Quit when ahead yep. Literally me yesterday. Put off working on transmission for months. Finally got it apart and almost together in a matter of hours last night. Until I forced the outer case on the inner thinking it was the snap ring being a pain but instead pushed the shaft thru the aluminum base of the case FML. $300 replacement or $800 weld repair quote..
@@ZILAwelds Thanks man, but the issue was the last gear rod hadn't fallen into it's spot and I just forced it until the rod popped the circle through the base. Upon opening, all the crevices between the shafts were broken up and cracked like a L.A. sidewalk. Alum-Bond was a thought until I seen the inside. Replacement coming. Much appreciated tho!
@@ZILAwelds yea I figured. I worked as a mechanic for a few summers. Even lug nuts weren't safe from the impact gun in that shop. I believe mechanics have a motto "if tight is good , then more tight is more good" 😂😂😂
*Great job. Noticed 0.2s pre and 9.5s post flow. Is post flow primarily all that matters here?* *I have had trouble with injection cast aluminum mating to machined aluminum like your boss/fitting.* *Was that a no-prep weld or did you extensively clean that before?*
7 місяців тому+1
_Been There, Done That, Bought The T-Shirt, Using It As A Rag To Detail My Car._
Looks real good. I welded a lot of boat outdrives over the years with an old tig with a foot control. Learned it from an old guy when I was in my 20's. 40 years later I get a call now and a gain to weld one up from where I used to work. Just had to make sure I had a Stainless wire brush to keep it clean between passes.
I just had to comment this being one of the few skills in mechanical repairs I have not mastered! No idea what the numbers pre weld were, but fascinated of aluminum welding as it is a specialty all in itself! Bravo on a great video and a job well done! Thank You!
So that aluminum is about 1/8” thick there’s no real reason to go get carried away with a preheat. I left it cold. I was afraid I would melt it down too much if I preheat it.
The repair looks good to me. New subscriber here. I have a Powermig 300 and weld some aluminum with it. I repaired a transfer case for my neighbor that had come loose and broke 3 or 4 mounting ears off. Saved them 1300$.
I used to watch you when you teamed up with that kid but somehow my "suggested videos" never showed you. I assumed you had given up YT. Good to see you back.
My cousin does this. The transmission must be disassembled first to avoid any contamination, dirt or molten globs falling on the gears which would destroy the gears & bearings. Then you need to prep the casting surface so it is spotless. Plus that transmission prob had ATF like the ford M5OD. ATF is flammable. He custom machines adapters that use the OEM threaded plugs. He’s a true professional welder and master machinist.
exactly, its oil not gasoline ... and tig does not spark and throws glowing little bbs inside the transmission .... its fine, the guy already put 500 miles on it
I agree should be disassembled. You might get away with it but even one little piece of junk will cause premature failure of a gear or bearing. But then again I have seen some shadier shit last a long time lol.
To me it looks like you forgot one important thing, cleaning the casting by either grind a little or using a stainless steel brush. The result would have been even better.
I'd use an acetylene torch to both clean and preheat. To get the right temperature, reduce oxygen to put some soot on the aluminum, then heat with blue flame until soot burns off.
Back in the early 80s I hit a rock that must have fallen off a truck that was out on the freeway late one night... It broke a chunk of about the same size off of the bottom corner of the C-4 transmission... A used one was like $600 from the junk yard, or something like $1,700 for a new one from Ford... So, beings I worked for a living with kids at home, I pulled the tranny, cleaned the wound several times with acetone, cut a piece of 1/4" plate aluminum to sort of fit the ragged opening without falling into the transmission and literally JB Welded it into/onto the hole.... For the 4 hours of labor, the price of the JB Weld, and the acetone, that patch never showed a sign of dampness or weeping for the rest of the time I owned that car (about 6 years)... I also used Epoxy to repair the casing after a Kohler engine threw a rod out the side of it on a lawn tractor back in the day... all 3 pieces of the casing landed on the floorboard after hitting my pants leg and work boot.... Rebuilt that motor and epoxied the case back together, used it until the following spring until a guy traded me some carpenter shop equipment I could not pass on... A week later, I sold one of the saws I got in the trade and went up and bought a new 17hp lawn tractor... Funny how things work out sometimes...
