Brand new ICF mono pour system you have never seen before.
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2023
- I developed a brand new system to pour footers and walls at the same time. This is a simple design and you can do this with any ICF block. Here we used Fox blocks but Nudura or Logix would work the same. This is a good DIY way to do your foundation for a new house. This is a stem wall foundation and the house will be built on a radiant heated concrete slab.
Those Fox Blocks are the best block in the industry. They would have been called Laird Block but once my dad posted the patent details/ information, that information was stolen and it became Fox Block. My dad didn't have the money to go after them but hopefully some day our family will be made whole. My dad spent years developing this block.
Well that sucks and they are a great block.
Man that’s awful
my dad invented the 12 point ratcheting wrench in 1995 and sent it into canadian tire. they stole the idea and in 1996 produce the first set. no royalties or anything. just stole it. it was going to be called à 12 point quick wrench
@@simpleandeffectivediy7267 Why didn't your dad do something about it? The justice system is messed up because it cost way to much money to fight for your rights and these big companies know it. That's how they get away with it. Why did your dad go to Canadian Tire and share his idea with them?
@@robertlaird6746it's literally the worst way to build a foundation for a business. What there doing should have taken only 2-3 days to completely finish wit a crew of 4 ppl. He made it so much harder by pouring the wall n footing together. How are you saving money by working longer with material that cannot be reused? As a business? By the by you'll cut time in half by getting rid of the drills n screws. A hammer with double headed nails will cut your time by half, forming & stripping
Keep us updated on this build. Thanks for explaining monopour- never could figure out exactly how someone would do it
Will do Chris.
This is a interesting way of going about this, I remember a few years back seeing the fastfoot system where you can essentially do a mono pour and skip the foundation forms by having a vapor barrier fabric act as the concrete form and use leveling feet to space out the proper footer height and level out the ICF blocks all in one. I think I saw it on Cutting edge homes when i was looking into building a ICF pool.
Yes I have seen some do it that way too
Inexperienced with concrete here, but I really like the idea of suspending the rebar by those conduits in the forms. You do good work!
Love your common sense! Glad your shoulder is doing good, I just had shoulder replacement surgery, I'm doing good almost 6 weeks out. Keep these videos coming.
Awesome glad your shoulder replacement was a success. I will keep them coming my friend.
Can’t say enough good things about Fox Blocks, Excellent ICF
I agree Mike
I remember when this type of foundation first came out, to say they had their problems was an understatement, it appears from this video those days are long gone. I’m still not sure I’m a fan, but then I’m pretty old school with most construction techniques, I do appreciate the amount of detail you put into setting this up, very impressive. I am kind of surprised to see a slab on grade with as much money he has obviously spent, personally I would have opted for a deep basement, just my opinion on spending his money. 😊👍 I will be watching to see the pour video.
They do not want stairs in there forever retirement home so thats why no basement. Gonna pour it tomorrow.
@@bondobuilt386 If they get to the time in their lives they want to sell, they may regret that decision, I have a flat ranch with a deep basement, I moved the laundry and most utilities upstairs so I don’t have to navigate the stairs, but when the time comes to sell, a young family will have the option of more storage, and extra space if their family expands, so resale will be easier in my opinion, just my thoughts. I will be watching for your pour video, I enjoy your videos more that the other concrete channels because I usually recognize where you are, I live locally, and I did mason work in this neck of the woods for many years myself before retiring.👍
It certainly seems like at least as much work as a regular plywood form panels, if not more. I suppose the advantage is it's easier to strip and you don't have to go back later to shoot insulation onto the foundation wall.
They work gtrat now. I too experienced trouble in the early days
@@phillipemmons3714 Yes Sir, they were problematic in the beginning.👍
IN the 70s I always put 2% CC and poured about and inch up into the wall when pouring mono. I always rented wall forms. These look great.
Great content Bondo, getting ready to do a garage in Taos NM using Foxblocks as well. Great idea with the conduit use. I've used 6 mil poly in the footer forms for my last few builds works great. One thing to remember when doing Ufer ground rod, concrete must be bearing directly on the dirt .
