An index for this video: 0:00 Summary of the repair work to do. 1:36 Disassembling the movement. 4:14 "Somebody put a nail in there" (instead of a tapered pin) 4:44 Serious wear on the anchor. 5:31 Removing the levers; finding an odd piece of wire. 7:40 Removing the pins that hold the plates together. 8:22 The tension spring that holds the count wheel on. Removing the count wheel. 8:50 The pin that holds a motion works gear. 9:45 Separating the plates and removing the wheels. 10:11 The worn strike train second wheel's cam. How to tell the surface has been worn. 11:19 The worn escape wheel trundles. Removing the time train second wheel. 11:50 How to remove the drop lever. 12:13 How to disassemble the great wheels. 14:01 Wear on the great wheel and how that can make the click fail. Finding a different style click on the other great wheel. 15:36 The fully disassembled movement, in bins. 15:53 A conically worn pivot that must be replaced. How to replace it. 18:06 A worn pivot and trundles on the escape wheel. Worn pivots on a great wheel. 20:12 More worn pivots and trundles. 20:44 Detailed wear on the cam. 21:50 Worn warning wheel pin and trundles. 22:29 How the worn cam and drop lever affects the bird door. 26:55 The anchor wear may be difficult to grind out. 28:32 How he's going to replace the trundles; why he doesn't like to pull the shroud. 30:03 Removing the worn trundles. 36:11 The plan for replacing the trundles, in detail. 39:45 Pushing worn trundles out without cutting them. 40:45 Xuron Corp cutter used to cut the pinion wire, to make new trundles. 41:27 Measuring, cutting, inserting, engraving, and locking the new trundles. 51:08 Repivoting the escape wheel, polishing its new pivots. 1:01:28 Removing the hexagonal center shaft of a great wheel. Outlining the repair work to do. 1:05:21 Replacing a worn ratchet tooth. 1:11:00 Test-fitting the new hexagonal shaft 1:11:36 Dismantling the second great wheel. 1:13:51 Comparing the two great wheels' parts: brass vs. steel shoulders. 1:15:39 Making the replacement hexagonal shaft. 1:18:06 Reassembling the great wheel on the new shaft. 1:23:50 The reassembled wheel fits correctly on the great wheel arbor. Test running the repaired wheels in the time train. 1:25:01 Finding which pivot holes are worn enough to be bushed. Marking the un-worn side of each hole. 1:27:29 Bushing a worn pivot hole. 1:34:41 A worn and tunneled pivot hole, under magnification. 1:36:32 Moving the escape gear so that it will wear a fresh part of the anchor. 1:40:20 Broaching the anchor pivot holes (part of bushing). Testing the new holes. 1:43:50 Test running the time train overnight. 1:45:23 Replacing worn trundles in the strike train wheels. 1:57:54 Reviewing the repaired pivot holes (the bushing). 1:58:57 Issues with the worn drop lever. The purpose of the drop lever. Planning how to repair it. 2:07:48 Rebuilding the worn parts of the drop lever. 2:10:18 Evidence that two levers were scavenged from a different movement. Planning how to repair it. 2:15:52 The repaired warning lever's arbor. Testing and adjusting the repaired strike levers. 2:20:08 The mis-wound Perch helper spring. 2:20:47 Reassembling and oiling the repaired movement. 2:31:02 Running the movement on a test stand. The strike chain has the wrong number of links per foot.
I really appreciated your taking the time to accurately explain, and record the issues you encounter when rebuilding cuckoo movements, so that those of us just learning can fully understand the interaction between parts, and why things may be failing. It really helps us learn how to problem solve and correct wear, improper past repairs, etc I actually have two PHS movements like this, and really appreciate being able to understand the proper interaction between components. Of particular help was your replacement of the lantern pinion trundles, which is something I definitely need to do on one of my movements. I am pretty sure I watched you rebuild a Regula movement as well, and I have a couple of those I will be servicing as well. Thank you for your videos!
This video is nothing short of a tour d' force making so clear and visible so many valuable techniques associated with clock repair. I cannot thank you enough for taking the time and having the patience to be so instructive.
Thanks for the comments. I'm not a pro; just a hobbyist who's been at for 56 years. Professionals have education and apprenticeship in their backgrounds, so they have much more knowledge than I.
I have quite a few more of your videos to watch before I can say I've seen them all, HOWEVER, I've watched quite a few. And I must say that your repair of the two chain wheels on this movement is probably one of my favorites of the many I've watched so far. Just very cool to watch, I feel privileged for the opportunity to have watched such craftsmanship!!
Amazing. You are a master craftsman with the patience of a saint. As a mechanical nerd, I was riveted during the entire rebuild. A million times thank you!
My father used to say “There’s ONE in every crowd!” Regarding difficult dis assembly! I really enjoy your detailed discussions and explanations for the real time problems you are encountering
Fantastic job and a pleasure to watch a true clockmaker at his work 👏. Thank you very much for sharing and please keep your videos coming. Absolutely Superb.
Working on the same movement. Just spent the last 2 hours watching this. Just want to say how much I appreciate your showing the detail it takes to make proper repairs!
Oh this man is So BRILLIANT, How I wish he was either my neighbor or family member to learn under for clock repair. I'm new at clock repair, in Hope's, some day I get as good or as close to good, as this Master Clocksmith is. I'm not going to limit myself to just one area of clocks, I wanna work on any an all time pieces, being Cuckoo Clocks, Wall Clocks, Mantle Clocks, Watches, Pocket Watches, etc.... anything time pieces wise. I really enjoyed watching this Brilliant Master at work, even somewhat learning a bit as He did this total remanufacture, rebuild, of this clock movement. You Sir are a Master at what you do, I'm in Hope's someday of being somewhat even close to the Brilliance You show in this video, You Sir are my new found hero in Clocksmithing. It is educational watch you, an fun to watch you at your best, as you make it look so easy with your tutorial videos. Thanks for the insight an education videos. Please Keep up the GREAT JOB YOU DO IN KEEPING THESE TIME PIECES RUNNING!!!!
Thank you, but I am NOT a master clocksmith. I'm a simple hobbyist who's been doing this for more than 50 years. I should have learned something after all that time. Stay with the hobby and, if you can afford it, go to a school of horology if you want to learn about all kinds of clocks in less than 50 years.
A long time ago you were a magician, then came the quartz crisis and you were nearly obsolete… and then came UA-cam and you became highly honored influencers and the coolest kids on the block! Long live the watchmaker 🕰
I was never a watchmaker. I was a science teacher. However, one never becomes obsolete when fixing antique clocks. An antique will always be an antique and people will always want to see grandma's clock running. This is strictly a hobby with me.
At 2:31:02 you can see what looks like a leather insert in the gong hammer. I've never seen that before in a cuckoo clock - it must sound nice! Thanks again for the wonderful video!
