Just a tip, if you want to avoid problems with the crank bolts next you need a thicker flexplate. I welded a double center in the puller because the thin flex plate wanted to knife shear the crank bolts once we went to 12bolt and quit breaking them. Those diamond impregnated washers are important too. I would have borrowed a mig welder and welded the TC to the flex plate thru the holes just to get it to pull off the dyno and get the win.
I'd be happy to find a 12v that just put out 600hp for my Tow rig. Probably be a bit more of a reliable workhorse than the worn-out 6.5 that's in there now.
Never in my life did I expect to see 2000 plus horsepower out of a Cummins 12V diesel. You guys are setting new records with your amazing efforts and always strive for more. Always waitin for your next video.
Levi Marquez it would definitely add some strength in shear but from the sound of it they have the torque converters they like and that’s that. But i agree... 6 bolts for clamping and six dowels for shear sounds cool.
Just run 6 in the 12 bolt. That way you can still push it, still sheer the bolts. But have 6 more holes to re bolt it back together and get it off the dyno!
I just wana say i love these videos i could sit and listen to you guys talk about trucks for hours always look forward to these keep it up! Oh ya keep killing it with the 12v you guys are legends.
Could you machine the torque converter cover to accept 3/4" bolt and mill larger holes in the billet flex plate? More surface area for loctite and stronger bolts. Win win.
Have you considered using an aviation type safety wire & grade 8 drilled bolts or better yet some aviation type titanium drilled for safety wire bolts to prevent the converter bolts from backing out? You might have to have your converters made with a fine thread to use bolts like these. If you can break 12 of these, you have some serious engineering challenges ahead.
Nickel based alloys would be better, titanium is great for strength to weight ratio but not ultimate strength. Inconel alloy might be a better choice, the high temperature properties are not needed but the strength is amazing.
matrixssc2 I’d be up for machining a custom flex plate for them out of Inconel or titanium. I’d do like you said and machine in some key ways and use titanium for the keys as well.
@@chloehennessey6813 ideally the flex plate and keys would be one piece. Think splines on the outside of the torque converter and inside the flexplate .. Also, those metal are excessive as most SFI flexplates are steel
matrixssc2 Thanks didn’t know that. I’m just basing what id machine off what metals we have here and what we normally machine for the aerospace industry. I just figured if the metals are good enough for say RocketDyne they should be okay in a truck?
Thanks for sharing the ups and downs of the event for the whole crew. High performance racing is full of all of it, glad to see you guys persevere through it. Enjoy seeing the firewire vs mechanical mafia show. Competition makes everyone better. Hope the fix for Frankenstein is an easy one. What do you plan to do about the converter bolts?
@Jim C - Well Jim C, gotta tell you then - most Norwegians, Danish, Sweedish, Finnish people are making fun out of Greta T. So I guess I'm an idiot too then.
Wow! That was CRAZY!!! Did you see the one dude walking out kinda shaking his head a lil??.. his eyes were somewhere else..like his bell got rung, like when a boxer take an almost knock out punch. Great job guys!! But Tina got a little warm there. Lol..
Aerospace Grade fasteners and 0.032” lock-wiring I think would be essential with so much torque/horsepower. There’s a reason why Jet Engines have lock-wire everywhere. Great vids and channel!!! Love you guys!!! I love my 2005 5.9 Cummins!!!! Would love to visit your shop sometime!!! Billy from CT
If that P-PUMP breaks 3000hp it's gona break a lot of hearts, if I have said it once I have said it a hundered times 12 valve is hear for a good time not along time
Some loctite tips are to clean bolts and holes with brake cleaner and then blow out with compressed air then use the loctite primer (7649) before you apply the loctite (262). If you have a blind hole put some in the hole and on the bolt otherwise what is on the bolt will actually get forced up the threads as you screw the bolt into the hole and push the air from the hole. Also have to remember heat will breakdown the loctite. I have sat through loctite training classes and learned a ton about what we had been doing wrong. If the bolt comes out without crusty loctite on it you didnt do something right is a good rule to go by. Hope some of that might help.