Thanks David. Good point on the ground rod. I think we will tie that into the concrete floor.
Nice job
I like how you cut out part of the fox block to have the concrete wash over and down the entire floor wall and footer at the same time
Hi Bondo.
I like that system. Good idea on the spreader bars. Cutting that building paper another time saving tip. That kind of idea can really help with the bottom line. Also with keeping the employees in a positive mood. Not having to unroll the whole roll to cut it up into 3 sections.
Ed from Chicago!
Thanks Ed. I am glad The videos are helpful to save time and effort for you guys.
On the drill press, you should set up a simple V block to center the conduit . Safer and saves time in setup
Great idea Steve thanks.
Thanks STEVE!
Great job ! Can’t wait for the pour 👍
Thanks Joe
Wow. Quite the project. Nice work. Like to see the pour. Thank you.
Thanks Wingman
Would really like to have you upload a video regarding the various ICF brands you have used and why you personally prefer one over the other...I think that would be really interesting to hear...
Excellent job! sorry for so many comments I've been watching for a while today😊
Looks great Ron. I did the same thing with the H/V clips. Cheap insurance to keep everything all together I figured. I like your idea with the monopour and galv. spreaders. I think you'll see others copy this technique. You could use turnbuckles on the bracing if you were going any higher with the block. Looks like you could use a little super-P in the mix and a conveyor should work fine. I love watching these video's. Sometimes I see something that helps me figure out what I'll do on my project.
Agree on the HV clips. I hope the spreader idea helps others. I would like to do a full basement wall like this and use the turnbuckles like you say or just the ICF bracing system. Glad the videos are helpful and thanks for always commenting it helps my channel grow.
Nice job can’t wait for the pour looks like it’s going to be a good one looks good
Thanks Gary
🔥never seen floating wall on footing like that, we do footing then rebars up every 4’ feet, strip forms.. then set blocks on over rebar and tie all vert and hor rebars. Really pumped to see the pour video. Why 3” trip step on porch, it’s a new build, drop porch wall 4” make it right for finish cap. Looks good tho boss 🔥👊🔥⚙️🔨🏍🚜
Thanks bud
I like the idea of pouring the wall and footer together. I hadn't even considered this as an idea for my future home. Hopefully, you're still doing footer work in a few years when I'm ready to start on mine. My property is just outside Phoenix, NY and love the attention to detail you guys do.
Cody Thanks. I am sure we will still be doing this work buddy. LOL
Footing*
Monopours are illegal in some areas.
@@brianthompson9485 Where is it illegal?
I don't think there's any advantage to a monopour other than saving some money on a pump. It really comes down to the particular situation for the project.
I have built braces and ready to build home and shop. Then some climate controlled storage buildings. We will be using Build Block" as they are located in Waxahachie Texas. Thanks for the great video. Will post ours when we get rolling
@Bondo Built, Hello I love that you are thinking out side of the box, when setting up ICF's !!! We are going to use ICF's for our build and I have never used ICF's before and I am convinced to utilizing them for our benefit. On the left side (which will be Kitchen/Living room with a 4"slab and I will undercut the ICF's by 4" to allow the slab...Right side I want a full basement, so I will be below grade around 8 feet.......I always like following your video's for the especial setting 2" rigid foam for the frost protect around the outer perimeter for frost protection of the 2.5 courses of ICF's!!! Cant wait for your nest part of that project...Take Care!!!
Thanks I am sure glad these videos are helping people like you with your projects Keep me posted when you build something and my videos helped you. I love hearing that feedback.
Looking forward to seeing pour day.
Will be videoing it 👍
Great videos. Thanks
Awesome video Great work!
Thanks William.
Nice well done😊
Rotor is doing his(?) job. Keeping everybody chill. That's what dogs do for people that love dogs. At least that is what my poodle does for me.....
Yes he is a good boy for sure. 😄
Been doing it like this for quite awhile. Instead of conduit we use rebar and notch the top of the footing form board to drop the rebar flush.
Then icf sits on top and L kickers big enough and wide enough to grab the bottom of icf and outside edge of footer form and screwed.