It is a nice touch. I'm sure it softens the sound of the gong. I only had the movement, so I couldn't test it in the case. It belongs to a fellow in Minnesota, who's restoring the case.
You are right that was a challenge. I enjoyed watching the video. I have an 8MM peerless lathe. I wonder if I could do some of the brass work? Fun to watch. You are a master. Can,t wait for your next challenge. I hope you still have some winter left. I know you don,t do any clockwork in the summer.
Nice lathe. Sure you can do everything I can do. I might have to spend some summer evenings working on some clocks. Have a bunch of my own that need attention, too.
Thanks for the video. I had a clock that I had to do virtually the same thing this week. Your video helped me break down each problem and tackle them one at a time.
Muy buenos los vídeos muy instructivos los veo aunque solo se el español mucha salud Gracias por su paciencia y dedicación gracias amigo salud para seguir aprendiendo osvaldo
@@dperry428 Better than ever! On time and cuckooing and gonging with enthusiasm! Poor think sounded slow and sick before and of course eventually just dead. But no more! S
I would really enjoy watching you tackle separating the gears process, as with the Strike Mainwheel gear, so I know what to buy. I attempted to remove that exact small gear with no luck.
I assume you mean the small gear that moves the count wheel. You have to look very closely at it. I've found some that are a friction fit, but most have had a very small wire through a hole through the gear and through the arbor that holds it firm. If you assume it is a friction fit, you'll have no luck removing it without causing significant damage. Look carefully.
@@dperry428 basically what type of puller would you use to remove such a small gear? I understand some damage will occur. I have a puller from Timesavers, #23770 but just too thick.
If you've removed the pin, use two screwdriver blades on both sides of the arbor underneath the gear and twist them in opposite directions. Or, use levers such as these www.ronellclock.com/product/large-lever-style-clock-hand-remover/ Hardware stores often have something similar for removing paint can lids.
Fantastic job! I have learned a lot from this video. Two questions I have are: Where did you acquire those cutters for the pinion wire? and secondly: What is the number of the Loctite you used? Thanks for sharing your years of expertise with us. All the best, Sean
The cutters are Xuron hard wire cutters. Can be purchased through Xuron Corporation or Amazon. Loctite is Red Loctite 262, high strength but low temperature so it can be removed with 300 degree heat. Also, chemical resistant to withstand clock cleaning solutions.
Great video! I watched one of your Faux stone videos long back and thoroughly enjoyed it! You have a calming effect as you speak, a plus many cannot claim. I was pleased when I found this video you made. As a Black Forest clock collector I have been repairing movements for some time now yet even I learned a few tricks from you, so thanks for that. My question is, aside from the need to replace a tooth on the ratchet wheel, why not just re-bush the arbor hole on the wheel using brass pipe? I have successful brought them back to tolerance using that method saving a lot of time and work. Just wanted your thoughts on that. The Philipp Hass and sons firm made quality movements in their day, recognizable by the springing rabbit verge plates, well worth all the time you spent repairing it. Cheers, Jim
I'm not sure I'm following what you are suggesting. If you are talking about the chain wheel with the hex brass, I could also just turn a brass insert on my lathe. By rebuilding with a new piece of hex brass and drilling the hole on my lathe, I know the center is true. If one puts the whole chain assembly in the lathe, there is not likely to be concentricity between the parts and the new hole drilled through the old hex would stand a good chance of not being dead center, which creates the potential for future problems as that off-center hole wears. Also, by disassembling the chain-carrying parts, I can clean each piece, which is not possible leaving it intact.
@@dperry428 Hi and thanks so much for your response, I'll try to clarify my explanation, agreed, you have to disassemble the entire wheel to clean each individual component or in order to repair worn/broken teeth. In the absence of any worn or damaged teeth it is so labor intensive and requires a lathe to disassemble the chain wheel. The method I've used is to use a hollow brass pipe of which the inner diameter is the same or smaller than the arbor and the outside diameter of the brass pipe is slightly larger than the old worn hole, hence creating a long bushing if you will. I leave it slightly longer in length than the width of the wheel so it can be hammered and compressed in place and finally broaching it to match the correct hole size for the arbor. Drilling out the old worn hole centered, I use the same method as with any new bushing. Most I've attempted were pretty evenly worn holes. The chain wheel (I referred to as the ratchet wheel previously) is only serving as a pulley basically, so exact concentricity isn't so important but the few I have done worked out fine. My thought is to offer an alternative method, only if the need to take apart the whole assembly isn't necessary. Believe me, if I took apart every chain wheel I serviced, I'd have given up the hobby by now! Kind regards and I hope this explanation was a better one.. clearly your skills surpass mine in machining! Looking forward to more videos from you if you do. Jim
LOVE this video for so many reasons. Excellent instruction! The intermediate wheel appears at 2:26:06 with no re-assembly commentary. What prevent the gear from spinning on the shaft (my current issue, hands don't move) The pin will keep the gears on the front face aligned, but something must hold the gear...spline?...keyway?...epoxy?😆 Do the washer and tension washer mentioned at 2:40 provide enough force to keep it in place? Thanks in advance.
On every clock, the motion works (the gears that run the minute and hour hands) have to have some type of clutch mechanism that allows the hands to be set to the correct time. The clutch creates enough tightness to allow the time set of gears to move the motion works, but allows enough "slip' to allow the gears that run the hands to move when setting the time. If there were no slip, the hands could not be set to the correct time. Most often, the clutch is a tension washer under the intermediate wheel. There are other clutch designs on other clocks. In this clock mechanism, the intermediate wheel is on the same arbor as the main wheel of the time train. Were it solidly attached as the main wheel is, the hands could not be moved as their gears would be locked into the time train. The intermediate wheel is loose on the arbor, but a washer with a square hole in it fits onto a square portion of the arbor and presses against the intermediate wheel with just enough force to allow transmission of power from the time train to the motion works. When the hands are moved, the legs of the tension washer slide on the rim of the intermediate wheel, allowing it to move. Here is the assembly of the washer and intermediate wheel from another video. ua-cam.com/video/ZeN07SW6Dd8/v-deo.html
Thank you for being so willing to share your repair process. One question regarding the loop on that warning lever - the loop was extending too far out. 2:11:34 What did you do to shorten it so that it rode on top of the previous wheels’ pinion?
I removed that lever from the arbor by grinding off the peened end of it and driving it out. I then measured, cut it off to proper length, reinserted it in the arbor and silver soldered it in place.
When I've run into that situation, I attach a ziploc bag to the chain and add weights in the form of sand, pebbles or nuts and bolts until the clock runs reliably. Then, use a kitchen scale to weigh the bag. Weights of that amount or slightly greater can then be purchased from a clock supply. I buy weights from Frankenmuth Clocks frankenmuthclock.com/collections/parts-cuckoo-clock-quartz-cuckoo-miniature/weights
Question regarding broaching on the escape gear new bush. Should broaching the replacement bushing (at about 1:33) be done only from the gear side? The way the broach moved suggests it could be done from either side.
