Nice overview Peter. I use the same process for milling in my shop but usually allow several days for internal stresses to relax, it is amazing how much some wood can change even after a small amount of milling. When I need to rip several pieces, I usually square two edges at the jointer after surfacing the face which will save trips to the jointer/planer. Steve
Hi Steve, Yes, I think that I mentioned waiting a few days unless that went out on the cutting room floor. You are right, of course, about doing two edges and working inwards. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter - having just acquired an amount of rough sawn quarter sawn oak I thought I'd reacquaint myself with this video before tackling the dimensioning. Very glad I did, not least for the tip on letting the wood rest for a day or so to de-stress before the final dimensioning. Many thanks!
Hi Darrel, There are potentially a lot of stresses in timber before you start working it. As each layer is removed or slice taken away, these stresses cause movement but it can be quite slow. Giving it a day or more to settle down is always a good idea. Cheers. Peter
Very informative video. I appreciate the thoroughness with which you explained the process of preparing lumber. I really like your Jet combo planer/jointer and the fact that it only occupies one footprint.
Thank you for this excellent instructional video - it sums up what took me three or four years to learn through trial and error. Question: I have been told that gloves can be dangerous when operating machinery as they can get hung up on the wood and pull one’s hand into the machine, but you wear them frequently. A different view from the far side of the pond?
Yes, gloves can be awkward and it has to be a personal choice. For me, when handling rough sawn wood, I wish to avoid splinters but I take great care. Modern work gloves fit very well and have a rubberized palms so there is less risk of material catching on the wood. Cheers. Peter
I FOUND THIS VIDEO VERY INFORMATIVE ESPECIALLY HOW YOU GLEANED AS MUCH TIMBER AS YOU COULD OUT OF A VERY TWISTED LONG LENGTH OF TIMBER AND THE CORRECT WAY OF CUTTING IT.I TOO HAVE A JET PLANER BUT MY CUTTER GUARD IS NOT SQUARE TO THE FENCE .IS THERE A WAY OF CORRECTING THIS?
Hi Neill, I am not sure how you would correct the off square cutter guard. Is it sage to use or are the blades exposed ? If you are in any doubt then talk to your dealer or the person that you bought the machine from. Peter
Also curious, I saw you had the Axminster planer thicknesser and the video where Axmister upgraded your planer thicknesser, if you had your choice again would you go with the Axminster one with the spiral cutter block or stay with your Jet with the three knife cutter block? I ask as I'm trying to decide what machine to buy, I'm about done with thicknesser sleds...
If I had the money I would definitely go for a spiral cutter block. Over time the running costs are so much lower. It costs me about £30 to sharpen my planer knives and it only takes one "ding" to force the issue. With the multi facet spiral block cutters it takes a whole lot of dings before there is a problem Peter
Please don't apologize and think this may have been boring. Believe it or not for me this was very exciting and just what the doctor ordered! Thank you.
Peter, great video. It's interesting to see you use a band saw for your rip cuts. Would you say, for the way you work, is it a replacement for a tablesaw?
Hi Adam, Yes. I use the bandsaw for most of my resawing and I can even produce 2 mm thick veneers if needed. I do have a small table saw which is used mainly for ripping thin and narrow stock or for rebating. Peter
Your experience shows when you do an instructional video like this . Btw I took your advice about leaving the ts55 in the cms table and getting the ts 55r for use outside the cms - very good value at the moment , I paid just less than 300 for ts55r in sustainer and z48 blade all new from the blue logo shop with an f. That figure was nett of vat and no guide rails included. You are so good to get back to people with sound woodworking advice. Many thanks
Probably the most important stage of any woodworking project...... when I first watched this video I thought I couldn’t justify the expense of a planer / jointer.... but in the six months I have owned one I would honestly say that it has payed for itself via the saving buying sawn over PAR timber. Thanks for all your work, it makes me want to be a better craftsman.
Hi Peter, many thanks again for yet another great video. I've just restored my old Axminster AW108PT, which was rusting away in storage for 4 years. I can't get the tables co-planar for love nor money, but as you point out, a little downward pressure on the outfeed table seems to get it sufficiently flat as long as the blades are aligned properly with the outfeed table. A slight aside - are you using a 4TPI blade to cut your oak on the bandsaw? Thanks again, Alan.
Hi Alan, Do persevere with the planer to try and get it set up correctly. Would Axminster Tech Support be able to help? Yes, the blade in the bandsaw is the 4 TPI one sold by Axminster under the Axcaliber label. Many thanks for the kind words. Peter
Great video, Peter. I wish I had that Jet machine of yours, I bought a Robland PT machine 18 months ago and, whilst it's extremely competent and accurate, I prefer the way Jet have engineered the jointing surfaces to lift up as one in order to convert to the thicknessing operation. My Robland is the other design where the surfaces swing out individually, meaning the fence has to be removed. This is really annoying if you forget to plane the edge face on 12 boards before thicknessing, like I did yesterday... D'oh!