Nice job. I did weld repairs like that for 23 years and am amazed that you got such a low amount of peppering considering you look to have done minimal amounts of prep to the base metal. I would have put air pressure in through the fill plug hole and die ground the broken metal surface and around it where my weld would actually contact and then also wire brushed the area thoroughly. That being said, I did notice that certain brands of parts use cast aluminum that is much easier to do a clean weld. I would assume that is due to the alloys used in the casting.
Looks like a good job to me, aluminum can be tricky, especially on castings. If you don’t want the square end of the plug sticking out, you can get them with a hexagon hole to fit a hex-key. Neater finished appearance.
Had shocks put in by a sears Auto shop, got home, less than two miles away, saw under the car one shock hanging loose, they over torqued the bolts and close to twisted them off. Cranked the impact gun to the max? No doubt.
Just rotated my tires, had to use a 3 foot breaker bar and jump on the bar with my 200 pounds, so, over 300 ft/lbs of torque, on aluminum wheels that are supposed to be 95. And supposedly a good tire shop. 😠
it was not 1 piece it was 7 or 8 pieces an 2 were missing ... and it would not have worked welding it all together n then somehow recut the treads .... it ws cracked thought he threads in 3 spots ..
Peter I wasn't judging the repair it turned out pretty good! Was just curious why the missing piece/pieces weren't used as you never mentioned it or how badly it was broken! sorry if it seemed if I implied otherwise.
no need to be sorry, i never filmed the broken pieces, i cant remember if i talked about it in part 2 of the video or not …. I have some in depth explanation in there
Why didn't you clean the outside of the transmission case first at the spot you were welding? I always heard a good welder spends a good amount of time preparing the area, like a painter.
Two questions: 1. Are you going to get particles in the transmission from the welding? 2. Are you able to weld steel to aluminum? It looked like that drain plug is made out of steel.
Generally there is no spatter with TIG like there would be with MIG or stick, so there shouldn't be anything in the trans. No, you can't weld steel to aluminum.
Tig welding is “clean” no particles in the transmission And no, other than explosion welding you cant join steel to aluminum. All parts were aluminum…..
I just welded. The AC cleaning action takes care of the rest … it wasnt that dirty. Look at my video about oxides … that explains it pretty well, if you cant find it, let me know i will send a link
enjoy your videos - thanks for sharing Im wondering why you didnt wipe down anything with acetone AND why you didnt use the tig arc to boil out the oil from the trans case before laying down rod ?....was it to show that your equipment can weld dirty or something else....would appreciate an answer for my own welding knowledge - thank you
Who said that he didn’t, the casting looked clean to me and even for alloy tig welding, there wasn’t much fume coming away. The lack of ‘smut’ after welding and before he wire brushed it makes me believe he did prep it first. JMHO.
@@sonofadutchman9315 JMHO - Peter is pretty thorough and I think if he cleaned and boiled out before welding he would have included in his video - its just a question that PETER should repond to.
I might have cleaned that base casting a lot to freshen the surface before TIGing to get better adhesion. But this isn’t a life or death weld. Just needs to hold fluid under minimal pressure. I might also have torched that casting and heated the base metal to 300 degrees or so before starting to weld.
@@JAYJAYJAY53 I saw the factory drain plug ... and I saw 5 of the 7 pieces that broke out around it .... most of them cracked through the threads ... it was "unfixable" .... well we all know nothing is unfixable ... but the amount of effort ... putting all the tiny puzzle pieces back together and then fixing the treads and and and ... a bunch of aluminum shavings everywhere .... to weld a new bong in was the easiest way and a clean way too .... and I only stock NPT (pipe thread half couplings (bongs) from 1/8" to 2" ... so I went to my bin, .... well my bin was MIA ... so I ordered these 2 of amazon to get the job done ....
i would still touch up on the area where the black spots are. Could be the weakest point and the thinnest area of the tig weld, could be the weakest point fail and leak after a while.