Since broaches, both cutting and smoothing, are tapered, it is recommended that the holes be cut and polished from both sides to make the sides of the hole as close to parallel as possible. In the instance you reference, I was showing only the smoothing broach being used. When using a cutting broach, it is held perpendicular to the plate. With the smoothing broach, which doesn't cut, but burnishes, it is recommended that the broach be moved in a circular motion while spinning it within the hole. It, likewise, should be done from both sides of the hole since the broach is tapered. That ensures polishing the entire hole.
Hi, I'm David and I send you greetings from Spain... I recently became fond of the world of watchmaking and I follow your channel, it's a real pleasure to see you work... I recently bought a mechanism just like this... but I don't know the weights...(counterweights and pendulum).. I have rebuilt the anchor rod...because I didn't have it, but I don't know the exact length measurement so that it works well. Could you tell me the weights and the measure of the rods of the pendulum? thanks in advance and regards 🖐
David, I can't refer back to the clock as it's back with its owner. These clocks used weights between 700 and 1000 grams. The best way to determine what weight to get for your particular clock is to hang a small container (pail or plastic bag from the chain and add weight to it in the form of sand, pebbles or nuts and bolts until the clock runs reliably. Then, weigh container with a postage scale and buy weights of equal or greater weight. As far as the length of the pendulum, the wire leader should extend to the bottom edge of the movement and the pendulum itself would likely be about 7 or 8 inches (17.5 to 20.5 cm.).
@@dperry428 Thank you very much, I will follow the advice of trying weights that are around this weight and I will take these measurements of the pendulum,...I only have the machinery and it is in very good condition...(the bearings need to be rectified)...I hope I can see it work...I will show it to you.... greetings
Very nice detail and craftsmanship, thank you for the video and excellent descriptions. I would like to have pivots replaced as you demonstrate on my project clock. Do you know of or offer metal lathe services?
Personally, can't do any repairs at the present time. There are many repair services; you might try yelp.com and do a search for clock repair in your area.
Mr Perry I have enjoyed watching all your repairs on cuckoo clocks. I have been working on a few cuckoo clocks as well.I am just getting into the trade. I enjoy it it gives my mind a challenge I have come across a Hubert herr movement. I’ve replaced a few bushings the movement is running great but in the process of putting it back together I noticed the plastic Minute wheel with minute pinion has a bad spot on the pinion can you help me I can’t find that plastic gear. Can you direct me to a website to find one Thank you Karl
Is this what you are looking for? www.blackforestimports.com/category/Parts-Accessories/Cuckoo-Parts-Accessories/Wheels-Gears-Cuckoo/Minute-Wheel-Idler-Gear-Cuckoo/
Incredible, like all your videos. How does that hard steel wear more than the brass working against it? I'm sure there's an explanation and I'd sure like to hear it. I read somewhere in another comment you had background in chemistry.
There are a lot of variables involved in the wear of pivots and pivot holes, but one thing that can be taken into consideration is the softness of brass allows the hard contaminant particles to become embedded in the brass and grind against the steel. The differences in brass and steel hardness from one manufacturer to another is another factor. Bushings in pivot holes can be changed over time without the steel pivots being properly polished, so the steel gets progressively more worn over time while the holes are refreshed. Variables in maintenance make an enormous difference. Oil that is simply added just makes a grinding paste and enhances wear.
Yes, indeed. Also, you have say, 15 teeth on an escape wheel, each of which is scraping on the same steel surface area. Same with brass gear wheels with, for example 70 brass teeth, rubbing against 7 trundles in a lantern pinion. Each trundle gets rubbed 10 times for each gear tooth being rubbed once.
Hello, Mr. Perry! I have a question about your lathe. I'm looking into buying a Sherline 8 inch lathe for clockmaking, but I would like to save a few bucks. Would you say that the speed control is necessary for a clockmaker's lathe, or should I save a hundred dollars and forego the speed control?
As far as I know, the lathe is not sold minus just the speed control. The option is to buy the lathe without a motor/speed control. If you go that option, you'll still have to have your own motor. And, yes, speed control is essential for differing functions. Cutting brass requires a higher speed than steel, for example. Drilling to replace a pivot requires a lower speed, while polishing a pivot requires a high speed.
No. Those who believe the trundles should rotate think that it would prevent or slow wear. Others believe the only reason they tend to be loose is to ease assembly at the factory. I'm of the second opinion.
I don't keep track, but it was quite a few. Working on clocks is a hobby, so I go down to the workshop when I have no other obligations and do what I can do. Sometimes I work for an hour or so and other times I've worked on something well into the night. I just enjoy working on them. This work was spread out over at least a month. I'm never in a hurry because I don't have to make money. It's just very satisfying to make a clock work again and avoid its being tossed into a landfill.
@@dperry428 Hi, I too work in a home workshop, mostly at night. Am not able to keep up with local demand for repairs. Really enjoyed your videos. Keep up the good work. James
As I show in the video, I use a carbide scribing pen to push a tiny bit of brass over each hole to lock in each trundle. I also add a small bit of Loctite to secure them. Watch starting here: ua-cam.com/video/nPCX9c20y6E/v-deo.html
None taken. In the winter, the little room where I work is where the tropicals from my pond, as well as a number of mosquito fish, have to be overwintered and the space I have left to work is very limited. At some point, I will have to get another camera that can be mounted under the shelves above my work area. At 80 years old, I don't know how much I want to spend in time and money to do that. Thanks for the comments.
If I recall correctly, it was 15%, no cadmium. Tin and silver. Maybe a little copper. I got it many years ago. The tiny amounts I use make a coil last a lifetime of clock repair.
I think I saw on this video that when you re bushed you used a BB13 which has a height of 1.5MM where the plate is probably 2.0 MM. Just curious why you would not use a bushing the same size as the plate. Maybe the height is not critical? So if the height of the bushing is the same length as the pivot that is all that matters? So sorry you will not be doing any videos for a while. Sure hope you can get that hip fixed. Good luck.
Ideally, you're right that the bushing should be the same height as the plate thickness. I don't keep an inventory of bushings for various plate thicknesses, as most of the clocks I fix have plates that are 1.5 mm or thinner. In most case where I have a clock with thicker plates, the pivot holes, other than the second wheel are generally not worn, so I seldom use a commercial bushing that is thicker. Hard to justify keeping an inventory of seldom used bushings. It's easier to simply make one on the lathe with brass rod. In this instance and many others of this type movement, for whatever reason, the pivots were made shorter than the plate thickness. That causes an unusual wear problem. Instead of the pivot hole wearing through the whole thickness, the outermost part of the hole stays round and the pivot wears down the inner part of the hole until the end of the pivot is actually in a groove. I refer to that as tunneling. As it wears, end shake is eliminated and friction stops the clock. This stoppage can occur sooner than that caused by normal pivot hole wear. It also causes the pivot itself to wear unevenly. As the end shake reduces, the outer portion of the pivot increasingly carries more of the load and the pivot wears into a cone shape. So, in these cases, I prefer the bushing be no thicker than the pivot is long so that wear is even and does not create "tunneling" wear and abnormal pivot wear.
