Having a 5 minutes ride in a home and very easy trail without any Knee/elbow/back (and whatever) protection just to "chek" a new setting, exploding on a rock like a jerk and passing all Summer 2015 on crutches. So, my biggest regret is lazyness!
Buying a Quickrelease MTB. It was the only one available in 2021 - trying to get replacement wheels is almost a neckbreaker, since only HOPE offers one (one) and DTSwiss offers one (one). Replaced the fork with a thruaxle one, so i only have to worry about the rear wheel for now.
I could, and did buy a carbon bike. Eventually sold it because I was fed up with worrying about bashing it on a rock, damaging it with deep scratches or squashing it in my car roof rack. Carbon is bullshit pushed by the industry. Quite often just as heavy as the alloy equivalent and even when it is lighter, it's less of a difference than eating a good breakfast. Alloy all day long!
I used to set a customer's new ride standing against the workbench and would then grab a headset, pedal or other large wrench and silently had it to them while they looked it over. Then I would say "close your eyes, throw the wrench and get the 1st scratch overwith. 50% took the wrench and threw it, some didn't close their eyes.
It’s just a material item. Won’t last forever and someday will obsolete outdated broken and back to the earth. Besides scratches give things character it’s a sign something is being used and experiencing life and wearing in naturally along with the course of life.
My biggest regret is actually using that mentioned degreaser on a new chain. Used MucOff-Lube afterwards and had a rusty chain about 3-4 months after. New chain, factory grease stays on, normal cleaner and wet-chainlube later, no rust after 2 years of riding. So thats that for me.
2 years on a chain??? WTF? Mine wore out from natural causes (stretched) in 6 months, Shimano 11 speed chain. Bike Shop said it was at the stretch point of replacing before it starts damaging drive train. I do however pedal pretty hard up some really steep stuff, gotta earn that downhill on Vancouver Island, Canada. Yes I degreased and regreased often and brushed the heck outta my chain and drivetrain every ride during the muddy and snowy months.
Biggest regret, not getting out for a ride. Never put frame protectors on. It's a bike, it's meant for riding. When it gets too scratched up, I either beadblast/respray the frame or upgrade it. I've watched people throwing a proper tant at parks over scratches etc. - always makes me laugh. Agree with the suspension point, though. It is important to keep on top of that, brakes, chain, etc.
A decent rear mudguard comes to mind. One that fits so that it not only protects you r backside but also runs forward and down protecting the rear triangle pivots. Makes for less muck getting all over the pivots and drive chain and also good for keeping dropper posts happy.
Never protected a frame in my life..... I ride my bikes till they either die or get so old it's time to upgrade.... a few scratches isn't going to harm a bike, my bike regularly gets caked in mud when I'm out riding, why would I care about a few small scratches vs paying £50 for a decent frame wrap that will dull and yellow over time..... One of the first rides out on my Giant Trance X the rear deraileur cage snapped, the broken mech and the chain got sucked into the wheel, snapped 5x spokes and the chain scratched up the chain-stays, I doubt a frame wrap would have survived that..... Also a solid reason I'd never buy a carbon bike :D
@@Gooliverr As long as carbon is not involved then it is standard practice to just use grease for seatposts. An anti-seize like copper slip is not really desirable for a seatpost from an asthetic perspective.It is also advisable to use a file around the inside of the seat tube when building a new bike to remove any sharp edges and prevent scratching up the seatpost. For carbon frames or posts then a gripper paste is required to avoid damaging the carbon from excessive clamping force.
@@andyarchitect I don't use grease on metal seat posts in a metal frame for the very same reason - it gets absolutely filthy after couple of weeks of riding and unless I torque it down at least with 10Nm (which exceeds the typical value), it will eventually slip. Good call on the filing inside the seat tube though - one of my bike's seat post got zig-zag scratches when the tube was a bit stuck inside and I tried to take it out
Not researching enough before buying parts. When I didn't know that offset matters I bought a set of forks with the wrong offset. I hated the feel until I gave up and bought new fork top tube assembly to fix the problem. $$$
"Your locals suspension center"... that doesn't exist. You have to find some online service- put my stuff in boxes I don't have, pay a fortune for postage, wait weeks to get it back and then 2 weeks later some seal is leaking that would have been fine if nobody had touched it... and if you do that 2-3 times you could have just bought a new fork and damper..