Big power numbers only happen on hub dyno's. Its the reason why the field has been stuck around 2.5k whp for the past 3 years. Get them on a hub dyno and watch records fall a lot more frequently.
i friken love that 2030 pull. love the look on people’s faces and the crowds response!! imagine what it could have hit! can’t wait to see this years accomplishments.
that's bull you guys should have won. the truck still ran after the pull. I mean heck if there gonna do you like that do a run with a direct drive top fuel drag transmission and straight up break that dyno
Basic thing to do is shut it down let it cool add water pinch the cote tubes leaking leave the radiator cap loose so the radiator doesnt build pressure Why not run 6 bolts and 6 studs If you have to pull it remove the bolts and slide the converters over the studs Maybe they will help spread the torque You guys are truly gear heads
"aircraft grade" is the same thing, just machined instead of cast. That wouldn't make a difference compared to other high quality hardware. And safety wire will help with backing, but not with shearing.
I live in Colorado and drive up through vail monthly. I have a 2001 24 valve. Sure is a hill but these 2nd gens are unbelievable. Never towed more than 7k though
The godfather is the most badass rig in the world. Breaking every single part possible it makes so much power. Cant wait to see it break 3,000 on a dyno one day
That climb up Vail Pass and later up to the tunnel has claimed many vehicles, glad you stopped before you caused damage. Many aren't that smart, see a lot of carnage there 🙂
People try and knock ats all the time but honestly Clint under yalls truck helping says a lot about both of you guys companies. Ive got several trucks with both of yalls products and have nothing but good to say about both of yalls companies!! Too many people just knock products they deliberately abuse and trash then blame everyone but themselves for the damage
@@jbandit2044 I have a d3 rear diff cover for my d44 and its rounded and they stopped making those in the 90s. But I ain't arguing with you that almost all before banks has square designs
Those common fails got nothing on the ol 2nd gen!! Love the videos, one of these days PDD is going to take the 3k hp crown. Good luck this year I'm rooting for you guys!!
Use AVV loctite we use those for setting a 1/2 inch stud but you gotta use primer T those aren’t going anywhere. I’ve had at least 500 ftlbs on it and it still didn’t spin.MAKE SURE YOUR HOLE AND BOLTS ARE CLEAN LIKE CLEAN CLEAN LIKE WITH ALCOHOL/409 And DONT TOUCH IT WITH YOUR FINGERS. Your oils will contaminate it.
Adam Theede the smoke is excessive fuel. From my understanding, having smoke won’t rob power, but it’s wasted at that point. No smoke means a better/cleaner combustion
@@dburkh91 and where smoke is, there is not so much o2, you can see that in the faces of the "smoke"-crowd :) I think you will have bigger numbers outside.
Probably the biggest part of the difference between the Superflow and Mustang numbers. The Superflow was outside and the engines aren't reburning exhaust. Huge difference. Engine dyno rooms using ambient air like an air exchange rate of 10 or more times per minute ( all the air in the cell is evacuated with fresh air 10+ times per minute).
While I can see that it would be a gigantic PITA to have 12 converter bolts I don't see where you all have many other options if you want to guarantee that this won't continue to be an issue.
@@pddofficial I haven't dealt with that type of torque converter so I'm trying to figure out how you all used different bolts, every converter I've dealt with the studs are attached to the converter. Doesn't seem to be worth the risk to not run 8 or 10 bolts at least, that being said I'm not a gambler. I have a tendency to overbuild stuff, especially if my first iteration breaks. I'm pulling for you guys and still waiting for you all to start making 68RFE parts. I know if I buy it from you all it will be thoroughly tested so I don't mind waiting.
Oof, that's rough, guys! But like my race mechanic friend says, if you're not breaking parts, you're not racing! I'm thinking it's time for aircraft grade bolts and lockwire.
“6 bolt incase we swap an engine”you’ve been battling converter bolts forever 😂 just do a 12 bolt already. Snap on makes an electronic ratchet that can break away 70ft lbs
Its the same as trying to convince me that your automatic trans is better then my manual trans i don't care that its faster in the end i just don't want to spend 5 to 10k to make a transmission do its job
No U I own a 99 6speed nv5600 vp44 2nd gen and a 03 commonrail with a 650hp auto trans Nobody’s trying to convince you with anything You’re just uneducated.
@@Izzabumminz uneducated in what it takes lots of money to build an auto trans I can get away with a single disc clutch or a dual disc in my 02 24v nv5600 or the 97 12v nv4500 I pull with or my 02 7.3 zf6 my only auto truck is my 08 6.4 but it's the drive it around truck
Time to learn how to safety-wire your fasteners in place. Pretty common in high-horsepower, high-rpm motor sports. Aviation stuff requires it for a reason. Won't keep bolts from shearing, but it'll definitely keep them from backing out - even if they lose their torque.