The page seems to have moved. See timesavers.com/c-325525-chemicals-adhesives-soldering-cleaning-polishing-ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions-rinses.html for TimeSavers' various cleaning fluids. I used to use Vigor brand because it seemed the least toxic, but they don't seem to carry it any more.
Are the wire shears you use in this video a Xuron 2193F Hard Wire Cutter? xuron.com/index.php/main/industrial_products/11/18 Thanks for the seriously impressive video. You show why a clock repair person needs to be a bit of a machinist as well. Congratulations on a very instructive video and a job well done!
I don't know if that's the exact model number, but that looks like the cutter I use. Thanks for the comments. You never know what problems you'll run into with some of these older movements. It's unbelievable what people have done to these old movements through the years.
dperry428, but you'll not find much. I rarely comment. I love using it as a resource but, unfortunately, there are some enormous egos and some who are easily butt-hurt and I'm just too old to get into argumentative situations. Mama told me to never get in a pissing contest with a skunk.
dperry428 im trying to specialize in cuckoo repair. It’s my main interest since I was a kid. I’d love to swap emails with you to know what Hand tools I should buy to be able to rebush. I took apart several movements this week, cleaned them and was able to put them back together successfully from your videos. Nobody around here seems to want to help out with apprenticeship etc. so I’m on my own. I read balcomb and Koch. I would love to know what I need to start out. From all I read it is broaches, some 1.4mm bushing Hand tools. Is there a way I could contact you off UA-cam?
It's irritating that UA-cam did away with personal messaging. Just leave a comment with your email address. I hold all comments for review, so no one will see it but me. Then, I'll contact you and delete your comment.
dperry428 I have this weird thing going on. West German cuckoo. It runs amazing. +1 second an hour. Everything is good. Every once in a while, random. It will cuckoo 2x on the 1/2 hour. So naturally with my ocd I twill manually go around the clock. It strikes fine and then it may strike 7 at 9pm 9 at 10. But if you continue to manually rotate the minute hand, it seems it will go fine. Happened today. After this happened, I actually manual rotated for 48 hours and it totally corrected itself. Can a cuckoo strike incorrectly if you manually move the hand past the strike time? I just don’t understand it.
Look to the front of the movement at the levers and rack-and-snail. Are all levers free to drop properly in the strike sequence? On the hour, is the rack tail falling in the center of a step on the snail? Is the warning pin on the warning wheel bent? Check the position of the gathering pallet and the warning pin at stop position. When the pin is against the stop detente, is the pin that rides the gathering pallet exactly in the slot of the gathering pallet? Something is either sticking and not dropping properly and freely or something is out of adjustment.
no way were those trundles originally designed to rotate. Imagine the extra work involved. Plus, if they were intended to rotate, the service instructions would have required they be cleaned and oiled. Further, there's no way you could keep dirt and oil out of the holes. You would see dramatic wear at the points the trundles are seated int their holes..and the brass holes would keep getting larger and larger until the trundles fell out. And that would happen much faster than the steel trundles wear out. The very theory is preposterous
I agree. I believe they are relatively loose in the holes as a convenience in manufacturing. A machine could just drop them into the shroud holes instead of having to press them in. However, if you go to the NAWCC forum, there can be some spicy arguments between the two sides of the argument. Lots of information concerning clocks creates divisive and sometimes hostile arguments.
So you live in Illinois...have you ever met Lyle Peterson aka MrPete? aka Tubalcaine? You guys live pretty close to each other and would def hit it off
No, never met him, but I've watched a number of his videos and commented back and forth a few times. I think we'd hit it off, too. He's a retired industrial arts teacher and I'm a retired science teacher. I'm in Genoa, Illinois and, if I remember correctly, he's in Batavia or the area.
An index for this video:
0:00 Summary of the repair work to do.
1:36 Disassembling the movement.
4:14 "Somebody put a nail in there" (instead of a tapered pin)
4:44 Serious wear on the anchor.
5:31 Removing the levers; finding an odd piece of wire.
7:40 Removing the pins that hold the plates together.
8:22 The tension spring that holds the count wheel on. Removing the count wheel.
8:50 The pin that holds a motion works gear.
9:45 Separating the plates and removing the wheels.
10:11 The worn strike train second wheel's cam. How to tell the surface has been worn.
11:19 The worn escape wheel trundles. Removing the time train second wheel.
11:50 How to remove the drop lever.
12:13 How to disassemble the great wheels.
14:01 Wear on the great wheel and how that can make the click fail. Finding a different style click on the other great wheel.
15:36 The fully disassembled movement, in bins.
15:53 A conically worn pivot that must be replaced. How to replace it.
18:06 A worn pivot and trundles on the escape wheel. Worn pivots on a great wheel.
20:12 More worn pivots and trundles.
20:44 Detailed wear on the cam.
21:50 Worn warning wheel pin and trundles.
22:29 How the worn cam and drop lever affects the bird door.
26:55 The anchor wear may be difficult to grind out.
28:32 How he's going to replace the trundles; why he doesn't like to pull the shroud.
30:03 Removing the worn trundles.
36:11 The plan for replacing the trundles, in detail.
39:45 Pushing worn trundles out without cutting them.
40:45 Xuron Corp cutter used to cut the pinion wire, to make new trundles.
41:27 Measuring, cutting, inserting, engraving, and locking the new trundles.
51:08 Repivoting the escape wheel, polishing its new pivots.
1:01:28 Removing the hexagonal center shaft of a great wheel. Outlining the repair work to do.
1:05:21 Replacing a worn ratchet tooth.
1:11:00 Test-fitting the new hexagonal shaft
1:11:36 Dismantling the second great wheel.
1:13:51 Comparing the two great wheels' parts: brass vs. steel shoulders.
1:15:39 Making the replacement hexagonal shaft.
1:18:06 Reassembling the great wheel on the new shaft.
1:23:50 The reassembled wheel fits correctly on the great wheel arbor. Test running the repaired wheels in the time train.
1:25:01 Finding which pivot holes are worn enough to be bushed. Marking the un-worn side of each hole.
1:27:29 Bushing a worn pivot hole.
1:34:41 A worn and tunneled pivot hole, under magnification.
1:36:32 Moving the escape gear so that it will wear a fresh part of the anchor.
1:40:20 Broaching the anchor pivot holes (part of bushing). Testing the new holes.
