I learn more from your videos in a few minutes than I do in hours with the manual or searching other websites. Thanks so much and keep the great G9 videos coming!
that's because she says everything carefully and she does not over complicate things. Other channels want to impress you with technical know how and that's not what I need.
Thank you. This has become my favorite channel on learning - and the more I watch - the more I realize how little I know. At least - these videos are interesting and actually entertaining.
@@ImageMaven Your creations are timeless. With the Lumix G9 - you picked one that has a hugh customer base. First owners and those who buy used or refurbished.
Just got a Lumix G95 for an early bday present. Previously had an old Nikon hand-me-down. Still feel like a begginer at times, but wanted to let you know that I find your instruction very good! Thank you!
Good choice Krista. Lumix are very user friendly. And the menus are similar in all of their cameras so my videos should help you out for a while. Thanks for stopping by.
Marlene, Thank you for all of your advice yesterday to resolve my camera problem. After your input, speaking to experts at Panasonic and many expert friends who were all unable to resolve the problem. Panasonic told me to send my camera to their service center for repair. When I spoke to my local camera shop about posting it, the young girl in the shop tried to help me and she suggested trying the creative mode. When I checked, it was in a low mono setting (probably inadvertently by me) I changed it to a mode with colour and that resolved the problem. Both viewfinder and LCD screen are now both in unison. Thanks for your quick response and help yesterday. We learn something everyday.
Thank you Marlene, another great clip and teaching us how to use proper exposure with a histogram. I honestly did not know that this exists, and I also learned that you can scroll down when you push the display botton…thank you, very helpful!
Thanks for another fantastic video! The way you combine great examples with clear information, and a light, fun atmosphere makes learning this otherwise intimidating stuff both easy and enjoyable. Thanks again!
Hi Marlene. I have tuned my jpegs on my Fz330 to death in camera, having watched all Graham Houghton's videos. I'm now thinking of getting the G9 and have just found your channel and subscribed. This is music to my ears to have someone maximising ooc jpegs and I hope to learn about the extra g9 features too. You have a very clear and informative style. Very helpful.
Great to hear this. I hope you enjoy your G9. It's a big change from a bridge camera physically, but the old familiar Lumix menus are still around, with some great additions. Graham is an excellent teacher. Hopefully I meet your expectations. Cheers!
Wow Marlene! I'm so glad I've found your channel...I'm not much of a techie, but was able to update firmware for the first time today, and now know what the yellow histogram means. Love my G9; I'm so glad you are here to teach!
Having just recently gotten a G9 this series of videos is great! You're really inspiring me to try just shooting JPEG as well. I was immediately impressed with the JPEG quality of this camera, so that makes me very receptive. Luminar, yes! That software is amazing.
Great to hear it Jason. It took me a long time to let go of raw shooting. But now I'm 99% jpg. I'll shoot jpg+raw if I'm nervous or it's a really fussy client. But when I do I still end up using the jpgs. For me Luminar is for the wild and creative edits. For the regular stuff, I'm sticking to LR CC. I rarely use Photoshop anymore. Thanks for your comments. Cheers!
Great stuff again! Like many others, I always learn something new from your videos. One tip I have used with my G9: As you said, it is not nice to have to look at the histogram all the time and I think the back button requires too much toggling. I have set up histogram on/off to the lower front button (another advantage of the G9). That way it is easy to toggle it on and off.
Hi Marlene, thank you so much for sharing all those G9 videos! I really appreciate and like them - so far I only watched the first 5 or so, but I continue for sure. Also, I like your "pre-processing and jpeg passion" - This is what actually prompted me to start this comment. I started traditional film photography (please people, stop calling this "analog"! - there is nothing analog in those cameras, besides the light meter, perhaps) as a kid with some instant cameras. Later I moved on to use SLRs (first my older sister's Praktica, later a Canon AE1program) and also developed some B/W pictures in our school's lab. From this time I also still remember the 1 over focal length as a rule of thumb for handheld exposure time :-)) Later this hobby was pushed to the back a bit by work and family, but since a few years I am now back into taking pictures, now on MFT. I had an Olympus OM-D E-M10 II first, moved to a GX9, which I am now trading for a G9, for which I am impatiently waiting while already enjoying your tutorials - delivery is expected still this week. About your videos and philosophy I particularly like the practical and useful advice you give. On one side I am amazed by the amount of options and settings one can make on those modern cameras (am I allowed to call a 2 year old model like G9 still modern today?), on the other side I am a bit scared by the amount of options and settings that one has to make on those modern cameras to get the best out of it. You are helping me a lot to try new options (many of the G9 features also work for the GX9) and understand the details much better than from reading the manuals - which we all always do, you know! Thanks again, stay safe and stay healthy!
Hi Thomas, Thank you for your comments. Sounds like we have similar backgrounds in film and digital photography. I'm actually looking at the GX9 to use as a smaller more portable camera to keep in my bag at all times. My super small GM5 is nearly done for. It's been banged around my bag for the past 3 years and has had thousands of shutter clicks. I was hoping to get the GX9 to replace it. Have fun with your new G9! Hopefully you like it as much as I do. Take care and Stay Safe!
I am really enjoying your series on the G9. I recently bought the G9 and really like it. But there is a lot to learn to master it. Thanks for your help!
Thanks so much for letting me know, Steven. There is definitely a lot to this camera. I've just barely scratched the surface so there will be more videos to come!
Cheers Marlene, greatly appreciate your input into the G9 setups and features. Lumix should hire you mate. Your so easy to understand and great tutor for us lazy boys/girls :) I'm about to get my second G9 with a 12mm Summilux Lens for my indoor sporting events. Struggled with the f2.8's so am looking forward to getting over all those issues. All the best and have to say love your work mate. Greetings from Down Under in Sunny Queensland.
Hi Dean, Thanks for writing. Appreciate your comments. That fast 12mm f/1.4 lens you're getting will be awesome for indoor sports! Hey, if you were super lazy you wouldn't shoot sports, or look up info on UA-cam, or leave nice comments for people like me! :) Cheers from Canada. Have fun with all your great gear.
That was the most wonderful explanation of the histogram I've seen to date. I confess that I shoot RAW, but nevertheless, I really enjoyed this explanation. I'm also liking this Lumix G9. I have a Sony A77m2 and once I get a chance I just might go for the G9.
What a delight to get your comment Jose! Thank you. Yes, definitely give the G9 a test. I quite like it, though it's a bit heavier than all my other mirrorless cameras. p.s. I still sometimes do shoot raw, especially for client work, (I don't always use them, but I shoot them for insurance) but for everyday photos and my skateboarding action shots, I don't really need to. Cheers!
I learnt something new today. I didn't realise that the yellow was a warning. I also found out that it goes yellow when the exposure compensation is not set to zero.
Enjoyed your video on the G9 Marlene, just changing over from Nikon D810, so there is a lot to discover about this Lumix camera. Just a thought on white balance, if you are outside and are looking to ajust your white balance, GRASS (if there is some available), is a good indicator. Keep up the videos on the G9 i need all the help i can get.
Great tip about the grass Lloyd. Thanks!! Hoping to get another G9 video out soon. Been so busy with other photo work I don't have any energy left to make many videos lately.