Hi Matt, I had wanted to buy the Jet machine for a long time and am so pleased to have it now. It really is very useful to be able to change from thicknessing to planing in a matter of a couple of seconds. Most professionals will have separate machines but I cannot justify the cost nor do I have the space. Cheers. Peter
Thanks, Peter, it is not always clear how it *should* be done. I haven't tinkered with much real wood other than pine but if I were to go into hardwoods I would rather go in with the knowledge you've shared here :)
Thank you so much, Peter for this video. I found it very helpful and far from boring. I need to buy a planer/jointer soon so I won't need to do much research as I shall be aiming for the Jet model similar to the one you have. Best.... Alan.
Hi Alan, I understand that Axminster have no Jet planer thicknessers on the web site I am not sure if this is a temporary thing or what. If you go for another make or model do look carefully at the ease of changing from planing to thicknessing - it is something that I really like with my Jet machine. Cheers. Peter
Many thanks, Peter. I've just visited the Axminster website and noted there were no Jet planers/thicknessers. It seems odd. I've been buying from Axminster for about 10 years so I must give them a ring. Many thanks, Alan.
Thanks Peter, question for you though... Say you need to plane 3m long boards for a 12 seater dinning table, oak, say finished thickness 50mm thick 230/305mm wide boards, how would you tackle that??
The same way but with a little more care. Once the table tope is glued up then some careful hand planning may be necessary and sanding of course. Peter
Hello Peter. Not boring at all! I'm an experienced joiner and always enjoy your productions. This is an excellent, clear and informative introduction to processing sawn timber to anyone starting out or with a general interest in joinery works. Keep up the good work.
Hi John, I really appreciate that especially from a professional like yourself. I used to teach woodwork in my spare time but not the machinery side. Cheers. Peter
There are many ways to tackle this without a planer. You can use a hand plane but perfection takes a lot of practice. You can use a jig with a router to flatten one side of a board. You can take the piece to a lumber yard and they will do it for you for a small fee. Finally, you can buy the timber ready planed to the thickness that you require. Peter
Thanks Peter, great video buddy. All my work is done with hand tools, preparation of stock is one of the parts I love the most. I would use a thickness planer if I had one for the bulk of the work, then Finnish with hand planes
The bandsaw makes light work of ripping and, as long as you have a planer-thicknesser, the results can be cleaned up very quickly. With my Axminster bandsaw I can do some very thin cuts on quite thick stock. Peter
Nice video. I wish I had a bandsaw, planer and thicknesser. It seems to be enough work as it is. I'm getting by with a tracksaw, router table and hand plane. But it is not really an enjoyable process. I am surprised you are brave enough to wear gloves in a youtube video with power tools =) I understand completely and feel like the best way to stay safe is to not have an incident in the first place. Being comfortable and getting good grip on the workpiece could very well be the safest way to go.
The risk is splinters which can cause an involuntary recoil action. The gloves have a rubbery coating on the touch surfaces which really does make wood handling much easier. Also, I make the point and demonstrate the use of push sticks and other safety aids. The bottom line is that people make their own choices and are responsible for working out the safest method of working that suits them. Cheers. Peter
The most important machines a person can own for wood working is a thicknesser and surface planer (jointer). Getting wood square is the most important part of woodworking. Now you can do it by hand if you want to.
I had always wanted the Jet. I bought the AW106 as the next best thing that I could afford. I made a video about it which I told Axminster about once it was up on UA-cam. I had already tried to get the Jet by asking for the best discount that they could provide but that was still beyond my means. After seeing the AW106 video Axminster then allowed me to trade up to the Jet with enough trade discount that made the deal possible for me. Peter
Hi Peter, I watched this rather late! What is the thinnest plank you can plane without getting snipe when you pause in passing it over the cutter head? If this can't be avoided how thin can you pass it through the thicknesser to remove the snipe on the face? Mike
Hi Mike, When passing wood over the cutter in a planing operation it depends on the stiffness of the wood so (I am guessing) about 10 mm for soft wood and 8 mm for hard wood. The removal of snipe requires a flat underside of the wood being thicknessed. It will be minimum thicknessing capability plus about 2 mm. You should not be getting snipe - check your method, not the machine. I have made a jig for thicknessing very thin stock - down to about 2.5 mm which you will see in action in my bookend video. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks Peter. I am working on my technique and assume the snipe on thin material must be caused by downward pressure on the infeed side or, perhaps, having the outfeed table set a little to low. I am going to try to push more forward and less downwards on the infeed side and see if that helps. As the snipe is very short, about 10mm or less, I don't think it will affect the top surface when thicknessing so that this should be flat and act as a true index when the piece is turned over to remove the snipe with a final pass. Using your jig should help here as well.