Recently had my rear axle back out on the approach to a log ride, line was of stepped off to see a axel poking out, rear hub had came apart to the point the cassette came out of the ratcheting system too… lol
Tip: buy a torque wrench and use it on everything. Top tube and down tube protection is a must. Otherwise, I buy for life and don’t mind scars. I’m meticulous about drive train cleaning and lower/air can service. It’s easy. I only do bolt checks before trips and at spring start-up. But any time there’s a new rattle, I stop immediately to investigate.
No regrets on the frame protection for my bike...but I do regret not getting it for my car. I have stone chips all over the bumper and some noticeable ones on the hood.
pre-ride brake and shifter testing is key for me. There's nothing more terrifying like going on a descent to find out that your brakes don't bite or climbing up an ascent to learn that your bike can't shift all the way.
Regret not re-greasing front thru axle after cleaning the front disc. Even though I hadn't removed the wheel, the disc cleaner must've seeped into the threads of the axle and helped the axle bond to the forks. Now that took some undoing 🥵
@@Hipp0campus_1 I never grease the discs, just the pads 😂 Saying that I do put copper slip on the back of the pads. Good enough for the motorbike so can't hurt on the MTB
Only thing I'm missing is downtube protection, my bikeshop said I dont need frame wrap as my hardtail is aluminum and should be fine structurally, I probably wont be reselling it ever, I'm just saving up for an Enduro type thing for in the future, but i'll keep the hardtail anyways as its pretty perfect for most applications, Enduro will just be nice for higher speeds on chattery terrain, basically a downhill bike that can climb and fit a 210 dropper.
Medical insurance for bike riding is an essential thing, if you're riding a lot, but insuring the bike itself is an extortion, at least in Poland. If you have a £3000 bike, then your insurance will be around £700 per year, and still it doesn't cover all damage/theft cases
Not checking tire air pressure before each ride no matter how the squeeze test might feel. Second, we always bring bike tool box and work stand to the trailhead, always regret when we don't.........Third, not upping your Stans from time2time.
Frame protection: I just noticed a scratch/scuff on the side of my carbon down tube and instantly remembered the moment I had decided NOT to put RideWrap on that part...😩
The last one actually happened to me a few weeks ago! I had to tie the other crankarm to the chain stay, make my wife sit on the bike and lift the whole thing until it came off
Protection : Yeah, sure. Insurance : Legit a scam, you know insurances wouldnt be viable if they wouldnt profit. So it has to be the case that on average you are paying more than you are getting. Its actually pretty much gambling. Cleaning : Yeah, sure. Bolt Check : Yeah, sure. Service : Yeah, sure. Pedal Greasing : Amateur mechanic opinion. Anti-seize instead of grease.
Found any major creaks on your rallon? what sorted them if you had them? mine is now and so loud. I feeling its either the ds cs/st pivot, the plastic udh is what is contact with the bearing.
Dude, sometimes a screw head might slip but if you're consistently wrecking threads that's 100% on you, i worked on my 2009 Lapierre Froggy for about a year and a half exclusively with my multitool and zero issues
Dude, sometimes a screw head might slip but if you're consistently wrecking threads that's 100% on you, i worked on my 2009 Lapierre Froggy for about a year and a half exclusively with my multitool and zero issues
they use smaller size screws in places where less torque is needed- so when you use a normal sized Allen key it is very hard to over-torque something without twisting the tool or ruin the screw head
Had a (clipless) pedal that the axle seized and unwound whilst pedalling - but only after the body sheared off!! Must have used insufficient amount of grease on their last service or overtightened the cap on the axle.
My biggest regret was not carrying spare master links and a multi-tool. My chain snapped halfway through a 10 mile loop. I won’t be making that mistake again.
