5 Reasons Alden Shell Cordovan Annoys Me
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2022
- I prefer Alden boots without the glaze. Here is a before, and after of my pair of ravello Shell Cordovan boots. I removed the glaze that Alden put on the boots using isopropyl alcohol and a combination of brushing and cleaner conditioner from pure polish products to replenish the shell, and give it that more natural luster. Let me know what you think. #aldenarmy #alden #horweenshellcordovan #cordovan
Favorite Links & Resources:
www.purepolishproducts.com
www.horween.com
ashlandleather.com
www.meccarielloshoes.it
shoegazing.com
acmeshoemaker.com
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#shoegazing #horween #horweenshellcordovan #shellcordovan
I always love to hear your thoughts and questions in the comments.
@shellvedge on Instagram
/ shellvedge - Навчання та стиль
I agree with you about simplicity creating more complexity. Having experience with caring for shell cordovan, I bought a pair of Aldens. Cleaning them in the past, they are enigma. They don't react the way shell normally does to conditioners and cream. Now, having watched your video just today, I realize why.
These look ridiculously good on feet in video.
So if I understand your frustration it would really be two key points one the build quality of the shoemaker and two the dye colours offered. Thought you were not happy with the leather itself and yes I know its not true leather but damn great quality in itself. Here in South Africa shell cordovan is truly scarce and pricey. Thanks for the awesome video.
I totally agree, especially on the color variety and the tongue part, which I suffered from recently.
Those are beautiful boots regardless and perhaps because of the imperfections.
I agree with the first part, but they’d definitely be better without the misaligned eyelets and secured tongue. As well as the flushed eyelets lol.
@@Shellvedge I’ve seen the same problem with the misaligned eyelets on my Indy boots and the tongue slipping problems also. White’s boots and Viberg are decent alternative options although they’re typically more in the work boot category.
Thanks for the tips.
My shell color 8 (wanted a rare shell color) Alden Indy boots on the Barrie last has experienced every one of the problems listed except for the misalignment. It's a shame because Carmina gives me exactly what I want, with outstanding quality (just bad customer service lol).
great video. do you remove the laquer from the regular leather on Aldens? My standard brown color indy boots seem to have a thick coating on the leather.
alignment really matters. Mine V tip was not accurately aligned to the stitch which made me feel awful
Completely agree with their limitations for shell cordovan colors. Idk why I should have a have a buy history with a store in order to have a chance of being selected for a pick of Ravello shell shoes. Like I have enough burgundy shell, not interested in black shell. Definitely put me off and had me look at other brands like Carmina that have it readily available during their MTOs.
Yeah perfect practical flaw with the system
man great video and i agree with you ESPECIALLY on the eyelet facings being uneven, it's not just on shell but on some of my other pairs as well. like you said, if they can consistently get it wrong, it wouldn't take much for them to consistently get it right!!!!!!
Thanks dale! Yeah it can be head shaking at times the way some of these larger heritage brands run their shop, but it is what it is I guess
Dude. I've watched your clips.for the past couple years now. My eyes are sharp and pined pointed on details. I love your passion to well made footwear.
I just got my first pair of Alden captoe boots. 4065 Grant Last I believe.
And I've waited for three years to finally get some She'll cordovan shoes. I got the for my wedding... "In black".. only thing I'd they came very dark Green... I don't know why... also they're the bookmakers addition.
Why did the shoe mart.send those to me lol. Honestly though they're so unique. I'm gunna keep them. I can't wait to take off thee alden finish...
Awesome! Thanks so much for the comment and sharing Mark! Black shell cordovan does have a greenish tint to it for reasons that escape me right now. But in a normal light scenario, they should be black. Under bright light or direct sunlight, it may be greenish hues. But you could always reach out to TSM and ask if you think it’s abnormally green!
@Shellvedge thanks for replying ! Will do... ..
And I appreciate all the educational videos !!! Thanks alot!!
Agree the #1, I took mine to a cobbler to stitch it to the upper
Are there any bootmakers you would recommend over Alden? Both for cordovan and non cordovan? I’ve been looking at Winson/Midas Bootmaker recently, they look like good value.