Thank you Peter. I have recently started dimensioning my own stock and this video has been very enlightening. I can now move forward and make less mistakes.
Hi Zac, It is the Jet JPT 260 which I bought from Axminster ages ago. It works brilliantly and is very easy to swap from thicknessing to planing. Peter
Thanks, Peter. Enjoyable to watch the process of selection, layout, jointing, cutting (we call it "harvesting" parts in the US). It determines the success of your project, so anything but boring. And I love white oak! Your JET combo machine looks exactly like mine, model JJP-12HH, except that yours has the red (emergency stop?) button. Must be an extra safety requirement of the UK or EU model? For space reasons, and to get a 12 inch jointer, I got rid of my separate planer and jointer. An extra benefit is the much lower noise level with the helical head. Cheers!
Hi Peter. I have the same Jet PT-310 as yours (although I think yours is the 260). I'm having a little trouble, in that the machine judders when I feed stock into the thicknesser. Do you have any idea as to what's causing this? Yours seemed so smooth when you fed in the stock on the video. Also, when I'm planing on the jointer, the machine gets very loud towards the end of the cut, as if it's struggling. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
I am afraid that I have no idea what could be wrong. It sounds as though the motor or the drive mechanism may be struggling. Have you tried reducing the amount that you take off each time? I routinely only take 1 mm off at a time with hardwood boards more than 100 mm wide. If the wood is narrower I might take 1.5 mm off with each pass. Other than that I am unable to help. Maybe if you took the inspection covers off and had a look inside (with the power disconnected) you might see something obvious. Good luck. Peter
Sorry if this has already been asked.. where do you find it best to buy rough sawn timber? I'm from Lancashire myself but any national big name firms that may be near by? Chadwicks for example? Or would you suggest smaller places? Also is there a general price guide to make sure you're not been taken for a ride if there isn't too much choice? Thanks in advance
Hi Dan, This is tricky as the only really large company that I know are Timbmet. There is a company in the South that deliver nationwide, Timbersource, but I am not sure if they could match a local supplier for sawn stock. Good luck. Peter
Hello Peter, absolutely not boring at all. Great joy to see you not using a table saw and getting all your wood pieces precise and ready for further processing & assembly. Like 235 from me.
Hello, I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason for it so why when working with the board did you square off one edge only? I can follow the logic of ripping it in half to minimise the cupping at its inherent wastage if you'd been able to plane it in one piece, Given that each piece would yield two pieces with another squaring off process in between, would it have been possible to square of both edges on the planer, pass one edge through the bandsaw to obtain the first piece, then turn it round to get the second piece from the other sruared edge? Or am I missing something?
When preparing timber it is important to have a face side and a face edge which are square to each other. From then on you have a pair of reference surfaces for all future operations. If the opposing edge were squared at the same time there is no guarantee that it will be parallel to the first face edge. You can use the face edge as the reference when ripping in a table saw etc. After that you will have a pair of parallel edges. Peter
I apoligise if I offended you, that was not my intention. My inention was to cause debate and try to change mindset. Hopfully help you reach a wider audience.
I am not offended at all and appreciate where you are coming from. I get about 140,000 views a month and have been invited to Google HQ in the UK on several occasions as my audience retention figures are quite good for this sector. I am doing my best to reach out to as many groups of people that I can. Peter
Hi Paul, The bandsaw can cut much thicker wood and is very safe ad easy to use. It takes up less room than a big table saw and it is cheaper to run. After cutting with the bandsaw I put my wood through the planer which you would probably have to do with a table saw anyway. Peter
I have made over 250 videos. In the last year only 10 have been about Festool kit. I am trying to help other people, encourage them to make things or buy the best tools that they can afford. I answer every question posted on my UA-cam channel and acknowledge every comment and I do this with that same aim.
Thank you Peter for this very instructional video it was a huge help. Whilst watching I realised that you never use a table saw and wondered if there was a particular reason? I also follow young Matt and notice he also doesn't seem to use a table saw. Again many thank's for the hours and hours of video enjoyment you bring to me as something of a novice in modern woodworking techniques. I was brought up when hand tools were the way to woodwork but obviously with my situation as a full time wheelchair user with zero lateral balance I find power tools a must to enjoy our favoured interest.
Hi Barry, I too was an apprentice with just hand tools but the new kit has made life so much easier. I believe that you and I have an advantage in that we have been through the hand tool stage. Good luck. Peter
How do you handle the usual snip coming off the planer. Is your planer adjusted that good that there is no snip? I usually take one more step and use a wide belt sander for final dimensioning.