Typically most transmissions have the drain plug on the bottom. As the guy overtightened it pieces fell on the floor. Since it was easier for me to weld the transmission the way you see it in the video, i simply turned the transmission upside down, rather than me welding upside down
Was it just snapped off then whilst they were undoing a stuck plug? And who paid for the box removal?? The dealer or the customer. Castings often break with over tightened taper plug.
A++ nice job. You knew what you were doing. You saved an elderly mans hemorhoids! Very nice tig alumamag fillet weld. Very impressed you got it to stick! You saved him thousands of dollars on a new trans.ission. g ood job!
You might get the idea that you can just get in there and weld that in without cleaning the area. I use heat and acetone to get it clean when you are working an area that has grease or oil.
Repair looks great. Did you use any heat dam to protect the RTV sealant at the case seam just in front of the weld. Had a garage my whole career and the number of oil pan and transmission pan leaks we saw over the years caused by exhaust heat help put my kids thru school
The heat didn’t put was not as massive as you might think The Aluminum sucks it out pretty good distributed through the whole case. It’s not all piling up just in that area where I’m welding. The short answer no I took some breaks in between the welds felt it with my bare hands. I don’t think that there is a problem burning the silicone.
great repair, but whatever the guy hit out on the road will probably be hit again, now that the repair sits lower than stock. That's just the way it is, right?
I didn’t want the chips from the dye grinder to fall inside the transmission. Besides, the crack was “clean“ there was no oil or no surface contamination in the crack area.
JB Weld would have worked fine! It didn't need a drain plug, either, just a patch. Cover the hole with a plate & in the future, drain it through the tailshaft hole. Your fix did look nice, though. More than a Mustang deserves.
It would have been nice if you would have used a filter on the camera so that we could have watched the process to compare the weld with at the end. Thanks for the video.
Odd to think how the dealership broke it. I've done a couple of manual drain and refill and didn't find the drain part to be a thing. Refill is a different story.
That looks like a China-made Getreg MT82 six speed. They have quite a few issues, they all seem to have thrust bearing issues, and the guys making a lot of power break the welds on the 3rd gear. They are quite notchy also, which is probably why the owner took it to the dealer for a fluid change. Ford should have used the TR6060 transmission but they got cheap. Really cool repair, but I would have tacked it in, and then flipped it and welded it the rest of the way upside down. I would have put the plug in there before you hit it with the wire brush also. Nevertheless if I'm honest with myself, I'd have been the one to cause the issue and not fix it lol. I really want to get into Tig but man is it a steep cost to entry.
Damn Peter! You got so many welding machines you are having to use chairs as welding carts. Lol What’s the welder just to the back left of the 251? Looks like it has an independent wire feeder on it. Also looks like a Stel machine.
Well, you see it on my bench “upside down” it broke out will (presumably) all the metal pieces and the original drain plug falling on the floor At least that is what i gathered from what the customer told me and the pieces he showed me …. 🤷♂️ That is also the reason why i chose to not “clean it” with a die grinder or something …. Even though a small aluminum piece or 2 is not necessarily a death sentence for a manual transmission with hardened steel gears ….
@@ZILAweldswhat are you talking about, we can all see the oxidation on that gearbox housing. And when it's a part that have been in contact with oil you should heat it up and burn away the oil. If you are afraid of a bit of aluminium dust inside the gearbox use your vacuum cleaner or compressed air inside the gearbox so you have air leaving the hole so nothing gets in. But a bit of dust from a wirewheel will not harm the gearbox just do a tight oil change. I can definitely see pinholes in your weld.
@@ZILAwelds The electricity is a cost too. The iron brush. You might need a grinder or a file if you want to make it look like the original. Not sure if bits of shard fall in or if there is any consequence to it accidentally falling inside. You might need a magnetic drain screw. Definitely not a DIY.
Vince that does a lot of the welding from Deboss Garage Rich won't like this video. He absolutely hates all the contaminated aluminum welding he's already asked to do! This might give Rich more ideas 😂 Very nice job though.
ua-cam.com/video/Exf7P1tKw54/v-deo.html. This is part 2 explaining it all
The secret for success is knowing when to quit when you're ahead...I still have trouble with that but I'm getting better. Great video thumbs up.
So true!