I locked up my suspension because I was riding for a long time to get to the trail and then I forgot to unlock the fork then I went on a jump and regretted it immediately so now I don’t lock my suspension anymore
I know it was like done as a comedic point but isn't it left loosy righty tighy, Wouldn't that mean loosening your pedals to grease them mean going away in a standing position?
Pedal threads go in different directions. It’s done so that they can’t be accidentally loosened over time by pedalling. They effectively tighten up as you pedal (sort of), which means you undo them by unscrewing pedals towards the back of the bike for both sides. Hope that makes sense! 😊
Here is how to remember how to remove your pedals. Right is right left is wrong. I use a small impact never have a stuck pedal again. From the inside use the opposite
@@user-cc6rw9he9m if you didn’t know one pedal is for the left & one is for the right. they are not threaded the same. I don’t think you’ve removed or put on very many pedals.
@@quinncolbyI'm well aware of lh and rh threads. Why don't you try what I am saying first you muppet. No matter which side you stand on the bike, if you turn thr Allen key towards the rear for that pedal, it will undo it. Towards the front it tightens it. Be honest, go do it, come back and Apologise. I think you have wasted a hell of a lot of time over thinking how to fit and remove pedals
Frame protection is like a car bra… just makes it look aweful immediately. Better to leave it, and get a few scratches and wear marks… this goes double for raw CF or matt finish frames
Carbon Frame? yea, not in reality. No frame protection. Good wash of bike after every ride if it needs it. Check chain after every ride, clean and lube if necessary. Bolt check just before putting it on the bike rack before leaving. Having proper tools allow me to do all service by recommended service intervals. Always buy quality parts. Ride like hell.
Those scratch protectors seem a bit strange, aren't you buying a carbon bike because it's lighter and then you have to add to it's weight with protectors. Seems like you gave us a good reason not to buy carbon bikes.
Frame protection? Most carbon bike have shitty paint and if you peel those sticker off the paint comes with it. Maybe if they have a thick clear coat over the paint but bike companies want the lightest weight and least expensive paint work..
Lived regret: Not putting frame protection on the bike, to include crank and end of crank cap. Also, using a hanging-style bike rack - the wheel ended up right by the muffler which melted the carbon rim.
yea. The regret with pedals is not knowing the left one is threaded backwards. But yea, if you dont follow the instructions and skip the grease thread, youll need a MaN to get it off later. And todays women doint need men, so f that, right?
What's your biggest mountain biking regret? Let us know in the comments! 👇
😅 to greasing pedals
Running worn out components to long.
Buying a 7k CDN build Yeti 575 back in 2011. Great bike, too expensive I never felt comfortable on it, dentist trip over... 😅
Having a 5 minutes ride in a home and very easy trail without any Knee/elbow/back (and whatever) protection just to "chek" a new setting, exploding on a rock like a jerk and passing all Summer 2015 on crutches. So, my biggest regret is lazyness!
Buying a Quickrelease MTB. It was the only one available in 2021 - trying to get replacement wheels is almost a neckbreaker, since only HOPE offers one (one) and DTSwiss offers one (one). Replaced the fork with a thruaxle one, so i only have to worry about the rear wheel for now.
bold of you to assume i can afford a carbon bike
well at least ur made of carbon!!
Some of us prefer alloy even if we can afford carbon. I know i do. Fewer worries about rock strikes, etc.
😂😂😂
But I guess sticker and guard is affordable 😂
I could, and did buy a carbon bike. Eventually sold it because I was fed up with worrying about bashing it on a rock, damaging it with deep scratches or squashing it in my car roof rack. Carbon is bullshit pushed by the industry. Quite often just as heavy as the alloy equivalent and even when it is lighter, it's less of a difference than eating a good breakfast. Alloy all day long!
No frame protection is not a regret for me, having some battle scars is memories of good times!
No. 1 stopping riding bikes when I was 17/18 and not starting again until my 30s
No.2 Not riding enough.
The first scratch on a new bike feels like a scratch in your soul. You will always see it. 😁
True, but after it's "just another scratch" ...