Hi Mike, Snipe is either caused by a badly adjusted planning machine when used for jointing or the operator failing to support wood as it emerges from the thicknesser - it could be both ! It is best to do a UA-cam search for "Planer Snipe" to see how to avoid it - I have not created any videos about it. Peter
I was having a terrible problem with snipe on my DeWalt 735 - I had never leveled the tables, so they were basically useless. I read about a technique of leveling the tables with the planer bed, then ever so slightly elevating the outside ends of the tables - that really helped - and, as Peter said, supporting the wood going in and coming out of the planer...
It may be cheaper to buy rough stock, but how long will it take to brake even with the equipment it takes to mill the timber. A little over £3000 for the equipment is out of the reach of most diyer's. There are a few tricks you can do using just a thicknesser, a sled and wedges plus a track saw to mill timber square.
Hi Stephen, You are right but many DIY people are prepared to buy the kit. Some of them break even by the time they finish making a few things for friends and family. Cheers. Peter
So you charge family and friends, but i digress. Maybe it would be good to show a cheaper way to acheive the same results. Or are you a corporate junkie.
I am not sure where you are going with this but making something can save money and people do it for friends and family. Whether they charge or not is not the point.
Hi Alasdair, Lucky you - do read all the instructions and in particular the safety notes. Forgive me if you have been using planers all your life, I just want people to be safe. Cheers. Peter
Yes. I've a healthy respect for power tools. Ever since an H/S v video at school which made a profound impression on me! Also looking at a band saw later in the year... Can I ask why you went for the BS 11 Inv? I'm, at the moment, inclined towards the SBW3501B because of the slightly greater depth of cut. Was it because of the metal cutting facility? Best wishes, Alasdair. PS all your videos are VERY helpful and constructive - I'm a confirmed Oslo fan, e.g.. Many, many thanks.
Hi Alasdair, I am not sure if Axminster had that bandsaw when I was looking for a new machine. The background is that I had followed the development of the BS11 almost from the tie that Axminster put the original spec together. Each time they received a new prototype to test I seemed to be around at the time. I kept on getting more and more impressed. With my machine I can just turn a knob to change speed which is very useful. I like the idea of the slightly deeper depth of cut with the SBW3501B and I am sure that it is a great machine. Many thanks for your very kind comments. Peter
People won't think a youtube video is boring if you don't use the word. Never ever use that word--the last thing you want people to think is "where do I go to get my 15 minutes back."
Brilliant! Thank you Peter. I have for the first time seen the true value in owning the kit to prepare wood myself. Up to now I just buy in whatever PAR my timber merchant has in. I’m now off to check how much a planer thicknesser will set me back... 😀
Nice overview Peter. I use the same process for milling in my shop but usually allow several days for internal stresses to relax, it is amazing how much some wood can change even after a small amount of milling. When I need to rip several pieces, I usually square two edges at the jointer after surfacing the face which will save trips to the jointer/planer. Steve
Hi Steve, Yes, I think that I mentioned waiting a few days unless that went out on the cutting room floor. You are right, of course, about doing two edges and working inwards. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter - having just acquired an amount of rough sawn quarter sawn oak I thought I'd reacquaint myself with this video before tackling the dimensioning. Very glad I did, not least for the tip on letting the wood rest for a day or so to de-stress before the final dimensioning. Many thanks!
Hi Darrel, There are potentially a lot of stresses in timber before you start working it. As each layer is removed or slice taken away, these stresses cause movement but it can be quite slow. Giving it a day or more to settle down is always a good idea. Cheers. Peter
Very informative video. I appreciate the thoroughness with which you explained the process of preparing lumber. I really like your Jet combo planer/jointer and the fact that it only occupies one footprint.
Hi Mark, Many thanks for the feedback. Cheers. Peter
Definitely not boring, I always learn something watching your videos. Thanks
Hi Glenn, Many thanks. Peter
Thank you for this excellent instructional video - it sums up what took me three or four years to learn through trial and error. Question: I have been told that gloves can be dangerous when operating machinery as they can get hung up on the wood and pull one’s hand into the machine, but you wear them frequently. A different view from the far side of the pond?
Yes, gloves can be awkward and it has to be a personal choice. For me, when handling rough sawn wood, I wish to avoid splinters but I take great care. Modern work gloves fit very well and have a rubberized palms so there is less risk of material catching on the wood. Cheers. Peter
I FOUND THIS VIDEO VERY INFORMATIVE ESPECIALLY HOW YOU GLEANED AS MUCH TIMBER AS YOU COULD OUT OF A VERY TWISTED LONG LENGTH OF TIMBER AND THE CORRECT WAY OF CUTTING IT.I TOO HAVE A JET PLANER BUT MY CUTTER GUARD IS NOT SQUARE TO THE FENCE .IS THERE A WAY OF CORRECTING THIS?