Quit when ahead yep. Literally me yesterday. Put off working on transmission for months. Finally got it apart and almost together in a matter of hours last night. Until I forced the outer case on the inner thinking it was the snap ring being a pain but instead pushed the shaft thru the aluminum base of the case FML. $300 replacement or $800 weld repair quote..
@@justmy2centshere send me an email, I will weld the case for you. CL@zila.net
@@ZILAwelds Thanks man, but the issue was the last gear rod hadn't fallen into it's spot and I just forced it until the rod popped the circle through the base. Upon opening, all the crevices between the shafts were broken up and cracked like a L.A. sidewalk. Alum-Bond was a thought until I seen the inside. Replacement coming. Much appreciated tho!
I can already see the mechanic hitting it with the impact gun 😂. The work looks lovely!
That is how it happened in the first place
@@ZILAwelds yea I figured. I worked as a mechanic for a few summers. Even lug nuts weren't safe from the impact gun in that shop. I believe mechanics have a motto "if tight is good , then more tight is more good" 😂😂😂
Yall dealing with bad mechanics. 😂
@@SnareX you know it's true 😂😂😂
Was it the kids first day on the job? Holy crow….
"Knowing when to stop" so true, so easy to mess the whole job up looking for cosmetic perfection. Been there done that
*Great job. Noticed 0.2s pre and 9.5s post flow. Is post flow primarily all that matters here?*
*I have had trouble with injection cast aluminum mating to machined aluminum like your boss/fitting.*
*Was that a no-prep weld or did you extensively clean that before?*
_Been There, Done That, Bought The T-Shirt, Using It As A Rag To Detail My Car._
Looks real good.
I welded a lot of boat outdrives over the years with an old tig with a foot control.
Learned it from an old guy when I was in my 20's.
40 years later I get a call now and a gain to weld one up from where I used to work.
Just had to make sure I had a Stainless wire brush to keep it clean between passes.
I just had to comment this being one of the few skills in mechanical repairs I have not mastered!
No idea what the numbers pre weld were, but fascinated of aluminum welding as it is a specialty all in itself!
Bravo on a great video and a job well done!
Thank You!
So that aluminum is about 1/8” thick there’s no real reason to go get carried away with a preheat. I left it cold. I was afraid I would melt it down too much if I preheat it.
I will make a separate video on that
The repair looks good to me. New subscriber here. I have a Powermig 300 and weld some aluminum with it. I repaired a transfer case for my neighbor that had come loose and broke 3 or 4 mounting ears off. Saved them 1300$.
More production in 15 minutes than I have pushing papers all day. And it sounds like you've got your boy along for the rode. Cheers.
Hi Peter! Cool to hear you speak German! Thanks for sharing insider information on brand and technique! Great job on welding transmission!
Nice work!
Thanks!
*One could make a fortune repairing aluminum motorcycle engine cases while still mounted on bike.*
I used to watch you when you teamed up with that kid but somehow my "suggested videos" never showed you. I assumed you had given up YT. Good to see you back.
Great repair but if I got my gearbox back from a dealer service like that I'd be demanding a new gearbox
100% facts. I bet they didn't even tell the customer.
"Für Opa Reicht Das" Love it! I'm a grand dad and I drive a Ford. And I gotta say, it's enough for me.
Well said!
What did they use to take the bolt off? Thors hammer?
Impact gun most likely
My cousin does this. The transmission must be disassembled first to avoid any contamination, dirt or molten globs falling on the gears which would destroy the gears & bearings. Then you need to prep the casting surface so it is spotless. Plus that transmission prob had ATF like the ford M5OD. ATF is flammable. He custom machines adapters that use the OEM threaded plugs. He’s a true professional welder and master machinist.
Being a manual transmission It won't have automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in it but rather a light gear oil still flammable but I doubt as much
@@oltz_5871lots of manual trans use ATF including the M5OD R1 and R2, T-5, T45 and I'm sure plenty others...
exactly, its oil not gasoline ... and tig does not spark and throws glowing little bbs inside the transmission .... its fine, the guy already put 500 miles on it
I agree should be disassembled. You might get away with it but even one little piece of junk will cause premature failure of a gear or bearing. But then again I have seen some shadier shit last a long time lol.