I used to set a customer's new ride standing against the workbench and would then grab a headset, pedal or other large wrench and silently had it to them while they looked it over. Then I would say "close your eyes, throw the wrench and get the 1st scratch overwith. 50% took the wrench and threw it, some didn't close their eyes.
It’s just a material item. Won’t last forever and someday will obsolete outdated broken and back to the earth. Besides scratches give things character it’s a sign something is being used and experiencing life and wearing in naturally along with the course of life.
@@evanl889 We all know that. it still stings.
Left side top tube deep scratch you can see the aluminum, got it descending a big hill my front tire got in the rut and i went over the bars😂
My biggest regret is actually using that mentioned degreaser on a new chain.
Used MucOff-Lube afterwards and had a rusty chain about 3-4 months after.
New chain, factory grease stays on, normal cleaner and wet-chainlube later, no rust after 2 years of riding. So thats that for me.
2 years on a chain??? WTF? Mine wore out from natural causes (stretched) in 6 months, Shimano 11 speed chain. Bike Shop said it was at the stretch point of replacing before it starts damaging drive train. I do however pedal pretty hard up some really steep stuff, gotta earn that downhill on Vancouver Island, Canada. Yes I degreased and regreased often and brushed the heck outta my chain and drivetrain every ride during the muddy and snowy months.
@@augmented2nd666 11 and 12 speed chains on a 1x don't last long.
Biggest regret, not getting out for a ride.
Never put frame protectors on. It's a bike, it's meant for riding. When it gets too scratched up, I either beadblast/respray the frame or upgrade it. I've watched people throwing a proper tant at parks over scratches etc. - always makes me laugh.
Agree with the suspension point, though. It is important to keep on top of that, brakes, chain, etc.
Wind is whipping through your helmet vents!..😂😂 never wipping through my hair.... dont have any!!😂. So love this line
A decent rear mudguard comes to mind. One that fits so that it not only protects you r backside but also runs forward and down protecting the rear triangle pivots. Makes for less muck getting all over the pivots and drive chain and also good for keeping dropper posts happy.
Never protected a frame in my life..... I ride my bikes till they either die or get so old it's time to upgrade.... a few scratches isn't going to harm a bike, my bike regularly gets caked in mud when I'm out riding, why would I care about a few small scratches vs paying £50 for a decent frame wrap that will dull and yellow over time..... One of the first rides out on my Giant Trance X the rear deraileur cage snapped, the broken mech and the chain got sucked into the wheel, snapped 5x spokes and the chain scratched up the chain-stays, I doubt a frame wrap would have survived that..... Also a solid reason I'd never buy a carbon bike :D
Your best ever, in my opinion! Great job Ana!
I regret not greasing an alloy seatpost in a steel frame... just about ripped the vice off my work bench trying to break it free.
You need friction to have the seat post stay in place without crushing the seat tube. Use an anti-seize or even carbon fibre gripper paste
@@Gooliverr As long as carbon is not involved then it is standard practice to just use grease for seatposts. An anti-seize like copper slip is not really desirable for a seatpost from an asthetic perspective.It is also advisable to use a file around the inside of the seat tube when building a new bike to remove any sharp edges and prevent scratching up the seatpost. For carbon frames or posts then a gripper paste is required to avoid damaging the carbon from excessive clamping force.
@@andyarchitect I don't use grease on metal seat posts in a metal frame for the very same reason - it gets absolutely filthy after couple of weeks of riding and unless I torque it down at least with 10Nm (which exceeds the typical value), it will eventually slip. Good call on the filing inside the seat tube though - one of my bike's seat post got zig-zag scratches when the tube was a bit stuck inside and I tried to take it out
Ooof! If I do Part 2 I’m using that one 😅
Great video Anna and GMBN, congratulations!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Not researching enough before buying parts. When I didn't know that offset matters I bought a set of forks with the wrong offset. I hated the feel until I gave up and bought new fork top tube assembly to fix the problem. $$$
"Your locals suspension center"... that doesn't exist. You have to find some online service- put my stuff in boxes I don't have, pay a fortune for postage, wait weeks to get it back and then 2 weeks later some seal is leaking that would have been fine if nobody had touched it... and if you do that 2-3 times you could have just bought a new fork and damper..
