This video saved me from starting down a path of trying to fix an issue that i didnt have! 93 325i was overheating after upper hose came off due to not being tightened down properly. This must have allowed a ton of air into the system because I bled the system as shown in this video and no more overheating!! Still going to replace the t-stat and and do a full coolant flush just to be on the safe side but kudos to the maker of this vid! GREAT STUFF!
Just a sidenote to the questions related to the T-stat on the forums; a T-stat doesn't actually completely cut off water flow when closed. There's always a small bypass opening to allow water through. So even with a cold engine with a closed T-stat, there will still be water flowing around, al be it not that much. Just general FYI.
If you are ever in Plattsburgh NY I will buy you a beer. I had suffered a couple miserable winters w/very little heat. Thank god for heated seats. I was ready to spend $250 on a heater valve. Purged the air using this method and now heat is HOT! Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for talking about squeezing the tubes. I had trouble bleeding the air bubbles out. I was able to squeeze the tubes and push all the air out and presto! heat! Thanks again!
I tried this method after replacing the thermostat in my 328i.. When I squeeze the hoses pretty much just air comes out or the coolant level will rise and then decrease. Any suggestions? Sorry- kind of a car n00b just looking for help.
Great! Let me ask you something, is it normal after running the car to observe small amount of hot water coming out of the vent? My expansion tank level looks normal, so I assume I am not loosing water from the system, but I don´t know what is the normal condition for the vent.
Hey, I realize your video is almost 3 years old, however, wanted to express my thanks. I am going to try this with my car tomorrow. I have a '99 328is E36 and the upper hose fitting on my radiator cracked. I replaced the radiator and put in coolant thinking that would be all I had to do. I have no heat and the car overheats after running for awhile. Anyway, I'll keep your vid on save to follow your instructions. I'll keep you posted...I'm sure you care...LOL!! Seriously, thanks!
If someone has drained the whole system instead of just the radiator, wouldn't you need to take a little different approach? It seems like it would be bad for the water pump to start it up and then add coolant like you did in the beginning, because there would be no coolant in the system initially.
Seems I've got a hole in the bleeder valve. While I was driving, the temperature temporarily shot up, then went back down, then a short while later the car started steaming a bit. I was able to get it to my shop. He pointed out the hole in the bleeder cap and then told me they don't just sell those. Low and behold they do! If I just replace that bleeder valve screw, should everything be ok, or should I be adding more coolant too? Curious to see what he's going to try to tell me tomorrow. Might be looking for a new mechanic.
Gregory Prior I replaced my expansion tank. This solved my problem which sounds like yours. I got the expansion tank at a junk yard. I would have coolant come out the top of the screw while driving. I replaced the radiator cap too. This solved my newest coolant problems. Also don't over tighten the bleeder screw. I bought a brass bleeder screw, but it stripped my treads when hot. The plastic one is good. =)
What if when you take the bleed screw off and a bunch of steamed coolant comes out instead of water bubbles? Does that mean there is just ALOT of pressure so it's just releasing it?
If the object is to bleed air out of the system, why is there such a rush to refit the bleed screw while it is doing exactly what you want, bleeding air?
I've bled the system correctly but it builds up so much pressure the upper hose looks like it's gonna bust. After 24hrs it still has so much pressure when I check the level fluid comes gushing out. Tried loosening the expansion tank cap a little but all that does is allow fluid to bubble out when driving. Checked for blown head gasket with the block tester but no exhaust was entering the system. Did leak down test and compression test. Both tests were okay no issues with those. I've been trying to figure this out for months. I keep getting the same problem with the excessive pressure or fluid coming out of the cap. It's really nerve racking and I'm fed up with this car. Any help would be nice but after watching every Damn bleed video and spending close to $100 on fluid. I've about had it....might just have the car crushed just because I'm so pissed off at it.