1:43:50 Test running the time train overnight.
1:45:23 Replacing worn trundles in the strike train wheels.
1:57:54 Reviewing the repaired pivot holes (the bushing).
1:58:57 Issues with the worn drop lever. The purpose of the drop lever. Planning how to repair it.
2:07:48 Rebuilding the worn parts of the drop lever.
2:10:18 Evidence that two levers were scavenged from a different movement. Planning how to repair it.
2:15:52 The repaired warning lever's arbor. Testing and adjusting the repaired strike levers.
2:20:08 The mis-wound Perch helper spring.
2:20:47 Reassembling and oiling the repaired movement.
2:31:02 Running the movement on a test stand. The strike chain has the wrong number of links per foot.
I really appreciated your taking the time to accurately explain, and record the issues you encounter when rebuilding cuckoo movements, so that those of us just learning can fully understand the interaction between parts, and why things may be failing. It really helps us learn how to problem solve and correct wear, improper past repairs, etc I actually have two PHS movements like this, and really appreciate being able to understand the proper interaction between components. Of particular help was your replacement of the lantern pinion trundles, which is something I definitely need to do on one of my movements. I am pretty sure I watched you rebuild a Regula movement as well, and I have a couple of those I will be servicing as well. Thank you for your videos!
Thank you for your comments and for watching the videos.
This video is nothing short of a tour d' force making so clear and visible so many valuable techniques associated with clock repair. I cannot thank you enough for taking the time and having the patience to be so instructive.
It must be so satisfying to save something so old and worn out, get work and thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Thank you for another great video on RR cuckoo clock. Your passion and skills are unmatchable!
One of the most detailed clock repair work I’ve ever seen. My hats off to you sir. Well done. You’re definitely a pro and ingenious in your solutions.
Thanks for the comments. I'm not a pro; just a hobbyist who's been at for 56 years. Professionals have education and apprenticeship in their backgrounds, so they have much more knowledge than I.
I have quite a few more of your videos to watch before I can say I've seen them all, HOWEVER, I've watched quite a few. And I must say that your repair of the two chain wheels on this movement is probably one of my favorites of the many I've watched so far. Just very cool to watch, I feel privileged for the opportunity to have watched such craftsmanship!!
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate the feedback.
Amazing. You are a master craftsman with the patience of a saint. As a mechanical nerd, I was riveted during the entire rebuild. A million times thank you!
Thank you Mr. Perry that was most interesting. A challenge indeed, but overcome by your amazing skills and patience!
👍🇨🇦
I like this style of clock repair video where you show more detailed fixes, which helps me better understand these problems. Great job dperry!!
Thanks for watching and for the comment.
My father used to say
“There’s ONE in every crowd!”
Regarding difficult dis assembly!
I really enjoy your detailed discussions and explanations for the real time problems you are encountering
This is the best video ever on a job like this.
Congratulations on a job well done!
JIM
Thanks
Fantastic job and a pleasure to watch a true clockmaker at his work 👏. Thank you very much for sharing and please keep your videos coming. Absolutely Superb.
Thanks, but I'm not a clockmaker; just a long-time hobbyist.
Working on the same movement. Just spent the last 2 hours watching this. Just want to say how much I appreciate your showing the detail it takes to make proper repairs!
Thank you.
Oh this man is So BRILLIANT, How I wish he was either my neighbor or family member to learn under for clock repair. I'm new at clock repair, in Hope's, some day I get as good or as close to good, as this Master Clocksmith is. I'm not going to limit myself to just one area of clocks, I wanna work on any an all time pieces, being Cuckoo Clocks, Wall Clocks, Mantle Clocks, Watches, Pocket Watches, etc.... anything time pieces wise. I really enjoyed watching this Brilliant Master at work, even somewhat learning a bit as He did this total remanufacture, rebuild, of this clock movement. You Sir are a Master at what you do, I'm in Hope's someday of being somewhat even close to the Brilliance You show in this video, You Sir are my new found hero in Clocksmithing. It is educational watch you, an fun to watch you at your best, as you make it look so easy with your tutorial videos. Thanks for the insight an education videos. Please Keep up the GREAT JOB YOU DO IN KEEPING THESE TIME PIECES RUNNING!!!!
Thank you, but I am NOT a master clocksmith. I'm a simple hobbyist who's been doing this for more than 50 years. I should have learned something after all that time. Stay with the hobby and, if you can afford it, go to a school of horology if you want to learn about all kinds of clocks in less than 50 years.
dperry428 : thank you for sharing your years of awesome talent and skills . with limited basic tooling , old schooling . best blessings .
A long time ago you were a magician, then came the quartz crisis and you were nearly obsolete… and then came UA-cam and you became highly honored influencers and the coolest kids on the block! Long live the watchmaker 🕰
I was never a watchmaker. I was a science teacher. However, one never becomes obsolete when fixing antique clocks. An antique will always be an antique and people will always want to see grandma's clock running. This is strictly a hobby with me.
Excellent work! Just watched the whole thing.
Your patience and dexterity are quit quite something sir.
My hat comes off to you.
Thank you kindly
I have a Cuckoo Clock that hasn 't worked in twenty years. I think that I might try to get the inner workings going by watching you; a lot!
Go for it. That's how I learned -- by doing! If you don't succeed, you'll have what you've had for 20 years -- a clock that doesn't work.
what a fantastic job, a pleasure to watch thank you
What a terrific video!!! Thank you Don.
Thank you for the excellent video. I learned a lot and hopefully can apply some of the knowledge you shared. Great stuff. Cheers !
You are an inspiration... I just ordered a Taig Lathe... Thank you!
Congratulations on the purchase. Always fun to get new things to enjoy.
At 2:31:02 you can see what looks like a leather insert in the gong hammer. I've never seen that before in a cuckoo clock - it must sound nice! Thanks again for the wonderful video!
It is a nice touch. I'm sure it softens the sound of the gong. I only had the movement, so I couldn't test it in the case. It belongs to a fellow in Minnesota, who's restoring the case.
Thanks for the great reply. I understand your reasoning about bushings.
Great work sir
прекрасная работа спасибо большое !!!!!!
You are right that was a challenge. I enjoyed watching the video. I have an 8MM peerless lathe. I wonder if I could do some of the brass work? Fun to watch. You are a master. Can,t wait for your next challenge. I hope you still have some winter left. I know you don,t do any clockwork in the summer.
Nice lathe. Sure you can do everything I can do. I might have to spend some summer evenings working on some clocks. Have a bunch of my own that need attention, too.
Very well explained. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the video. I had a clock that I had to do virtually the same thing this week. Your video helped me break down each problem and tackle them one at a time.
I'm glad it was helpful.
Muy buenos los vídeos muy instructivos los veo aunque solo se el español mucha salud Gracias por su paciencia y dedicación gracias amigo salud para seguir aprendiendo osvaldo
de nada y gracias
Great , great work ! Thank you .