To me it looks like you forgot one important thing, cleaning the casting by either grind a little or using a stainless steel brush. The result would have been even better.
Yeah, I would have thought that some surface prep would have made the welding easier.
I'd use an acetylene torch to both clean and preheat. To get the right temperature, reduce oxygen to put some soot on the aluminum, then heat with blue flame until soot burns off.
its already cleaned or it would have been drenched in oil . he possibly didnt want to get grindings in it
Amazing work
Thanks a lot 😊
Back in the early 80s I hit a rock that must have fallen off a truck that was out on the freeway late one night... It broke a chunk of about the same size off of the bottom corner of the C-4 transmission... A used one was like $600 from the junk yard, or something like $1,700 for a new one from Ford... So, beings I worked for a living with kids at home, I pulled the tranny, cleaned the wound several times with acetone, cut a piece of 1/4" plate aluminum to sort of fit the ragged opening without falling into the transmission and literally JB Welded it into/onto the hole.... For the 4 hours of labor, the price of the JB Weld, and the acetone, that patch never showed a sign of dampness or weeping for the rest of the time I owned that car (about 6 years)... I also used Epoxy to repair the casing after a Kohler engine threw a rod out the side of it on a lawn tractor back in the day... all 3 pieces of the casing landed on the floorboard after hitting my pants leg and work boot.... Rebuilt that motor and epoxied the case back together, used it until the following spring until a guy traded me some carpenter shop equipment I could not pass on... A week later, I sold one of the saws I got in the trade and went up and bought a new 17hp lawn tractor... Funny how things work out sometimes...
Nice job. I did weld repairs like that for 23 years and am amazed that you got such a low amount of peppering considering you look to have done minimal amounts of prep to the base metal. I would have put air pressure in through the fill plug hole and die ground the broken metal surface and around it where my weld would actually contact and then also wire brushed the area thoroughly. That being said, I did notice that certain brands of parts use cast aluminum that is much easier to do a clean weld. I would assume that is due to the alloys used in the casting.
Thanks! That filler helps too!
Looks like a good job to me, aluminum can be tricky, especially on castings. If you don’t want the square end of the plug sticking out, you can get them with a hexagon hole to fit a hex-key. Neater finished appearance.
I have been preaching the Gospel of Zila and Rockmount for a couple years now. I bet that car dealer loves you.
I fixed it for the end user, the dealer gave him $600 and said: tough shit ….
@@ZILAwelds imagine that.
Very nice repair job done walk away and have a blessed day today 🙏
Thanks, you too!
Had shocks put in by a sears Auto shop, got home, less than two miles away, saw under the car one shock hanging loose, they over torqued the bolts and close to twisted them off. Cranked the impact gun to the max? No doubt.
Just rotated my tires, had to use a 3 foot breaker bar and jump on the bar with my 200 pounds, so, over 300 ft/lbs of torque, on aluminum wheels that are supposed to be 95. And supposedly a good tire shop. 😠
Why was the piece that was broken off/out not used for the repair ?
it was not 1 piece it was 7 or 8 pieces an 2 were missing ... and it would not have worked welding it all together n then somehow recut the treads .... it ws cracked thought he threads in 3 spots ..
Peter I wasn't judging the repair it turned out pretty good! Was just curious why the missing piece/pieces weren't used as you never mentioned it or how badly it was broken! sorry if it seemed if I implied otherwise.
no need to be sorry, i never filmed the broken pieces, i cant remember if i talked about it in part 2 of the video or not …. I have some in depth explanation in there
Why didn't you clean the outside of the transmission case first at the spot you were welding? I always heard a good welder spends a good amount of time preparing the area, like a painter.
Watch part 2
Two questions: 1. Are you going to get particles in the transmission from the welding? 2. Are you able to weld steel to aluminum? It looked like that drain plug is made out of steel.
Generally there is no spatter with TIG like there would be with MIG or stick, so there shouldn't be anything in the trans. No, you can't weld steel to aluminum.
Tig welding is “clean” no particles in the transmission
And no, other than explosion welding you cant join steel to aluminum. All parts were aluminum…..
