How to fix Intex Saltwater Low Salt Error 91
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2016
- If you have an Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System, you have probably run across Error 91 - the "low salt" error. And you probably added salt to the pool but the error didn't go away. It is more rare to actually have low salt (unless you lost a lot of water from the pool and replaced it with fresh water). More likely the error is caused by mineral buildup on the membrane. Here is a quick, easy, and inexpensive fix!
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This immediately fixed my issue - thanks!!!
I wish I had seen your video before I made our pool taste like the Dead Sea! Thanks, my element is soaking in vinegar as I type.... and now I am off to drain the pool to make room for clean water!
So I had this issue and tried the muriatic acid vinegar etc. I finally bought 2 new salt cells from intex for about $80. That did the trick.
glad you were able to fix it. I've never had mine fail and need to be replaced, I've always been able to clean them
I read the troubleshooting section of the manual after adding salt, cleaning the cell with vinegar, testing the water myself and at the pool store. The connection to the cell was a little loose. After I unplugged it and reseated it started to work. (Seems like all of the generator connections are fool proof and only fit one way this electrical connection is not, goes two ways). Seems to be producing chlorine by the movement around the cell and no more error code for now 😃
I was having the same trouble and after reading your comment I went out and pulled it all apart (after cleaning the sell) re-seated it and it is working like new!
Okay, the cell is fine. How do I rig the salt sensing bit to tell the microcontroller we're good and to enable electrolysis? It puts out 12.5V at .5 A, so I need a 6.5W resistor. Salty water's resistance is quite high... so I need to replicate that in a fixed resistive load.
Awesome 👍😊
You totally rock! Trying this now!
thanks!
Thank you !
There was a HUGE amount of white built.
that's what we always experience. Our water is pretty alkaline where I live and those cells seem to accumulate the minerals quickly
Thank you for a short and informative video. Unfortunately, my membranes are clean and even after soaking them in vinegar, the 91 code keeps coming on, making the unit to shut down. This seems to be a frequent problem with this system, simply a mall function. I am now requesting replacement parts or a new system, lets see what happens.
that's unfortunate that you're having that issue - mine happened frequently but 100% of the time it was buildup on the membranes. I hope they send you a replacement unit. Let us know what happens.
maybe you saw it in another comment, but try switching the polarity on the plates. I found that if it's backwards the low salt code 91 happens no matter what.
@@akunog2708 thank for that tip. It happen to help me as I too am now getting the dreaded 91 code. Salt levels were at 3200 and asking for more? As per Manuel I added another 25 pounds from my size pool and still get the 91 code so I did the flip of a plug and it seems to be working.
Brush off the white built up as much as you can with a used toothbrush first. This will make the next step much faster because there will be less calcium to dissolve with acid. Add one cup of pool acid to three cups of water (not water to acid) and soak the titanium cell in the solution. This will take less than 5 minutes insteal of several hours in vinegar. vinegar is a very weak acid.
Once a week all you have to do is turn the plug over on the end of the salt plates. Reverses the polarity and will self clean it.
Interesting... I may try that, of course, I kind of like the idea of getting those 'hard" minerals out of the water and softening the water slowly rather than pumping them back into the water.
Just tried this after weeks of the pump telling me low salt and it is now pumping out the Chlorine!! Thank you both for the video and extra tip!!
I had the low salt alarm come on since I replaced my unit. All sensors are clean no build up. I flipped the plug to the generator and it worked. I assume that you could do this to the sensor or the generator plug. They must be the same polarity to work in harmony.
Ron Kuhlthau I Hope this is my problem. Thanks for sharing.
I will most definitely try this. How long do you keep it switched?
Have you had any issues with the LED lights on the Salt System? My system is working because I can see the green light on but the digits is super dimmed that I can barely see it
I haven't had any problems - I do keep my saltwater system under a "table" so it isn't exposed directly to the elements - don't know if that has helped keep my LED's working or I've just been lucky
You can also use silicon spray and spray it with that, instead of petroleum jelly, if you have it at home...
good tip!
Hi, thanks for video about this.
I noticed you mentioned solar heating - do you have a video on that?
I think I filmed some footage but never edited it together. Basically what I did was ran PVC that I painted black down a long run exposed to the sun with a valve that I could shut off. It wasn't true solar heating but it did slightly warm the water.
@@WJHandyDad thanks
I'm in Florida and was thinking of something similar with loops of black irrigation pipe on a fence. The details of valves and drains was what I was curious about - whether to hook in with the main circulation or whether to add a secondary pump just for that part.
