Don't forget our favourite 'A' frame joint will make a nasty clonk when pulling away if it's worn out Mike. And so much fun to change when the bolts are rusted solid!
Yes but the question posed was how much play in the drive train - shafts, axles etc A frame - drop the whole assembly by removing the fulcrum nut and then the 6 bolts holding the A frame to the chassis and then do the job on the bench
Whoever said Clunk Click every trip surely had a Landrover. On a more serious note. One thing that had me puzzled and very worried was a really bad clunk or twang when setting off after parking. It had me foxed for ages, but it was so simple. The bloke had adjusted the transmission brake right up like you would a normal axle brake set up. What was happening was because the handbrake has a leading and a trailing shoe set up no matter whether you set off in forward or reverse the leading shoe would jam and then release with a bang. It sounded really bad and this can happen if the handbrake has not been totally released to the off position by just one click when setting off after applying the parking brake. Thick gear oil on the shoes can make it worse as it sticks the shoes to the drum quite hard. Many thanks for the past years videos Mike. I hope that things grow from strength to strength for you in 2022. All the best from Yorkshire Rob.
I went through the clunking search which got worse on a trip to Central Kalahari Botswana this year. My 2016 Heritage 110 Puma has solid side shaft/flanges and were not really that bad. I checked the A frame bolts for wear and replaced them, they were fine in any case. At the end of the day I replaced the diff (under extended warranty) which solved the problem. Point is it took me forever to find the problem and LR dealership was no help.
I wish I had seen this video 6mths ago, chasing the clucks and lurking transmission I changed, half shafts, front and back, diffs, prop shafts, bushes and finally the A frame ball joint. The butchers bill was very high, but she does drive a lot smoother now and the Limited Slip Diff are great in winter Sweden. The thing that made the biggest difference was changing the A frame ball joint. Although I could not feel any play, the cluncking stopped and the back end stopped wandering on gravel forrest tracks.
Most of us get under our LRs on the drive or in a shed (I'm lucky to have a pit), just tightly chock the wheels then check out of gear then in gear... the in gear will tell more about the state of the centre diff and the transfer gear and mainshaft..
"It's available in your country, or you can get it from Landrover" about the lump of wood on the brake had my girlfriend chuckling from the sofa. She thinks you have a wicked sense of humour. I think you know an awful lot about Landrovers...
I have several lengths of rhinoboard (with a bit of baler twine to hang them up with, as I'm always losing them) as brake testers when attaching a trailer. Could be nice little earner...
Mike. Is there any variance with models of Land/Range Rovers with LT230-T's or later Borg Warner Viscous Couplings ? Maybe any worn splines on axles too ! V.
If you were working at Halewood before Mike's time then you were building Fords! They didn't start building Land Rovers there until 2006/7 and that was the Freelander! Not a single Defender ever been built there. Try pulling someone else's chain.
Weirdest one I ever had was a noise on my last Defender which sounded like I was dragging a length of chain along behind me. I never did figure out what was causing it. I was working away from home at the time, I'd come home, drive the defender for a couple of months and it'd start making the noise at some point, I'd look for it, find nothing obvious and then I'd go back to work and then the process would repeat. My best guess would be that something in the handbrake or gear linkage, perhaps, was responsible although I could never get anything to rattle as loudly or obviously on inspection.
On a later 7-seater Puma with the new seats, I had a rattling noise, too. Turned out it was a rear seat belt bolt. Underneath there is a steel construction that's tightened to the tub by said bolt and makes a hell of a noise if loose...
Hi Mike on a totally different subject. We have a freelander 2 which has decided to flatten the battery after about 4 days sometimes overnight. I have put a new battery and alternator on it , next i will change the starter. Any advice would be much appreciated
I think you need to get hold of a DC clamp meter I have one of these and they are excellent www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094-UT210E-Current-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=dc+current+clamp+meter&qid=1640703231&sr=8-9 You need to clamp round the main battery cable and see what is happening to the current flow and how many amps it is drawing Then a simple matter of pulling fuses to see when the draw stops - then you can isolate the problem and rectify what is going on Electrical problems are a nightmare to resolve by writing !
G'day Mike. Another informative video. An of topic question if i may. How does one go about getting the code to 'unlock' the stereo in my 1996 Disco1? I changed out the battery under the bonnet and it wouldnt work without a code. LR hasnt got a clue. was hoping yourself or a fellow subscriber would be able to help. Its the old one with a tape deck lol. Cheers in advance, Brett.
The only way I could get into them is find a friendly service department who was willing to help - they gave me a code back in the day But why not fit something modern like a single DIN unit? www.amazon.ca/Character-Receiver-Assistant-Bluetooth-Charging/dp/B08464VRML/ref=sr_1_7?crid=4OP9TQHUE8BT&keywords=car%2Bradio%2Bsingle%2Bdin&qid=1641649042&sprefix=car%2Bradio%2Bsingle%2BDIN%2Caps%2C327&sr=8-7&th=1
Good morning Mike. On the note of drivetrain noise. My 109 makes a growling noise when not under load. Accelerating or downhill with the foot of the accelerator everything sounds fine. I have changed drive flanges, drive shafts, propshaft and differential bearings on the salisbury differential carrier. All to no avail. I was thinking it might be the sunn and planetary gears. The other thought was the output shaft of the gearbox....Any ideas? Kind regards Dexter.