Hi Neill, I am not sure how you would correct the off square cutter guard. Is it sage to use or are the blades exposed ? If you are in any doubt then talk to your dealer or the person that you bought the machine from. Peter
Also curious, I saw you had the Axminster planer thicknesser and the video where Axmister upgraded your planer thicknesser, if you had your choice again would you go with the Axminster one with the spiral cutter block or stay with your Jet with the three knife cutter block? I ask as I'm trying to decide what machine to buy, I'm about done with thicknesser sleds...
If I had the money I would definitely go for a spiral cutter block. Over time the running costs are so much lower. It costs me about £30 to sharpen my planer knives and it only takes one "ding" to force the issue. With the multi facet spiral block cutters it takes a whole lot of dings before there is a problem Peter
Eye and ear protection, check. But keep in mind inhalation of dust when there is enough dust to be a concern. Wood dust in the lungs--not good.
Well said!
No, no - preparation of stock is *not* boring. It's crucial achieving precise end results. Always a joy, watching your videos.
Thank you so much. Peter
wasnt boring... thanks for showing!
Hi Rene, Thank you. Peter
Please don't apologize and think this may have been boring. Believe it or not for me this was very exciting and just what the doctor ordered! Thank you.
Hi Raymond, Many thanks and good luck with all of your woodwork. Cheers. Peter
Peter, great video. It's interesting to see you use a band saw for your rip cuts. Would you say, for the way you work, is it a replacement for a tablesaw?
Hi Adam, Yes. I use the bandsaw for most of my resawing and I can even produce 2 mm thick veneers if needed. I do have a small table saw which is used mainly for ripping thin and narrow stock or for rebating. Peter
Your experience shows when you do an instructional video like this . Btw I took your advice about leaving the ts55 in the cms table and getting the ts 55r for use outside the cms - very good value at the moment , I paid just less than 300 for ts55r in sustainer and z48 blade all new from the blue logo shop with an f. That figure was nett of vat and no guide rails included. You are so good to get back to people with sound woodworking advice. Many thanks
Hi David, That was a very good deal on the saw and now you have the best of both worlds. Cheers. Peter
Probably the most important stage of any woodworking project...... when I first watched this video I thought I couldn’t justify the expense of a planer / jointer.... but in the six months I have owned one I would honestly say that it has payed for itself via the saving buying sawn over PAR timber. Thanks for all your work, it makes me want to be a better craftsman.
Hi Stephen, That is great feedback and excellent advice to anyone out there who is not sure whether to buy one or not. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, many thanks again for yet another great video. I've just restored my old Axminster AW108PT, which was rusting away in storage for 4 years. I can't get the tables co-planar for love nor money, but as you point out, a little downward pressure on the outfeed table seems to get it sufficiently flat as long as the blades are aligned properly with the outfeed table. A slight aside - are you using a 4TPI blade to cut your oak on the bandsaw? Thanks again, Alan.
Hi Alan, Do persevere with the planer to try and get it set up correctly. Would Axminster Tech Support be able to help? Yes, the blade in the bandsaw is the 4 TPI one sold by Axminster under the Axcaliber label. Many thanks for the kind words. Peter
Great video, Peter. I wish I had that Jet machine of yours, I bought a Robland PT machine 18 months ago and, whilst it's extremely competent and accurate, I prefer the way Jet have engineered the jointing surfaces to lift up as one in order to convert to the thicknessing operation. My Robland is the other design where the surfaces swing out individually, meaning the fence has to be removed. This is really annoying if you forget to plane the edge face on 12 boards before thicknessing, like I did yesterday... D'oh!
Hi Matt, I had wanted to buy the Jet machine for a long time and am so pleased to have it now. It really is very useful to be able to change from thicknessing to planing in a matter of a couple of seconds. Most professionals will have separate machines but I cannot justify the cost nor do I have the space. Cheers. Peter
Thanks, Peter, it is not always clear how it *should* be done. I haven't tinkered with much real wood other than pine but if I were to go into hardwoods I would rather go in with the knowledge you've shared here :)
Hi Tony, Many thanks. Good luck. Peter
Thank you so much, Peter for this video. I found it very helpful and far from boring. I need to buy a planer/jointer soon so I won't need to do much research as I shall be aiming for the Jet model similar to the one you have.
Best....
Alan.
Hi Alan, I understand that Axminster have no Jet planer thicknessers on the web site I am not sure if this is a temporary thing or what. If you go for another make or model do look carefully at the ease of changing from planing to thicknessing - it is something that I really like with my Jet machine. Cheers. Peter
Many thanks, Peter. I've just visited the Axminster website and noted there were no Jet planers/thicknessers. It seems odd. I've been buying from Axminster for about 10 years so I must give them a ring.