Hey boys - I understand you love the 6 for ease of pulling the trans... But why not use the 12 but only with 6 bolts? Put screw in pins in the other 6 holes -- this takes a little stress off the 6 bolts, and it lets you pull the pins and install the other 6 blots if you want...
I bet they won't stand near this truck again after what happened at the call out challenge 😂 it would of been straight carnage if it let go in that shop the way it did on the outdoor dyno
Red 271 Loctite is strong but try the 2047 Red loctite. Much stronger. 125lbs. more prevailing torque. I worked in a saw mill on our de barker machine. The carbide tool tips would eventually loosen up with 271 loctite. I had our purchasing agent talk to our supplier and he recommended this one. I NEVER had a tool arm tip come loose after using this. To take them off after they wore out I had to heat them up real hot with the torch and use a high quality 3/4" impact gun to take them off. Get some of this and you won't regret it. Look up the info on their properties chart. There isn't a much rougher environment than a de barker machine.
Which threadlocker are you guys using Red Loctite 271? 263? 2047? I ask because you can get Loctites industrial thread locker- it’s better than their automotive thread locker. I use Loctite 268 in the glue stick form. I’ve never had a fastener come undone from vibration or heat with it. But be warned- the bolt you’re trying to take out will probably break before the Loctite gives up 😂😂 Try SPS Fasteners, they’re a little spendy but worth it. Their sheer strength is like 45% better than grade 8 bolts.
Hahaha, good adventure you guys and congrats on the big numbers!! What about drilling and re-tapping those converter bolts a couple of sizes bigger !!!
It would work. One problem with 1" bolts you need 1" of thread engagement for full strength. Could solve with a spacer between the engine and transmission to make up the extra space needed. Adding "dogs" to the flex plate would transfer the shear load to the dog/bolt pedestal interface, and the bolts then only experience thrust loading. Set the dog/ pedestal like this // so that the flexplate will suck the TQC up tight if a bolt ever backs out agen.
Curious is you guys have considered the Mahle steel pistons for a build? They say the bore has to be exact for them, but they are said to be safe for high egt's for a considerable amount of time. That is, after you go to a 12 bolt converter. Appreciate all you guys do!
We have not tried the Mahle Monotherm steel pistons, but know several who have. Our problem is they require a 24v head and our big power mechanical injection engine setup runs a 12v War Head.
@@pddofficial I'll be the first to admit that the 6.0 has problems and that it still was quite the fluke what happened but I think it goes to show that they are as reliable as they are maintained.
Or could you make thin guage "straps that go from 1 bolt to another that go on before the bolt and then have tangs that fold up around the bolts, wouldn't that give them no chance to back out?
as if not have "bacon and eggs" for breakfast............the big performance battle of all time was between the RR Merlin V12 and the Jumo V12 in WW2..............they threw everything at making power in a time of war!! Starting at a measley 1000hp both engines climbed up towards 2500hp in just a matter of a few years!
![Chevrolet Truck Super Cruise hands-free driving [2024 Silverado 1500]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/l-j9SJRYty0/mqdefault.jpg)
That close in to dollar shave club ad was BRILLIANT!
Just a tip, if you want to avoid problems with the crank bolts next you need a thicker flexplate. I welded a double center in the puller because the thin flex plate wanted to knife shear the crank bolts once we went to 12bolt and quit breaking them. Those diamond impregnated washers are important too. I would have borrowed a mig welder and welded the TC to the flex plate thru the holes just to get it to pull off the dyno and get the win.
@
PowerDrivenDiesel FYI this gentleman is a machinist and does work on diesel pulling tractors. Might be a good person to take advice from imho.
All hail the 12v mechanical dinosaur named GODFATHER!!!!!
I'd be happy to find a 12v that just put out 600hp for my Tow rig. Probably be a bit more of a reliable workhorse than the worn-out 6.5 that's in there now.
4x4Scout way more powerful than that turd excuse of a Diesel engine too
Never in my life did I expect to see 2000 plus horsepower out of a Cummins 12V diesel. You guys are setting new records with your amazing efforts and always strive for more. Always waitin for your next video.
Love you guys and most of all your attitude and commitment to your fans. Way to go men.
I wonder if there is a way to dowel half the holes on a twelve bolt converter to make install faster by also lining it up going in?
Levi Marquez there is absolutely a way to do that. But...
