In a battery ignition system the spark plug fires when the points OPEN. When they're closed is when the coil saturates. When the points open, the built-up voltage in the primary windings of the coil collapses, inducing a higher voltage in the secondary windings which fires the plug.
+Gordon Moore you are correct, sir. I realized this after I made the video, and I put in annotation on the video, but it doesn't show up on all computers.
I have 2 Bulls at home ...1980 and 2011...my older one was in the garage for the last 7 weeks cos my schedule did not tally with my mechanic. I stumbled upon ur video ... Took my toolkit ... A business card ... It took me 2min to get my bull thumping as usual ... Felt a bit stupid that I did not know these basics ... But a big thank you for this video !!!!
A quick post to thanks so much for your excellent series on Royal Enfields. I currently work in Brunei (Borneo) and have just completed a hefty service of my Sixty Five and, being no mechanic, managed not to screw up my Bullet. Much of this is down to you! Keep up the good stuff!
When I used to smoke, I would open my baccy tin that I always had in my pocket and use the top flap of my blue Rizla packet for setting points ...Always checked them when I got home and was never far out ..worked a charm every time !
My dad used to smoke till around 45 years of age. He was a veteran biker. He too used his Navy cut Wills box to adjust the point and plug gaps. He owned the Royal Enfield Ensign(England), old Indian Bullet 350 and a James Captain 197cc.
Tiny point only, it's that the piston should really only be advanced to the required position BTDC in a forwards direction rather than by rocking to and fro till the gauge shows you've arrived. The reason is that in the camshaft drive train there is always a little backlash and on high miles bikes can be a lot of backlash, which can make your piston travel measurement slightly inaccurate. (not critical with a soft engine like the bullet)
Thanks once again.Coil is indeed charging when circuit is closed, sparks when high voltage from the coil is released after circuit break, points open. Found that with real Indian Enfield the backplate not only rotates, but also moves up and down, left and right, in all directions difficult to adjust. Suggest to add rubber cover over the point cover, it helped me getting through the Himalayas without any problems. cheers
Hi Hoobs, If you are between marks or in an awkward place on the TDC tool you can thread it in or out of the spark plug hole to line up a convenient mark. You can also get a tool (basically a large washer) from Hitchcocks in the UK to lock the points at fully advanced then set the engine at 8mm(or 32 degrees) BTDC so timing it in the fully advance position where most of the running is done. Hope this helps. Cheers great vid.
the only thing I can say is thanks !!!! Thanks and keep making videos about bullets. What about starting a series where you talk about improving the bullet ??
Hi there, Stumbled across your video and the only thing I do different when tuning my bullet is to pop a Gunsons colortune on once I've set the points. Really easy to use and sets the carb up properly. Currently getting 70mpg, used to get around 60mpg. Got mine off of ebay. Nice video, take care John B
Pretty good, but a coupla points to consider: The timing tool is good and I think I'll get one. Don't worry so much about it hitting the gas tank. It might damage the PISTON. I use a dial indicator. Don't BACK the engine to the firing point. Always come UP in the direction of engine rotation. This takes up the slack caused by any wear as if it were running. Put a drop of oil on the point cam spindle and make sure the cam moves freely and returns easily. I'm going to run out of characters.
The spark happens when the points open as the collapsing magnetic field from the primary windings causes the secondary windings in the ignition coil to produce a high voltage potential difference. Setting the ignition timing without an inspection eye and timing marks is a real challenge. Engineering design failure? Trying to detect 0.8mm BTDC by feel using a plunger through the sparkplug hole is virtually impossible without a dial micrometer! After looking at various sites that suggested draining oil, removing timing case cover, or chaincase cover and using a protractor attached to the crankshaft, I've come up with an alternative option. The distributor shaft rotates at half crankshaft speed as the points open for the spark on the top of the compression stroke only. So, if you attach a protractor to the top of the distributor shaft, it will rotate 180 degrees per crankshaft rotation and thus 8 degrees BTDC on the crankshat will be 4 degrees of distributor shaft rotation, which will be a lot easier to detect than 0.8mm of piston movement. The larger the protractor, the easier it will be to get the right position. Use a pointer attached to a suitable part of the engine and align it with the 0 mark on the protractor at the top of the compression stroke, detected by feel using a plunger (use something longer than the stroke so that it can't fall into the cylinder and, just in case you've misjudged, tape a piece of string to it so that if it gets past where you can grip it firmly, you can carefully pull it back !) So, get the piston to the right position on the protractor by finding TDC and aligning the zero with the pointer, then either rotating the engine using the back wheel with the bike in gear through almost a full cycle, or using the kick starter pedal to get it most of the way there and gradually nudging it with the back wheel until the 4 degrees mark ahead of the zero lines up with the pointer. You can now carefully adjust the position of the backplate of the distributor until the points just open using a light bulb, voltmeter, or watching the ammeter needle flick back to zero on the instrument cluster. Tighten the nuts and rotate the engine through a complete cycle and check and adjust if necessary.
Yes, OPEN! not close... i normally measure this with a 0,05mm feeling gauge.. I find it difficult to watch the points, the TDC tool AND ammeter at the same time..