Do you not have to clean the oxide from the aluminium castings to help the weld? Just wondering?
I just welded. The AC cleaning action takes care of the rest … it wasnt that dirty. Look at my video about oxides … that explains it pretty well, if you cant find it, let me know i will send a link
enjoy your videos - thanks for sharing
Im wondering why you didnt wipe down anything with acetone AND why you didnt use the tig arc to boil out the oil from the trans case before laying down rod ?....was it to show that your equipment can weld dirty or something else....would appreciate an answer for my own welding knowledge - thank you
Who said that he didn’t, the casting looked clean to me and even for alloy tig welding, there wasn’t much fume coming away. The lack of ‘smut’ after welding and before he wire brushed it makes me believe he did prep it first. JMHO.
@@sonofadutchman9315 JMHO - Peter is pretty thorough and I think if he cleaned and boiled out before welding he would have included in his video - its just a question that PETER should repond to.
It says drain on casing,so what was there ?
A factory drain plug
Just curious, for excessive heat and warping, would having the plug in it helped with heat?
Typically not …. The heat typically seizes the plug in the threads
I might have cleaned that base casting a lot to freshen the surface before TIGing to get better adhesion. But this isn’t a life or death weld. Just needs to hold fluid under minimal pressure. I might also have torched that casting and heated the base metal to 300 degrees or so before starting to weld.
Nice work.
Thanks!
Nice work, but was the original plug hanging down that far? Not surprising that it broke off, if it was.
There is a crossmember below that too
@@ZILAwelds gotcha
NPT. National Pipe Thread. Can be tapered or straight.
Why use a tapered plug as opposed to a stock setup ?
I didnt have a treaded bong that would fit the stock plug
@@ZILAwelds now that is good reason !
@@JAYJAYJAY53 I saw the factory drain plug ... and I saw 5 of the 7 pieces that broke out around it .... most of them cracked through the threads ... it was "unfixable" .... well we all know nothing is unfixable ... but the amount of effort ... putting all the tiny puzzle pieces back together and then fixing the treads and and and ... a bunch of aluminum shavings everywhere .... to weld a new bong in was the easiest way and a clean way too .... and I only stock NPT (pipe thread half couplings (bongs) from 1/8" to 2" ... so I went to my bin, .... well my bin was MIA ... so I ordered these 2 of amazon to get the job done ....
@@ZILAwelds I was serious. There are so many work arounds . Many get all worked up if it isn’t an OEM part .
@@JAYJAYJAY53 I understand this year was more of a salvage operation
Nice job Pete, I hope all is well. Hope to catch up with you soon. Kids are getting huge
i would still touch up on the area where the black spots are. Could be the weakest point and the thinnest area of the tig weld, could be the weakest point fail and leak after a while.
NPT, National Pipe Thread. NPT-T National Pipe Thread Tapered.
Thanks
What about the square hex head plug?
So how was that hole made without the bits going into the box?
Typically most transmissions have the drain plug on the bottom.
As the guy overtightened it pieces fell on the floor.
Since it was easier for me to weld the transmission the way you see it in the video, i simply turned the transmission upside down, rather than me welding upside down
Was it just snapped off then whilst they were undoing a stuck plug? And who paid for the box removal?? The dealer or the customer. Castings often break with over tightened taper plug.
I believe it broke off after the drain the oil and they tightened the plug probably with an impact gun
new to the channel, thought you were going to JBWeld the hole for a minute...
Not anytime soon …. I do a lot of aluminum welding … pontoon boat coming next
@@ZILAwelds I'm also into boats, have a wood one I;m busy building but parked as I have to go for some serious surgery.
Great repair. Doesn't look pretty but that was a difficult repair and you've turned it to gold. 👍
Thanks 👍
What about doing that with a 3,000 degrees torch and a aluminium welding stick would it work right?
How are you so sure that no fragment of the damage had fallen into the gearbox without opening it?
watch part 2, it explains it
Clean your work?
Before or after?
@@ZILAwelds before get ss wire brush and use it just for aluminum.
A++ nice job. You knew what you were doing. You saved an elderly mans hemorhoids! Very nice tig alumamag fillet weld. Very impressed you got it to stick! You saved him thousands of dollars on a new trans.ission. g ood job!