I used the black irrigation pipe/tubing for my fill hose - ran it through 100ft before the pool to warm it. It worked very well if I let the water trickle in. Biggest problem was it would kink up very easily so I had to cut it and add some "90's" in several places.
@@WJHandyDad good info, thanks
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Very welcome, glad the video helped!
Thanks you for the vid,,, have this unit for over 4 years and never had an issue,,, been getting the low salt light on alot lately,,,I add salt,,,still comes on...hopefully this method works.
always works for me - we have enough minerals in our water that mine would clog every couple weeks
Took the element out,,,but it was clean,,,I did notice there was a little rust on the prong, so I cleaned it up with a wire bristle and gooped it with some dielectric grease. It works fine now.
awesome! You must have "soft water" where you live - our water is so hard the element just clogs up repeatedly
Hello hoping someone can help me I just got my Intex salt water system I added the salt let the pump run its 24 hrs did the salt test strip and its reading at 2910 my Intex pool says it needs to be at 3000 does anyone know about how much salt i should add to make it 3000 I dont want go over on it. Thanks in advance!!!
www.poolcalculator.com/
Has everything you need for your pool.
I finally just jumpered the cell to the 12 volt supply and haven't had a problem. Water is clear. The cell makes plenty of bubbles. Just manually pull the plug out of the cell when I don't want it working. It's a hack but it is working. Just couldn't find a place that had parts in stock and I've been trying to get it fixed for months with green water. The price of new ones has soared to where the cost isn't worth it, if you can find one. Most places are out of stock. BTW, my salt level is at 7000 ppm which is way high now because of the indicator light being on but as long as the cell makes chlorine I will leave it until it burns out. If I plug the cell in every other day it even self cleans so I don't have to pull it out and clean the salt off.
Hi can you give more details on how and where to jumper the cell to 12v? Thank you!
Gotta let us know
There are many youtube videos on how to do it. The salt cell wires are on one end of the circuit board and the 12v supply is on the other. Just move the two wires to the other side.
Too late brother. I already found a 12v sply on it. 2 wire nuts n rolling. Wasn't watching any videos. Just figured that out . Supplied both cells from rectifier. Thank you anyway.
Thinking of hacking the the thing and using a Arduino/ESP32 and a relay, to have wifi remote control of the unit, then the sky is the limit.. timer, schedules, current status of all the onboard LED's all via wifi. Will make a video If I go that route
If I leave my system in FP filter pump setting will it still produce chlorine?
the Saltwater system only "chlorinates" when it's working. Otherwise the water just goes through whatever filter you have
One question.. so this will constantly generate chlorine whether powered on or off? Will this over chlorinate?
the fix shown in the video is just limited to when you get a false low salt error due to buildup on the membrane. It doesn't change how often a working unit chlorinates
Yes it will over coordinate. Read your manual on how to switch to filter only.
I have the came model as you, mine stays on for a little while, 5-10 min the goes back to low salt, and its clean as a whistle, could it really be low salt?
It is always possible that you actually do have low salt. But I bet for every 100 times the low salt light has come on, 99 of them have been too much buildup on the membrane. Typical cause for actual low salt in my experience has been a partial drain and refill (whether intentional or accidental). Rather than dumping more salt, you should do a test strip to see if you really have low salt.
My green light comes on for a few seconds, then both LED's go out, followed by the green light a few seconds later. The only way to clear that state is to unplug from the mains, replug back in and start again... then the same happens again. Any ideas?
sorry, I never ran across that issue
@@WJHandyDad Oddly, I'm not the only one. At least two other people asked the exact same question on a website/blog. Unfortunately, nobody came up with a sensible solution. I think it has to be a fault on the control board, which sadly isn't available as a spare part.
Cracked it! It's what happens when there's insufficient salt, below the normal 'low salt' fault condition.
awesome!
Like everything about the video except the petroleum jelly assembly part. A lot of the o ring materials will swell and become unusable in a petroleum based lubricant. You can find plumber/faucet lubricants(in the plumbing section) at home depot or Lowe's which would be better suited. Otherwise great info.
you're not the first to mention not using petroleum jelly. What's funny is it's the owner's manual that said to use it on the seals. I'll have to look in the plumbing aisle now and see what alternatives would work better.
New development on that lubricant subject. I had a little container from danco and it worked great. I lost the container and replaced it with a product from oatey. The oatey stuff DID swell my seals where danco did not. Both sold as faucet grease. Plz beware.
I'm pretty sure the O rings are silicon based, rather than rubber, so petroleum jelly (or similar) works well and has no adverse reaction.