Awesome. Have you poured a full basement wall with footers at the same time or just stem walls?
@@bondobuilt386
Stems walls below the frost line so about 4 to 5 feet and shallow frost protected footing and stem walls.
We use L brackets made out of 2x6 with a triangle plywood gusset on both sides of the 2x6 L to set our footing form boards to height. The bottom of the L has a hole drilled for a rebar pin that we use to pound into the ground to set to our lines once we have the outside perimeter form set in place.
The L bracket is screwed to the footing form board with GRK torx screws that we reuse all the time.
So the L bracket is like a foot that holds the footing form board at our needed height and also is our brace.
If needed once everything is set we’ll come back and drive round rod for extra bracing and use metal strap around the footer after our spreaders are set on top to width.’
We always reuse our L brackets AKA braces for another pour
Great idea for notches on the footer form and the L brackets. Did you also space your rebar every 3' like the conduit here?
@@Patrioti3260 2 feet
I used a local company called ReddiWall. This was 20 years ago and ICF was pretty new to me. I used a product called form a drain which was a footing form and drain tile all in one. I always wondered if there was a way to use them in a mono pour.
Amvic makes AMPEX EPS for radiant floor insulation of R-10 to R-16. The Ampex holds the pex tubing easily in the heat welded vapour barrier.
2' x 4' Ampex interlocks with a t&g edge. The wire mesh is placed on top later. In this way you save alot of time by not having to tie down the pex, you can stand up to install the tubing, no kneeling
I have used that but found it was expensive.
I think we are going to start stapling the tubing to the foam and wire on top of tubing.
Good job! I love my new Yamana also!
Thanks Rich
Paying attention to the detail💯.Very impressive! When I talk to older age builders who used to use ICF blocks they say it is easy as lego blocks to put up an ICF full basement wall. I have to wonder if they paid attention to enough detail like you do Bondo? The care for not only the clamps but drilling blocks and bracing things up all takes patience to do it right. Thank you for showing the detail so help us understand.
Cheers from Atlantic Canada🇨🇦👍
There is much more to these blocks than some people think. You definitely need patience to get it perfect and not have problems on the day its poured.
@@bondobuilt386 Indeed. From your experience are you finding that Fox Blocks are better than nudura because Fox Blocks do not have the hinge device in them like Nudura does? I have been researching to compare the two. Finding a Fox Block ICF contractor here on Prince Edward Island, Atlantic Canada is another story...patience .. once again eh! ☺ 🇨🇦
I did this 5 years ago for my garage build here in Gore Bay.
My dad designed and patent the block that Fox Block is calling their own. Fox Block stole my dads patent and my dad didn't have enough money to go after them. Fox Block didn't change anything about my dads design that he spend years designing and a lot of money developing. Hopefully some day my family gets made whole as Fox Block is the number one block on the market.
Sorry to hear that Robert.
A patent attorney will take this type of case for free, much like an attorney will take an accident case for a share of the settlement. If your claim is true, settle it within the law.
@@b79rad Thank you!
Try the Fabform monopour system with the Fox Blocks. It's a plastic fabric footer bag that attaches to the Fox Blocks which are leveled inside the bag with Zevelers, drill adjust turnbuckles. No lumber or cross ties and a speedy monopour.
Ya I seen that system.
They also make the bracing for the ICF wall and it's way cheaper than most bracing and fits into a tote.
IN the south, my concern of the pipe is allowing pests in and water. I heard you say a weep hole, but i See the water going in more than coming out. Not a concrete guy, I assume the "spreader are to keep the forms in place during the pour. The stakes on the outside will keep them from spreading, so I would assume they are there to help keep them from closing in on each other. Since #4 rebar is about the same price as conduit, and could help structural strength (not necessary but added) Why not do something like that. Use the corner of a box to support the rebar with one staple to hold it up. Have a template set up to hold the boards in place while they are hammered in, kinda of like the stud master 16 from talon tools but for your purpose as temp spreader. I think it would be faster also since you would not screw the pipes in, or boards, just one staple from a pneumatic stapler. Save on screw cost and time. For the board used on the bottom, the 12
inch 2x6, you could also pre-make these with holes pre-drilled holes in the top board so your 3" screws go thru and you don't have to disassemble them to remove them. I would paint them a unique color so during cleanup, you would know these are reusable and not waste. A little more time the first time, but the 50th time would be happy you did it the first time.
