I ran my steel gears through a tumbler with stainless steel tumbling media to polish them and knock off the rough edges on them. That helped to quiet them down.
The one we've been waiting for! Outstanding job sir, that was a lot more work than a simple bearing swap - kudos for going the technically more complex taper bearing route 🙏
Thank you for the kind words. We will see if they are any better or worse than angular contact bearings. These were definitely a lot cheaper. I feel that I needed the steel gears with me working on putting a much larger motor on the lathe. But, It was all fun to do. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Thank You, Bearing preload not only tricky but important also. I will probably have to check the preload occasionally, I'm sure as the bearings wear in the preload will change. It was a fun project, Thanks for watching and commenting.
A lot of your pre-load force was crushing the plastic elements. As they heat and cool during multiple uses, they will squish out and get thinner, thereby allowing the bearings to get closer, tighter, (via the inner shims collapsing), and looser, (via the larger outer bushing collapsing), simultaneously. Have you considered replacing the plastic with aluminum or steel? Especially the larger outer bushing? The inner 0.050" shims may not be important as they would only be needed to keep the gears from moving laterally, which 0.050" to 0.100" lateral movement of the gears would be inconsequential. In a 'High Pressure' application, such as an automotive rear differential, a steel bushing, (Crush Ring, or Crush Collar) is installed between the inner and outer pinion bearings, and is then crushed by tightening the bearings until enough bearing friction is generated while turning the pinion. In racing applications the pinion is disassembled again and the crush ring is removed and measured and replaced by a solid steel ring measuring 0.003"-0.005" less, compensating for the spring back from unloading of the crush ring. We probably don't need to go that far, but using some of the principles in setting bearing preload may be helpful. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks for the video. I am on my 4th or 5th set of tapered roller bearings in mine. I seem to be tightening them too much but am not sure. They make noise as soon as I put them in. I wish I would have seen this video before the last time I took my lathe apart. I could have made those .050" shims. I also need to cut down the outer spacer. ...I guess.
It seems to me that if you don't have the proper shims and spacers in the right places you could very easily mess up your new bearings. Thats why I went through the trouble of measuring and drawing everything out on paper. It seemed to be easier to understand. And then setting the preload. But thats just me.
Tapered bearing are far better than regular bearings in many ways , most of all side load when facing and parting ! My lathe has a 2 HP motor and when I got it I had no problems parting .. now I at times do .. and I am going for the taper bearing swap to get better preload and better side load .. I have done a bunch of study on this .. folks want to argue on this but there wrong !! great swap ..
Everything you said is true 👍 about tapered roller bearings. That is what they were designed for. Thanks for watching and commenting, have a great day 😀.
For parting, also look into a rear-mounted parting blade holder. Holds the blade upside-down on the far side of the work. The way the cutting forces end up with a setup like that can be very beneficial for small lathes
Hello Slinger, I've been thinking about it for a couple of years. But now that I plan on doing a larger motor upgrade, I felt I had to do it. Hey, thanks for watching.
Glenn, how did you polish the spindle. I was thinking about putting it in another wood lathe i have but i am worried i cant get even. Any advice? Thanks, Ted
Hello Ted, First you need a way to measure the ID of the bearings and the OD of the spindle. Very accurately. I only polished or removed about .0003 to .0004 of material off the spindle. I used another lathe with a large center in the tail stock I used some 320 & 400 grit emery paper. I would make a pass or two across the spindle and measure. Over and over and over again. Be patient, it takes a long time. Measure the bearing ID very accurately and keep checking to see if the bearing will slip on. Good luck I'm sure you can do this. Patience wins the game. Let me know how things works out.
@@GlennNowOnUA-cam Hi Glen, I did it today and it slips on perfectly. I started with some automotive compound but switched to some 1x30 sanding belts I have. Your not kidding about being patient. Finished at 1000grit. Noe I went down a rabbit hole trying to get the carriage to ride (fit) better. Thanks for the help and great videos. Ted
I knew you could do this. Its starting out and getting past the " Can I do this or will I ruin it" stage. Have fun with all your Mini Lathe Projects. until next time, Enjoy.
I ordered the bearings from Amazon. Here's the Info I used when I ordered mine. 30206 Taper Roller Wheel Bearings 30 x 62 x 17.25 The brand was VXB. I just googled that info and my old Amazon order came up. Good luck with your project.
A real simple answer would be something like, If you're cutting hard materials you would go with low gear. Softer materials would be high gear. That would be just the beginning when talking gears. Be careful and enjoy your lathe. Thanks for watching.
I ran my steel gears through a tumbler with stainless steel tumbling media to polish them and knock off the rough edges on them. That helped to quiet them down.
That was a great idea. I have a small tumbler, I should have done that also. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
I Subbed because of this video. Nice presentation. 🎉.
The one we've been waiting for! Outstanding job sir, that was a lot more work than a simple bearing swap - kudos for going the technically more complex taper bearing route 🙏
Thank you for the kind words. We will see if they are any better or worse than angular contact bearings. These were definitely a lot cheaper. I feel that I needed the steel gears with me working on putting a much larger motor on the lathe. But, It was all fun to do. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Great Job! Bearing preload is always tricky.