@@carsbydre1014 after taking off the cylinder head I found cracks going from exhaust ports to water jackets. It's a common issue for these inline 6 motor. But yeah I figured it out
@@carsbydre1014 I ended up putting the original head back on with new head studs and gasket. It still gets me to and from work without getting hot but it's not the kinda car I can drive for several hours anymore
Hmmm that sucks. And you couldnt spot this when you tested the coolant for exhaust gasses? I think ill have the same problem because the system is pressurising
@@carsbydre1014 I was using my bmw to deliver pizza. A $800 car that's what a pizza guy does buy a cheap car and fix it and drive it until it falls apart. After 4-5 hours of delivering the car would slowly get hot. So I checked under the hood after seeing smoke. It was boiling over at the cap. Vapor/steam/milky spray all over the expansion tank. I went home those two nights. On the second night I took the tester to the exhaust pipe to see if it would work. Holding it about 5 inches above the exhaust pipe I pumped the indicator fluid started turning yellow so I knew the tester was working. I then went to the front....... You know what long story short. Pop your hood.... Remove the expansion cap... Fill with distilled water not tap... Let car warm up for like 5 mins... If it bubbles then it needs a head gasket
my heater is hot. every time I squeeze the hoses it suites out bubbles and no stream. also when I go check my coolant level when cold it'll sit on the cold level but when I open the expansion cap it rises to the top of the tank? comes back down as soon as I start the car. do I have an air pocket
I didn't listen to the video at all. too long of a video for something that could of been explained in 30 sec. don't expect everyone to pay attention to crap. but thanks for the info about the dye..
This video saved me from starting down a path of trying to fix an issue that i didnt have! 93 325i was overheating after upper hose came off due to not being tightened down properly. This must have allowed a ton of air into the system because I bled the system as shown in this video and no more overheating!! Still going to replace the t-stat and and do a full coolant flush just to be on the safe side but kudos to the maker of this vid! GREAT STUFF!
Engine sounds like a thousand shopping trolleys rolling down a hill.
dhalsim1
LMAO
holy crap that is the greenest antifreeze i have ever seen in my life.its like the slime off old school nickelodeon
Of all the videos Ive watched this was the only one that got me un airlocked... Thanks!!!
Great video! Exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks man!
worked great for my 318ti.....blowing out really hot air from heater....needed to purge air after putting in a new radiator. thanks for the video.
I must have a lot of air cause this shit is taking forever
The man, the myth, the legend
Just a sidenote to the questions related to the T-stat on the forums; a T-stat doesn't actually completely cut off water flow when closed. There's always a small bypass opening to allow water through. So even with a cold engine with a closed T-stat, there will still be water flowing around, al be it not that much. Just general FYI.
not all t stats. some t stats like ones you get on ebay or cheap ones dont have that
If you are ever in Plattsburgh NY I will buy you a beer. I had suffered a couple miserable winters w/very little heat. Thank god for heated seats. I was ready to spend $250 on a heater valve. Purged the air using this method and now heat is HOT! Thanks for the vid.
i feel he exact fucking way bro im about to blow my truck up
Thanks for talking about squeezing the tubes. I had trouble bleeding the air bubbles out. I was able to squeeze the tubes and push all the air out and presto! heat! Thanks again!
I tried this method after replacing the thermostat in my 328i.. When I squeeze the hoses pretty much just air comes out or the coolant level will rise and then decrease. Any suggestions? Sorry- kind of a car n00b just looking for help.
Great! Let me ask you something, is it normal after running the car to observe small amount of hot water coming out of the vent? My expansion tank level looks normal, so I assume I am not loosing water from the system, but I don´t know what is the normal condition for the vent.
Thanks for the vid
Hey, I realize your video is almost 3 years old, however, wanted to express my thanks. I am going to try this with my car tomorrow. I have a '99 328is E36 and the upper hose fitting on my radiator cracked. I replaced the radiator and put in coolant thinking that would be all I had to do. I have no heat and the car overheats after running for awhile. Anyway, I'll keep your vid on save to follow your instructions. I'll keep you posted...I'm sure you care...LOL!! Seriously, thanks!
Squeeze like you never squeezed that hose before. You have to get that gushing action coming from that hole!
The bleeder screw on the thermostat is on the e46
I understand this is an old video but how come on that little hole on my expansion tank it's just continusly coming out in a stream?
Thanks , nice video
If someone has drained the whole system instead of just the radiator, wouldn't you need to take a little different approach? It seems like it would be bad for the water pump to start it up and then add coolant like you did in the beginning, because there would be no coolant in the system initially.
Seems I've got a hole in the bleeder valve. While I was driving, the temperature temporarily shot up, then went back down, then a short while later the car started steaming a bit. I was able to get it to my shop. He pointed out the hole in the bleeder cap and then told me they don't just sell those. Low and behold they do!
If I just replace that bleeder valve screw, should everything be ok, or should I be adding more coolant too?
