Very nice tutorial. I really appreciate all of your videos as I am a mostly a self taught fly tyer and the majority of my instruction comes from UA-cam. If you ever have the time it would be nice to see a video on the different glues, solvents, zap a gap, head cement, etc. What are the intended uses and which applicators are the best all around. Thanks again and don't forget to go fishing. D. Bryan, Louisville, KY
Thanks for the comments, D. Bryan, and I will keep those glues in mind for a future video. I also really appreciate the last thing you said; thanks again!
Tim, I am a second year tyer and have really enjoyed your videos. I am currently tying the elk hair cadis and we only learned with dubbing. I am going to try the yarn and the biots. I like the segmented look of the biots. Thanks for your help. Dale Yeager Honey Brook, Pa.
Dale, I appreciate the comments and glad that you're gaining some information from these videos. Good luck with everything, and keep me updated on your tying. Tim
It's all right; I used to really get into dying certain materials (especially mallard feathers to a wood duck color using tea), but have gotten away from it in recent times. It's quite messy, but some people swear by it. My advice is to begin by buying various colors of rabbit skins, and blend them (don't forget to write down your recipe!). This is less messy, and you can always simply add more of a color if it doesn't turn out correct. Just my two cents...good luck! TC
Hi Tim, I'm relatively new to fly tying, and like so many others, your videos are extremely helpful. But I have to question the use of cotton thread on a dry fly. Doesn't cotton absorb water? Again, thank you for sharing your expertise with us. Cheers - Bob Hendry.
+Bob Hendry Bob, thanks for the email, and in short, yes, the cotton absorbs water. In reality, most of the materials we use on dry flies (i.e. dubbing and biots) will absorb water, thus the key is to create a thin body. If you can get a fine amount of thread on, basically enough to cover the shank, you've done perfect! For beginners, using that method is a little easier, and then I recommend attempting other styles for the body. Additionally, be sure to use floatant on the flies, unless you want to fish them more in the surface film to represent an emerger. Thanks again for the comment, and kind words! Tim
Yes sir iam back again i hope i not boring u to death with so many questions theres 2 i want to ask u one is do u have any problems with ur glues turning a dull white any glue for sealing head threads in which i am having and next question is which in wood work which i used a lathe to crave out wood bait and u really never could get the same two baits to look a like and i always heard that u could not and u cant and i beleive it same thing with fly tying i can never seem to get to streamers heads the same when tying one will turn out little bigger than other i think what causes that is puting a little bit more material on it like bucktails ect ect and just hate it i use mostly 140 thread for 2 and 4 streamers size hook deceivers and flys made in the 2 4 hook size range i use marabou and deer tails and i just wanted to know ur opinion on it my biggest problem with making flys is not geting my heads excatly the same thank u as always for ur advice and hope aint boring u with so many question
James, thanks for the questions, and I hope I can help. For starters, the main dulling I have experienced is with UV glues. To prevent that, I seal them with a varnish or head cement (if I'm trying to maintain a shine). Regarding threads, I mainly use UNI and can tell you that the size will greatly impact the finished head. If I had to take a guess, more than likely you are selecting different sizes of materials, which are causing the size variation. The uniformity will come with experience and pushing yourself to maintaining proportions. If you need any specific recommendations for threads, just shoot me an email: tcammisa@gmail.com Thanks again, and I hope all is well. Tim
Very nice tutorial. I really appreciate all of your videos as I am a mostly a self taught fly tyer and the majority of my instruction comes from UA-cam. If you ever have the time it would be nice to see a video on the different glues, solvents, zap a gap, head cement, etc. What are the intended uses and which applicators are the best all around. Thanks again and don't forget to go fishing. D. Bryan, Louisville, KY
Thanks for the comments, D. Bryan, and I will keep those glues in mind for a future video. I also really appreciate the last thing you said; thanks again!
Tim, I am a second year tyer and have really enjoyed your videos. I am currently tying the elk hair cadis and we only learned with dubbing. I am going to try the yarn and the biots. I like the segmented look of the biots. Thanks for your help.
Dale Yeager
Honey Brook, Pa.
Dale, I appreciate the comments and glad that you're gaining some information from these videos. Good luck with everything, and keep me updated on your tying. Tim
It's all right; I used to really get into dying certain materials (especially mallard feathers to a wood duck color using tea), but have gotten away from it in recent times. It's quite messy, but some people swear by it. My advice is to begin by buying various colors of rabbit skins, and blend them (don't forget to write down your recipe!). This is less messy, and you can always simply add more of a color if it doesn't turn out correct. Just my two cents...good luck! TC
Thanks for the idea, Chad; I will definitely think about that one. I tend to blend dubbings now versus dying them. Are you familiar with that process?
Hi Tim,
I'm relatively new to fly tying, and like so many others, your videos are extremely helpful. But I have to question the use of cotton thread on a dry fly. Doesn't cotton absorb water?
Again, thank you for sharing your expertise with us.
Cheers - Bob Hendry.
+Bob Hendry Bob, thanks for the email, and in short, yes, the cotton absorbs water. In reality, most of the materials we use on dry flies (i.e. dubbing and biots) will absorb water, thus the key is to create a thin body. If you can get a fine amount of thread on, basically enough to cover the shank, you've done perfect! For beginners, using that method is a little easier, and then I recommend attempting other styles for the body. Additionally, be sure to use floatant on the flies, unless you want to fish them more in the surface film to represent an emerger. Thanks again for the comment, and kind words! Tim
Could you do a video on dying dubbing a how to video there is not no good ones that I have found
not too much I am new at fly tying
Yes sir iam back again i hope i not boring u to death with so many questions theres 2 i want to ask u one is do u have any problems with ur glues turning a dull white any glue for sealing head threads in which i am having and next question is which in wood work which i used a lathe to crave out wood bait and u really never could get the same two baits to look a like and i always heard that u could not and u cant and i beleive it same thing with fly tying i can never seem to get to streamers heads the same when tying one will turn out little bigger than other i think what causes that is puting a little bit more material on it like bucktails ect ect and just hate it i use mostly 140 thread for 2 and 4 streamers size hook deceivers and flys made in the 2 4 hook size range i use marabou and deer tails and i just wanted to know ur opinion on it my biggest problem with making flys is not geting my heads excatly the same thank u as always for ur advice and hope aint boring u with so many question
James, thanks for the questions, and I hope I can help. For starters, the main dulling I have experienced is with UV glues. To prevent that, I seal them with a varnish or head cement (if I'm trying to maintain a shine). Regarding threads, I mainly use UNI and can tell you that the size will greatly impact the finished head. If I had to take a guess, more than likely you are selecting different sizes of materials, which are causing the size variation. The uniformity will come with experience and pushing yourself to maintaining proportions. If you need any specific recommendations for threads, just shoot me an email: tcammisa@gmail.com Thanks again, and I hope all is well. Tim