Really good set of videos man, you are realistic of stuff that is already out there, and you focused on the specific things that are not, that people is interested on
nice sight, worth more than the bow and everything else attached to it probably. i'm shooting a bear authority and also upgraded to higher end sight that really deserves to be on a better bow. next bow will be an all black impulse elite 31 with neon green and black twist string. I would also recommend a whisker biscuit even on a flagship bow. hunting guides agree, total capture rest is quiet, fail proof and tough. hunting here on vancouver island is some of the most rugged country in the world. impenetrable temperate rain forest makes line of sight much shorter. luckily there are millions of sitka black tail deer here. (subspecies of mule maxing out 100 lbs).
I just bought this bow used. So how is the actual cam timing adjustment performed? There is very limited info on this on the internet or in the Manuel. Does it involve turning the string clockwise to shorten it? I am on "A" post as my draw is 30" Both timing marks are the same place just above the 2nd dot ( the un lettered one under the "A" dot, You suggested they should be in-between the 2? Thanks I'm so excited to try it. Lol same color too :) Great video. There is far too little of these archery how 2's
I do that limb bolt/string trick with the shorty arrow for alot of bows to set the center shot,, I hear alot of back and forth on it, and i get it,,, it depends on the bow...For me,, Its just a starting point tell i can shoot through paper... Lol I have used the stabilizer trick too,, and iv measured the shelf of the riser like this guy has done here... Either way,, i have gotten criticism for one method or the other lol..
Hi there AJA I hope your well buddy I really like all your videos there great mate. I know you have covered it before but if I may ask you?with all your obvious experience with archery which compound would be a good first bow to start getting involved with the sport I had an el cheapo and I won't even class it as a first bow until I get my second/acceptable bow if that makes sense? I like everything I've read and watched about Hoyt so it is what il be buying. Target first then hunting Samber and cheetal dear along with pigs in Australia. I've got $1000 ballpark to spend so any ideas on that question would be unreal. Thankyou again kind regards Chris
Chris Buckley That is one impressive budget! Wish I still had that kind of money for archery equipment! :-) Hoyt makes a lot of really good bow and you can get a good one fully loaded for probably a thousand or less. Now while I can't give you an exact bow to purchase as they're all going to feel different in your hand, I will say if you want a bow that is a crossover between Target and hunting you want a bow probably with a 32 inch axle to axle length or more. For a while I shot a alpha Max which was a 35 inch axle to axle and I shot it for 3D and hunting. Unfortunately you're going to have to probably shoot a few bows and really see which one you like it's hard to go wrong with a top name brand like Hoyt, Mathews, Elite, Etc
I enjoyed and learnt from your 3 videos, Keep up the good work :) I must ask as I can't find any information anywhere.... What are your thoughts on the accuracy potential of Hunting bows compared to Target Bows ? and High end ( price wise ) bows compared to Low end bows? I shoot a low end hunting bow mainly at the archery field on targets and I'm wondering if I'm at a big disadvantage or not when it comes to accuracy !
Joseph D I would say that if a high end archer swapped bows with you he'd still kick your butt (mine too!). You're gaining some things with shooting a higher end bow, but incredible lights-out accuracy is a shooter specific thing. :) Practice makes perfect!
good video . i had the same problem but i was wondering instead of twisting the cable (which cable to twist since there is no yoke), are there other alternatives? like screwing the limb bolt more on top etc? or is that a big no no? thanks
Yes, you can play with the limbs if you like, but no more than 1/2 a turn. Called tiller tuning. If 1/2 isn't enough, then the gap needs closed with the cables twisting.
Hey AJA, great video :)! I have a strange problem so wanted to ask for your opinion. I have the same bow and as far as I can tell the cams are tuned just fine, the arrow is perpendicular to the string, and still my arrows are always going up a lot if I increase the distance to the target - let's say from 5 to 15 yards. Do you have any idea why it could be? Also, I saw in your video that you are using the yokes to adjust the cams to be vertical when the bow is not pressed - are you just turning the yokes to achieve that?
Well arrows don't fly in a straight line. They have an arc. So from the start of the shot to a particular distance they're actually in an upwards trajectory. The faster your bow and lighter your arrow the less arc there is but it travels upwards over a greater distance than a heavier and slower arrow. It very well could be from 5-15 yards your arrow are still in their upwards arc of their trajectory, and if you shot 20-40 yards you'd seem them "come back down" in their arc. And yes, a simple press of the bow and a few yoke twists to shorten/lengthen the legs is all I'm doing there. Hope all of this helps!
@@averagejackarchery Thanks for the fast response ;)! Yes, I understand the arc, but in my case they are going up too fast - in 15 yards I have about a feet above the aiming point. And this was not the case before I changed my string and cables - so I assume that this is related somehow to the configuration. Do you have an idea what could be the reasoning? I will try to adjust and paper-tune today.
