from wat i heared aluminium car rims have the best aluminium for casting , do need to break it intoo pretty small pieces for the size cruisible youre using those round billet pieces do look nice , wonder if you can melt the aluminium straight in that stainless pipe just leave the dross in as it floats to the top anyway and machine that off after its cooled off and pushed out of the pipe , saves you from handling hot metal outside the furnace might be an idea to make a billet mould with a flange and flange lid on the bottom , that way you can unbolt the lid and set the mould upside down in a hydraulic press using the flange to hold it and push the core out the top of the mould
Appreciate when videos show warts and success. All part of learning. Gives me hope that my failures are just part of process. I have a lathe and think it would be pretty cool to have some big chunks of aluminum. No foundry yet. Keep em coming.
Just gotta keep on failing til you don't anymore! I think my failures teach me more than any research haha As far as getting those big chunks of aluminum for the lathe, I would not recommend using cans. I edited most of it, but I had to scrape TONS of dross off the top. Next time I do it, I'll try to find some cast aluminum parts at the scrap yard.
I made a lathe and just started a foundry to make machinable aluminium. A lot of failures but also a lot of fun. My wife keeps the distance and ocationally ask me about burns or cuts :-D
@@cranktowncity cans are a waste of time, indeed. The computer hard drives are made of a very good aluminium. I melted some and they had little to no dross at all.
One workaround would be to print the mold in a single shell without infill. Of course not all shape would be printable this way but it worked for me. I painted few coat of plaster onto the PLA print and buried it in sand to save on plaster, dry time and no burnout required. I like your video and just learned about your channel today with the hackaday article. Great job!
Ive seen with lost PLA that is firstly use a ceramic coating dip with wire to strengthen the mould (can crack under thermal laod) and it's better to melt out most of the PLA at a lower temp before a final burn out, so you avoid all the soot forming and maybe encasing bits that never properly burn out. Also with your runners and risers, need to make sure gasses have proper escape holes as everything rises,
When making your mold use a piece of wire and make small vent holes through out the mold to allow air to escape great video hope you do more on casting
Dude, I recently subbed. Love the builds! I'm bummed youtube doesn't promote your videos more! Fune stuff. Pretty sure we would be best friends of we lived near each other!
They said it has something to do with the riser and runner when casting problems like bubbles or incomplete fill. you may wanna try adding some art works on the sand before pouring in.😅 nice video man. thank you!
Here's one n a half workarounds. 3D print the negative space of the thing you want to cast in two halves obviously, then cast it with wax, then use the wax to make a plaster or sand casting. The longer way would be to 3D print the part, cast it into silicon, cut it open enough to get your part out and cast with wax.
Greensand casting issues might have been too much moisture in sand? It turns to steam which needs somewhere to go. Poking a wire through the sand to almost touch the pattern can help.
I thought that your pouring temperatures may have been a bit too low and your runners and risers needed possibly to be a bit fatter. The pour and the flow of metal into the mould causes the metal to cool so the pour has to be fast, smooth and regular. Part of the problem may also be the use of the metal crucible because it is a good heat conductor and its temperature starts to fall as soon as you get the crucible out of the furnace. Ceramic would work better I think. Getting the PLA out of the mould is better done in a domestic oven (that may not be very popular with the cook). I would take it out of the oven fairly quickly to start the pour so that it does not cool. Plaster absorbs water from the atmosphere so it is best not left around for long cooling down.
you should have had the design on the bottom for the sand casting. Air rises so any trapped air will be at the top of the mold. You can make casting sand out of play sand and oil.
If you have access to a junkyard, get some old aluminum heads and intakes. if you cook them on a bonfire before whacking them with a hammer, they will easily break apart.
God man, I don't even know who to admire more?! You - a crazy genius or your beautiful girlfriend who is not afraid to rummage through the trash! It's a brain explosion! You are beautiful!)) Subscribing to your channel is the least I can do!) P/S where can I find such a cool girl?))) Sorry, I'm writing this through a translator, maybe not everything translates correctly into your language)
from wat i heared aluminium car rims have the best aluminium for casting , do need to break it intoo pretty small pieces for the size cruisible youre using
those round billet pieces do look nice , wonder if you can melt the aluminium straight in that stainless pipe just leave the dross in as it floats to the top anyway and machine that off after its cooled off and pushed out of the pipe , saves you from handling hot metal outside the furnace
might be an idea to make a billet mould with a flange and flange lid on the bottom , that way you can unbolt the lid and set the mould upside down in a hydraulic press using the flange to hold it and push the core out the top of the mould
Appreciate when videos show warts and success. All part of learning. Gives me hope that my failures are just part of process. I have a lathe and think it would be pretty cool to have some big chunks of aluminum. No foundry yet. Keep em coming.