Very cool Bondo!
Thanks John
for outside corner support I use a spreader on a 45 degree angle so that is will support the ICF corner foam only. Later in the video I see you did place conduits at the 45 angle
My nephew in COLORADO has been building commercial and residential homes out of concrete ,for years . I stayed in his concrete walled house a few summers ago 12 foot ceilings and heated granite floors ,There was an instantaneous water heater with 7 of us staying there and we NEVER ran out of hot h20 ! He used foam forms .
I have been installing Fox block for the past 4 going on 5 years. Not everyday, or all year, but at least 1-3 basements and 6 plus garages and foundations a year. I Love learning new ways to go about the work I do and materials that are used to get the job done! Great work! Do u have video of you pouring? Nice call on the conveyer belt vs. regular pump truck. Don't have to worry about it coming out with a pause👊💪
ua-cam.com/video/WCmFfuICvLQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Fr9um9L9_vtxqVsY
Thanks for the comment and glad the videos are helpful. Here is the pour video. Be sure to subscribe we are ding more of these this year but a little different.
Bondo,
This video is great timing for my current project.
Just now excavating and coordinating the plumber and electrician to move the existing water line from under a slab on grade addition.
Using Build Block 6” ICF for the first time. My engineer drew up the footers 24” wide x 12” deep, with lots of rebar. One length of the footers is 30” x 12” and going under the existing house on pier construction. A bit of a pain but oh well. I am using Form A Drain and it only come 8” high will put that at the base of the footer and 2” x 4” s on top to get to 12” footer depth.
Would you consider a 24” wide ICF as the footer itself and form a drain attached on the outside perimeter !
This would make installing the 2 rows 3 wide rebar installed in the footer easier, and add frost protection ?
The lay out parts of this video will help me square up everything in the trenches.
Planning a 2 inch bed of gravel under all to help with drainage.
Sounds like a good project. I don't think there are 24" ICF blocks. Glad this video is helpful.
I dug out the whole lot and put footers around the outside and uses cement blocks up from the footers and put the house on steel stumps and the house covered all the area with a door in one side to keep out cold air
subbed, I'm really interested in ICF technology
Awesome thanks
We don't use Tee blocks as they add work and expense. That is because when you use Tee blocks it adds common seams, it adds two common seams with each Tee block.
I fabricate my T's with nudura.
Love it!
Thanks
fox block rock!
Who would have imagined that when you grew up you would still be playing with Lego's. ;)
LOL yup I know 😀
My apologies if I missed it, but what's the house wrap under the footings for, to keep the concrete from pouring out the bottom of the forms?
It is there as a moisture preventer. Keeps the footer from wicking up the water.
Looks Grate!!
These must be the last bud light beers that were bought. An historic video.
Ya the last ones I have bought for sure. LOL
@@bondobuilt386 Have you seen their fresh new ad, making fun of you, the ones that bought it before.?!
Literally, the people in marketing are either dumb AF or are anti-men. Because at this moment in time this new ad shows complete disrespect towards the men.
I never drank this stuff, i don't like beer i general, i'm with whiskey, rum, stuff like that, but man, this bud light story is one for the records.
@@bondobuilt386 Also, i was just tapping the video at various time stamps seing how the work was preogressing, and i clicked right when you guys were opening those beers and showing to the camera. A few seconds. Had i not pressed the exact moment, i would've missed it completely.
I was interested in the monopour showcase
@@roberts.wilson1848 Yes they completely ruined there brand. dumb asses.
Awesome video. I like the amount of details you show. It's a reality check to the Lego block simplicity advertised by all ICF manufacturers. Hope you will be telling us the pros and cons of Fox Block vs Nudura at the end of the project. I am curious as to what/if you will do something to block the conduit or if it even necessary. Could you use this conduits system for a full basement foundation?