Hi there, first time watcher. Quick question: why do you remove the acrylic coating? Isn't there to water-proof the Cordovan? I thought untreated Cordovan was fairly prone to staining otherwise.
agree with your 2nd reasons, while other brands like Crookett and Jones have brown shell that can be bought right in store, but Alden didn't or couldn't. I came to most stores while travelling and they simply dont have those or only being offered to after 9-12 months which made me feel like I was coming to the Rolex store but you can't buy the sport models you must be in a waitlist with no time guarantee unless you're lucky or at least have purchased before.
Yes! This is a great real life example although not a great example of a client experience. I always find it suspect when the Alden fans try to claim these aren’t real experiences or real concerns. That’s fine for them, but the lack of awareness by Alden or maybe the more unfortunate option of the intentional choice to handle their distribution as such, is a problematic approach IMHO
Interesting thoughts! On the misalignments, would believe it's due to the lasting and not doing that 100% right, especially if the issues vary between pairs. Quite common for machine lasted and some have bigger problems with it than others for various reasons.
It doesn’t feel like a lasting issue. It feels and looks like the lacing quarter was started about 1 mm high, and the eyelet was punched 2mm low, causing the bottom to slant, which corrects itself halfway up the ankle. It’s hard to describe. But I’ve felt a crooked lasted upper, and it doesn’t feel like that
A more indepth question I hope to catch your attention and opinion. Noticed non-Horween cordovan behaves differently? I am used to the cordovan from AE and Alden, both color 8 from Horween, and also vintage cordovan from English and American shoe brands, they more or less behaves the same, with the vintage drier of course, within reasons. But recently I gotten a part of shells made by a lesser known Spanish shoe brand, and those are definitely not Horweens. It doesn't feel as smooth, the texture is closer to calf vs patent if you know what I mean. While they don't crease, they do not exhibit as much self regenerative properties as Horweens. And they also don't shine as much after brushing. I normally use Venetian SC sparely on occasion, but with this I need to break out the Renovatuer so that it gloss a bit more. Could it be due to less-smooth texture? Even my vintage English cordovan shoes shines much more after just dry brushing. You know with a good pair of AEs after a brush (no wax no cream, just dry brush) the shoes actually feels a little bit sticky/tacky with the oils agitated at the surface, I have a pair that literally looks like heated wax bar after brushing... but these Spaniard made shell shoes dont! Are some of these cordovan properties... actually Horween only properties? Will be interested to hear experience from people who own shell cordovans from Italian or Japanese tanneries.
Yeah, Japanese shell is fair, but it’s not horween. Shell from Italy and Argentina, I’d definitely pass on if you’re expecting shell to behave like horween. You have to remember horween has done shell tannage for over a century. These tanneries in Italy and others are much less. And it’s not an easy thing to do. It’s still shell, but it’s just not the same.
While I can’t say who. I can say I’ve talked to many classic shoemakers, well known names, and they all have said the same. It doesn’t mean Italian or Japanese shell is bad, but it’s just not the same performance as horween
@@Shellvedge thank you sir! Much appreciated. Guess just have to manage expectations when buying non horween shells.
So many companies make 20 pairs of different Shell colors.
I just found this video and GREAT JOB.
I was an avid shoe collector and you raise great questions about the availability of various shell cordovan colors.
Here’s the deal: shells that aren’t colored very darkly can end up looking very “cloudy.” I’ve seen these and I think they’re gorgeous in their individuality, but I “get” why they want uniformity, hence the prevalence of color 8 and black.
Ravello and whisky can and WILL look “cloudy” if they’re not flawless.
This still doesn’t address why there aren’t more cigars out there, though
Thanks! It all boils down to what the shoemakers order and Alden in particular primarily orders color 8 and black. CJ is the best example but there are many that offer “whisky” (now bourbon or natural labeled whisky by the shoemaker) and the full color spectrum consistently. It’s somewhat artificially generated as “rare”. If they just ordered all the colors, they’d have them all as regularly as color 8 and black.