@@ryanburbridge I just wonder if it would be cost effective
Levi Marquez it would definitely add some strength in shear but from the sound of it they have the torque converters they like and that’s that. But i agree... 6 bolts for clamping and six dowels for shear sounds cool.
@@ryanburbridge sounds pretty quick for install the dowels would be just like a lineup tool
Just run 6 in the 12 bolt. That way you can still push it, still sheer the bolts. But have 6 more holes to re bolt it back together and get it off the dyno!
I just wana say i love these videos i could sit and listen to you guys talk about trucks for hours always look forward to these keep it up! Oh ya keep killing it with the 12v you guys are legends.
Could you machine the torque converter cover to accept 3/4" bolt and mill larger holes in the billet flex plate? More surface area for loctite and stronger bolts. Win win.
Grade 8 hardware is for stock vehicles and this isn't the first time I've seen them fail on flywheels/flex plates.
Ahh music to my ears hahaha love the sound of any cummins engine when the turbos kick in and it just starts screaming❤
Have you considered using an aviation type safety wire & grade 8 drilled bolts or better yet some aviation type titanium drilled for safety wire bolts to prevent the converter bolts from backing out? You might have to have your converters made with a fine thread to use bolts like these. If you can break 12 of these, you have some serious engineering challenges ahead.
Nickel based alloys would be better, titanium is great for strength to weight ratio but not ultimate strength. Inconel alloy might be a better choice, the high temperature properties are not needed but the strength is amazing.
I think papadakis racing sells nice jigs for drilling holes in bolts to make your own safety wire holes
You guys are downright entertaining. The worst days make the best stories.
I love this channel, you guys do an awesome job whether you’re in first or last you show your success and failures. That takes a lot of guts.
We need more dyno videos. I can't get enough of that truck at full power
@@pddofficial I voted Josh into the diesel power challenge hope he makes it
Probably the best way to prevent bolts from shearing off -> bigger bolts or a custom flex plate and converter that are keyed together
matrixssc2 I’d be up for machining a custom flex plate for them out of Inconel or titanium. I’d do like you said and machine in some key ways and use titanium for the keys as well.
@@chloehennessey6813 ideally the flex plate and keys would be one piece. Think splines on the outside of the torque converter and inside the flexplate .. Also, those metal are excessive as most SFI flexplates are steel
matrixssc2 Thanks didn’t know that. I’m just basing what id machine off what metals we have here and what we normally machine for the aerospace industry. I just figured if the metals are good enough for say RocketDyne they should be okay in a truck?
You guys are awesome I really admire your positive attitude you always have a smile your channel is the very best on the internet
🙋♂️🇬🇧
I’d try to make some custom head studs into tq converter bolts
Idk if that would would since head studs are meant to take tensile force and not sheering force
Max ya it was just a thought need something stronger that can take a side load and hold the forces against the hardware
Need to safety wire them
Thanks for sharing the ups and downs of the event for the whole crew. High performance racing is full of all of it, glad to see you guys persevere through it. Enjoy seeing the firewire vs mechanical mafia show. Competition makes everyone better. Hope the fix for Frankenstein is an easy one. What do you plan to do about the converter bolts?
Congrats guys! Couldn’t happen to a better group of guy! That’s awesome!
@14:17
Greta: HOW DARE YOU
well Greta wouldn't dare to do that...
You do realize that soot reduces global warming? Or are you just shitting on a child for no reason?
@Jim C - Well Jim C, gotta tell you then - most Norwegians, Danish, Sweedish, Finnish people are making fun out of Greta T. So I guess I'm an idiot too then.
Wow! That was CRAZY!!! Did you see the one dude walking out kinda shaking his head a lil??.. his eyes were somewhere else..like his bell got rung, like when a boxer take an almost knock out punch. Great job guys!! But Tina got a little warm there. Lol..
