I love all your reviews, now 7 years on the, about the time I have been using these modules. The one to go for is the HW-521 and make sure this is printed on the front of the board. The more expensive YYC-2S is badly designed as after programming , the digits are blank so you you have little idea what you are about to trigger. I guess his day started with a sip of whiskey from Jura )
the last one you seemed to have actually switched off instead of just turning off the display :) maybe holding the left button will do the display and holding the right button will switch it off/on while being powered
I have the slightly different (but exact same layout) DK-C-01, and I'm happy to inform you that they no longer use an opto to drive the relay and there's an actual milled slot between the middle relay pin and the ground plane. This one is an advanced version though - three buttons instead of two, and it has four different timing/delay modes; nothing you couldn't whip up yourself in a hurry (sans display) with an Arduino, but exceedingly convenient when you don't feel like it, especially by having that relay already on board...
I freakin love this chan. Clive you are so interesting and I swear im starting to learn alot from you without realizing it. Now i am starting to look into starting a hobbie of elctronics. getting a "bread board" and will take it from there.
A soothing voice and content that I only partly understand. It has dawned on me that I have sometimes been using Clive's channel as a 21st century bedtime story! No offence Clive :-) As already mentioned by another viewer, I'm learning a lot too. When I'm not watching at bedtime. Perhaps I will have a play with the I/O ports on my new Raspberry Pi 3 starting with some of the project kits available? Will allow me to play with breadboards without doing too much damage.
When building and designing PLC control devices we use opto isolators (we call them optocouplers) because it allows us to switch without actual connection. The opto isolator switched by light, so it works as a good separator.
Cheers Clive I'm currently looking at one of these on ebay to control a train on my model railway and needed to find out if it would do the job before I buy one. The second one looks to be perfect for my needs! :)
I find optocouplers are often a big red flag for an incompetent designer. For some reason, they think throwing in an optocoupler means good things will happen, or bad things won't. It's isolated now! Never mind that track running straight under it between the LED cathode and the transistor emitter. Or that both sides are fed by the same supply.
maybe you canhelp me out. i need a timer like the first one where i can use a coin trigger just like you showed. let say 60 seconds but i need it to be additive. trigger again add another 60 seconds to wht ever is left. add 5 coins add 5 minutes etc.. secod is i want to switch video input. so 2 video inputs. timer off use video input 1 drop. coin switch to video input 2 time runs out back to video 1. any suggestions on simple ways to do this?
Clive, thanks for this. The listing for these different timers are similar, a trap for the unwary. The triggered timer was the one I covered and seems to have a greater variety of uses. Any chance of some thoughts on the VLC V20 voltage detecting timer relay? Cheers, Andy
Hi Clive, I need to provide a steady 12VDC output to power a camera that is attached to a side view mirror. The wiring for the turn signal bulb is 12VDC PULSE, so every ~0.5 seconds I would lose input power. Can I use this type of timer to maintain the steady 12VDC output while the 12VDC Pulse is de-energized? Perhaps set the timer to 1 second - I assume the timer resets when the trigger is tripped again? Is the 12VDC OUTPUT at the same time the timer is receiving 12VDC input? This way when I'm done using my turn signal and the wire/timer is de-energized the whole system goes back into standby and the camera turns off.
not so sure about holding the right-hand button on the last timer board. You turned off the display at 015, and it came back several seconds later as 015.
Clive. Would this be useful for backing off an actuator for a custom electronic handbrake.i have a module to run the actuator that detects amps to pull the cable. But I wouldn't want to back the cable off far. Juat enough to release the brakes?
I forgot to add just now, that I could not go for a simple mechanical segment plug in timer because they all only go down to a 15 minute timing on as a minimum, which is way too long, so I had to choose electronic digital to get timings of 1 minute on minimum, as I wanted 2mins or 3mins max in any hour. So, referring to my previous comment, do you think this sort of timer will not do for electric motor waterpump and flue fan? What would be a solution for this application? Thanks, Alan in Norwich UK.
I bought a plug in digital timer switch, ( brand masterplug, only 6pounds from b&q), it says its for loads up to 2400watts and only says this, with no mention of inductive loads as on other makes. So I used it for timing 3mins on in every hour to my central heating boiler, so it switches a water pump motor and a flue fan motor. It worked for a day, but now will not work at all, no output on any setting, even the setting 'always on' manual overide. Do you think it was an inductive type load that has damaged this timer? I specifically bought this timer as it just says 'max 2400watts', as opposed to one I saw in asda that says ' max2800watts resistive, 325 watts inductive' , so I went for this masterplug one instead as it makes no mention of a lower handling in watts if inductive, and I assumed therefore that 2400 watts referred to every type of load. But it packed up completely after a day, what do you think about this? I appreciate very much any advice from you please, many thanks, Alan, in Norwich Norfolk, UK.