Yeah the bike was totally submerged. The carb had a lot of white gunk in it I'm guessing its from the salt in the water. The hudson is mostly fresh water but I guess it probably got all the salt from the surge from the sea. I miss my bike dearly. BTW I managed to somehow get my motorcycle into my apartment via the freight elevator. Best piece of furniture I've ever owned LOL
Thanks Dave for you advice. The kick wont budge the slightest bit it only move if I have the clutch held. Thats a video to show how the decomp doesnt have any pressure to pull the decomp cable. (Sorry about the back ground noise was watching 150 years of the FA presentation :) )
Hi Karl, TO HONE the bore is to give it a light rub with fine abrasive cloth to remove any surface marks or to LIGHTLY remove any glaze (shine) from the bore If the bore has very, very fine abrazive marks like tiny scratches it holds the oil on the bore a bit better and the rings can gradually bed in with plenty of lubrication. You could say another name for hone could be scuff. When a re-bore is done the last process is honing with fine wetstones. Try finding it on UA-cam. Dave
The gap between spark plug should be thickness of "Hacksaw blade". Open a bit more if you need bike to be free. If you turn the timing to the left then the running increases causing more pickup & mileage. If you turn timing to right then the pickup & mileage would decrease a bit but you get very good thumb and beat(sound). If the gap btw points is small then running will get rough and if more the pickup wont be there & causes bike to choke. Adjust as per your riding choice and enjoy !!
I am wondering if you incorrectly stated the spark ignites when the points close? My understanding is the spark occurs when the points separate. Point gap is set with the cam at high point touching the point feeler and adjusting to your .0015 setting. "Misfiring" seems to imply the point gap is out of adjustment in the sense the point gap may be too narrow or too wide, thus affecting the spark performance....I have a 1968 Norton Atlas that is giving me a huge problem in adjusting the timing.
I've got about four feet of snow here and it's too cold now, but come spring I'll figure out how set the timing on my Bullet at full advance and let you know. My timing needs checking - sometimes it kicks back while starting and backfires and blows the carburetor right out of the manifold rubber. The air turns blue for yards around as well. Heh .I can and have put it back together in 5 minutes in front of the supermarket using the RE tool kit.
And to elaborate. Visibly there is a back pressure which is created and may be due to the advanced spark. Or is there any reed valve(as in 2 Strokes) which is leaking gases back to the carb side. And since the throttle(baffle) is closed there is no way for the gases to escape and causes the carb to be thrown off.
vidéo stopped at the most interesting bit, actually adjusting the timing! Great vid up til then though... I specifically wonder how much that backplate moved when you had the timing advanced correctly?
One point ( pun intended) is that the plug sparks when the points open. The opening stops the flow of current through the coil's primary winding, forcing it through the secondary winding. The secondary winding increases voltage and the current heads to the plug which then sparks.
Hi,no hints or tip's just some lnfo on the original royal Enfield bullet I bought my first a350cc in 1957. For £7.from a friend of a friend'who had stripped it down, and could'nt or would'nt Rebuild it ,it came in 2 packing case's along with the frame. And wheels ,it was only 6year old with rear swinging arm suspension, with telescopic front forks (all my previous bikes had girder forks)it only took a couple of weeks to rebuild and respray it .it did'nt have any decompression lever, or choke ,just a manual slide choke on the mono bloc carb, it was a very reliable bike used daily for many year's and could top 70mph, the only fault,which was minor was the crankcase breather poppit valve lnbuilt into the RH lower side. Which hallways leaked small amounts of oil,a renewed o ring seal only lasted a few months, the' engine noise was a brilliant throbbing beat, not like the sickly sound of your machine which sounded a diesel without any lubrication, I drove it for 12thousand miles,with very few problems as for reliability One drove round the world a few years ago the Indian made bullets are good, but not a patch on the original UK bikes I was 16 years of. Age when I rebuilt the bull it, now I am a 75 year old. Ex biker with many happy memories
You don't have to be an ex-biker. It's not too late to get back on the road. The new Cafe Racer model is nice, and built better and stronger than the Indian Enfields of a few years ago.
Old BSAs and Triumphs didn't have timing marks either before about '68 so we learned to use a special half-time degree wheel that fit in the center of the point cam. Alternatively, we could use a screwdriver in the plug hole with marks inscribed on it for TDC and full advance. Static timing is best set at full advance or a worn advance unit might throw the timing too far advanced and blow a hole in the piston. It's not practical on the RE but be aware.
Point setting can be done while the engine is running on stand , n with proper experience it's easy by adjusting the point post screws , I normally do in my 1970 model bullet
When I did this and found the most optimum point I marked the cam and the baseplate with a skratch so I just had to line up the skratches if the baseplate had been un-alined.
In all the bikes I've owned, the spark fires when the points OPEN. The gap is also important because it decides how long current flows through the coil, which in turn decides the strength of the magnetic field in the coil, which in turn determines the strength of the spark.
In a pinch, you can put a piece of cellophane from a cigarette pack between the points. Rotate the engine and when the cello pulls out, the points have opened. I use a Yamaha points checker that I've had for forty years. The condenser is to prevent counterflow voltage. If you get a misfire, check for arcing between the points indicating a bad condenser. It'll be obvious - you can darn near READ by it! The absence of factory timing marks on these things means you have to know what you're doing.
Correct.. The spark is fired when the points just open from the closed position. At that time the ignition coil is fully charged and when the points open, the spark fires.