I hear you 100% and I haven’t figured this part out yet (plus my direct experience is dated by about a decade), but C&J and Carmina and even EG shell shoes are nowhere NEAR as lustrous or impressive as the Aldens. Not talking about shoe style or lasts or anything like that.
I’ve heard but don’t know for sure, but the word is that Alden has a special “glazing” procedure but that’s shouldn’t impact the availability of lighter shades of shell.
So I’m basically agreeing with you, I think! Lol.
Those other brands shells in lighter shades (and darker) don’t look the same as alden though, in my experience.
@@therock5422 yea Alden paints their own plastic glaze on their shells after they make the boots. The context shared above is directly from a few folks who worked at horween and now work with horween.
Wait, are you a Seattle local? I was just at Brick + Mortar a few days ago!
What last are those brown split toes on? They look pretty sleek.
Barrie
great video!
Bertie! Ty!
I agree with your last point. I just purchased a pair of Alden black cordovan "Indy" Boots and I already notice the tongue on the left boot sliding off to the side, even before breaking them in. They should do a better job of stitching it in place (my Viberg tongue stays in straighter).
I think your other points are fairly minor and get outweighed by all the other quality points of Alden.
About the restricted colors, I don't know. Maybe they are trying to create some artificial scarcity, or they are truly looking to work with only higher quality cordovan than some other brands.
There is only 1 quality of cordovan, so you can’t buy grade a or b, it’s either it’s acceptable shell or it’s not. If you ever hear grades of shell, it’s referring to the size of the circumference of the shell, not the quality
Good video. What kind of laces are those? Thanks!
For realz..sweet laces are hard to come by...
What really annoy me is when looking intentionally on my Shell cordovan shoes when they're catching the light. there're so many thin small scratching lines from horsehair brush. Im quiet sure my brush is soft enough which I also use it with other calf leather shoes. Do you think that is normal?
shoes are meant to be wearing, brushing and taking care. but with the price I paid for them I cant get my mind off that I also have ruined them. So sad.
I don’t think you ruined them. Some brushes aren’t as nice as others. But a simple conditioning or water brushing will take care of it.
I'm pretty sure it's just residue from your brush. Are the scratches changing direction when you brush over them? If you rub over them with your finger and they're still there, you can apply a thin layer of polish to fill in those scratches. It should go back to shiny, cordovan hides scratches really well.
I was going to buy Aldens however have seen multiple reports of reducing quality over the years...
Yeah I mean I’d encourage you to continue to look into it. Not to say that your conclusion is right or wrong, I think it is accurate but if that’s the aesthetic and specific style or brand you’re aspiring to own, then it may still be the right choice for you. In reality the boots are still great for what they are. It’s just a matter of being aware of what they are and what to expect
Thank you for speaking out. Alden shoes are so expensive and they don't give the buyers the quality of what they paid for, very annoying. Even the quality of their leather sole is of poor quality. 6:17
It all depends what the subjective value is. But yes, if taking an objective view to find the best possible shoe for the money, Alden is not it.
Wow. For the price point Alden asks...and not full leather heel stacks? Yeah...that just sounds...well....greedy. "Hey Alden! If you can see this, (or hear it), that is just....GREEDY!"
With Alden , it's a hit or miss. I now only buy Crocket and Jones and Viberg, the QC is just impeccable and worth every penny. The only Alden I now own is my Indy 403 in Chromexel which I love.
Every Alden I own is either Color 8 or Black...I hate looking at the lack of variety.
Alden would provide more colors in shell if Horween could produce it! The percentage of lighter color shells Horween makes is much smaller than Color 8 and black. These darker colors hide imperfections in the Shell. The demand for Alden Shell is much greater than most other manufacturers. So the supply is given out when it becomes available!
