Stainless Steel Genset Waterpipes - Project Brupeg Ep. 357
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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This is our last week with Birk and we are racing to get him out to the Great Barrier Reef before his visa runs out and he heads off for another leg of his journey.
That said, it has to be built Brupeg style; over engineered, stainless, indestructable (and non-kickable).
If we don't get the genset working before he goes we wll make sure he gets there.
Thanks for watching and all your support!
Jess, Dame, Birk and Babycat
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Thanks for watching and for your support!
Believe me… I fully understand the shipyard rush. I spent a year doing it whilst being $2 Mil in debt and a boat that hasn’t fished in a year.
With that said… ALWAYS pressure test before you put stuff in service. You’ve wrapped the coolant pipes and buried all of the weld joints. I understand you’ve got a deadline; but fixing it the right way if it doesn’t hold pressure will now take twice as long.
By sanding down your weld joints, you’ve removed a large portion of your structural strength.
You may have issues with that engine running too cold with such large keel coolers. Easy to solve with a restriction plate in the suction / discharge side of your keel cooler piping. I’d venture a guess that the original coolant circuit had less than 5 gals of coolant.
I don’t quite understand the routing of your header tank? With the way you have it routed, it won’t allow for any contraction or expansion of your coolant. Normally, the keel cooler lines are routed to the inlet / discharge of the water pump, then the header tank is hung above the engine, and then routed to the block with a small 3/8” line. I’d be wary of pressurizing your coolant system much above 5 PSI. Without knowing the internal condition of your mild steel keel cooler piping, you could be opening Pandora’s box by popping a seam below the waterline. Make damn sure there’s shielding / wrap on that genset’s exhaust manifold / turbo. It was setup for air cooled and will be a big heat generator / fire hazard with no shielding.
I know it sounds harsh… but slow your roll a bit instead of taking one step forward and two steps back by doing stuff twice.
3:25 if I understand Kiwi slang correctly, the American translation would be dingleberries.
the dry fitting of the pipes always one of the enjoyable parts of plumbing i like making all the puzzle parts work to make a clean tidy looking build, there was nothing worse back in the day than opening a cupboard to see a rats nest of pipes running all over and under and making no sense at all it takes just as much time to make a mess as it does to do a tidy job and take some pride in what you do, the cooling pipes turned out very nice indeed great job as usual Dame stay safe everyone
I might be verry tired and missed it, but did you flare the tubes to be fitted to the hoses? or is there not going to be that much hot water pressure?
Won’t be that much pressure and the hose sticks in about 100mm (4”) on the silicon
00:10 - Is that a fuzzy microphone, or has Dame got a very, very, VERY hairy chest?🤭
How about an update on some of the bigger picture stuff, please? You found yourselves a mooring that allows you to work on the boat? What's the state of the new electrical system. Did you ever figure it out how the old one lost all that smoke? What's the plan to get some cruising done? Do you have a rough timeline? Milestone goals?
Frankly, the not much besides cutting-grinding-welding and banter episodes are becoming quite tedious and especially so without much context of the bigger picture, in my opinion.
Just my thoughts. Thanks.
Wants to send exhaust off to be made.
Proceeds to make nicer exhaust than if it were sent off.
Love your fab work Dame.
Love your paint work Jess. Hope you’re feeling well.
Thanks very much!
Why not haul out and rent a place to stay for a month and take everything out of the boat and finish it in one go. Instead of trying to work around that mess everywhere?
Because Brupeg is built and run on a shoestring supported by our Patreons and UA-cam advertising only. What you’ve suggested isn’t possible within that small budget. So we fine a way even if it means zero free space
Hi Dame, Just had a thought that might be of benefit, but by no means an urgent modification if you were to go for it.
With your coolant pipes, and I don’t remember if you installed it for the main engine, but something that might make life easier later on for planned maintenance on the coolant system.
On the lowest sensible point of the coolant pipework between the engines and the hull cooling, perhaps install an outlet with a removable plugged valve to which you can connect a hose and pump. This would allow for the draining of the coolant from the Main Engine or gen set for water pump, cylinder head etc maintenance without dumping that coolant into the bilge. By no means necessary, but definitely beneficial, particularly if you don’t want to/cant replace the coolant at that time.
