Intex Chlorinator Error 91 Low Salt Fixed/Nulled Out by an Electrical Engineer
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- These chlorinators are designed to last about 2 years and generally fail in the 3rd season of use. The potentiometer I use is a 10k pot. I forgot to add this.
Before closing up this unit, I did apply hot glue to the the knob of the potentiometer to make sure it would not move. The method I show here allows all the functionality of the system including the self clean mode which is important for keeping the erosion of the plates even, plus keeping them clean. The most important function of this controller is to switch the polarity of the plates so that the plates do not become completely oxidized causing a high resistance between the plates, which mean no more chlorine generation. I also sanded my plates with 60 grit sandpaper. It is important to make sure that the plates are bare and free from debri caused by electroplating. So, it is important to sand in-between the plates once in a while. Using vinegar alone is not enough!!!!!!
Thanks for watching!!
Excellent coverage of the issue and a Real solution to get these things working.
I'm a retired Mechanic/Technician/ Business owner and I've seen enough B.S. Bypass/Modifications people were calling Fixes to make me sick. The - Don't know what Broke but this makes it go again Crowd.
If it will make enough Chlorine by Bypassing the system then it is clear the problem in in the circuitry, not the plates.
You are absolutely the only person I have found that took the time to Deep Dive and find the culprit, then resolve the issue with a viable replacement circuit.
I'll dig out my my old unit over the winter and see if I can replicate this to get it working again. Never hurts to have a backup unit.
Thank You Jered!
😊
Many thanks! I've just bring back to life my ECO 6220.
The card is quite similar, and i've sent 1v directely to the second camparator (pin7) with à 10K multi round pot 👍
I run two of these at a time on my in ground 28k gallon pool. I always have trouble with these at about year 2 and so at any given time I have an old broken one and a new working one and then a parts one that is broken.
When my newest one (2 years old) went to low salt error, I went to wire the pot but must have shorted it out - it has a different board with smaller chips and all on top as now I’m getting all high salt code.
I kept the old unit (from 6 years ago with low salt error too) to try to wire a pot to the board like this but its layout is too is different and didn’t have the 5v available in the same way. I decided to replace the new unit with an old board and then go research where to get the 1 -1.4v …but now the new unit with the old pcb just works with zero issues.
I watch for open box ones on Amazon and count on just buying one every other year.
thx for showing all trick abd tips, thx for spending your time to fix that expensive gizmo
My motherboard was completely different but luckily because you said pin 1 was 4 pins over from the ground I was able to identify the correct pin even though my boards layout was different. The circuit where you picked up the voltage was also outputing 14v not 5v but that wasn't an issue, I did find 1v was too much on mine and made it set off the high salt alarm so I had to reduce it to 0.25mv. After finding the right voltage it has been working fine for hours, thanks for the help.
😊👍
Thanks very much my friend for the video! I perform the same repair on my Intex 5110 this evening with a similar potentiometer and had great results. The soldering on the board is not too bad so long as you have a soldering pen with a nice point on it. However after I was done, mine was a little different from yours in results. Instead of around 1 volt I had to set a very precise .78 volts and that was while running although I don't know why that would make a difference. But nonetheless everything is looking promising and it wouldn't have been possible without your help. Thanks ever so much!
🎉thank you so much! Now with new post is ok! Top!
The biggest issue and the failure point with any of these chlorine generators are the electrodes. The chlorine generating electrodes are not just metal electrodes. They are coated with a MMO, mixed metal oxides. The MMO coating is a mixture of metal oxides. Oxygen rather than chlorine generation is favored with common metal electrodes. Ruthenium oxide with other conductive oxides like manganese oxides are coated are coated on titanium metal creating an electrode that favors chlorine production. The ruthenium is a catalyst that lower the voltage necessary to produce chlorine from dilute salt water. If you look at the pool chlorine generators that are out there the price varies from the Intex at $200 to generators that run from $400 to $2500. There may be some cost difference having to do with the power supply but the majority of the cost difference has to do with how long the MMO cell last. Hayward finally published an estimate on how much chlorine their cell will produce in their life time. If you plug in the number, for the cost of their new units, purchasing chemical chlorine at the best price is about the same. If their cell fails after 3 years you would save money of the second cell. None these calculation take into account the power needed to generate the chlorine. I don’t think that is a huge factor but it is there. A new MMO electrode for an Intex is ~$135 last time I checked. A totally new unit is about $200. I know I put more chlorine in my pool than that every year. I called Intex and they said their units last about 8 months. That means nothing because how long they last depends on how many hours the unit runs. I a little different in that I have my Intex hooked up to a 233,000 gallon pool. Not there 15,000 pool. I did this because it was the least expensive way to go. We don’t have a lot of usage so I expect our chlorine needs are relatively low. I am logging the hours of chlorine generation so I can see how long their cell will last.
