every time you push the button to turn the enjoying beep off 18 bof is beep off and 22 Aof is the alarm So yeah you have got that one back to front because I tried that with mine and the exact thing happened the beep still stayed on so while I was munkeying around with mine like I said I discovered the bof is that enoying button beep on or off you should try that and you may find once you set that to bof that enoying beep will be no more unless you decide you want that enoying beep on so there it is but in the manual it says beep when battery is low so maybe you got mix up there or back to front with it anyhow now I have deleted all that silly stuff I said and now I want to apologize to you because when I think I’m wrong I will admit that and thank you for your video and directing me to where the manual is Yeah thank you.
Isn’t the fan at the end where you have yours to the outside wall? If it was installed vertically, the outlet/inlet would be covered or am I thinking incorrectly?
Hey, the fan is located on the end with the electrical terminals. It draws air through the unit and out of the white cover where the electrical connections are. If it was mounted vertically and sat on a surface then yes, the fan vent would be covered. However, manual V1.1 states 'the inverter should never be mounted vertically' as it effects the fan and cooling. Regards, Jolly
The risk with mounting the inverter vertically is that some dunce is going to put his coffee cup on the vent opening... The installation shown in the video looks like it's in way too tight a space for ventilation. The manual specifically states: "Cool, dry, well-ventilated area - Heat is the worst enemy for electronic equipment. Inverters must be in an area where the fans are not blocked or where they are not hit directly by the sun. They should be in an area free of any kind of moisture and *_allow for clearance of at least 10” around the unit to provide for adequate ventilation."_* There doesn't seem to be more than an inch of clearance on the input end. Bad idea. His 600mm x 300mm space recommendations are WAY TOO TIGHT, per the manufacturer.
Hey Evan, Thank you for sharing your concern. As someone who has worked with electrical components for 17 years, I completely understand the devastation that heat can cause. However, it is important to note that the manual guidelines for the location and ventilation of the inverter charger are just recommendations. While designing our layout, I was worried about ensuring adequate ventilation for the inverter charger. However, to follow the recommended ventilation guidelines, we would have required a space of 1000mm x 700mm, which we do not have. Therefore, I contacted Renogy support to express my concerns and discuss our proposed airflow and vents plan. Renogy confirmed that their stated ventilation guidelines are recommendations only. The most important thing is to ensure the vents aren't blocked and the air can move and circulate through the inverter charger, which should not be in a sealed box. Our unit is not in a sealed box; it's in a space allowing sufficient airflow. We have installed 2x 75mm drop-out vents in the floor, one on either side of the inverter charger. Additionally, we have created 3x 50mm vent holes in the seat base to ensure the air can circulate underneath the bench seat and electric compartment. Given my concerns, I have closely monitored the unit's temperature when the charger is charging at full power (65A), and the inverter is powering a high load. I can assure you that the unit does get warm, but not enough to cause any concern, even during a 2-week heatwave of 40 deg C. Regards, Jolly
Hey, good question! The chassis ground wire does not require a fuse. Fuses are only required on the positive cables that carry the current. Regards, Jolly
Just to clarify as I am going to be installing the 3000w version, I run positive (+) from the inverter/charger via isolation switch too fuse, onto leisure battery positive (+). I then run positive (+) cable from the leisure battery via isolation switch to fuse and onto positive (+) busbar (in my install is will be the victron lynx distributor 1000A busbar unit?
Hey Lincolndave, You've got it 👍. That's how we have ours set up. Just be sure to mount the fuses as close to the battery as you can. You can run the inverter positive to the busbar but this would mean running a hefty size cable from the busbar to the battery. It's whatever best suits you 🤘. Regards, Jolly
I’m wiring up my Renogy 3000w Inverter/Charger but how does it power/convert power to the 12v/DC side? There’s no wiring to the DC side that I can find. Please help
Sorry another question, you mention about cable size if incoming and outgoing AC cable, is there anyreason why one cant use a 2.5mm2 cable which is rated at 25A, main incoming on a campsite would only be at 16A and the outgoing at 2000W/230v would be 9A, it could surge at 6000w for a second butnthere is an internal 20A on the unit internal protection
Confused as to why the input AC would need to carry the 5 to 65A, surely that charge current from the inverter is a nominal 12v from charger to battery, or am I not reading this correct, thanks again
Hey Andy, i've deleted my last comment because it was misleading, sorry about that, i'll try again. A 2.5mm flex cable rated at 25 amps is sufficient to power the charger. The charger can supply 5 to 65 amps of charge current to the battery at 12 volts, this converts to 60 to 780 watts. Therefore, the AC input cable must be rated to carry at least 3.4 amps (780 watts / 230 volts = 3.4 amps). However, when using the charger in utility priority mode, consider the load of 230V appliances in cable calculations. This mode powers the loads and charges the battery. In part 2, I will perform tests to verify this. The manual's recommendation of 6-16mm cables for AC input/output is misleading, as the cable size should depend on the user. Generally, mains hook up supplies only require a 2.5mm cable, rated up to 16 amps. Regards, Jolly
Hi hope you get this as a notification. I set my renogy 2000 up and 200ah renogy battery up as you have . But I have fault code 89 out of frequency And I cannot charge for my shore power the manual just says out of frequency. Any ideas to point me in the right direction. Cheers Tom
Hi Tom, 'out of frequency' would suggest that the grid frequency of your shore power is not in the range that the inverter can handle, which is between 40-70Hz. When you connect to shore power, does the LCD display show the input frequency figure? You can use the up and down arrows to cycle through the menu to find the 'Input AC Hz' display. Can you also check the input AC voltage when you're connected to shore power? Either by mutimeter reading or from the LCD display (Labelled as 'Input AC V'). It's also a good idea to check your wiring to ensure that everything is connected correctly. Sometimes, electronics can malfunction and display misleading errors if the wiring is incorrect. Please let me know if i can assist further. Regards, Jolly
Great video lots of information. When on DC supply thought the inverter do you know what back feed protection is available to prevent backfeed to the dust board, drip out contactor possibly?
Hey Andy, i'm sorry i don't know. For technical information like this i would advise you contact Renogy support. They've never failed to help me out. Regards, Jolly
Hello! I am in the US so our voltage here is 120. I think my Inv/Chg pulls 30 amps, and when I was working on my build I had it plugged into my regular (old) house outlet which I assumed only provided 15-20 amps. But every time we plug it anywhere else, it flips the (campground/friend's house, etc.) breaker. I got a 30 amp adapter and it works just fine with it, so that is why I am assuming mine pulls 30 amps. Per your video, if I go to setting 11 and change the voltage coming in (pull - charge), it should allow me to plug it into a regular outlet providing 15-20 amps without flipping the breaker? Or if I prioritize the batteries, would that do the trick? We are going to visit friends and it would be great to have power. Thank you so much for this amazing video!