Nice job
Could you have stick welded this with those aluminum rods you’ve shown on your channel previously?
I doubt it … i am not that good
Travis could have done it probably
Aluminum stick is nasty stuff to weld with, but it works on really contaminated metal way better than MIG or TIG.
Really fantastic work!!
Thanks a lot!
You might get the idea that you can just get in there and weld that in without cleaning the area. I use heat and acetone to get it clean when you are working an area that has grease or oil.
Fixed Or Repaired Daily
Nice work...saved someone a lot of trouble maybe...
Hope so!
Repair looks great. Did you use any heat dam to protect the RTV sealant at the case seam just in front of the weld. Had a garage my whole career and the number of oil pan and transmission pan leaks we saw over the years caused by exhaust heat help put my kids thru school
The heat didn’t put was not as massive as you might think
The Aluminum sucks it out pretty good distributed through the whole case. It’s not all piling up just in that area where I’m welding.
The short answer no I took some breaks in between the welds felt it with my bare hands. I don’t think that there is a problem burning the silicone.
great repair, but whatever the guy hit out on the road will probably be hit again, now that the repair sits lower than stock. That's just the way it is, right?
The technician at the dealership tried to install the drain plug with an impact gun. He didn’t run over anything.
@@ZILAwelds What did the dealership do? This isn't an acceptable resolution for a dealership mistake.
@@papapsych2746I read in another comment the dealer gave the customer 600 bucks and basically said leave.
geez how much does that welder cost
a lot .... you could so that with a welder 1/2 the price ... but this one was handy and set up
Ford in australia fix or repair daily
Why did you not clean your casting before welding.?
I didn’t want the chips from the dye grinder to fall inside the transmission. Besides, the crack was “clean“ there was no oil or no surface contamination in the crack area.
Well done
Er fuhr mit dem Ford fort und kam mit der Bahn zurück. 😉
Er fuhr Ford und kam nie wieder 😁
Halten besser als alles aktuelle bei VW und bmw
You have my matching bar stool under your machine! No lie! I use mine at my work bench. Funny 😂😂😂
That is funny
@@ZILAwelds 👍
JB Weld would have worked fine!
It didn't need a drain plug, either, just a patch. Cover the hole with a plate & in the future, drain it through the tailshaft hole.
Your fix did look nice, though. More than a Mustang deserves.
Great tip!
Oh, ya...as long as there is a plug, make sure it has a magnetic probe!
to check on internal wear when changing the oil.
You should use a magnetic plug
Great repair!!!
Thanks
It would have been nice if you would have used a filter on the camera so that we could have watched the process to compare the weld with at the end. Thanks for the video.
Next time
Odd to think how the dealership broke it. I've done a couple of manual drain and refill and didn't find the drain part to be a thing. Refill is a different story.
Stainless brush only for aluminum weld no contamination
Very tidy job indeed !
What type of filler material ?
Cobalt
Rockmount Neptune tig repair alloy
@@ZILAwelds That one....I never seen here in Europe, seems to be a rod with secret chemistry, high on magnesium.
That looks like a China-made Getreg MT82 six speed. They have quite a few issues, they all seem to have thrust bearing issues, and the guys making a lot of power break the welds on the 3rd gear. They are quite notchy also, which is probably why the owner took it to the dealer for a fluid change. Ford should have used the TR6060 transmission but they got cheap.
Really cool repair, but I would have tacked it in, and then flipped it and welded it the rest of the way upside down. I would have put the plug in there before you hit it with the wire brush also. Nevertheless if I'm honest with myself, I'd have been the one to cause the issue and not fix it lol. I really want to get into Tig but man is it a steep cost to entry.
Check out Primeweld equipment. Reasonable price and great US based warranty and service.
Why does my guy speak both languages so fluently? Sounds great.
Well, lived here for 20 years lived over there for 26+ years
Nice job!!
Thanks!
Great job.
Thanks!
Nice job.
Thanks!
nice job ,, i bet you live in wisconsin?
@@harryw9598 how do you figure?
Nice Tig welding.
Thanks 👍
Well done, Peter! Using that Rockmount Neptune filler rod?