Thank you too!
Hi dperry that was greatest video cuckoo repair thank you
Lucky Lucky Wade!
How's the clock running?
@@dperry428 Better than ever! On time and cuckooing and gonging with enthusiasm! Poor think sounded slow and sick before and of course eventually just dead. But no more! S
Maro amico il tuo video è meraviglioso perché è veramente illustrato e semplice.
Grazie
good work. best regards
Great job !
Thank you.
Challenge, this turned into a quest, nice touch
Thanks.
I would really enjoy watching you tackle separating the gears process, as with the Strike Mainwheel gear, so I know what to buy. I attempted to remove that exact small gear with no luck.
I assume you mean the small gear that moves the count wheel. You have to look very closely at it. I've found some that are a friction fit, but most have had a very small wire through a hole through the gear and through the arbor that holds it firm. If you assume it is a friction fit, you'll have no luck removing it without causing significant damage. Look carefully.
@@dperry428 basically what type of puller would you use to remove such a small gear? I understand some damage will occur. I have a puller from Timesavers, #23770 but just too thick.
If you've removed the pin, use two screwdriver blades on both sides of the arbor underneath the gear and twist them in opposite directions. Or, use levers such as these www.ronellclock.com/product/large-lever-style-clock-hand-remover/ Hardware stores often have something similar for removing paint can lids.
@@dperry428 Thanks so much, this is what I am looking for! These unique tools which serve a specific role.
عمل رائع جدا" جدا"...يستحق ألاحترام وألتقدير..استمر رجاءا"..
شكرًا لك
Fantastic job! I have learned a lot from this video. Two questions I have are: Where did you acquire those cutters for the pinion wire? and secondly: What is the number of the Loctite you used? Thanks for sharing your years of expertise with us. All the best, Sean
The cutters are Xuron hard wire cutters. Can be purchased through Xuron Corporation or Amazon. Loctite is Red Loctite 262, high strength but low temperature so it can be removed with 300 degree heat. Also, chemical resistant to withstand clock cleaning solutions.
mucho bueno explication , Graciez , D Bettoni , brasile
Obrigado
Great video! I watched one of your Faux stone videos long back and thoroughly enjoyed it! You have a calming effect as you speak, a plus many cannot claim. I was pleased when I found this video you made. As a Black Forest clock collector I have been repairing movements for some time now yet even I learned a few tricks from you, so thanks for that.
My question is, aside from the need to replace a tooth on the ratchet wheel, why not just re-bush the arbor hole on the wheel using brass pipe? I have successful brought them back to tolerance using that method saving a lot of time and work. Just wanted your thoughts on that.
The Philipp Hass and sons firm made quality movements in their day, recognizable by the springing rabbit verge plates, well worth all the time you spent repairing it.
Cheers, Jim
I'm not sure I'm following what you are suggesting. If you are talking about the chain wheel with the hex brass, I could also just turn a brass insert on my lathe. By rebuilding with a new piece of hex brass and drilling the hole on my lathe, I know the center is true. If one puts the whole chain assembly in the lathe, there is not likely to be concentricity between the parts and the new hole drilled through the old hex would stand a good chance of not being dead center, which creates the potential for future problems as that off-center hole wears. Also, by disassembling the chain-carrying parts, I can clean each piece, which is not possible leaving it intact.
@@dperry428
Hi and thanks so much for your response,
I'll try to clarify my explanation, agreed, you have to disassemble the entire wheel to clean each individual component or in order to repair worn/broken teeth. In the absence of any worn or damaged teeth it is so labor intensive and requires a lathe to disassemble the chain wheel. The method I've used is to use a hollow brass pipe of which the inner diameter is the same or smaller than the arbor and the outside diameter of the brass pipe is slightly larger than the old worn hole, hence creating a long bushing if you will. I leave it slightly longer in length than the width of the wheel so it can be hammered and compressed in place and finally broaching it to match the correct hole size for the arbor. Drilling out the old worn hole centered, I use the same method as with any new bushing. Most I've attempted were pretty evenly worn holes. The chain wheel (I referred to as the ratchet wheel previously) is only serving as a pulley basically, so exact concentricity isn't so important but the few I have done worked out fine.
My thought is to offer an alternative method, only if the need to take apart the whole assembly isn't necessary. Believe me, if I took apart every chain wheel I serviced, I'd have given up the hobby by now!
Kind regards and I hope this explanation was a better one.. clearly your skills surpass mine in machining! Looking forward to more videos from you if you do.
Jim
Fun Fun Fun!
LOVE this video for so many reasons. Excellent instruction! The intermediate wheel appears at 2:26:06 with no re-assembly commentary. What prevent the gear from spinning on the shaft (my current issue, hands don't move) The pin will keep the gears on the front face aligned, but something must hold the gear...spline?...keyway?...epoxy?😆 Do the washer and tension washer mentioned at 2:40 provide enough force to keep it in place? Thanks in advance.
On every clock, the motion works (the gears that run the minute and hour hands) have to have some type of clutch mechanism that allows the hands to be set to the correct time. The clutch creates enough tightness to allow the time set of gears to move the motion works, but allows enough "slip' to allow the gears that run the hands to move when setting the time. If there were no slip, the hands could not be set to the correct time. Most often, the clutch is a tension washer under the intermediate wheel. There are other clutch designs on other clocks. In this clock mechanism, the intermediate wheel is on the same arbor as the main wheel of the time train. Were it solidly attached as the main wheel is, the hands could not be moved as their gears would be locked into the time train. The intermediate wheel is loose on the arbor, but a washer with a square hole in it fits onto a square portion of the arbor and presses against the intermediate wheel with just enough force to allow transmission of power from the time train to the motion works. When the hands are moved, the legs of the tension washer slide on the rim of the intermediate wheel, allowing it to move. Here is the assembly of the washer and intermediate wheel from another video. ua-cam.com/video/ZeN07SW6Dd8/v-deo.html
очень интересно, так установить шатон (футер), вместо оттяжки платины спец-метчиком на месте выработок 👍
Плохая практика - пытаться починить подшипник, ударяя по его краям. Лучшей практикой является замена изношенного отверстия новым материалом.
@@dperry428 правильно, установить новый шатон, лучше чем портить шедевр 😄
Thank you for being so willing to share your repair process. One question regarding the loop on that warning lever - the loop was extending too far out. 2:11:34 What did you do to shorten it so that it rode on top of the previous wheels’ pinion?
I removed that lever from the arbor by grinding off the peened end of it and driving it out. I then measured, cut it off to proper length, reinserted it in the arbor and silver soldered it in place.
If you don't have the weights, how do you know how much weight to put on a cuckoo clock?