Hey Raquel, By default, the current for the 2000w model is 65 amps, while the 3000w model is 75 amps. The charge current for the battery is 12 volts, which means that the current required at 120 volts will be 6.5 amps for the 2000w model and 7.5 amps for the 3000w model. Therefore, overloading on a circuit breaker shouldn't be an issue. However, the problem could be the connection between the 15 amp socket and the inverter (e.g. a shore power extension lead). It's worth noting that campgrounds and electrically up-to-date houses will have an RCD in their consumer unit that will pick up on even the slightest issue and trip out the circuit. So, it's important to check the 15 amp socket connections, where it plugs into the campervan and inverter. If you need further assistance, please feel free to send me an email at jolly@vandercampadventures.com. I'll be able to go more in depth to diagnose the issue for you. Regards, Jolly
Just had my 3000w Renogy inverter/charger fitter by a company and notice they have not fitted isolator switch been told just switch inverter off on unit is this correct and when on ehu do I have to leave inverter on as this won’t charge batteries ? Many thanks kevin
Hey Kevin, It's not essential to have an isolator switch on the battery cables. The isolator is there for maintenance purposes, you can remove the fuse but it's more faff. Yes, when on EHU the inverter needs to be on to charge the batteries 👍. Regards, Jolly
@@vandercampadventures is there a way to trickle charge your vehicle battery while stationary for long periods of time when leisure batteries are full either from solar or other ways cheers kevin
Hey Kevin, I hope you're well. There is indeed. Renogy's DCC30 & DCC50 and the CTEK D250SE DC-DC solar chargers have a function that trickle charges the starter battery when the leisure battery is full. This article has more detail for you - vandercampadventures.com/dc-to-dc-charger-with-mppt-solar/#The_4_Best_DC_to_DC_Charger_With_MPPT_Solar I hope this is helpful. Please shout me if you need any more help. Regards, Jolly
Hi hope you are well just wandering I’ve had all the above fitted my vehicle battery seems to be draining every thing turned off not happened before the upgrade have they disconnect something from sergeant that’s making it do this any ideas what could be doing this ? Thinking of fitting Renogy dcdcmppt and bt2 so solar can charge both cheers for your advice kevin
Hi! I really have to ask about what do you do at the 39:07 mark? So right now I have same setup as you and I get AC power icon showing 220v and the round shorepower icon, it blinks the AC/INV green. But when I plug in a 230v to outlet from the inverter the lights work, BUT the inverter stays in blinking AC/INV and never goes to the same mode as you are having after the 39:07. I have followed the exact same settings as you in and it is in Utility mode. Only difference I can see is that for some reason my AC input is 220 and not 230.
Hi there! Thank you for leaving a comment. What country are you from and what do you mean by 'the inverter lights work'? If the voltage at the shore power is typically higher, say 230v, then the 220v could be due to voltage drop. To determine this, I suggest you test the shore power voltage to see what it is. When the AC/INV light blinks, it indicates that the inverter charger is in inverter mode, which is from the battery 12v to 230v. The shore power icon will appear when the inverter charger receives the mains shore power voltage. After approximately 8 seconds, the inverter charger will go into bypass mode once it is satisfied that the voltage is stable. 220v shouldn't be an issue because the input voltage range is between 155-275v (230v model). However, check the voltage and polarity of the shore power at the campervan. Also, ensure that your input and output connections at the inverter charger are correct. I hope this information is helpful. Please let me know if I can help further. Regards, Jolly
Thanks heaps for posting this. For the popularity of these units there is surprisingly little information around on the how/why of installing them safely. Looking forward to the next episode. I have the 3000w version which I want to put in a shed as a UPS to power some computers and a fridge. Would this then still need it's own circuit breaker? Would a seperate earth rod be needed here on the input side? Does the floating earth restrict the sort of appliances that can safely be used? I've tried asking a few electricians about what I want done and either my explanation is terrible or the job sounds too fiddly/complex ad I've never heard back from them. Really appreciate what you're doing here as I think it should help me paint a clearer picture.
Hey Dominic, Thank you for your support and kind words. I'm glad to be of help. Regarding your questions: 1) It is necessary to have a circuit breaker to protect the cable of an electrical circuit. Hence, the supply cable and output cables connected to your computer and fridge must be protected via a circuit breaker. 2) The AC connection input must have an earth. An earth rod is adequate and might be necessary due to regulations since your installation is in a shed. Nevertheless, this requires further information about the electrical installation of your property. Also, earth rods require testing with electrical test equipment. 3) Appliances will not be affected by a floating neutral earth. They require mains voltage (around 230v) to function, and as long as they get this via the live conductors (L&N), the appliance will work correctly. If there is a fault, the internal fuses should blow, and since there is no direct contact with the earth, there is no fault path through you. Hence no shock. However, I always recommend using class 2 (double-insulated) appliances, where possible, as a safety measure. As an electrician, I understand that the term 'electrician' is quite broad. It is not possible for one person to know everything about all the sectors in the field. Electricians have their specialized sectors; this may not be their sector. For instance, dealing with UPS, inverters, and 12-volt systems requires more specific knowledge and experience. Therefore, it is recommended to seek guidance from a qualified engineer with expertise in these areas, like myself. Hopefully, this answers your questions and I haven't gone too deep into electrical geek language. Let me know if I can assist further. Regards, Jolly
@@vandercampadventures thanks so much for the detailed reply, helped so much 👍. So Q1&2 seem to merge a bit for me now. If my shed power is coming via an extension cord from my house whose circuits already have breakers, would that constitute being suitably earthed? Or do I need a dedicated breaker at the input of the inverter/charger going to its own earth rod? 3) My computers will be class 2, so should be fine. I'll have to take a closer look at my fridge as it'll likely be class 1. Thanks again!
Hey Dominic, no worries 👍. If the extension cable has an earth, is suitably sized, and is supplied by a circuit breaker, it should be adequate. However, to determine whether an earth rod is necessary, electrical tests must be performed at the supply cable (inverter end). These test results will determine whether the earthing is sufficient. Again, electrical tests must be performed to ensure proper grounding if an earth rod is used. I hope this info is useful, Dominic. Kind regards, Jolly 🤟
Hi Thanks for the video, great help. You said there was no RCD on the output side of the inverter but you didn't say how you make this side safe? I'm asking because I'm in Australia and we have to have the 240V side installed by a qualified Electrician and the guy that works on caravan electricals exclusively refused to install it as he felt they were unsafe, he said something about an MEN not sure weather it was because it had one or didn't have one?? I contacted Renogy for their comments and they said they would email me in 24 to 48 hours which was 8 days ago. Can you enlighten me please? Cheers Nick
Hello Nick, I hope you're doing well. An RCD on the outgoing side (230v) of the inverter won't function as intended. The RCD requires a neutral-earth system, known as the MEN (multiple earthe neutral) in Australia, typically found in a house. However, this inverter is centre-tapped, so it has no reference to Earth. Meaning there are two live conductors (115v-115v) rather than a live and neutral (230v-0v). As a result, it is possible to touch one of the outgoing live wires without receiving a shock because there is no fault path. However, if you touch both outgoing live wires, you will receive a shock because you will be part of the circuit. For safety, it is crucial to use double pole (DP) socket outlets on centre-tapped inverters. Single pole (SP) outlets switch only the live conductor, but DP outlets switch both line conductors (live and live). If a SP socket is used on a center-tapped system, the appliance connected to it will remain live even when the socket is off. Most campervan inverters are set up this way, but some have the option to change the output to bonded (N-E) instead of centre-tapped, allowing an RCD to be used. I understand your concerns regarding the safety of the campervan inverter system. I am currently discussing this issue with other electricians and engineers to determine why campervan inverters are centre-tapped, and we have identified a few reasons. In addition, I am conducting tests on the inverter charger to determine if it is possible to have an RCD on the outgoing side. I have a few videos and blog posts in the works, so stay tuned for more information. In the meantime, I'll do my best to answer any other questions you have. Regards, Jolly
Hey Nick, the Renogy Inverter Charger install video PART 2 has been published today which goes into detail about fuseboards and RCD protection. Check it out here - ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html. Sorry for the delay. Regards, Jolly
Thanks for the reply, are you saying that the outlets in the caravan will be dual pole or are you saying I will have to change all the power points? Cheers Nick
Hey Nick, I'm not familiar with Australian sockets, but I can offer advice based on UK sockets. To determine if the sockets supplied from the inverter are single-pole or double-pole, it's best to use a socket tester. First, plug in the tester and switch the socket off. If the tester turns off, then the socket is double pole. On the other hand, if it doesn't turn off, it will show a fault, indicating that it's single pole. Hope this helps, Regards, Jolly
I understand following the data sheet but dont you find they are always massively over spec’d? Surely the hookup cable you plug in on site will not be 6mm? More likely to be 2.5mm?