I have just subscribed and I appreciate your videos. I purchased my G9 used and it had the green line across the screen to help centre your shots, well, somehow I managed to turn it off and I don't know how I did it. Could you tell me where that is in the menu so that I can turn that horizontal assist line back on? Thank you.
Thanks for subscribing. That is actually the Level Gauge to show you if your shot is level with the horizon. Push the DISP button (when in picture capture mode) and it will cycle through all the display views. Enjoy your G9.
Thanks for your very informative videos which have helped me understand my G9 much better. I’ve a question on the histogram. Changes in shutter speed don’t seem to show on the histogram in manual mode (other than changing colour from yellow to white). It’s easy to see the effects of changes in Aperture Priority mode (ie clipped highlights/lowlights) but the histogram doesn’t react the same way in Manual. Am I missing something here?
Actually it does react the same way in M mode. If it's yellow you are either under or overexposed. In the other modes since they are fully auto you are often in the white zone - more so in Aperture priority. But occasionally you will see yellow when in Aperture priority mode. But if you put it in Shutter Priority mode it's easier to go out of range for the f-stops as there are less of them. Example, you're in a dark room and want to shoot at 1/1000s or any faster shutter speed, you will see that the histogram is yellow, which means you're not properly exposed for that scene. Try it for yourself and you will see! Final note: Whether yellow or white the live histogram graph shows the range of light to dark. And it's best to check your histogram after taking the photo to be sure of your exposure. Hope that helps!
Many thanks for that. I use G9 for stills and Gh5 and G7 for video. I use parade graph in video but the histogram still helps in the G7. I agree re in camera, I just need to have the confidence/skill to nail ETTR with the G9 as I shoot RAW and a lot of my stuff is high contrast (against sky) or shutter speed critical (props and rotors look silly stopped). As you know, blinkies are fine in camera, then you need to drag it up post to compensate. Good series, I will keep watching. I find myself leaning more toward manual and/or preset start points for certain scenarios, and for video manual everything. Thanks, good stuff.
Hi Chris, It sounds like you have things well in hand. I definitely flop from jpg to raw when the situation calls for it. Recently been shooting a lot of birds using high shutter speed and Auto ISO, and sometimes that causes too much noise in lower light. So I'm really better off shooting raw and then using some noise reduction in post. Anyhow it's a constant learning curve and that's of course, what makes it fun, challenging, and keeps us all striving for better methods of capturing our vision. Thanks for stopping by to chat!
@@ImageMaven the current issue is a real case of practice. Following a flying aircraft at round 400mm at a low enough shutter speed to get decent prop blur...I keep trying 😁
Marlene, I am very grateful about your helpful videos for the G9 since I am not a professional photographer. I would appreciate a video about photographing landscapes in jpg with grad ND filters which I do not use so far. Herzliche Grüße from the Black Forest in Germany, Regina
Hello from Canada, Regina, I have not used a graduated ND filters since I shot film. But you can make similar adjustments in the editing process with digital files both in jpg and raw. I'm planning a video on shooting landscapes in jpg vs shooting them in raw and I will make sure to cover this topic for you. Thanks for stopping by.
Hi Marlene. May I have your opinion? I am so much still learning this stuff and when I get brave and apply my "new knowledge" on being a photographer it screws up my pictures LOL LOL LOL. I think I am using my G9 Histogram incorrectly. During my shoots lately I stay concerned about the Histogram always being White. I am wondering now if the Histogram should always be White and distributed in some fashion entirely along the horizontal axis, because in Nature and Wildlife I rarely ever see evenly balanced colors and brightness or pure white anywhere. And my "shadows and shade photos", despite "Mr. Histogram's" Yellow/Orange Warning, occasionally come out with fantastic focus, detail, and absolute beauty. I think my "perfect Histogram" photos are coming out plain looking. You can probably tell by now I am bothered by the Histogram telling me how to take my pictures. LOL. Does this make any sense to you? I'm kind of fumbling that way. If the Sun comes out, I am out the door with my camera looking for pretty birds and scenery and figuring out the rest along the way. Can you share any wisdom with me on this one, please? Thank you Marlene!
I worry more about the histogram "after" taking the photo. Don't forget that the histogram is an approximation in the Recording Mode. I take a test shot or two and check to see where the problem areas are. And I look for the clipping warnings (over or underexposure blinking areas) after the shot as well, if I feel there is a problem. Sometimes it's hard to tell when you're in the bright sun if the exposure is good so that's when it's most handy to use the histogram. If the clipping (especially highlights) doesn't affect my subject, then I ignore it, unless that area is integral to my composition. I can brighten shadows using iDynamic in camera, or in post production using LR or Luminar Flex. My go-to image editing apps. Don't stress too much. You will learn over time. Just takes practice.
at when you explain the yellow histogram feature, is this the reason why we use zebra lines? is it to help us see and resolve the yellow histogram to a white histogram? I'm trying to understand how to quickly decide if it is too dark or too light without having to check the jpeg every single time for correct exposure and moving the shutter speed back and forth and guessing.
Not necessarily. Your viewfinder can get pretty cluttered that way too. Some people like Zebra stripes (especially for video) and others use the Histogram. Try them both and decide which you like best. Don't forget to set up the Zebra limits as they can be set to 80% or 100%. And, once you have your exposure set, you shouldn't need to do many changes unless the light is changing drastically.
On watching a Scott Kelby video this week, he stated that a good tip for landscape photography is to programme a camera function button to zoom into the camera display to see whether the image taken is sharp, rather than having to tap and or click camera buttons several times to see if the image is pin sharp. So is this actually possible on the G9 please? Thank you.
Hmm. Never tried that. You might find the answer in the owner's manual. I looked but couldn't find anything. eng-ca.faq.panasonic.com/app/operating_manuals
@@ImageMaven thank you for your quick response, having looked at the possible functions of setting buttons actions, I cannot see any that will highlight the zoom function either. Many thanks for responding to my question.
Great video, went through all of your G9 videos yesterday 😅 I recently tried to figure out how to capture the most dynamic range with the G9. If it's better to expose to the right, left, take an HDR, use a curve or just leave it the way the cameras suggests. In my testing I found out that using a curve have me the best results. It gave me the greates dynamic range plus staying true to the actual colors. Underexposing gave me an extreme magenta colorshift in the shadows, overexposing it lost some detail in the highlights an made the picture kinda grey, with HDR the whole scene had a green tint to it and just properly exposed as the camera sees it it was okay, but had less details at both end of the spectrum compared to the curve one. Would you agree?
Great to hear you're experimenting with all this. I think that depends on the scene, the lighting, and your own personal preferences of how you like your images to look. Having said that, I often find with my outdoor shots on bright days, that I tend to lift the shadows in the tone curve in LR after. So, I've now started using the iDynamic feature of the Lumix G9. I keep it on Auto as I find it does a good job of opening up of the shadows "in-camera" now so there's no need to fix it after the shot is taken. And I get a wider dynamic range. You'll figure out what works best for your own photographic style and preferences. Good for you to work on this, though. Most people wouldn't and would do it all in LR or other image editing app. Thanks for sharing your test results.