Recently had my rear axle back out on the approach to a log ride, line was of stepped off to see a axel poking out, rear hub had came apart to the point the cassette came out of the ratcheting system too… lol
OMG! I feel a part 2 coming on for this video 😅
Another great and fun video Anna, well done!
I regret using the wrong olive on my brake hose, it's never coming loose
Another amazing video as always while eating my dinner! Always will love gmbn! ♥
Thanks for watching! What did you have for your dinner?
@@gmbn Chicken and rice!! 🤣🤣
Protein rich 💪
damn what a super intresting video, kudos to Anna that is very good at presenting and explaining in a cool and easy way! keep going guys
The scratch regret is mine already. However, the other reasons for regret were covered from the beginning. Thank you for the video.
it's a mountain bike it's going to get scratched, stop being so precious about things
Tip: buy a torque wrench and use it on everything.
Top tube and down tube protection is a must. Otherwise, I buy for life and don’t mind scars. I’m meticulous about drive train cleaning and lower/air can service. It’s easy. I only do bolt checks before trips and at spring start-up. But any time there’s a new rattle, I stop immediately to investigate.
No regrets on the frame protection for my bike...but I do regret not getting it for my car. I have stone chips all over the bumper and some noticeable ones on the hood.
Great presenter and tips
I love the reenactments 😂
Hard to believe I never went to acting school, huh 😅
pre-ride brake and shifter testing is key for me. There's nothing more terrifying like going on a descent to find out that your brakes don't bite or climbing up an ascent to learn that your bike can't shift all the way.
Regret not re-greasing front thru axle after cleaning the front disc. Even though I hadn't removed the wheel, the disc cleaner must've seeped into the threads of the axle and helped the axle bond to the forks. Now that took some undoing 🥵
Yep happened to me couple of weeks ago. Was one hell of a job to get it unstuck. Definitely learned my lesson there.
you must've had forgotten to regrease your disc!
@@Hipp0campus_1 I never grease the discs, just the pads 😂 Saying that I do put copper slip on the back of the pads. Good enough for the motorbike so can't hurt on the MTB
never needed anything else than mud and water on my discs 😝
@@jan-mtb I spend far too much time watching GMBN who tell us that if we don't maintain our bikes they'll just disintegrate in front of our eyes 😂
Only thing I'm missing is downtube protection, my bikeshop said I dont need frame wrap as my hardtail is aluminum and should be fine structurally, I probably wont be reselling it ever, I'm just saving up for an Enduro type thing for in the future, but i'll keep the hardtail anyways as its pretty perfect for most applications, Enduro will just be nice for higher speeds on chattery terrain, basically a downhill bike that can climb and fit a 210 dropper.
Medical insurance for bike riding is an essential thing, if you're riding a lot, but insuring the bike itself is an extortion, at least in Poland. If you have a £3000 bike, then your insurance will be around £700 per year, and still it doesn't cover all damage/theft cases
Saving money on a mudguard and looking like a chocolate fudge after every ride.
Not servicing my bike and dumping a lot of money in bike shops.
Not checking tire air pressure before each ride no matter how the squeeze test might feel. Second, we always bring bike tool box and work stand to the trailhead, always regret when we don't.........Third, not upping your Stans from time2time.
Thank you so much ❤
Wait, there is bike insurance?😮 Also, in this relationship I'm going to say Anna's bike is enjoying a good life 😉
I think it’s more of a love hate relationship… I love it, it hates me. 😅
@@AnnaOnTheBike Lol, mine is probably trying to divorce me right now!
Putting up with a crap dropper post for too long - a turbine r that wouldn’t extend. Got a one up post recently and it just works.
Well done!
Frame protection: I just noticed a scratch/scuff on the side of my carbon down tube and instantly remembered the moment I had decided NOT to put RideWrap on that part...😩
I regret not going to the gym when it comes to removing my cassette! Oosh! 😖
Cheap cranks are the best, you have to see pedals and cranks as seasonal consumables in my region. Rocks are king...
Would having shorter cranks help?