Gordon Moore: Kind of correct. It fires the spark when the gap opens, yes. But no, not because “the built up voltage in the primary windings of the coil collapses”. It is actually more like the opposite! 😉 What happens when the points open is that the current though the primary (that is ~ corresponding proportionally to the magnetic energy in the core of the coil) want to continue to run - due to the magnetic energising of the coil. A coil is basically “current-sluggish” - i.e. a current running through a coil “want to be unchanged”. It take energy in or out of the system to change the current (like the thermal losses in the heating of the coil wire the will eventually drain the energy if there are no other way fort the energy to escape, but a spark in the spark plug is the better way out! 😆). That is the reason why a supra magnet (=supra-conductor coil) maintains a magnetic field that is locked into it when made super conductive (got frozen). There are no losses in a supra conductor! So - what happens when the point are opening is that the current strives to continue - and therefor the voltage (electric tension) skyrockets! The speed of this rising must be kept slow enough to stop a spark from occuring between the point, therefor the capacitor. The coil however, despite of the name, is not really a coil but a transformer, so there are both a primary and a secondary winding. The latter have many, many more turns than the primary and will thusly exhibit a voltage as many times higher than the one over the primary. So THAT voltage will create sparks over the distance between the electrodes of the spark plug. 😀 In short, the voltage does not collapse, it skyrockets!
Thank you for this video. My 2009 Bullet has been misfiring and I wasn't sure what causes it (pardon my ignorance). I'd take it to mechanics, who'd either clean the spark-plug, adjust the carb or fiddle with this thing (on your video). After a lot of hit-n-trial, they'd get it corrected. But it (engine misfiring) has always annoyed me.
@gordonemoore Hi, Hitchcocks here in the UK sell a special washer/tool so you can lock the points cam in the fully advanced position. I think they are about £5 OR £6 GBP. I made a TDC tool from an old spark plug with the centre knocked out and a bolt which a friend marked in MM increments for me with one extra line 0.8 mm above the TDC line. I just bring it up to TDC and turn the plug to line up with the line. drop it back a half revolution then back up to the 0.8 mark. Simple. Part 2 next
alright . i can remove diode by my self for the testing purpose. but i worried ABOUT THE charing ( diode was added bcoz batery was not getting charge on the run/idle ) . in chase if she runs well after removing diode and bateery charging issue come again . what do u suggest ?
hello there, my bullet battery is not getting charged while engine is ON . If i rememeber correctly , i had same issue 6 years ago. it got fixed after adding a diode ... do u know where exactly i need to add this in wiring unit .. mechanics here in my place copudnt fix the issue .already rectifier changed ,,, it get little charged when i give very high accelarator ....
Hi Hoohoohoblin, RE lubricating the ignition points cam, there is, or should be, a small bit of felt attached to the points plate, this is for oiling the cam face. Soak it with light oil and this will keep the cam face lubed for quite a few miles. Cheers Dave UK
HI its a great video. could you suggestion what could be the reason behind getting a jerk spcl while climbing steep ascend and in top gear? is it becoz of bad ignition tuning ?
Thanks for another informative video. Could you please tell me which Amal carburetor model that is installed on your RE plus where I can I find the adapter/spacer to work with this type of carburetor. Your response would be greatly appreciated.
Hi. I have changed the CB plate along with all component except condenser.at ideal the bike runs perfect. But when I rev it. It misfires and spits and lose the ignition. When accelerated the bike lose power.Any idea what can be problem thanks
@notwocdivad Thank you. My old Tri/BSA setup has a special washer to do that. In a pinch you can bend a flat washer slightly concave and it will do the same thing. Spend the fiver on fun! (wink). I made a similar TDC finder, no marks. Rotate engine one way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is at TDC, rotate engine the other way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is halfway from where it stops to TDC. Marks are a good idea. I like timing in degrees when I can.
Frnd i m from goa an i hv 535cc royal enfield i hv removed the stock silencer an replaced by goldstar but i m nt getting good thumb plz tel wht can i do
hello there, my bullet battery is not getting charged while engine is ON . If i rememeber correctly , i had same issue 6 years ago. it got fixed after adding a diode ... do u know where exactly i need to add this in wiring unit .. mechanics here in my place copudnt fix the issue .already rectifier changed ,,, it get little charged when i give very high accelarator ....
I hope the firing happens when the point is open. And when it is closed the current passes through the condenser and the ignition coil and voltage is raised close to.20KV and ready for the next firing in the battery system
HI It does not back fire but the running increase like woooooommmmmm , and after some time it settles down . i hope i am making some point to explain my problem , I acctually don't have much idea about the technical words you guys use to define some problem . simple words . accelerates on high rpm when we stop or evn is riding on neutral and after some time it settles down.
thanks for this vids I have bulls of 2k model my problem is when I try to climb up hilly roads its hard to run and sometimes I cant go ahead . I have replaced the interior parts with all genuine except contract point but the problem still occurs . so pliz tell me wat problem it would be pliz upload more details to repair cb point . my suspect is in cb points.
Thanks for a nice video. I have a 82 model with Delco. I find starting the bike in morning very difficult it takes 50 kicks to start it . Is it a good idea to fix a Magneto ? If so any idea how I can fix a Magneto pls ? I understand the spark has to be triggered from magneto instead of battery drawn power . I need videos or photos to do it myself as no mechanic in my place seem to know how to do it
Hi Karl, Sorry to here of your mishaps, Hope you and your family are all ok. Re the bike, I agree with Hoobs, remove the plug and oil the cylinder bore and rings, I wouldn;t try to force the piston to move with the kick start It could break the kick start pawl. You might be better off removing the head and working on it with an open cylinder, Use a hard wood drift and TAP it with a hammer once you get it moving remove the cylinder and give the bore a light hone and inspect the rings. Pt 1
hi thanks for replying , i acctually cleaned it twice and now days what i am thinking is that the carb itself may be the problem as its so old and be screwed n number of times . can it be a possible reason as i have change the point with the new set . thanks again
hey hoblin, i own an electra 350cc 2007 make. can you help me adjusting its carburetor screws & its basic functioning like what happen if i loose the mixture screw etc. it has 3 screws fuel, mixture & air. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!!