Excelent and cleat Perhaps if you remade G9 teachins on S5ii .there would be receptive audiance. G100 and G9 have settings to chang Shadow and Highlight .. full control of settings for "in camera editing" .. avoiding post editing "tweeks" If you are having Creator block S5ii. ?
Yes, I'm sure there is an audience for that. I expect there are lots of similar functions in both Lumix systems. Hopefully Panasonic will do proper training videos on the S5 cameras. But it won't be me, as I won't be going back to full frame after leaving it behind 10+ years ago. Too big. Too heavy. Too expensive. Even if I was offered that camera and some good lenses for free, I wouldn't want it at this stage. But thanks for thinking of me! Still holding out for a G9 Mk2.
Marlene. As a recent owner of a panasonic g9 your you tube videos have been a lifeline to many of us. They are easy to understand and well explained. Tasks are simple to learn and understand. Can you please help me with a problem that has occurred within the past week?. When I look through through the viewfinder the view/picture is in mono. But when I push the shutter button and view the picture on the lcd screen the photo is in colour which is what I want. I’ve read the manual many times but fail to see an explanation why my viewfinder view is always in mono. It’s probably me being an idiot and I’ve inadvertently changed a setting without knowing. Can you help. Many thanks David Wallace.
Well that is a new one for me David! I suspect it has to do with your Filter Settings Menu on page 1/5 on your main camera settings menu (top one). It gives you the option to record without filter so that’s where the two versions comes in. Make sure that it’s off. Let me know if that solves your problem. Cheers!
The other possibility is that you shot in RAW with a Monochrome Photo Style. I think that's likely the case. RAW files don't have Photo Styles built-in. You need to choose them in editing in LR or PS or other program that opens and edits raw files.
Hi Marlene, I might be little late but my problem is still an issue with Lumix-cameras: Why the histogram is not displaying the value of the current exposure adjustments? It might turn yellow (wow!) but doesn't change the value. If using M/A/S, I need to see instantly the effect of the adjustment. This was no problem with my previous Canon DSLRs. Hope to get your thoughts about this; thanks in advance.
LOL. Thanks Nick ;) I'll certainly look into doing a landscape stacking video. That would be a great topic. Right now things are still covered in snow in these parts but I'll keep that in the back of my mind when conditions change. Not that I can't take a good snow photo, but it's always nicer to be working on these outdoor videos when it's a bit warmer and drier out there. As it is, I'm chomping at the bit to do some outdoor skateboarding photos and it sure is a long wait this year! Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Hello Marlene. I'm really enjoying your channel. You make learning so easy! Question - which manual driver mode do you recommend I use when doing a sunrise timelapse? And what manual settings could I use in order to compensate for the changing light? I just can't seem to get it right. Thank you so much in advance :)
Hmm, not sure I know what you mean by Manual Driver. If you want a constant Aperture, use Aperture priority. The camera will change exposure though and the camera meter will re-calibrate as the light changes so you won't get a "darker" photo. If you want to see the darkness fall, then use Manual Mode and keep the exposure set to the "starting point". I have a feeling that's what you're looking for. But as always I suggest you keep experimenting for yourself and see what works best for the type of look you're going for. Keep me posted! Cheers!
Thanks Marlene. I just bought the G9 and I'm looking forward to taking images with it. One question: setting aside the white/yellow colors for a moment, in your video when we're looking at the histogram in the viewfinder/monitor display, it actually looks pretty good in terms of exposure, but then when we look at a preview of the image we see the first shot was underexposed, and the histogram in this view shows this - which is entirely different than what the histogram in the display mode was showing us. Why is this? And why would the display mode histogram be so off/inaccurate when compared to the histogram we see when reviewing/previewing the image? It seems that both histograms should match? And a comment: I often set my camera to create both JPEG and Raw files for each shot. I often use the jpeg images for quick reviews on my computer (and sometimes to print out 'test' images) and then I mostly use my Raw files for final processing, where I have much more control and options. However, with all of the latest versions of Photoshop I can also process a JPEG file in the Raw engine, and it gives me many of the same options as with a Raw file. Not perfect, but it does make the JPEG images much more workable. All the best, David
Hi David, I have no idea why the histogram doesn't match the captured photo exactly, but it may have to do with the type of metering or whether you shoot raw or jpg, focal length, etc. In any case I rely on the captured image for the best results. As for shooting jpg+raw, I started doing this once I got my first Lumix as I was afraid of jpg. AFter a couple of weeks I realized that I no longer used the raw files as the camera did an awesome job of processing the images. And it saved me hours and hours of time. As long as your WB and exposure are close to perfect you will get excellent jpg images out of your G9. Make sure you have it on BEST quality jpg. And of course big enough jpg files to do something with. Those are the critical factors (in my opinion). I currently shoot jpgs 99% of the time. I let the Lumix G9 to the work. I do cataloguing and minor tweaks in LR. And I add pizzaz to my photos in Luminar AI. Thanks for your questions.
Marlene, Wanted to try and capture a meteor shower last night. Tried to set up for time lapse and failed miserably. Please do a session on setting up time lapse and what can be done in camera for post processing... btw I'm a big fan of ypur tutorials!!!
Hi Dwight... check out Emily over at Micro Four Nerds. She does a lot of night and time lapse photography. She's your best bet. I work overnight shifts, so I don't get out much after the sun sets so I don't have much experience or opportunity. ua-cam.com/users/MicroFourNerds Thanks for stopping by!
hi Marlene, I purchased G9, just a technical question, while in manual mode, you can not change the aperture from the camera, you only set the aperture from the lens. is that correct? thank you.
Hi Arif, Incorrect. You can change the aperture in camera. If you happen to have a lens that has an external aperture ring you can also do it there. Hope that helps. What lens did you get with it?
@@arifkizilay So on that lens you can set it using the f/stop ring on the lens. Or you can put the lens on A on the ring, and then use the camera dials to control the aperture. So I guess my modified answer is; it depends on the lens and how you have it set up if it's a manual fstop lens.
Marlene, Can you see if the image is properly exposed by just looking at the monitor display on the DSLR or mirrorless camera? If not, what are you seeing when you look through the lens of a DSLR or the sensor of a mirrorless camera?
Hi Jacob! Great to see you again. Yes you can get a pretty good idea if exposure is good when you "half-press" the shutter button while looking at the back LCD or the eyepiece LCD (on my Lumix cameras). Personally though, I trust what the histogram shows me *after* the picture is shot because sometimes it's hard to judge the LCD screen or eye viewfinder, especially outdoors on a bright day. Also, If you have any warnings like a flashing f/stop or shutter speed number, then you are definitely not exposed properly. Or like I mentioned in the video, you can have your live view histogram activated during picture taking, and if it's "yellow" in colour, then something is wrong. Not sure about dSLRs. It's been too long since I sold mine, and I'm sure every camera system is a bit different. Hope that helps. Thanks for your question.
One point you missed is that as with the exposure meter, the histogram is not infallible, e.g. the black cat in a coal cellar syndrome. However, a great review of a useful tool. Thanks
@@symzg5995 It's a personal preference. Makes no difference. Simpler for some people to understand the concept of adding and removing light, rather than trying to figure out which f-stop or shutter speed they need to go to. And it's more convenient to use it, even for pros. Personally I like the +/- button as I can be on Shutter priority outdoors in changing light and still have a + ev setting for all my photos rather than having to always push buttons. I'd rather concentrate on my composition and capturing the peak moment.