Curious to see what he's going to try to tell me tomorrow. Might be looking for a new mechanic.
Gregory Prior I replaced my expansion tank. This solved my problem which sounds like yours. I got the expansion tank at a junk yard. I would have coolant come out the top of the screw while driving. I replaced the radiator cap too. This solved my newest coolant problems. Also don't over tighten the bleeder screw. I bought a brass bleeder screw, but it stripped my treads when hot. The plastic one is good. =)
What if when you take the bleed screw off and a bunch of steamed coolant comes out instead of water bubbles? Does that mean there is just ALOT of pressure so it's just releasing it?
enriqueflowerz alot of air
If the object is to bleed air out of the system, why is there such a rush to refit the bleed screw while it is doing exactly what you want, bleeding air?
what about the thermostat bleed screew?
Here's a question, how do they do this at the factory? There's no way they squeeze the hoses etc. They have a completely dry system to start.
K Kampy My bet would be it involves 1) a specialty tool of some sort, and 2) the application of vacuum. ;)
K Kampy lol looks like he's milking a cow.
I've bled the system correctly but it builds up so much pressure the upper hose looks like it's gonna bust. After 24hrs it still has so much pressure when I check the level fluid comes gushing out. Tried loosening the expansion tank cap a little but all that does is allow fluid to bubble out when driving. Checked for blown head gasket with the block tester but no exhaust was entering the system. Did leak down test and compression test. Both tests were okay no issues with those. I've been trying to figure this out for months. I keep getting the same problem with the excessive pressure or fluid coming out of the cap. It's really nerve racking and I'm fed up with this car. Any help would be nice but after watching every Damn bleed video and spending close to $100 on fluid. I've about had it....might just have the car crushed just because I'm so pissed off at it.
Ever solved this problem? Have exactly the same
@@carsbydre1014 after taking off the cylinder head I found cracks going from exhaust ports to water jackets. It's a common issue for these inline 6 motor. But yeah I figured it out
@@carsbydre1014 I ended up putting the original head back on with new head studs and gasket. It still gets me to and from work without getting hot but it's not the kinda car I can drive for several hours anymore
Hmmm that sucks. And you couldnt spot this when you tested the coolant for exhaust gasses? I think ill have the same problem because the system is pressurising
@@carsbydre1014 I was using my bmw to deliver pizza. A $800 car that's what a pizza guy does buy a cheap car and fix it and drive it until it falls apart. After 4-5 hours of delivering the car would slowly get hot. So I checked under the hood after seeing smoke. It was boiling over at the cap. Vapor/steam/milky spray all over the expansion tank. I went home those two nights. On the second night I took the tester to the exhaust pipe to see if it would work. Holding it about 5 inches above the exhaust pipe I pumped the indicator fluid started turning yellow so I knew the tester was working. I then went to the front.......
You know what long story short.
Pop your hood....
Remove the expansion cap...
Fill with distilled water not tap...
Let car warm up for like 5 mins...
If it bubbles then it needs a head gasket
Can you do this with a 528i and, have the cap open while car is running?
Shantkumar Daniel yes
So I've done this and still no warm air in the cabin and engine overheats after 30 mins of driving! I think it's time to call it a day...
have you fixed that and how so? My car is overheating like that as well
thermostat
Didnt you have to mix 50/50 coolant water:?
Thought BMW coolant was Blue?
my heater is hot. every time I squeeze the hoses it suites out bubbles and no stream. also when I go check my coolant level when cold it'll sit on the cold level but when I open the expansion cap it rises to the top of the tank? comes back down as soon as I start the car. do I have an air pocket
Katelyn Mets probably
Katelyn Mets turn your heat on the highest settings and let the car run until reach operation temp, start with the cap off.
summertime Lake Erie antifreeze
when that hapens you still have air bubles in the sistem
Wrong antifreeze? Am I the only one who sees this 😂
It’s blue BMW coolant. I added a leak detector that turns it green.
Green coolant, big problems
Brute, if you didnt listen to the video cuz it was to long. How did you know he mentioned anything about the dye? Com on man
Wow my car was overheating cause of this...my mechanic pulled the hose and bled it wronf
you cant hear a word your saying :/
I didn't listen to the video at all. too long of a video for something that could of been explained in 30 sec. don't expect everyone to pay attention to crap. but thanks for the info about the dye..