What I am building up to has to do with any fix to correct high or low chlorine error messages. Based on your work the unit will give and error if the current draw is to high (high salt) or the resistance of the water is low (high resistance, low current). Aside from the high salt or high cell temperature the current will go up if the MMO coating loss reached the point where you getting close to the titanium metal. That would decrease the resistance across the electrodes and pull more current. Giving a high salt error. When it is an indication of the MMO thickness is low. A low salt error, as you have shown, may just be something like a buildup of calcium on the titanium electrode or titanium can build up an oxide layer which increases its resistance. AKA low salt.
This is the problem with any fix including just hooking the electrodes up to a 12vdc power supply. Without the MMO coating chances are you are producing more oxygen than chlorine at the electrode. I would strongly suggest with any fix the chlorine production be checked over time. Just because bubbles are being produced there is no reason to believe it is all chlorine.
I do have some question for you but it is in another comment.
You, sir, are 100% correct! I played around with this myself, and the only way to resolve low salt errors is to replace the unit or the cells. I was throwing around the idea of buying ruthenium powder and electroplate it to old cells. Do you think this would work?
@@acehigh4636 There are patents and research papers that would help with getting a starting formulation for a coating of this type. Ruthenium powder will not work. . If I remember the formulations contain some where around 10% ruthenium oxide (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruthenium(IV)_oxide). My advice would be not to try because of the expense and effort to develop the formulation and process to make a one off electrode. When my Intex electrodes go bad, today the replacement electrodes are $127. A new Intex unit on amazon is $181. I think for my low use 30 foot, 26,000 pool I expect 2 years electrode life. That is about $90/yr for chlorine. What a deal. Amazon also has listed a chlorinating cell for $119. The manufacture says it will put out 25 grams of Cl/day. That is twice the output of the Intex unit. Warning, their power and voltages stated for the unit indicate they are running the unit at about at less than half that 25 grams amount. They also use titanium and MMO electrodes so if you have a calcium build up reversing the electrodes may help remove the calcium but you will not be generating much chlorine during the regeneration cycle. In summary, don't bother to make your own electrodes for cost reasons and just purchase the replacement electrodes or a new unit if your power supply has seen better days. I love to tinker so I hope you understand how hard it is for me to make these recommendation.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I bought used unit which suppose to have error 91, but it works good. I've added voltage meter to know exact reading of build in sensor .
👍
Just curious, what was that voltage?
@@JeredAdams about 0.9V @ 1.6g/l od NaCl. IT start working @ 0.6-0.7V . At 3g/l it was about 1.7V and triggers high salt error
@@woocashewski Thank you for this very good information!
@@JeredAdams next challenge is to control it using esp2866 - to get filter pump and chlorinator working in a schedule, taking into account voltages from this sensor, it will be a shame not to get it as analog input and not reading NaCl level by esp...
You know, it’s awesome you spent a day figuring this POS out. I had a 1K pot lying around, so I decided to give this a go. My board looks different than yours, but it is most likely the same functional schematic. The big difference was that my comparitor wanted .05V for pin 1. Same 5V source though. I’m no engineer, so I could have hit the wrong chip, but varying the voltage at that spot could cause low or high salt errors, so I’m guessing I was in the right spot. Long story longer, thanks for posting this. Running error free, and no “hot wire” mod required.
What board are you working with? I'm trying to figure out a newer 26679 board.
26679 is the one I have. If you’re reading that number in the center of the board (orient you without a pic), I used the solid state component at the bottom bent inward to grab 5V. And then directly under the 26679 text is a comparitor (sp?) circuit. I ran the center leg of my 1k pot to the bottom right pin (assuming pin 1) of that 8 pin chip. I used the main ground on the board off to the left. I had to dial the pot basically all the way down to get rid of the low salt error. Anything in the tenth of a volt or higher gave me the high salt error.
I do honor the work you did in understanding the Circuit. However like everybody else you are fighting symptoms rather than the root cause, which imho is the degradation of the electrode over time.