Yes, I have a few. I'm actually scripting one right now. Release should be July 10. Here's my Luminar playlist. Some are with the older version so watch the newest ones first. ua-cam.com/play/PL46y8pfDCaW6qsmS3UlsZ03dIO5fCIz8m.html
Is it ok that the “mountains” in the histogram are going out of frame up top even when it is centered and white? Hope that makes sense. I can’t seem to find the answer to this question..
Yes, that's perfectly okay. Just means you have "more" of that particular colour. If you look at your rgb histograms you may be able to identify which colour has more. Great question!
Your g9 video's are excellent. Anything my tiny little brain doesn't understand. I can just have you explain to me. And the g9 is an amazing camera. Sorry I didn't understand what was the point of the yellow and white on the histogram i know the exposure was wrong on the yellow but why is saying its correct on the camera.
If the live view histogram isn't showing the exposure value, what is it actually showing? I'm new to Panasonic so I'm a bit confused by how my GX85 shows live view histogram compared to other systems.
The histogram shows the tonal range in a scene -- range of dark (on the left side of graph) to light (on the right side) -- whether live or after the image is taken. This is true in all cameras, not just Panasonic. The actual exposure (f-stops, shutter and ISO) are displayed numerically in other menus. Push the Display button on the camera in either picture taking, or picture playback mode to see all the info on your files.
Marlene Hielema the raws has the super squished histogram, but I was able to adjust the exposure. I just didn’t realize how different the jpeg histogram was to raw. At least the highlights were well protected!
Yes, that's a good way of looking at it ;) You've got exposure insurance with raw files. A stop or two at each end depending on the image. One of the benefits of shooting raw.
I noticed when I put my flash on the G9 camera the histogram goes yellow. Is there anyway to adjust the histogram so it turns white when I have the flash or speed light on the camera?
Yellow indicates over or under-exposure, compared to what the meter suggests. Underexposure is likely why you're using the flash. Change/play with your exposure settings. Just experiment. What happens to the histogram when you take the photo? Sometimes I purposely over or under expose. What the histogram tells you is that according to the camera meter, there is a problem. But if it's still a good picture, yellow or white doesn't matter. The final result does.
Thanks, Marlene. Just to clarify, the histogram is white and then as soon as I mount the speedlite on the G9 the histogram turns yellow. I tried different exposure settings while the speedlite is mounted, but the histogram remains yellow. But like you say, as long as the picture comes out properly exposed that’s the bottom line. And it does.
Sometimes in auto you are still under or overexposed. So the warning is handy. But I still prefer to look at my histogram "after" the photo is taken. I find that more accurate. Thanks for watching Lloyd!
@@ImageMaven Just in general. How does the metering selection affect the histogram reading? I generally use center weight for stills and video, but new to the camera, so have much to learn.
Centre weighted is old school with modern camera metering systems. I use multi-pattern for most shooting situations and I use exposure compensation and push it to the + side if I notice my histogram is reading "dark". I typically shoot in Shutter priority mode when shutter speed is the important aspect of the shot, as in sports. I use Aperture priority if I want to control depth of field. And I use manual mode if I'm in the studio. I use the histogram as a backup in all cases to check if my exposure is within the range I'm looking for, keeping in mind that hot spots will show overexposure, but they may or may not matter, depending on the scene. That happens more with bright day sunlight where you have "hot" reflections from buildings, cars, puddles of water, etc.
The thing i specifically wanted to know was not explained. On AWB it has an adjust button. When you click on this it shows the grid with white in the centre and diff colors at the corners. Then it has a set button. Show me the procedure to come up with a custom AWB and how to save it please on another video. I'll be waiting ... unless someone else explains it better in the meantime.
Conclusion: You are showing that the G9 histogram does not work in preview mode but only gives you a yellow light warning if you are underexposing or overexposing. Very disappointing for someone who is used to use histograms on other cameras.
I learn more from your videos in a few minutes than I do in hours with the manual or searching other websites. Thanks so much and keep the great G9 videos coming!
Thank you so much Sherry. Happy to hear this. I published a new G9 video today actually.
that's because she says everything carefully and she does not over complicate things. Other channels want to impress you with technical know how and that's not what I need.
Of all the youtube videos for this camera, yours is so easy to understand.
So lovely to hear this. Thank you, Christine.
Thank you. This has become my favorite channel on learning - and the more I watch - the more I realize how little I know. At least - these videos are interesting and actually entertaining.
Thank so much Bernhard. You made my day. And this is an older one! 😊
@@ImageMaven Your creations are timeless.
With the Lumix G9 - you picked one that has a hugh customer base. First owners and those who buy used or refurbished.
As a novice image taker I thank you for your amazing work, which has been phenomenally useful!!
You're very welcome! And I really needed to hear this today. Cheers 🤗
And thanks for the Super!
Just got a Lumix G95 for an early bday present. Previously had an old Nikon hand-me-down. Still feel like a begginer at times, but wanted to let you know that I find your instruction very good! Thank you!
Good choice Krista. Lumix are very user friendly. And the menus are similar in all of their cameras so my videos should help you out for a while. Thanks for stopping by.
Marlene, Thank you for all of your advice yesterday to resolve my camera problem. After your input, speaking to experts at Panasonic and many expert friends who were all unable to resolve the problem. Panasonic told me to send my camera to their service center for repair. When I spoke to my local camera shop about posting it, the young girl in the shop tried to help me and she suggested trying the creative mode. When I checked, it was in a low mono setting (probably inadvertently by me) I changed it to a mode with colour and that resolved the problem. Both viewfinder and LCD screen are now both in unison. Thanks for your quick response and help yesterday. We learn something everyday.
Great. Thanks for following up! That's exactly as I thought. If you shoot RAW+jpg this will definitely happen when using the filters.
Thank you Marlene, another great clip and teaching us how to use proper exposure with a histogram. I honestly did not know that this exists, and I also learned that you can scroll down when you push the display botton…thank you, very helpful!
Wonderful to hear this. Cameras are full of deep menus these days. Glad you learned about a couple more features. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for another fantastic video! The way you combine great examples with clear information, and a light, fun atmosphere makes learning this otherwise intimidating stuff both easy and enjoyable. Thanks again!
Thank you for your kind words. Means a lot.
Hi Marlene. I have tuned my jpegs on my Fz330 to death in camera, having watched all Graham Houghton's videos. I'm now thinking of getting the G9 and have just found your channel and subscribed. This is music to my ears to have someone maximising ooc jpegs and I hope to learn about the extra g9 features too. You have a very clear and informative style. Very helpful.
Great to hear this. I hope you enjoy your G9. It's a big change from a bridge camera physically, but the old familiar Lumix menus are still around, with some great additions. Graham is an excellent teacher. Hopefully I meet your expectations. Cheers!
Wow Marlene! I'm so glad I've found your channel...I'm not much of a techie, but was able to update firmware for the first time today, and now know what the yellow histogram means. Love my G9; I'm so glad you are here to teach!
Great to hear this Deborah! Thanks for letting me know. Congrats on your Lumix G9 (I love mine too) and for updating your firmware! Yippee!