You can do it that way. If you want your bike to be unreliable. However you should never adjust the spark plug gap, never sand anything down, never use feeler's. Throw them away! Use a multimeter on a continuaty setting to find the right spot, and set your points to open there. By the way the coils berak down when the points OPEN. Or go to Merton tec College in London.
Mr. hoohoohoblin, i need your advice. I have to change the spark plug almost after every 4 days, it becomes oily. My mechanic have repaired the pistons and piston rings and also have the block cutted, but the problem still remains. I wonder if i should change the whole block with the pistons and the rings all new or should i just save money and try to buy the RE350 classic this time. I find it hard to let go of my Bullet. please help. btw, your videos are of GREAT HELP, a big thumbs up to that..
Hi there bud, I wrote to you a year ago regarding some rust issues on exhaust pipe. I own an electra X 2008. Recently my bike was completely submerged in water due to hurricane Sandy. I wasn't able to tend to her immediately and somehow managed to store her away for a month. Finally back stateside I tried to fix her. I tired moving the kick using the decomp switch but it just wont budge. The kick moves when I hold down the clutch. I am scared that the piston rings may be ruined.
Will pick that up today from Sears and let you know how it goes. Suppose the piston is freed after I do this, will it affect the engine when it runs with there being rust on the rings (fear of scouring)? Thanks a lot man.
Hey Brian, Muchous Gracias ... for this VID and posting it out here so quick! It actually helps me realize how skilled this effort could be...In India they say when u ride a Bullet and if you know how to set the ignition timing all perfect without misfires ...you are then considered or assumed as a PRO or equivalent to be aRIDER cum MECHANIC! I had similar issues with my bike that rufused to fire & with me experimenting it ,messed & advanced the darn thing!Finally lost patience got a mechanic!
hi i am from india and own 2002 model bullet 535 cc. the problem i am facing is that when i start it and go on the ride it does well but when i stop in between or keep my bike start on ideal running it never remeins as it is , some times i notice the firing becomes very fast & after some time it normalizes to normal and with in seconds it stops , i really feel very annoying when it goes off the timing is exactly been set as per your video , kindly help me in keeping my bike on slow running
Thanks man. "give the bore a light hone" (typo?) what does that mean? I've never opened up my engine before or any engine for that matter. So I'm pretty apprehensive about doing that. I probably need some sealant and some gaskets to put the engine back together right? I have a thing called liquid gasket which is rubber based will that work? Thanks a lot for your help.
You'd allso like to grease the felt, or behind the felt, so it soakes with the grease and always leaves a thin film on the cam. That's what this ting is meant for.
I started facing 'wwwoooommming' noise from the engine after it gets hot. This sound pops only when I release the throttle to slowdown and I feel like engine is getting too much pressure. Holding decompress slightly reduces the pressure and noise . I am bit confused about whether it is carb or problem in clutch .or the decompress cable . have you ever come accross such problem
In a battery ignition system the spark plug fires when the points OPEN. When they're closed is when the coil saturates. When the points open, the built-up voltage in the primary windings of the coil collapses, inducing a higher voltage in the secondary windings which fires the plug.
+Gordon Moore you are correct, sir. I realized this after I made the video, and I put in annotation on the video, but it doesn't show up on all computers.
I have 2 Bulls at home ...1980 and 2011...my older one was in the garage for the last 7 weeks cos my schedule did not tally with my mechanic. I stumbled upon ur video ... Took my toolkit ... A business card ... It took me 2min to get my bull thumping as usual ... Felt a bit stupid that I did not know these basics ... But a big thank you for this video !!!!
Thnx man it solved my bikes missing problem,It was from last 6 month and no mechanic could make it.Thanks a lot .
A quick post to thanks so much for your excellent series on Royal Enfields. I currently work in Brunei (Borneo) and have just completed a hefty service of my Sixty Five and, being no mechanic, managed not to screw up my Bullet. Much of this is down to you! Keep up the good stuff!
When I used to smoke, I would open my baccy tin that I always had in my pocket and use the top flap of my blue Rizla packet for setting points ...Always checked them when I got home and was never far out ..worked a charm every time !
+gpo746 I have heard that that method works very well. I never smoked, so I always did it with a tool.
My dad used to smoke till around 45 years of age. He was a veteran biker. He too used his Navy cut Wills box to adjust the point and plug gaps. He owned the Royal Enfield Ensign(England), old Indian Bullet 350 and a James Captain 197cc.
A paper match booklet flap works well too
Tiny point only, it's that the piston should really only be advanced to the required position BTDC in a forwards direction rather than by rocking to and fro till the gauge shows you've arrived. The reason is that in the camshaft drive train there is always a little backlash and on high miles bikes can be a lot of backlash, which can make your piston travel measurement slightly inaccurate. (not critical with a soft engine like the bullet)
Thanks once again.Coil is indeed charging when circuit is closed, sparks when high voltage from the coil is released after circuit break, points open. Found that with real Indian Enfield the backplate not only rotates, but also moves up and down, left and right, in all directions difficult to adjust. Suggest to add rubber cover over the point cover, it helped me getting through the Himalayas without any problems. cheers
What is the cause of engine jerk after changing gear
awesome,help,people say it is difficult to maintain an enfield so u dont buy one,with ur videos i can go ahead buying my 500 cc
Hi Hoobs, If you are between marks or in an awkward place on the TDC tool you can thread it in or out of the spark plug hole to line up a convenient mark. You can also get a tool (basically a large washer) from Hitchcocks in the UK to lock the points at fully advanced then set the engine at 8mm(or 32 degrees) BTDC so timing it in the fully advance position where most of the running is done. Hope this helps. Cheers great vid.