The 2000w model can be supplied with a 2.5mm cable. However, it does depend on the cable length due to voltage drop. That's why we recommend doing your own cable calculations to find out what cable you need. We used 6mm from the consumer unit to the inverter because we had some spare.
Will it charge the battery when in battery priority mode when AC is connected before it hits the low voltage setting? Or does it just not charge the battery ever when in battery priority mode?
Hey Joseph, The inverter charger does not charge the battery in 'battery priority' mode. The AC source will supply power to the loads only when the battery reaches the 'low battery voltage setpoint'. If there is no AC source (hook-up) available when the battery reaches the 'low battery voltage setpoint', the inverter charger will shut off all loads to protect the battery from over-discharge. I hope this helps, Regards, Jolly
How many amps are you pulling in with your Rover & how long are you pulling? I have the same Rover, when I'm getting 26 ah the unit gets so hot the wires starts to smell. I believe i have the biggest wore i can get to fit, which is 4 gauge. I used 1/0 gauge to connect the inverter, had to make the ends. I have a steam shower in my van so i have a huge power draw.
Hello there, my apologies for the delayed response. If the cables are the correct size, the most common reason for them getting hot at an inverter is the crimp connections. If these connections are not done correctly, some copper strands may be loose, causing a bad connection, which under load will generate heat. In order to diagnose the issue, I will need some more information from you. Could you please answer the following questions: - What is the wattage or amperage of the steam shower? - Where exactly are you getting the 26 amps? Regards, Jolly
@vandercampadventures I have installed two fans behind the Rover that have solved the problem. When I have the steamer on, it draws 102 ah. I have 680 ah lithium power bank, 700 watts on the roof & 400 watt solar blanket, 50 amp dc to dc 2k inverter, Rover 60 amp all Renogy but the shunt. It's been about a week, I was getting 49ah for a few hours, and the charge controller was cool to the touch. Just needed more ventilation.. Thanks for getting back to me.
Hey @elevatingroofscampervan3282, PART 2 of the install video has been published today which details the fuseboards and RCD protection. Check it out here ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html. Sorry for the delay. Regards, Jolly
Hi, So having watched your video… very useful. My question is it okay taking the live to the battery, fused and with an isolator as you have it with the negative from the inverter to the buzz bar?
Hey Ryan, Thanks for your comment, good question. Yes, the negative can go to the busbar. However, you must ensure the battery to busbar cable is adequately sized. Regards, Jolly
Hi there can you please help me with this I've checked live to neutral I've got 230 volts but if I check live to earth I've only got 75 volts I haven't connected the earthbound yet surly I should get 230 volts on the live to earth thanks mark
Hi Mark, is this on the AC input or AC output? I would suggest watching the Part 2 video. That video goes into detail about wiring and testing the inverter charger. Regards, Jolly
@@vandercampadventures hi there it in DC output from the inverter when you plug into shore power it's fine wondering if you guys can check you one to see what voltage your getting live to earth mines only just under 80 volts but when I plug my inverter into shore power it's fine I get 230 volts
@markwhitney8458 the reason for the difference in voltage is because the inverter is centre-tapped. I explain it all in detail in Part 2 of the installation video. Heres the link - ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.htmlsi=ivcK99Y7neQtCDJx
Thanks I watched the video a few times I forgot recall center taped but to be honest most of it went over my head that's put my mind as rest hanks for your help👍
Hi, I’ve got the same unit as you and would like some advice please 🙏🏻 in inverts mode I have input and out put on my led screen… input 231v,,,, output 229v but I’m not hooked up to my shore power? Also on inverter not hookup I’ve got the red light showing on my consumer unit to say wrong polarity ? Any advice is appreciated
Hi Paul, I'd be happy to help you out. However, to diagnose the issue, could you please send me an email to jolly@vandercampadventures.com with photos of your consumer unit wiring, the red light, and inverter charger wiring connections? Regards, Jolly
Hey there. First thing to check is the cable connections into the inverter. Double check the hook up/shore power supply cable is in the AC input and the AC output cable goes to your 'sockets' (loads). If this doesn't resolve the issue, send me an e-mail (jolly@vandercampadventures.com) with as much info as possible and pictures and I'll do my best to help you out 👍. Regards, Jolly
I have one challenge with my 2000 watt Renogy I/C on my boat. The preset for lithium prevents charging if the battery is above 12.5 volts. The problem with this is that my battery could be at 20% charge when I leave the dock, so instead of having 300 ampere hours at my disposal, I only have 60 ah. Does anyone know if there is a way to force the Renogy unit into charge mode in this instance?
The way I overcome this is by switching the inverter charger off and on again. This will trigger the charger to charge the battery. Calculate how long it will take to charge to 100% to ensure you have full juice before you leave the dock.
@@vandercampadventures I have tried from the remote, but it only goes into charging mode for one minute and then returns to inverter mode, but I will experiment with this a bit to see if I can force it into charging mode.
It depends more on what your using it for rather than its location. I should be fine as long as it's being used to the manufacturers recommendations 👍. I'm interested what you'll be using it in for house?
Hello, I've been using a Krieger 1100 for the past 12 months in a caravan we are living in temporary on a site out in the sticks, when we didn't have the generator running for internet, telly and that, which was running off my old lead 120amp battery which we since replaced with a 200amp lithium battary, so I decided to buy 3 X 450w 12amp solar panels, and a Renogy rover panel controller like yours, but only used one panel, and it worked very well, we only use the generator now for vacuum and washing machine, my partner don't like living in the caravan, so I'm thinking of getting a perfab house for her, and putting all three panels on roof of that unit, connect them to the rover unit, then to 2 X 200amp battaries to inverter like what you have but 3000w, that way we only have to use generator if any section of solar system breaks down, of course you can't use power in this system like a conventional house, you have to watch the limitations of the inverter, I'm about to order an inverter same as yours, bar it being 3000w, and my Krieger has just packed in, ( which I going to use for emergency back up)what I'm wondering, should I buy cheaper inverters or that, and if they are going to pack in once a year or that, replace it with another cheap one or will buying a more expensive one worth while, or in your opinion should I be going to 24/48v which I don't want to do because it's handy to have a 12v system and purchase 12v/240v appliances for more options if inverter fails, thanks for your time, sorry about the essay
I am trying this: battery is priority, if voltage drops to 12v then switch to utility, if battery charged to 13v (solar) then go back to battery, just cant get this working, any suggestions? tnx
Hi there, Interesting setup and the idea behind it is great. There doesn't seem to be a setpoint for switching the power back to battery priority. There may be a built-in setpoint that is not mentioned. Have you tested the setup to see what happens when the voltage rises after the battery priority switches to utility power? I recommend contacting Renogy support and providing them with as much information as possible. They'll be able to assist you better. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Regards, Jolly
@@vandercampadventures Hi, I asked same question on amazon ... there is a setpoint 12: " Low battery voltage point when the power source switches from battery to utility But there is NO auto switch back to battery if is13v ( solar)?" Barry answered: "I sent mine back for a refund. Could not get it to work." Renogy support made me 1 month of rounds with mismatched answers, looks like they finally accepting that there is a bug, promised to resolve issue..