The face of Lumix G9 brand !!
Thanks Marlene, your G9 videos are fantastic. Same here -I made my living as a wedding photographer for several years.
Hi Roberto, Great to meet you! Glad to hear you enjoy my videos.
This is one nifty feature. Tried it and got stunning results. That histogram color info is a really neat indicator! great tip. thanks!
Yes, the Histogram is something that everyone should learn to use and understand. Thanks for watching.
Lockdown revision tutorial, thank you again. Appreciate all you do.
I appreciate all the comments from you. Thanks for taking the time to dig in to your camera. Teaching is useless unless acted upon. Cheers!
Having just recently gotten a G9 this series of videos is great! You're really inspiring me to try just shooting JPEG as well. I was immediately impressed with the JPEG quality of this camera, so that makes me very receptive. Luminar, yes! That software is amazing.
Great to hear it Jason. It took me a long time to let go of raw shooting. But now I'm 99% jpg. I'll shoot jpg+raw if I'm nervous or it's a really fussy client. But when I do I still end up using the jpgs. For me Luminar is for the wild and creative edits. For the regular stuff, I'm sticking to LR CC. I rarely use Photoshop anymore. Thanks for your comments. Cheers!
Great stuff again! Like many others, I always learn something new from your videos. One tip I have used with my G9: As you said, it is not nice to have to look at the histogram all the time and I think the back button requires too much toggling. I have set up histogram on/off to the lower front button (another advantage of the G9). That way it is easy to toggle it on and off.
That’s a great tip Mikka. Thanks for sharing it. 😀
Thank you for helping us get more out of our cameras!
So nice to hear this Sean!
Thanks Marlene. I received my G9 yesterday and your explanations are perfect for me.
Thanks Marlene, some great tips here. I didn't know about the yellow warning on the histogram so valuable advice..
Okay don't tell anyone, but I just figured that out myself while making this video... ;) Cheers!
Me too. Thanks for showing us this.
Hi Marlene,
thank you so much for sharing all those G9 videos!
I really appreciate and like them - so far I only watched the first 5 or so, but I continue for sure.
Also, I like your "pre-processing and jpeg passion" - This is what actually prompted me to start this comment.
I started traditional film photography (please people, stop calling this "analog"! - there is nothing analog in those cameras, besides the light meter, perhaps) as a kid with some instant cameras. Later I moved on to use SLRs (first my older sister's Praktica, later a Canon AE1program) and also developed some B/W pictures in our school's lab. From this time I also still remember the 1 over focal length as a rule of thumb for handheld exposure time :-))
Later this hobby was pushed to the back a bit by work and family, but since a few years I am now back into taking pictures, now on MFT. I had an Olympus OM-D E-M10 II first, moved to a GX9, which I am now trading for a G9, for which I am impatiently waiting while already enjoying your tutorials - delivery is expected still this week.
About your videos and philosophy I particularly like the practical and useful advice you give.
On one side I am amazed by the amount of options and settings one can make on those modern cameras (am I allowed to call a 2 year old model like G9 still modern today?), on the other side I am a bit scared by the amount of options and settings that one has to make on those modern cameras to get the best out of it.
You are helping me a lot to try new options (many of the G9 features also work for the GX9) and understand the details much better than from reading the manuals - which we all always do, you know!
Thanks again, stay safe and stay healthy!
Hi Thomas, Thank you for your comments. Sounds like we have similar backgrounds in film and digital photography. I'm actually looking at the GX9 to use as a smaller more portable camera to keep in my bag at all times. My super small GM5 is nearly done for. It's been banged around my bag for the past 3 years and has had thousands of shutter clicks. I was hoping to get the GX9 to replace it. Have fun with your new G9! Hopefully you like it as much as I do. Take care and Stay Safe!
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Thank you.
Hi John, Glad it was helpful! Thank you for letting me know.
I am really enjoying your series on the G9. I recently bought the G9 and really like it. But there is a lot to learn to master it. Thanks for your help!
Thanks so much for letting me know, Steven. There is definitely a lot to this camera. I've just barely scratched the surface so there will be more videos to come!
Cheers Marlene, greatly appreciate your input into the G9 setups and features. Lumix should hire you mate. Your so easy to understand and great tutor for us lazy boys/girls :)
I'm about to get my second G9 with a 12mm Summilux Lens for my indoor sporting events. Struggled with the f2.8's so am looking forward to getting over all those issues. All the best and have to say love your work mate. Greetings from Down Under in Sunny Queensland.
Hi Dean, Thanks for writing. Appreciate your comments. That fast 12mm f/1.4 lens you're getting will be awesome for indoor sports! Hey, if you were super lazy you wouldn't shoot sports, or look up info on UA-cam, or leave nice comments for people like me! :) Cheers from Canada. Have fun with all your great gear.
That was the most wonderful explanation of the histogram I've seen to date. I confess that I shoot RAW, but nevertheless, I really enjoyed this explanation. I'm also liking this Lumix G9. I have a Sony A77m2 and once I get a chance I just might go for the G9.
What a delight to get your comment Jose! Thank you. Yes, definitely give the G9 a test. I quite like it, though it's a bit heavier than all my other mirrorless cameras. p.s. I still sometimes do shoot raw, especially for client work, (I don't always use them, but I shoot them for insurance) but for everyday photos and my skateboarding action shots, I don't really need to. Cheers!
Very helpful on Histograms! Thank you.
Great to hear Jim. Thank you for watching and letting me know.
Very concise and to the point, excellent video.
Thanks so much for watching and letting me know! Cheers!
Thank you.
I knew all I needed to know about the histogram, except how to move it.
Oh, Lady! you're so good at teaching us! Thank you so much. God bless you!
Very kind of you to say Marcelo. Thank you!
Thank you. I was trying to figure out how to turn this off forever.
I learnt something new today. I didn't realise that the yellow was a warning. I also found out that it goes yellow when the exposure compensation is not set to zero.
Yes, you're right. That's also a good reminder when the exposure compensation is being used. Thanks for your comment. :)
This is quality content 👍 Thank you. My G9 will arrive tomorrow. Subscribed.
Enjoyed your video on the G9 Marlene, just changing over from Nikon D810, so there is a lot to discover about this Lumix camera. Just a thought on white balance, if you are outside and are looking to ajust your white balance, GRASS (if there is some available), is a good indicator. Keep up the videos on the G9 i need all the help i can get.
Great tip about the grass Lloyd. Thanks!! Hoping to get another G9 video out soon. Been so busy with other photo work I don't have any energy left to make many videos lately.
Thanks for this, super clear explanation and I feel like I really understand Histograms now!
Great to hear it! Thanks for letting me know.
Great tutorial. can you tell me when I am using playback mode page 3 of 5 says no information can be displayed.
Sounds like the photos were taken in the Creative modes.
I have just subscribed and I appreciate your videos. I purchased my G9 used and it had the green line across the screen to help centre your shots, well, somehow I managed to turn it off and I don't know how I did it. Could you tell me where that is in the menu so that I can turn that horizontal assist line back on? Thank you.
Thanks for subscribing. That is actually the Level Gauge to show you if your shot is level with the horizon. Push the DISP button (when in picture capture mode) and it will cycle through all the display views. Enjoy your G9.