Just completed the adjustments as watched in the video, including cam timing and leaning. One of my cams was leaning quite a bit, but now everything is fine. Again, thanks a lot for the video and shared knowledge ;)
Can you adjust draw stops so they hit at the same time instead of putting twists in strings? I don’t have a press and was wondering if just moving the draw stops on my elite ritual would do the same thing
Sure you can! But it doesn't change the timing of the rotation of the cams. Just makes the draw stops hit at the same time, which doesn't actually solve the problems of your cams not being in sync in this instance.
I'm curious as to how important it is to have your rest perfectly parallel with your bow? if it's got a slight pitch forward or back will it effect the flight of the arrow? I'm using a whisker biscuit and it's slightly canted forward (the top is a little forward away from the bow). Will this cause much of an issue with flight?
Britton Mueller There's only one way to know and that's group tune or paper tune. Paper tuning would be my first route. If you're getting a tear that's SO bad or won't really adjust when you move your rest, then it might be a culprit. But if it's doing fine and grouping well I wouldn't panic! :)
Well, that's great news then! I've been having trouble with getting tight groups and it is probably due to me being a fairly novice shooter. I did paper tune it several weeks ago and found that it was off but, I did get it corrected. Just waiting on Apex to send my sight back so that I can shoot my new maxima red SD's. That also brings another question to mind. Will the diameter of the whisker biscuit come into play with the SD arrows being much smaller or will it still rest in the center even when shooting from a tree stand?
The Whisker Biscuit does have the option to swap out bristles to the smaller diameter hole, but I don't think that it's necessary. I have a good friend of mine who shoots Easton Aftermaths (.233 ID) through a standard, medium biscuit, and has no tuning issues. If you're having open groups it's most likely a shooter error than an equipment issue. Great questions!
I have the same bow, what sight would you recommend because the sight that came with it is trash. I had it sighted in and shot it the next day and I lost some arrows because they completely missed the target.
Jason Musick You have many options to choose from! Many reputable brands. For entry sights I like truglo and Trophy ridge. My last bow had a 4-pin trophy ridge joker and it worked super well!
Really good set of videos man, you are realistic of stuff that is already out there, and you focused on the specific things that are not, that people is interested on
Very well explained and detailed jack ,love the vids keep them coming gd luck on this yrs hunts
nice sight, worth more than the bow and everything else attached to it probably. i'm shooting a bear authority and also upgraded to higher end sight that really deserves to be on a better bow. next bow will be an all black impulse elite 31 with neon green and black twist string. I would also recommend a whisker biscuit even on a flagship bow. hunting guides agree, total capture rest is quiet, fail proof and tough. hunting here on vancouver island is some of the most rugged country in the world. impenetrable temperate rain forest makes line of sight much shorter. luckily there are millions of sitka black tail deer here. (subspecies of mule maxing out 100 lbs).
Thankyou very much AJA
Keep up all your good work your a great help and inspiration for us newcomers to the world of archery.
Much appreciated
Hoyt bear encounter single cam timing issues / setting?. Do you have a video similar to that?
I just bought this bow used. So how is the actual cam timing adjustment performed? There is very limited info on this on the internet or in the Manuel. Does it involve turning the string clockwise to shorten it? I am on "A" post as my draw is 30" Both timing marks are the same place just above the 2nd dot ( the un lettered one under the "A" dot, You suggested they should be in-between the 2? Thanks I'm so excited to try it. Lol same color too :) Great video. There is far too little of these archery how 2's
I do that limb bolt/string trick with the shorty arrow for alot of bows to set the center shot,, I hear alot of back and forth on it, and i get it,,, it depends on the bow...For me,, Its just a starting point tell i can shoot through paper... Lol I have used the stabilizer trick too,, and iv measured the shelf of the riser like this guy has done here... Either way,, i have gotten criticism for one method or the other lol..
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Hi there AJA
I hope your well buddy
I really like all your videos there great mate.
I know you have covered it before but if I may ask you?with all your obvious experience with archery which compound would be a good first bow to start getting involved with the sport
I had an el cheapo and I won't even class it as a first bow until I get my second/acceptable bow if that makes sense?
I like everything I've read and watched about Hoyt so it is what il be buying.
Target first then hunting Samber and cheetal dear along with pigs in Australia.
I've got $1000 ballpark to spend so any ideas on that question would be unreal.
Thankyou again kind regards Chris
Chris Buckley That is one impressive budget! Wish I still had that kind of money for archery equipment! :-) Hoyt makes a lot of really good bow and you can get a good one fully loaded for probably a thousand or less. Now while I can't give you an exact bow to purchase as they're all going to feel different in your hand, I will say if you want a bow that is a crossover between Target and hunting you want a bow probably with a 32 inch axle to axle length or more. For a while I shot a alpha Max which was a 35 inch axle to axle and I shot it for 3D and hunting. Unfortunately you're going to have to probably shoot a few bows and really see which one you like it's hard to go wrong with a top name brand like Hoyt, Mathews, Elite, Etc
I enjoyed and learnt from your 3 videos, Keep up the good work :)
I must ask as I can't find any information anywhere.... What are your thoughts on the accuracy potential of Hunting bows compared to Target Bows ? and High end ( price wise ) bows compared to Low end bows? I shoot a low end hunting bow mainly at the archery field on targets and I'm wondering if I'm at a big disadvantage or not when it comes to accuracy !