I have been using the same electrode in the 12gr Version of the Chlorinator for almost 3 years until Error 91 popped up some weeks ago. At first I tried reviving it by changing polarization as everybody else did, which helped for some hours. Ultimately I solved the problem by changing both electrodes. Since then I can see and measure that more Chlorine is produced and the Error disappeared.
Things to consider: Intex is charing a freaking amount on spare parts and the electrode is no exception. But I think it actually really degrades and therefore must be replaced from time to time. When fixing the Error it will continue to work. In the best case it will just produce less Chlorine in the worst no chlorine at all or just some other Gases (H + O?).
I am just wondering, why did the board stop working, can you replace the chip on the board instead of adding the pot-meter?
I completed the setup like you instructed. Thank you for this! When I try to set the voltage on the potentiometer, the current is jumping around. The chlorinator starts and then throws a high salt code. I bought the cheapest POT I could find on amazon. Could it be the pot? Verified that I"m getting 5 volts in . THanks in advance.
Sounds like something is connected incorrectly. I would need to see a picture or something.
grazie per il video, molto interessante. Come ho capito la misurazione avviene tra le due unità e se provo a saldare semplicemente due fili di ferro verso il centro all'interno del cilindro trasparente, verso il sensore di flusso per capirci, in modo da diminuire la resistenza, potrebbe funzionare???
No, that won't work. It will think you have too much salt.
Hello
Tell me, is it difficult in 26668 to solder wires to the on (start) button of the chlorine generator?
The purpose is to turn on the chlorine generator remotely, through a relay with a dry contact and a pulse push.
thank you
Don't waste your time, replace the cell or the unit.
hello was wondering what exact potentiometer you used most i have seen are in ohms I am not an electrical person so just wanted to get it right thank you for the video and the help thats cool !!
I am using a 10k ohm potentiometer. 🙂
Does anyone know the voltage for the 5220 model?
Hello, what is the value of the potentiometer
Hello @JeredAdams,
Thank you very much for this contribution.
I am facing the same issue, and I would also like to address it in the way you presented.
However, when I looked at my printed circuit board, it is slightly different from yours.
To avoid making any mistakes, I would like to know if you would be willing to help me decipher my "puzzle" with the circuit.
Best regards,
Domen
If you want, you can send me a picture of your board. I can try and help via email. 1jeredadams@gmail.com Or, you can make a video and send me the link.
Hi, have you actually measured the voltage at both the cells while it is operational. My ECO5230 has been displaying the low salt code. I measured the voltages and got about 11v on the large cell and around 4v on the smaller if the two. The 11v cell was only pulling about 1A even when i disconnected the system connection and tried a direct 12v DC supply. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance.👍
I have not measured the voltages while it was running. Didn't need to. However, I am not sure what you are asking. I did make a follow up vid to this one. Not sure if it will be any more helpful though.
Mine is throwing the code. I have 11.5 volts on larger cell and 4.1 on smaller. Confused on why this thing isn't working...
Will 1.1v be a big difference?
I think I'll spend the 163.00 and just buy new! These things are obviously not meant to last very long. If I get 2 years out of it I still feel ok about it because it is still cheaper than buying chlorine!
If you don't mind, I haven't disassembled the unit, yet, but testing voltage at the terminals before the plates; I get right at 15 for the smaller plate and only 13.5 ish at the larger plate. What would be the expected voltage at each end? Would this indicate a circuitry problem more so than an electrode problem? Should I test voltage directly on the plates itself? My unit doesn't make a lot of bubbles when I get it to run for the short time before the error code.
The voltage sounds fine. If you rotate the plugs to the electrodes 180 deg, does it stay on longer?
It ran that way a couple of hours then errored out. So I put it back to normal poles and it ran for a whole 7 hour cycle. Started to see a little whitish color on plates, as if doing something, but no bubbling like I see in many videos. Going to try and run another cycle overnight then check chlorine levels in morning to see if it raises.@@JeredAdams
@@ruthlessrebel9139
Just to make sure, you do have enough salt in the pool, correct?
3076 ppm last test. Has been pretty constant for past few months. No rain to overflow it or change water levels. If anything, water is a little low. A new generator is only $150 online. Might waste the money If I can't figure this out. Maybe damaged the plates during a cleaning or 2. Maybe vinegar or acid bath was to strong.