Many thanks,
Alan.
Thanks Peter, question for you though... Say you need to plane 3m long boards for a 12 seater dinning table, oak, say finished thickness 50mm thick 230/305mm wide boards, how would you tackle that??
The same way but with a little more care. Once the table tope is glued up then some careful hand planning may be necessary and sanding of course. Peter
Hello Peter. Not boring at all! I'm an experienced joiner and always enjoy your productions. This is an excellent, clear and informative introduction to processing sawn timber to anyone starting out or with a general interest in joinery works. Keep up the good work.
Hi John, I really appreciate that especially from a professional like yourself. I used to teach woodwork in my spare time but not the machinery side. Cheers. Peter
Face side, face edge, width, thickness, length
How to do this without a planer. How to find a planer? How to do things when one doesn't already know? Everything is easy if you have a shop.
There are many ways to tackle this without a planer. You can use a hand plane but perfection takes a lot of practice. You can use a jig with a router to flatten one side of a board. You can take the piece to a lumber yard and they will do it for you for a small fee. Finally, you can buy the timber ready planed to the thickness that you require. Peter
Your videos are never boring. Good to see your process for preparing timber.
Hi Simon, Cheers. Peter
Thanks Peter, great video buddy. All my work is done with hand tools, preparation of stock is one of the parts I love the most.
I would use a thickness planer if I had one for the bulk of the work, then Finnish with hand planes
Hi Ken, Many thanks - I do not envy the sole use of hand planes. Cheers. Peter
Ha - I realised I’m using my Screwfix thicknesses plainer too aggressively! Out of interest, why bandsaw not tablesaw for those 41.5mm cuts?
The bandsaw makes light work of ripping and, as long as you have a planer-thicknesser, the results can be cleaned up very quickly. With my Axminster bandsaw I can do some very thin cuts on quite thick stock. Peter
Thanks for doing this video, Peter. Just what I needed to know.
Hi Rob. Excellent. Peter
Nice video. I wish I had a bandsaw, planer and thicknesser. It seems to be enough work as it is. I'm getting by with a tracksaw, router table and hand plane. But it is not really an enjoyable process.
I am surprised you are brave enough to wear gloves in a youtube video with power tools =) I understand completely and feel like the best way to stay safe is to not have an incident in the first place. Being comfortable and getting good grip on the workpiece could very well be the safest way to go.
The risk is splinters which can cause an involuntary recoil action. The gloves have a rubbery coating on the touch surfaces which really does make wood handling much easier. Also, I make the point and demonstrate the use of push sticks and other safety aids. The bottom line is that people make their own choices and are responsible for working out the safest method of working that suits them. Cheers. Peter
The most important machines a person can own for wood working is a thicknesser and surface planer (jointer).
Getting wood square is the most important part of woodworking. Now you can do it by hand if you want to.
Why did you swap your previous AW 106 PT2 planer for the Jet?
I had always wanted the Jet. I bought the AW106 as the next best thing that I could afford. I made a video about it which I told Axminster about once it was up on UA-cam. I had already tried to get the Jet by asking for the best discount that they could provide but that was still beyond my means. After seeing the AW106 video Axminster then allowed me to trade up to the Jet with enough trade discount that made the deal possible for me. Peter
Just realised I state this at the start of the Jet 260 video: ua-cam.com/video/YuTkYUCX3ao/v-deo.html
another great video. thanks for sharing and for being so clear, organized in your presentation.
Hi Robert, You are very kind. Cheers. Peter
Incredibly interesting and helpful. Thanks.
Many thanks. Peter
Hi Peter, I watched this rather late!
What is the thinnest plank you can plane without getting snipe when you pause in passing it over the cutter head?
If this can't be avoided how thin can you pass it through the thicknesser to remove the snipe on the face? Mike
Hi Mike, When passing wood over the cutter in a planing operation it depends on the stiffness of the wood so (I am guessing) about 10 mm for soft wood and 8 mm for hard wood. The removal of snipe requires a flat underside of the wood being thicknessed. It will be minimum thicknessing capability plus about 2 mm. You should not be getting snipe - check your method, not the machine. I have made a jig for thicknessing very thin stock - down to about 2.5 mm which you will see in action in my bookend video. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks Peter. I am working on my technique and assume the snipe on thin material must be caused by downward pressure on the infeed side or, perhaps, having the outfeed table set a little to low. I am going to try to push more forward and less downwards on the infeed side and see if that helps. As the snipe is very short, about 10mm or less, I don't think it will affect the top surface when thicknessing so that this should be flat and act as a true index when the piece is turned over to remove the snipe with a final pass. Using your jig should help here as well.