You are absolutely right👍🏾
the only thing I can say is thanks !!!!
Thanks and keep making videos about bullets.
What about starting a series where you talk about improving the bullet ??
Hi there, Stumbled across your video and the only thing I do different when tuning my bullet is to pop a Gunsons colortune on once I've set the points. Really easy to use and sets the carb up properly. Currently getting 70mpg, used to get around 60mpg. Got mine off of ebay.
Nice video, take care
John B
Thanks for all your really helpful and informative videos. Its great to get to know and work on my own bike. 👍👍👍
Pretty good, but a coupla points to consider:
The timing tool is good and I think I'll get one. Don't worry so much about it hitting the gas tank. It might damage the PISTON. I use a dial indicator.
Don't BACK the engine to the firing point. Always come UP in the direction of engine rotation. This takes up the slack caused by any wear as if it were running.
Put a drop of oil on the point cam spindle and make sure the cam moves freely and returns easily.
I'm going to run out of characters.
you have enormous knowledge about the machine .. much respect .. !! will bother you if i come across some problem with mine
+Prashant Rawat Thanks. I'm glad I can help.
The spark happens when the points open as the collapsing magnetic field from the primary windings causes the secondary windings in the ignition coil to produce a high voltage potential difference.
Setting the ignition timing without an inspection eye and timing marks is a real challenge. Engineering design failure? Trying to detect 0.8mm BTDC by feel using a plunger through the sparkplug hole is virtually impossible without a dial micrometer! After looking at various sites that suggested draining oil, removing timing case cover, or chaincase cover and using a protractor attached to the crankshaft, I've come up with an alternative option.
The distributor shaft rotates at half crankshaft speed as the points open for the spark on the top of the compression stroke only. So, if you attach a protractor to the top of the distributor shaft, it will rotate 180 degrees per crankshaft rotation and thus 8 degrees BTDC on the crankshat will be 4 degrees of distributor shaft rotation, which will be a lot easier to detect than 0.8mm of piston movement. The larger the protractor, the easier it will be to get the right position.
Use a pointer attached to a suitable part of the engine and align it with the 0 mark on the protractor at the top of the compression stroke, detected by feel using a plunger (use something longer than the stroke so that it can't fall into the cylinder and, just in case you've misjudged, tape a piece of string to it so that if it gets past where you can grip it firmly, you can carefully pull it back !)
So, get the piston to the right position on the protractor by finding TDC and aligning the zero with the pointer, then either rotating the engine using the back wheel with the bike in gear through almost a full cycle, or using the kick starter pedal to get it most of the way there and gradually nudging it with the back wheel until the 4 degrees mark ahead of the zero lines up with the pointer. You can now carefully adjust the position of the backplate of the distributor until the points just open using a light bulb, voltmeter, or watching the ammeter needle flick back to zero on the instrument cluster. Tighten the nuts and rotate the engine through a complete cycle and check and adjust if necessary.
Yes, OPEN! not close... i normally measure this with a 0,05mm feeling gauge.. I find it difficult to watch the points, the TDC tool AND ammeter at the same time..
I like your teaching, thank you
You are a Bullet "Guru" -- Very informative ! Thanks for recording this and uploading. Well done Brotha !
+dongodsmanna You're welcome.
Yeah the bike was totally submerged. The carb had a lot of white gunk in it I'm guessing its from the salt in the water. The hudson is mostly fresh water but I guess it probably got all the salt from the surge from the sea. I miss my bike dearly. BTW I managed to somehow get my motorcycle into my apartment via the freight elevator. Best piece of furniture I've ever owned LOL
Thanks Dave for you advice. The kick wont budge the slightest bit it only move if I have the clutch held. Thats a video to show how the decomp doesnt have any pressure to pull the decomp cable. (Sorry about the back ground noise was watching 150 years of the FA presentation :) )
Hi Karl, TO HONE the bore is to give it a light rub with fine abrasive cloth to remove any surface marks or to LIGHTLY remove any glaze (shine) from the bore If the bore has very, very fine abrazive marks like tiny scratches it holds the oil on the bore a bit better and the rings can gradually bed in with plenty of lubrication. You could say another name for hone could be scuff. When a re-bore is done the last process is honing with fine wetstones. Try finding it on UA-cam. Dave
The gap between spark plug should be thickness of "Hacksaw blade". Open a bit more if you need bike to be free.
If you turn the timing to the left then the running increases causing more pickup & mileage. If you turn timing to right then the pickup & mileage would decrease a bit but you get very good thumb and beat(sound).
If the gap btw points is small then running will get rough and if more the pickup wont be there & causes bike to choke.
Adjust as per your riding choice and enjoy !!
I really enjoy your RE videos, thanks for sharing.