It is just at the point of frustration. $150 worth.@@JeredAdams
Sorry if this double posts, but don't see my previous reply. showing just over 3000 ppm. No rain or anything in months so unlikely I had overflow for dilution. I will add 80lbs and see what happens. Worst case, drain a little water. @@JeredAdams
Thank you so much for doing the work on this and breaking it down for us. I'm an AV electrical tech, so I know just enough to know that the other "fixes" were wrong, but not enough to know why or how to do the job properly. This looks easily doable for anyone with a decent soldering iron and a basic voltmeter. Would you be able to show us how you go about sanding the plates? I don't know much about the whole chlorine/electrode generation stuff, and have been worried about damaging the coating on the plates, so sanding sounds scary.
I made a second video about this. You may want to check it out first. That being said, I did sand my plates, but, later I found out that it will definitely remove the special coating that allows for chlorine generation. So, I don't recommend sanding the plates anymore. I should make another video explaining the special coating, but I just don't have time for this subject anymore. The plates are designed to fail after 1.5 seasons.
Thank you for the update. Much appreciated.
There should be some mention about how touchy the pot is at the desired set point, ~1.4V (I have the newer board as in the pinned comment). A bit difficult to set properly. I think I will figure out a circuit to replace the lone potentiometer, something to provide a range of 0.8V to 1.8V across the potentiometer dial, so that its not so sensitivity to adjustment, and reduce drift issues (I am also an EE). But, this mod is working for me to get through the season with .
I use mine mainly to keep my salt levels under control (above ground pool), as I was surprised at how quickly they can get too high just from chemicals, sweat, etc. I originally started with a floating solar salt chlorinator that was terrific. Kept my salt levels under control and provided me about 1/3 of my chlorine requirements. It lasted for 3 years until it broke and unfortunately, the manufacturer of it stopped making it. Hence, now, using the Intex unit. I like to keep my salt levels as low as possible because salt is not good for an above ground pool. The unit was working all the way down to 1600ppm.
Hello. I'm using a voltage converter 5v input to 1,2v output. The + is soldered to the comparator, as indicated by Jared.
The error is gone but also the bubbles. There is no power in the terminal. Everything works but there's no power to the cell.
Nice job... very well done. As you were explaining that the generator senses the voltage that passes through the water and moving them closer would solve the problem. If I were to wrap a copper wire on the smaller electrode and extend it towards the bigger electrode following the sense of the water flow.... wouldn't this trick the system registering a higher voltage without having to modify the electronics?
It might work, but the copper is going to dissolve quickly due to the electrolysis process. It would be better to use a piece of stainless steel. That being said, I wouldn't recommend it.
hi, can I have the reference of your pot 10k please?
thanks
What ohm potentiometer
Great video and you EE incite is a great help.
I purchased an Intex chlorinator and it gave me a high salt error after about two weeks of usage. After cleaning the electrodes with citric acid (works much better that vinegar) nothing changed. I sent it back and the new one works fine (high salt, I don’t think so). I wanted to take the unit apart to see what was inside but did not because of the warrantee. You video really was a help. Do you have any information on the voltage delivered to the electrodes? For 12 grams/hr chlorine production I think the current needed is around 5-6 amp/hours. It would be nice to know what voltage they are using to get that much current through the electrodes and water. I would be very simple to use just a timer and cheap power supply if the voltage and current output of the unit where known.
The safest way to power one if these units if have an isolating transformer in the circuit. Otherwise, everything depends on the ground default working. Does Intex have a transformer? Any idea what they are using for a power supply to bring the voltage down?
I tried to build my own unit using graphite electrodes and a constant current power supply. I was able to generate some chlorine at the 3000 ppm salt lever but most of it was oxygen. In the end very little chlorine was produced when there was a flow of water. The graphite also stated to flake off, a known problem but I thought I would give it a try. Have you noticed a decrease in chlorine production when you sanded the electrodes, removed the MMO coating?
Thank you for your very informative comments! The voltage is 12vdc being applied to the electrodes via a step down transformer. So, the power consumption is very low. There are no filters between the 12v and the output. It is just a straight up, what I would call, dirty DC being applied to the electrodes. No smoothing capacitors. As for the chlorine, I have not noticed any degradation of chlorine being generated in the pool after sanding the electrodes. I can tell when the salt level is low as algae will start to grow, and the salt taste is not as strong. Once I add the correct amount of salt, the algae disappears. As for your idea of adding your own power supply and timer, this is a good idea and works fine as long as you switch the polarity of the positive and negative every half cycle of the time set on the timer, else your electrodes will not evenly wear. In other words, one electrode will slowly disappear while the others grows thicker. So to double the lifespan of the electrodes, the polarity needs to be switched evenly over time of use. The Intex chlorinator does this automatically. If the timer is set to 8 hours then, 4hrs run time at each polarity needs to be maintained. If not, one electrode will plate to the other. Hope this helps!