Joseph D I would say that if a high end archer swapped bows with you he'd still kick your butt (mine too!). You're gaining some things with shooting a higher end bow, but incredible lights-out accuracy is a shooter specific thing. :) Practice makes perfect!
good video . i had the same problem but i was wondering instead of twisting the cable (which cable to twist since there is no yoke), are there other alternatives? like screwing the limb bolt more on top etc? or is that a big no no? thanks
Yes, you can play with the limbs if you like, but no more than 1/2 a turn. Called tiller tuning. If 1/2 isn't enough, then the gap needs closed with the cables twisting.
@@averagejackarchery thanks a lot i will keep that in mind
What is the length of your arrow shafts versus your draw length?
Hey AJA, great video :)! I have a strange problem so wanted to ask for your opinion. I have the same bow and as far as I can tell the cams are tuned just fine, the arrow is perpendicular to the string, and still my arrows are always going up a lot if I increase the distance to the target - let's say from 5 to 15 yards. Do you have any idea why it could be?
Also, I saw in your video that you are using the yokes to adjust the cams to be vertical when the bow is not pressed - are you just turning the yokes to achieve that?
Well arrows don't fly in a straight line. They have an arc. So from the start of the shot to a particular distance they're actually in an upwards trajectory. The faster your bow and lighter your arrow the less arc there is but it travels upwards over a greater distance than a heavier and slower arrow. It very well could be from 5-15 yards your arrow are still in their upwards arc of their trajectory, and if you shot 20-40 yards you'd seem them "come back down" in their arc.
And yes, a simple press of the bow and a few yoke twists to shorten/lengthen the legs is all I'm doing there. Hope all of this helps!
@@averagejackarchery Thanks for the fast response ;)! Yes, I understand the arc, but in my case they are going up too fast - in 15 yards I have about a feet above the aiming point. And this was not the case before I changed my string and cables - so I assume that this is related somehow to the configuration. Do you have an idea what could be the reasoning? I will try to adjust and paper-tune today.
Just completed the adjustments as watched in the video, including cam timing and leaning. One of my cams was leaning quite a bit, but now everything is fine. Again, thanks a lot for the video and shared knowledge ;)
Could you please tell me how can get the perfect weight at the bow i got a used bow and I don't l ow how to tune it for a heavier or a lighter weight
Can you adjust draw stops so they hit at the same time instead of putting twists in strings? I don’t have a press and was wondering if just moving the draw stops on my elite ritual would do the same thing
Sure you can! But it doesn't change the timing of the rotation of the cams. Just makes the draw stops hit at the same time, which doesn't actually solve the problems of your cams not being in sync in this instance.
Average Jack Archery thanks for the reply. I guess I’ll have to do it the right way and take it to the pro shop. Or buy a bow press!
I'm curious as to how important it is to have your rest perfectly parallel with your bow? if it's got a slight pitch forward or back will it effect the flight of the arrow? I'm using a whisker biscuit and it's slightly canted forward (the top is a little forward away from the bow). Will this cause much of an issue with flight?
Britton Mueller There's only one way to know and that's group tune or paper tune. Paper tuning would be my first route. If you're getting a tear that's SO bad or won't really adjust when you move your rest, then it might be a culprit. But if it's doing fine and grouping well I wouldn't panic! :)
Well, that's great news then! I've been having trouble with getting tight groups and it is probably due to me being a fairly novice shooter. I did paper tune it several weeks ago and found that it was off but, I did get it corrected. Just waiting on Apex to send my sight back so that I can shoot my new maxima red SD's. That also brings another question to mind. Will the diameter of the whisker biscuit come into play with the SD arrows being much smaller or will it still rest in the center even when shooting from a tree stand?
The Whisker Biscuit does have the option to swap out bristles to the smaller diameter hole, but I don't think that it's necessary. I have a good friend of mine who shoots Easton Aftermaths (.233 ID) through a standard, medium biscuit, and has no tuning issues. If you're having open groups it's most likely a shooter error than an equipment issue. Great questions!
I have the same bow, what sight would you recommend because the sight that came with it is trash. I had it sighted in and shot it the next day and I lost some arrows because they completely missed the target.
Jason Musick You have many options to choose from! Many reputable brands. For entry sights I like truglo and Trophy ridge. My last bow had a 4-pin trophy ridge joker and it worked super well!
Average Jack Archery I was thinking about purchasing the joker thanks man
Jason Musick My pleasure!
What is the length of your arrow shafts versus your draw length?
What is the length of your arrow shafts versus your draw length?
I like my arrows 1" longer than my draw length.
What is the length of your arrow shafts versus your draw length?
I like 1 inch over so I do not go it the riser with broad heads