Love the 1200's, built like tanks (and the later models/1210s) and think they're one of the few TT ranges with servicing in mind built into the design. Great vid, keep em up :)
Top repair! Your one of the best repair men out there! Your work shop is so neat and tidy! I like the way you take extreme care of your customer equipment.
Thanks, for the vid, Joe! This looks like a MkI. I have an SL1100 and the motor and PCB is very similar - it is a brilliant turntable. I had the same problem getting it to spin up so I cleaned the pots as you did. The other connection that can cause problems is the 33-off-45 switch, which I think you also cleaned. However, that didn't fix it so I replaced all the electrolytic caps (they are over fifty years old) and replaced the zener diode with a modern, more thermally stable one. I also doubled the capacitance of the big cap to provide a larger store of energy as it was about the same size as the old one. It runs beautifully. Just a tip if you are soldering on this PCB - the traces are thin and easy to lift so be gentle and/or only replace components if they have failed.
Ok good tips... I only replaced 1 capacitor, which was high in ESR...now the turntable guy says it wasn't the issue. He says dirty pots were the cause of my speed 33. He knows more about turntable than I so I won't argue with him. I guess we'll never know what was causing the 33 speed not to turn...all I know i had the right speed after servicing the turntable...
@@VintageAudioFever - he could well be right. I don't know exactly what I did that fixed it - I totally accept I did a bit of a shotgun job after researching potential problems and restoration options. All power to those who does each potential 'fix' one by one and tests the table after each of them!
There is also some "special" oil you can buy for this turntable. 2 to 3 drops is enough in the little hole next to the axle in the center of the platter. I actually lifted up the whole top on the motor so I could clean the axle bearing. But is a little bit scary to do because of the tight tolerance. I also had problem eith the speed. It was doing a bit of fluctation and i had to tune everytime. I just cleaned all the pots and that was enough. Also cleaned the pots on the circuit board. There is two pots there that also controll the 33 and 45 speed. I hope my lamp will last, i guess that was the hardest work on the table. Was it just to change the bulb or did you have to drill it out? If i remember right the bulb is kind of molded in a plastic form that sits in the beutifull aluminium house. Have s nice day!
Hi, nice work, Technics turntables are little works of art. In the video, when replacing the neon, you said that the LED would not work with the stroboscopic lamp, I would like to correct your information - it will work under certain circumstances - in my SL-Q3 model, the lighting is solved with the help of an LED. The SL-Q3 is a bit different in terms of construction, I don't have a motor unit at all, the chassis is the stator and the plate itself is the motor rotor - just for fun. Nice day 🙂Tom
@@VintageAudioFever Yes, you are right, there is strength in simplicity, unfortunately, neon is not like neon, today's neon lamps have different material and size of electrodes, they are filled with different gas, and they have different luminosity depending on the design, and this is where the problem arises. There are applications where the exact wavelength of light and uniformity of light are very important (eg photo choppers) and the replacement of neon lamps in such applications is very problematic, if not impossible, due to changes in the design of the lamps.
Nice work, Joe. It would be great to get a decent jig for turntable work; that would make the job a lot easier. What did you use for your Capacitor Wizard stand? I would like to get something comparable for mine.
When you made the speed adjustment toward the end of the video, did you do anything other than adjusting the pitch pots? Wasn't sure if you made a VR adjustment or not.
I believe you are right, even though that capacitor looked bad so I am glad I have change it regardless...thank you for checking in, I do appreciate your input....like I said in the video, i'm not a pro when it comes to turntbles.