I have a cs15110 for about 5 yrs or so now. This is the first year I've had this false low salt reading. However, my cell is clean. no buildup at all, but I cleaned them in vinegar anyway just in case but still a low salt reading. What I notice is this, I used to be able to clearly see that chlorine was being made around the cell but that no longer seems to be true. How can I tell if the cell is working?
That's interesting. I don't have an answer for you. If I figure out something I'll let you know. Please do the same.
Will do. I ordered a new cell from Intex. $65 with shipping, didn't think that was terrible. According to the manual if it's not corroded it's probably bad so I'm going with that. If I get the new one and it's still reading low salt, I'll have to rewire to bypass the codes. Hoping that's the last resort though:-) I'll let you know.
Maria Meade did your hot wire job work
Did not have to, the part was truly bad. I ordered a new part for $65 and the pool has been crystal clear all summer! Sorry for not answering you sooner. I'm a happy camper for sure. We've had this pool since 2011 and this is the only thing besides the skimmer I've had to replace.
I've had really good luck with them lasting a long time too... biggest issue I'm seeing now is the metal pool supports are rusting from the saltwater.
It's still working. Yes 👍 (check my previous comment)
I have tried everything , I always clean my cells once every two weeks or so , so last time that I cleaned them , I noticed that the connection on my ECO was a little loose , but I cleaned and checked the connections and plugged it up , turned the system on and both green lights on the left side indicating that the system was working came on , I looked through the plastic receptacles and sure enough bubbles were forming indicating that the generator was indeed working . Three minutes later the low salt light came on and I again looked through the receptacles and NO bubbles ! I checked my salt level and was at about 2850 ppm so I adjusted to 3000 ppm , still got the low salt reading so I got my muliti meter out and reset the system and checked voltage , I have voltage until that light come on then there is nothing until you reset the system. I suspect there is an issue with the mother board.
same issue. not cells, not low salt but still have unit work for several minutes then low salt.
Me too
Same here.
Salt levels were at 3600 but got low salt light, shutdown..reversed plug* startup and fine for 30 mins or more and then high salt light..shutdown reversed plug* startup and then fine for a whole day. Timer shutdown and then had to rinse and repeat until recently.. Now its constantly low salt but it's now at 3400ppm werid
did you try switching the polarity? if the power is coming to the plate assembly backwards it will result in a code 91 low salt error, even though it can be assembled backwards just fine physically. Is a major design flaw on many levels.. First if polarity is an issue, the error code should exist for it.. and second just make one of the prongs slightly bigger please lol.. oh well, you live and you learn.
@@akunog2708 Polarity didn't have any effect. low salt either way.
Do I still need to add salt after this and what kind of timer did you have?
Typically it is a false "low salt" light so don't add salt unless you independently verify that it is actually low. I found in all the years of having one of those pools, it very rarely needed salt.
@@WJHandyDad I set the wires to get rid of the low salt light but now the light has came back on after I bypassed it so what now besides just adding salt.
I don't know what you mean by set the wires and bypassed it. I never had any problems with mine once I cleaned all the buildup off the plates.
@@WJHandyDad I cut the wires to the faulty low salt light but now the light has came back on with the wires being cut.
Disregard wrong video sorry.
I have the ECO 8110 model. I have cleaned it and checked the salt level. Still get the low salt error. Now what?
unfortunately I don't have an answer for you... I haven't run across that problem.
wayne astralla I found the wire diagram and began testing and found that it was the diode rectifier. Which turns ac into dc power then to the board. Working better than before now.
wayne astralla what ever happened with your generator
ua-cam.com/video/nAZaDgoS-_c/v-deo.html
I have the all in one sand filter, salt system from Intex. I get the error constantly now. I have cleaned the cell and the other cell between the pump and sand canister. Nothing. I get the error within a few mins of starting and then the system goes into sleep mode. I've had it for 3 yrs and have gone this regularly but now it won't clear. What's up?
Todd Anderson same here. Although I did do the above and the pump ran for 24hrs then I woke up with low salt and I think a crawldad got to my liner faster than expected water loss and going.
I have cleaned mine, just went and changed polarity... still coming up with the same error code. Have checked the salt levels and they are not low. At my witt's end! I was really hoping I had just messed up the polarity last time I cleaned it. 😪
yes, that would drive me crazy too... sorry, but I don't have any other answers. Sounds like something may have broken
@@WJHandyDad Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it! May just use chlorine tablets in a floater and run the pump-only until we replace next year!!!