I regret pushing my damper all the way in during my lowers service last weekend...
😭
@@AnnaOnTheBike Just did a damper bleed and it's all fixed now (I hope, yet to ride it in anger). Those fox vise jaws are a bit spendy though!
The last one actually happened to me a few weeks ago! I had to tie the other crankarm to the chain stay, make my wife sit on the bike and lift the whole thing until it came off
Grease on thread affects torque settings
Wish id of put summin on the top of my Occam had it 4 weeks and scratched it with my lock 😬
Swap the cranks over, makes it easier to remove the pedals for sure...
Protection : Yeah, sure.
Insurance : Legit a scam, you know insurances wouldnt be viable if they wouldnt profit. So it has to be the case that on average you are paying more than you are getting. Its actually pretty much gambling.
Cleaning : Yeah, sure.
Bolt Check : Yeah, sure.
Service : Yeah, sure.
Pedal Greasing : Amateur mechanic opinion. Anti-seize instead of grease.
Found any major creaks on your rallon? what sorted them if you had them? mine is now and so loud. I feeling its either the ds cs/st pivot, the plastic udh is what is contact with the bearing.
Not getting a torque wrench and repeatedly snapping or stripping bolts. Not realising how expensive mtb’ing is before getting into it.
Dude, sometimes a screw head might slip but if you're consistently wrecking threads that's 100% on you, i worked on my 2009 Lapierre Froggy for about a year and a half exclusively with my multitool and zero issues
Dude, sometimes a screw head might slip but if you're consistently wrecking threads that's 100% on you, i worked on my 2009 Lapierre Froggy for about a year and a half exclusively with my multitool and zero issues
they use smaller size screws in places where less torque is needed- so when you use a normal sized Allen key it is very hard to over-torque something without twisting the tool or ruin the screw head
Had a (clipless) pedal that the axle seized and unwound whilst pedalling - but only after the body sheared off!! Must have used insufficient amount of grease on their last service or overtightened the cap on the axle.
Houston, we may have a problem with the pedals.
My biggest regret was not carrying spare master links and a multi-tool. My chain snapped halfway through a 10 mile loop. I won’t be making that mistake again.
I locked up my suspension because I was riding for a long time to get to the trail and then I forgot to unlock the fork then I went on a jump and regretted it immediately so now I don’t lock my suspension anymore
Not repacking cup and cone hub bearings after a particularly sloggy ride... That cost me a wheel.
Don’t over tighten your pedals they tighten while you ride.
More scratches = more stories and memories, some good some bad.
bolt check? why? you don't like your handlebars to be a bit unpredictable and exciting in your relationship?
Love the taste of broken teeth on the trail side :D
I love the battle scars on my bike.
I know it was like done as a comedic point but isn't it left loosy righty tighy, Wouldn't that mean loosening your pedals to grease them mean going away in a standing position?
Pedal threads go in different directions. It’s done so that they can’t be accidentally loosened over time by pedalling. They effectively tighten up as you pedal (sort of), which means you undo them by unscrewing pedals towards the back of the bike for both sides. Hope that makes sense! 😊
Forks will never work with both brakes on.. Try releasing the left hand lever...
The Best..
Way to fix your suspension
JAG
Guilty of a few of those. 🤣
You live and learn 🤷♂️
I regret not buying my Polygon carbon hardtail sooner 😅
My mechanic told me to go ahead and use the factory grease on the new chain. I certainly regretted listening to him.
how can you assume that i have paitwork? raw all the way!
In my country bike insurance is quite expensive. I can insure my car in the same money as bike
If i have a levo SL already would i even want to ride this?
getting insured is so true... got my bike stolen twice last year and nearly got my full sus stolen multiple times
Here is how to remember how to remove your pedals. Right is right left is wrong. I use a small impact never have a stuck pedal again. From the inside use the opposite
Much easier way. Turn the Allen key towards the rear of the bike to remove, and towards the front to tighten
@@user-cc6rw9he9m I will stick with my impact. It’s much easier plus you didn’t say which side to go forward in which side reverse
@@quinncolby it's the same on both sides with my method. That's why it's so easy. But if it's too complicated for you... 😂
@@user-cc6rw9he9m if you didn’t know one pedal is for the left & one is for the right. they are not threaded the same. I don’t think you’ve removed or put on very many pedals.