The intex units use a transformer. The 110 goes straight in. 12? vac out put, didn't measure goes through a bridge rectifier to get 12 vdc. This is the electrode power. There are two other voltages for the control power. The transformer does the power isolation. The gfi is in case of water causing a leak. Electricity, pool, salt, kids.
Per cortesia puoi mettere il link al corretto potenziometro da acquistare, grazie.
I don't have a link but it is a 10k pot.
do you know what material used is for plates?
It is titanium coated with a special compound that allows for chlorine to be made when electrolysis happens. The coating wears off after about 1.5 seasons of use.
Hi Jered I sent you a couple of pictures of a 5110 board I have that is throwing the 91 code. It is different than the ones posted here. Do you think you could find the places to solder the wires to. Thanks, John
There's only one way to find out 😊Email me the photos and lets see.
@@JeredAdams Hi Jered, I did email them to you earlier to the email above.
@@82HALO-RANGER
That's interesting, I never got them.
@@JeredAdams ok I'll resend them
ok sent them from my phone and laptop. Hope you get them this time
Off the subject, but do you know how to bypass the low flow system?
Great video!
You can replace the flow switch or if you want to bypass it, just cut the flow switch cable and tie both wires together, then plug it back into the chlorinator.
Hi there. I contacted you on your email about more details about this setup. I have a different model and my pcb looks a little different. I explained a lot in thr email. Thanks.
I happen to have the ECO6110, and you have the ECO5110. Pins and things on the back are very different. I am having the Low Salt warning also, tried all the things that, of course, you said if they work, it will not last long. I have all the things to do the job but now, because of the differences, not sure what to solder where. Pete
If you want, you could send me a picture and I can see if I can tell what is going on from that. My email is in the description of the vid.
@@JeredAdams I also have the ECO6110 and would be interested in this too. If
@@Amishman1
It would be easier if I had the unit. Wish I could help more.
I've bought another one for spares and they send me 6220 - so i'm interested too. Maybe tomorrow ill send you detailed pictures, maybe you fugure it out
@@pr7757
If you have a look at the pinned comment, it might help you.
Also, can you share a plan?
I don't have time to deal with this anymore. POT size is in the description.
From my research on these Intex SWG, the salt sensing is just current flow to the primary electrodes (close spacing) and the other is the “E.C.O.” system only.
Wear of the electrodes precious metal coating, failure of power supply capacitors, failure of bridge rectifier diode, or reduction in output from the transformer can all cause a reduction in sensed current and efficiency of the cell.
Your bypass just gives a false current sensing to the MCU but doesn’t fix the efficiency issue. A real solution is to feed the primary electrodes with a constant current source.
Do you still sell your hydrogen generators?
I can and I do have some left over.
Ho fatto come spiegato ora con 1 volt sul piedino mi da sempre high salt !!! Help
Turn the voltage down a bit and see if it goes away. Try maybe 0.75v
Purtroppo non funziona… con 0,4 volt (il minimo per il reostato) da high… e se metro a 0 da low… peccato!
@@lucblutube I would need to have a look at it. It seems there is another problem. You may be able to get a lower voltage if you get a 20k potentiometer. However, I am not exactly sure of what you are saying do to our language barrier. Are you saying that no matter what you get, high salt? But without the potentiometer you get low salt?
Yes you understand good
Thanks
How am I supposed to do all the stuff you did? Not very helpful for average person
Can I send you my Blueworks chlorinator and get you to fix it? I would pay!
What is wrong with it?
@@JeredAdams it works for a few minutes but cuts out and displays the low salt LED even though the salt level is fine. It will generate chlorine for a few minutes by unplugging the flow switch and plugging back in but then stops producing chlorine and displays low salt.
@@arkmay1
Are you able to send the complete unit with salt cell? If so, you can send it to me and I will see if I can fix it. I will send you more details through email. Please send me an email to 1jeredadams@gmail.com
Also, have you replaced the cell and are still getting the same results?