Try pressing the recessed reset button on the time switch. They are very prone to crashing with inductive loads. I'd be very wary of cycling a flue fan on and off if it is intended to remove carbon monoxide from a burner.
Interesting little things, the first one could be useful as a timed hallway light device, using those alarm sensors on doors to make the circuit to set off the timed cycle... :)
Neat. hopefully you can use that blue LED to instead of turning that on, it can give power to something, which in turn, can do something other than light an LED, like make a sound or whatever.
Can you put a link in the description? The first module there is actually perfect for something I have going on where I need to time a 5v signal for 4 minutes triggered by a 3 second pulse.
Hi Clive I’ve built a simple 12v alarm system for my shed. It comprises of a 12v power source, switch, PIR switch and 150 dB ish siren. My problem is the Siren sounds when I set the alarm using the switch once finished in the shed. The PIR switch closes when powered up just like when on a security light. So I’m looking for a way to delay the power going to the siren. So the PIR can power off not triggering the siren. Question is can I put the second module in your video between my PIR and siren. Or does it need constant power to retain programming? Thanks
You can get simple delay relays that don't energise the coil until the set time has elapsed. It would mean the extra load of a continuously energised coil though.
Hello sir. How can I connect a timer module to a 254nm inverter germicidal lamp? Currently it’s connected from the AC power source 120V-5V converter-12V Rocket switch-5V dual lamp UV 254nm germicidal inverter lamp
Are there someone who has experienced the mains interfering with the low voltage circuit when they are placed close to each other? Is it just bad practice or does i regularly cause problems?
it says that it can be set to minutes and not seconds but i never figured it out, thanks for the needed info. Now im looking for a timer about the same size that is a weekly timer
Could you use a single stage delay timer to inturupt a remote start signal, to reduce the amount of time the engine is being cranked? I have a problem where the remote start cranks to long and grinds the starter. The alarm/remote start system is already turned Down to the shortest crank time.
You can buy commercial time delay relays that are intended for use in control panels for providing an adjustable time. When the relay is powered up it doesn't click in until the time has been reached. In your case you could use the normally closed contact to open the signal circuit and stop the cranking after a short delay.
I'm curious to know, what does it reset to if you remove power from the circuit? I intend to use it in an application where the circuit will be discharged completely often.
How quirky! I would imagine that these were made for some very specific application and environment, and that the ebay stuff is whatever was left over. I'd find an arduino probably more useful for doing this sort of job, I think.
FRM01 version of this type of timer has a much more easier setting. But mine still fail in about a year when I use it to switch solenoid every 10 minutes 24/7, any idea how can I modified it to make it last longer? maybe use DC SSR or power MOSFET instead?
Thx, a bit more search I also found FNM01 which is an power MOSFET version of FRM01 I think, might be better than mechanical relay. The price in Aliexpress is a bit too high though, on China site it's list way cheaper than this.
I think the opto simplifies the relay switching levels, since the logic is at 5v and the relay is at a possibly unregulated 12v. Possibly for some strange reason using the +12 to switch instead of pulling a pin to ground (PNP type configuration), that's about all I could think of saving for a silly amount of isolation for the CPU on a rather cheap module. I used a one of these to stagger some solid state relays at work and it worked like a charm. The solid state relays control some blowers and they put in bigger blowers, my start up surge was 96A @ 120Vac.. staggering half the blowers knocked down the max surge to about 70A. The program modes on both units are interesting. The different modes do different things. The ones I have turn the digit off that you are editing for 1/2 a second if I remember right, and you can change the decimal place as well on the one. They all have a different set of features, despite they all look the same. My 2 pin input unit I think if you hold the button down it will go into a mode that allows you to set the timer function. It should let you chose P1 P2 or P3. I think that is from holding down the left button. It should have a cycling timer, one that counts up and turns on and one that counts up and turns off.