This could definitely be used for a full height wall.I will try and explain my take on the two blocks. The conduit will not be an issue and will be under the floor on a full basement. Good weep holes if water needs to escape out to the perimeter drain.
@@bondobuilt386 awesome,thanks
Have you ever done or considered doing an insulated raft slab foundation? Where there's insulation all around the edge beam that then also continues below the slab, and is used as a form, then whole thing is poured at once?
I have not. We did a big slab last summer but dug it out after to install the frost protected foam detail.
@@bondobuilt386 Ouch. Yeah I'd love to build a house that had a slab like that. Easier to seal everything up, too, though some radon system would probably still be needed. Too bad I'm so far away (NJ) from where you do this stuff at.
Wow boss did you come up with this way of setting up the poor like that's Amazing
Yes I developed this method myself. 👍
This is going to help me out big time. I'm getting ready to build a swimming pool, and i use banding iron for spread footings and i was trying to figure how to connect to the foxblocks to the spread footings and monno pour like you are doing . Well this will work better for sher .
That will be a BIG HOUSE
It will be nice when finished.
Have you considered using basalt rebar? Doesn't rust, is much lighter than steel and installs quicker.
Man, that’s a ton of work before “here comes the mud!”.
Yup for sure 👍
I am considering an ICF mono pour for a 9' high basement. The tricky part is that I also want to do a suspended concrete ceiling. Is there a theoretical max height for a monopour footer/ wall? I want to avoid having to hire a pump truck 3-4 different times.
What was the difference between the Logix block and the Fox Block? I’m about to begin my project with the Logix brand. I’m willing to pay the extra cost if the product is better. Great videos and Thanks 🙏
Been reading a lot on spalling and water infiltration don’t you have a problem with water access through your spreaders seems any pathway would be bad really bad?
Interesting way of doing things. What is the size of your footer forms. Looks like either 2x8 or is it 2x10? Why did you place the lowes fabric in the bottom of the footer?
Is there No rebar going from the fox blocks down into the ground into the footings???
always need those safety meetings
Yup for sure. LOL
Could you use steel strapping for spreaders
Time wise is this faster or less expensive than pouring footers, laying blocks and insulating ? Looks good, but seems like a lot of work and cost.
concrete blocks will always be cheaper. The ICF is less labor intensive and way stronger but definitely more expensive. On this job it was to cold to lay blocks without heating the mortar and using anifreeze so timing was great for this one. Also the ICF is more DIY than concrete blocks.
16👍's up BB thank you for sharing 🎉😮
Thanks Scott
Why the house wrap in the bottom of the footer? to prevent rising damp? (@ 7:20 Footing 20" wide 10" deep, Spreader boards (conduit) 24" wide (each board nominal 2") ( forms 24"OD - 4" =20" ID)
Yes it is going to stop the footer from wicking up water and it will help me keep my planks from getting all concrete. Easy clean up.
@@bondobuilt386 looking forward to seeing the monopour and stripping of the forms.
@@bondobuilt386I have seen guys put old car oil on the planks so the concrete doesnt stick. Seems to work well.
If you slope your garage floor to the outside 2” you don’t need to drop garage floor 4”. That way you can keep the top of your floors flush if you want to.
No bracing or turn buckles. Never seen it done like this. How do you straighten up your walls when pouring?
I work alone with hired help when needed. I considered these blocks because it would be easier on the back but man it seams like an awful lot of work for frost walls.
They are lighter than concrete blocks though. LOL
Drill a hole big enough for the cement paste of the concrete to go in in the middle of the pipes directed upwards
And they will probably plug them self
Up when you pour .
There is no need for the pipes to be plugged.
Will it make a cold joint between the footer and the wall ? What about your seal bolts they going in the wall pour or the floor poor
Floor pour on the house and wall pour on the garage.
Bondo - could you please explain what the misc wood blocks on the ICF forms are for? Looks like they are tying seams together?How are they attached? Great job!
They hold the blocks together where there is an odd size that won't lock together. A common seam. we screw them into the plastic studs.
@@bondobuilt386 thanks Bondo!