Aerospace Grade fasteners and 0.032” lock-wiring I think would be essential with so much torque/horsepower. There’s a reason why Jet Engines have lock-wire everywhere. Great vids and channel!!! Love you guys!!! I love my 2005 5.9 Cummins!!!! Would love to visit your shop sometime!!! Billy from CT
If that P-PUMP breaks 3000hp it's gona break a lot of hearts, if I have said it once I have said it a hundered times 12 valve is hear for a good time not along time
Justin Price Most of the super stock diesel pulling trucks are 12 valves with sigma p pumps. They’re over 3100hp with twin and triple turbo setups
All I can say is that master shredder isnt gona be happy when it happens lol
Justin Price For sure🤘🏼
It will, 1300 cc’s will get 3000 wheel horsepower if not more
Awesome video guys. The part about the dollars shave club was hilarious
Yeah that was quality 😂
Some loctite tips are to clean bolts and holes with brake cleaner and then blow out with compressed air then use the loctite primer (7649) before you apply the loctite (262). If you have a blind hole put some in the hole and on the bolt otherwise what is on the bolt will actually get forced up the threads as you screw the bolt into the hole and push the air from the hole. Also have to remember heat will breakdown the loctite. I have sat through loctite training classes and learned a ton about what we had been doing wrong. If the bolt comes out without crusty loctite on it you didnt do something right is a good rule to go by. Hope some of that might help.
Big power numbers only happen on hub dyno's. Its the reason why the field has been stuck around 2.5k whp for the past 3 years. Get them on a hub dyno and watch records fall a lot more frequently.
Fun video to watch. Felt like I was there. The look on those guys face after the good dyno run inside was great! Keep it up mechanical mafia!
i friken love that 2030 pull. love the look on people’s faces and the crowds response!! imagine what it could have hit! can’t wait to see this years accomplishments.
Can’t wait to see what The Godfather can do, when it holds together........
Dont hold your breath lol been waiting years now
I love how everyone was flabbergasted on the second run🤣🤣🤣🤣
Sheared off the converter bolts. That’s nuts!!
No they're studs now... lol
Tyrell Lengerich LMAO!!!
that's bull you guys should have won. the truck still ran after the pull.
I mean heck if there gonna do you like that do a run with a direct drive top fuel drag transmission and straight up break that dyno
I'm thinkin I'd choose to put another 6 bolts in vs having to deal with constant bullshit. But I'm also a common rail guy... to each his own
Lol I was thinking the same thing.
Basic thing to do is shut it down let it cool add water pinch the cote tubes leaking leave the radiator cap loose so the radiator doesnt build pressure
Why not run 6 bolts and 6 studs
If you have to pull it remove the bolts and slide the converters over the studs
Maybe they will help spread the torque
You guys are truly gear heads
would look into aircraft grade bolts with safety wire. great to see the camaraderie and passion for pdd and cummins
"aircraft grade" is the same thing, just machined instead of cast. That wouldn't make a difference compared to other high quality hardware. And safety wire will help with backing, but not with shearing.
Hey, my wire harness got shredded by the fan too. Had no signals or horn.
I live in Colorado and drive up through vail monthly. I have a 2001 24 valve. Sure is a hill but these 2nd gens are unbelievable. Never towed more than 7k though
It sure is brutal!
that zoom in to the neckbeard mic scratch, god tier editing mate
Ha ha that was great
Could've just grabbed some 6011 and jumper cables and welded to the flexplate real fast to take the win.
Great idea, I would have used 7018.
@14:06 , y'all need to make that a poster or a calendar.
The godfather is the most badass rig in the world. Breaking every single part possible it makes so much power. Cant wait to see it break 3,000 on a dyno one day
That climb up Vail Pass and later up to the tunnel has claimed many vehicles, glad you stopped before you caused damage. Many aren't that smart, see a lot of carnage there 🙂
People try and knock ats all the time but honestly Clint under yalls truck helping says a lot about both of you guys companies.
Ive got several trucks with both of yalls products and have nothing but good to say about both of yalls companies!! Too many people just knock products they deliberately abuse and trash then blame everyone but themselves for the damage
Admittedly the ats square rear diff hurts performance and causes air bubbles in oil and causes it to lose it lubricating effect
That’s everyone’s aftermarket diff covers until banks, honestly though trucks ran fine for years with square covers
@@jbandit2044 I have a d3 rear diff cover for my d44 and its rounded and they stopped making those in the 90s. But I ain't arguing with you that almost all before banks has square designs
for the love of god someone move neck beards mic. all i hear the whole video is the mic dragging across his beard
🤣
Just a tid bit of knowledge loctite makes a primer for there thread locker and there is one step above grade 8 fasteners witch is L9
Those common fails got nothing on the ol 2nd gen!! Love the videos, one of these days PDD is going to take the 3k hp crown. Good luck this year I'm rooting for you guys!!
I lost it when the dollar shave guy said are the blades any good 🤣🤣🤣🤣 good one lol.
Go big or go home.