Hi there, I've spoken with Renogy support about your issue and they've replied with 'While the current functionality of the inverter requires a restart to switch back to battery power, our team is actively working on improvements to enhance user convenience.' A restart involves powering down the inverter charger by isolating it from all AC and DC power sources. Not very convenient for your needs. They're happy to facilitate a return for a refund if the current setup is less than satisfactory. Regards, Jolly
Hey Mrt 👍, Theoretically you wouldn't get a shock if you touch either live because there is no neutral to Earth bond. However, you would get a shock if you touched both lives. Holding one in each hand would mean your part of the circuit, so would know about it. Therefore, it's crucial that all socket outlets are double pole (they isolate the 'live' and 'neutral') and the electrical installation is installed to current regulations. That way your safe and sound. Regards, Jolly
Renogy support confirmed that these newer PCL inverter chargers don't have an automatic N-E bond switch like the older versions, rendering the manual (V1.1) outdated.
The one I have came with the v1.1 manual, how would I know which inverter charger I have, is there a way to determine if it has the NE bond or not by inspection?
Don’t worry about the manual for that unit since you don’t want to tell me where to find the so called link for it I’ll just go to the library and pay them to download and copy them on A4 paper so keep it I don’t care don’t think you have a link for the manual because I can’t find it
Do you have questions about your Renogy Inverter Charger? Jolly, your 'Renogy Inverter Charger Guru', provides comprehensive guides and resources to assist you with installing, setting up, and using your Renogy charger. Visit: www.vandercampadventures.com/renogy-inverter-charger-installation/
Thank you to everyone for your continued support. Your likes, comments, and subscriptions help the channel and the community.
Now, put the kettle on and check out Part 2 here - ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html.
The RENOGY Inverter Charger can be purchased here - shrsl.com/3wn5c
Thanks for that I contacted the company that fitted inverter they said they can fit one for £128 don’t think that will be a Renogy as they are about £200 I think to buy or should I fit Renogy as it would pair up with inverter ?
It doesn't need to be Renogy as it will be a completely separate unit. That price is very cheap for a unit and fitting, i would question what unit they are fitting and make sure it meets your needs.
Do you need a solar and DCDC charger or do you simply require a unit that trickle charges the starter battery?
Regards,
Jolly
The “preset” for Lithium batteries is set too high (14.7V).
It should be set to 14.4V (in some cases). In order to do that first thing you must do is change Program number 05 to 6-0 and Program number 94 to ALB (for lithium), then in Program 26 you can change the maximum charging voltage.
The Renogy MPPT solar charger ( with Lithium preset) is set to 14.4V. Idk why they change it on the inverter.
I saw your video a few times and I read the manuals a few times as well. Thanks mate!
Good point, thanks for raising this in the comments 👍. It's always recommended to check the charge voltage of any battery and not rely on the presets. The Renogy 200ah Lith-ion battery charge voltage is 14.4v.
Thanks for your support 👍.
Regards,
Jolly
I bought The same unit This past July (2023) but I'm in Canada so it's the 2000watt - 110Volt version. Thanks for sharing your instructions and install specs. So far mine has worked just like it says it would. Mine also can not turn the sound off for the buttons. I learned from you ,the charge rate , as i didn't consider the loads also being drawn on the cables for my 12v side of things. For the Heat I put a 12v Temperature control board in with a couple computer fans to help exhaust the heat to the outside of the compartment . Thanks for The video.
Hey Jay,
Glad the video was helpful. Great idea for extra ventilation 👍.
Regards,
Jolly
Go carefully. Your manual talks about spacing for ventilation very differently than what you see in the video.
Thanks for your concern Evan. In my reply to your other comment, I discussed the reason for the inverter charger location and explained our ventilation concerns. This should answer your concerns.
Regards,
Jolly
Hi, I asked Ollie for some advice on the problem I posted earlier, he got back to me, had a chat over a phone call and made me a drawing to follow, and now my system is running sweet and I can’t thank him enough, your a legend Ollie 🙏🏼👍🏼👌🏻 top man for advice on this setup, cheers now
Thank you so much Paul 👍. Glad we got it sorted
I live in America and was actually able to turn off the annoying beeping sound between the menus. i have to 2000w version i love it so far. if i have any questions i know who to ask.
Hey Jeremy,
Jealous your able to turn off that annoying beep. Did yours work by turning program option 22 off (AOF)? Great to hear you love the unit 👍. Happy to help if you have any questions 🤘.
Regards,
Jolly
Brilliant video. Thanks for taking the time and going through the settings. Cheers mate.
Thank you 👍, glad it's helpful.
My long time belief is that inverters cannot be mounted vertically with fan up is because mice and debris are likely to fall into the fan area. In the case of this 26kg inverter charger it is best to mount as in this video because if put on a verticle surface the screws supporting the inverter would likely rip out with time. Flat is the only way to go. Plus, it needs to be mounted so the screen is easy to read.
I love how tight this install is. Wish I could get that right. I just bought this inverter charger... the weight is insane.
Hey Rob,
Thank you for your input. I can assure you the electrical cupboard didn't just happen overnight, it took approximately 4 days of careful planning, head scratching and tea drinking to get it to fit. Having all the components helped because could put everything into place and move them about.
Check out PART 2 (ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html) if you need any help or guidance with installing it. Good luck and have fun.
Regards,
Jolly
Very helpful video. Thanks.
On my inaugural trip this weekend, testing out my new solar system. 4 x 100 ah batteries. 3000 watt Renogy Inverter Charger (IC). Solar panels not yet live. Canada. 120 volts. In Rpod Trailer.
1) Hooked everything up at home. The IC successfully charged batteries to 100% with shore power. (Did each battery separately to balance cells) 2) Disconnected shore power. Put a load on each battery to take them down to 20%. 3) Connected shore power again to bring battery up to 100%.
Now, I am at my campsite. I am plugged into shore power. Everything on 120 is running great. Fridge (set to shore power) and Electric Heater. The issue is, battery continues to discharge at about 30 watts, which would be the power which the inverter uses. The batteries are now at 87%. 13.34 Volts.
So, my question is, shouldn't the charger be keeping the batteries at 100%. Tomorrow, when I disconnect from shore power and move to a location where I boondock, would be a shame if I can only start with batteries at 80%. Or do the batteries have to drop to the factory default of 12.6 volts before charging is activated?
Hi Brian,
I assume you are using lithium batteries in your setup and have set the battery type as lithium (program 05)? If that's the case, the charger will start charging your battery when you connect to shore power. It will charge the battery to 100% (14.7v preset) and then stop charging. When the battery voltage drops to 12.4v, charging will resume.
To avoid the problem of moving on with not fully charged batteries, we switch off the shore power and then switch it back on again. This way, the charger will top up the batteries to full before we move on.
I hope this helps you. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.
Happy boondocking and solar set up
Best regards,
Jolly
Just bought this kit so video was timed to perfection! Thank you.
Great stuff 👍. I'm currently working on a full installation and setup guide that will be published on our blog soon.
In the mean time, if you need any help or assistance, drop me an e-mail.
Regards,
Jolly 🤘
Put a couple of computer fans in the set up which won't take and power to run or connect them to a small solar panel just to run the small fans.
Great video Ollie. Much appreciated.