Thanks very much, Marlene. :)
Good video. I haven't used the histogram because I didn't know to use it. Now I do.
And I just hit the Subscribe button.
Awesome! Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for your very informative videos which have helped me understand my G9 much better. I’ve a question on the histogram. Changes in shutter speed don’t seem to show on the histogram in manual mode (other than changing colour from yellow to white). It’s easy to see the effects of changes in Aperture Priority mode (ie clipped highlights/lowlights) but the histogram doesn’t react the same way in Manual. Am I missing something here?
Actually it does react the same way in M mode. If it's yellow you are either under or overexposed. In the other modes since they are fully auto you are often in the white zone - more so in Aperture priority. But occasionally you will see yellow when in Aperture priority mode. But if you put it in Shutter Priority mode it's easier to go out of range for the f-stops as there are less of them. Example, you're in a dark room and want to shoot at 1/1000s or any faster shutter speed, you will see that the histogram is yellow, which means you're not properly exposed for that scene. Try it for yourself and you will see! Final note: Whether yellow or white the live histogram graph shows the range of light to dark. And it's best to check your histogram after taking the photo to be sure of your exposure. Hope that helps!
Thanks!
Many thanks for that. I use G9 for stills and Gh5 and G7 for video. I use parade graph in video but the histogram still helps in the G7. I agree re in camera, I just need to have the confidence/skill to nail ETTR with the G9 as I shoot RAW and a lot of my stuff is high contrast (against sky) or shutter speed critical (props and rotors look silly stopped). As you know, blinkies are fine in camera, then you need to drag it up post to compensate. Good series, I will keep watching. I find myself leaning more toward manual and/or preset start points for certain scenarios, and for video manual everything. Thanks, good stuff.
Hi Chris, It sounds like you have things well in hand. I definitely flop from jpg to raw when the situation calls for it. Recently been shooting a lot of birds using high shutter speed and Auto ISO, and sometimes that causes too much noise in lower light. So I'm really better off shooting raw and then using some noise reduction in post. Anyhow it's a constant learning curve and that's of course, what makes it fun, challenging, and keeps us all striving for better methods of capturing our vision. Thanks for stopping by to chat!
@@ImageMaven the current issue is a real case of practice. Following a flying aircraft at round 400mm at a low enough shutter speed to get decent prop blur...I keep trying 😁
Marlene, I am very grateful about your helpful videos for the G9 since I am not a professional photographer. I would appreciate a video about photographing landscapes in jpg with grad ND filters which I do not use so far.
Herzliche Grüße from the Black Forest in Germany, Regina
Hello from Canada, Regina, I have not used a graduated ND filters since I shot film. But you can make similar adjustments in the editing process with digital files both in jpg and raw. I'm planning a video on shooting landscapes in jpg vs shooting them in raw and I will make sure to cover this topic for you. Thanks for stopping by.
Vielen Dank, I am looking forward to it. In fall I will travel to your country, to Nova Scotia. I want to be prepared for all that beauty!
@@reginaschwarz7443 Do you shoot raw files at all? And what do you use for editing your photos?
thoughtful and helpful. thank you for the effort and the sharing. thumbs up.
Thanks for watching and letting me know. Cheers!
Thank you for your help! :)
You're welcome! :)
Great tutorial! Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
love your videos thank you
You’re so welcome!
Hi Marlene. May I have your opinion? I am so much still learning this stuff and when I get brave and apply my "new knowledge" on being a photographer it screws up my pictures LOL LOL LOL. I think I am using my G9 Histogram incorrectly. During my shoots lately I stay concerned about the Histogram always being White. I am wondering now if the Histogram should always be White and distributed in some fashion entirely along the horizontal axis, because in Nature and Wildlife I rarely ever see evenly balanced colors and brightness or pure white anywhere. And my "shadows and shade photos", despite "Mr. Histogram's" Yellow/Orange Warning, occasionally come out with fantastic focus, detail, and absolute beauty. I think my "perfect Histogram" photos are coming out plain looking. You can probably tell by now I am bothered by the Histogram telling me how to take my pictures. LOL. Does this make any sense to you? I'm kind of fumbling that way. If the Sun comes out, I am out the door with my camera looking for pretty birds and scenery and figuring out the rest along the way. Can you share any wisdom with me on this one, please? Thank you Marlene!
I worry more about the histogram "after" taking the photo. Don't forget that the histogram is an approximation in the Recording Mode. I take a test shot or two and check to see where the problem areas are. And I look for the clipping warnings (over or underexposure blinking areas) after the shot as well, if I feel there is a problem. Sometimes it's hard to tell when you're in the bright sun if the exposure is good so that's when it's most handy to use the histogram. If the clipping (especially highlights) doesn't affect my subject, then I ignore it, unless that area is integral to my composition. I can brighten shadows using iDynamic in camera, or in post production using LR or Luminar Flex. My go-to image editing apps. Don't stress too much. You will learn over time. Just takes practice.
at when you explain the yellow histogram feature, is this the reason why we use zebra lines? is it to help us see and resolve the yellow histogram to a white histogram? I'm trying to understand how to quickly decide if it is too dark or too light without having to check the jpeg every single time for correct exposure and moving the shutter speed back and forth and guessing.
Not necessarily. Your viewfinder can get pretty cluttered that way too. Some people like Zebra stripes (especially for video) and others use the Histogram. Try them both and decide which you like best. Don't forget to set up the Zebra limits as they can be set to 80% or 100%. And, once you have your exposure set, you shouldn't need to do many changes unless the light is changing drastically.
On watching a Scott Kelby video this week, he stated that a good tip for landscape photography is to programme a camera function button to zoom into the camera display to see whether the image taken is sharp, rather than having to tap and or click camera buttons several times to see if the image is pin sharp.
So is this actually possible on the G9 please?
Thank you.
Hmm. Never tried that. You might find the answer in the owner's manual. I looked but couldn't find anything. eng-ca.faq.panasonic.com/app/operating_manuals
@@ImageMaven thank you for your quick response, having looked at the possible functions of setting buttons actions, I cannot see any that will highlight the zoom function either. Many thanks for responding to my question.
Very helpful. I'm at my new #1 goto camera site. Thank you
Thank you so much for watching! Cheers.
Great video, went through all of your G9 videos yesterday 😅
I recently tried to figure out how to capture the most dynamic range with the G9. If it's better to expose to the right, left, take an HDR, use a curve or just leave it the way the cameras suggests. In my testing I found out that using a curve have me the best results. It gave me the greates dynamic range plus staying true to the actual colors.
Underexposing gave me an extreme magenta colorshift in the shadows, overexposing it lost some detail in the highlights an made the picture kinda grey, with HDR the whole scene had a green tint to it and just properly exposed as the camera sees it it was okay, but had less details at both end of the spectrum compared to the curve one. Would you agree?
Great to hear you're experimenting with all this. I think that depends on the scene, the lighting, and your own personal preferences of how you like your images to look. Having said that, I often find with my outdoor shots on bright days, that I tend to lift the shadows in the tone curve in LR after. So, I've now started using the iDynamic feature of the Lumix G9. I keep it on Auto as I find it does a good job of opening up of the shadows "in-camera" now so there's no need to fix it after the shot is taken. And I get a wider dynamic range. You'll figure out what works best for your own photographic style and preferences. Good for you to work on this, though. Most people wouldn't and would do it all in LR or other image editing app. Thanks for sharing your test results.