I am wondering if you incorrectly stated the spark ignites when the points close? My understanding is the spark occurs when the points separate. Point gap is set with the cam at high point touching the point feeler and adjusting to your .0015 setting. "Misfiring" seems to imply the point gap is out of adjustment in the sense the point gap may be too narrow or too wide, thus affecting the spark performance....I have a 1968 Norton Atlas that is giving me a huge problem in adjusting the timing.
I've got about four feet of snow here and it's too cold now, but come spring I'll figure out how set the timing on my Bullet at full advance and let you know. My timing needs checking - sometimes it kicks back while starting and backfires and blows the carburetor right out of the manifold rubber. The air turns blue for yards around as well. Heh .I can and have put it back together in 5 minutes in front of the supermarket using the RE tool kit.
ignition occurs when the points are not touching each other not the other way around
Hi hoohoblin ur videos Royal Enfield Repair are great. Pls keep on making such wonderful videos.
+Divyarajsinh Jadeja Thanks!
great post..thanks for sharing..will try after the rains.. monsoons started in India..
Thanks for the Great lesson about point setting, nice 👍well understood
And to elaborate. Visibly there is a back pressure which is created and may be due to the advanced spark. Or is there any reed valve(as in 2 Strokes) which is leaking gases back to the carb side. And since the throttle(baffle) is closed there is no way for the gases to escape and causes the carb to be thrown off.
Should be watching for the TDC on exhaust stroke also (wrong one). What you need is the TDC on compression stroke. Might want to mention that .
Ye, took a look at their website. Pretty cool. Though weird that a 2k1 model is a bit complex to start up.
vidéo stopped at the most interesting bit, actually adjusting the timing! Great vid up til then though... I specifically wonder how much that backplate moved when you had the timing advanced correctly?
One point ( pun intended) is that the plug sparks when the points open. The opening stops the flow of current through the coil's primary winding, forcing it through the secondary winding. The secondary winding increases voltage and the current heads to the plug which then sparks.
Ok fine explanations , how about if there is a play in the timing gear
Hi,no hints or tip's just some lnfo on the original royal Enfield bullet I bought my first a350cc in 1957. For £7.from a friend of a friend'who had stripped it down, and could'nt or would'nt
Rebuild it ,it came in 2 packing case's along with the frame. And wheels ,it was only 6year old with rear swinging arm suspension, with telescopic front forks (all my previous bikes had girder forks)it only took a couple of weeks to rebuild and respray it .it did'nt have any decompression lever, or choke ,just a manual slide choke on the mono bloc carb, it was a very reliable bike used daily for many year's and could top 70mph, the only fault,which was minor was the crankcase breather poppit valve lnbuilt into the RH lower side. Which hallways leaked small amounts of oil,a renewed o ring seal only lasted a few months, the' engine noise was a brilliant throbbing beat, not like the sickly sound of your machine which sounded a diesel without any lubrication, I drove it for 12thousand miles,with very few problems as for reliability
One drove round the world a few years ago the Indian made bullets are good, but not a patch on the original UK bikes
I was 16 years of. Age when I rebuilt the bull it, now I am a 75 year old. Ex biker with many happy memories
You don't have to be an ex-biker. It's not too late to get back on the road. The new Cafe Racer model is nice, and built better and stronger than the Indian Enfields of a few years ago.
Hi
got hold of the TDC tool now.. will adjust timing this week.. thanks for the video.
regards
ramamoorthy; India
Hey, i have seen many old threads about old Enfield in many forums liks bcm touring and tbhp. I guess it's you 😁
Old BSAs and Triumphs didn't have timing marks either before about '68 so we learned to use a special half-time degree wheel that fit in the center of the point cam. Alternatively, we could use a screwdriver in the plug hole with marks inscribed on it for TDC and full advance. Static timing is best set at full advance or a worn advance unit might throw the timing too far advanced and blow a hole in the piston. It's not practical on the RE but be aware.
its great video... i got to learn about point....
Hiya, Hoohoo - I just ordered the TDC finder from Nfield Gear. They have them on sale for $3. Oil filters on sale as well, $3.98.
Point setting can be done while the engine is running on stand , n with proper experience it's easy by adjusting the point post screws , I normally do in my 1970 model bullet
Can you please share the royal Enfield bike manual? I have never been able to catch hold of it. Thanks!
When I did this and found the most optimum point I marked the cam and the baseplate with a skratch so I just had to line up the skratches if the baseplate had been un-alined.
yes that does sound right on money. i had to double check that myself and I did
In all the bikes I've owned, the spark fires when the points OPEN. The gap is also important because it decides how long current flows through the coil, which in turn decides the strength of the magnetic field in the coil, which in turn determines the strength of the spark.
That's true.
In a pinch, you can put a piece of cellophane from a cigarette pack between the points. Rotate the engine and when the cello pulls out, the points have opened. I use a Yamaha points checker that I've had for forty years.
The condenser is to prevent counterflow voltage. If you get a misfire, check for arcing between the points indicating a bad condenser. It'll be obvious - you can darn near READ by it!
The absence of factory timing marks on these things means you have to know what you're doing.
Correct.. The spark is fired when the points just open from the closed position. At that time the ignition coil is fully charged and when the points open, the spark fires.
Starting the ingine Breezer pipe can leaked oil please tell hot it can do
This might help. Royal Enfield Wet Sumping Fix - Bullet 500 Motorcycle ua-cam.com/video/qWczauM-nFs/v-deo.html
Gordon Moore: Kind of correct. It fires the spark when the gap opens, yes.