Thank you David 👍
Hello, could you do a video explaining the 230v sockets going into the consumer units please? I find your videos so helpful and I am struggling with wiring sockets in a radial circuit.
We have a 3000w Renogy inverter, 460ah LiFo4 Smart roamer battery, 2 x 360w solar panels and an Abso 30A DC-DC charger (looking to change this to a 30amp MPPT, as I do not want the batteries charging from the alternator and van battery.
Thanks in advance
Hey Rachael, thank you for being a fan! I can help you out, no worries!
I have many videos in the pipeline related to 230-volt electrics in a campervan. However, due to my current workload, the videos will be a few months away.
Therefore, in the mean time, join my Facebook Group - Campervan Electrics Mastery that will give you direct access to me for help and support. I can discuss your 230v radial circuit dilemma and help with your DC-DC and MPPT. I hope to see you there!
I also offer a free 1-1 consultation call for members to discuss how i can help.
Regards,
Jolly
I found you video very informative
Thanks! 🙏
Think I’ve just about understood all that has been covered here. I could do with a bit more info regarding earth placement. I’ve a 2000 W unit, same as yourself and want to use RCDO in a two way box for input power. Does the earth from site power get bonded to chassis? If so, do I then bond input earth terminal to chassis as well? This is for a ‘full metal’ campervan, not Moho or lorry style non metallic body. Pete
Hey Pete,
Thanks for the comment. I discuss the topic of wiring, fuseboards and earthing for the inverter charger in more detail in the upcoming part 2 video.
Only one chassis bond is necessary for the AC system.
I assume you will have a site power cable entering the fuseboard and the inverter AC input connected from the fuseboard to the inverter?
If so, it's important to connect the site power earth, inverter AC input earth, and chassis bond together, typically within the fuseboard. Alternatively, they can be connected into an earth block, as long as there is continuity between the earths.
I hope this helps,
Regards,
Jolly
@@vandercampadventures Yes, the bonding would be as described. It’s good to get this confirmed, much appreciated, Pete. (I may send a msg on Instagram).
No problem. Happy to help with any electrical queries 👍
I have a 3000w renogy(US) installed in my ambulance conversion. Is there any negative effects to the inverter by using the battery bank as a 12v power source for a 2kw diesel heater and some lights? I see you are using some 12v off of your battery bank.
Hey @@David-su2oo,
It's perfectly fine to have the inverter and 12V power supplied from the 12V battery. My recommendation is to connect the inverter directly to the battery, this way, the cable will only carry current for the inverter. Moreover, supply your 12V power directly from the battery to keep them separate.
Our battery has two cables connected to the positive-one supplies the inverter and the other supplies a positive busbar that powers our 12V power fuse board. Our 12V power includes a 4KW diesel heater, lights, USB sockets, pump, and fan.
Please let me know if you need any further assistance.
Best regards,
Jolly
Ok I finally finished screenshotting every page of that manual and there is 101 pages of that manual so thank you very much for your direction to the manual I wished you would of said that first up and I got it now on my iPhone 11 and I must inform you again well I got the 3000 Watt version Model : R-INVT- PCL1-301123S in the manual for mine 18 is the beep every time you push the button to turn the enjoying beep off 18 bof is beep off and 22 Aof is the alarm So yeah you have got that one back to front because I tried that with mine and the exact thing happened the beep still stayed on so while I was munkeying around with mine like I said I discovered the bof is that enoying button beep on or off you should try that and you may find once you set that to bof that enoying beep will be no more unless you decide you want that enoying beep on so there it is but in the manual it says beep when battery is low so maybe you got mix up there or back to front with it anyhow now I have deleted all that silly stuff I said and now I want to apologize to you because when I think I’m wrong I will admit that and thank you for your video and directing me to where the manual is Yeah thank you.
Isn’t the fan at the end where you have yours to the outside wall? If it was installed vertically, the outlet/inlet would be covered or am I thinking incorrectly?
Hey, the fan is located on the end with the electrical terminals. It draws air through the unit and out of the white cover where the electrical connections are.
If it was mounted vertically and sat on a surface then yes, the fan vent would be covered. However, manual V1.1 states 'the inverter should never be mounted vertically' as it effects the fan and cooling.
Regards,
Jolly
The risk with mounting the inverter vertically is that some dunce is going to put his coffee cup on the vent opening... The installation shown in the video looks like it's in way too tight a space for ventilation. The manual specifically states:
"Cool, dry, well-ventilated area - Heat is the worst enemy for electronic equipment.
Inverters must be in an area where the fans are not blocked or where they are not hit
directly by the sun. They should be in an area free of any kind of moisture and *_allow for
clearance of at least 10” around the unit to provide for adequate ventilation."_*
There doesn't seem to be more than an inch of clearance on the input end. Bad idea. His 600mm x 300mm space recommendations are WAY TOO TIGHT, per the manufacturer.
Hey Evan,
Thank you for sharing your concern. As someone who has worked with electrical components for 17 years, I completely understand the devastation that heat can cause. However, it is important to note that the manual guidelines for the location and ventilation of the inverter charger are just recommendations.
While designing our layout, I was worried about ensuring adequate ventilation for the inverter charger. However, to follow the recommended ventilation guidelines, we would have required a space of 1000mm x 700mm, which we do not have. Therefore, I contacted Renogy support to express my concerns and discuss our proposed airflow and vents plan. Renogy confirmed that their stated ventilation guidelines are recommendations only. The most important thing is to ensure the vents aren't blocked and the air can move and circulate through the inverter charger, which should not be in a sealed box.
Our unit is not in a sealed box; it's in a space allowing sufficient airflow. We have installed 2x 75mm drop-out vents in the floor, one on either side of the inverter charger. Additionally, we have created 3x 50mm vent holes in the seat base to ensure the air can circulate underneath the bench seat and electric compartment.
Given my concerns, I have closely monitored the unit's temperature when the charger is charging at full power (65A), and the inverter is powering a high load. I can assure you that the unit does get warm, but not enough to cause any concern, even during a 2-week heatwave of 40 deg C.
Regards,
Jolly
If you connect the ground directly to the chassis, do you need to have a fuse between the ground wire and the chassis?
Hey, good question! The chassis ground wire does not require a fuse. Fuses are only required on the positive cables that carry the current.
Regards,
Jolly
Just to clarify as I am going to be installing the 3000w version, I run positive (+) from the inverter/charger via isolation switch too fuse, onto leisure battery positive (+). I then run positive (+) cable from the leisure battery via isolation switch to fuse and onto positive (+) busbar (in my install is will be the victron lynx distributor 1000A busbar unit?
Hey Lincolndave,
You've got it 👍. That's how we have ours set up. Just be sure to mount the fuses as close to the battery as you can.
You can run the inverter positive to the busbar but this would mean running a hefty size cable from the busbar to the battery. It's whatever best suits you 🤘.
Regards,
Jolly
@@vandercampadventures cheers for that info, much appreciated 👍
Great video. Thanks
Thank you!
I’m wiring up my Renogy 3000w Inverter/Charger but how does it power/convert power to the 12v/DC side? There’s no wiring to the DC side that I can find. Please help
Thanks for the comment Marc. I will update your question after our e-mail conversion.
Sorry another question, you mention about cable size if incoming and outgoing AC cable, is there anyreason why one cant use a 2.5mm2 cable which is rated at 25A, main incoming on a campsite would only be at 16A and the outgoing at 2000W/230v would be 9A, it could surge at 6000w for a second butnthere is an internal 20A on the unit internal protection
Confused as to why the input AC would need to carry the 5 to 65A, surely that charge current from the inverter is a nominal 12v from charger to battery, or am I not reading this correct, thanks again
Hey Andy, i've deleted my last comment because it was misleading, sorry about that, i'll try again.