@@BritannicaRestorations I haven't touched it yet but it's been doing ever since I have been giving it as a present from my brother..... he swears to God he never touched it..... so next job on the list.... all my fears never had a gearbox apart 😱😱😱😱. But its leaking like a strainer anyway. 1.5l of ep 90 to 1000 miles and the overdrive screams like a banshee to... so next jobs are made out for me 25 years BT service and the rest in private negligence... We will see when the jobs done. Thanks for the advice
I would love to have a barn floor.... the roof on my workshop is sky high and wet or dry cold or hot depending on the weather. Doesn't stop me. You should see the face of my German neighbours...
Mike, unless you disconnect the props from the transfer box you don't know if the diffs are limiting the play observed in the .transfer box or vice versa.
have had a clonk in my 110 for about the last 3 years has gotten real bad in the last year have already done all the axles and flanges and rebuilt the gearbox chucked a d2 transfer case in to gear it up and have done the a frame bush a friend that knows a lot more about defenders than me said there is a crush washer or tube in the rear diff that gets worn over time that can cause it
Drive train clunks can come from anywhere - if you have done the shafts and flanges, remove the prop where it goes into the axle and check for play - a good tight diff should only move from 12 o'clock to 1/2 o'clock
Don't forget our favourite 'A' frame joint will make a nasty clonk when pulling away if it's worn out Mike. And so much fun to change when the bolts are rusted solid!
lots of joy and fun with the rusted bolts. What a curse of a job !!
Yes but the question posed was how much play in the drive train - shafts, axles etc
A frame - drop the whole assembly by removing the fulcrum nut and then the 6 bolts holding the A frame to the chassis and then do the job on the bench
Very helpful. Good perspective on acceptable play as well as the point about heat expansion and binding.
Whoever said Clunk Click every trip surely had a Landrover. On a more serious note. One thing that had me puzzled and very worried was a really bad clunk or twang when setting off after parking. It had me foxed for ages, but it was so simple. The bloke had adjusted the transmission brake right up like you would a normal axle brake set up. What was happening was because the handbrake has a leading and a trailing shoe set up no matter whether you set off in forward or reverse the leading shoe would jam and then release with a bang. It sounded really bad and this can happen if the handbrake has not been totally released to the off position by just one click when setting off after applying the parking brake. Thick gear oil on the shoes can make it worse as it sticks the shoes to the drum quite hard. Many thanks for the past years videos Mike. I hope that things grow from strength to strength for you in 2022. All the best from Yorkshire Rob.
The flange and the shaft banging together eh? Saucy
A Land Rover genuine parts 4" x 2" wooden brake locking device costs £799.00.
Yes - I copied mine..
That sounds like a black Friday deal.
I went through the clunking search which got worse on a trip to Central Kalahari Botswana this year. My 2016 Heritage 110 Puma has solid side shaft/flanges and were not really that bad. I checked the A frame bolts for wear and replaced them, they were fine in any case. At the end of the day I replaced the diff (under extended warranty) which solved the problem. Point is it took me forever to find the problem and LR dealership was no help.
I wish I had seen this video 6mths ago, chasing the clucks and lurking transmission I changed, half shafts, front and back, diffs, prop shafts, bushes and finally the A frame ball joint. The butchers bill was very high, but she does drive a lot smoother now and the Limited Slip Diff are great in winter Sweden. The thing that made the biggest difference was changing the A frame ball joint. Although I could not feel any play, the cluncking stopped and the back end stopped wandering on gravel forrest tracks.
Most of us get under our LRs on the drive or in a shed (I'm lucky to have a pit), just tightly chock the wheels then check out of gear then in gear... the in gear will tell more about the state of the centre diff and the transfer gear and mainshaft..
And when checking the diffs, putting the tcase in neutral might help as well.
"It's available in your country, or you can get it from Landrover" about the lump of wood on the brake had my girlfriend chuckling from the sofa. She thinks you have a wicked sense of humour. I think you know an awful lot about Landrovers...
just a quickie .. and only the tip .. thanks Mike
I have several lengths of rhinoboard (with a bit of baler twine to hang them up with, as I'm always losing them) as brake testers when attaching a trailer. Could be nice little earner...
Larning and larning new stuf.
Cheers King Mike. 🥃🎄
Hi Mike 👋 thanks again for sharing information and more tips 😀 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🚌🚌🚌
No problem 👍
Thank you mike, I’m now off to do exactly what you’ve shown 👍
Have fun!
Hi Mike, do you have a part number for the Landrover piece of wood? Lincoln
Great advice again. Thanks Mike. 👍🏻😊
Top video. This stuff is great for us, Mike!
Glad you think so!