Doing a mono pour is to me the best way to Keep water from getting through the solid concrete footer to walls. I like the idea of using 1/2" conduit but each of those conduit's will allow water to come through unless you cut them off at the wall and fill the holes on both side with foam and caulk to seal it from water getting through. Which is easier to work with Fox Block or Nudura Block.
😂 Big P “that’s why we keep a couple of these as spare”
Wow 10 inch thick footer, 3 storey house ? We're usually 6 x 20 with 2 rebar here in Ontario.
Ron, looks Great ! why did you change to FOX from Nudura ?
spray foam under the concert? Is that a new York thing ?
I would wire tie my rebar to the conduit to keep the wall from lifting. Just saves some time imho.
Yes not a bad idea
Have price this out but im in fl not sure if they sell here or not
have you ever used the product form-a-drain. its a footer form and it also provides drainage.... hence the name. Nice product
I've never seen building paper under a footing before. Is that some kind of local requirement? Does it provide freeze thaw protection or something else? In my region of Oregon we need to provide radon protection under living areas but that takes the form of a vapor barrier like 6 mil and we don't have to put under the footer.
That is there to prevent the footer from wicking up water and also to keep the form lumber cleaner and ease of stripping the forms also.
@@bondobuilt386 Nice try, but such hacks are unacceptable where I live. Here there must be a clear and continuous vapor barrier across the whole house.
But I am happy that the problem was considered at all. In most of the ICF videos on YT there are not attempts at all to prevent diffusion of moisture from the soil into the walls.
Here we make first the footing, then a reinforced slab ON TOP of the footing. (you can put XPS below in the middle). Then comes a 0.15-0.2" continuous layer of vapor barrier. The walls (bricks, ICF...) are built on top of this vapor barrier. Everything below this vapor barrier is considered wet, and everything above is dry. If the this vapor barrier is below ground level, then the insulation is continued outside upward on the walls.
How many days did it take to get done what you guys did at the end of the video?
About 5 days.
Nice
Thanks
Upstate New York here as well, Boonville area! Were abouts are you located?👍🇺🇸
We are I Mexico New York.
I really feel to work in construction and especially in concrete you got to have thick skin and when it's go time it's go time! I've always been so wound tight ready for the truck ahead of time when the mud shows up it's go time already😅
I hear ya. LOL
Watching big biscuit cut those corners made me think how nice it would be to use a sawmill to cut those???
They don't make blueprints anymore
Drawings or plans?
Never seen, using what looks like tyvek at bottom of the footers...different. looks good though
Thanks
This looks like a lot more work than FastFoot.
Perhaps but one pour and we are done.
@@bondobuilt386 FastFoot is commonly used for monopour, too. ua-cam.com/video/5YqJLWg8LUQ/v-deo.html
Have you seen the Nudera fab-form, mono pour
Yes I have.
hope you repainted that buggy so it doesnt look like a transbeercan
Bud Light ; Get them boys a Rainbow Flag ,
When's the wedding boy's ?
Y’all better watch out with that bud light.
Watch part 2 we switched to Genny
If your going to rely on foam board to prevent heave, why dig so deep? Or why not another foot deeper so the integrity of your foundation doesn't rely on a method that's not time tested? Thanks
He should have done a full ICF house.
Have you ever looked at the Foothold ICF Footing System.
I have seen that system yes.
Im not sure if someone has asked but was PVC was ever an option considering its much cheaper and it maybe strong enough to keep the fox block in place....What was your reasoning for metal over PVC?
I absolutely love your concept!
@@ehall-oo1sp Thanks. The PVC would sag from the concrete as you filled the wall But yes I considered it.
Vertical rebar from the footers?
Yes we had put verticals in.
What do these foam things cost would it not be cheaper to just lay solid cinder blocks. Foam idea has been around for over 50 years nothing new however that plastic should be metal inside of the foam pieces then I am sold.
Anyone have suggestions for a consultant in Oregon for a monolithic foundation pour for someone who can't afford the quotes I got? Bids here have been all over for a simple 58'X24' and 15"18" footing... I can't pay 25K and contractors are busy so would like to do it myself... city said that it is fine, they inspect.