When I've run into that situation, I attach a ziploc bag to the chain and add weights in the form of sand, pebbles or nuts and bolts until the clock runs reliably. Then, use a kitchen scale to weigh the bag. Weights of that amount or slightly greater can then be purchased from a clock supply. I buy weights from Frankenmuth Clocks frankenmuthclock.com/collections/parts-cuckoo-clock-quartz-cuckoo-miniature/weights
Thank you! Very helpful. @@dperry428
Question regarding broaching on the escape gear new bush. Should broaching the replacement bushing (at about 1:33) be done only from the gear side? The way the broach moved suggests it could be done from either side.
Since broaches, both cutting and smoothing, are tapered, it is recommended that the holes be cut and polished from both sides to make the sides of the hole as close to parallel as possible. In the instance you reference, I was showing only the smoothing broach being used. When using a cutting broach, it is held perpendicular to the plate. With the smoothing broach, which doesn't cut, but burnishes, it is recommended that the broach be moved in a circular motion while spinning it within the hole. It, likewise, should be done from both sides of the hole since the broach is tapered. That ensures polishing the entire hole.
Hi, I'm David and I send you greetings from Spain... I recently became fond of the world of watchmaking and I follow your channel, it's a real pleasure to see you work... I recently bought a mechanism just like this... but I don't know the weights...(counterweights and pendulum).. I have rebuilt the anchor rod...because I didn't have it, but I don't know the exact length measurement so that it works well. Could you tell me the weights and the measure of the rods of the pendulum? thanks in advance and regards 🖐
David, I can't refer back to the clock as it's back with its owner. These clocks used weights between 700 and 1000 grams. The best way to determine what weight to get for your particular clock is to hang a small container (pail or plastic bag from the chain and add weight to it in the form of sand, pebbles or nuts and bolts until the clock runs reliably. Then, weigh container with a postage scale and buy weights of equal or greater weight. As far as the length of the pendulum, the wire leader should extend to the bottom edge of the movement and the pendulum itself would likely be about 7 or 8 inches (17.5 to 20.5 cm.).
@@dperry428 Thank you very much, I will follow the advice of trying weights that are around
this weight and I will take these measurements of the pendulum,...I only have the machinery and it is in very good condition...(the bearings need to be rectified)...I hope I can see it work...I will show it to you....
greetings
Post a video on your channel when you're done.
Very nice detail and craftsmanship, thank you for the video and excellent descriptions. I would like to have pivots replaced as you demonstrate on my project clock. Do you know of or offer metal lathe services?
Personally, can't do any repairs at the present time. There are many repair services; you might try yelp.com and do a search for clock repair in your area.
@@dperry428 Will do...thank you. Your video is inspiring.
Mr Perry I have enjoyed watching all your repairs on cuckoo clocks. I have been working on a few cuckoo clocks as well.I am just getting into the trade. I enjoy it it gives my mind a challenge I have come across a Hubert herr movement. I’ve replaced a few bushings the movement is running great but in the process of putting it back together I noticed the plastic Minute wheel with minute pinion has a bad spot on the pinion can you help me I can’t find that plastic gear. Can you direct me to a website to find one
Thank you
Karl
Is this what you are looking for? www.blackforestimports.com/category/Parts-Accessories/Cuckoo-Parts-Accessories/Wheels-Gears-Cuckoo/Minute-Wheel-Idler-Gear-Cuckoo/
Yes I believe so as long as it has the minute pinion on it can’t tell from the pic
Thank you sir I’ll look into to it more
Yes sir that is the one I am looking for thank you for the help
getting on in years when you've got a craft and your hands don't want to cooperate really sucks swamp gas!
Incredible, like all your videos. How does that hard steel wear more than the brass working against it?
I'm sure there's an explanation and I'd sure like to hear it.
I read somewhere in another comment you had background in chemistry.
There are a lot of variables involved in the wear of pivots and pivot holes, but one thing that can be taken into consideration is the softness of brass allows the hard contaminant particles to become embedded in the brass and grind against the steel. The differences in brass and steel hardness from one manufacturer to another is another factor. Bushings in pivot holes can be changed over time without the steel pivots being properly polished, so the steel gets progressively more worn over time while the holes are refreshed. Variables in maintenance make an enormous difference. Oil that is simply added just makes a grinding paste and enhances wear.
Thank you mr. Perry for your reply. That makes sense and I guess would even apply to for example, that escape wheel wearing that steel anchor.
Yes, indeed. Also, you have say, 15 teeth on an escape wheel, each of which is scraping on the same steel surface area. Same with brass gear wheels with, for example 70 brass teeth, rubbing against 7 trundles in a lantern pinion. Each trundle gets rubbed 10 times for each gear tooth being rubbed once.
Hello, Mr. Perry! I have a question about your lathe. I'm looking into buying a Sherline 8 inch lathe for clockmaking, but I would like to save a few bucks. Would you say that the speed control is necessary for a clockmaker's lathe, or should I save a hundred dollars and forego the speed control?
As far as I know, the lathe is not sold minus just the speed control. The option is to buy the lathe without a motor/speed control. If you go that option, you'll still have to have your own motor. And, yes, speed control is essential for differing functions. Cutting brass requires a higher speed than steel, for example. Drilling to replace a pivot requires a lower speed, while polishing a pivot requires a high speed.
@@dperry428 I see! Thank you for your wisdom!
For the pins to rotate, would that technically cause slipping during operation?
No. Those who believe the trundles should rotate think that it would prevent or slow wear. Others believe the only reason they tend to be loose is to ease assembly at the factory. I'm of the second opinion.
Can you please please make a short video (center Adjusting the striking cuckoo clock (Rhythm cuckoo) Japan
I've never seen one. Have no idea whatsoever what they are nor how they work.
Great work. How many hours work did this video cover?
Theclockworks
I don't keep track, but it was quite a few. Working on clocks is a hobby, so I go down to the workshop when I have no other obligations and do what I can do. Sometimes I work for an hour or so and other times I've worked on something well into the night. I just enjoy working on them. This work was spread out over at least a month. I'm never in a hurry because I don't have to make money. It's just very satisfying to make a clock work again and avoid its being tossed into a landfill.
@@dperry428 Hi,
I too work in a home workshop, mostly at night. Am not able to keep up with local demand for repairs.
Really enjoyed your videos. Keep up the good work.
James
when you add wire to make a new pivot, is it as strong as the original pivot?
Stronger, actually, since I use hardened steel wire. The original pivots will bend; the replacements will not.
what stops the trundles from coming out as they seemed to push in very easy?
As I show in the video, I use a carbide scribing pen to push a tiny bit of brass over each hole to lock in each trundle. I also add a small bit of Loctite to secure them. Watch starting here: ua-cam.com/video/nPCX9c20y6E/v-deo.html
I really like your content and style, might I suggest a higher camera angle.
Sure. All I need is for you to come and remodel that basement area so I can create a higher spot for a camera.