But no, not because “the built up voltage in the primary windings of the coil collapses”. It is actually more like the opposite! 😉
What happens when the points open is that the current though the primary (that is ~ corresponding proportionally to the magnetic energy in the core of the coil) want to continue to run - due to the magnetic energising of the coil.
A coil is basically “current-sluggish” - i.e. a current running through a coil “want to be unchanged”. It take energy in or out of the system to change the current (like the thermal losses in the heating of the coil wire the will eventually drain the energy if there are no other way fort the energy to escape, but a spark in the spark plug is the better way out! 😆).
That is the reason why a supra magnet (=supra-conductor coil) maintains a magnetic field that is locked into it when made super conductive (got frozen). There are no losses in a supra conductor!
So - what happens when the point are opening is that the current strives to continue - and therefor the voltage (electric tension) skyrockets! The speed of this rising must be kept slow enough to stop a spark from occuring between the point, therefor the capacitor.
The coil however, despite of the name, is not really a coil but a transformer, so there are both a primary and a secondary winding. The latter have many, many more turns than the primary and will thusly exhibit a voltage as many times higher than the one over the primary.
So THAT voltage will create sparks over the distance between the electrodes of the spark plug. 😀
In short, the voltage does not collapse, it skyrockets!
wow never seen it done before. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing
thanks, very clear video - and great detail
is it mandatory to adjust the ignition timing each time i adjust the point gap?????
No. It should stay the same. Just adjust the gap and see how it runs. It should be fine.
Thank you for this video. My 2009 Bullet has been misfiring and I wasn't sure what causes it (pardon my ignorance). I'd take it to mechanics, who'd either clean the spark-plug, adjust the carb or fiddle with this thing (on your video).
After a lot of hit-n-trial, they'd get it corrected. But it (engine misfiring) has always annoyed me.
sayantanutbe mine also has same
What to do
I set static timing with a multimeter and timing marks.
@gordonemoore Hi, Hitchcocks here in the UK sell a special washer/tool so you can lock the points cam in the fully advanced position. I think they are about £5 OR £6 GBP. I made a TDC tool from an old spark plug with the centre knocked out and a bolt which a friend marked in MM increments for me with one extra line 0.8 mm above the TDC line. I just bring it up to TDC and turn the plug to line up with the line. drop it back a half revolution then back up to the 0.8 mark. Simple. Part 2 next
very good video , your a great help . keep up the good work
+panzermyer Will do. Thanks.
alright . i can remove diode by my self for the testing purpose. but i worried ABOUT THE charing ( diode was added bcoz batery was not getting charge on the run/idle ) . in chase if she runs well after removing diode and bateery charging issue come again . what do u suggest ?
hello there, my bullet battery is not getting charged while engine is ON . If i rememeber correctly , i had same issue 6 years ago. it got fixed after adding a diode ... do u know where exactly i need to add this in wiring unit .. mechanics here in my place copudnt fix the issue .already rectifier changed ,,, it get little charged when i give very high accelarator ....
Hi Hoohoohoblin, RE lubricating the ignition points cam, there is, or should be, a small bit of felt attached to the points plate, this is for oiling the cam face. Soak it with light oil and this will keep the cam face lubed for quite a few miles. Cheers Dave UK
Thanks
hello on a 350 bullet, Should the rotor move in and out on the shaft when it's bolted up tight? Need help. Thanks
HI its a great video.
could you suggestion what could be the reason behind getting a jerk spcl while climbing steep ascend and in top gear? is it becoz of bad ignition tuning ?
Is there is jerk after changing gear (upshifting?)
@@sreejus2872 it was 6 years ago. i guess so it was when upshifting
Great video... very informative.
Thanks for another informative video. Could you please tell me which Amal carburetor model that is installed on your RE plus where I can I find the adapter/spacer to work with this type of carburetor. Your response would be greatly appreciated.
its still not clear, as m getting the frequent stops in or kickbacks so how this will help me plz lemme know
Hi. I have changed the CB plate along with all component except condenser.at ideal the bike runs perfect. But when I rev it. It misfires and spits and lose the ignition. When accelerated the bike lose power.Any idea what can be problem thanks
@notwocdivad Thank you. My old Tri/BSA setup has a special washer to do that. In a pinch you can bend a flat washer slightly concave and it will do the same thing. Spend the fiver on fun! (wink). I made a similar TDC finder, no marks. Rotate engine one way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is at TDC, rotate engine the other way 'til it stops, move degree wheel so pointer is halfway from where it stops to TDC. Marks are a good idea. I like timing in degrees when I can.
Frnd i m from goa an i hv 535cc royal enfield i hv removed the stock silencer an replaced by goldstar but i m nt getting good thumb plz tel wht can i do
hello there, my bullet battery is not getting charged while engine is ON . If i rememeber correctly , i had same issue 6 years ago. it got fixed after adding a diode ... do u know where exactly i need to add this in wiring unit .. mechanics here in my place copudnt fix the issue .already rectifier changed ,,, it get little charged when i give very high accelarator ....
An other thing; The spark plug thread is under an angle, so you have to use phytagoras on the .8mm..
Ek number very nice🙏👍👍👍👏
Thank you so much sir really good video
You’re welcome.