Can you please tell me how to remove the pitch potentiometer from the player body? Should I pull the knob up from the potentiometer or something? The potentiometer knob on my turntable cannot be removed
Hi friend, my name is Marcelo, I'm from Brazil and passionate about vintage sound. Congratulations on the channel and the care in your reviews of the devices. I wanted to take the opportunity and ask you what your opinion would be about this SL 1200 MK I? Does it have the same quality as the MK II? I'm dating one of these but I'm full of doubts. Hugs Marcelo
For DJing, the MK2 is the way to go. The fader is better for smooth pitch change and was meant as a performance control, rather than a "set it and forget it" that most "home" turntables have. (Which is perfectly fine for you too if you don't think you'll be changing the pitch: not doing live "mixes" but just allowing the songs to play at their intended speed.)
You've just ever seen the MK2 version, like most of us. I've never seen a non-MK2 being used by a DJ or in any club setup even in the 90s, the hayday of vinyl mixing.
It is a 1200 (mk1) although the 120 is exactly the same except it came without a tonearm section so one could easily installed, seems SME was the popular choice @@rayolderchurch2569
One of the best turntables ever made, IMHO.. good job..
Thanx again Joe.
Couldn't agree more!
Love the 1200's, built like tanks (and the later models/1210s) and think they're one of the few TT ranges with servicing in mind built into the design. Great vid, keep em up :)
Great seeing these decks up and running after 45 plus years built to last a lifetime
Someone has been in the cue lever trying to fix it! The damping fluid looks to be out. Very common for the Technics.
Top repair! Your one of the best repair men out there! Your work shop is so neat and tidy! I like the way you take extreme care of your customer equipment.
I really appreciate your comment...thank you...means alot!!
Nice repair Joe. You are right, the stylus was extremely dirty.
Thanks!
Excellent video of the Technics SL-1200 MK-1…I have the same one as new….congratulations man….Thanks for your help….
You're welcome, I'm glad I can help!
This one I have been waiting for thanks for video!
Glad you like it!
Great video! Have me rethinking my Sony PS-LX5 trouble shooting. ( So many electronics components)
Liked the calm way every was checked .
Thanks, for the vid, Joe! This looks like a MkI. I have an SL1100 and the motor and PCB is very similar - it is a brilliant turntable. I had the same problem getting it to spin up so I cleaned the pots as you did. The other connection that can cause problems is the 33-off-45 switch, which I think you also cleaned. However, that didn't fix it so I replaced all the electrolytic caps (they are over fifty years old) and replaced the zener diode with a modern, more thermally stable one. I also doubled the capacitance of the big cap to provide a larger store of energy as it was about the same size as the old one. It runs beautifully. Just a tip if you are soldering on this PCB - the traces are thin and easy to lift so be gentle and/or only replace components if they have failed.
Ok good tips... I only replaced 1 capacitor, which was high in ESR...now the turntable guy says it wasn't the issue. He says dirty pots were the cause of my speed 33.
He knows more about turntable than I so I won't argue with him. I guess we'll never know what was causing the 33 speed not to turn...all I know i had the right speed after servicing the turntable...
@@VintageAudioFever - he could well be right. I don't know exactly what I did that fixed it - I totally accept I did a bit of a shotgun job after researching potential problems and restoration options. All power to those who does each potential 'fix' one by one and tests the table after each of them!
very nice work Joe...as always.
I appreciate that
There is also some "special" oil you can buy for this turntable. 2 to 3 drops is enough in the little hole next to the axle in the center of the platter.
I actually lifted up the whole top on the motor so I could clean the axle bearing. But is a little bit scary to do because of the tight tolerance.
I also had problem eith the speed. It was doing a bit of fluctation and i had to tune everytime. I just cleaned all the pots and that was enough. Also cleaned the pots on the circuit board. There is two pots there that also controll the 33 and 45 speed.
I hope my lamp will last, i guess that was the hardest work on the table. Was it just to change the bulb or did you have to drill it out? If i remember right the bulb is kind of molded in a plastic form that sits in the beutifull aluminium house.
Have s nice day!
Hi, nice work, Technics turntables are little works of art. In the video, when replacing the neon, you said that the LED would not work with the stroboscopic lamp, I would like to correct your information - it will work under certain circumstances - in my SL-Q3 model, the lighting is solved with the help of an LED. The SL-Q3 is a bit different in terms of construction, I don't have a motor unit at all, the chassis is the stator and the plate itself is the motor rotor - just for fun.