Thank You, Bearing preload not only tricky but important also. I will probably have to check the preload occasionally, I'm sure as the bearings wear in the preload will change. It was a fun project, Thanks for watching and commenting.
A lot of your pre-load force was crushing the plastic elements. As they heat and cool during multiple uses, they will squish out and get thinner, thereby allowing the bearings to get closer, tighter, (via the inner shims collapsing), and looser, (via the larger outer bushing collapsing), simultaneously. Have you considered replacing the plastic with aluminum or steel? Especially the larger outer bushing? The inner 0.050" shims may not be important as they would only be needed to keep the gears from moving laterally, which 0.050" to 0.100" lateral movement of the gears would be inconsequential. In a 'High Pressure' application, such as an automotive rear differential, a steel bushing, (Crush Ring, or Crush Collar) is installed between the inner and outer pinion bearings, and is then crushed by tightening the bearings until enough bearing friction is generated while turning the pinion. In racing applications the pinion is disassembled again and the crush ring is removed and measured and replaced by a solid steel ring measuring 0.003"-0.005" less, compensating for the spring back from unloading of the crush ring. We probably don't need to go that far, but using some of the principles in setting bearing preload may be helpful. Thanks for making this video.
Great video Glenn, thanks for sharing 👍 Definitely need to do this mod to my mini lathe at some point!
If you're going to use your lathe alot you most likely should change out the spindle bearings. Thanks for stopping by.
Thanks for the video. I am on my 4th or 5th set of tapered roller bearings in mine. I seem to be tightening them too much but am not sure. They make noise as soon as I put them in. I wish I would have seen this video before the last time I took my lathe apart. I could have made those .050" shims. I also need to cut down the outer spacer. ...I guess.
It seems to me that if you don't have the proper shims and spacers in the right places you could very easily mess up your new bearings. Thats why I went through the trouble of measuring and drawing everything out on paper. It seemed to be easier to understand. And then setting the preload. But thats just me.
Tapered bearing are far better than regular bearings in many ways , most of all side load when facing and parting ! My lathe has a 2 HP motor and when I got it I had no problems parting .. now I at times do .. and I am going for the taper bearing swap to get better preload and better side load .. I have done a bunch of study on this .. folks want to argue on this but there wrong !! great swap ..
Everything you said is true 👍 about tapered roller bearings. That is what they were designed for. Thanks for watching and commenting, have a great day 😀.
For parting, also look into a rear-mounted parting blade holder. Holds the blade upside-down on the far side of the work. The way the cutting forces end up with a setup like that can be very beneficial for small lathes
Hey, thanks, Glenn. I've been thinking about this upgrade.
Hello Slinger, I've been thinking about it for a couple of years. But now that I plan on doing a larger motor upgrade, I felt I had to do it. Hey, thanks for watching.
Glenn, how did you polish the spindle. I was thinking about putting it in another wood lathe i have but i am worried i cant get even. Any advice?
Thanks, Ted
Hello Ted, First you need a way to measure the ID of the bearings and the OD of the spindle. Very accurately. I only polished or removed about .0003 to .0004 of material off the spindle. I used another lathe with a large center in the tail stock I used some 320 & 400 grit emery paper. I would make a pass or two across the spindle and measure. Over and over and over again. Be patient, it takes a long time. Measure the bearing ID very accurately and keep checking to see if the bearing will slip on. Good luck I'm sure you can do this. Patience wins the game. Let me know how things works out.
@@GlennNowOnUA-cam Hi Glen, I did it today and it slips on perfectly. I started with some automotive compound but switched to some 1x30 sanding belts I have. Your not kidding about being patient. Finished at 1000grit. Noe I went down a rabbit hole trying to get the carriage to ride (fit) better. Thanks for the help and great videos. Ted
I knew you could do this. Its starting out and getting past the " Can I do this or will I ruin it" stage. Have fun with all your Mini Lathe Projects. until next time, Enjoy.
is there a part number for the bearings
Thanks.
I ordered the bearings from Amazon. Here's the Info I used when I ordered mine. 30206 Taper Roller Wheel Bearings 30 x 62 x 17.25 The brand was VXB. I just googled that info and my old Amazon order came up. Good luck with your project.
@@GlennNowOnUA-cam Thankyou Sir.
Very nice work sir
Thank You very much for watching. I had lots of fun with doing that project, I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Excellent video
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Did the new bearings improve the runout of the spindle?
Yes, it did improve the runout. It also helped to get better finishes on the work piece.
I'm new to all of this and pretty much been running at high gear. What is the advantage to running it in low gear?
A real simple answer would be something like, If you're cutting hard materials you would go with low gear. Softer materials would be high gear. That would be just the beginning when talking gears. Be careful and enjoy your lathe. Thanks for watching.
usually you dribble some gear oil over the steel gears
Oil or grease, it's all good 👍