@@JeredAdams hey, i sent you an email. No I haven’t replaced the cell as they are as expensive as replacing the whole thing. It really has less than 2 years of use. Im working with the company to try and find a fix, I feel like it’s possibly some component that got zapped in a power surge or something.
Soooo…..
What is someone who don’t have a electrical engineering degree do to fix this issue?!!!
Buy a new one 😷👎
You just wasted a lot of time and effort and in the process, you're leading people down a road to nowhere! Learn how the cells are made! Voltage means nothing!
Im sorry, why don't you take the time to explain it to everyone so I don't waste any bodies time. Also make a video so it is very clear. Last thing I want to do is waste your time!!
@JeredAdams thetatek6633 explained it perfectly! There's no need for a video, just clean or replace the electrodes when you see the low salt faults, if it is not actually low in salt.
Thaks Jered for the video! I'm in the same boat nearing the end of the second season with the ECO6110. The Low Salt error kicked up over the weekend. Did the vinegar clean, and a green scrub pad clean of the plates. That didn't help. What I did find was that inverting the power cable going into the to titanium plate fixed things-- for about 10 hours. Coincidenally, 10 hours is the auto-reverse polarization time for the unit. Today, I had error 91 again, so I flipped the cable back and we're back running for the past 90 minutes and counting.
Just a supposition, but might it be possible that the plate is fine, and the auto-reverse polarization circuit isn't doing it's job causing the comparitor to see a Low Salt situation because it's reading backwards? I have no clue what the device logic is looking for or how it works, but this seems to jive at least on the timeline.
I think that one side of your plates has a higher resistance due to the plates, plating each other unevenly. Hard to explain in a text but, the debris from one plate sticks to the other and when the relays switch, so does the plate in which the debris sticks to. When the electrodes are functioning, one plate will slowly erode and that erosion will stick to the other plate. When the polarity switches, then so does the above process. So, to put my plates back at zero, I sanded my plates. Vinegar or acid will not work in this case.
If the relays switching was an issue (they quit switching) then the plates will still work, they just never switch over. The relays would just fail working in only one polarity. So, I don't think there is a problem with the relays. I think your plates need sanded and the salt checker needs jump out.
@@JeredAdams That kinda makes sense. But what is the 'fault' if they don't reverse polarity at all? The manual allows several different time frames to auto-reverse, claiming the shorter the reverse period, the shorter the lifespan of the plate. To your knowledge, is there a test to see if the plate is actually depleted? Maybe some type of resistance level from the DC pins? I've seen in other systems where the electrodes are more of a pair of copper looking rods and can be seen to be visibly worn down, but no idea what to look for with flat plates to see if they're simply spent. I just looked this morning and I was back to a 91 error. I still haven't disproven the idea that this could be polarity related-- I did powercycle without reversing the plug and got the error again within 30 minutes; I rebooted again but DID manually reverse the connector and am now at about 45 minutes running fine. Fingers crossed it fails again but in about 9 hours to help create data to prove this theory out.... ;-)
I'm intending to order a complete replacement unit today from Amazon as it's about the same price as just the titanium plate itself after shipping ($153 with 2-day shipping to $164 on Amazon currently) that Intext says will fix the "91" code error, and happy to compare any measurements with the factory fresh unit that you might think are useful for further troubleshooting.
@@KaraokeSTLcom
There is no way for the machine to know that the relays are not switching. If they do fail to switch, the machine is unaware of it. Getting a new machine will fix the problem for a while, but will fail again in the third season. I guess it is still cheaper than buying choline. One of my friends bought new electrodes when he had this problem, and it still fails for error 91. These have come down quite a bit in price. Mine was $400 new.
Ok, I think that's what I was hoping to learn- I had a thought that the voltage check circuit might have been polarized itself, like when you flip the red and black leads on a multimeter, and expected a voltage reading in line with what polarity the system programming was expecting (ie 1.5v or -1.5v).
I'm still trying to wrap my head around why manually reversing polarity at the plate plug is giving a temporary fix (a full 8 hour cycle so far), versus just a reboot only gives a 10-20 minute-ish fix. 🤔
@@KaraokeSTLcom
It's happening because there is lower resistance on one side of your plates. If the resistance is lower, then there is better continuity for current to pass through, which means, no salt error. When the plates have a build up of particles, the resistance goes up and the machine thinks there is not enough salt. The bottom line is, the plates need cleaned/sanded. Sanding the plates is the only way to get the build up off of them. Or, buy new electrodes.