It’s not really 100% cause and effect there. It is true that dark shells are able to be produced on a wider range of shells because visual blemishes are covered, but Alden is one of the largest consumers of horween. Horween supplies CJ, Carmina, Allen Edmonds, Edward Green, Viberg, and countless others with the full range of colors as requested. There’s no reason why Alden couldn’t make these colors part of their off the shelf offering, sure the supply of these quantities would be the same as they are today, but it wouldn’t be a back room, gotta spend $10k on shoes you don’t want just to get the 1 pair you DO WANT kind of situation. It rewards those who already have the connections while providing barriers and barriers on top of barriers to entry for new customers. It’s not an argument of availability, I’d expect the quantity to remain the same, but make the purchasing process more out in the open vs a hush hush guarded rule. I mean they forbid US retailers from selling overseas, completely understand, but within 5 minutes of a simple instagram scroll you can find 50 pairs that came from a domestic retailer and were purchased by an international customer. It’s secrecy for the sake of trying to have a strangle hold on control, yet it actually has the opposite effect on the market.
Rant time: I mean Alden has ruined more batches of what they call rare shell then anyone would care to know. Anything from splattered color 8 acrylic on whiskey shell, to brass speed hooks being discolored from darker acrylic on whiskey shells, causing the entire batch to be deemed undeliverable. This isn’t a horween issue, this is how Alden chooses to handle their production and Market share, and how they choose to prioritize the importance or lack thereof on executing the details.
@@Shellvedge artificial scarcity to elevate perceived value
@@Shellvedge EXACTLY 💯
@@jtee5957 no Alden propaganda allowed on here! Lol jk.
@@KeenanModica 💪🏻
I can't really disagree here, but as a eee who wants an American-made shoe/boot: it's Alden or Allen Edmonds (even with their flaws). (Aside from buying-up vintage Florsheims and Hanovers, that is...)
Yeah for sure. And that’s great! Just because there are pain points or annoyances. And just because there are “better options” out there, doesn’t mean they are better for everyone. It all depends what is of importance to each of us.
Nothing drives me more insane than the tongue sliding over. My horse rump oak street boots do it bad
Yeah it’s terribly annoying
And "CamelToe" is clearly not centered. Right Boot is little to the left---on right Boot is also to the left.
Why do you continue to buy Alden?
Why not? If you want the Alden aesthetic, Alden does it better than any of the competitors. CJ is an objectively better boot but they’re a bit more refined and elegant. Carmina is better, but are more dress than the Alden no mans land between dress and casual.
Essentially, if you want the aesthetic of a particular alden style, Alden is the best option to go with. Ravello is a fantastic shade of brown. And no shoe or boot is perfect so as much as they drive me crazy I enjoy them.
Imagine not buying Color 8 shell from Alden.
Some don’t! As long as you’re in the Alden 1% 🤣
Go grant stone .
I've really liked the channel but honestly man I'm Alden simp lol...
That Alden propaganda is dangerous!
Tongue licking your ankles. I have sewn the tongue myself.
And...the unalighnment? Wow. Well...now I have decided not to consider an Alden product. Why pay the price point, they ask...when I can just purchase an English made product. Crockett and Jones seems a better deal than Alden.
It’s a tough call since Alden kind of has the market cornered if you want the Alden look and silhouette. But CJ Is a good option as well.
Hater!
🤣. Which part
@@Shellvedgejk jk. Just messin with you. I would be frustrated at the quality. Luckily I don’t buy Alden. There’s way better English boots
@@jackeddemon most factory made shoes have compromises in one aspect or another.
Who cares what you think. Don’t ruin a good brand because of how feel. State the facts !
Well a few things, I’d say these are all facts, and my experience with said facts. Additionally, it appears you are at a minimum at least curious about my opinion otherwise you wouldn’t have watched the video 😅.
And if you only watched a few seconds of it, I’d suggest consuming the entire thing as your outrage may be unfounded.
My final rebuttal, if the truth about how a consumer feels about a brands user experience is going to ruin said brand, the brand must already be on shaky ground. Clearly not the case with Alden.
Is it a bad thing to have real user experiences available for potential consumers to educate themselves about the good and the bad of a $1,000 purchase? 🤷🏻♂️
He is stating facts
@@b809wkb appreciate it. Sometimes people don’t see them as facts when they challenge what they want to believe.
@@Shellvedge yes you’re right. I was trying to buy one and saw you discrediting them with the facts. And I thought, you were a hatter!