@@ImageMaven Does iDynamic apply only to jpegs, or to raw shots as well?
P.S. Do you prefer standard, vivid, natural or a custom setting?
@@smalltownbloomington1533 jpgs and video. But you can do those same adjustments to raw files when you process them.
@@smalltownbloomington1533 Those Photo Styles (vivid, natural etc) can be set up in the camera (for jpgs and video) or in RAW editing as well.
Excelent and cleat Perhaps if you remade G9 teachins on S5ii .there would be receptive audiance.
G100 and G9 have settings to chang Shadow and Highlight .. full control of settings for "in camera editing" .. avoiding post editing "tweeks" If you are having Creator block S5ii. ?
Yes, I'm sure there is an audience for that. I expect there are lots of similar functions in both Lumix systems. Hopefully Panasonic will do proper training videos on the S5 cameras. But it won't be me, as I won't be going back to full frame after leaving it behind 10+ years ago. Too big. Too heavy. Too expensive. Even if I was offered that camera and some good lenses for free, I wouldn't want it at this stage. But thanks for thinking of me! Still holding out for a G9 Mk2.
Marlene. As a recent owner of a panasonic g9 your you tube videos have been a lifeline to many of us. They are easy to understand and well explained. Tasks are simple to learn and understand. Can you please help me with a problem that has occurred within the past week?.
When I look through through the viewfinder the view/picture is in mono. But when I push the shutter button and view the picture on the lcd screen the photo is in colour which is what I want. I’ve read the manual many times but fail to see an explanation why my viewfinder view is always in mono. It’s probably me being an idiot and I’ve inadvertently changed a setting without knowing. Can you help. Many thanks David Wallace.
Well that is a new one for me David! I suspect it has to do with your Filter Settings Menu on page 1/5 on your main camera settings menu (top one). It gives you the option to record without filter so that’s where the two versions comes in. Make sure that it’s off. Let me know if that solves your problem. Cheers!
The other possibility is that you shot in RAW with a Monochrome Photo Style. I think that's likely the case. RAW files don't have Photo Styles built-in. You need to choose them in editing in LR or PS or other program that opens and edits raw files.
@@ImageMaven Unfortunately that did not work the filter setting was already set to off. Will try your other solution now.
Hi Marlene, I might be little late but my problem is still an issue with Lumix-cameras:
Why the histogram is not displaying the value of the current exposure adjustments? It might turn yellow (wow!) but doesn't change the value.
If using M/A/S, I need to see instantly the effect of the adjustment.
This was no problem with my previous Canon DSLRs.
Hope to get your thoughts about this; thanks in advance.
That’s kind of beyond my scope as I don’t work for Lumix so I suggest you ask this question on the @Lumix Cameras UA-cam channel.
Keep them coming Gran, I got my new G9 and very happy with it, and love the videos. Can you do a video on stacking Landscape photos, if you have time.
LOL. Thanks Nick ;) I'll certainly look into doing a landscape stacking video. That would be a great topic. Right now things are still covered in snow in these parts but I'll keep that in the back of my mind when conditions change. Not that I can't take a good snow photo, but it's always nicer to be working on these outdoor videos when it's a bit warmer and drier out there. As it is, I'm chomping at the bit to do some outdoor skateboarding photos and it sure is a long wait this year! Thanks for watching. Cheers!
I look forward to that, and to any other video you have on the G9, ............. your new nick name is, Great HistoGran.
Hahaha! 😂
Hello Marlene. I'm really enjoying your channel. You make learning so easy! Question - which manual driver mode do you recommend I use when doing a sunrise timelapse? And what manual settings could I use in order to compensate for the changing light? I just can't seem to get it right. Thank you so much in advance :)
Hmm, not sure I know what you mean by Manual Driver. If you want a constant Aperture, use Aperture priority. The camera will change exposure though and the camera meter will re-calibrate as the light changes so you won't get a "darker" photo. If you want to see the darkness fall, then use Manual Mode and keep the exposure set to the "starting point". I have a feeling that's what you're looking for. But as always I suggest you keep experimenting for yourself and see what works best for the type of look you're going for. Keep me posted! Cheers!
@@ImageMaven Thank you so much for your prompt reply! I will try it out next week and let you know how I get on...
Thanks Marlene. I just bought the G9 and I'm looking forward to taking images with it.
One question: setting aside the white/yellow colors for a moment, in your video when we're looking at the histogram in the viewfinder/monitor display, it actually looks pretty good in terms of exposure, but then when we look at a preview of the image we see the first shot was underexposed, and the histogram in this view shows this - which is entirely different than what the histogram in the display mode was showing us.
Why is this? And why would the display mode histogram be so off/inaccurate when compared to the histogram we see when reviewing/previewing the image? It seems that both histograms should match?
And a comment: I often set my camera to create both JPEG and Raw files for each shot. I often use the jpeg images for quick reviews on my computer (and sometimes to print out 'test' images) and then I mostly use my Raw files for final processing, where I have much more control and options.
However, with all of the latest versions of Photoshop I can also process a JPEG file in the Raw engine, and it gives me many of the same options as with a Raw file. Not perfect, but it does make the JPEG images much more workable.
All the best, David
Hi David, I have no idea why the histogram doesn't match the captured photo exactly, but it may have to do with the type of metering or whether you shoot raw or jpg, focal length, etc. In any case I rely on the captured image for the best results.
As for shooting jpg+raw, I started doing this once I got my first Lumix as I was afraid of jpg. AFter a couple of weeks I realized that I no longer used the raw files as the camera did an awesome job of processing the images. And it saved me hours and hours of time. As long as your WB and exposure are close to perfect you will get excellent jpg images out of your G9. Make sure you have it on BEST quality jpg. And of course big enough jpg files to do something with. Those are the critical factors (in my opinion). I currently shoot jpgs 99% of the time. I let the Lumix G9 to the work. I do cataloguing and minor tweaks in LR. And I add pizzaz to my photos in Luminar AI. Thanks for your questions.
Marlene, Wanted to try and capture a meteor shower last night. Tried to set up for time lapse and failed miserably. Please do a session on setting up time lapse and what can be done in camera for post processing... btw I'm a big fan of ypur tutorials!!!
Hi Dwight... check out Emily over at Micro Four Nerds. She does a lot of night and time lapse photography. She's your best bet. I work overnight shifts, so I don't get out much after the sun sets so I don't have much experience or opportunity. ua-cam.com/users/MicroFourNerds Thanks for stopping by!
@@ImageMaven Thank you!!!
hi Marlene, I purchased G9, just a technical question, while in manual mode, you can not change the aperture from the camera, you only set the aperture from the lens. is that correct? thank you.
Hi Arif, Incorrect. You can change the aperture in camera. If you happen to have a lens that has an external aperture ring you can also do it there. Hope that helps. What lens did you get with it?
@@ImageMaven leica/lumix 12 mm-1.4
@@arifkizilay So on that lens you can set it using the f/stop ring on the lens. Or you can put the lens on A on the ring, and then use the camera dials to control the aperture. So I guess my modified answer is; it depends on the lens and how you have it set up if it's a manual fstop lens.