Just gotta keep on failing til you don't anymore! I think my failures teach me more than any research haha
As far as getting those big chunks of aluminum for the lathe, I would not recommend using cans. I edited most of it, but I had to scrape TONS of dross off the top. Next time I do it, I'll try to find some cast aluminum parts at the scrap yard.
I made a lathe and just started a foundry to make machinable aluminium. A lot of failures but also a lot of fun. My wife keeps the distance and ocationally ask me about burns or cuts :-D
@@cranktowncity cans are a waste of time, indeed. The computer hard drives are made of a very good aluminium. I melted some and they had little to no dross at all.
@@Danbatio Good to know! I'll keep an eye out for em!
One workaround would be to print the mold in a single shell without infill. Of course not all shape would be printable this way but it worked for me. I painted few coat of plaster onto the PLA print and buried it in sand to save on plaster, dry time and no burnout required. I like your video and just learned about your channel today with the hackaday article. Great job!
Smart! I'll have to try that one my next run-through!
Thanks for the support!
Ive seen with lost PLA that is firstly use a ceramic coating dip with wire to strengthen the mould (can crack under thermal laod) and it's better to melt out most of the PLA at a lower temp before a final burn out, so you avoid all the soot forming and maybe encasing bits that never properly burn out.
Also with your runners and risers, need to make sure gasses have proper escape holes as everything rises,
When making your mold use a piece of wire and make small vent holes through out the mold to allow air to escape great video hope you do more on casting
5:50 Nice of you to be a gentelman and let the lady first !
Very good .
You can sinter 3d prints with that furnace using metalized filament
Dude, I recently subbed. Love the builds! I'm bummed youtube doesn't promote your videos more! Fune stuff. Pretty sure we would be best friends of we lived near each other!
They said it has something to do with the riser and runner when casting problems like bubbles or incomplete fill.
you may wanna try adding some art works on the sand before pouring in.😅 nice video man. thank you!
Here's one n a half workarounds. 3D print the negative space of the thing you want to cast in two halves obviously, then cast it with wax, then use the wax to make a plaster or sand casting. The longer way would be to 3D print the part, cast it into silicon, cut it open enough to get your part out and cast with wax.
I love this!!! Thanks
Greensand casting issues might have been too much moisture in sand? It turns to steam which needs somewhere to go. Poking a wire through the sand to almost touch the pattern can help.
I thought that your pouring temperatures may have been a bit too low and your runners and risers needed possibly to be a bit fatter. The pour and the flow of metal into the mould causes the metal to cool so the pour has to be fast, smooth and regular. Part of the problem may also be the use of the metal crucible because it is a good heat conductor and its temperature starts to fall as soon as you get the crucible out of the furnace. Ceramic would work better I think. Getting the PLA out of the mould is better done in a domestic oven (that may not be very popular with the cook). I would take it out of the oven fairly quickly to start the pour so that it does not cool. Plaster absorbs water from the atmosphere so it is best not left around for long cooling down.
you should have had the design on the bottom for the sand casting. Air rises so any trapped air will be at the top of the mold. You can make casting sand out of play sand and oil.
This channel is epic.
I watch a bloke here in Aus and his youtube channel is bigstackD. Might get a few more ideas. Love the videos mate great stuff
Sodium silicate cheap n easy to make mix with sand
If you have access to a junkyard, get some old aluminum heads and intakes. if you cook them on a bonfire before whacking them with a hammer, they will easily break apart.
Best channel I've found in a while. Wish my woman would dumpster dive for me.
nice run thru
God man, I don't even know who to admire more?! You - a crazy genius or your beautiful girlfriend who is not afraid to rummage through the trash! It's a brain explosion! You are beautiful!)) Subscribing to your channel is the least I can do!)
P/S where can I find such a cool girl?)))
Sorry, I'm writing this through a translator, maybe
not everything translates correctly into your language)
The vegoil guy has some good tutorial vids for lost pla. Excellent effort on your part though..
a great method for getting amazing casts is by building up a layer of ceramic coating then it out
Dude. We are the same. But you are making videos. How do we join forces?
I hear the liner inside a soda can makes some pretty toxic smoke. Just a heads up. Nice work though, solid tries.
looks like your math is a bit off on the clay. Closer to 30% clay. I think that might be your problem there. Great vid though. cheers
cans suck..buts its hillarious how casters end up turning into dumpster divers