+BigCliveDotCom Oddly enough, I have been looking for a (timer?) to turn a light on and off in my chicken coop at the same time every day. Surprisingly, it has been a difficult task. One might think it would be incredibly easy! Thanks for explaining how these things work. You saved me a mistake. I suppose I could use a photosensitive switch, but I was not able to find a module that allows for setting a time interval, like 4 hours. I'm supposing I'm going to need to use a hybrid of a photo cell that triggers the interval timer. I have limited space in the box so this might not be feasible. Also raises the concern of dealing with retriggering. The photo cell will trigger the timer, the timer will count down, but it appears once the countdown finishes, if it is still dark, it will restart.
+bigclivedotcom LOL! Where is the "dork" factor in that? I live in the country and out here we like shiny things, things with lots of LEDs and such. Bug zappers make for good watching on a summer night. That and it's got to fit in a translucent waterproof box along with a thermo sensor to turn on a heat lamp if the temperature drops below 45°F and is planned on being direct wire in to mains voltage rather than a plug. Access to the box is not convenient. It's always fun to over engineered projects like this, too.
Hi Clive, I bought this relay before I watched your video... I was hoping the relay could, if triggered again whilst running could add time value to balance...if that makes sense.. Do you know if there is a product out there or if there is a work around?.. FBG- I'm using it for a coin operated timer. My understanding is that this relay would in fact let the coin mech accept payment (if coin inserted while timer was running) but not increase the timer value ... robbing my patrons....
Maybe someone here can help me, I am looking for something like this but I need it to only time a ground? as in ground a wire for around two seconds then have no polarity what so ever, is that possible with these? if you just don't hook up the positive to the output or does it only switch the positive side with the relay?
Im sure you can get opto isolators with transistors in, so why an external one, and as you said "whats the point" odd designer :-/ The buttons seem to be like old digital watches, jumping digits and multiple modes. Neat though :-D
I find that it is the user interface that is almost universally bad in things from China. There are things like this where the circuit design is unsafe, although there are more and more things that do look like there was at least a thought made in their design until you get to the interface and then they fall flat on their face.
+Bradman175 That is not a proper bomb timer. A bomb timer has bigger numbers, has way more wires and it goes beep every second. I've seen countless movies so I should know.
Hah! And they call my designs user unfriendly. I could have done all that with one single button! No fucking around with confusing multiple buttons. (Macintosh joke btw)
Why did you show a coin mech? That fkin timer stupit,,, if a person put a second coin in it wont multiply the value of the coin in min/sec :( the timer is useless for kiosk or coin op operation :(
ha ha ha , oh sure you may you have the life luxury with your coin lockout coil, but My Ms. Pacman and Donkey Kong was never made with them , smart guy :) i bought the timers with the 3 buttons that look almost same as ones you have and they do both timing functions you show on your two :) but still no trigger time multiplication
i found after the right search some new things on ebay for mame and kiosk not price to high and will do coin value multiplication :) JY-18B Timer Board Time Control Board Power Supply coin acceptor Selector and Timer Board Time Control Board Power Supply time control for Arcade MAME JY-17B
I sent you a private message of something you may be interested in. If you aren't interested in what I said, I am sorry, but I honestly think you will have an appreciation for it.
I love all your reviews, now 7 years on the, about the time I have been using these modules. The one to go for is the HW-521 and make sure this is printed on the front of the board. The more expensive YYC-2S is badly designed as after programming , the digits are blank so you you have little idea what you are about to trigger. I guess his day started with a sip of whiskey from Jura )
the last one you seemed to have actually switched off instead of just turning off the display :) maybe holding the left button will do the display and holding the right button will switch it off/on while being powered
A few 18650s and some electrical tape and you're set.
I have the slightly different (but exact same layout) DK-C-01, and I'm happy to inform you that they no longer use an opto to drive the relay and there's an actual milled slot between the middle relay pin and the ground plane. This one is an advanced version though - three buttons instead of two, and it has four different timing/delay modes; nothing you couldn't whip up yourself in a hurry (sans display) with an Arduino, but exceedingly convenient when you don't feel like it, especially by having that relay already on board...
New favorite channel.
Love the analysis of all the crazy crap!
I freakin love this chan.
Clive you are so interesting and I swear im starting to learn alot from you without realizing it.
Now i am starting to look into starting a hobbie of elctronics. getting a "bread board" and will take it from there.
A soothing voice and content that I only partly understand. It has dawned on me that I have sometimes been using Clive's channel as a 21st century bedtime story! No offence Clive :-) As already mentioned by another viewer, I'm learning a lot too. When I'm not watching at bedtime. Perhaps I will have a play with the I/O ports on my new Raspberry Pi 3 starting with some of the project kits available? Will allow me to play with breadboards without doing too much damage.