I've had my fan clutch air line blow on the climb to the tunnel before not fun. (Cat motor in my W9)
Cat motors pull well even if they arent running on all 6. I wish they still made truck engines.
Great to see another video. Absolutely great humor and content.
Always pre trip your ride boys. Happens to the best of us.
Upgrade the bolts to 1/2”. 2000+ hp on that dyno is insane!
Custom Cliffy loves all that you guys do to educate,,,,
Use AVV loctite we use those for setting a 1/2 inch stud but you gotta use primer T those aren’t going anywhere. I’ve had at least 500 ftlbs on it and it still didn’t spin.MAKE SURE YOUR HOLE AND BOLTS ARE CLEAN LIKE CLEAN CLEAN LIKE WITH ALCOHOL/409 And DONT TOUCH IT WITH YOUR FINGERS. Your oils will contaminate it.
this is going to be awesome when things come to gather and you get a full power run.
Why does the thumbnail say 4,000 HP?
Try some aircraft grade nas bolts. Way stronger than grade 8. We used them on fuel cars. Specialty fasteners or wicks aircraft can help you out
could the smoke in the air effect density? and rob power
Theoretically yes. But the odds of it actually losing power would be negligable
Adam Theede the smoke is excessive fuel. From my understanding, having smoke won’t rob power, but it’s wasted at that point. No smoke means a better/cleaner combustion
@@dburkh91 and where smoke is, there is not so much o2, you can see that in the faces of the "smoke"-crowd :) I think you will have bigger numbers outside.
It’s Egr for emission reasons
Probably the biggest part of the difference between the Superflow and Mustang numbers. The Superflow was outside and the engines aren't reburning exhaust. Huge difference. Engine dyno rooms using ambient air like an air exchange rate of 10 or more times per minute ( all the air in the cell is evacuated with fresh air 10+ times per minute).
Safety wire them bolts?
4,000hp on a diesel truck. Wow that’s gonna haul
Thank you guys for taking time to make videos
While I can see that it would be a gigantic PITA to have 12 converter bolts I don't see where you all have many other options if you want to guarantee that this won't continue to be an issue.
@@pddofficial I haven't dealt with that type of torque converter so I'm trying to figure out how you all used different bolts, every converter I've dealt with the studs are attached to the converter. Doesn't seem to be worth the risk to not run 8 or 10 bolts at least, that being said I'm not a gambler. I have a tendency to overbuild stuff, especially if my first iteration breaks. I'm pulling for you guys and still waiting for you all to start making 68RFE parts. I know if I buy it from you all it will be thoroughly tested so I don't mind waiting.
Oof, that's rough, guys! But like my race mechanic friend says, if you're not breaking parts, you're not racing!
I'm thinking it's time for aircraft grade bolts and lockwire.
“6 bolt incase we swap an engine”you’ve been battling converter bolts forever 😂 just do a 12 bolt already. Snap on makes an electronic ratchet that can break away 70ft lbs
Its the same as trying to convince me that your automatic trans is better then my manual trans i don't care that its faster in the end i just don't want to spend 5 to 10k to make a transmission do its job
No U
I own a 99 6speed nv5600 vp44 2nd gen
and a 03 commonrail with a 650hp auto trans
Nobody’s trying to convince you with anything
You’re just uneducated.
@@Izzabumminz uneducated in what it takes lots of money to build an auto trans I can get away with a single disc clutch or a dual disc in my 02 24v nv5600 or the 97 12v nv4500 I pull with or my 02 7.3 zf6 my only auto truck is my 08 6.4 but it's the drive it around truck
No U
Good for you bud
@@Izzabumminz thanks bud
Can you drill and tap the converter bolts for some 3/4" cut down ARP studs? (If this won't work please explain, thanks) 😀
I have had and got luck with some things with jb weld on bolts where locktite didn't work.
Time to learn how to safety-wire your fasteners in place. Pretty common in high-horsepower, high-rpm motor sports. Aviation stuff requires it for a reason. Won't keep bolts from shearing, but it'll definitely keep them from backing out - even if they lose their torque.
How practical would it be to safety-wire those bolts in to keep them from backing out? More trouble than it’s worth?
14:45 this dude is SHOOK
Hey boys - I understand you love the 6 for ease of pulling the trans...
But why not use the 12 but only with 6 bolts?
Put screw in pins in the other 6 holes -- this takes a little stress off the 6 bolts, and it lets you pull the pins and install the other 6 blots if you want...