@@dperry428 I understand and meant no disrespect
None taken. In the winter, the little room where I work is where the tropicals from my pond, as well as a number of mosquito fish, have to be overwintered and the space I have left to work is very limited. At some point, I will have to get another camera that can be mounted under the shelves above my work area. At 80 years old, I don't know how much I want to spend in time and money to do that. Thanks for the comments.
I hope to be 80 and as enthusiastic about sharing as you good sir!
Stay enthusiastic, but don't hope to be 80. It ain't fun. They say these are the "golden years". I say, "golden years my backside".
what percentage silver do.you.use? is it cadmium free?
If I recall correctly, it was 15%, no cadmium. Tin and silver. Maybe a little copper. I got it many years ago. The tiny amounts I use make a coil last a lifetime of clock repair.
I think I saw on this video that when you re bushed you used a BB13 which has a height of 1.5MM where the plate is probably 2.0 MM. Just curious why you would not use a bushing the same size as the plate. Maybe the height is not critical? So if the height of the bushing is the same length as the pivot that is all that matters? So sorry you will not be doing any videos for a while.
Sure hope you can get that hip fixed. Good luck.
Ideally, you're right that the bushing should be the same height as the plate thickness. I don't keep an inventory of bushings for various plate thicknesses, as most of the clocks I fix have plates that are 1.5 mm or thinner. In most case where I have a clock with thicker plates, the pivot holes, other than the second wheel are generally not worn, so I seldom use a commercial bushing that is thicker. Hard to justify keeping an inventory of seldom used bushings. It's easier to simply make one on the lathe with brass rod. In this instance and many others of this type movement, for whatever reason, the pivots were made shorter than the plate thickness. That causes an unusual wear problem. Instead of the pivot hole wearing through the whole thickness, the outermost part of the hole stays round and the pivot wears down the inner part of the hole until the end of the pivot is actually in a groove. I refer to that as tunneling. As it wears, end shake is eliminated and friction stops the clock. This stoppage can occur sooner than that caused by normal pivot hole wear. It also causes the pivot itself to wear unevenly. As the end shake reduces, the outer portion of the pivot increasingly carries more of the load and the pivot wears into a cone shape. So, in these cases, I prefer the bushing be no thicker than the pivot is long so that wear is even and does not create "tunneling" wear and abnormal pivot wear.
Дуже важливо знати
in what solution do you wash the watch and where can I buy it? I repair watches
timesavers.com/i-9500951-l-r-clock-cleaning-concentrate-1-gallon.html or make your own with liquid detergent, ammonia and oleic acid.
The page seems to have moved. See timesavers.com/c-325525-chemicals-adhesives-soldering-cleaning-polishing-ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions-rinses.html for TimeSavers' various cleaning fluids. I used to use Vigor brand because it seemed the least toxic, but they don't seem to carry it any more.
I would like to try replacing bellows with leather. Where do you get your leather and what thickness? Bob
I found mine on ebay. Search for thin leather 1 oz or less. You can also buy it from Timesavers. timesavers.com/i-8946487-leather-bellow-material.html
I wonder if this guy knew John B Mclemore
No, I didn't.
@@dperry428 have you heard of him?
ua-cam.com/video/npQdUjq_-QE/v-deo.html
Not until I looked him up to find out to whom you were referring. Sounds like an absolute nut case.
@@dperry428 oh, he was indeed. But he was also a genius
Are the wire shears you use in this video a Xuron 2193F Hard Wire Cutter? xuron.com/index.php/main/industrial_products/11/18 Thanks for the seriously impressive video. You show why a clock repair person needs to be a bit of a machinist as well. Congratulations on a very instructive video and a job well done!
I don't know if that's the exact model number, but that looks like the cutter I use. Thanks for the comments. You never know what problems you'll run into with some of these older movements. It's unbelievable what people have done to these old movements through the years.
What is your user name on nawcc forums? I love your work. Thanks so much!
dperry428, but you'll not find much. I rarely comment. I love using it as a resource but, unfortunately, there are some enormous egos and some who are easily butt-hurt and I'm just too old to get into argumentative situations. Mama told me to never get in a pissing contest with a skunk.
dperry428 im trying to specialize in cuckoo repair. It’s my main interest since I was a kid. I’d love to swap emails with you to know what Hand tools I should buy to be able to rebush. I took apart several movements this week, cleaned them and was able to put them back together successfully from your videos. Nobody around here seems to want to help out with apprenticeship etc. so I’m on my own. I read balcomb and Koch. I would love to know what I need to start out. From all I read it is broaches, some 1.4mm bushing Hand tools. Is there a way I could contact you off UA-cam?
It's irritating that UA-cam did away with personal messaging. Just leave a comment with your email address. I hold all comments for review, so no one will see it but me. Then, I'll contact you and delete your comment.
dperry428 I have this weird thing going on. West German cuckoo. It runs amazing. +1 second an hour. Everything is good. Every once in a while, random. It will cuckoo 2x on the 1/2 hour. So naturally with my ocd I twill manually go around the clock. It strikes fine and then it may strike 7 at 9pm 9 at 10. But if you continue to manually rotate the minute hand, it seems it will go fine. Happened today. After this happened, I actually manual rotated for 48 hours and it totally corrected itself. Can a cuckoo strike incorrectly if you manually move the hand past the strike time? I just don’t understand it.
Look to the front of the movement at the levers and rack-and-snail. Are all levers free to drop properly in the strike sequence? On the hour, is the rack tail falling in the center of a step on the snail? Is the warning pin on the warning wheel bent? Check the position of the gathering pallet and the warning pin at stop position. When the pin is against the stop detente, is the pin that rides the gathering pallet exactly in the slot of the gathering pallet? Something is either sticking and not dropping properly and freely or something is out of adjustment.
no way were those trundles originally designed to rotate. Imagine the extra work involved. Plus, if they were intended to rotate, the service instructions would have required they be cleaned and oiled. Further, there's no way you could keep dirt and oil out of the holes. You would see dramatic wear at the points the trundles are seated int their holes..and the brass holes would keep getting larger and larger until the trundles fell out. And that would happen much faster than the steel trundles wear out. The very theory is preposterous
I agree. I believe they are relatively loose in the holes as a convenience in manufacturing. A machine could just drop them into the shroud holes instead of having to press them in. However, if you go to the NAWCC forum, there can be some spicy arguments between the two sides of the argument. Lots of information concerning clocks creates divisive and sometimes hostile arguments.
So you live in Illinois...have you ever met Lyle Peterson aka MrPete? aka Tubalcaine? You guys live pretty close to each other and would def hit it off
No, never met him, but I've watched a number of his videos and commented back and forth a few times. I think we'd hit it off, too. He's a retired industrial arts teacher and I'm a retired science teacher. I'm in Genoa, Illinois and, if I remember correctly, he's in Batavia or the area.