Looks good Dane. The sugar may need a little weld butter. It will be OK. Great job.
I use to weld stick and mig for most of my welding career, with one steady wrap, turn the pipe over and continue welding, you shouldn't have to tack it and stack it, to weld pipe. That makes your welds look way too bulky, Try doing a short U pattern as you form your bead, if you know what i mean.
I remember being fascinated by a TV series called Macgyver, watching you make these things is like having the show all over again.
Brackets! Echos of Project Binky. Richard would be proud of you.
We had some kiwi friends who were living here in Seattle, and at that time there used to be a very popular burger restaurant in the downtown area called "Dag's". After all this time, I still vividly remember the look on my kiwi friend's face when we pulled into the Dag's parking lot and he saw that name on the sign... After he finished laughing hysterically for 5 minutes, he educated me on the NZ meaning of the word....
Did it live up to the name?
@@ProjectBrupeg Well, considering that the definition my friend gave me was "those little shitty bits hanging on the back end of a sheep"...... It was moderately better than that
Worth noting that when you're tacking up pipes using a piece of angle iron as a jig, if the two pieces of pipe don't have perfectly square ends, put your two tacks while it's clamped, let them cool, then rotate the pipe 90 degrees reclamp it, then do two more tacks and let them cool. the jig will help keep the tacks from pulling the part out of square when you go to weld it up. Obviously you could just do small stitches and spread the heat around when you weld it out, but I think 4 tacks in the jig is a little quicker.
So where is the filler cap?
Was it not on top of the tank?
That angle bracket will hot . But cut a pipe length in half to make a stand-off.
The engine room is really going to look great.
he said the cap is on order....
Gidday Bruce! Some fancy kitting on that genset coolant plumbing. But looking great. Keeping it tidy and looking good will help spot any troubles you might have later on down the track. A quick thought though, in your coolant circuit, you have mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum pump housing on the motor, maybe brass in the thermostat. Lots of dissimilar metals. Electrolysis? Do you reckon you might need some type of anodes in the circuit?
Hi Tony, Normal radiators are a mix of brass, copper and alloy. Engine block is cast iron and the housings are generally alloy. So adding a few stainless pipes where the alloy/brass/copper radiator was won’t really affect anything and the mild steel pipes will be fine as soon as we add the anti corrosive coolant. Anodes are not really needed (something we asked/research and solved when we built the main engine cooling pipes).
Well done, thanks for the extra music and assembly hacks. Does the diagonal brace pipe need to be wrapped or it does not get hot enough by conduction and/or convection?
Honestly don’t know how hot that will get. It’s something we can wrap pretty easy after the fact if temp does start to be an issue
I busy with my Bruce Robers piping do use stainless fir you diesel pipes as well what episode have you?done your diesel pipes
We have rubber fuel hose for our diesel lines. It’s just easier and faster to install. We will be making stainless fuel pipes for the vege oil system when we build it but that’s a year away at this stage
Dame, it might be a disproportionately long bit of fabrication for you, but we live for watching you do this kind of thing. Your ingenuity, resourcefulness, and skills are fantastic! Well done you, lad...
And it's 26 hours that last the life of Brupeg
I appreciate that!
Cool, Brupeg now got a roll cage! :0)
Lovin every episode, and wishing you luck getting steaming in time!
Great Job Dame, what’s happening to the power supply and new batteries? It seems to be taking longer than expected?
We have the parts on the boat (finally). DC sparkie spent the day onboard yesterday and now we have a STACK of homework to do prior to his next visit. Videos out soon on this
@@ProjectBrupeg yay 👍 🪫🔌💡🔋
I wonder will the gen set engine be able to run hot enough directly hooked up to the keel cooling?
Thermostat takes care of that. It just regulates as much or as little as needed to get the right temperature happening
isn't the bracing pipe gonna get hot too...i.e. conduction? I'm also surp[rised you put the lagging tape on before pressure testing obviously you have a lot of confidence in your welding now dame?