When building and designing PLC control devices we use opto isolators (we call them optocouplers) because it allows us to switch without actual connection. The opto isolator switched by light, so it works as a good separator.
Ive never yet seen one of these videos that can show how to use these.
I so wanted you to set the second one to be 1/10th of a second on each cycle
Cheers Clive I'm currently looking at one of these on ebay to control a train on my model railway and needed to find out if it would do the job before I buy one. The second one looks to be perfect for my needs! :)
I find optocouplers are often a big red flag for an incompetent designer. For some reason, they think throwing in an optocoupler means good things will happen, or bad things won't. It's isolated now! Never mind that track running straight under it between the LED cathode and the transistor emitter. Or that both sides are fed by the same supply.
I SWEAR ITS A CLOCK
maybe you canhelp me out. i need a timer like the first one where i can use a coin trigger just like you showed. let say 60 seconds but i need it to be additive. trigger again add another 60 seconds to wht ever is left. add 5 coins add 5 minutes etc.. secod is i want to switch video input. so 2 video inputs. timer off use video input 1 drop. coin switch to video input 2 time runs out back to video 1. any suggestions on simple ways to do this?
Hi Clive, I am impressed by your clarity of thought. Can I trigger this timer with a 3 wire inductive sensor.?
Clive, thanks for this. The listing for these different timers are similar, a trap for the unwary. The triggered timer was the one I covered and seems to have a greater variety of uses. Any chance of some thoughts on the VLC V20 voltage detecting timer relay? Cheers, Andy
Hi Clive, I need to provide a steady 12VDC output to power a camera that is attached to a side view mirror. The wiring for the turn signal bulb is 12VDC PULSE, so every ~0.5 seconds I would lose input power.
Can I use this type of timer to maintain the steady 12VDC output while the 12VDC Pulse is de-energized? Perhaps set the timer to 1 second - I assume the timer resets when the trigger is tripped again? Is the 12VDC OUTPUT at the same time the timer is receiving 12VDC input? This way when I'm done using my turn signal and the wire/timer is de-energized the whole system goes back into standby and the camera turns off.
not so sure about holding the right-hand button on the last timer board. You turned off the display at 015, and it came back several seconds later as 015.
Clive. Would this be useful for backing off an actuator for a custom electronic handbrake.i have a module to run the actuator that detects amps to pull the cable. But I wouldn't want to back the cable off far. Juat enough to release the brakes?
I forgot to add just now, that I could not go for a simple mechanical segment plug in timer because they all only go down to a 15 minute timing on as a minimum, which is way too long, so I had to choose electronic digital to get timings of 1 minute on minimum, as I wanted 2mins or 3mins max in any hour. So, referring to my previous comment, do you think this sort of timer will not do for electric motor waterpump and flue fan? What would be a solution for this application? Thanks, Alan in Norwich UK.
Relays driven with optoisolators has become a big thing
I bought a plug in digital timer switch, ( brand masterplug, only 6pounds from b&q), it says its for loads up to 2400watts and only says this, with no mention of inductive loads as on other makes. So I used it for timing 3mins on in every hour to my central heating boiler, so it switches a water pump motor and a flue fan motor. It worked for a day, but now will not work at all, no output on any setting, even the setting 'always on' manual overide. Do you think it was an inductive type load that has damaged this timer? I specifically bought this timer as it just says 'max 2400watts', as opposed to one I saw in asda that says ' max2800watts resistive, 325 watts inductive' , so I went for this masterplug one instead as it makes no mention of a lower handling in watts if inductive, and I assumed therefore that 2400 watts referred to every type of load. But it packed up completely after a day, what do you think about this? I appreciate very much any advice from you please, many thanks, Alan, in Norwich Norfolk, UK.
Try pressing the recessed reset button on the time switch. They are very prone to crashing with inductive loads.
I'd be very wary of cycling a flue fan on and off if it is intended to remove carbon monoxide from a burner.
I think the opto on the relay is to stop it interfering with the chip.
Interesting little things, the first one could be useful as a timed hallway light device, using those alarm sensors on doors to make the circuit to set off the timed cycle... :)
Neat. hopefully you can use that blue LED to instead of turning that on, it can give power to something, which in turn, can do something other than light an LED, like make a sound or whatever.
Can you put a link in the description? The first module there is actually perfect for something I have going on where I need to time a 5v signal for 4 minutes triggered by a 3 second pulse.