Yes
Damn Peter! You got so many welding machines you are having to use chairs as welding carts. Lol
What’s the welder just to the back left of the 251? Looks like it has an independent wire feeder on it. Also looks like a Stel machine.
Its a stel s400 with f40 feeder …. Its awesome
No cleaning on the housing prior to welding 🤔
I prefer not to have the grinding dust inside the transmission. The crack surface appeared visually nice and clean.
@@ZILAwelds understandable 👍
Beau travail ! Personnellement je me serai arrangé pour que le bouchon de vidange, ne dépasse pas du bossage plat de fonderie, qui est à coté.
why does tig take forever to weld an inch? let her weld.
Ford dealer can sell that as a brand new transmission
Instead of making a hole in the casing why not just build up the area with weld to make it thicker then drill and tap it for a plug?
because this was faster, easier, cheaper and less shavings in the transmission
Hex or hexagonal has six sides. A square has four sides.
Good catch, shows you how tired i was
JB weld with metal filings will fix 1:15 it
IDK, not an expert, but I’d trust it.
Dachte ich schon bei diesem "schönen" Englisch einen Deutschen oder Öst. Hintergrund. Super informative Videos!
Kölner. 😁
Vielen Dank!
Bit of tyre lube would have helped no end.
Take it apart and clean it up bevel the weld area weld it clean it all up reassemble
Weld done!
Billy Lane would have cleaned it up to the point you couldn’t tell where the casting ended and the weld started.
Well , that transmission is a surprise because you have no idea if it already has debris inside.
Well, you see it on my bench “upside down” it broke out will (presumably) all the metal pieces and the original drain plug falling on the floor
At least that is what i gathered from what the customer told me and the pieces he showed me …. 🤷♂️
That is also the reason why i chose to not “clean it” with a die grinder or something ….
Even though a small aluminum piece or 2 is not necessarily a death sentence for a manual transmission with hardened steel gears ….
You forgot to state how the transmission housing casting was damaged like that with a large hole in it??!!!
watch part 2 - I explain it all
Awhile back, someone would charge me 700 for a similar fix on a radiator, then i decided to buy a new one for 300.
Why are you putting the drain on the top?
when you play the video on your TV do a hand stand when you watch it .... then your perspective is alined again .... LOL ....
Wow all that fancy welding equipment and zero prepwork to that dirty cast aluminium. 😮
It was “clean” aluminum no need to prep and put more dirt inside
@@ZILAweldswhat are you talking about, we can all see the oxidation on that gearbox housing. And when it's a part that have been in contact with oil you should heat it up and burn away the oil. If you are afraid of a bit of aluminium dust inside the gearbox use your vacuum cleaner or compressed air inside the gearbox so you have air leaving the hole so nothing gets in. But a bit of dust from a wirewheel will not harm the gearbox just do a tight oil change.
I can definitely see pinholes in your weld.
Very good
Thanks
good enough to hold oil =)
repair under 10 $
good job sir
dont forget you need 1000 $ welding machine 😅
Well, and the years of experience to do it
@@ZILAwelds
yes 💪
@@ZILAwelds The electricity is a cost too. The iron brush. You might need a grinder or a file if you want to make it look like the original. Not sure if bits of shard fall in or if there is any consequence to it accidentally falling inside. You might need a magnetic drain screw. Definitely not a DIY.
@@darkcloud5830 doable through …. Not a project that you tackle in week one …. But not impossible
Can't believe this guy paid under ten dollars for that welding machine.
Wieso macht jemand absichtlich ein Loch in ein Getriebe, um der YT-Gemeinde anschließend zu demonstieren, was man doch für ein toller Typ ist?
super oder ?
Vince that does a lot of the welding from Deboss Garage Rich won't like this video. He absolutely hates all the contaminated aluminum welding he's already asked to do! This might give Rich more ideas 😂
Very nice job though.
Right on
Didn't realize the trans was upside down until the end😂😂😂
Was about to say 🤣 wouldn't it be better to have it on bottom to fill up better
Ok good I wasn't the only one who was confused for a moment.
How would you unless you have changed your own oil in a standard transmission.