Just found this channel tonight! Good to see you again! I really enjoyed James Doolin and the Mob! And, as I am a motor enthusiast, I'll be viewing all your vids.
i did this job on my TR6 recently. The hood was aligned nicely without the catch installed. as soon as I mounted the catch, the hood would touch the left side scuttle. In the end, i determined that the mounting holes in the catch (hood part) needed to be elongated to provide more adjustment on positioning the catch.
I found that if I took the hood latch off completely, and the fan shroud is not installed around the radiator, the bonnet would lift when driving on the highway. I decided to take a new cardboard fan shroud and knock it apart, tracing the outline onto 20 Ga (or equal) aluminum and fabricated a new shroud which looks better and doesn't deteriorate when you wash your engine. I left the hood latch off and use the gap on the right side of the bonnet by the windscreen to lift the hood with my bare fingers. There is no rattle without the hood latch and no possibility of the opener not working. I did this years ago and am happy with the result. I am a tinsmith but this is pretty basic sheet metal stuff.
Great musical introduction on the video. Is that you on the sax James? It's great to have a local person that has so much knowledge of these cars. Always learn something. Keep them coming Thank you.
Very clear and well engineered expaination. May I suggest whilst the Hood Catch was being off and being adjusted it would have been a good idea to fit a secondary hood release.
Yes, sometimes I do just that. Depends on the Customer, if the cable is in good condition and secured well the catches don't give much trouble. But a plan 'B" never hurts. James
Very informative and a enjoyable video . Hope you don't mind me asking , but where is your accent from in the UK ? Sure l can hear a trace of Lancashire there !
I had a 1600 Spit once....you have to be careful with those hood latches too. If you have them too tight with the bump stops you can crack the hood at the top of the latch. They are weak there for some reason....both of mine were cracked and I had to do a little cosmetic welding
@@johncopeland2620 Some folks are fans of the TR6 but the build quality, parts availability is way better for the MGBs. The evil rust is far less an issue than Triumph cars. My next project is to drop a fuel injected V6 with a 5 speed transmission into a 71 MGB. I do have a 68 MGC GT that I have just started a ground up restoration. This should be a fun car once completed.
Hi, sorry I can't remember which customers car I was repairing. As I have done quite a lot of TR's and it was a while ago. Can't figure from my customer list either as I don't list the car colours. Can't even remember if it's the original paint. To go though past invoices is not really practical as the video's are not always posted same time as they are shot, due to editing time etc. Not a lot of help really. The colour will look different on different screens as well. I'm afraid this is not a lot of help. James
Hey Doc....what is your opinion on a emergency release secondary latch pull if the cable breaks on the main hood release? As you said if that happen you might be drilling holes to open the hood. Like the videos very informative
Hi, You can get a mechanical release catch and fit it in case the cable breaks, but you have to drill holes in the car to fit it. If you can keep the original cable working and in good condition you don't need to drill holes at all. Include it as part of the yearly check over.
@@Dr-Doolincom It's a British car, fenders are wings, hoods are bonnets. Your video is not exclusively shown in the vile USA. Petrol is NOT a gas either it's a liquid.
great idea and nice workshop......i adore the TR6 there is just something about it which speaks 70,s :)
Thanks very informative I need to find a guy like you that knows what the hell he’s on these TR’s
Just found this channel tonight! Good to see you again!
I really enjoyed James Doolin and the Mob!
And, as I am a motor enthusiast, I'll be viewing all your vids.
Yes, that was a fun band, unfortunately no girls on this gig.
i did this job on my TR6 recently. The hood was aligned nicely without the catch installed. as soon as I mounted the catch, the hood would touch the left side scuttle. In the end, i determined that the mounting holes in the catch (hood part) needed to be elongated to provide more adjustment on positioning the catch.
I found that if I took the hood latch off completely, and the fan shroud is not installed around the radiator, the bonnet would lift when driving on the highway. I decided to take a new cardboard fan shroud and knock it apart, tracing the outline onto 20 Ga (or equal) aluminum and fabricated a new shroud which looks better and doesn't deteriorate when you wash your engine. I left the hood latch off and use the gap on the right side of the bonnet by the windscreen to lift the hood with my bare fingers. There is no rattle without the hood latch and no possibility of the opener not working. I did this years ago and am happy with the result. I am a tinsmith but this is pretty basic sheet metal stuff.
Great musical introduction on the video. Is that you on the sax James? It's great to have a local person that has so much knowledge of these cars. Always learn something. Keep them coming Thank you.
Very clear and well engineered expaination. May I suggest whilst the Hood Catch was being off and being adjusted it would have been a good idea to fit a secondary hood release.
Yes, sometimes I do just that. Depends on the Customer, if the cable is in good condition and secured well the catches don't give much trouble. But a plan 'B" never hurts.
James
Great to watch.
Lovely, Doctor!
Very informative and a enjoyable video .
Hope you don't mind me asking , but where is your accent from in the UK ?
Sure l can hear a trace of Lancashire there !
looking at the thing I realized why i liked my Spitfire so much. Was a whole lot easier to work on.
I had a 1600 Spit once....you have to be careful with those hood latches too. If you have them too tight with the bump stops you can crack the hood at the top of the latch. They are weak there for some reason....both of mine were cracked and I had to do a little cosmetic welding
Great video and information on TR6s. It reinforces the reason I stick to MGBs. LOL
@@johncopeland2620 Some folks are fans of the TR6 but the build quality, parts availability is way better for the MGBs. The evil rust is far less an issue than Triumph cars. My next project is to drop a fuel injected V6 with a 5 speed transmission into a 71 MGB. I do have a 68 MGC GT that I have just started a ground up restoration. This should be a fun car once completed.
Hello, if I may ask, what color paint is the TR6?
Hi, sorry I can't remember which customers car I was repairing. As I have done quite a lot of TR's and it was a while ago. Can't figure from my customer list either as I don't list the car colours. Can't even remember if it's the original paint. To go though past invoices is not really practical as the video's are not always posted same time as they are shot, due to editing time etc. Not a lot of help really. The colour will look different on different screens as well. I'm afraid this is not a lot of help.
James
No worries. Thanks anyway!
Hey Doc....what is your opinion on a emergency release secondary latch pull if the cable breaks on the main hood release? As you said if that happen you might be drilling holes to open the hood. Like the videos very informative
Hi,
You can get a mechanical release catch and fit it in case the cable breaks, but you have to drill holes in the car to fit it. If you can keep the original cable working and in good condition you don't need to drill holes at all. Include it as part of the yearly check over.
It's called a bonnet not a hood.
not when you live in north America
@@Dr-Doolincom It's a British car, fenders are wings, hoods are bonnets. Your video is not exclusively shown in the vile USA.
Petrol is NOT a gas either it's a liquid.