Have you thought of a purge valve on the top of your coolant tank
Wrapping the heat protection tape reminded me of my time as a cyclist, wrapping handlebars once a year or so!
Have you guys been able to find an electrician that’s gonna be able to do everything? I don’t know if I missed it on a video or not
Short answer yes, but there is quite a lot of logistics involved in bringing it all together
seems a bit over complicated
Ahhh Brupeg?
Wow you’ve gotten to the point with your learning and new found skills that we are running out of stuff to nit pick about. Keep it up and we’ll keep watching you all grow.
I reckon the header tank could use a bit of triangulation to the pipe. It's sitting up there, going to be half full of water so able to slosh around and may over time fall off - probably in a force 10 gale, with flat batteries would be my guess.
Hope Burt isn't subleased as a deck y . Always takes longer when you have to make things from scratch.
Don't you need an air vent at the top of that tank??
He is putting a filler cap up there but it is on order...
Just thinking about the stability of the header tank as it looks like it may still move a bit (especially with the weight of the coolant). Would it be feasible to include a couple ot flat bar stainless brackets running from either end of the tank up to the ceiling
Sure it took a long time, but the result is worth it :)
Maybe some more bracketry bolting on to the studs (the ones next to the welded engine mount) that can serve for a pully cover and extra mounts for the cooling pipes. Love your work and humour keep it coming.
Fill it with water and freeze it and it won’t crinkle when you bend it
Did someone say triangulate😂😂
Brilliant. Great to see and learn the TIG (and MIG) tricks, too.
Would mounting the header tank to the genset with some brackets and isolation mounts, then attach the tube via a silicone hose (instead of being welded) be a possible solution?
Yes potentially. If it becomes a problem we’ll change it over
Looking great
Awesome work you two!
Good progress🎉
Love it 😻
😊😊😊
BTW, "Ghost Riders in the Sky" came out in 1948 and THAT was not it that you played...not even close.
UA-cam would slap us if we used the real thing
@@ProjectBrupeg Oh I'm sure they would -- its just that you announced it as Ghost Riders in the Sky ...
Oh no, I definitely listened to that song. We’re just not allowed to let anyone else listen to it…
@@ProjectBrupeg Rats. I definitely would have preferred it!🤣🤣
2:04 I see what you did there... Clever!
Completely unintentional but it just worked
Good day Damien
as a welder its shocking your pipe welding . It's a bit hot But I'm not going to criticises I'm going to try and give you basic pointers. 😂 tig welding is the way when you get the Molton pool it's called the dancing lady. So the pool will look like it's Pirowetting from memory I think it will be around 50 amp's. My lecturers had said your weld should look the same as the Material your welding silver blues bronzes. For stainless steel. If you put your bread in the toaster and it comes black it's because its to hot and you've burnt it it's the same as when your welding. Aluminium the same silver. Nice and slow will give you the best results no grinding is required. 😃
Mild steel that's another story ☹️. I hope you have a go tig is slow 🐌 and enjoy it . ❤🏴🏴🥂👍🍺
The issue I was having was the end plates were 3mm and the tube was 1.2mm and the fit up was rubbish so I was filling gaps all the way round. Hence the excessive heat. Also does purging lower the temp as part of the protection process on the inside of the pipe? Thanks for the help and feedback
Normally you would only backperge for food or fuel as you want a clean line so nothing will pick up on it and is flat and resistant to friction. It's all in the pre preparation work take your time cut your material square small weld prep. And the right welding amp's, also the right travel speed. Clear ceramic can help so you can see what your doing. Its not turn every thing up and go fast ,this is not mig welding this professional tig welding. If you have a million amp's and packperge it's will have the same visual view burnt black stainless steel ☹️🥂🏴
Your pipes look like a work of art.
Folks should be thankful you’re willing to take the “scenic” routes.
Its called a winnet where Im from. Great insult too. You daft winnet. 🤣🤣
Great update 2x👍
Call a racecar shop we like mandrel bends.
Thanks for the wet the fiber glass wrap tip when doing the pipes. Probably damp down fiberglass dust too