@@quinncolbyI'm well aware of lh and rh threads. Why don't you try what I am saying first you muppet. No matter which side you stand on the bike, if you turn thr Allen key towards the rear for that pedal, it will undo it. Towards the front it tightens it. Be honest, go do it, come back and Apologise. I think you have wasted a hell of a lot of time over thinking how to fit and remove pedals
I invisd my frame before building it😊☢️
my leg sliped from the pedals and I ended up with the frame half scratched🥲
Frame protection is like a car bra… just makes it look aweful immediately. Better to leave it, and get a few scratches and wear marks… this goes double for raw CF or matt finish frames
No regrets... Dont care if paint is damaged...
Chicks dig scars 😂
Carbon Frame? yea, not in reality. No frame protection. Good wash of bike after every ride if it needs it. Check chain after every ride, clean and lube if necessary. Bolt check just before putting it on the bike rack before leaving. Having proper tools allow me to do all service by recommended service intervals. Always buy quality parts. Ride like hell.
Greasing pivots
Just do it
I installed new pedals and after 3 rides one of them fell off. Luckily on pavement and i didnt get hurt.
Very lucky, were the threads still intact when you went to put it back on?
@@gmbn luckily yes!
Pedal grease is very important. Don't ask me how I know... ;)
Ride wrap, everytime no exception
Those scratch protectors seem a bit strange, aren't you buying a carbon bike because it's lighter and then you have to add to it's weight with protectors. Seems like you gave us a good reason not to buy carbon bikes.
hello
Frame protection? Most carbon bike have shitty paint and if you peel those sticker off the paint comes with it. Maybe if they have a thick clear coat over the paint but bike companies want the lightest weight and least expensive paint work..
Damn maintenance on a bike is worse than my truck😅
mtb insurance pfffft
Geez, I don't even use screen protectors. Certainly not going to spend money on over priced frame protection. Oh, also - I wax my chains...
No screen protector?? Man’s living on the edge! 😱
I rly dont get why people care about getting scratches on their bikes its like buying a car and crying about getting a stone chip
I regret not throwing my mates truevative stuff farther away after it broke two tools until it came loose.
"chicks dig scars but buyers won't" !! Say what? No real mtber sells a steed. Family for life.
Haha good point 😅
Never underestimate the joy of a rock hitting new carbon 😂
Not getting a new bike sooner.....got it now though😊 What coat is Anna wearing in the video,I need a new jacket🤔
Comments like these always reminds me of bad boys for some reason... “Everyone wants to be like Mike Lowrey!“
Lived regret: Not putting frame protection on the bike, to include crank and end of crank cap. Also, using a hanging-style bike rack - the wheel ended up right by the muffler which melted the carbon rim.
😭
That's a very expensive regret to have! Now you know to double check though 🤷♂️
Carbon mtb is not good for downhills
wearing through the carbon........yea nahhhhh i stick to steal
That's a beautiful bike
Is Orbea your new sponsors??
Job safed😂
We've been working with Orbea for some time now 🤙
Frame protection? No thanks. I prefer to go raw dog.
Screaming at it?
GMBN is a channel for rich dudes. Full stop.😂😂😂😂😂
We need Elon to buy YT next. These butt bots are wild!
ah, but(!) what about free speech dude? or at least the right t post how ya like? them buttbots are just havin the craic!
@@fugoogle9757 bruh! Are you for real or are you just being an "ah, but" bot for the craic?
@@BlueKnows who nose blue knows?! at least the comments from the bb's seem innocuous.. cd be worse..
GMBN getting really repetitive now huh
Pretty sure I’ve never asked the audience if they’d ride with grit in their pants. 😏
yea. The regret with pedals is not knowing the left one is threaded backwards. But yea, if you dont follow the instructions and skip the grease thread, youll need a MaN to get it off later. And todays women doint need men, so f that, right?