There are 3 things that I would say could be causing the issue: different ambient temperature; problem with the power source; their cable and/or display. So I would try to eliminate those variables to narrow down the root cause.
in this instane your video would be great for the customer to see and for them to understand and believe you that the problem is their end. they have two options, either re-evaluate their power source or try the usb c mod, which i think would resolve their issue based on the diagnostics performed.
I would recommend that the customer invest in a decent quality UPS to isolate and clean up any mains noise potentially as an alternative solution, it would also help preserve the electronics in the long run of any device plugged in
Another problem area may be their power suppl wall wart, w8 hear me out :p Their electrical system may be undervolting the incoming AC power, and also there are sus power capacitors inside this AC/DC converter enough that it is only effected when the OP's home electrical is used VS the shop power. Had you tried setting your bench PSU to simulate an undervoltage on the AC line, seeing if this re-creates the fiddiculty?
Does the customer have a video on their setup and problem on screen ? Sometimes some details appearing there could help ( maybe they are plugging this in a loaded extension cord, maybe they see a bit different pattern etc ). The problem though is pretty specific "My console does not work on cold boot" The thing is that two main solutions seem to exist, based on your video : 1. Customer has a set up that causes noise on the power rail and needs to change something in order to cold boot. 2. You shield the console from noise. If i was the customer I would always prefer the second, as otherwise it would make me feel there is always a chance of failure. So... the question is "Do we want to spend the time and money on making this a usbc mod task instead of a debugging one ?" I would anyway ask the mod as a customer, generally is a better choice on this time and age, makes any possible power brick issues irrelevant and it would anyway be a debugging step that would make both of us move from this question we have now and see if anything more comes down the line - even though it is pretty clear that a clean 5v from the Rigol device makes it boot every time and a clean power input should do the same. If they dont like your price, I'm sure they can find someone else to do it, that said, this video definitely shows you did your best, including telling them what, in your informed opinion, the next step should be.
4:48 Not necessarily. My best guess since its working in your setup but not his? 99.99% is probably radio high frequency noise in his area and that regulator is not that good at managing that. Looking at the PSU cable, its super long which means its acting like an antenna. Depending how he wrap it around or leave it be, it will pick up radio noise. To solve it, cut the cable to length and make it shorter and add ferrite rings which are pretty cheap. Probably try the ferrite rings first.
@@vjnobody You can't do the AC side coz its an enclosed power supply, perhaps it already have it inside idk but just do it at the DC side since that's where the long cables are.
Have them put a UPS between the power from the wall, and the AC adaptor, and see if it still occurs. That should prove that their is an issue with dirty power from their wall.
Could it be a temperature issue? I built a PC years ago that would not boot at the clients house, but when sent to the parts supplier, it would boot fine.... it went back and forth a few times until they attempted to boot first thing in the morning before turning on their AC.... Perhaps it needs the extra bit of warmth it generates while being powered up, hence it faulting on cold boot..... Unlikely to be the issue - but may be worth keeping in mind...
Offer the USB C half price - if it works fine upon arrival customer pays the remaining half - if it doesn't, then call it a half price gift? And pray the customer is honest with you. That's what I'd do. But I'm not running a business so 🤷♂️
Is a blown power filter internal to the customer’s television a possibility. I have been this issue on cable tv boxes here in the us due to a power back feed issue from the customers television. I’m assuming it’s putting excess noice back into the device and causing this failure that appears be an under voltage issue. Also possibly a faulty ground circuit in the customers house allowing excess noise.
There are 3 things that I would say could be causing the issue: different ambient temperature; problem with the power source; their cable and/or display.
So I would try to eliminate those variables to narrow down the root cause.
in this instane your video would be great for the customer to see and for them to understand and believe you that the problem is their end. they have two options, either re-evaluate their power source or try the usb c mod, which i think would resolve their issue based on the diagnostics performed.
I would recommend that the customer invest in a decent quality UPS to isolate and clean up any mains noise potentially as an alternative solution, it would also help preserve the electronics in the long run of any device plugged in
Another problem area may be their power suppl wall wart, w8 hear me out :p Their electrical system may be undervolting the incoming AC power, and also there are sus power capacitors inside this AC/DC converter enough that it is only effected when the OP's home electrical is used VS the shop power. Had you tried setting your bench PSU to simulate an undervoltage on the AC line, seeing if this re-creates the fiddiculty?
Does the customer have a video on their setup and problem on screen ? Sometimes some details appearing there could help ( maybe they are plugging this in a loaded extension cord, maybe they see a bit different pattern etc ). The problem though is pretty specific "My console does not work on cold boot"
The thing is that two main solutions seem to exist, based on your video :
1. Customer has a set up that causes noise on the power rail and needs to change something in order to cold boot.
2. You shield the console from noise.
If i was the customer I would always prefer the second, as otherwise it would make me feel there is always a chance of failure.
So... the question is "Do we want to spend the time and money on making this a usbc mod task instead of a debugging one ?"
I would anyway ask the mod as a customer, generally is a better choice on this time and age, makes any possible power brick issues irrelevant and it would anyway be a debugging step that would make both of us move from this question we have now and see if anything more comes down the line - even though it is pretty clear that a clean 5v from the Rigol device makes it boot every time and a clean power input should do the same.
If they dont like your price, I'm sure they can find someone else to do it, that said, this video definitely shows you did your best, including telling them what, in your informed opinion, the next step should be.
Tell the guy to try another outlet or go try at a friend house or the mod you mentioned.
I'm confident in saying it's the customers incoming supply. & please tell me you're not wearing a cow Onesy.
4:48
Not necessarily. My best guess since its working in your setup but not his?
99.99% is probably radio high frequency noise in his area and that regulator is not that good at managing that.
Looking at the PSU cable, its super long which means its acting like an antenna. Depending how he wrap it around or leave it be, it will pick up radio noise.
To solve it, cut the cable to length and make it shorter and add ferrite rings which are pretty cheap. Probably try the ferrite rings first.
Came here to say this about the ferrite. One at each end of the incoming AC, do it after the AC/DC convert too why not?
@@vjnobody
You can't do the AC side coz its an enclosed power supply, perhaps it already have it inside idk but just do it at the DC side since that's where the long cables are.
I have an AC bench power so can adjust and control the AC fully
Your the expert brother, whatever you say goes !!
Have them put a UPS between the power from the wall, and the AC adaptor, and see if it still occurs. That should prove that their is an issue with dirty power from their wall.
Could the screen+cables draw power from the system and disturb the voltage regulator?
We need more videos for neogeo aes mods and fixes 👍
Could it be a temperature issue? I built a PC years ago that would not boot at the clients house, but when sent to the parts supplier, it would boot fine.... it went back and forth a few times until they attempted to boot first thing in the morning before turning on their AC....
Perhaps it needs the extra bit of warmth it generates while being powered up, hence it faulting on cold boot.....
Unlikely to be the issue - but may be worth keeping in mind...
I'm going to seal the pcb in a bag and freezer it and try it that way when pretty chilled
Offer the USB C half price - if it works fine upon arrival customer pays the remaining half - if it doesn't, then call it a half price gift? And pray the customer is honest with you. That's what I'd do. But I'm not running a business so 🤷♂️
Is a blown power filter internal to the customer’s television a possibility. I have been this issue on cable tv boxes here in the us due to a power back feed issue from the customers television. I’m assuming it’s putting excess noice back into the device and causing this failure that appears be an under voltage issue. Also possibly a faulty ground circuit in the customers house allowing excess noise.
Yes I'll try and get them to test on another device if possible