Hi Clive I’ve built a simple 12v alarm system for my shed. It comprises of a 12v power source, switch, PIR switch and 150 dB ish siren. My problem is the Siren sounds when I set the alarm using the switch once finished in the shed. The PIR switch closes when powered up just like when on a security light. So I’m looking for a way to delay the power going to the siren. So the PIR can power off not triggering the siren.
Question is can I put the second module in your video between my PIR and siren. Or does it need constant power to retain programming?
Thanks
You can get simple delay relays that don't energise the coil until the set time has elapsed. It would mean the extra load of a continuously energised coil though.
Hello sir. How can I connect a timer module to a 254nm inverter germicidal lamp? Currently it’s connected from the AC power source 120V-5V converter-12V Rocket switch-5V dual lamp UV 254nm germicidal inverter lamp
Are there someone who has experienced the mains interfering with the low voltage circuit when they are placed close to each other? Is it just bad practice or does i regularly cause problems?
I have one of these to use for computer cooling fans, ended up using W1209 "thermostat" module instead. The programming is reminiscent 🤣
Any chance of making one switch mains to see if they blow up?
it says that it can be set to minutes and not seconds but i never figured it out, thanks for the needed info. Now im looking for a timer about the same size that is a weekly timer
They often do too much ground plane to conserve the etching bath as much as possible
Could you use a single stage delay timer to inturupt a remote start signal, to reduce the amount of time the engine is being cranked? I have a problem where the remote start cranks to long and grinds the starter. The alarm/remote start system is already turned Down to the shortest crank time.
You can buy commercial time delay relays that are intended for use in control panels for providing an adjustable time. When the relay is powered up it doesn't click in until the time has been reached. In your case you could use the normally closed contact to open the signal circuit and stop the cranking after a short delay.
bigclivedotcom thanks
It would seem that creepage distance is not so important in Chinese PCB production :o
I suppose one could physically cut the board 'Ben Heck' style and rewire it with beefier wires if mains switching was desperately needed.
I was looking at those, super cheap. Thanks!
I'm curious to know, what does it reset to if you remove power from the circuit? I intend to use it in an application where the circuit will be discharged completely often.
+Super Vitz They store the settings in non volatile memory.
bigclivedotcom Excellent, thanks for the reply. I didn't realise it was non volatile.
How quirky! I would imagine that these were made for some very specific application and environment, and that the ebay stuff is whatever was left over. I'd find an arduino probably more useful for doing this sort of job, I think.
FRM01 version of this type of timer has a much more easier setting.
But mine still fail in about a year when I use it to switch solenoid every 10 minutes 24/7, any idea how can I modified it to make it last longer? maybe use DC SSR or power MOSFET instead?
+PartTimeRonin For that amount of cycling an electronic switching component would probably be a better option.
Thx, a bit more search I also found FNM01 which is an power MOSFET version of FRM01 I think, might be better than mechanical relay.
The price in Aliexpress is a bit too high though, on China site it's list way cheaper than this.
I think the opto simplifies the relay switching levels, since the logic is at 5v and the relay is at a possibly unregulated 12v. Possibly for some strange reason using the +12 to switch instead of pulling a pin to ground (PNP type configuration), that's about all I could think of saving for a silly amount of isolation for the CPU on a rather cheap module. I used a one of these to stagger some solid state relays at work and it worked like a charm. The solid state relays control some blowers and they put in bigger blowers, my start up surge was 96A @ 120Vac.. staggering half the blowers knocked down the max surge to about 70A. The program modes on both units are interesting. The different modes do different things. The ones I have turn the digit off that you are editing for 1/2 a second if I remember right, and you can change the decimal place as well on the one. They all have a different set of features, despite they all look the same. My 2 pin input unit I think if you hold the button down it will go into a mode that allows you to set the timer function. It should let you chose P1 P2 or P3. I think that is from holding down the left button. It should have a cycling timer, one that counts up and turns on and one that counts up and turns off.
+BigCliveDotCom Oddly enough, I have been looking for a (timer?) to turn a light on and off in my chicken coop at the same time every day. Surprisingly, it has been a difficult task. One might think it would be incredibly easy! Thanks for explaining how these things work. You saved me a mistake.
I suppose I could use a photosensitive switch, but I was not able to find a module that allows for setting a time interval, like 4 hours. I'm supposing I'm going to need to use a hybrid of a photo cell that triggers the interval timer. I have limited space in the box so this might not be feasible. Also raises the concern of dealing with retriggering. The photo cell will trigger the timer, the timer will count down, but it appears once the countdown finishes, if it is still dark, it will restart.