Thank you Peter. I have recently started dimensioning my own stock and this video has been very enlightening. I can now move forward and make less mistakes.
Hi Andy, I am so glad that this has helped and do not hesitate to seek advice from me in the future. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Many Thanks.
I must say i like the look of that jet planner/thicknesser
Hi Zac, It is the Jet JPT 260 which I bought from Axminster ages ago. It works brilliantly and is very easy to swap from thicknessing to planing. Peter
Thanks, Peter. Enjoyable to watch the process of selection, layout, jointing, cutting (we call it "harvesting" parts in the US). It determines the success of your project, so anything but boring. And I love white oak! Your JET combo machine looks exactly like mine, model JJP-12HH, except that yours has the red (emergency stop?) button. Must be an extra safety requirement of the UK or EU model? For space reasons, and to get a 12 inch jointer, I got rid of my separate planer and jointer. An extra benefit is the much lower noise level with the helical head. Cheers!
Hi Michael, The helical head must be amazing and so much easier to maintain if you have a "ding". Many thanks for the kind words. Peter
Hi Peter. I have the same Jet PT-310 as yours (although I think yours is the 260). I'm having a little trouble, in that the machine judders when I feed stock into the thicknesser. Do you have any idea as to what's causing this? Yours seemed so smooth when you fed in the stock on the video. Also, when I'm planing on the jointer, the machine gets very loud towards the end of the cut, as if it's struggling. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
I am afraid that I have no idea what could be wrong. It sounds as though the motor or the drive mechanism may be struggling. Have you tried reducing the amount that you take off each time? I routinely only take 1 mm off at a time with hardwood boards more than 100 mm wide. If the wood is narrower I might take 1.5 mm off with each pass. Other than that I am unable to help. Maybe if you took the inspection covers off and had a look inside (with the power disconnected) you might see something obvious. Good luck. Peter
Sorry if this has already been asked.. where do you find it best to buy rough sawn timber? I'm from Lancashire myself but any national big name firms that may be near by? Chadwicks for example? Or would you suggest smaller places?
Also is there a general price guide to make sure you're not been taken for a ride if there isn't too much choice?
Thanks in advance
Hi Dan, This is tricky as the only really large company that I know are Timbmet. There is a company in the South that deliver nationwide, Timbersource, but I am not sure if they could match a local supplier for sawn stock. Good luck. Peter
Brilliant Video Peter. The knowledge that you convey is invaluable. It is only outweighed by your humor and well spoken explanation. Thank you.
Hi Ray, That is very kind of you. Cheers. Peter
Hello Peter, absolutely not boring at all. Great joy to see you not using a table saw and getting all your wood pieces precise and ready for further processing & assembly. Like 235 from me.
That is very kind. Many thanks. Peter
Hello,
I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason for it so why when working with the board did you square off one edge only? I can follow the logic of ripping it in half to minimise the cupping at its inherent wastage if you'd been able to plane it in one piece, Given that each piece would yield two pieces with another squaring off process in between, would it have been possible to square of both edges on the planer, pass one edge through the bandsaw to obtain the first piece, then turn it round to get the second piece from the other sruared edge? Or am I missing something?
When preparing timber it is important to have a face side and a face edge which are square to each other. From then on you have a pair of reference surfaces for all future operations. If the opposing edge were squared at the same time there is no guarantee that it will be parallel to the first face edge. You can use the face edge as the reference when ripping in a table saw etc. After that you will have a pair of parallel edges. Peter
I apoligise if I offended you, that was not my intention. My inention was to cause debate and try to change mindset. Hopfully help you reach a wider audience.
I am not offended at all and appreciate where you are coming from. I get about 140,000 views a month and have been invited to Google HQ in the UK on several occasions as my audience retention figures are quite good for this sector. I am doing my best to reach out to as many groups of people that I can. Peter
Paul
I have noticed you seem to prefer using a bandsaw rather than a circular saw bench
is there any particular reason safety maybe
thank you
Hi Paul, The bandsaw can cut much thicker wood and is very safe ad easy to use. It takes up less room than a big table saw and it is cheaper to run. After cutting with the bandsaw I put my wood through the planer which you would probably have to do with a table saw anyway. Peter
Great video and good tips thx for sharing
Hi Martin, Many thanks. Peter
I was always a bit confused with the whole planer/thicknesses/jointer thing, now I understand! Thanks for the info
Excellent. Many thanks. Peter
I'm not knocking you, your videos are great just feel that you could make videos for the common man.
I have made over 250 videos. In the last year only 10 have been about Festool kit. I am trying to help other people, encourage them to make things or buy the best tools that they can afford. I answer every question posted on my UA-cam channel and acknowledge every comment and I do this with that same aim.