A 2.5mm flex cable rated at 25 amps is sufficient to power the charger. The charger can supply 5 to 65 amps of charge current to the battery at 12 volts, this converts to 60 to 780 watts. Therefore, the AC input cable must be rated to carry at least 3.4 amps (780 watts / 230 volts = 3.4 amps).
However, when using the charger in utility priority mode, consider the load of 230V appliances in cable calculations. This mode powers the loads and charges the battery. In part 2, I will perform tests to verify this.
The manual's recommendation of 6-16mm cables for AC input/output is misleading, as the cable size should depend on the user. Generally, mains hook up supplies only require a 2.5mm cable, rated up to 16 amps.
Regards,
Jolly
That's great thanks for confirming
Hi hope you get this as a notification. I set my renogy 2000 up and 200ah renogy battery up as you have . But I have fault code 89 out of frequency
And I cannot charge for my shore power the manual just says out of frequency. Any ideas to point me in the right direction.
Cheers Tom
Hi Tom, 'out of frequency' would suggest that the grid frequency of your shore power is not in the range that the inverter can handle, which is between 40-70Hz. When you connect to shore power, does the LCD display show the input frequency figure? You can use the up and down arrows to cycle through the menu to find the 'Input AC Hz' display.
Can you also check the input AC voltage when you're connected to shore power? Either by mutimeter reading or from the LCD display (Labelled as 'Input AC V').
It's also a good idea to check your wiring to ensure that everything is connected correctly. Sometimes, electronics can malfunction and display misleading errors if the wiring is incorrect.
Please let me know if i can assist further.
Regards,
Jolly
Great video lots of information. When on DC supply thought the inverter do you know what back feed protection is available to prevent backfeed to the dust board, drip out contactor possibly?
Hey Andy, i'm sorry i don't know. For technical information like this i would advise you contact Renogy support. They've never failed to help me out.
Regards,
Jolly
Hello!
I am in the US so our voltage here is 120. I think my Inv/Chg pulls 30 amps, and when I was working on my build I had it plugged into my regular (old) house outlet which I assumed only provided 15-20 amps. But every time we plug it anywhere else, it flips the (campground/friend's house, etc.) breaker. I got a 30 amp adapter and it works just fine with it, so that is why I am assuming mine pulls 30 amps. Per your video, if I go to setting 11 and change the voltage coming in (pull - charge), it should allow me to plug it into a regular outlet providing 15-20 amps without flipping the breaker? Or if I prioritize the batteries, would that do the trick? We are going to visit friends and it would be great to have power. Thank you so much for this amazing video!
Hey Raquel,
By default, the current for the 2000w model is 65 amps, while the 3000w model is 75 amps. The charge current for the battery is 12 volts, which means that the current required at 120 volts will be 6.5 amps for the 2000w model and 7.5 amps for the 3000w model. Therefore, overloading on a circuit breaker shouldn't be an issue.
However, the problem could be the connection between the 15 amp socket and the inverter (e.g. a shore power extension lead). It's worth noting that campgrounds and electrically up-to-date houses will have an RCD in their consumer unit that will pick up on even the slightest issue and trip out the circuit. So, it's important to check the 15 amp socket connections, where it plugs into the campervan and inverter.
If you need further assistance, please feel free to send me an email at jolly@vandercampadventures.com. I'll be able to go more in depth to diagnose the issue for you.
Regards,
Jolly
Can I hardwire the 700 watt directly to my AC house panel? And if so, how?
Hey,
Sorry, i'm not sure what you mean by 'the 700 watt', could you provide more information.
Regards,
Jolly
cable size looks a bit small for 200A fuse protection?
The 35mm tri-rated cable I used has a current carrying capacity of 240A. The link to this cable is in the description.
I found you video helpfull. Thank you
Thank you 👍
Just had my 3000w Renogy inverter/charger fitter by a company and notice they have not fitted isolator switch been told just switch inverter off on unit is this correct and when on ehu do I have to leave inverter on as this won’t charge batteries ? Many thanks kevin
Hey Kevin,
It's not essential to have an isolator switch on the battery cables. The isolator is there for maintenance purposes, you can remove the fuse but it's more faff.
Yes, when on EHU the inverter needs to be on to charge the batteries 👍.
Regards,
Jolly
That’s great to know thank you great vlog learning lots safe travels kevin
@@vandercampadventures is there a way to trickle charge your vehicle battery while stationary for long periods of time when leisure batteries are full either from solar or other ways cheers kevin
Hey Kevin, I hope you're well.
There is indeed. Renogy's DCC30 & DCC50 and the CTEK D250SE DC-DC solar chargers have a function that trickle charges the starter battery when the leisure battery is full.
This article has more detail for you - vandercampadventures.com/dc-to-dc-charger-with-mppt-solar/#The_4_Best_DC_to_DC_Charger_With_MPPT_Solar
I hope this is helpful. Please shout me if you need any more help.
Regards,
Jolly
Hi hope you are well just wandering I’ve had all the above fitted my vehicle battery seems to be draining every thing turned off not happened before the upgrade have they disconnect something from sergeant that’s making it do this any ideas what could be doing this ? Thinking of fitting Renogy dcdcmppt and bt2 so solar can charge both cheers for your advice kevin
Hi! I really have to ask about what do you do at the 39:07 mark?
So right now I have same setup as you and I get AC power icon showing 220v and the round shorepower icon, it blinks the AC/INV green. But when I plug in a 230v to outlet from the inverter the lights work, BUT the inverter stays in blinking AC/INV and never goes to the same mode as you are having after the 39:07.
I have followed the exact same settings as you in and it is in Utility mode. Only difference I can see is that for some reason my AC input is 220 and not 230.
Hi there! Thank you for leaving a comment. What country are you from and what do you mean by 'the inverter lights work'?
If the voltage at the shore power is typically higher, say 230v, then the 220v could be due to voltage drop. To determine this, I suggest you test the shore power voltage to see what it is.
When the AC/INV light blinks, it indicates that the inverter charger is in inverter mode, which is from the battery 12v to 230v. The shore power icon will appear when the inverter charger receives the mains shore power voltage. After approximately 8 seconds, the inverter charger will go into bypass mode once it is satisfied that the voltage is stable.
220v shouldn't be an issue because the input voltage range is between 155-275v (230v model). However, check the voltage and polarity of the shore power at the campervan. Also, ensure that your input and output connections at the inverter charger are correct.
I hope this information is helpful. Please let me know if I can help further.
Regards,
Jolly
Thanks heaps for posting this. For the popularity of these units there is surprisingly little information around on the how/why of installing them safely.
Looking forward to the next episode. I have the 3000w version which I want to put in a shed as a UPS to power some computers and a fridge. Would this then still need it's own circuit breaker? Would a seperate earth rod be needed here on the input side? Does the floating earth restrict the sort of appliances that can safely be used?
I've tried asking a few electricians about what I want done and either my explanation is terrible or the job sounds too fiddly/complex ad I've never heard back from them. Really appreciate what you're doing here as I think it should help me paint a clearer picture.
Hey Dominic,
Thank you for your support and kind words. I'm glad to be of help.
Regarding your questions:
1) It is necessary to have a circuit breaker to protect the cable of an electrical circuit. Hence, the supply cable and output cables connected to your computer and fridge must be protected via a circuit breaker.