Mike. Is there any variance with models of Land/Range Rovers with LT230-T's or later Borg Warner Viscous Couplings ? Maybe any worn splines on axles too ! V.
i worked on the landy production line in halewood - before your time - yes I know a lot about LR - lots wrong about your "clonking" diagnosis
Well Secpacetc, Share your wisdom.
If you were working at Halewood before Mike's time then you were building Fords! They didn't start building Land Rovers there until 2006/7 and that was the Freelander! Not a single Defender ever been built there. Try pulling someone else's chain.
Weirdest one I ever had was a noise on my last Defender which sounded like I was dragging a length of chain along behind me.
I never did figure out what was causing it.
I was working away from home at the time, I'd come home, drive the defender for a couple of months and it'd start making the noise at some point, I'd look for it, find nothing obvious and then I'd go back to work and then the process would repeat.
My best guess would be that something in the handbrake or gear linkage, perhaps, was responsible although I could never get anything to rattle as loudly or obviously on inspection.
On a later 7-seater Puma with the new seats, I had a rattling noise, too. Turned out it was a rear seat belt bolt. Underneath there is a steel construction that's tightened to the tub by said bolt and makes a hell of a noise if loose...
Hi Mike on a totally different subject. We have a freelander 2 which has decided to flatten the battery after about 4 days sometimes overnight. I have put a new battery and alternator on it , next i will change the starter. Any advice would be much appreciated
I think you need to get hold of a DC clamp meter
I have one of these and they are excellent
www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094-UT210E-Current-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=dc+current+clamp+meter&qid=1640703231&sr=8-9
You need to clamp round the main battery cable and see what is happening to the current flow and how many amps it is drawing
Then a simple matter of pulling fuses to see when the draw stops - then you can isolate the problem and rectify what is going on
Electrical problems are a nightmare to resolve by writing !
G'day Mike. Another informative video.
An of topic question if i may.
How does one go about getting the code to 'unlock' the stereo in my 1996 Disco1?
I changed out the battery under the bonnet and it wouldnt work without a code.
LR hasnt got a clue. was hoping yourself or a fellow subscriber would be able to help.
Its the old one with a tape deck lol.
Cheers in advance, Brett.
The only way I could get into them is find a friendly service department who was willing to help - they gave me a code back in the day
But why not fit something modern like a single DIN unit?
www.amazon.ca/Character-Receiver-Assistant-Bluetooth-Charging/dp/B08464VRML/ref=sr_1_7?crid=4OP9TQHUE8BT&keywords=car%2Bradio%2Bsingle%2Bdin&qid=1641649042&sprefix=car%2Bradio%2Bsingle%2BDIN%2Caps%2C327&sr=8-7&th=1
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike. I was attempting to keep it original lol.
Once the upgrades/mods start, lol.
Wondering if that wood "available from your LandRover dealer" leaks any oil.
Well if it doesn't, there's none in 😂
Great vid great way to check all the best donny
Glad you enjoyed it
Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse but what is that front bumper? Custom?
If you beat a dead horse you’re in front! 😆 🐎🏇🏾 You meant whip. I know. 👍🏻🙏🏽🦘
Yes - nice design
Good morning Mike. On the note of drivetrain noise. My 109 makes a growling noise when not under load. Accelerating or downhill with the foot of the accelerator everything sounds fine. I have changed drive flanges, drive shafts, propshaft and differential bearings on the salisbury differential carrier. All to no avail. I was thinking it might be the sunn and planetary gears. The other thought was the output shaft of the gearbox....Any ideas?
Kind regards Dexter.
Is the shimming of the transfer box correct?
@@BritannicaRestorations I haven't touched it yet but it's been doing ever since I have been giving it as a present from my brother..... he swears to God he never touched it..... so next job on the list.... all my fears never had a gearbox apart 😱😱😱😱. But its leaking like a strainer anyway. 1.5l of ep 90 to 1000 miles and the overdrive screams like a banshee to... so next jobs are made out for me 25 years BT service and the rest in private negligence...
We will see when the jobs done. Thanks for the advice
Very interesting
I think so too!
That floor was terrible....you'd never see my Barn looking like that.... :)
But honey it's cold outside!
I would love to have a barn floor.... the roof on my workshop is sky high and wet or dry cold or hot depending on the weather. Doesn't stop me. You should see the face of my German neighbours...
Mike, unless you disconnect the props from the transfer box you don't know if the diffs are limiting the play observed in the .transfer box or vice versa.
Put the transfer in neutral
@@BritannicaRestorations Now this is making a lot of sense.
The book says 1/8th of a turn is fine.
It's available in your country, or from land rover! Hilarious!
have had a clonk in my 110 for about the last 3 years has gotten real bad in the last year have already done all the axles and flanges and rebuilt the gearbox chucked a d2 transfer case in to gear it up and have done the a frame bush a friend that knows a lot more about defenders than me said there is a crush washer or tube in the rear diff that gets worn over time that can cause it
Drive train clunks can come from anywhere - if you have done the shafts and flanges, remove the prop where it goes into the axle and check for play - a good tight diff should only move from 12 o'clock to 1/2 o'clock