I hope the firing happens when the point is open. And when it is closed the current passes through the condenser and the ignition coil and voltage is raised close to.20KV and ready for the next firing in the battery system
HI
It does not back fire but the running increase like woooooommmmmm , and after some time it settles down .
i hope i am making some point to explain my problem , I acctually don't have much idea about the technical words you guys use to define some problem .
simple words . accelerates on high rpm when we stop or evn is riding on neutral and after some time it settles down.
thanks for this vids I have bulls of 2k model my problem is when I try to climb up hilly roads its hard to run and sometimes I cant go ahead . I have replaced the interior parts with all genuine except contract point but the problem still occurs . so pliz tell me wat problem it would be pliz upload more details to repair cb point . my suspect is in cb points.
hai brother .its a good video
i aready downloaded and subscribed..
now we waiting for engine assembling video
+Ratheesh Chandran thanks. I don't think I will be taking the engine apart anytime soon.
thankzzzzz
it relay helpful for me to adjust bike timing
I want to change my C/B ignition system to boyer branson mk 4.. What is your opinion..?
Thanks for a nice video. I have a 82 model with Delco. I find starting the bike in morning very difficult it takes 50 kicks to start it . Is it a good idea to fix a Magneto ? If so any idea how I can fix a Magneto pls ? I understand the spark has to be triggered from magneto instead of battery drawn power . I need videos or photos to do it myself as no mechanic in my place seem to know how to do it
Good very clear
Hi Karl, Sorry to here of your mishaps, Hope you and your family are all ok. Re the bike, I agree with Hoobs, remove the plug and oil the cylinder bore and rings, I wouldn;t try to force the piston to move with the kick start It could break the kick start pawl. You might be better off removing the head and working on it with an open cylinder, Use a hard wood drift and TAP it with a hammer once you get it moving remove the cylinder and give the bore a light hone and inspect the rings. Pt 1
hi
thanks for replying , i acctually cleaned it twice and now days what i am thinking is that the carb itself may be the problem as its so old and be screwed n number of times . can it be a possible reason as i have change the point with the new set .
thanks again
hey hoblin, i own an electra 350cc 2007 make. can you help me adjusting its carburetor screws & its basic functioning like what happen if i loose the mixture screw etc. it has 3 screws fuel, mixture & air. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!!
You can do it that way. If you want your bike to be unreliable. However you should never adjust the spark plug gap, never sand anything down, never use feeler's. Throw them away!
Use a multimeter on a continuaty setting to find the right spot, and set your points to open there. By the way the coils berak down when the points OPEN. Or go to Merton tec College in London.
could you post a link to that repair kit?
Mr. hoohoohoblin, i need your advice. I have to change the spark plug almost after every 4 days, it becomes oily. My mechanic have repaired the pistons and piston rings and also have the block cutted, but the problem still remains. I wonder if i should change the whole block with the pistons and the rings all new or should i just save money and try to buy the RE350 classic this time. I find it hard to let go of my Bullet. please help. btw, your videos are of GREAT HELP, a big thumbs up to that..
@hoohoohoblin only problem its under the magneto cover so i have to buy a special tool for 10 € but thats not too bad if it fixes it
Hi there bud, I wrote to you a year ago regarding some rust issues on exhaust pipe. I own an electra X 2008. Recently my bike was completely submerged in water due to hurricane Sandy. I wasn't able to tend to her immediately and somehow managed to store her away for a month. Finally back stateside I tried to fix her. I tired moving the kick using the decomp switch but it just wont budge. The kick moves when I hold down the clutch. I am scared that the piston rings may be ruined.
Which size filler Gage how mm gap should be
Will pick that up today from Sears and let you know how it goes. Suppose the piston is freed after I do this, will it affect the engine when it runs with there being rust on the rings (fear of scouring)?
Thanks a lot man.
Hey Brian, Muchous Gracias ... for this VID and posting it out here so quick!
It actually helps me realize how skilled this effort could be...In India they say when u ride a Bullet and if you know how to set the ignition timing all perfect without misfires ...you are then considered or assumed as a PRO or equivalent to be aRIDER cum MECHANIC! I had similar issues with my bike that rufused to fire & with me experimenting it ,messed & advanced the darn thing!Finally lost patience got a mechanic!
How make havey sound old bullet ..plz one video
pls add about airfilter cleaning..
Do you think my points a re dameged cause my bike should go around 45 kph but its going 35kph and its all arond lazy
Boss It looks to be supercool but howto controll the strokes of engine ......
Points systems fire when the points open. I know, seems backwards, but it's not.
can explain a bit more on the pinging sound. What would e be getting for?
informative. . nice one 😊
Thanks.
hi
i am from india and own 2002 model bullet 535 cc. the problem i am facing is that when i start it and go on the ride it does well but when i stop in between or keep my bike start on ideal running it never remeins as it is ,
some times i notice the firing becomes very fast & after some time it normalizes to normal and with in seconds it stops ,
i really feel very annoying when it goes off the timing is exactly been set as per your video , kindly help me in keeping my bike on slow running
Hai this scale where is available
Thanks man. "give the bore a light hone" (typo?) what does that mean? I've never opened up my engine before or any engine for that matter. So I'm pretty apprehensive about doing that. I probably need some sealant and some gaskets to put the engine back together right? I have a thing called liquid gasket which is rubber based will that work? Thanks a lot for your help.
You'd allso like to grease the felt, or behind the felt, so it soakes with the grease and always leaves a thin film on the cam. That's what this ting is meant for.
I started facing 'wwwoooommming' noise from the engine after it gets hot. This sound pops only when I release the throttle to slowdown and I feel like engine is getting too much pressure. Holding decompress slightly reduces the pressure and noise .
I am bit confused about whether it is carb or problem in clutch .or the decompress cable .
have you ever come accross such problem