2) The AC connection input must have an earth. An earth rod is adequate and might be necessary due to regulations since your installation is in a shed. Nevertheless, this requires further information about the electrical installation of your property. Also, earth rods require testing with electrical test equipment.
3) Appliances will not be affected by a floating neutral earth. They require mains voltage (around 230v) to function, and as long as they get this via the live conductors (L&N), the appliance will work correctly. If there is a fault, the internal fuses should blow, and since there is no direct contact with the earth, there is no fault path through you. Hence no shock. However, I always recommend using class 2 (double-insulated) appliances, where possible, as a safety measure.
As an electrician, I understand that the term 'electrician' is quite broad. It is not possible for one person to know everything about all the sectors in the field. Electricians have their specialized sectors; this may not be their sector. For instance, dealing with UPS, inverters, and 12-volt systems requires more specific knowledge and experience. Therefore, it is recommended to seek guidance from a qualified engineer with expertise in these areas, like myself.
Hopefully, this answers your questions and I haven't gone too deep into electrical geek language. Let me know if I can assist further.
Regards,
Jolly
@@vandercampadventures thanks so much for the detailed reply, helped so much 👍.
So Q1&2 seem to merge a bit for me now. If my shed power is coming via an extension cord from my house whose circuits already have breakers, would that constitute being suitably earthed? Or do I need a dedicated breaker at the input of the inverter/charger going to its own earth rod?
3) My computers will be class 2, so should be fine. I'll have to take a closer look at my fridge as it'll likely be class 1.
Thanks again!
Hey Dominic, no worries 👍.
If the extension cable has an earth, is suitably sized, and is supplied by a circuit breaker, it should be adequate. However, to determine whether an earth rod is necessary, electrical tests must be performed at the supply cable (inverter end). These test results will determine whether the earthing is sufficient.
Again, electrical tests must be performed to ensure proper grounding if an earth rod is used.
I hope this info is useful, Dominic.
Kind regards,
Jolly 🤟
The b on is your beep not the alarm set the beep to b off and that beeping will stop the a on or a off is the alarm
Hi Thanks for the video, great help. You said there was no RCD on the output side of the inverter but you didn't say how you make this side safe? I'm asking because I'm in Australia and we have to have the 240V side installed by a qualified Electrician and the guy that works on caravan electricals exclusively refused to install it as he felt they were unsafe, he said something about an MEN not sure weather it was because it had one or didn't have one?? I contacted Renogy for their comments and they said they would email me in 24 to 48 hours which was 8 days ago. Can you enlighten me please? Cheers Nick
Hello Nick, I hope you're doing well.
An RCD on the outgoing side (230v) of the inverter won't function as intended. The RCD requires a neutral-earth system, known as the MEN (multiple earthe neutral) in Australia, typically found in a house. However, this inverter is centre-tapped, so it has no reference to Earth. Meaning there are two live conductors (115v-115v) rather than a live and neutral (230v-0v). As a result, it is possible to touch one of the outgoing live wires without receiving a shock because there is no fault path. However, if you touch both outgoing live wires, you will receive a shock because you will be part of the circuit.
For safety, it is crucial to use double pole (DP) socket outlets on centre-tapped inverters. Single pole (SP) outlets switch only the live conductor, but DP outlets switch both line conductors (live and live). If a SP socket is used on a center-tapped system, the appliance connected to it will remain live even when the socket is off.
Most campervan inverters are set up this way, but some have the option to change the output to bonded (N-E) instead of centre-tapped, allowing an RCD to be used.
I understand your concerns regarding the safety of the campervan inverter system. I am currently discussing this issue with other electricians and engineers to determine why campervan inverters are centre-tapped, and we have identified a few reasons. In addition, I am conducting tests on the inverter charger to determine if it is possible to have an RCD on the outgoing side. I have a few videos and blog posts in the works, so stay tuned for more information.
In the meantime, I'll do my best to answer any other questions you have.
Regards,
Jolly
Hey Nick, the Renogy Inverter Charger install video PART 2 has been published today which goes into detail about fuseboards and RCD protection. Check it out here - ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html.
Sorry for the delay.
Regards,
Jolly
Thanks for the reply, are you saying that the outlets in the caravan will be dual pole or are you saying I will have to change all the power points? Cheers Nick
Hey Nick, I'm not familiar with Australian sockets, but I can offer advice based on UK sockets.
To determine if the sockets supplied from the inverter are single-pole or double-pole, it's best to use a socket tester. First, plug in the tester and switch the socket off. If the tester turns off, then the socket is double pole. On the other hand, if it doesn't turn off, it will show a fault, indicating that it's single pole.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Jolly
I understand following the data sheet but dont you find they are always massively over spec’d? Surely the hookup cable you plug in on site will not be 6mm? More likely to be 2.5mm?
The 2000w model can be supplied with a 2.5mm cable. However, it does depend on the cable length due to voltage drop. That's why we recommend doing your own cable calculations to find out what cable you need.
We used 6mm from the consumer unit to the inverter because we had some spare.
Will it charge the battery when in battery priority mode when AC is connected before it hits the low voltage setting? Or does it just not charge the battery ever when in battery priority mode?
Hey Joseph,
The inverter charger does not charge the battery in 'battery priority' mode.
The AC source will supply power to the loads only when the battery reaches the 'low battery voltage setpoint'. If there is no AC source (hook-up) available when the battery reaches the 'low battery voltage setpoint', the inverter charger will shut off all loads to protect the battery from over-discharge.
I hope this helps,
Regards,
Jolly
How do you ground it if its not used in a van but in a house? Just to a negative battery connector?
The ground wire must be connected to the AC mains power earthing system, which is typically located in the AC fuseboard.
How many amps are you pulling in with your Rover & how long are you pulling? I have the same Rover, when I'm getting 26 ah the unit gets so hot the wires starts to smell. I believe i have the biggest wore i can get to fit, which is 4 gauge. I used 1/0 gauge to connect the inverter, had to make the ends. I have a steam shower in my van so i have a huge power draw.
Hello there, my apologies for the delayed response.
If the cables are the correct size, the most common reason for them getting hot at an inverter is the crimp connections. If these connections are not done correctly, some copper strands may be loose, causing a bad connection, which under load will generate heat.
In order to diagnose the issue, I will need some more information from you. Could you please answer the following questions:
- What is the wattage or amperage of the steam shower?
- Where exactly are you getting the 26 amps?
Regards,
Jolly
@vandercampadventures I have installed two fans behind the Rover that have solved the problem. When I have the steamer on, it draws 102 ah. I have 680 ah lithium power bank, 700 watts on the roof & 400 watt solar blanket, 50 amp dc to dc 2k inverter, Rover 60 amp all Renogy but the shunt. It's been about a week, I was getting 49ah for a few hours, and the charge controller was cool to the touch. Just needed more ventilation.. Thanks for getting back to me.
Fitting 1of these at the moment have you got a update on the Rcd breaker distribution board many thanks
Hey, sorry for the delay on part 2. I'll be uploading the video next week 👍
Hey @elevatingroofscampervan3282, PART 2 of the install video has been published today which details the fuseboards and RCD protection. Check it out here ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.html.
Sorry for the delay.
Regards,
Jolly
Hi,
So having watched your video… very useful.
My question is it okay taking the live to the battery, fused and with an isolator as you have it with the negative from the inverter to the buzz bar?
Hey Ryan,
Thanks for your comment, good question.
Yes, the negative can go to the busbar. However, you must ensure the battery to busbar cable is adequately sized.