I bet they won't stand near this truck again after what happened at the call out challenge 😂 it would of been straight carnage if it let go in that shop the way it did on the outdoor dyno
Just a thought: I think a pressure cooker can take out your kitchen with about half that PSI 😁
Soooo.... if you don't have the time to put in a few more bolts the first time, is it worth it to do it a second time?....?
Just handy when one thing gets missed and messes up hours of work and starts a snowball.
Red 271 Loctite is strong but try the 2047 Red loctite. Much stronger. 125lbs. more prevailing torque. I worked in a saw mill on our de barker machine. The carbide tool tips would eventually loosen up with 271 loctite. I had our purchasing agent talk to our supplier and he recommended this one. I NEVER had a tool arm tip come loose after using this. To take them off after they wore out I had to heat them up real hot with the torch and use a high quality 3/4" impact gun to take them off. Get some of this and you won't regret it. Look up the info on their properties chart. There isn't a much rougher environment than a de barker machine.
I'm not super up on all this but why couldn't you safety wire pairs of boots together? How could they back out then? It would break the wire?
I’m putting two BorgWarner S500s on a little 5,7l v8 full engine build when I start working again
Best diesel company out there right now
Omg that's sick!!!! Way to go guys, with all 3 wagons!
Thanks Boss!
@@CumminsWorks yessir, you guys have put in a lot of work for hitting those numbers
Wonder if some 12.9 socket-head cap screws would survive holding that convertor on there... or have IFG make some tool steel bolts for ya!
So happy to se tina back in action
Which threadlocker are you guys using Red Loctite 271? 263? 2047? I ask because you can get Loctites industrial thread locker- it’s better than their automotive thread locker.
I use Loctite 268 in the glue stick form.
I’ve never had a fastener come undone from vibration or heat with it. But be warned- the bolt you’re trying to take out will probably break before the Loctite gives up 😂😂 Try SPS Fasteners, they’re a little spendy but worth it.
Their sheer strength is like 45% better than grade 8 bolts.
Oh man, when she lit off boys!😱🔥😎👍🏻👌🏻 worth the wait.
Hahaha, good adventure you guys and congrats on the big numbers!! What about drilling and re-tapping those converter bolts a couple of sizes bigger !!!
He needs to use the shear pins out of my snowblower for his torque converter!
I think u should go to like 1" grade 12 bolts on the converter lol! Never again have to worry about it lol.
It would work.
One problem with 1" bolts you need 1" of thread engagement for full strength. Could solve with a spacer between the engine and transmission to make up the extra space needed.
Adding "dogs" to the flex plate would transfer the shear load to the dog/bolt pedestal interface, and the bolts then only experience thrust loading. Set the dog/ pedestal like this // so that the flexplate will suck the TQC up tight if a bolt ever backs out agen.
Curious is you guys have considered the Mahle steel pistons for a build? They say the bore has to be exact for them, but they are said to be safe for high egt's for a considerable amount of time. That is, after you go to a 12 bolt converter. Appreciate all you guys do!
We have not tried the Mahle Monotherm steel pistons, but know several who have. Our problem is they require a 24v head and our big power mechanical injection engine setup runs a 12v War Head.
8200 rpm!? 💀 that's wild
Lock wire beats red lock tight
Will is probably the best diesel mechanic in the country.
This is before Chris Patterson went ham in his 5.9 06 3500
Have you guys got a hub dyno on your shopping list?
That dollar shave club ad was fucking hilarious
Well... that seemed to get the crowd going!
So much for Cummins reliability. My 6.0 never let me down like that.
@@pddofficial I'll be the first to admit that the 6.0 has problems and that it still was quite the fluke what happened but I think it goes to show that they are as reliable as they are maintained.
What dyno did it kill and where is the 170psi of boost.
Or could you make thin guage "straps that go from 1 bolt to another that go on before the bolt and then have tangs that fold up around the bolts, wouldn't that give them no chance to back out?
Did you ever find a solution to the bolts breaking problem?
Did that guy really just try to wave away the smoke? Lol when the entire room is full lol
as if not have "bacon and eggs" for breakfast............the big performance battle of all time was between the RR Merlin V12 and the Jumo V12 in WW2..............they threw everything at making power in a time of war!! Starting at a measley 1000hp both engines climbed up towards 2500hp in just a matter of a few years!
You guys ever pull the 6.7 apart, to find out why it was missing during the dyno event?