@@ImageMaven thank you very much, I got it.
Great Video!
Marlene, Can you see if the image is properly exposed by just looking at the monitor display on the DSLR or mirrorless camera? If not, what are you seeing when you look through the lens of a DSLR or the sensor of a mirrorless camera?
Hi Jacob! Great to see you again. Yes you can get a pretty good idea if exposure is good when you "half-press" the shutter button while looking at the back LCD or the eyepiece LCD (on my Lumix cameras). Personally though, I trust what the histogram shows me *after* the picture is shot because sometimes it's hard to judge the LCD screen or eye viewfinder, especially outdoors on a bright day. Also, If you have any warnings like a flashing f/stop or shutter speed number, then you are definitely not exposed properly. Or like I mentioned in the video, you can have your live view histogram activated during picture taking, and if it's "yellow" in colour, then something is wrong. Not sure about dSLRs. It's been too long since I sold mine, and I'm sure every camera system is a bit different. Hope that helps. Thanks for your question.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question, Marlene.
Great videos, gracias Thank you!!
One point you missed is that as with the exposure meter, the histogram is not infallible, e.g. the black cat in a coal cellar syndrome. However, a great review of a useful tool. Thanks
Thanks for filling in the missing information!
Would the exposure compensation work when shooting manual?
No. In Manual mode you adjust exposure manually.
@@ImageMaven ok, that's for the reply
Would it be better and more convenient then to manually adjust the exposure or do it using the exposure compensation button???
@@symzg5995 It's a personal preference. Makes no difference. Simpler for some people to understand the concept of adding and removing light, rather than trying to figure out which f-stop or shutter speed they need to go to. And it's more convenient to use it, even for pros. Personally I like the +/- button as I can be on Shutter priority outdoors in changing light and still have a + ev setting for all my photos rather than having to always push buttons. I'd rather concentrate on my composition and capturing the peak moment.
@@ImageMaven oh ok. Thanks for the explanation
Hi. Why doesn’t the histogram move left and right when dialing the shutter speed up or down like it does on other cameras?
Mine does. And if you're out of range (ran out of f-stops) it turns yellow also. Maybe you are using shutter priority? Or AUTO ISO? or both.
Do you have any videos using Luminar?
Yes, I have a few. I'm actually scripting one right now. Release should be July 10. Here's my Luminar playlist. Some are with the older version so watch the newest ones first. ua-cam.com/play/PL46y8pfDCaW6qsmS3UlsZ03dIO5fCIz8m.html
Do g90 has this feature
Yes, All cameras have a histogram.
Is it ok that the “mountains” in the histogram are going out of frame up top even when it is centered and white? Hope that makes sense. I can’t seem to find the answer to this question..
Yes, that's perfectly okay. Just means you have "more" of that particular colour. If you look at your rgb histograms you may be able to identify which colour has more. Great question!
Marlene Hielema Thank you thank you!
Your g9 video's are excellent. Anything my tiny little brain doesn't understand. I can just have you explain to me. And the g9 is an amazing camera. Sorry I didn't understand what was the point of the yellow and white on the histogram i know the exposure was wrong on the yellow but why is saying its correct on the camera.
I'm happy to hear that my teaching style resonates with you Howard. Enjoy your G9!
If the live view histogram isn't showing the exposure value, what is it actually showing? I'm new to Panasonic so I'm a bit confused by how my GX85 shows live view histogram compared to other systems.
The histogram shows the tonal range in a scene -- range of dark (on the left side of graph) to light (on the right side) -- whether live or after the image is taken. This is true in all cameras, not just Panasonic. The actual exposure (f-stops, shutter and ISO) are displayed numerically in other menus. Push the Display button on the camera in either picture taking, or picture playback mode to see all the info on your files.
Well that explains why all my photos in Hawaii were under exposed 😭. Thanks for the tutorial.
Oh dear. Hopefully you can save them with a bit of photo editing.
Marlene Hielema the raws has the super squished histogram, but I was able to adjust the exposure. I just didn’t realize how different the jpeg histogram was to raw. At least the highlights were well protected!
Yes, that's a good way of looking at it ;) You've got exposure insurance with raw files. A stop or two at each end depending on the image. One of the benefits of shooting raw.
I noticed when I put my flash on the G9 camera the histogram goes yellow. Is there anyway to adjust the histogram so it turns white when I have the flash or speed light on the camera?
Yellow indicates over or under-exposure, compared to what the meter suggests. Underexposure is likely why you're using the flash. Change/play with your exposure settings. Just experiment. What happens to the histogram when you take the photo? Sometimes I purposely over or under expose. What the histogram tells you is that according to the camera meter, there is a problem. But if it's still a good picture, yellow or white doesn't matter. The final result does.
Thanks, Marlene. Just to clarify, the histogram is white and then as soon as I mount the speedlite on the G9 the histogram turns yellow. I tried different exposure settings while the speedlite is mounted, but the histogram remains yellow. But like you say, as long as the picture comes out properly exposed that’s the bottom line. And it does.
.So your saying if The histogram shows up yellow the auto exposure was wrong. Then why shoot in auto, if you have to fix it ?
Sometimes in auto you are still under or overexposed. So the warning is handy. But I still prefer to look at my histogram "after" the photo is taken. I find that more accurate. Thanks for watching Lloyd!
What about. Color my G7 seems to have a cool blue straight out of camera
Adjust your white balance.
Marlene Hielema why I shoot raw now to adjust white balance
What meter setting do you use?
For what exactly? Varies depending on the shooting situation. Need more info before I can answer your question.
@@ImageMaven Just in general. How does the metering selection affect the histogram reading?
I generally use center weight for stills and video, but new to the camera, so have much to learn.
Centre weighted is old school with modern camera metering systems. I use multi-pattern for most shooting situations and I use exposure compensation and push it to the + side if I notice my histogram is reading "dark". I typically shoot in Shutter priority mode when shutter speed is the important aspect of the shot, as in sports. I use Aperture priority if I want to control depth of field. And I use manual mode if I'm in the studio. I use the histogram as a backup in all cases to check if my exposure is within the range I'm looking for, keeping in mind that hot spots will show overexposure, but they may or may not matter, depending on the scene. That happens more with bright day sunlight where you have "hot" reflections from buildings, cars, puddles of water, etc.
@@ImageMaven Thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍
Dearest Marlene you could put subtitles on all your videos, so I can follow you better with the translation. Thanks.
The thing i specifically wanted to know was not explained. On AWB it has an adjust button. When you click on this it shows the grid with white in the centre and diff colors at the corners. Then it has a set button. Show me the procedure to come up with a custom AWB and how to save it please on another video. I'll be waiting ... unless someone else explains it better in the meantime.
I guess that's probably because this video is about the Histogram..... Maybe this will help. ua-cam.com/video/EIst1ImweuY/v-deo.html
Fun!
Conclusion: You are showing that the G9 histogram does not work in preview mode but only gives you a yellow light warning if you are underexposing or overexposing. Very disappointing for someone who is used to use histograms on other cameras.
Alternatively, ignore the graph, simply make sure it's white and you're good to go. That seems really helpful to me.