Regards,
Jolly
Hi there can you please help me with this I've checked live to neutral I've got 230 volts but if I check live to earth I've only got 75 volts I haven't connected the earthbound yet surly I should get 230 volts on the live to earth thanks mark
Hi Mark, is this on the AC input or AC output?
I would suggest watching the Part 2 video. That video goes into detail about wiring and testing the inverter charger.
Regards,
Jolly
@@vandercampadventures hi there it in DC output from the inverter when you plug into shore power it's fine wondering if you guys can check you one to see what voltage your getting live to earth mines only just under 80 volts but when I plug my inverter into shore power it's fine I get 230 volts
Sorry I'm getting 80 volts between live and earth neutral to live is 230 volts
@markwhitney8458 the reason for the difference in voltage is because the inverter is centre-tapped. I explain it all in detail in Part 2 of the installation video. Heres the link - ua-cam.com/video/gecrb2rPUvU/v-deo.htmlsi=ivcK99Y7neQtCDJx
Thanks I watched the video a few times I forgot recall center taped but to be honest most of it went over my head that's put my mind as rest hanks for your help👍
Hi, I’ve got the same unit as you and would like some advice please 🙏🏻 in inverts mode I have input and out put on my led screen… input 231v,,,, output 229v but I’m not hooked up to my shore power? Also on inverter not hookup I’ve got the red light showing on my consumer unit to say wrong polarity ? Any advice is appreciated
Hi Paul,
I'd be happy to help you out. However, to diagnose the issue, could you please send me an email to jolly@vandercampadventures.com with photos of your consumer unit wiring, the red light, and inverter charger wiring connections?
Regards,
Jolly
@@vandercampadventures thank you🤣I’ll send some pics tomorrow when it light 🤣
Hi Jolly i have the same issue as above. Could explain how to sort please thanks in advance. Great info so far thanks JP
Hey there. First thing to check is the cable connections into the inverter. Double check the hook up/shore power supply cable is in the AC input and the AC output cable goes to your 'sockets' (loads).
If this doesn't resolve the issue, send me an e-mail (jolly@vandercampadventures.com) with as much info as possible and pictures and I'll do my best to help you out 👍.
Regards,
Jolly
I have one challenge with my 2000 watt Renogy I/C on my boat. The preset for lithium prevents charging if the battery is above 12.5 volts. The problem with this is that my battery could be at 20% charge when I leave the dock, so instead of having 300 ampere hours at my disposal, I only have 60 ah. Does anyone know if there is a way to force the Renogy unit into charge mode in this instance?
The way I overcome this is by switching the inverter charger off and on again. This will trigger the charger to charge the battery.
Calculate how long it will take to charge to 100% to ensure you have full juice before you leave the dock.
@@vandercampadventures I will try this. I assume you do that on the unit itself and not on the remote.
We do it from the remote. The remote switches the unit off completely, which is handy for this situation.
@@vandercampadventures I have tried from the remote, but it only goes into charging mode for one minute and then returns to inverter mode, but I will experiment with this a bit to see if I can force it into charging mode.
Could this model inverter/charger be used 24/7 in a small house or is it just for campers or that in the summer or weekends?
It depends more on what your using it for rather than its location. I should be fine as long as it's being used to the manufacturers recommendations 👍.
I'm interested what you'll be using it in for house?
Hello, I've been using a Krieger 1100 for the past 12 months in a caravan we are living in temporary on a site out in the sticks, when we didn't have the generator running for internet, telly and that, which was running off my old lead 120amp battery which we since replaced with a 200amp lithium battary, so I decided to buy 3 X 450w 12amp solar panels, and a Renogy rover panel controller like yours, but only used one panel, and it worked very well, we only use the generator now for vacuum and washing machine, my partner don't like living in the caravan, so I'm thinking of getting a perfab house for her, and putting all three panels on roof of that unit, connect them to the rover unit, then to 2 X 200amp battaries to inverter like what you have but 3000w, that way we only have to use generator if any section of solar system breaks down, of course you can't use power in this system like a conventional house, you have to watch the limitations of the inverter, I'm about to order an inverter same as yours, bar it being 3000w, and my Krieger has just packed in, ( which I going to use for emergency back up)what I'm wondering, should I buy cheaper inverters or that, and if they are going to pack in once a year or that, replace it with another cheap one or will buying a more expensive one worth while, or in your opinion should I be going to 24/48v which I don't want to do because it's handy to have a 12v system and purchase 12v/240v appliances for more options if inverter fails, thanks for your time, sorry about the essay
I am trying this: battery is priority, if voltage drops to 12v then switch to utility, if battery charged to 13v (solar) then go back to battery, just cant get this working, any suggestions? tnx
Hi there,
Interesting setup and the idea behind it is great.
There doesn't seem to be a setpoint for switching the power back to battery priority. There may be a built-in setpoint that is not mentioned.
Have you tested the setup to see what happens when the voltage rises after the battery priority switches to utility power?
I recommend contacting Renogy support and providing them with as much information as possible. They'll be able to assist you better.
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Regards,
Jolly
@@vandercampadventures Hi, I asked same question on amazon ... there is a setpoint 12: " Low battery voltage point when the power source switches from battery to utility But there is NO auto switch back to battery if is13v ( solar)?"
Barry answered:
"I sent mine back for a refund. Could not get it to work."
Renogy support made me 1 month of rounds with mismatched answers, looks like they finally accepting that there is a bug, promised to resolve issue..
Hi there,
I've spoken with Renogy support about your issue and they've replied with 'While the current functionality of the inverter requires a restart to switch back to battery power, our team is actively working on improvements to enhance user convenience.'
A restart involves powering down the inverter charger by isolating it from all AC and DC power sources. Not very convenient for your needs.
They're happy to facilitate a return for a refund if the current setup is less than satisfactory.
Regards,
Jolly
@@vandercampadventures Thanks! But main issue is that there is no setpoint for ats switch back to battery
Great stuff mate. Out of curiosity are we as people protected at all on the output side ?
Hey Mrt 👍,
Theoretically you wouldn't get a shock if you touch either live because there is no neutral to Earth bond.
However, you would get a shock if you touched both lives. Holding one in each hand would mean your part of the circuit, so would know about it.
Therefore, it's crucial that all socket outlets are double pole (they isolate the 'live' and 'neutral') and the electrical installation is installed to current regulations. That way your safe and sound.
Regards,
Jolly
The manual on my inverter charger (2000w) states that in DC mode there is a neutral earth bond
Renogy support confirmed that these newer PCL inverter chargers don't have an automatic N-E bond switch like the older versions, rendering the manual (V1.1) outdated.
The one I have came with the v1.1 manual, how would I know which inverter charger I have, is there a way to determine if it has the NE bond or not by inspection?
@@vandercampadventures so on the new ones you dont need RCD protection after the inverter?
My automatic charger dont work
Renogy 3000 inverter charger
I would need more information to help diagnose the issue with you. If you can provide as much info as you can I'll do my best to help 👍
I can’t find the manual link where is it
The manual link is in the description 👍
Sorry I don’t know where that is
Just underneath the video title, click '...more'. That will open up the full description 👍
@@vandercampadventures I still can’t find it it must be hidden from me
What description where do I find that then can you please explain that in plain English so I know where to look
Don’t worry about the manual for that unit since you don’t want to tell me where to find the so called link for it I’ll just go to the library and pay them to download and copy them on A4 paper so keep it I don’t care don’t think you have a link for the manual because I can’t find it