Thank you Peter for this very instructional video it was a huge help. Whilst watching I realised that you never use a table saw and wondered if there was a particular reason? I also follow young Matt and notice he also doesn't seem to use a table saw. Again many thank's for the hours and hours of video enjoyment you bring to me as something of a novice in modern woodworking techniques. I was brought up when hand tools were the way to woodwork but obviously with my situation as a full time wheelchair user with zero lateral balance I find power tools a must to enjoy our favoured interest.
Hi Barry, I too was an apprentice with just hand tools but the new kit has made life so much easier. I believe that you and I have an advantage in that we have been through the hand tool stage. Good luck. Peter
How do you handle the usual snip coming off the planer. Is your planer adjusted that good that there is no snip? I usually take one more step and use a wide belt sander for final dimensioning.
Hi Mike, Snipe is either caused by a badly adjusted planning machine when used for jointing or the operator failing to support wood as it emerges from the thicknesser - it could be both ! It is best to do a UA-cam search for "Planer Snipe" to see how to avoid it - I have not created any videos about it. Peter
I was having a terrible problem with snipe on my DeWalt 735 - I had never leveled the tables, so they were basically useless. I read about a technique of leveling the tables with the planer bed, then ever so slightly elevating the outside ends of the tables - that really helped - and, as Peter said, supporting the wood going in and coming out of the planer...
Thanks Peter, great video. What happens with to Axminster?
Not sure what your question means ?? Say again please. Peter
you are using the jet now.
Yes, it is brilliant. Peter
It may be cheaper to buy rough stock, but how long will it take to brake even with the equipment it takes to mill the timber. A little over £3000 for the equipment is out of the reach of most diyer's. There are a few tricks you can do using just a thicknesser, a sled and wedges plus a track saw to mill timber square.
Hi Stephen, You are right but many DIY people are prepared to buy the kit. Some of them break even by the time they finish making a few things for friends and family. Cheers. Peter
So you charge family and friends, but i digress. Maybe it would be good to show a cheaper way to acheive the same results. Or are you a corporate junkie.
I am not sure where you are going with this but making something can save money and people do it for friends and family. Whether they charge or not is not the point.
Hi Peter
Have you looked at Maxcut for providing layouts. Keep up the good videos.
Cheers Geoff
Hi Geoff, I know nothing about Maxcut. Peter
It's free for non-profit making use. Here's a link www.maxcutsoftware.com/
Hi Geoff, Many thanks for that link which I am sure will be looked at closely by many of my viewers. Cheers. Peter
I was excited about some training until I heard Millimeters. Damn you Yanks
Hi Bob, Fear not, millimetres are safe when used correctly and I am not a Yank (as far as I know). Cheers. Peter
Pretty sure yanks use feet and inches.
tnx for all the tips, not boring at all peter !!!!
Hi Matt, Many thanks. Peter
Hi Peter. I've just taken delivery of a planer/thicknesser so this particular video couldn't have been timelier. Many thanks!
Hi Alasdair, Lucky you - do read all the instructions and in particular the safety notes. Forgive me if you have been using planers all your life, I just want people to be safe. Cheers. Peter
Yes. I've a healthy respect for power tools. Ever since an H/S v video at school which made a profound impression on me! Also looking at a band saw later in the year... Can I ask why you went for the BS 11 Inv? I'm, at the moment, inclined towards the SBW3501B because of the slightly greater depth of cut. Was it because of the metal cutting facility? Best wishes, Alasdair. PS all your videos are VERY helpful and constructive - I'm a confirmed Oslo fan, e.g.. Many, many thanks.
Hi Alasdair, I am not sure if Axminster had that bandsaw when I was looking for a new machine. The background is that I had followed the development of the BS11 almost from the tie that Axminster put the original spec together. Each time they received a new prototype to test I seemed to be around at the time. I kept on getting more and more impressed. With my machine I can just turn a knob to change speed which is very useful. I like the idea of the slightly deeper depth of cut with the SBW3501B and I am sure that it is a great machine. Many thanks for your very kind comments. Peter
You're very welcome. Keep the good work and thanks again. Alasdair.
People won't think a youtube video is boring if you don't use the word. Never ever use that word--the last thing you want people to think is "where do I go to get my 15 minutes back."
Hi Michael, I take your point - many thanks. Peter
Thank you for your kind words. I like watching how you use your tools, and noted the gloves you wore. Safety first, last and always.
Brilliant! Thank you Peter. I have for the first time seen the true value in owning the kit to prepare wood myself. Up to now I just buy in whatever PAR my timber merchant has in. I’m now off to check how much a planer thicknesser will set me back... 😀
Hi Nigel, Brilliant. Good luck getting a good machine. Peter
That planer machine sure makes for time saving and quality pieces
Yes, that is true. Peter