Nice day 🙂Tom
the 1500 is the same. NEVER turn it on without the plate in place.
Yes, you are right... but with some tweeks...I think the neon bulbs still work best without going into some work into it.
@@VintageAudioFever Yes, you are right, there is strength in simplicity, unfortunately, neon is not like neon, today's neon lamps have different material and size of electrodes, they are filled with different gas, and they have different luminosity depending on the design, and this is where the problem arises. There are applications where the exact wavelength of light and uniformity of light are very important (eg photo choppers) and the replacement of neon lamps in such applications is very problematic, if not impossible, due to changes in the design of the lamps.
Thanks for posting this. You are awesome
Nice work, Joe. It would be great to get a decent jig for turntable work; that would make the job a lot easier. What did you use for your Capacitor Wizard stand? I would like to get something comparable for mine.
Haha I found that in the garbage so I pick it up...
@@VintageAudioFever ☺
When you made the speed adjustment toward the end of the video, did you do anything other than adjusting the pitch pots? Wasn't sure if you made a VR adjustment or not.
Beau travail Joe!
Merci!
Beautiful repair
Thank you!
The problem was dirty pitch controls and speed switch. Doubt the cap with the high ESR had anything to do with it.
I believe you are right, even though that capacitor looked bad so I am glad I have change it regardless...thank you for checking in, I do appreciate your input....like I said in the video, i'm not a pro when it comes to turntbles.
Not a bad idea to change them all when you have the board out anyway. Especially if there's not that many of them like on this table.
40+ year Old Caps that are way beyond its Shelf life should always be replaced and since the TT was open, do it.
Nice work done.
Thanks!
Can you please tell me how to remove the pitch potentiometer from the player body? Should I pull the knob up from the potentiometer or something? The potentiometer knob on my turntable cannot be removed
Nice turntable worth the repair.
They certainly are!
Excellent video Joe! question, I have the identical capacitor wizard, (where did you get the transparent stand?)
I found it in the dumpster haha!!! but I think staples or office supplies would be a good start to look ...
@@VintageAudioFever It is not a mobile phone stand ?
The platter system and arm is different than the USA model.
Hi friend, my name is Marcelo, I'm from Brazil and passionate about vintage sound. Congratulations on the channel and the care in your reviews of the devices.
I wanted to take the opportunity and ask you what your opinion would be about this SL 1200 MK I? Does it have the same quality as the MK II? I'm dating one of these but I'm full of doubts.
Hugs Marcelo
Hey Marcelo, I'm glad you're enjoying the channel! The MK1 is a good table but the MK2 is still king in my book.
For DJing, the MK2 is the way to go. The fader is better for smooth pitch change and was meant as a performance control, rather than a "set it and forget it" that most "home" turntables have. (Which is perfectly fine for you too if you don't think you'll be changing the pitch: not doing live "mixes" but just allowing the songs to play at their intended speed.)
Cap wizard. Saving up for one. Big money for a retiree to buy one.
fun to fix
the sylvester stalone´s young bro
Another problem whit sl1200’s incl GR and G. They lose all to PLX 1000 when it comes to play and extend Snare and drums on rock Music
This is not SL-1200
It is a 1972 SL1200 MK1. First SL1200 before the 1200MK2 was better designed with upgrades including pitch control.
its the SL-120
You've just ever seen the MK2 version, like most of us. I've never seen a non-MK2 being used by a DJ or in any club setup even in the 90s, the hayday of vinyl mixing.
looks like it's the mk1 without quartz , i had one with an SME arm Great sounding players better than a MK 2 IMHO
It is a 1200 (mk1) although the 120 is exactly the same except it came without a tonearm section so one could easily installed, seems SME was the popular choice @@rayolderchurch2569