+Rich Booth An ordinary time switch perhaps?
+bigclivedotcom LOL! Where is the "dork" factor in that? I live in the country and out here we like shiny things, things with lots of LEDs and such. Bug zappers make for good watching on a summer night. That and it's got to fit in a translucent waterproof box along with a thermo sensor to turn on a heat lamp if the temperature drops below 45°F and is planned on being direct wire in to mains voltage rather than a plug. Access to the box is not convenient. It's always fun to over engineered projects like this, too.
Hi Clive, I bought this relay before I watched your video... I was hoping the relay could, if triggered again whilst running could add time value to balance...if that makes sense.. Do you know if there is a product out there or if there is a work around?.. FBG- I'm using it for a coin operated timer. My understanding is that this relay would in fact let the coin mech accept payment (if coin inserted while timer was running) but not increase the timer value ... robbing my patrons....
eBay does have dedicated coin mech timers that do increment the time with more credit.
www.ebay.com/itm/111847592626
Thanks Clive... perfect
Not much info about it online... need a review Clive (:
+Pierre Labutte Strangely enough..... I just ordered one.
Awesome...
Maybe someone here can help me, I am looking for something like this but I need it to only time a ground? as in ground a wire for around two seconds then have no polarity what so ever, is that possible with these? if you just don't hook up the positive to the output or does it only switch the positive side with the relay?
The three connections for the relay contacts are separate from the timing circuit so just use the NO and COM connections to short to ground.
Clive, if these things are aimed at the DIYers, the complexity may be clear to a pro, rather than we the unwashed no ?
Im sure you can get opto isolators with transistors in, so why an external one, and as you said "whats the point" odd designer :-/
The buttons seem to be like old digital watches, jumping digits and multiple modes.
Neat though :-D
I find that it is the user interface that is almost universally bad in things from China. There are things like this where the circuit design is unsafe, although there are more and more things that do look like there was at least a thought made in their design until you get to the interface and then they fall flat on their face.
can you go above 999 seconds? like can i do an hour timer , 24 hr timer?
They call it "time base" in Plc talk
Time bomb.
LOL it will explode... And it also serves as a timer!
+Bradman175 That is not a proper bomb timer. A bomb timer has bigger numbers, has way more wires and it goes beep every second. I've seen countless movies so I should know.
Peter Kwan Well dammit get a grow ray and attach a 555 timer and a loudspeaker to it, also stuffing a lot of useless wires on it, DONE!
Can it handle 110 Volts?
I was expecting a bomb to go off every time it counts down :)
I would not recoomend those on anything above 24 volts max.. No way in ** that's good for 220V.
where did you get those?
+Josh Kilen Just search ebay for digital timer module and you'll find a random assortment.
Just cover them with chocolate.
for 2 cents they could have included a sheet of instructions,what the hell?
Hah! And they call my designs user unfriendly. I could have done all that with one single button! No fucking around with confusing multiple buttons. (Macintosh joke btw)
Oooh, oooh, make the pixies smoke their way out, puleeeze!,,,
Wow. Lucky
Why did you show a coin mech? That fkin timer stupit,,, if a person put a second coin in it wont multiply the value of the coin in min/sec :( the timer is useless for kiosk or coin op operation :(
+uhfnutbar1 Coin lockout coil.
ha ha ha , oh sure you may you have the life luxury with your coin lockout coil, but My Ms. Pacman and Donkey Kong was never made with them , smart guy :) i bought the timers with the 3 buttons that look almost same as ones you have and they do both timing functions you show on your two :) but still no trigger time multiplication
i found after the right search some new things on ebay for mame and kiosk not price to high and will do coin value multiplication :) JY-18B Timer Board Time Control Board Power Supply coin acceptor Selector and Timer Board Time Control Board Power Supply time control for Arcade MAME JY-17B
So I guess ISIS will be buying some of their supplies from ebay now...
+44CT232 i think they already perfected using a certain cheap casio for timing devices anyway
And the good thing is they don't need to buy any extra explosives!
+Bradman175 Just rig it so that the relay shorts out some dodgy 18650 lithium cells, and you have a perfect bomb :-P
I sent you a private message of something you may be interested in. If you aren't interested in what I said, I am sorry, but I honestly think you will have an appreciation for it.
It's just a clock (-:
second
third :D