I completely understand... literally just replaced both my sand filter and saltwater system - it was $450 for a combined unit!
My mom just put up her pool and put the salt in there and the salt pump is saying low salt and cut off what should she do?
check the salt level manually - if it's correct and the Intex machine doesn't start working you have a fault somewhere in the machine
the machine keeps beeping saying no water flow and no water goes to the cell. I don’t think it is making any choline. What should I do? many thanks
sounds like the water flow sensor is either stuck or broken
@@WJHandyDad The magnet in the flow sensor arm gets water in it, decomposes and then losses its magnetism. I used a Dremel on mine, removed the old one and fitted new from an old tablet speaker, with epoxy resin.
I have gone through 3 of these cheap intex chlorinators over the past 4 years. In none of the cases was there any buildup. In none of the cases did vinegar work. In none of the cases did stepping it up to muriatic acid did it work. In all cases I just bought another chlorinator. This year, the cost of the chlorinators has shot up 4x (wtf??), so I use chlorine pucks now.
I typically got about 2 to 3 years out of each chlorinator. I built a cover over mine because I think they did not like the direct sunlight nor exposure to rain. But yes, it is frustrating that none of the pool stuff (pool itself, filter, nor saltwater system) seem to last very long. My metal frames would all rust during the first season and crumble apart during the 2nd or 3rd season. If the pool itself didn't develop a leak first. LOL
@@WJHandyDad I git a fix for that, check my videos for the intex pool rusty poles video
I've done this and its still showing the code and my salt levels are perfect. What now?
don't know - it always worked for me. Sorry.
Allison Daughtry Did you ever come to a resolve? This is happening to us right now. Thanks.
@@Paw_Mama Try switching the polarity (ie, turn the plate assembly 180 degrees, or the plug into the plate assembly.) If they are mismatched it will go together just fine, but result in a code 91 low salt..
I have read all over that you do not need calcium in an above ground pool. ever since I have no calcium buildup in my chlorine generators.
I don't add calcium... we just have naturally "hard" water
Reversed the plug on the electrolysis cell as suggested and the code went away.
Tell me more...What is this and how do you do it?
Michelle Piche the screw on plug on the cell can be plugged reverse.
@@michellepiche5591 yes, it is able to be assembled backwards, and results in a low salt error if it is backwards. Either flip the plate assembly 180 degrees, or as D R said, flip the screw on plug.
I soaked mine in a white vinegar overnight and it definitely cleaned them. But now the low salt warning comes on within 5 minutes after turning it on.
it's possible that you actually have a low salt condition in the pool. I've also heard others mention a different malfunction that causes a false low salt warning. I'd start with those salt test strips to see if you're within the correct salt range. Good luck - I hope it's something easy!
@@WJHandyDad if anything I should have a high salt condition because when the low salt light first started coming on I'd been adding salt. I recently put in five 50 lb bags. before that I had been adding at least three to four 50 lb bags. More than what the pool called for. Lucky for me I've got a brand new salt chlorinator that I recently purchased I can use it next pool season. The one I've been using is 6 years old so it's been a good one.
I did that the first time I had low salt indicator. I kept adding salt until the pool was disgusting. And then I figured out that the plates get buildup on them and I ended up having to drain most of the pool and refill to get the salt back to normal. My city has very alkaline water with lots of minerals so my plates get gunked up pretty quickly. Good luck, I hope you figure yours out
Just a quick tip . Do not use anything petroleum based on and o rings for you pool. It will actually cause it to swell and actually will break down the material on the o ring .
I wonder why they say to use petroleum jelly on the o-rings then... it's in the owner's manual!
I know :/ I work at a pool store . We did an experiment. And we sell a non petroleum based lubricant! It's good stuff .
what about silicone spray?
Quicktip : change the vinegar to 1 part water and 1 part muriatic acid and your salt cell will be clean in under 3 minutes ;-)
Screw that. If you're in a hurry use CLR at least it's safe.
Muriatic acid 1 part and 4 parts water works better than vinegar in about an hour.
Water first then add acid
i pour muriatic acid directly and cleans it in 30 seconds
doesn't work
It’s not this I need to by pass the light
Mine is clean!!! And I keep getting that dam code! 😡
Did you check your salt levels
Yup! They are right where they need to be, the plates for the generator are perfectly clean. We just took it apart and moved the wires and now there are no issues! Its making the chlorine like it was supposed to do! This video helped alot! Even though we have a different model!
@@staciehorner4725 mine came back 2 days later
@@kevinobrien1057 mine did too! But only for a few secs and then it was good?????